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There is a lot of information floating around about the factory cable but there doesn't seem to be a thread dedicated to the topic. I bricked my device today so I need to make a factory cable. I tried making a cable but I f'd up the soldering job so I am awaiting delivery of a breakout board. I just wanted to gather some information here on the topic because there seem to be a lot of bricks popping up around here. So for now I am going to post what I know and ask a few questions here and there so that I can get my cable done and hopefully help someone out along the way.
When I started messing around with soldering a jumper from pin 1 to pin 4 i melted the connector, blah, blah, anyway, I screwed it up. Hopefully I will have more luck with the breakout (see below).
From what I understand, using the cable is a simple a plugging it in so I guess that part is self explanatory for now.
I got most of my information about the cable and how to make it from here. Lots of good info with pics and diagrams.
Someone in these forums recomended using this breakout board. I ordered 2 of them today so I will let you guys know how it goes when they get here.
My one big question is about the the jumper from pin 1 to pin 4; I read that some people are using a resister and I am unclear as to where the resister is being used and the specs of the resister. Please enlighten me
I might add some pics to this thread just for fun. If you have built this cable please jump in a post any information that might help.
Thanks
BTW-You can buy a cable here but I have yet to see them listed as "in stock"
I'm interesting to how correctly build this cable...
I simply used a jumper wire. No resistor used. I hear a 1k can be used as a precaution, but is not necessary. Without the resistor, it works like a champ. I turned off the Kindle, Plugged in the "Factory cable", and it went directly into fastboot.
PIN out is as follows on the SparkFun Breakout board:
VCC: RED
D-: White
D+: Green
ID: Jumper RED
GND: Black
MayfairDROID said:
I simply used a jumper wire. No resistor used. I hear a 1k can be used as a precaution, but is not necessary. Without the resistor, it works like a champ. I turned off the Kindle, Plugged in the "Factory cable", and it went directly into fastboot.
PIN out is as follows on the SparkFun Breakout board:
VCC: RED
D-: White
D+: Green
ID: Jumper RED
GND: Black
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a ton! I was looking confirmation that this wod work without a registered.
So I assume you fixed you device or accomplished whatever it was that you where trying to do?
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
hahaha...Nope I didn't have anything wrong, but before I went modding, I wanted to be sure I could get into FastBoot if I messed something up. I have tested and made sure that I had Fastboot commands, so I know it works.
SikYou said:
There is a lot of information floating around about the factory cable but there doesn't seem to be a thread dedicated to the topic. I bricked my device today so I need to make a factory cable. I tried making a cable but I f'd up the soldering job so I am awaiting delivery of a breakout board. I just wanted to gather some information here on the topic because there seem to be a lot of bricks popping up around here. So for now I am going to post what I know and ask a few questions here and there so that I can get my cable done and hopefully help someone out along the way.
When I started messing around with soldering a jumper from pin 1 to pin 4 i melted the connector, blah, blah, anyway, I screwed it up. Hopefully I will have more luck with the breakout (see below).
From what I understand, using the cable is a simple a plugging it in so I guess that part is self explanatory for now.
I got most of my information about the cable and how to make it from here. Lots of good info with pics and diagrams.
Someone in these forums recomended using this breakout board. I ordered 2 of them today so I will let you guys know how it goes when they get here.
My one big question is about the the jumper from pin 1 to pin 4; I read that some people are using a resister and I am unclear as to where the resister is being used and the specs of the resister. Please enlighten me
I might add some pics to this thread just for fun. If you have built this cable please jump in a post any information that might help.
Thanks
BTW-You can buy a cable here but I have yet to see them listed as "in stock"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A resistor is the "safe" route. Mine doesn't have one at all and woks flawlessly. You just need a resistor large enough to simulate a short to the device. I imagine anything above 250k would be more than enough.
But as I said before I have used mine more than most people probably have while testing TWRP, I don't have a resistor and it works fine.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
Was just thinking. If you used a female breakout board with a male breakout board you could essentially ground the male boards ground to the male boards vcc. And the female boards ground to the male boards ground as well.
