I'm going to show you how to make a USB charger where you can bring along with you almost everywhere. There are millions of ways to make one with various brains, ranging from the super cheap 7805s to insanely expensive IC (Integrated Circuit, not Insane C*cks) with awesome mind controlling thingies. I'm only going to show here 2 of the most popular implementations; The 78xx way and the MAX756 (Some TI or LT ICs are also viable alternatives) way. The 78xx way is by far the easiest and cheapest way (I can buy in bulk for a few cents a piece) and coupled with the battery holder and a fancy box to store it, it won't cost you more than $2 (Or $10 if you're buying from Radioshack or can't find the right guy to buy from). However, they drink your battery juice like a dehydrated guy drinks water (really!) and in the long run, it will be more expensive to maintain than the MAX756 method. However if you suck at soldering or are stuck with a lousy soldering iron (like me for now) you're better off using the 78xx method because I've fried more MAX756s with my blunt tip more times than you care to count (At that time, I ordered the wrong part and was stuck with 30 of the super tiny SoC chips which were an extreme pain in the a*se to solder with a fat iron). However, no matter what the cost is, I'm sure you will find it very useful especially in certain situations. Scoff at your friends while you are happily playing GTA3 on your power-hungry tablet while they bang theirs on the table because their battery's flat! Anyway, back to the topic, you can read up on the 78xx series here.
NOTE: THIS IS STILL CONSIDERED WIP WHILE I FINISH THE PROJECT AND UPLOAD THE IMAGES.
78xx METHOD
Ok, first off, you must choose what kind of 78xx to use. If you're powering a typical Android phone or iPhone you'll need 1A of power. You can tell the difference by looking at its size. the 500mA version will be quite tiny like your average sized LED, whereas the 1A version will be significantly bigger. However, if you are gonna be using the charger for a tablet such as the Touchpad or Galaxy Tab, you'll need to bring out the big guns. That's where the 78s05 comes in. It's 2A instead of 1A. However, (based on personal experience) you need more batteries connected in parallel (+ to +, - to -) for more combined amperage otherwise the 78s05 won't be able to power your tablet properly. Furthermore, as it outputs a constant stream of 2A, your typical phone likely won't accept the humungous amounts of current (believe me, I've tried). So you have to decide what you have to power at this stage.
...
...
Once you've decided what 78xx you choose to use, you'll also need:
-USB Female connector (Or MicroUSB Male port if you're feeling lucky). I ripped mine off a USB hub
-1-3 9V adapters (6AA Battery holder will suffice if you're a AA fanatic) as 9V batteries typically have very little power output)
-A fancy box
-Schottky diode model 1N5817 (For the tabloid version use ZHCS2000); a few just to be safe (Read about it here; its optional if you're feeling lucky )
--The function of the Schottky diode here is like a one-way road. The current can only flow in 1 direction and not the other direction to the end of your device.. I've damaged a HD2 with a faulty 7805 when the current went the opposite direction.
--NOTE: DON'T USE TOO MANY OF THOSE DIODES because each one loses a bit of current and soon you'll have not enough power to power your device..
Max756 method
reserved for later
Signing off
reserved for later
Great idea, gonna try it!
From my fingers to your eyez
going to try it thanks for the guide
Done something similiar few weeks ago.
Based on MAX608, it's very easy to solder, as it's huge DIP package.
Complete schematic, it also contains 5.1V Zener Diode (overvoltage protection)
I don't remember Schottky and transistor parameters, these can be taken from datasheet.
Powered from 2 1.5V AA cells works fine. That set of 4 resistors on USB D- and D+ pins is for iPods and iPhones to enable charging at all in 0.5A mode.
Rebellos said:
Done something similiar few weeks ago.
Based on MAX608, it's very easy to solder, as it's huge DIP package.
Complete schematic, it also contains 5.1V Zener Diode (overvoltage protection)
I don't remember Schottky and transistor parameters, these can be taken from datasheet.
Powered from 2 1.5V AA cells works fine. That set of 4 resistors on USB D- and D+ pins is for iPods and iPhones to enable charging at all in 0.5A mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm.. I think some of the diodes might not be necessary.. Or maybe it's just the different ICs. Will post up the schematics when I have the time. Currently busy..
SGA-Sean said:
going to try it thanks for the guide
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol.. I haven't even started documenting the project yet..
watching...
go on
arikyeo said:
Hmm.. I think some of the diodes might not be necessary.. Or maybe it's just the different ICs. Will post up the schematics when I have the time. Currently busy..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, 5.1V Zener is there - its D2 (not necessary, just in case), also LED is just there to signal that's ON.
