Database Users

I killed my phone's usb connector. HELP!!!

Hi!
I made big big big mistake. I thought I am able to make the inductive mod and solder it directly to the usb connector of the phone. Big fail! Dumb me...
First everything was working but then I wanted more and tried to resolder the new cable to the very small VCC pin of the usb connector. Puff and nearly the complete pad for USB VCC disappeared :-(. Seems I soldered to hot or to long.
I now have a phone which I can't charge any more. Right now I'm on 30% battery so I don't have much time...
I think there are some possibilities:
1st:
Find out where the USB VCC pin goes and solder a cable from there. Right now I had no luck and I can't measure with a ohm-meter to find an other pad with the same net. I also have no board layout from the pcb. Maybe someone of you can help with measuring or pcb data?
2nd:
I find a temporary solution by charging the battery (i have to of them) manual with a lab power supply and some resistor? Does anybody know the max ampere load for the battery of the SGS? Any ideas for charging voltage and series-resistor value?
3rd:
Is there a way to get a working main pcb for the GT-I9000? Maybe from a phone with a defect display? This shouldn't cost too much since I am also thinking about a new model.
4th:
Will it blend? Kaboom? Burn baby burn? ...
Hope I can get help with this!

Well you need a hardware engineer to answer you and here youll rarely find one.
hit thankxx if i helped. sent from my mind through telepathy (ya its possible)!

Purchase another battery (have at least 2) and an external battery charger.

upichie said:
Purchase another battery (have at least 2) and an external battery charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I already have 2 batteries. Where do I get such a "external battery charger"? Most of them seems to use usb connectors and this is broken on my phone.

Search for it on ebay and if ypu cant find one search for it on google.
hit thankxx if i helped. sent from my mind through telepathy (ya its possible)!

BHuvan goyal said:
Search for it on ebay and if ypu cant find one search for it on google.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For example, one of these.
(Note: I merely searched "i9000 battery charger" and sorted by price. I in no way recommend, have tested, or endorse the usefulness of the previously linked to product.) ...

fpdragon said:
...
2nd:
I find a temporary solution by charging the battery (i have to of them) manual with a lab power supply and some resistor? Does anybody know the max ampere load for the battery of the SGS? Any ideas for charging voltage and series-resistor value?
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it is dangerous but possible:
use a precision voltage source of
4.195 V +- 10mV
and a series resistor of 2.2Ohm, 1%, 1/2W
if your batt is down to 3.3V it will start charging with about 400mA and goes up to 4.195 V ( will need several hours, you can charge it over night)
never charge to a voltage above 4.210V !!! your LiIon batt will die !!!
best solution is: go and buy an external charger with a battery (approx. 12-19€ with shipping) on ebay
look for a polarcell 1800mAh batt, like this one
http://goo.gl/Cun7U
it's worth the money, i've bought one and use it since two weeks and am very pleased with it.
But be careful, there are some other batterys from hongkong, which also claim 1800mAh, but they don't have it, i had one too and it measured only 1300mAh.

tiwag said:
it is dangerous but possible:
use a precision voltage source of
4.195 V +- 10mV
and a series resistor of 2.2Ohm, 1%, 1/2W
if your batt is down to 3.3V it will start charging with about 400mA and goes up to 4.195 V ( will need several hours, you can charge it over night)
never charge to a voltage above 4.210V !!! your LiIon batt will die !!!
best solution is: go and buy an external charger with a battery (approx. 12-19€ with shipping) on ebay
look for a polarcell 1800mAh batt, like this one
http://goo.gl/Cun7U
it's worth the money, i've bought one and use it since two weeks and am very pleased with it.
But be careful, there are some other batterys from hongkong, which also claim 1800mAh, but they don't have it, i had one too and it measured only 1300mAh.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the detailed infos.
I already have one of these 1800mAh batteries and my subjective impression was good. The second battery I have is the original one.
I will buy one of these charging adapters. Until it is coming I was thinking about using a labratory power supply with your mentioned 2,2Ohm Resistor and with a Ampere limitation of 400mA. Should be no risk, isn't it? Then slowly rise the voltage until I get the current of about 300mA.
The thing is... I have no spare phone and I really would need it on Monday.

I configured the power supply to 4,21V at 400mA max (current delimiter).
It startet at about 4V and I had a constant 400mA load. After about one hour the current delimiter switched off and I now have stable 4,21V. The current lowers slowly.
I think this should be a save charging procedure?

[WIP] Make a portable USB charger!