This way you could leave vcc hanging (capped of course) from the female source (computer) side.
Aditionally you could put in a dual pole switch between ground from the the target (kindle side) and vcc on the target side that would toggle between ground on the target side and vcc on the source side. Essentially eliminating the need for two cables and letting you switch from a factory cable to a normal cable with the flip of a button.
Hope this sparks some good conversation .
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
I built one with the sparkfun breakout board. Piece of cake if you have some soldering skillz. You might melt something or make a mess if you haven't soldered anything before so I recommend practicing on something else first and/or watching some "how to solder" youtubes.
I configured mine with a female header in the pin 4 location, and a 400 ohm resistor coming off of pin 1. If I want to fastboot, I put the free end of the resistor into the female header. To use the cable like an ordinary USB cable, I just pull the free end back out. It's kinda nice to use the same cable for everything.
RE: resistor value. Since any value up to 1K ohm reportedly works, I thought I might as well use one vs just running a direct short. The higher the value of your resistor, the greater the chances that it won't work though. I used the one I did because it was less than 1K ohm, I had it on hand, and it's a higher wattage resistor with thicker wire that fits nicely in the female header.
FWIW, YMMV.
pyrostic said:
Was just thinking. If you used a female breakout board with a male breakout board you could essentially ground the male boards ground to the male boards vcc. And the female boards ground to the male boards ground as well.
This way you could leave vcc hanging (capped of course) from the female source (computer) side.
Hope this sparks some good conversation .
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This will NOT work, as the female breakout boards from Sparkfun does NOT have a breakout trace for pin 4 present. Only the male breakout boards have all 5 pins/traces needed. I've purchased hundreds of both and sold thousands of download mode JIG's for Samsung phones, and was forced to modify the female breakout boards to include a pin 4 trace for special projects of mine. I do not know if they since added the trace or not and its been over a year now since I asked for this feature.
Is there even a market for these factory cables?
EDIT: I know this post used to be how to get a cable from me, but I ran out of the actual cables and never replaced them. With only about one request per week or month I decided to stop stocking the cables. I have everything else though (new micro ends etc) to build a professional one if you want to send a old cable to me.
SkOrPn said:
This will NOT work, as the female breakout boards from Sparkfun does NOT have a breakout trace for pin 4 present. Only the male breakout boards have all 5 pins/traces needed. I've purchased hundreds of both and sold over 1300 download mode JIG's for Samsung phones, and was forced to modify the female breakout boards to include a pin 4 trace for special projects of mine. I do not know if they since added the trace or not and its been over a year now since I asked for this feature.
On the other hand, if there was a market for it, I could manufacture special mini to micro data/charger adapters made specifically for this task. But the user would still need a standard mini usb data cable with all 5 pins/wires present (everyone should have one lying around somewhere).
Something like this could be purchased in bulk and then modified on demand. These are easily taken apart and reassembled. I do this daily 7 days a week so its easy for me.
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/394616755/Mini_USB_to_Micro_Adapter_Charger.html
Is there even a market for these though, is my question?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably not much of a market. I think most of us are attempting to make our own. I'm sure you could sell a few but I wouldn't quit your day job ;-)
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
Deleted
SkOrPn said:
Not really concerned with making money as opposed to just helping. I sell JIG's at only $3.95 plus s&h which just barely covers my cost of materials, so I'm not in it for the money (it never even crossed my mind to try and make money off this stuff). Some people can not make things like this to save their lives, in fact most people can't and that's where a talented ex-electronics tech like myself comes in.
Below are the JIG's I make... Just to show how serious I get with quality and design. They are filled with SureBonder PDR glue, the worlds strongest hot glue according to the glue manufacturers, and I even went as far as logo them. I am thinking something along the lines of the same thing with the Factory Adapter (just without the lanyard). I could make 50 of them and list them on ebay for what I mentioned above and only $2 s&h. But, ONLY if I knew that they might sell. I'm willing to break even, but not lose money... And oh, I'm unemployed at the moment so I have plenty of time on my hands and every specialty tool you can think of...