AFAIM Schottky is higly recommended in datasheet to lower ripple, haven't got oscilloscope yet to see what's the difference.
Be sure you check your datasheets. It only takes a very limited amount of circuitry to control the current throughput of any of the 78X05X models, and they spec them at 5% tolerance levels or less for regulation, so no output circuitry is needed beyond a basic cutoff.
Sorry for my absence the past few days.. Have been extremely busy with personal stuff including arguing with the bespoke tailor that she has misjudged my new $600 suit's khaki colour for the grey I originally wanted.. &#&$***#$
Anyway once I make a trip down to purchase the parts I will finish documenting this. Thanks for your patience..
thanks, it really help me in travel
This is actually very practical and can be done, given you have the right materials, basic electricity knowledge, and a rigged out hobby box to seal the components. I managed to construct a somewhat functional external battery for my iPhone 4 and besides and occasional d/cs, it served it's job.
If you like it easy and energy efficient you can use a "TRACOPOWER - TSR 1-2450" switching DC/DC converter.
- Input Voltage: 6.5V to 36V
- Output Voltage: 5.0V
- Output Current: 1A
- Up to 96 % efficiency
– No heat-sink required
- SIP-package fits existing TO-220 footprint
- Built in filter capacitors
- Short circuit protection
It is not as cheap as an 7805 (farnell.com 7.70€) but if you charge with a battery you don´t need any further circuit.
Just connect battery to input, output to USB+ and GND like 7805.
Normally your phone should start charging without any circuit to D+, D- (I checked my HD2 does).
Car-bon said:
If you like it easy and energy efficient you can use a "TRACOPOWER - TSR 1-2450" switching DC/DC converter.
- Input Voltage: 6.5V to 36V
- Output Voltage: 5.0V
- Output Current: 1A
- Up to 96 % efficiency
– No heat-sink required
- SIP-package fits existing TO-220 footprint
- Built in filter capacitors
- Short circuit protection
It is not as cheap as an 7805 (farnell.com 7.70€) but if you charge with a battery you don´t need any further circuit.
Just connect battery to input, output to USB+ and GND like 7805.
Normally your phone should start charging without any circuit to D+, D- (I checked my HD2 does).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I could not find this part number originally, so I pointed out the limiting capabilities of the 7805 series, but anyone that can get one of these and goes the 7805 route anyway is retarted! lol. Unless you just want to do it for fun, which lets face it, is 95% of the reason anyone would do this anyway! replacement batteries are like $5 of amazon for pretty much any device!
may be a better idea for cosidaration
you may use some power transistor with base voltage pulled to 5.1v using a 5.1 v zener diode, and that will give u a 5 v at o/p. and be sure to use a transistor which can handle min of 12v i/p and an o/p current of 2 or more amps. that will reduce the various voltage drops by using lots of components, and also less i/p voltage is required. like 5.5-6v i/p for 5 v o/p.
send from my hd2 @ dorimanx v.3.0.0.rom,with 2way rec kernal.
Car-bon said:
If you like it easy and energy efficient you can use a "TRACOPOWER - TSR 1-2450" switching DC/DC converter.
- Input Voltage: 6.5V to 36V
- Output Voltage: 5.0V
- Output Current: 1A
- Up to 96 % efficiency
– No heat-sink required
- SIP-package fits existing TO-220 footprint
- Built in filter capacitors
- Short circuit protection
It is not as cheap as an 7805 (farnell.com 7.70€) but if you charge with a battery you don´t need any further circuit.
Just connect battery to input, output to USB+ and GND like 7805.
Normally your phone should start charging without any circuit to D+, D- (I checked my HD2 does).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I've seen something similar around that costs a whopping 15 quid (even though the pound is decreasing in value...........) which translates to about $30 in Singapore dollars. Expensive and impractical for the most part.. If you do breakdown the parts within and the cost I think it'll amount to 10x cheaper..
This is definitely not a bad idea, and certainly easy to make. You can also make it as cheap or expensive as you like, from automated current regulation, battery status LEDs, multiple phones at once, Solar-Power, Nuclear-Reactor power, etc.
But I would recommend 3 1.5 v batteries in a holder, connected to a current regulator (Just in-case. You wouldn't want your precious phone to go up in a poof of smoke now, would you? Five dollars now, or Five hundred dollars later.), then some sort of way to connect to your phone (Either a Female USB connector, or if you want to make it specifically for your phone, get the right type Male USB connector for it).
