Hi there! I have an 70pud7906/77 Philips TV (2020/2021 UHD Android TV)
I'm trying to get better results in terms of speed (some lag spikes on 4k). I activated DevOptions and limit the Background Process Limit to 2 (I tested it, when is limited, the TV works FLAWLESS). Then comes the problem: everytime I turn off my TV, and turn ON again, the Developer Options (not ALL) are rebooted.
Some options like 'Window Animation Scale' or 'Transition Animation Scale' doesn't reboot at all (works great!) but, for example, 'Animator Duration Scale' is getting rebooted like the Background Process Limit.
Any ideas?
TV: Philips TV 70pud7906/77
Model: 2020/2021 UHD Android TV
Kernel: 4.19.108+
Software Version: TPM215L_R.001.002.051.003 (last version, I've spoken with support)
Related
Hi guys, I'm facing a weird issue and I can't find a way to fix it.
I own a Nexus 6p since september 2016 and it was all fine and dandy until I started noticing green blocky compression artifacts on some youtube videos (standard 2D ones). I initially though it was a connection issue (wi-fi or data network). Then i tryed to use the phone as a VR display with Riftcat and Vridge but I got horrible artifacts on the video stream regardless of the transmission method or codec chosen, I tried both wi-fi and USB tethering.
Now seeing that the issue kept going I tried installing the Within app from Google store and downloaded the 360 stereoscopic movie "Invasion!" on my phone storage and played it.
Green blocky lines are there, and it's not a network issue since it is now an offline file. They tend to appear along the "meridians" of the virtual sphere on top of which the 3d video is projected (it's not a display fault since these bands are not in a fixed position on the display, they are in the movie).
It certainly looks like a codec issue, almost like my CPU can't keep up with the data provided by the video file or the data stream.
Also the problem doesn't show if I use a realtime VR app like the Carboard demo, so it's definitely something with videos.
I tried monitoring cpu frequency with Cool Tool and the frequency usually ranges between 960 MHz and 1444 MHz during playback.
Is there something I'm missing? This phone shouldn't be that weak in decompressing videos.
I've recently received the Android N 7.1.1 OTA update, but I'm full stock since I bought the phone.
Any help would be appreciated.
We all know that the Z3+ battery is quite disappointing, it barely reaches 5:30 hours of SOT in best case scenario.
I've tried every little trick in the book, including modified kernels, different ROMs, underclocking CPU cores, and so on.
And all of these methods seemed to squeeze a max of 30 extra minutes of battery life, it isn't worth the trouble.
But finally, I managed to get 8 hours of SOT in my Xperia E6533, I'll share the method with you "Although it might seem a little basic, but this is the only method that actually made me get whole two extra hours of SOT".
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What I did was:
- I started by doing a clean install of 32.2.A.5.11 ftf "By clean I mean I wiped everything, Userdata, Cache, everything"
- I flashed the stock kernel with TWRP included and DRM fixed "I'll include the kernel I modded using Serjar's rootkernel tool in another thread", I tried several other kernels, but for me, the stock one was most suitable.
- Installed Xposed and SuperSU from TWRP "Optional"
- Installed "Hide Stamina Mode Icon" Xposed module from Xposed Repository "Optional"
- I enabled Stamina Mode "Always"
- I went to Battery Optimization and ticked the apps that I want them to have internet access all the time "Even when the screen is off".
- Stamina Mode works like a charm in android M, Unlike android N, it doesn't seem to cause any lag, it only removed unnecessary animations.
- I went to about phone > Build number > 5 times > Developer mode.
- Removed any other animation from Developer mode like Transition, Window, and Animator duration.
- Went to Settings > More > Mobile Network.
- Changed preferred network type to WCDMA/GSM instead of LTE/WCDMA/GSM "Keep it on if you have an LTE connection"
- Went to my router settings > changed the channel bandwidth to 20MHZ instead of 20/40MHZ.
- Removed any third-party kill apps like greenify, etc, while I highly appreciate its effectiveness, Stamina mode seemed to work better on its own.
- Went to Settings > Display > Tap to wake up / Smart backlight control / Daydream / Image Enhancement > Disabled "Image enhancement really doesn't seem to make a noticeable difference".
- Removed weather widget.
- Disabled NFC "optional".
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All of these basic and simple steps seemed to work better than the complicated ones, and thanks to them, I was able to get full 8 hours of normal SOT "Wifi, Facebook, Messenger, YouTube, Social Media, Movies" on my Xperia Z3+ "Screenshots in attachments"
Would this affect the camera quality since it uses Stamina?
I would like to charge the mobile twice rather to lose beauty of OS and carry a spare feature phone with loooooooong battery time for use in emergency.
Nokia 1208
Exactly. I too carry along a good old Nokia 1208 that I only use for GSM based services, and I only gotta charge it ONCE a week. Incredible! I use my Xperia Z3 heavily of course and that one is charged daily.
waseemakhtar said:
I would like to charge the mobile twice rather to lose beauty of OS and carry a spare feature phone with loooooooong battery time for use in emergency.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's all about preferences, for me the beauty was never in these small animations, because I used to disable them from developer options anyway.
story said:
Would this affect the camera quality since it uses Stamina?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not that I know of, I didn't spot any difference
Hi everyone ! Just wonder to know if anybody succeeded to use DJI Phantom 3 standard or other model with OnePlus 5 ? I have horrible lags on video preview of the aircraft that make impossible using the phone to control it... I've been trying for the past week, flashing different kernels, using different apps and was not able to make it working... Anyone that might have a fix ? ??
