Hello
I've searched and tried plenty, and maybe this was covered but I can't find anything..
I recently bought a Klyde unit for my 2013 Hyundai sonata with dimension stereo and stock amplifier..
The wiring seemed simple enough, but I cannot get any sound through my speakers.
I did quite a bit of troubleshooting and even got a replacement canbus decoder from the seller but still nothing..
Is there a simple solution that someone else knows or should I just return the thing and get a different one..
Thanks a million I'm stumped
Edit: the rca cables have sound coming out but I'm trying to keep the stock amplifier and speakers..
The spdif signal going to the canbus "amp controller" box gets 12v power, I get about 200 to 250mv signal into it but 10mv going out to the car's harness
Is there a way to "enable" the amp controller like the Metra boxes?
Sent from my SM-N900W8
Anyone?
I have more pics if it helps
Thanks again
Bought a Metra amp interface and now it works
I am wondering if this might be how to solve my problem. This is the post I made on the large android head unit thread, do you think this metra amp interface would solve this for my lancer also?
if so which did you get and where, I think you have the same head unit I have.
"I just received my unit thursday I had it installed friday, but it was not giving any audio signal and the amp wasn't being turned on. They tried to manually turn on the amp, but there was still no audio coming through.
so I am wondering if there is anything I can do to troubleshoot it myself while waiting for a reply from the seller. There is a few notable things that might be the problem but I figured I would ask here to check before I start.
First there is a red wire that looks like it was cut right near the canbus unit it came this way out of the box, the installer said it had power to it, I am wondering if it's supposed to be cut or if reconnecting it could help, also there is a blue wire on the harness that is not connected into the harness also. will attach pictures. (or not because I am not allowed hopefully you can figure out how to see them below...)
red wire ------- pasteboard dot co/MO1wkXJ.jpg
blue wire ------- pasteboard dot co/MO6kqKs.jpg
back of unit ---- pasteboard dot co/MO9x1eI.jpg"
So what Metra Interface Kit...
I know this is an old thread but I have a 2014 Sonata Limited w/ Dimension Amp and android head unit doesn't output audio either with the Amp controller box or spdif box. I believe these boxes that came with it are not working properly. Please inform me of what kit I need to purchase.
Seeing reports...
I'm seeing reports the the hybl-04 is the Metra kit that you have ended up using. Is this correct?
Hello,
I've found a way to fix some problems with my car-specific PX5 Head Unit which is for an Audi A3 8P and would like to share this solution with you.
The first problem I've found was that with the Bose sound-system the volume would slightly change.
This has to do with a feature called Audio Pilot. With the stock radio this could be disabled in the menu.
To disable this behavior you have to put 12V on a Pin of the quadlock connector for the radio. (see first picture)
The second problem was that an original aux-input wasn't working. The needed Pin's were described on the label of the Head Unit, but after some investigation it was clear that they were not connected. So you would have to get them from the quadlock connector to the connector from the head unit.
Not a clean solution if you ask me.
The Solution of both problems was easy, you can make an additional adapter or you can open your head unit to make some cable bridges.
I choose the second method to reduce the adapters in the car behind the head unit. It's a much cleaner look and there are less points of failure.
The attached pictures show which connection I had made to get all functions working without any additional adapters.
As I didn't find any information for this topic, I hope i could help someone with this post.
Hi all,
New member but long time observer.
I’m finally dipping my toe into the Android Headunit waters, and will use this as a log of what I get up to as well as the many questions I will have due to finding it quite difficult to source specific info on a good-sounding setup in my generation of VW Polo (6C).
My setup will initially entail a current VW-specific Joying HU running the intel chip, Android 8, and 4gb of ram, all the while using the supplied cabling to connect to the factory speaker and CANBUS looms.
I’ve chosen this HU because of its SPDIF output, and will eventually run it to a converter so I can output an optical signal to a Audison amplifier for the best possible signal.
From there I will use the amp to run a set of Morel front splits and rear coax.
I have a Focal sub, but another dedicated amp and enclosure will be required. So this will happen later.
So for now I’ll install the Morel splits and HU, and progress from there. .
My first question: whats the most responsive OBD2 transmitter that you would recommend to use with this HU?