I'm just bored and love helping people save their devices.... My ebay ratings can contest to that... ;-)
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I would buy 1
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
Nice. Mine looks positively nasty (but it works). What I did was buy a cheap 8" usb micro male to usb micro female adapter, cut it in half, stripped the wires back, and twisted them back together. Then simply jumpered the two wires together and taped the whole mess up. The hardest part was getting a meter on the usb micro pins. Had to clip my meter leads to a needle to get to them. Had to wear my glasses too. They are really small and close together.
---------- Post added at 10:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:53 PM ----------
Oh, and I forgot to point out that the reason for using the usb micro male to female cable is that you are insured of a wire on pin 4 with this approach, rather than an unsoldered pin to test your soldering skills. You will of course still need a micro to the normal usb cable to go from this to your pc, but I already had that on hand.
Considering the number of kindle fires that have sold, I bet you could easily sell 50 of those cables on ebay.
I'd probably buy one even though I've already made my own. Your's look really nice!
teookie said:
Considering the number of kindle fires that have sold, I bet you could easily sell 50 of those cables on ebay.
I'd probably buy one even though I've already made my own. Your's look really nice!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, but the pictures I posted are of my Samsung Download Mode JIG's, they are NOT Motorola Factory jig's, lol... I ONLY posted pics of my Samsung jig's to show how dedicated I am to making quality stuff for us device flashing junkies. Factory Adapters would not look anything like what I posted, they would just be a Mini to Micro usb adapter with the proper short from pin 1 to 4 (user would have to supply their own standard cable, which most people already have). I have NOT sourced any adapters yet, but I have sent emails to some of my suppliers asking about them. No replies as of yet... I did find a few cables but I do not like cutting products up, I instead like making something that looks like it was produced on a assembly line, lol. Doing the mod to an adapter just seems smarter, as the end result is a clean functional product without any visible damage.
1. I would need to source adapters that are either already un-assembled.
2. Or, can easily be un-assembled and re-assembled.
3. Fairly affordable, 35-50 cents each or something close to.
4. And, be purchased in really small quantities such as lots of 50 to start out with.
5. And most importantly, they must have all 5 pins/wires. MANY adapters do not have all 5 pins on the female side, as pin #4 is simply not needed for most functions. This is why I need to source them first so I can ask questions in regards to pin #4. If the supplier guarantees pin 4 is present on both sides of the adapter, then I can move forward on this product.
I have quite a few emails and PM's for this item already though. Still not convinced its worth it though. How many Kindle Fires have been sold? And how many people actually modify or flash them? lol
EDIT: Let me get this straight. If I try to flash my Kindle Fire and I brick it, I would need a factory cable in order to restore it to functional?
I'd definitely grab one! I don't think you'll have any problem selling out of 50.
Sent from my Kindle Fire using xda premium
SkOrPn said:
Thanks, but the pictures I posted are of my Samsung Download Mode JIG's, they are NOT Motorola Factory jig's, lol... I ONLY posted pics of my Samsung jig's to show how dedicated I am to making quality stuff for us device flashing junkies. Factory Adapters would not look anything like what I posted, they would just be a Mini to Micro usb adapter with the proper short from pin 1 to 4 (user would have to supply their own standard cable, which most people already have). I have NOT sourced any adapters yet, but I have sent emails to some of my suppliers asking about them. No replies as of yet... I did find a few cables but I do not like cutting products up, I instead like making something that looks like it was produced on a assembly line, lol. Doing the mod to an adapter just seems smarter, as the end result is a clean functional product without any visible damage.
