Hi all!
I have just installed a Joying JUL128N2 in my 2007 Alfa Romeo 159.
Overall, I am happy with this unit.
I have read through most of the posts regarding this unit, and that has helped me to solve a lot of issues in the last 3 days. For that, I thank this community!
Anyway, I still haven´t hook up the canbus box to enable my steering wheel controls. I have the following question:
Installation
I have purchased an ISO wiring adapter kit for my car (CTSAR002.2), which includes a canbus decoder box connected inline, (by a plug in one end of the box) between the car side of the wiring and the headunit side. It seems that wires go in and out from this same plug (at least 3 come out and are free)
There is another plug in the opposite end of the box that should be used to connect to specific radio brands. I received a universal version of that cable (CTMULTILEAD.2), which has 3 wires and a 3.5mm jack plug.
Question: Do I need to use the “multilead” patch, or should I use the 3 free wires coming from the front part on the main harness?
In any case, what goes where?
The mentioned cables for reference:
http://www.connects2.co.uk/Product/ProductItem/CTSAR002.2
http://www.connects2.co.uk/Product/ProductItem/CTMULTILEAD.2
Furthermore: is it possible for other car brands, other than VAG group, to send more information to the HU, such as parking assist and other car info?
Thanks very much!
Anyone successfully installed joying to Mitsubishi Lancer/Outlander 2007-2012 with rockford to have armrest USB, SWC and stock Mitsubishi camera working?
Please post information (preferably with links) which wires and connectors did you order. I am struggling with many no-name connectors available in car-audio stores and they don't work...
Sent from my Nexus 5X using XDA-Developers Legacy app
juniorkm7 said:
Anyone successfully installed joying to Mitsubishi Lancer/Outlander 2007-2012 with rockford to have armrest USB, SWC and stock Mitsubishi camera working?
Please post information (preferably with links) which wires and connectors did you order. I am struggling with many no-name connectors available in car-audio stores and they don't work...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Might have to trace wires and build your own harness
does anyone know which canbus decoder will work with Joying 124N2 and Mitsubishi Rockford amp?
Sent from my Nexus 5X using XDA-Developers Legacy app
I have a suzuki kizashi which also HAD a fosgate system in at one point very similar to that of the mitsu.
though I now run an aftermarket amp, I'm still using the factory wiring and just spliced in to the harness of the fosgate system for the amp outputs but also wiring between the headunit and amp location.
I am not running any of the factory fosgate anymore, just using the wiring.
lucky for me I had another user already do a similar mod, and had every wire in the car decoded and documented so splicing the 20 or so wires wasn't too bad.
this looks like it may work for you
https://aerpro.com/chmb1c
and
https://aerpro.com/camt01
I have to say though, the fosgate systems don't sound all that great without the original headunit as you lose the factory EQ they put in the headunit, isn't an issue anymore since i run an outboard DSP and Amp.
OK I have finally installed the Joying Head Unit with a help of a friend who is Mitsubishi freak and knows everything about every cable and fuse in the car. To make it work I needed to buy additionally MITO-02 adapter and USB adapter for armrest located port. SWC is easy -connect KEY1 cable from Joying harness to one of the MITO-02 wires (brown-sky blue) cutting isolation a bit and plugging this cable to create some T connection.
The only concern for now is that the radio doesn't turn on and off with ignition. Stays on all the time. Any ideas how to change it? I was thinking on swithching cables ACC to 12V+ and vice versa. Will it work?
Hello all!
I've got a Joying Octo-core 4Gb/32Gb 8.1 SC9853i unit installed in my 2005 Toyota Prius (w/nav and jbl sound.). I'm very pleased with the main functions of the unit, but I'm having a couple of issues. I've been messaging Joying about it. They're trying to help, but I'm getting the impression they aren't quite tracking me.
The first issue is with the steering wheel controls. My car has the three wire controls which are attached to key1, key2, and ground on the Joying supplied Toyota harness. I have double, triple, and quadruple checked these wires on both sides of each connector. Using my multi-meter, I can see changes in resistance upon button presses when checking from key1 to ground, and different buttons from key2 to ground, exactly as expected. I can see this happening all the way to the iso plug that goes to the back of the head unit. The signal is definitely getting to the unit.
