i use to have an XDA before and still have the serial cable, will i be able to use this with the XDA 2 or are the leads ment to be different.
from the roadangel to the XDA 2 i am planning to use the serial cable. with a gender changer.
the roadangel will output data both at 9600bps, 4800bps, any idea which i should select?
thanx!
Holux produce a cable which powers the Road Angel and XDA2 from a single power source, it also connects the RA to the XDA for sending GPS data.
It costs about £25, I use it with Tomtom and it works a treat.
Good luck
The serial cable should work ok with xda1 and xda2.
Oops, sorry missed a bit from my earlier post. Even though the serial cable works with the xda1 and xda2 for connecting to a PC, it doesn't work connecting to the Road Angel on it's own. Not only do you need a gender changer, you also need a null modem cable as well - when it's all connected together you end up with a mesh of cables on your dashboard which just looks a mess and if you are really lucky it might even work.
I must confess I tried all the various cable combinations as described above and didn't end up with any joy, I then contacted Holux - their cable worked straight out of the box. The one thing I would recommend if you decided to go with the Holux solution is to specify the cable lengths to them when ordering as different lengths are required for different cars, I was lucky as the default length worked OK for me but I’m sure this won’t be the same for everyone.
Just for information – I believe Holux actually manufacture the GPS within the Road Angel, hence this is why they produce the cable.
As before – Good Luck
excellent m8 have you got any source for Holux or is it a guy / wesbite / company?
and the model of the lead will do pls
you have been a great help m8!
YOU ARE THE DON, thanx m8, ive found it!
Hi there
Part of my job envolves monitoring data from various sensors, this involves booting my laptop, pluging it in, cause the battery fecked, hookin to the sensor, 3 seconds to check the data then pack it all away again.
I think I`ve found a Hyperterminal for ppc called vxhpc, looks like it has the right functions.
I have opened a plug that I have that connects to the bottom plug, and I can see 22 pins, but I dont know which one does what.
I`m after com1 wiring I think, it will mostly be RS232 signals that I`m monitoring.
The options in the software are:
Serial cable on com1
CAM1
IR Port
Com2 Serial on usb
there are a few more.
I assume serial on com1 is the obvious choice, but you guys and gals will know better than me.
So the pin outs of the bottom connector, and if anyone knows of a better software, that would be fanastic.
The telnet part, I also have some telnet software called Mini Telnet, Many of the systems I work on control ship engines and thruster, If i could connect to the engine managment system network via the XDA2S, I could, In theory, control the ships movement, and monitor the system aswell.
Unfortunatly, due to saftey reasons, all networks on ships are hardwired.
Is it possible to connect from the bottom plug to a network hub ?????
If so, do you know how ?
Thanks for all your help
All the best
Nikki
just noticed, the Wallaby and Himalaya have the same wiring, does this mean, chances are the blue angel is the same again ? maybe ??
okay, i have been investigating a wee bit, my findings so far, this is about the telnet side of things, if I`mwrong anywhere, please correct me.
Taken from the wiki site
5 ANALOG GND
6 RS232_DCD
7 RS232_CTS
8 RS232_TXD
9 RS232_RTS
10 RS232_RXD
11 RS232_DTR
So, RJ-45 to DB9 pc comport
rj 45 side -------------------XDA2s Side
1 DCD------------------------6 DCD
2 DSR------------------------?? DSR, i dont see this one on the list, is it important ?
3 DTR-------------------------11 DTR
4 SigGnd----------------------5 SigGnd, Plenty of these
5 TXD-------------------------10 RXD ???
6 RXD-------------------------8 TXD???do i have these the right way around ?
7 CTS-------------------------7 CTS
8 RTS-------------------------9 RTS
So, does this look about right ? and how important is the DSR signal, I`m unsure of it puropse.
Like I said, if you see anything wrong, at all, please post
cheers
nikki
If using com 1 make sure you have beams switched off in settings/connections, also disable any external keyboard driver if present as this too will take com 1.
Hi all, after months of try&error and buying 2 (TWO!) MDAs (Wizard & Charmer) i finally found out WHY sometimes GPRS data flow stops and no incoming calls will be put throught (they land on mailbox):
It's the docking stations! Just let me explain that a little bit more: Both Wizard & Charmer will be delivered without any docking stations, so I bought two different on Ebay + one active holder from Brodit for my car.