1. I would need to source adapters that are either already un-assembled.
2. Or, can easily be un-assembled and re-assembled.
3. Fairly affordable, 35-50 cents each or something close to.
4. And, be purchased in really small quantities such as lots of 50 to start out with.
5. And most importantly, they must have all 5 pins/wires. MANY adapters do not have all 5 pins on the female side, as pin #4 is simply not needed for most functions. This is why I need to source them first so I can ask questions in regards to pin #4. If the supplier guarantees pin 4 is present on both sides of the adapter, then I can move forward on this product.
I have quite a few emails and PM's for this item already though. Still not convinced its worth it though. How many Kindle Fires have been sold? And how many people actually modify or flash them? lol
EDIT: Let me get this straight. If I try to flash my Kindle Fire and I brick it, I would need a factory cable in order to restore it to functional?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In many cases people are able to restore a bricked kindle because the Factory cable allows one to boot in to fastboot and repair the system or do a factory reset or whatever needs to be done based on what the brick was caused by.
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
SkOrPn said:
But, ONLY if I knew that they might sell.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd buy one.
I feel confused. Typical someone says factory to describe an item that comes with a product when you buy it vs. aftermarket. Are you saying that the cable that comes with the fire is somehow special and different from a regular micro USB cable?
Sent from my HTC Flyer P512 using Tapatalk
bsoplinger said:
I feel confused. Typical someone says factory to describe an item that comes with a product when you buy it vs. aftermarket. Are you saying that the cable that comes with the fire is somehow special and different from a regular micro USB cable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a special cable that puts the device into fastboot mode when the device is otherwise locked up. It is not a normal cable you would get or use that would come with the device or be orderable from the company. It has only one purpose and would not be used again.
I'm going to show you how to make a USB charger where you can bring along with you almost everywhere. There are millions of ways to make one with various brains, ranging from the super cheap 7805s to insanely expensive IC (Integrated Circuit, not Insane C*cks) with awesome mind controlling thingies. I'm only going to show here 2 of the most popular implementations; The 78xx way and the MAX756 (Some TI or LT ICs are also viable alternatives) way. The 78xx way is by far the easiest and cheapest way (I can buy in bulk for a few cents a piece) and coupled with the battery holder and a fancy box to store it, it won't cost you more than $2 (Or $10 if you're buying from Radioshack or can't find the right guy to buy from). However, they drink your battery juice like a dehydrated guy drinks water (really!) and in the long run, it will be more expensive to maintain than the MAX756 method. However if you suck at soldering or are stuck with a lousy soldering iron (like me for now) you're better off using the 78xx method because I've fried more MAX756s with my blunt tip more times than you care to count (At that time, I ordered the wrong part and was stuck with 30 of the super tiny SoC chips which were an extreme pain in the a*se to solder with a fat iron). However, no matter what the cost is, I'm sure you will find it very useful especially in certain situations. Scoff at your friends while you are happily playing GTA3 on your power-hungry tablet while they bang theirs on the table because their battery's flat! Anyway, back to the topic, you can read up on the 78xx series here.
NOTE: THIS IS STILL CONSIDERED WIP WHILE I FINISH THE PROJECT AND UPLOAD THE IMAGES.
78xx METHOD
Ok, first off, you must choose what kind of 78xx to use. If you're powering a typical Android phone or iPhone you'll need 1A of power. You can tell the difference by looking at its size. the 500mA version will be quite tiny like your average sized LED, whereas the 1A version will be significantly bigger. However, if you are gonna be using the charger for a tablet such as the Touchpad or Galaxy Tab, you'll need to bring out the big guns. That's where the 78s05 comes in. It's 2A instead of 1A. However, (based on personal experience) you need more batteries connected in parallel (+ to +, - to -) for more combined amperage otherwise the 78s05 won't be able to power your tablet properly. Furthermore, as it outputs a constant stream of 2A, your typical phone likely won't accept the humungous amounts of current (believe me, I've tried). So you have to decide what you have to power at this stage.
...
...