I'm going to show you how to make a USB charger where you can bring along with you almost everywhere. There are millions of ways to make one with various brains, ranging from the super cheap 7805s to insanely expensive IC (Integrated Circuit, not Insane C*cks) with awesome mind controlling thingies. I'm only going to show here 2 of the most popular implementations; The 78xx way and the MAX756 (Some TI or LT ICs are also viable alternatives) way. The 78xx way is by far the easiest and cheapest way (I can buy in bulk for a few cents a piece) and coupled with the battery holder and a fancy box to store it, it won't cost you more than $2 (Or $10 if you're buying from Radioshack or can't find the right guy to buy from). However, they drink your battery juice like a dehydrated guy drinks water (really!) and in the long run, it will be more expensive to maintain than the MAX756 method. However if you suck at soldering or are stuck with a lousy soldering iron (like me for now) you're better off using the 78xx method because I've fried more MAX756s with my blunt tip more times than you care to count (At that time, I ordered the wrong part and was stuck with 30 of the super tiny SoC chips which were an extreme pain in the a*se to solder with a fat iron). However, no matter what the cost is, I'm sure you will find it very useful especially in certain situations. Scoff at your friends while you are happily playing GTA3 on your power-hungry tablet while they bang theirs on the table because their battery's flat! Anyway, back to the topic, you can read up on the 78xx series here.
NOTE: THIS IS STILL CONSIDERED WIP WHILE I FINISH THE PROJECT AND UPLOAD THE IMAGES.

78xx METHOD
Ok, first off, you must choose what kind of 78xx to use. If you're powering a typical Android phone or iPhone you'll need 1A of power. You can tell the difference by looking at its size. the 500mA version will be quite tiny like your average sized LED, whereas the 1A version will be significantly bigger. However, if you are gonna be using the charger for a tablet such as the Touchpad or Galaxy Tab, you'll need to bring out the big guns. That's where the 78s05 comes in. It's 2A instead of 1A. However, (based on personal experience) you need more batteries connected in parallel (+ to +, - to -) for more combined amperage otherwise the 78s05 won't be able to power your tablet properly. Furthermore, as it outputs a constant stream of 2A, your typical phone likely won't accept the humungous amounts of current (believe me, I've tried). So you have to decide what you have to power at this stage.
...
...
Once you've decided what 78xx you choose to use, you'll also need:
-USB Female connector (Or MicroUSB Male port if you're feeling lucky). I ripped mine off a USB hub
-1-3 9V adapters (6AA Battery holder will suffice if you're a AA fanatic) as 9V batteries typically have very little power output)
-A fancy box
-Schottky diode model 1N5817 (For the tabloid version use ZHCS2000); a few just to be safe (Read about it here; its optional if you're feeling lucky )
--The function of the Schottky diode here is like a one-way road. The current can only flow in 1 direction and not the other direction to the end of your device.. I've damaged a HD2 with a faulty 7805 when the current went the opposite direction.
--NOTE: DON'T USE TOO MANY OF THOSE DIODES because each one loses a bit of current and soon you'll have not enough power to power your device..

Max756 method
reserved for later

Signing off
reserved for later

Great idea, gonna try it!
From my fingers to your eyez

going to try it thanks for the guide

Done something similiar few weeks ago.
Based on MAX608, it's very easy to solder, as it's huge DIP package.
Complete schematic, it also contains 5.1V Zener Diode (overvoltage protection)
I don't remember Schottky and transistor parameters, these can be taken from datasheet.
Powered from 2 1.5V AA cells works fine. That set of 4 resistors on USB D- and D+ pins is for iPods and iPhones to enable charging at all in 0.5A mode.

Rebellos said:
Done something similiar few weeks ago.
Based on MAX608, it's very easy to solder, as it's huge DIP package.
Complete schematic, it also contains 5.1V Zener Diode (overvoltage protection)
I don't remember Schottky and transistor parameters, these can be taken from datasheet.
Powered from 2 1.5V AA cells works fine. That set of 4 resistors on USB D- and D+ pins is for iPods and iPhones to enable charging at all in 0.5A mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm.. I think some of the diodes might not be necessary.. Or maybe it's just the different ICs. Will post up the schematics when I have the time. Currently busy..

SGA-Sean said:
going to try it thanks for the guide
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol.. I haven't even started documenting the project yet..

watching...
go on

arikyeo said:
Hmm.. I think some of the diodes might not be necessary.. Or maybe it's just the different ICs. Will post up the schematics when I have the time. Currently busy..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, 5.1V Zener is there - its D2 (not necessary, just in case), also LED is just there to signal that's ON.
AFAIM Schottky is higly recommended in datasheet to lower ripple, haven't got oscilloscope yet to see what's the difference.