After I put Wizard or Charmer in one of the docking station it's necessary to call 2 or 3 times until the call gets through, also in the car (Brodit), and - GPRS data flow, that means even I'm connected (2 GPRS arrows are there), stops after 2 or 3 minutes. I see that with a network monitor called Phatnet (very recommended!)
So now comes the real scurillic thing: If I use the original AC adapter from T-Mobile nothing of the above happens... GPRS data packets flow hours and hours without any breaks, and calls come through.
The docking station definitly loads the devices, but it takes longer. So here's my conclusion: The AC Adapters and the car adapter give to little current for the radio part in the devices - sounds strange, but I have no other ideas.
So now what? Try yourself please, anyone who owns Wizard or Charmer and some other AC adapters than the originals should tell here - it's easy, just put the devices in, surf a little bit for just a couple of minutes and you'll see surfing stops. It's not dependend of the loading status (orange or green led).
I tried different Rom updates, different devices and now it seems that power is the reason, really annoying. Tell us your experience!
Yours B.
Here are the links of the 2 docking stations:
http://cgi.ebay.de/Dockingstation-f...861020033QQcategoryZ15396QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.de/Dockingstation-f...ryZ70769QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Must be a Charmer/Wizard flaw as my Magician doesn't act at all like this.
What I really don't understand is how you can even make a phonecall or use gprs when there's no original AC-adapter connected to your device, when a car charger doesn't give you enough current to have the radio operating as it should be. So your devices must be pretty crap then lol.
I think the cradle's are somehow interfering with the radio. The current can't be the main issue, otherwise the device wouldn't be functioning on a battery only. Guess it comes in a strange state, I noticed that my magician doesn't hold a gprs connection while Act.Sync is running, maybe this is something simular.
But it sure must be a pain in the rear bottom I agree to that.
M
Well there's some additional information I researched:
When connecting the device to the original AC adaptor it does NOT switch on the display, when connecting to the cradle it does. So the pinout of the connector must be different and Wizard/Charmer maybe (half way) believes that it has been connected to USB of a PC, but not in a defined state. Remember that my docking station IS NOT connected to a PC, it's only there for power.
Somebody maybe knows the pinout of the delivered USB sync cable and the AC adaptor?
Yours B.
Is anyone using an external gps with their X7501?
My internal seems so hit or miss - works sometimes, then not at all. And usually slow to acquire a position.
I would be using a Garmin RINO gps as the external receiver and haven't found a male mini B to male mini B USB cable yet to connect them.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Ron
ron-powell said:
Is anyone using an external gps with their X7501?
My internal seems so hit or miss - works sometimes, then not at all. And usually slow to acquire a position.
I would be using a Garmin RINO gps as the external receiver and haven't found a male mini B to male mini B USB cable yet to connect them.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Ron
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well can't help with cable but would think the 4 in 1 would let you
access USB port,I use a BT332 receiver with 7501 occasionally and it works
well,possibly a bluetooth off Ebay would be simpler.
I've been thinking of doing the same with a USB GPS I have which I know is extremely sensitive, and fast. I just don't have a 4-in-1 to test. I would leave it in the car for road trips and use the internal (and pray) when on foot.
If it helps, you aren't the only one. Many people have had problems. One person opened his up and claims that messing with the internal antenna fixed his problem, so it might be a manufacturing issue. Others have tried various ports and baud speeds and found solutions that way.
OK, I bought the 4 in 1 cable.
I tried a program called "VisualGPSce" to see if the receiver was passing on a position. I tried selecting any/all of the various serial ports available in the program, but none were getting any information from the receiver.
The Garmin interface is set to NMEA.
Any ideas?
Did you set up the port in the Connections > External GPS?
techntrek Did you set up the port in the Connections > External GPS?
I finally got around to playing with the ports but was never able to figure out which port the 4 in 1 cable USB was supposed to be.
I also thought I might have a bad cable since it would not "see" a brand-x thumb drive. Plugged in a friend's Kingston drive and it was immediately recognized. (learned all this from another thread here)
Last night the internal GPS was working but I had to remove the 7501 from the metal case. Perhaps this is part of the intermittent reception problems, although if I remove the device from the case, acquire a position and then put it back in the case, signal strength drops but it will still provide position data. That case has saved my bacon a couple of times, having dropped the device from desktop height twice. No damage whatsoever to the unit.