Once you've decided what 78xx you choose to use, you'll also need:
-USB Female connector (Or MicroUSB Male port if you're feeling lucky). I ripped mine off a USB hub
-1-3 9V adapters (6AA Battery holder will suffice if you're a AA fanatic) as 9V batteries typically have very little power output)
-A fancy box
-Schottky diode model 1N5817 (For the tabloid version use ZHCS2000); a few just to be safe (Read about it here; its optional if you're feeling lucky )
--The function of the Schottky diode here is like a one-way road. The current can only flow in 1 direction and not the other direction to the end of your device.. I've damaged a HD2 with a faulty 7805 when the current went the opposite direction.
--NOTE: DON'T USE TOO MANY OF THOSE DIODES because each one loses a bit of current and soon you'll have not enough power to power your device..
Max756 method
reserved for later
Signing off
reserved for later
Great idea, gonna try it!
From my fingers to your eyez
going to try it thanks for the guide
Done something similiar few weeks ago.
Based on MAX608, it's very easy to solder, as it's huge DIP package.
Complete schematic, it also contains 5.1V Zener Diode (overvoltage protection)
I don't remember Schottky and transistor parameters, these can be taken from datasheet.
Powered from 2 1.5V AA cells works fine. That set of 4 resistors on USB D- and D+ pins is for iPods and iPhones to enable charging at all in 0.5A mode.
Rebellos said:
Done something similiar few weeks ago.
Based on MAX608, it's very easy to solder, as it's huge DIP package.
Complete schematic, it also contains 5.1V Zener Diode (overvoltage protection)
I don't remember Schottky and transistor parameters, these can be taken from datasheet.
Powered from 2 1.5V AA cells works fine. That set of 4 resistors on USB D- and D+ pins is for iPods and iPhones to enable charging at all in 0.5A mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm.. I think some of the diodes might not be necessary.. Or maybe it's just the different ICs. Will post up the schematics when I have the time. Currently busy..
SGA-Sean said:
going to try it thanks for the guide
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol.. I haven't even started documenting the project yet..
watching...
go on
arikyeo said:
Hmm.. I think some of the diodes might not be necessary.. Or maybe it's just the different ICs. Will post up the schematics when I have the time. Currently busy..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, 5.1V Zener is there - its D2 (not necessary, just in case), also LED is just there to signal that's ON.
AFAIM Schottky is higly recommended in datasheet to lower ripple, haven't got oscilloscope yet to see what's the difference.
Be sure you check your datasheets. It only takes a very limited amount of circuitry to control the current throughput of any of the 78X05X models, and they spec them at 5% tolerance levels or less for regulation, so no output circuitry is needed beyond a basic cutoff.
Sorry for my absence the past few days.. Have been extremely busy with personal stuff including arguing with the bespoke tailor that she has misjudged my new $600 suit's khaki colour for the grey I originally wanted.. &#&$***#$
Anyway once I make a trip down to purchase the parts I will finish documenting this. Thanks for your patience..
thanks, it really help me in travel
This is actually very practical and can be done, given you have the right materials, basic electricity knowledge, and a rigged out hobby box to seal the components. I managed to construct a somewhat functional external battery for my iPhone 4 and besides and occasional d/cs, it served it's job.
If you like it easy and energy efficient you can use a "TRACOPOWER - TSR 1-2450" switching DC/DC converter.
- Input Voltage: 6.5V to 36V
- Output Voltage: 5.0V
- Output Current: 1A
- Up to 96 % efficiency
– No heat-sink required
- SIP-package fits existing TO-220 footprint
- Built in filter capacitors
- Short circuit protection
It is not as cheap as an 7805 (farnell.com 7.70€) but if you charge with a battery you don´t need any further circuit.
Just connect battery to input, output to USB+ and GND like 7805.
Normally your phone should start charging without any circuit to D+, D- (I checked my HD2 does).
Car-bon said:
If you like it easy and energy efficient you can use a "TRACOPOWER - TSR 1-2450" switching DC/DC converter.