Be sure you check your datasheets. It only takes a very limited amount of circuitry to control the current throughput of any of the 78X05X models, and they spec them at 5% tolerance levels or less for regulation, so no output circuitry is needed beyond a basic cutoff.

Sorry for my absence the past few days.. Have been extremely busy with personal stuff including arguing with the bespoke tailor that she has misjudged my new $600 suit's khaki colour for the grey I originally wanted.. &#&$***#$
Anyway once I make a trip down to purchase the parts I will finish documenting this. Thanks for your patience..

thanks, it really help me in travel

This is actually very practical and can be done, given you have the right materials, basic electricity knowledge, and a rigged out hobby box to seal the components. I managed to construct a somewhat functional external battery for my iPhone 4 and besides and occasional d/cs, it served it's job.

If you like it easy and energy efficient you can use a "TRACOPOWER - TSR 1-2450" switching DC/DC converter.
- Input Voltage: 6.5V to 36V
- Output Voltage: 5.0V
- Output Current: 1A
- Up to 96 % efficiency
– No heat-sink required
- SIP-package fits existing TO-220 footprint
- Built in filter capacitors
- Short circuit protection
It is not as cheap as an 7805 (farnell.com 7.70€) but if you charge with a battery you don´t need any further circuit.
Just connect battery to input, output to USB+ and GND like 7805.
Normally your phone should start charging without any circuit to D+, D- (I checked my HD2 does).

Car-bon said:
If you like it easy and energy efficient you can use a "TRACOPOWER - TSR 1-2450" switching DC/DC converter.
- Input Voltage: 6.5V to 36V
- Output Voltage: 5.0V
- Output Current: 1A
- Up to 96 % efficiency
– No heat-sink required
- SIP-package fits existing TO-220 footprint
- Built in filter capacitors
- Short circuit protection
It is not as cheap as an 7805 (farnell.com 7.70€) but if you charge with a battery you don´t need any further circuit.
Just connect battery to input, output to USB+ and GND like 7805.
Normally your phone should start charging without any circuit to D+, D- (I checked my HD2 does).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I could not find this part number originally, so I pointed out the limiting capabilities of the 7805 series, but anyone that can get one of these and goes the 7805 route anyway is retarted! lol. Unless you just want to do it for fun, which lets face it, is 95% of the reason anyone would do this anyway! replacement batteries are like $5 of amazon for pretty much any device!

may be a better idea for cosidaration
you may use some power transistor with base voltage pulled to 5.1v using a 5.1 v zener diode, and that will give u a 5 v at o/p. and be sure to use a transistor which can handle min of 12v i/p and an o/p current of 2 or more amps. that will reduce the various voltage drops by using lots of components, and also less i/p voltage is required. like 5.5-6v i/p for 5 v o/p.
send from my hd2 @ dorimanx v.3.0.0.rom,with 2way rec kernal.

Car-bon said:
If you like it easy and energy efficient you can use a "TRACOPOWER - TSR 1-2450" switching DC/DC converter.
- Input Voltage: 6.5V to 36V
- Output Voltage: 5.0V
- Output Current: 1A
- Up to 96 % efficiency
– No heat-sink required
- SIP-package fits existing TO-220 footprint
- Built in filter capacitors
- Short circuit protection
It is not as cheap as an 7805 (farnell.com 7.70€) but if you charge with a battery you don´t need any further circuit.
Just connect battery to input, output to USB+ and GND like 7805.
Normally your phone should start charging without any circuit to D+, D- (I checked my HD2 does).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I've seen something similar around that costs a whopping 15 quid (even though the pound is decreasing in value...........) which translates to about $30 in Singapore dollars. Expensive and impractical for the most part.. If you do breakdown the parts within and the cost I think it'll amount to 10x cheaper..

This is definitely not a bad idea, and certainly easy to make. You can also make it as cheap or expensive as you like, from automated current regulation, battery status LEDs, multiple phones at once, Solar-Power, Nuclear-Reactor power, etc.
But I would recommend 3 1.5 v batteries in a holder, connected to a current regulator (Just in-case. You wouldn't want your precious phone to go up in a poof of smoke now, would you? Five dollars now, or Five hundred dollars later.), then some sort of way to connect to your phone (Either a Female USB connector, or if you want to make it specifically for your phone, get the right type Male USB connector for it).
I would also recommend Heat-Shrink tubing, Solder, and Painters tape (Like electrical tape, except it actually sticks to the wires.) Hot glue might also come in handy.

[Q] Make this tablet USB rechargeable ?