I would also recommend Heat-Shrink tubing, Solder, and Painters tape (Like electrical tape, except it actually sticks to the wires.) Hot glue might also come in handy.
Related
I use my old Motorola mini-USB supplies and love 'em but would like something with more juice than the ~800mA they put out. Any suggestions? I can occasionally find a folding-plug power supply but then the max current is never specified
TIA,
Richard
Closest I know of is Boxwave's VersaCharger Pro which supplies 1 Amp, which I've found sufficient for charging my Tytn II.
3waygeek said:
Closest I know of is Boxwave's VersaCharger Pro which supplies 1 Amp, which I've found sufficient for charging my Tytn II.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, that one is interesting - a little bulkier than I'd prefer. I have to do some testing, but I recently discovered my ~800mA Moto charger won't charge my APC USB battery when it's completely discharged. I've not noticed any issues with my Hermes or Kaiser, but I don't let them get to 0% and I usually can wait overnight when they're really low.
It was a pretty unhappy discovery that my current supply wouldn't charge that battery! Luckily I had my laptop along and it *would* charge from the USB port - which can probably supply 1A or more.
I'd like to get a nice 1.5-2A supply and at least *know* that I wasn't hitting a current limitation
Richard
rsolomon said:
I'd like to get a nice 1.5-2A supply and at least *know* that I wasn't hitting a current limitation
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw this Griffin Powerblock Universal at my local Staples, and the box said 5V @ 1A:
http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/powerblockuniversal
That's a lot more the desired form-factor, but still shy of what I wanted.
I may snag one anyway just to see.
Richard
rsolomon said:
It was a pretty unhappy discovery that my current supply wouldn't charge that battery! Luckily I had my laptop along and it *would* charge from the USB port - which can probably supply 1A or more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, most, if not all, computer USB ports are limited to 500 mA -- to get 1A you need a powered hub.
3waygeek said:
Actually, most, if not all, computer USB ports are limited to 500 mA -- to get 1A you need a powered hub.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not convinced of that. Yes, the spec is max 500mA and I've sometimes seen some machines pop up and complain about overcurrent on a port, but many other times not. I'm also not 100% convinced that all my laptop's USB ports are directly off the chipset - so there may effectively be a powered hub involved here. I guess I'll have to carve up a USB cable and put a current meter in there to answer the question one way or another - don't hold your breath on that one
Richard
A couple of things:
As far as USB port power goes, I've read up about this (forget why), but the USB spec DOES say that each USB port needs to supply at least 500mA... But in practice motherboard manufacturers tie the power lines of multiple ports together, so if a motherboard has 4 ports, the power bus will be connected to all of them, and it will supply at least 500mA x4, or 2000mA (2 Amps) total. There is generally no individual regulation of this however, so if you only have one device plugged in, it has the full 2 amps to draw from. Often other devices like mice or keyboards use so little power that there is plenty left for other peripherals to use well over 500mA even when all the ports are in use. This is actually a problem, as many product manufacturers get "lazy" and design products that actually NEED more than 500mA, especially things like bus powered hard drives, because those work on most systems (but frustratingly, not all).
As far as power supplies, i got curious, and here's what i found:
The exact power supply that comes with the tilt is about $8US from mouser in the US:
http://www.mouser.com/search/Produc...irtualkey55210000virtualkey552-PSA-A05A-050-R
it's mouser part number: 552-PSA-A05A-050-R
Sadly it doesn't fold and it also only provides 1A, so, here's some more stuff:
This part is similar but just has a USB port on it, so if you already have the data cable with you, the AC adapter won't take up much more space:
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/US/DKSUS.dll?Detail?name=T1003-ND
Now i'm really not having any luck finding exactly what you need, but if you're a bit handy you can wire a mini USB port onto another 5v power supply with more current output. I can't tell you which wires go where but if you have a multimeter and a soldering gun you should be able to figure it out:
here's a USB mini cable with wires coming off one end if you don't want to cut up a cable you already have: http://www.digikey.com/scripts/US/DKSUS.dll?Detail?name=WM17104-ND
And any good regulated or switching 5v power supply should be good. Here's one with 2A output, and it's described as "flip out", so i imagine the connector, um, flips out, but it's not a stock part so you'd have to call them, and i don't know if it's regulated or switching (either is good, i think), so you should ask: http://www.digikey.com/scripts/US/DKSUS.dll?Detail?name=T321-P5P-ND
an in stock, non-flip out one is here:
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/US/DKSUS.dll?Detail?name=T450-P5P-ND
If you custom wire one, test it on a less important device, just to make sure that it really will be okay, and don't sue me if it breaks something. Plus, i don't know how the kaiser feels about charging at more than 1A, since the stock power supply only provides that much current.