- Input Voltage: 6.5V to 36V
- Output Voltage: 5.0V
- Output Current: 1A
- Up to 96 % efficiency
– No heat-sink required
- SIP-package fits existing TO-220 footprint
- Built in filter capacitors
- Short circuit protection
It is not as cheap as an 7805 (farnell.com 7.70€) but if you charge with a battery you don´t need any further circuit.
Just connect battery to input, output to USB+ and GND like 7805.
Normally your phone should start charging without any circuit to D+, D- (I checked my HD2 does).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I could not find this part number originally, so I pointed out the limiting capabilities of the 7805 series, but anyone that can get one of these and goes the 7805 route anyway is retarted! lol. Unless you just want to do it for fun, which lets face it, is 95% of the reason anyone would do this anyway! replacement batteries are like $5 of amazon for pretty much any device!
may be a better idea for cosidaration
you may use some power transistor with base voltage pulled to 5.1v using a 5.1 v zener diode, and that will give u a 5 v at o/p. and be sure to use a transistor which can handle min of 12v i/p and an o/p current of 2 or more amps. that will reduce the various voltage drops by using lots of components, and also less i/p voltage is required. like 5.5-6v i/p for 5 v o/p.
send from my hd2 @ dorimanx v.3.0.0.rom,with 2way rec kernal.
Car-bon said:
If you like it easy and energy efficient you can use a "TRACOPOWER - TSR 1-2450" switching DC/DC converter.
- Input Voltage: 6.5V to 36V
- Output Voltage: 5.0V
- Output Current: 1A
- Up to 96 % efficiency
– No heat-sink required
- SIP-package fits existing TO-220 footprint
- Built in filter capacitors
- Short circuit protection
It is not as cheap as an 7805 (farnell.com 7.70€) but if you charge with a battery you don´t need any further circuit.
Just connect battery to input, output to USB+ and GND like 7805.
Normally your phone should start charging without any circuit to D+, D- (I checked my HD2 does).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I've seen something similar around that costs a whopping 15 quid (even though the pound is decreasing in value...........) which translates to about $30 in Singapore dollars. Expensive and impractical for the most part.. If you do breakdown the parts within and the cost I think it'll amount to 10x cheaper..
This is definitely not a bad idea, and certainly easy to make. You can also make it as cheap or expensive as you like, from automated current regulation, battery status LEDs, multiple phones at once, Solar-Power, Nuclear-Reactor power, etc.
But I would recommend 3 1.5 v batteries in a holder, connected to a current regulator (Just in-case. You wouldn't want your precious phone to go up in a poof of smoke now, would you? Five dollars now, or Five hundred dollars later.), then some sort of way to connect to your phone (Either a Female USB connector, or if you want to make it specifically for your phone, get the right type Male USB connector for it).
I would also recommend Heat-Shrink tubing, Solder, and Painters tape (Like electrical tape, except it actually sticks to the wires.) Hot glue might also come in handy.
1. I looked at ifixit internal images for the Apple TV and noticed that the board has test points, figured there may be a chance to JTAG it.
2. I wanted to check if Apple is using JTAG or SWD (serial wire debug) as ARM supports both. A quick search on jobs.apple.com reveals that Apple only uses JTAG/ICE and not Serial Wire Debug (no mention of it in the job descriptions). They talk about board level OS testing, so they do final testing in house after the board is fully manufactured. It seems they use cadence concept/allegro
3. I picked up ATV3 at Fry's this this morning and opened it, I did find space for two connectors
4. A 10 pin connector looks like ARM 10-PIN JTAG connector - (Mfgr: Don Connex P/N: C42 or Samtec P/N: SHF-105-01-L-D-TH). hxxp://xxx.samtec.com/ftppub/pdf/FTSH_SMT.PDF See attached picture: ATV3_J5101.jpg
5. A 30 pin FFC FPC ribbon cable connector. See attached picture: ATV3_J7301.jpg
I haven't traced the pins yet, but one them has to have JTAG. I will post my findings, but wanted to see if xda developers is the right forum or is there another place?