Anyone have any idea where the GPS antenna is in the 7501 case (edge?) I could modify the metal case somewhat to give it a clearer field of view and go back to working the internal GPS.
On the back of the 7501 there are 2 small rubber pop outs.
One of those is connection for an external gps antenna,
it's located closest to the camera lens.
http://member.america.htc.com/downl...vantage X7501/HTC_Advantage7501_Manual_US.pdf
If you look around the net you can find the Athena service manuals, which may describe where the antennas are. Only from memory, I believe the person that opened his up and played with the internal antenna said it was along the top near where the antenna ports are (which makes sense since antenna ports usually plug in at the base of internal antennas).
Keep in mind those antenna ports are for external antennas, and not external GPS receivers. As you look at the back, the one on the left is for cellular, the one on the right is for GPS.
I guess it's again not necessary to allow for a clear view of the sky for the internal GPS antenna because it stopped working again. No amount of settings tweaks have gotten it going again.
I'm still interested to see if an external GPS receiver will provide position data for loaded software, but when I connect the Garmin RINO to the 4in1 cable, the Advantage asks for a "driver name" for the receiver. I doubt Garmin has such a thing.
I looked for a generically named driver in the /windows folder onboard and was unable to ID anything.
The Samsung Anyway Jig
Summary: Some information and pictures of the mysterious Samsung Anyway Jig
Skill Level: Medium
==================================================
Do NOT post questions/requests on how to obtain one, they
will not be answered. (Because I have no idea, since its
Samsung proprietary test equipment!)
Do NOT post links to commercial jigs, unless you also post
the internal schematics, in such a way that it can be easily
constructed at home.
If you already have a working home-made multifunction jig
that you would like to share, please remember:
- a picture of the device
- a picture of the schematics
- a detailed parts list
- the phone/models it applies to
- any other relevant features to make it work
==================================================
Purpose
As custom ROM flashing become more and more popular, the XDA-forums are
continuously bombarded with questions and answers on how to debrick their
devices, often using (what used to be) professional hardware analysis and
debugging equipment, like vendor provided JTAG, JIG and software flashing
tools. These tools used to be only available to certified technical repair and
support centers, closely connected with the various phone vendors. However,
this scenario is rapidly changing as more people are getting higher technical
skills, while using these devices and tools on their phones.
One particular such device, provided by Samsung, has been used for years to
program, customize, repair, debug and unbrick essentially all available
Samsung phones. This blue box is called the "Samsung Anyway Jig", and somehow
Samsung has managed to hide it from public scrutiny and analysis, which have
elevated this device to an almost mythical status. At least for the common
person wishing to repair or modify his phone. Probably because Samsung have
realized that there is a great profit to be made, by having their customer
sending their phones in for repair, rather than letting them in on the simple
secret on how to do this kind of repairs themselves. This behavior have also
been a great joy for the few professional service centers that actually have
access to this device (or similar devices) or who were able to figure out how
it works, making it into a million dollar industry, and obviously without
sharing their knowledge to the public.
Thanks to great community oriented websites and forums like XDA and others,
the public awareness have increased to such a level, that today anyone (with
minimal soldering skills) can build a multifunction and debricking JIG. And
because of the increasingly better standardization among mobile phone
manufacturers, very few modifications are needed for this device to be working
with essentially any modern mobile-phone on the market.
This thread is an attempt to better understand the Samsung Anyway Jig, such
that one can build his/her own Jig, with the information contained herein,
together with many other publicly available documents. It shall be noted that
I do not have access to this device, and I have neither factual data, nor
info, on how this thing actually works. But I do have a very good idea!
Close inspection, of the only 3 (!) images found, as obtained by Google Image
Search (which I am growing increasingly unhappy with), provide a good start
for what is going on in that device.