Also, another kind of plug is the "multi-plug" power supply, with removable plugs to allow for plugs from different countries to clip on, so rather than flipping out the plug, you could just unclip it, if you don't mind having 2 pieces. Here's one of those at 1.2A and $13US: http://www.digikey.com/scripts/US/DKSUS.dll?Detail?name=T946-P5P-ND
or 3.2A at $18US:
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/US/DKSUS.dll?Detail?name=T377-P5P-ND
But you might want to call HTC and talk to an engineer (they're hard to get a hold of, but i've been able to do it at other companies if you keep asking) and make sure that higher charging currents are okay.
And i really only checked mouser and digikey for these things, so it's possible that other suppliers might have something different, though they are two of the largest suppliers of this kind of thing in the US, so i'd be surprised.
You could even call CUI direct and speak to someone there, they're nice people and they might be able to make you a custom one for not too much (i doubt they'd do that for one unit, but if they already make something close they might!).
If you can't get what you need easily, try harder! Hehe.
-Taylor
Bought one of these guys to hardwire a charger in my car:
http://www.mountguys.com/product_p/mfx5v-b-micro.htm
On the charger is specifies 5V 1500mA output. Is that ok? I know it's more than stock, but I thought circuitry can step it down if needed.
Also, I'm thinking I want to hardwire to the always hot lead that goes to the radio memory function. Any chance of current problems? Don't think it will drain my battery if I leave it charging while shopping (or at the bar)
Thanks.
I'm curious why you chose to hardwire it, when the device can only pull 700mA, and these little wonders work perfectly.
Nice! Got one of these also... twice the ports and 5X the price:
http://www.amazon.com/Griffin-Powerjolt-Dual-Universal-Micro/dp/B0042B9U8Q/ref=pd_cp_e_2
Yours and mine above specify 1A... this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Charger-Samsu...96/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1318442293&sr=8-15
2.1 A.
I just wanted a cleaner look in a little sports car... the hardwire is going to come out the panel and go straight to a dock. But now I'm worried that 1500 mA could be troublesome?
It won't be troublesome, just useless.
I have a setup for my iPod that utilizes one of what I linked. I've got a USB+RCA-to-dock cable running into my center console, then into a port in there, to some empty space in front of it (under the trim, totally invisible) where my audio guys spliced a new line into the RCA jacks that came from the factory, and split off another power line. The charger's in there, cable connects to the ports... It's nice and clean.
this should be fine. the amperage rating on a charger just tells what it is capable of if requested. it is up to the phone itself to provide the requested amount of current. that is to say if this charger can provide 1500mA, but our phones can only use 750mA, your good. it is provided all the current it needs. now on the other hand, if you were charging some device that could use 2000mA(unheard of) this charger would provide all it could, the device would just charge slower.
the voltage is fine. most chargers are rated at 5v, and should be spot on as long as it is a decent brand from a trusted source. a knock off may be out of spec to what it is rated. that is where you could run in to trouble with frying a phone.
anyway, besides all that, this seems risky. not hardwiring a charger to your car, but leaving it there while you are shopping or in the bar. ever heard that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure? id hate to come out of a bar to a broken window and no phone...
i never leave my phone unattended outside of my home.
austin420 said:
some device that could use 2000mA(unheard of)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
iPad, TouchPad, Galaxy Tab 10.1...
Guess I'm a noob.. very detailed answer in FAQ.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=802711&highlight=voltage+amps+charger
Now to find out if those pins are shorted...
Has anyone looked at the following product for wireless charging (ala Powermat)?
It doesn't look like it outputs a lot of power, but for overnight / sitting on the work desk type of charging, it may be adequate.
www dot seeedstudio dot com/depot/wireless-power-supply-p-701.html
Would be interesting to see if it could be nicely integrated into a phone cover.
I think I will order one to play with even though I am not a developer or a hacker or anything like that!
I've seen charging coils like that hacked into existing devices. There are also, on the horizon, self contained batteries that have the inductive charging built in - upgrade any device to wireless charging! (any device with enough volume to justify making such a battery, anyway)
This definitely could work quiet well for that sort of application. I think it is a bit larger than you would hope but if you put a usb connector on the end I think it would work really well.