Due to his specs the OnePlus 5 should works perfectly... I can even make it working on my old Samsung Galaxy S5 and it runs smoothly...
I assume you have all power-saving features turned OFF
I assume you have the "developer options" for your graphics / animations on the phone left at stock settings.
Does the OSD (on screen display) for your battery life, altitude and those things update in real time smoothly while the FPV is lagging?
If so, then it is more like a Wi-Fi communication issue over that specific port. Ensure you have no security/ antiviral apps running that would be scanning these types of ports (or doing any type of deep-packet-inspection).
Hi guys, I just got a OnePlus 8 and loaded LineageOS 18.1 onto it and wanted to use it to play games on my 4K TV.
The following is a list of the problems and solutions I encountered to get there.
First, I used a USB-C to HDMI adapter on my 4K TV.
I connect my DualShock 4 to it via bluetooth for a console experience.
a) Problem 1 - Full screen output is shifted to the right slightly (black bar on left side)
Solution 1 - I rooted and used this Magisk module here with the OnePlus 8 preset. It requires enabling in Developer settings (Cutouts) after installation.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/module-n3o-no-nonsense-notch-overlay.4226413/
b) Problem 2 - Aspect was weird (black bars on top and bottom)
Solution 2 - SecondScreen with the resolution set to 1080p fixed this. Full screen on TV.
c) Problem 3 - Despite setting SecondScreen to 1080p, phone was outputting to my 4K TV at 4K30Hz (and presumably just upscaling). Horrible input lag and frame rates. I could find NO SETTING to change this anywhere. ADB commands such as adb shell wm size etc had no effect and I think are just what SecondScreen uses behind the scenes as they produced a similar effect. But when I connected it to my 1080p monitor there were no issues, things were smooth and responsive so....
Solution 3 - I bought something like one of these: an EDID emulator for HDMI and it is working like a charm. Fools the phone into thinking the TV's max res is 1080p and so the phone outputs at that. Now buttery smooth frame rates.
https://www.amazon.com/Passthrough-Generrtion-Headlesskeep-Extenders-3840x2160/dp/B08RCMFLMK/
d) Problem 4 - Brightness on phone weirdly tied to brightness on TV. I had to run it at full backlight to get full brightness on TV
Solution 4 - Disabling the display anti-flicker setting seemed to unlink the brightness on the phone and TV. Now I can play at normal brightness on TV with zero on phone (set by SecondScreen)
e) Problem 5 - Using a phone as a video game console uses battery.
Solution 5 - Got a new USB-C adapter that allows charging. Not this, but something like this. Confirmed can charge and have video out to my TV at the same time.
https://www.amazon.com/Multiport-Delivery-Converter-Compatible-Chrome-Book/dp/B087Q62H89/
And there you go. So far this seems totally viable and cool, and I am a fussy, hard-to-please kind of person.
I am looking forward to using this to keep playing some RPGs I would like to get through, with a console experience at home but still able to pick up and continue a bit when out.
Hope this helps someone! Spent hours googling and trying to figure this stuff out.
It's **** like this that got me into modding droids in the first place. You are a legend and a gangster. Keep on doing whatever. XD
This is an excellent guide and gives me more confidence to install the mod and mess with it. Thanks
Useful info like this will hopefully increase the likelihood that the community will use roms to implement the desktop experience. Maru was one example I saw a redditor post but it's in early development.
Also check out Taskbar which is an excellent app for DTE on non-rooted phones
Last month I bought a cheap Chinese 4k android TV and for the last weeks it has been great.
However I recently bought a PS5 and it is basicly stuck at 1080p forever unless I restart the TV every time I want to game.
The only way I get the PS5 to output 4k to the TV is on the first time after a cold boot of the TV. At this state everything is working really well (4k HDR everything).
Now if I turn the PS5 off and power it on again, it reports it can only do 1080p and the option for 4k is greyed out and the only way to fix it is to reboot the whole TV.
As you could imagine this is totally driving me crazy. (By the way the same Symptoms apply to other 4k capable devices such as a Fire TV Stick I had laying around)
The TV settings are also completely useless and there are no options regarding "UHD Color" or resolution.
If someone has any ideas on how to fix this I would be really happy.
Thank you in advance.
So I fiddled with the settings a bit and stumbled across a greyed out setting called "HDMI-EDID Version" which was set to "AUTO-EDID" but since this is a greyed out setting I could not change it in any way.
Then after countless hours of searching in the Internet and tempted to buy an HDMI EDID emulator, I found someone who had similar issues with a shield TV and a projector. He used adb and "bugreport" to find out about the EDID capabilities of his TV and so did I.
So now after generating the bug report using adb and searching for EDID, I found this line:
"settings/global/tv_input_hdmi_edid_version" which was set to "2" by default.
So fair enough I executed the command:
adb shell settings put global tv_input_hdmi_edid_version 1
And the greyed out setting now shows "EDID-2.0" and everything is working as it should and no more restarting of the TV is required to get 4K HDR from the PS5.
So it seems like it was indeed a firmware issue or more or less a broken auto EDID feature.