The Anyway Versions
The Anyway Jig come in slightly different versions. And since I only have access
to 4 pictures, I cannot tell what other versions are available. However, I
noticed the following:
Code:
[SIZE=2]Version PartNumber Variation/Note
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
S100 Doesn't have "EMP" Solution
S101 GH99-36900A Has "EMP" solution. Is used with GT-S7230 (Bada OS)
S102[/SIZE][SIZE=2] GH99-36900B [/SIZE][SIZE=2]1.2A High-Current version for Tabs & Tablets
[/SIZE]
{
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}
So let me first reproduce the text as seen on the photo of this box:
Code:
[SIZE=2]
| Function
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No Solution | Mode OFF ON
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 Agere TC | Boot Low High
2 Hp, Vision, Infineon | SDS O X
3 NXP Sysol | USB O X
4 NXP Swift Broadcom | DBG X O
5 UMTS (Qualcomm) | M-USB Use Not Use
6 EMP | ID type UART USB
7 - | ID-BOOT Boot-On Boot-Off
8 - | - - -
9 - | SDS TRX - Loop
10 - | DBG TRX - Loop
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| O = Connect, X = Disconnect
[/SIZE]
"The Solution"
The first thing to notice, is that the "Solution" column is completely
independent of the "Function" column. The "Solution" column seem to refer to
the manufacturer of the modem hardware used in the device, usually the
cellular/baseband processor (CP/BP) used by your phone or the modem chip in
routers etc. You can find out what you have by using the methods I have
outlined in the thread: "Phone/Modem Hardware Cross Reference List".
Once you know what you have, you use the 10-pole (BCD?) rotary micro-switch,
as shown in the picture below, to set it to the number corresponding to your
phone modem. (The settings in that picture, corresponds to a Samsung Wave
[GT-S7230] which has a Broadcom BP and thus the rotary-switch is set to #4.)
But according to this document, for attaching a [GT-I9000], you need to set
it to #2 (for Infineon).
It is unclear at this point whether or not this setting is actually changed
much when using various modern phones. It is more likely that this is used for
backward compatibility to older phones that use older connectors, and that new
phones all use the same setting since most of them, now use micro-USB
connectors. Otherwise it simply wouldn't make sense to use a
micro-rotary-switch, especially considering the vast number of modems chips
available today, while the uUSB standard connectors doesn't allow other
signals.
"The Function"
As you have already noticed, next to the rotary switch, there is a 10-pole DIL
switch, that is used to set the Jigs "Function", or behavior. The table above
show the various functional options available, that you can use for the JIG.
Although it is unclear what all these functions actually does, without access
to a box or manual, we are free to make some educated guesses.
Here we make the following (rather wild) guesses as what the various modes does:
Code:
[SIZE=2]DILpos Mode Typical What Description-Guess
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 Boot 0 Low ??
2 SDS 1 X ??
3 USB 0 O ?Enable/disable USB pass trough: [target]--->[JIG]--->[PC]
4 DBG 0 X ?Enable/disable debug by "port":
5 M-USB 0 Use ?Enable/disable modem USB connection
6 ID type 1 USB ?"Interface Dongle" output-side selection (wheter to use the USB or UART to connect to PC)
7 ID-BOOT 0 Boot-on ?Determines if the device should bootup/start when connected to the JIG.
8 - - - -
9 SDS TRX 0 - ?Enable/disable Loopback on this interface
10 DBG TRX 0 - ?Enable/disable Loopback on this interface
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
where (0==OFF, 1=ON) of the 10-pol DIL switch,
while "O" is connect and "X" disconnect.[/SIZE]
If you have any knowledge of what these does, please let us know. For example,
I like to know what the "SDS" refers to and what it is/was used for?
Then What?
So how interesting is this, for our modern Android based and micro-USB
connected phones, on a scale from 1-10? Probably not much more than 3.
Because most of the device magic happens inside the phone, determined by
various internal multiplexers (MUX), resistance/capacitance detectors, the
Power Management IC (PMIC) and related device drivers.
The most important thing to understand, is that today there are very specific
standards regarding what functionality is offered and expected, given certain
conditions on the micro-USB signals. For example, shorting the D+ and D- USB
signals, tells your phone to start charging, using the VBUS and GND lines.
While a resitive short between the micro-USB lines ID_CON (pin 4) and GND
(pin-5), allows and selects a wide range of functionality from remote control,
debug mode, download mode, audio/video transfer and everything else you may
want to do. These are some of the things we would like to focus on here.