Yap, but there are limitations.
Loss of energy
Less efficiency
Low amp ratings
Interference
Bulky.
Goods are
Wireless
No need of conectors that opens to external world( for devices with built in coils)
No connector problems like damaged port,loose contacts etc.
Sent from my HTC HD2 using xda premium
giritrobbins said:
This definitely could work quiet well for that sort of application. I think it is a bit larger than you would hope but if you put a usb connector on the end I think it would work really well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is the $64 problem! Trying to get USB connectors without the need to butcher an existing USB cable. Ideally, I would like to have a double ended USB connector - a male microUSB to plug into the phone, and a female micro or mini USB on the other end - to allow a USB cable connection between the phone or external charger. I know that I could buy from Digikey a male micro USB connector, and a female connector. But these connectors do not come with casings, so any use of them probably wouldn't look pretty without many hours of thought and effort.
I am assuming (without having this charger in my hands with the specifications) that I would probably need to have one or more diodes in-line with the receiver wires to stop external source current entering the receiver and possibly damaging it.
I haven't read up on Li-Ion cell phone batteries and how to keep them efficient. So I don't know whether these batteries can live long term on low current charging, or whether they would need higher current (as from manufacturer provided chargers) to provide efficient long term output.
Induction charging is being used in several applications already, like WII remotes and such. The problem is, as stated above ^^^^ I'm not really sure how lithium ion batteries stand up so such charging, (almost trickle). I know that the batteries used in Wii remotes are Nickel Hydride though.
DMPinBC said:
That is the $64 problem! Trying to get USB connectors without the need to butcher an existing USB cable. Ideally, I would like to have a double ended USB connector - a male microUSB to plug into the phone, and a female micro or mini USB on the other end - to allow a USB cable connection between the phone or external charger. I know that I could buy from Digikey a male micro USB connector, and a female connector. But these connectors do not come with casings, so any use of them probably wouldn't look pretty without many hours of thought and effort.
I am assuming (without having this charger in my hands with the specifications) that I would probably need to have one or more diodes in-line with the receiver wires to stop external source current entering the receiver and possibly damaging it.
I haven't read up on Li-Ion cell phone batteries and how to keep them efficient. So I don't know whether these batteries can live long term on low current charging, or whether they would need higher current (as from manufacturer provided chargers) to provide efficient long term output.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have heard rumours of the device killing batteries. It would be interesting to see how much of the power actually gets to the unit. The wireless power supply you linked in your OP shows a rating of 300-400 mA. That means the average battery would take 3-4 hours to charge from dead if all that power was indeed making it's way to the battery. Not really a trickle charge is all that power makes it to the battery.
All lithium ion battery assemblies have built in circuitry to prevent overcharging, overheating, and possible explosion/fire. The charge circuitry will turn off when fully charged and there's no penalty for topping off a LIon battery without discharging. Hacking a USB cable isn't all that complicated although may not be pretty depending on how well it's soldered together. There will always be a lump in the middle of the cable where the connections are made but you could use sleeving to hide it.
I tried an OEM non branded wireless charger, and after 6 hours of charging, my iphone's battery only increased around 20%...
Anyone tested this on Desire HD?
Anyone know if this will work/has tested on a Samsung Vibrant? Thanks.
I think this technology is still young, probably in 2/3 years it will be improved in its energy losses...
gebedias said:
I think this technology is still young, probably in 2/3 years it will be improved in its energy losses...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think time is going to make it more efficient. I think the trend in industry right now (specifically the WPC) is to define a standard, places where you would use wireless power are places where there is plenty of power.
There are a bunch of different companies that make wireless power solutions. I think that the best would be to hack together a QI compliant receiver to the USB port on your phone and then use any QI compliant mat for the transmitter.
Hi,
I want to make a portable charger for my phone using:
1 LM7805,
1 capacitor to filter out high frequency noise,
1 slide switch ON / OFF,
1 status LED,
1 resistor
1 12-volt battery.
What do you think?
Will it work or will ruin the phone battery?
nice modding info...
I have one question.. can I change the IC regulator with AN its not LM .. (what mean LM) ? ... tanx before
Well, i don't even know if this circuit works. The lm7805 is a voltage regulator, 5v out
Sent from my Xperia Sola using XDA Premium HD
aymiu cloack
god modding
Not a bad idea, but the 7805 is a linear regulator.
With 12V in you will be wasting 58% of the energy.