Another interest is that A5 is also in iphone 5. As the software bugs are patched, we may have only left with hardware hack to jailbreak. Hoping we can load a patched boot loader. Plus I am kinda old school developer hint: dms3/HU/S00/powersync
nice ur idea , is it apple will left their chip Jtag points opened ? get schematic and check if jtag is opened ..
early devices iDevices are all jtag closed like there :
Schematics? It's gonna be super hard to find those for the new devices
The difference between apple tv and iphone/ipod is that apple tv has PCB pads for actual connectors, the others only have test pads for board verification in the factory.
Based on my experience the solder pad lay out is a standard 30pin FPC.
Another thought is that the J7301 the 30pin connector could also be the standard IPOD connector as I have seen 30pin (single row ) connectors - but most of them have thru hole solder mounts. Anyone care to comment?
rgdeja said:
Schematics? It's gonna be super hard to find those for the new devices
The difference between apple tv and iphone/ipod is that apple tv has PCB pads for actual connectors, the others only have test pads for board verification in the factory.
Based on my experience the solder pad lay out is a standard 30pin FPC.
Another thought is that the J7301 the 30pin connector could also be the standard IPOD connector as I have seen 30pin (single row ) connectors - but most of them have thru hole solder mounts. Anyone care to comment?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the J7301 connector why dont you compare the pinouts to see if the gnd matches up to the board one,
darkspr1te
darkspr1te said:
On the J7301 connector why dont you compare the pinouts to see if the gnd matches up to the board one,
darkspr1te
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Already did, they dont match at all.
Booloader Discussion - Comments requested
Does any one know if Apple actually Rom Masked the bootrom on silicon of A5/A6 or just the keys and or key hash?
Based on my experience, some (usually dumb and to save on cost) chipset vendors will have an 'i2c like back door' and then load the ROM instead of actually MASKing it during fab. After the wafer is tested and passed verification, 'ROM MASK' is loaded then wafer is sent for packaging, If the left hand doesn't talk to the right hand, then these 'back door pads' on the wafer are wire bonded and the data sheet reflects as "reserved or test" PINs.
Also, the silicon is very expensive to have full ROM or public key to be masked in silicon.
Has anyone 'de-capped' an A5/A6 to find out unused pads on the silicon wafer?
I've got two Simple Touches with loose charging ports. I was as careful as I could be for years, but eventually the not-very-durable attachments broke and they are unusable.
I've taken one of the Nooks apart, but can't find any numbers on the port or the board, or specs on the details of the port to buy some more. So far the best I've come up with is: Micro USB port type B, female, 5-pin, 4-leg. The pics I've found on these show variability of the leg shape and the spacing, and whether the bevel on the male connector faces up or down relative to the legs.
Can anyone help me with further specs for these ports or where to get them? I've spent hours researching this (right now I have more time than money) and no luck so far. My hope is I can mess around with a friend's hot air soldering station and get at least one of these to work again. And beef up the attachment so it doesn't break again.
Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
Bake
WWBaker said:
I've got two Simple Touches with loose charging ports. I was as careful as I could be for years, but eventually the not-very-durable attachments broke and they are unusable.
I've taken one of the Nooks apart, but can't find any numbers on the port or the board, or specs on the details of the port to buy some more. So far the best I've come up with is: Micro USB port type B, female, 5-pin, 4-leg. The pics I've found on these show variability of the leg shape and the spacing, and whether the bevel on the male connector faces up or down relative to the legs.
Can anyone help me with further specs for these ports or where to get them? I've spent hours researching this (right now I have more time than money) and no luck so far. My hope is I can mess around with a friend's hot air soldering station and get at least one of these to work again. And beef up the attachment so it doesn't break again.
Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
QUOTE}
Sorry to hear about your nook problem.
I am not a technician but the micro Usb port is a pretty common one, So I think a common Micro USB port will work
If you can please contact a professional technician .They will do the fix quickly. If not post this in mobileread forum
(http://www.mobileread.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=231) The technical genius in here seems to absent
these days.