So what is more interesting, is how we can build a JIG that is much more
modern and useful than this old dinosaur, that can provide us with a fully
controlled set of the functions mentioned above. So if you still dream about
getting one, forget it and build your own! Below I will link to a list of DIY
multifunction JIGs. That means I only list serious JIGs that contain a little
more functionality, than just a resistor. Post if you have something worth
showing.
Useful Resources
*Fun with resistors (home/car dock mode + more)
Lets Save Some Bricks
*The Captivate Development Platform mod AKA UnBrickable Mod
Set up a Captivate for Samsung Bootloader Development
The Vibrant Development Platform AKA UnBrickable Mod
USB Jig FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) [4/4/2012] ICS bootloader added
Galaxy S UART JIG & Debugging Connector
Complete USB2.0 Specifications (>13 MB, 30 files, main: 650 pages)
USB Battery Charging Specifications 1.2 (71 pages)
FSA9280A Datasheet (Used in SGS1)
FSA9285 censored Datasheet ()
FSA9485 censored Datasheet ()
FSA3200 Datasheet (Used in SGS2)
---------------------------------------
* Strongly recommended reading
Let me know of any dead links.
Here is an internal photo of the original Anyway S100.
Keywords: jig, samsung, anyway, resistors, multiplex
UPDATE: 2012-10-24
Anyway Software, Drivers and Manuals for:
Anyway D100 (8 port factory jig)
Anyway S100 (1 port factory jig)
Can be found for download in Post#67 ...
Building your own multifunction JIG
The first thing you need to know, when building your own jig, is how various
resistor values determine the behavior of your phone. Below is a list of
resistor values used in the FSA9280A multiplexer chip. These values have been
become a bit of a standard for new Samsung phones and are thus likely to
remain true also for new models and many other devices running AOS. In
post #3 we use these values to build our Resistor Banks.
FSA9280A/88A Resistor Value Functionality
ID_CON Accessory Detection Table (ID_CON resistance to GND):
Code:
[SIZE=2]ADC-reg Min Typ Max Attn Accessory Detected
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
00000 GND [COLOR=Red]GND [/COLOR]GND ! Host Mode / OTG (On-The-Go)
00001 1.9K 2K 2.1K Audio Send/End Button
00010 2.47K 2.604K 2.73K Audio Remote S1 Button
00011 3.05K 3.208K 3.37K Audio Remote S2 Button
00100 3.81K 4.014K 4.21K Audio Remote S3 Button
00101 4.58K 4.82K 5.06K Audio Remote S4 Button
00110 5.73K 6.03K 6.33K Audio Remote S5 Button
00111 7.63K 8.03K 8.43K Audio Remote S6 Button
01000 9.53K 10.03K 10.53K Audio Remote S7 Button
01001 11.43K 12.03K 12.63K Audio Remote S8 Button
01010 13.74K 14.46K 15.18K Audio Remote S9 Button
01011 16.4K 17.26K 18.12K Audio Remote S10 Button
01100 19.48K 20.5K 21.53K Audio Remote S11 Button
01101 22.87K 24.07K 25.27K Audio Remote S12 Button
01110 27.27K 28.7K 30.14K Reserved Accessory #1
01111 32.3K 34K 35.7K Reserved Accessory #2
10000 38.19K 40.2K 42.21K Reserved Accessory #3
10001 47.41K 49.9K 52.4 K Reserved Accessory #4
10010 61.66K 64.9K 68.15K Reserved Accessory #5
10011 76.1K [COLOR=Red]80.7K[/COLOR] 84.1K ! Audio Device Type-2
10100 96.9K [COLOR=Red]102K[/COLOR] 107.1K ! Phone Powered Device
10101 115K 121K 127K TTY Converter
10110 143K 150K 157K UART Cable
10111 190K 200K 210K Type-1 Car Kit Charger*
11000 242K 255K 268K Factory Mode Boot OFF-USB
11001 292K 301K 316K Factory Mode Boot ON-USB
11010 347K [COLOR=Red]365K[/COLOR] 383K ! Audio/Video MHL Cable**
11011 420K 442K 464K Type-2 Car Kit Charger*
11100 507K 523K 549K Factory Mode Boot OFF-UART
11101 588K 619K 650K Factory Mode Boot ON-UART
11110 750K 1000/2K 1050K Audio Device Type-1 with Remote
11111 - Open - Slave Mode / Charger Mode***
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
* USB Car Kit specification: ANSI/CEA-936-A.