When I go into the control software, though, absolutely nothing happens when I try to program buttons. There is a batch of numbers across the top that are supposed to change according to resistance, but they are quite stubbornly sitting at 255.
If my phone was exhibiting squirrelly behavior like this, I'd re-flash it and start fresh. Extending this concept to the head unit, I found Joying's update page and pulled a fresh copy of the firmware, carefully checking the version for my head unit. This one is the 4.3 release. It appeared to flash successfully, but there was no change in the SWC functions. I also tried the 3.29 release to no avail. I ended up sticking with that one for now, as notifications don't work on the newer release. I also rooted it with Magisk. That didn't change anything, not did I expect it to.
I'm also having difficulty with my reverse camera. My car did not have one to start with, but I added one a very long time ago using a CanView system (a low-production aftermarket mini computer that injected video via the navigation feed.) I've removed all of that except the camera itself, which is a simple thing that produces video on a composite RCA plug, which I've plugged in to the rev-video jack on the head unit. It completely refuses to switch to the reverse video.
My harness has a can-bus decoder which I thought would pick up reverse, but I'm starting to think it only enables the jbl amplifier. So, I grabbed a reverse wire from the tail light and connected it to the appropriate wire in the harness. It still won't switch. I even tried using an always-hot to test the reverse and it wouldn't switch. I repeated this with a completely different RCA camera, just in case the problem was with the installed one. No dice.
I'm at a loss for what to do to troubleshoot now. Anybody have an idea?
cannot say anything about SWC as i have different HU.
About reverse camera - can you post the picture of your harness? Usually HU has the wire marked as "BACK CAM" or "REV CAM" or "REAR CAM" or similar, and the +Vcc (or GND) on this cable controls the switching to reverse camera view. Some HUs have switchable setting to detect either +Vcc or GND on this cable - pls check this also (it is in the car settings in a part protected with password).
Hello fellow Prius NHW20 owner! I have just installed a SC9853i based Android 8.1 unit (can't post link yet, search for Nuoweida 9853 solution). My steering wheel control works fine. I connected a 68 Ohm resister between pins 9 and 10 of the CN703 port. I connected SW1 (pin 7) and SW2 (pin 8) and GND (pin 6) to the corresponding wires of the head unit. I used the Toyota Steering Wheel harness that I got from ebay.
I still haven't installed the rear camera. Let me know if you have any questions.
Hi professionals. Thanks for reading my plea for help. I have a 2005 SLK 200 R171. I recently decided to change my player from the usual audio 20 with cd changer to this Erisin Android PX5 head unit i got off aliexpress. When i received it, i noticed that the harness supplied with the player did not fit my car. Hence i opted to buy a Dynavin harness which by pictures the harness fitted my original plug but the cable attaching to my headunit did not. So i did my rewiring myself. Followed the usual colour and power and got the headunit powered up. However i noticed the can bus is fed with one constant wire, one ground wire, and both the can high and can low cables from the car. And there are 3 cables that goes from the canbus unit to the headunit i.e. brown for reverse, red for acc, orange for illumination. I have 2 more wires with a small harness (White and white/black stripe wire) that does not have an input to anywhere (I believe that Is the canbus high and low to the headunit) and a blue wire. On my headunit harness, according to the wiring diagram attached with the player, there is only one wire going to the can low socket and the can high is empty. Hence i attached my can low from the headunit to a blue wire from the canbus and noticed my steering wheel controls work (volume buttons and +/- track). However, the display on my dash says audio off. Also my rear view camera goes on and off (I looped the trigger wire to the reverse brown wire that exits the canbus and goes to the headunit reverse). I will try an attach a video. Does anyone know if i have made a mistake in the wiring? And does anyone have a wiring diagram for the can bus decoder (brown semi transparent box)?
Any help is very very much appreciated. Thanks tonnes.