Check out these ebay links.
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/micro-usb-connector
You can contact the sellers with your orginal port(picture of the port) and get verified. Also check local phone
hardware sellers or even Amazon.com.
Wish you all the best.
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Thanks. I couldn't keep the link I had to the different variations on the 4-leg placement (because I'm new) but I originally had a similar link included. There doesn't seem to be a way to clarify what exactly matches the Nook port except maybe as you say, with ultra close-up pictures. Ebay had a bit more detail in general than Amazon, but still unable to narrow it down sufficiently. There were probably ten different types that were close-but-no-cigar.
I did contact a local cell phone repair place that gets raves for replacing phone ports, but they won't do a Nook, and if it cost more than $20 or 30 wouldn't be worth it. I also have spent hours sifting thru stuff on the mobilereads site (it's how I felt able to take one of the Nooks apart and start messing around) which has some great details, but not this exact one.
Hay, don't be so concerned about this port.
I personally use 3 phones and my sister got 2 phones.
So we use different mini Usb cables to charge or transfer files to our devices.
But we never had problems.
So the lesson is most of the devices use same or identical mini usb ports.
Therefore just use the most common port and just experiment.I know Nook use safty steps to prevent short circuits. So don't be so worried but be careful with the soldering.
(Use the ebay sellers to get the port you want.Most of them are very helpful.)
Best Regards
WWBaker said:
Thanks. I couldn't keep the link I had to the different variations on the 4-leg placement (because I'm new) but I originally had a similar link included. There doesn't seem to be a way to clarify what exactly matches the Nook port except maybe as you say, with ultra close-up pictures. Ebay had a bit more detail in general than Amazon, but still unable to narrow it down sufficiently. There were probably ten different types that were close-but-no-cigar.
I did contact a local cell phone repair place that gets raves for replacing phone ports, but they won't do a Nook, and if it cost more than $20 or 30 wouldn't be worth it. I also have spent hours sifting thru stuff on the mobilereads site (it's how I felt able to take one of the Nooks apart and start messing around) which has some great details, but not this exact one.
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There is a place in San Diego that advertises NST repairs (among others), including the micro USB port. Obviously they are in the repair business, but you might get lucky if you contact them. Maybe they can give you specs on the port. Heck, since they are in SD, they might even be able to give you a Mouser part number!
Try searching for the connectors on mouser.com or the like. You should be able to get a good description of the dimensions from the datasheets. You can order in quantities as low as one.
So my current battery is ****ed and needs replacement. I've tried the local repair shop but their suppliers don't have any axon7 parts.
I've looked online myself and found various places with parts in stock but unsure what parts work with my model (A2017G) and what places to really trust.
This battery seems like it should work although it's from a third party.
What's more confusing is where to source other parts, particularly USB port, headphone port and fingerprint sensor.
MrGodMan said:
So my current battery is ****ed and needs replacement. I've tried the local repair shop but their suppliers don't have any axon7 parts.
I've looked online myself and found various places with parts in stock but unsure what parts work with my model (A2017G) and what places to really trust.
This battery seems like it should work although it's from a third party.
What's more confusing is where to source other parts, particularly USB port, headphone port and fingerprint sensor.
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the fp sensor should work from any model - not like you're gonna break it that easily, nobody here mentioned ever breaking it. Just don't break the cable
Battery too, any will work, just don't get the 3650 mAh ones, they are bottom of the barrel and may even have less than 3000 mAh. The 5 dollar batteries come with expected capacity and all too (about 3200 mAh). the typical capacity of the batteries is 3140, but the range is between 3000 and 3250 i think
headphone jack? It's soldered to the board. Not that it's easy to break anyways
And broken USB means daughterboard change, but the radio stuff is on the daughterboard too. You need to get the daughterboard that corresponds to your phone model otherwise you'll lose radio connectivity entirely
Displays are interchangeable