** USB MHL (Mobile High definition Link)
! Attention, when these values are used, all pin functions
changes. Having the wrong device connected in this mode, may
short and brick interior phone chips.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[/SIZE]
There is a good reason why some resistor values are marked as "DO NOT USE", in
the original FSA9280A datasheet. That reason is because these values trigger a
signal path switch (by cascading multiplexers), in such a way that the
original 2-5 USB (cable) signals no longer exists as such. If this occurs,
when you have another type of device connected, than what was intended for
that function, you risk short-circuiting and bricking the relevant internal
chip that is driving that function. The best example is the MHL function. When
MHL is activated, all mUSB pins become part of MHL signal lines. If during you
happen to have a dedicated charger connected instead of a dedicated
mUSB-to-HDMI cable, you will for sure burn out your MHL Transmitter chip (or
possibly any other chip using those signals in that path). Why? Because a
dedicated charger has D+ and D- pins shorted, while its trying to provide +5V
(@1.2A) on pin-1. This at the same time the MHL chip is trying to provide
various output signals on all 5 pins!
Factory Mode Auto-Configuration Table (1% Resistors on ID_CON Pin):
Code:
[SIZE=2]Configuration Boot VBUS DP_CON DM_CON ID_CON BOOT JIG
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FactoryMode 0 (UART) On Open RxD TxD 619K HIGH LOW --> Triggers "Dock Mode" (Google Car Home)
FactoryMode 0 (UART) Off Open RxD TxD 523K LOW LOW -->
FactoryMode 1 (USB) On Closed DP_Host DM_Host 301K HIGH LOW --> Triggers "Download Mode" (aka "Debrick/Recovery JIG")
FactoryMode 1 (USB) Off Closed DP_Host DM_Host 255K LOW LOW -->
[/SIZE]
In addition to the above resistor values based on just that one chip, and mainly used by Samsung, there is an international standard specification for Battery Charging. In these spec's there are three additional values to consider.
Battery Charging 1.1 Specifications
(May need to be verified...)
Code:
[SIZE=2]DCP: USB Dedicated Charger Port RID_A = 124K
CDP: USB Charging Downstream Port RID_B = 68K
SDP: USB Standard Downstream Port RID_C = 36.5K
where RID = "Resistor Identification"[/SIZE]
List of DIY multifunction JIGs
UberPinguin's Multi-R Jig
Another nice I9100 UART JIG (chinese)
DHylands SGS2 Serial Adapter and Console
Recommended UART Cables
FTDI's "Chipi-X" USB-to-RS232 Cable
Good to Know
Android D2XX FTDI Driver
"Build your own Music dock" [Samsung]
The Dancing MyWay Jig
< here be dragons 2 >
Dude! excellent find. Holy Hack!
you may have seen this thread.. http://forum.gsmhosting.com/vbb/f200/who-used-samsung-anyway-jig-1347210/
that Duc guy may have some info.
someone also links to a user manual where you can see more of that puppy in action.. http://samfirmware.webs.com/I5801_Flash_Tutorial_English.pdf
enjoy. ciao.
^^ Yeah, thanks, but most of those links are dead and the "manual" is just an old standard flashing/service manual. In fact I got the above pictures from some other service manuals. Finally, I don't like having to register to a website, just so that I can see some images.
I do have a AnyWay S100 jig here that i got when samsung support left the place i work. I think i can get a hold of all the cables that they had for it. If i remember correct there was never a micro usb cable tho. But if you want i cna open that puppy up and provide pictures of the inside of the jig. also it could be nice if i could find a way to make a micro usb cable for it...
ParanoidDK said:
But if you want i cna open that puppy up and provide pictures of the inside of the jig.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes! We'd love to see what's inside! Chips, and wiring etc!
Do you happen to have any windows software drivers for the device? (Why? Because of this.)
Making a micro USB hack would be easy...if you have the right tools or a micro-USB breakout PCB. Just remember that most micro-USB to USB cables do not have the USB_ID line in the cable, but is immediately shorted inside micro-connector. You could get a micro-to-mini-USB cable, that should also include the USB_ID (aka ID_CON) line, but these are hard to find as they are not conforming to common USB cable standards.