Hi I bought what I believe to be a Wopad V7+ ..
The ac/dc power supply broke and it's tough to find a compatible plug (very tiny) ...I'm waiting for a hopefully compatible charger to be shipped...
The tablet is officially not rechargeable/powerable via the micro-usb but I wondered if someone could point me to a (noob-friendly) way/HACK to make it rechargeable or at least powerable via USB ?
I can't post external links but I know it's powered by 5v 2A and you can find the pictures/information at dealextreme. sku104916 or at wopadusa.com store It seems to be AKA: HAIPAD M8 /Zixoon V78c / McPad V7+ / MOMO 1000 (BUT Resistive touchscreen)
You can see the internal components on a youtube video v=8SiLWpLCfus
there is pics of internal on twitpicDOTcom (/photos /bjlandsberger)
OR THERE : chinadigitalcommDOT com (/ haipad-m8-vimicro-vc882-t10830-10 DOT html)
or http twitpic DOT com ( /6i0ouo/full )
These pics/video aren't mine as I didn't DARE to open mine.
I apologize if my english makes your eyes bleed. Any help is welcome

USB can't provide 2A of current you'll have to buy a new charger
Sent from my X10i using XDA App

nugget1993 said:
USB can't provide 2A of current you'll have to buy a new charger
Sent from my X10i using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that shouldn't matter. It would still charge, just much slower. Just cut open the charging wire and a USB wire. Find which wire is positive and negative on your charging wire. connect the red usb wire to the positive wire in the charging cable. Connect the black wire to the negative wire. Insulate. It should charge.
Note- if you switch the wires, you can permanently screw up your tablet.

This. Just be extra sure not to cross up your wires, I did this once with a USB hub and fried the board. It literally left melted plastic on my desk.
Epic_VS said:
that shouldn't matter. It would still charge, just much slower. Just cut open the charging wire and a USB wire. Find which wire is positive and negative on your charging wire. connect the red usb wire to the positive wire in the charging cable. Connect the black wire to the negative wire. Insulate. It should charge.
Note- if you switch the wires, you can permanently screw up your tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

It's a 3.7v battery which means it can charge at 5V. Looks dooable with a .5A Regulator and a 1ohm resistor... I'd try this and if it fails, then you've tried and failed

So it is a 3.7 but the problem is that is a raw battery pack as in no protection, no regulation, no charging circuit. If you want to sit there and babysit you could attempt to put 5.0V on the power lines and that might work. I would say it is dangerous to do so.

Epic_VS said:
Connect the black wire to the negative wire. Insulate. It should charge.
Note- if you switch the wires, you can permanently screw up your tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No risk of fire/explosion ? What would be the best way to insulate ? heat Shrink tube + tape ?
I planned using a ACDC inwall 110 to USB 5v 1A out adapter, would it be risky ?
Will I have to babysit it to prevent a fire ???
Errrr...
.5A Regulator and a 1ohm resistor.. Maybe with a graph and picture I could figure how to do it ... I don't know anything about electronic/tension ohm's law.. I don't want the battery to explode and rip my head apart.

No matter, go for it, it will be OK, all li-ion batt used in mobile device have a small protection circuit in it(unless specified) ur batt too have it, use heat shrink tube, a 100-300ma USB current can't make it explode.
Sent from my HTC HD2 using XDA App

moto xoom...
Hmm....is this possible to do? If so I would like to try it on my Xoom, the little pin charger is annoying I bent the hell out of it. Micro USB would be stronger . All pros no cons.

For the most part putting 5V on a 3.7V load is not overly dangerous. In order for you to charge a battery, the voltage being applied to the battery has to be greater than the potential storage of the battery. In this case, greater than 3.7V. My blackberry charger is 5V regulated output.
We use 3A power supplies all the time to charge 12V batteries. The voltage we set it to is 14V. These power supplies aren't smart. They just dump current. The higher the voltage pf the battery gets, the lower the current gets as it starts to resist the current that is coming into it. Even your cars alternator puts out 14V and yet the car battery is 12V. For the most part, the actual voltage of batteries is 10%-15% higher than what it is rated at as well. So your 3.7V battery is more like 4.05V - 4.20V when it has a full charge.

But, this is not going to give much big problems. As the current is only 10-20% of the original batt amp, so it will be ok, but for high current ratings the voltage must not be more than 1-1.5 v higher than the batt voltage.
More over the ditachable batt of most phones /pda have inbuilt i-v regulator inside the batt. It will prevent overcharging and deep discharging on most cases.
Sent from my HTC HD2 using xda premium

WOW thanks a lot for the informations, if my RMA doesn't go as I want I'll probably settle to try this and keep this post updated.
Thanks a lot. XDA is great.
My two other (unanswered) threads:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1477288
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1480517

Power on phone without battery

Anyone been able to turn on this phone and run it without a battery with permanent power?