My issue link
vimeo dot com slash 462084336
( sorry wasnt allowed to post a link)
Hello Haven,
Did you ever receive an answer? I am having a similar issue. I bought an android head unit with can bus decoder. Almost all the wiring harnesses were wrong and I had to rewire myself. the chinese supplier did not provide any wiring diagrams or pinouts, (claims they do not have any). I finally got my reverse camera, sound, and steering wheel controls working. (all come directly into head unit. The can bus decoder does not seem to be connected to the can H and Can L from the vehicle. I have the same 3 wires from can bus decoder box to android head unit. I am certain based on the other wire harnesses received that the wiring from car to can bus decoder is wrong. Can you tell me what two pins the Can H and Can L are fed to on your decoder box?
Seeing if anyone has any input here to possibly assist getting on of the new Joying Android 10 units working with the steering wheel controls on my 2008 350Z. I just cannot wrap my head around this. I don't believe my car has CANBUS but there seems to be no real concrete info. If not, I've read some conflicting items here. There's 2 plugs on the car harness that went to the stock radio that don't seem to have an equivalent to the aftermarket harness or unit. Can they be adapted somehow
There are universal adapters but I read that you have to splice and solder IN THE CAR for this **** to actually work? What a nightmare. Is there anything that I can pre-wire that just works? The AXXESS and PAC unit seem to require an engineering degree to figure out in addition to splicing the factory harness. This all seems so ridiculously difficult, there has to be a better way here.
level5music said:
Seeing if anyone has any input here to possibly assist getting on of the new Joying Android 10 units working with the steering wheel controls on my 2008 350Z. I just cannot wrap my head around this. I don't believe my car has CANBUS but there seems to be no real concrete info. If not, I've read some conflicting items here. There's 2 plugs on the car harness that went to the stock radio that don't seem to have an equivalent to the aftermarket harness or unit. Can they be adapted somehow
There are universal adapters but I read that you have to splice and solder IN THE CAR for this **** to actually work? What a nightmare. Is there anything that I can pre-wire that just works? The AXXESS and PAC unit seem to require an engineering degree to figure out in addition to splicing the factory harness. This all seems so ridiculously difficult, there has to be a better way here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is your unit, post info including MCU, joying means zip.
Yes, please post additional information. It looks like there should be an AXXESS module for your steering wheel controls. You have to indicate which trim option you have...base audio, standard audio or Bose. Here:
https://axxessinterfaces.com/products?Year=2008&Make=Nissan&Model=350Z&TrimOption[]=Base%20audio&TrimOption[]=BOSE&TrimOption[]=Standard%20Audio
You can update the trim on that page to be specific to your car. I took a quick look at the instructions and CAN-HI and CAN-LO so it looks like it's possible yours has a Canbus interface. If yours does, not sure if the AXXESS modules will help. If you don't need a canbus module for anything else, then you could possibly use the AXXESS module just for the steering wheel controls on the canbus interface.
I used an AXXESS module for my 2012 Kia Sorento as the amplifier and sound required it. It came with a steering wheel control module as well. Took a bit, but finally set it up as needed. The best thing you can get is a schematic for your car as it will show details about your steering wheel buttons and how they communicate / are wired to the head unit. Get the schematic and you can set up the buttons. Mine, however, does not have or require canbus.
marchnz said:
What is your unit, post info including MCU, joying means zip.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can't find this info anywhere. Not in the box, not in the Amazon order, not in any of the menus etc. I'm super surprised how difficult it is to find.
mastrv said:
Yes, please post additional information. It looks like there should be an AXXESS module for your steering wheel controls. You have to indicate which trim option you have...base audio, standard audio or Bose. Here:
https://axxessinterfaces.com/products?Year=2008&Make=Nissan&Model=350Z&TrimOption[]=Base%20audio&TrimOption[]=BOSE&TrimOption[]=Standard%20Audio
You can update the trim on that page to be specific to your car. I took a quick look at the instructions and CAN-HI and CAN-LO so it looks like it's possible yours has a Canbus interface. If yours does, not sure if the AXXESS modules will help. If you don't need a canbus module for anything else, then you could possibly use the AXXESS module just for the steering wheel controls on the canbus interface.