100%-(5V/12V)=58%
You want a switching regulator.
In some ways the easiest thing is to just buy a car cigarette lighter charger,
take the case off and solder a battery directly to the circuit board.
Or you could use something like this on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-to-DC-Co...215?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cd0dba49f
Look further, this was just the first thing that I found off-hand.
andriboy923 said:
nice modding info...
I have one question.. can I change the IC regulator with AN its not LM .. (what mean LM) ? ... tanx before
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes you can use,,, this AN/LM gives us the information abt the manufacturing material.
But LM7805 is a good quality material...
Nice :thumbup:
guba91 said:
Hi,
I want to make a portable charger for my phone using:
1 LM7805,
1 capacitor to filter out high frequency noise,
1 slide switch ON / OFF,
1 status LED,
1 resistor
1 12-volt battery.
What do you think?
Will it work or will ruin the phone battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As another posted said, you would be wasting over half the input power as heat - which means that the LM7805 will heat up like mad, so hot it can easily burn your fingers. This is due to the drop-out voltage being too high (Vout-Vin). One way to overcome this is to use an input transformer to step down the voltage from 12V to around 5V. (Keep in mind that the input voltage must always be around 1.25V higher than the output voltage though!)
And then add a heatsink to the 7805 too of course.
Then it should work. (I would also add an input diode for reverse polarity protection, for good measure.)
Hope this helps :good:
thanks for info
thanks bro
guba91 said:
Hi,
I want to make a portable charger for my phone using:
1 LM7805,
1 capacitor to filter out high frequency noise,
1 slide switch ON / OFF,
1 status LED,
1 resistor
1 12-volt battery.
What do you think?
Will it work or will ruin the phone battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what brands are good to buy, i read several times that other power banks as they are called cause an overpower and may damage the phone
Physiotherapist said:
what brands are good to buy, i read several times that other power banks as they are called cause an overpower and may damage the phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The whole thread is about building your own (USB phone) charger, not at any point were commercial products mentioned FYI.
Anyone been able to turn on this phone and run it without a battery with permanent power?
Short answer: not possible.
Longer answer: You would need a pretty hefty engineering brain to figure this out, as the circuitry of the daughter board detects and adjusts the mainboards voltages and such, based on the battery output. When battery output is 0, meaning dead/removed battery, the daughter board doesn't supply voltages to the mainboard.
Now, you could replace the battery with a supercapacitor, but you'd need to have a pretty big one to output the current of a fully charged battery of the 6P - something around the 10kf mark, which IIRC from my university days, is roughly the size of 2 D-cell batteries or so. You'd then need to wire this all in, and even if you made it neat and 3D printed a new back, you went from a slim phone to a small brick. You'd also still need to provide current to charge the super capacitor, which doesn't use normal voltages like the charger and daughterboard can output, so you'd need to add in a voltage regulator board, wire that to the daughterboard, let the DB send current to the mainboard, and since this all outputs a lot of heat, now you run into a serious heating / cooling problem. Add a fan, a larger super capacitor to power said fan, and well, you now have something that looks like a bomb lol.
To touch further on the heat problem - my dash camera has a 10kf SC in it that I wired in instead of the crappy NiCad battery it came with. It was hot enough to keep the snow melted through the windshield on its own with 12v 1a current - roughly 20% of the current the wall charger of the 6p provides. It didn't keep the whole windshield free, rather, a spot large enough to let the camera do its thing without issue.
Thanks Wiltron for your reply. Doesn't seem worth it for me to go through that much trouble to be honest, besides, having something in your car that looks like a bomb these days will get me more attention than I want. I do have to say that I'm able to power the phone with just the charger connected, but up to a certain point, when the cpu spikes while booting it runs short of power and shuts off. Same thing when I'm fully booted into android, I disconnect the battery and it will stay running up to the point where I start some app or even just turn the phone on its side and the phone just goes dark. I'm thinking that the daughterboard does provide power to the motherboard without a battery, but just not enough. Do you think a heftier charger might overload the circuitry of the phone?
cbgreen said:
Do you think a heftier charger might overload the circuitry of the phone?
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It can provide as much current as normal operations permit, however just make sure the cable and charger are official and supported, like Benson certified cables and a decent quality car charger like Anker.
Don't go crazy with the 50amp 120v brick chargers for cars, but don't grab the cheap ass gas station 0.5a 5v 4 for $10 special either
Tronsmart has good ones - I use one personally that has the certified USB C cable built into it.. minimal issues other than the thing does get hot