Short answer: not possible.
Longer answer: You would need a pretty hefty engineering brain to figure this out, as the circuitry of the daughter board detects and adjusts the mainboards voltages and such, based on the battery output. When battery output is 0, meaning dead/removed battery, the daughter board doesn't supply voltages to the mainboard.
Now, you could replace the battery with a supercapacitor, but you'd need to have a pretty big one to output the current of a fully charged battery of the 6P - something around the 10kf mark, which IIRC from my university days, is roughly the size of 2 D-cell batteries or so. You'd then need to wire this all in, and even if you made it neat and 3D printed a new back, you went from a slim phone to a small brick. You'd also still need to provide current to charge the super capacitor, which doesn't use normal voltages like the charger and daughterboard can output, so you'd need to add in a voltage regulator board, wire that to the daughterboard, let the DB send current to the mainboard, and since this all outputs a lot of heat, now you run into a serious heating / cooling problem. Add a fan, a larger super capacitor to power said fan, and well, you now have something that looks like a bomb lol.
To touch further on the heat problem - my dash camera has a 10kf SC in it that I wired in instead of the crappy NiCad battery it came with. It was hot enough to keep the snow melted through the windshield on its own with 12v 1a current - roughly 20% of the current the wall charger of the 6p provides. It didn't keep the whole windshield free, rather, a spot large enough to let the camera do its thing without issue.

Thanks Wiltron for your reply. Doesn't seem worth it for me to go through that much trouble to be honest, besides, having something in your car that looks like a bomb these days will get me more attention than I want. I do have to say that I'm able to power the phone with just the charger connected, but up to a certain point, when the cpu spikes while booting it runs short of power and shuts off. Same thing when I'm fully booted into android, I disconnect the battery and it will stay running up to the point where I start some app or even just turn the phone on its side and the phone just goes dark. I'm thinking that the daughterboard does provide power to the motherboard without a battery, but just not enough. Do you think a heftier charger might overload the circuitry of the phone?

cbgreen said:
Do you think a heftier charger might overload the circuitry of the phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It can provide as much current as normal operations permit, however just make sure the cable and charger are official and supported, like Benson certified cables and a decent quality car charger like Anker.
Don't go crazy with the 50amp 120v brick chargers for cars, but don't grab the cheap ass gas station 0.5a 5v 4 for $10 special either
Tronsmart has good ones - I use one personally that has the certified USB C cable built into it.. minimal issues other than the thing does get hot

No battery.. Any way to turn on?

Recently digged out my old Qtek 9000 from the closet, and want to get it turned on again, but i have no battery.. It had swollen up years ago, so i threw it out.
Is there any way i can get the device to turn on again? Plugging in the mini usb charger, and i get a steady red led on the device but not able to turn it on. I tried attaching a powersupply of 3.7v to the + and - min but still nothing..
Any tricks?

Replace battery. It can damage the device severely or worse.
Any swelling is a failure.
Do Not attempt to charge a failed Li!!!
Without the battery to supply enough current, it can not boot. The charger can't sink enough current for a boot up...

blackhawk said:
Replace battery. It can damage the device severely or worse.
Any swelling is a failure.
Do Not attempt to charge a failed Li!!!
Without the battery to supply enough current, it can not boot. The charger can't sink enough current for a boot up...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where to find a battery in the EU though?

Don't know. Sorry. Li's have a limited self life too of about 3-4 years max.

blackhawk said:
Don't know. Sorry. Li's have a limited self life too of about 3-4 years max.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh.. Guess its a goner by now then. What a shame. Thanks for your input!

Da9L said:
Oh.. Guess its a goner by now then. What a shame. Thanks for your input!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can find or adapt a battery if you put some time into it... depends if it's worth it to you.
I have a 12yo flip top ruggedized phone that still boots

So to get the device to turn on with a another battery of the same voltage.. Should i only need to connect the two pins on each end of the pins on the device ?

Da9L said:
So to get the device to turn on with a another battery of the same voltage.. Should i only need to connect the two pins on each end of the pins on the device ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If there's only 2 pins, yes. The polarity must be correct!
Soldering to the mobo van be tricky if you're not proficient at doing it. Not the place to learn! The mobo landings can easily be destroyed by excess or prolonged heat. Prolonged is measured in seconds like 1-3 @ 725F with well tinned tip using 60/40 or better 63/37 lead based rosin core solder only. A tin or bottle of rosin flux can be useful.
You may only get one shot at it...solder pad landing repairs are even more difficult.
It wire is used, very thin gauge stranded only and always pretinned.