I used an AXXESS module for my 2012 Kia Sorento as the amplifier and sound required it. It came with a steering wheel control module as well. Took a bit, but finally set it up as needed. The best thing you can get is a schematic for your car as it will show details about your steering wheel buttons and how they communicate / are wired to the head unit. Get the schematic and you can set up the buttons. Mine, however, does not have or require canbus.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info, but this is nearly impossible for me to understand. The tech docs for this AXXESS make zero sense at all. I don't see any of the items pointed out in the documents on my harness for either the car or the radio. They simply do not exist. I don't get how there are zero plug and play options for this. I don't see any options for Canbus for my car either. Whenever I Google this, I only find info related to LS1 swaps (meaning those who put an older Corvette motor into their 350Z). So frustrating.
Well, let's start with a couple of questions:
Sounds like you've already installed the head unit...correct?
What is the Joying model number?
Do you have schematics for your car? If not, can you get them? These will definitively inform what wires to use. With the buttons on your steering wheel, like volume up and down, they went to your factory head unit to change the volume. This information either went directly to the factory head unit for it to interpret or went through the canbus where the factory radio also obtained this information
Did the harness you used have a can bus module? It's a small box with a lot of wires going in and out.
Whether or not you used or need a canbus module is another question. What kinds of other things did your old factory head unit do:
Did you have bluetooth phone built-in?
Rear view factory camera?
Rear factory radar?
If your factory head unit was fairly basic, then you may not need a canbus module. Please post a picture of your dash...maybe a couple with the gauges and another for the center stalk where the radio and the climate controls go...also a picture of the steering wheel buttons. These will help inform the likeliness of having or needing a canbus module.
Not sure if you know what a canbus module looks like. This page shows 5 different types/manufacturers of canbus modules:
CANBUS settings
cc2.teyes.ru
If you don't need a canbus module, you need to figure out which wires to use to connect to the Android head unit.
Thanks for your continued responses and help mastrv. I'll answer your questions as best I can:
Sounds like you've already installed the head unit - Yes. I had an older Joying unit since 2016. The same harness can be used so it was a simple swap out after the not-so-simple task of pulling the entire center console away from the car.
What is the Joying model number? - I don't see this anywhere at all. Not in About Device, not in other menus, not on the box, not on the unit, not on the Amazon order, not on the Amazon product page. I cannot find this info whatsoever, and I have looked for it thoroughly.
Do you have the schematics for your car? If not, can you get them? No, and maybe at best. I don't know what I'm looking for here. There are two plugs that went to the factory CD player that go unused on the aftermarket harness. It's absolutely mindboggling there isn't an adapter for this.
Did the harness you used have a can bus module? I don't know, but I don't see anything resembling this in my car.
Did you have bluetooth phone built-in? Nope.
Rear view factory camera? Nope.
Rear factory radar? Nope.
As for the rest, I'll need to do so over the weekend. The entire cernter console has to be removed in this car to replace the head unit. This is why it's absolutely not possible for me to do things like solder inside the vehicle, and majority of these items are tucked away. How does AXXESS or PAC expect users to install this garbage? There isn't any space for it, and they label wiring that doesn't even exist in this car! Why not just made a single adapter and be done with it?
mastrv said:
Well, let's start with a couple of questions:
Sounds like you've already installed the head unit...correct?
What is the Joying model number?
Do you have schematics for your car? If not, can you get them? These will definitively inform what wires to use. With the buttons on your steering wheel, like volume up and down, they went to your factory head unit to change the volume. This information either went directly to the factory head unit for it to interpret or went through the canbus where the factory radio also obtained this information
Did the harness you used have a can bus module? It's a small box with a lot of wires going in and out.
Whether or not you used or need a canbus module is another question. What kinds of other things did your old factory head unit do:
Did you have bluetooth phone built-in?
Rear view factory camera?
Rear factory radar?
If your factory head unit was fairly basic, then you may not need a canbus module. Please post a picture of your dash...maybe a couple with the gauges and another for the center stalk where the radio and the climate controls go...also a picture of the steering wheel buttons. These will help inform the likeliness of having or needing a canbus module.
Not sure if you know what a canbus module looks like. This page shows 5 different types/manufacturers of canbus modules:
CANBUS settings
cc2.teyes.ru
If you don't need a canbus module, you need to figure out which wires to use to connect to the Android head unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From the information you've provided, it's most likely that you don't need a canbus at all...especially since your old unit didn't have one.