Well the usb cable should be the least thing... And if i make one i might just as well make one from start with a micro usb plug, cable and the printer plug in the other end... I think i might be able to use the cable for one of the older samsung phones i have for the box as start point...
i have a print i need to make and then i will open up the box and start to take some pics with my SGS3 just so you can get a preview of the inside...
An anonymous and friendly contributor have come forward with a little bit more information, although not very useful.
1) The S102 model is modified to allow a higher current as used in Tablets.
2) The manual "Function" settings can now be made in software, and is no longer used. (Well then, how is it set in software?)
3) The "Solution" for Galaxy models should be set to "NXP Swift". (But this contradicts the Service Manual for the GT-I9100 and others! But is probably explained by the different BP's used in those devices.)
We need internal pictures! (or the schematics)
Here is some pictures of the internals from the S100 i have here. Proberly not the best ones but the best i can take with my cam... If i have to take better ones i will have to get my friend involved with his DSLR.
I had to upload them to my server as they was to large to upload to xda...
Internals Pictures of the AnyWay S100 Jig
-----EDIT----
I am going to see if i can find the last cables and the psu for the jig today in the bin... As it is now without the PSU windows dont even see the device...
ParanoidDK said:
Here is some pictures of the internals from the S100 i have here. Proberly not the best ones but the best i can take with my cam... If i have to take better ones i will have to get my friend involved with his DSLR.
I had to upload them to my server as they was to large to upload to xda...
Internals Pictures of the AnyWay S100 Jig
-----EDIT----
I am going to see if i can find the last cables and the psu for the jig today in the bin... As it is now without the PSU windows dont even see the device...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hi thanks to give all i need full box so can you help me ?
[email protected] said:
hi thanks to give all i need full box so can you help me ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am not going to part with the anyway jig i got so no... You will have to keep looking on ebay... I dont mind opening it up to let the world see the inside but am not going to sell it.
That's a whole lot of relays in that box.
I don't know if anyone has stated which connector is for what,
but I'd guess that the 25 pin connector goes to a model-specific resistor assembly.
Too much of the relay wiring goes out there.
The big "printer port" is the port for the phone connections that i know... i have a cable for a older samsung phone with the box... and that might be a problem because it might use diffrent pins for diffrent phone models... so without seeing both ends of the micro usb cable naked it will be hard to make a cable...
If you guys need more pics let me know... i can also strip that samsung cable i allready got...
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
ParanoidDK said:
Here is some pictures of the internals from the S100 i have here... I am going to see if i can find the last cables and the psu for the jig today in the bin... As it is now without the PSU windows dont even see the device...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow! This thing was (any?) way more complicated inside than what I could have imagined! Containing several relays, a PIC16F876A, and who knows what all those other chips are doing.
This is kind of bad news, as then it will be nearly impossible to build anything like it. At least without the firmware for the PIC and the drivers used. However, I believe that most of its functionality is for switching purposes in order to be able to use it on a broad spectrum of devices. So if we can limit ourselves to the most recent smart phones with micro-USB connectors, much of the internal electronic can be ignored.
So don't worry about the PSU (Power Supply Unit?). It would be much more useful if you have the drivers...
This is how it looks:
<I seem to have some upload problems!! >
(Not sure if its an XDA issue or not...)
EDIT: Now it worked...3 days later!
Could you take apart the shell on the 25 pin adapter cable for the old cell phone model?
I'll bet that there are some precision resistors in there.
Thanks.
I dont have the drivers... and i do worry about the psu because without that the unit dont work....
I will open the cable and upload some pictures of that today....
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium
no comment
You sure have some problems with that image E:V:A
But here it is (I hope):
Did just open the cable i got ant it is a S20 cable.
http://www.samsung.com/us/mobile/cell-phones-accessories/APCBS10UBEBSTD
There is no resistors it is just a 25 pins to S20 cable... Will upload some pics here in a bit... And now i really have to check to see if there are more cables just to check the 25 pins end..
---EDIT----
Link to pictures of the naked cable: http://blog.moonman.dk/files/Anyway_S20_cable.zip
Are you sure that this jig does anything for current cell phones?
It seems to me that this device has nothing to do with the semi-standard today
of 5 pin micro USB connectors with resistance coding on the 5th ID pin.