The only thing you're concerned about is the steering wheel controls, right?
Only thing that needs to be determined is which wires to be used for the steering wheel controls.
OK. I think I've found some good info for your model. The info doesn't have 2008 but it's for a 2007 and I think the 2008 is the same. This has information about the wires to use from the factory harness that connected to the old stereo:
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/forced-induction/360447d1390787670-finally-repurpose-your-steering-wheel-buttons-for-forced-induction-infiniti350zradiobuttonboxgeneralinstallguider1-7.pdf
It's for something called a Radio Button Box for racing applications. The install details the wires to use. On pages 2 and 3 it shows a piece of a schematic and identifies wires for Remote Control A, Remote Control B and Remote Control Ground. These would directly attach to Key1 and Key2 on the Android Head unit and any ground. On page 3 it also talks about how to test measure with a multi-meter to make sure these are the correct wires. The wires are in M39 connector:
Remote Control A is pin 22 and coloured R/G, Red and Green
Remote Control B is pin 23 and coloured OR, Orange
Remote Control Ground is pin 25 Y, Yellow
There is also a picture of the connector and it shows the wires from back and front. I think it shows the connector for an Infiniti G35, which is identical to the 350Z except for the wire colours.
I think you may not need any module and can connect those directly to the Android head unit...and then use the steering wheel control app to map them as you like.
FYI, the picture of the steering wheel controls includes a rocker for Volume up/down, buttons for Mode beside a Power button and a Prev/Next rocker.
FYI, the my350z site has much information and there is an Audio/Video section:
Audio & Video - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion
Audio & Video - 350Z Mobile entertainment and other electronics
my350z.com
mastrv said:
From the information you've provided, it's most likely that you don't need a canbus at all...especially since your old unit didn't have one.
The only thing you're concerned about is the steering wheel controls, right?
Only thing that needs to be determined is which wires to be used for the steering wheel controls.
OK. I think I've found some good info for your model. The info doesn't have 2008 but it's for a 2007 and I think the 2008 is the same. This has information about the wires to use from the factory harness that connected to the old stereo:
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/forced-induction/360447d1390787670-finally-repurpose-your-steering-wheel-buttons-for-forced-induction-infiniti350zradiobuttonboxgeneralinstallguider1-7.pdf
It's for something called a Radio Button Box for racing applications. The install details the wires to use. On pages 2 and 3 it shows a piece of a schematic and identifies wires for Remote Control A, Remote Control B and Remote Control Ground. These would directly attach to Key1 and Key2 on the Android Head unit and any ground. On page 3 it also talks about how to test measure with a multi-meter to make sure these are the correct wires. The wires are in M39 connector:
Remote Control A is pin 22 and coloured R/G, Red and Green
Remote Control B is pin 23 and coloured OR, Orange
Remote Control Ground is pin 25 Y, Yellow
There is also a picture of the connector and it shows the wires from back and front. I think it shows the connector for an Infiniti G35, which is identical to the 350Z except for the wire colours.
I think you may not need any module and can connect those directly to the Android head unit...and then use the steering wheel control app to map them as you like.
FYI, the picture of the steering wheel controls includes a rocker for Volume up/down, buttons for Mode beside a Power button and a Prev/Next rocker.
FYI, the my350z site has much information and there is an Audio/Video section:
Audio & Video - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion
Audio & Video - 350Z Mobile entertainment and other electronics
my350z.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks again mastvr! Still really confused on this. So, my harness to the Joying unit has a pink Key 1 and brown Key 2 wires. What I don't get here is how I'm connecting to the car here. Soldering is pretty much off the table. I'm also very leary of cutting anything factory in the vehicle, although I guess if I HAVE to, maybe I would. My apprehension here is that if I cut something, and it's wrong, I'm going to end up with a hacked up factory harness that I neither have the skills, space, equipment or otherwise know-how to fix. That's why I sincerely wish there was something I could just adapt in a plug-and-play fashion. So completely frustrated with this.
If you don't have a connector for the plug in the link I provided, you can always use a t-tap connector so you don't have to cut it...or maybe there's some module you can use.
Anyway, there's enough info to make sure those are the correct wires. So, good luck with the rest.