And does anyone know what the new gen Joying HU RCA voltage is?
Cheers in advance!
From what I have read Joying is having issues with OBD2 on the new HU's. They are working on it and are going to come out with new firmware.
If you are using the SPDIF output then the voltage on the RCA doesn't matter, but it's pretty low. If you have even a somewhat ok amp then it won't matter much. Even crappy amps can handle low voltage from the RCA's.
kouklo said:
From what I have read Joying is having issues with OBD2 on the new HU's. They are working on it and are going to come out with new firmware.
If you are using the SPDIF output then the voltage on the RCA doesn't matter, but it's pretty low. If you have even a somewhat ok amp then it won't matter much. Even crappy amps can handle low voltage from the RCA's.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good to know re the firmware, but if it’s being fixed, then I’ll persist in finding a good OBD2 transmitter.
And yep, I’m aware the RCA’s won’t be used if I can use the SPDIF output, but I’m preparing just in case.
Hey all,
Does anyone know how to make the factory reverse camera work with the new Joying units?
Is it simply a case of splicing the cable from the rear camera and soldering on an RCA plug?
Cheers!
BCK_Phoenix said:
Hey all,
Does anyone know how to make the factory reverse camera work with the new Joying units?
Is it simply a case of splicing the cable from the rear camera and soldering on an RCA plug?
Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe?: https://avinusa.com/volkswagen-factory-backup-camera-rgb-to-rca-converter.html
Hi all, I have an Australian 2011 Kia Sportage Platinum model - I think it was SX / highest spec model in other countries. Apparently the Australian car in 2011 was a little unique in that it had a 6 stack CD but no sat nav on the head unit. There is a factory digital amp and sub woofer located in the rear. As much as I have attempted to get this fact across to suppliers on Aliexpress, I am sure they did not fully understand and have suggested I only need a CAMBUS and I am good to go.
As you can see with the pinout for my radio on connector A I have SPDIF ground, DN and DP. So it is a discrete signal to the amp that decodes what I assume is PCM and then sends it off to the speakers. I have a few questions:
1. Before I install the 7862 Unit, I will check voltage out from Pins 6 and 15 on my factory radio with sound on. I assume this will be less than 5 volts. as per SPDIF coax spec. I will then connect up the 7862 unit, plug in an RCA to the COAX SPDIF out and check voltage. If the wiring loom that I have been sent doesn't work, this COAX out feed fed into my car's wiring loom along with a 12v signal on pin 14 (remote AMP) will get me started. Any thoughts?
2. On Connector A of my original head unit, there are the SPDIF outs but why are there also speaker outs for front and rear left and right if there is a digital signal to the amp? Does this mean that the amp is only feeding the sub woofer and that the fronts and rears are fed directly from the head unit? It seems very strange to me.
3. PIN 9 on Connector A is DETENT. What is that? PIN 14 is Remote AMP. Is this a 12v line to wake up the amp?
4. Chinese Unit wiring shows a CANBUS but I am unsure is the CANBUS has an analog to digital converter? Can anyone shed light on this?
I appreciate any assistance you can offer.
This could help regarding SPDIF: https://www.gencoupe.com/threads/help-spdif-preamp-input-nav-premium.106094/
Are you sure the China head unit has an SPDIF output?
I think your OEM radio supports both. SPDIF and analog output. Or there is a cheaper variant available which only supports analog output. You don't need this connectors when using SPDIF.
I don't know Detent but in another forum they just ignored this pin.
Remote Amp is 12v signal for the amplifier. So you're right.
The canbus converts digital signals from your car to the radio. E.g. Translates the steering wheel buttons to a signal the head unit can interpret.
Hi, thanks for the link.
I am sure the chinese unit I purchased has SPDIF out via TOSLINK and coax but not through the main head unit wiring.
There definately is a cheaper model of my vehicle that didn't have a digital amp but I am suprised that there is both direct digital signal to the amp as well as direct wiring to the speakers. It is very confusing.
I understand CANBUS has a high and low signal but I wasn't sure if they specifically also change digital audio signals as well as well as the standard CAN signals.
I believe some CANBUS may handle both the CAN high / low transfer and have the ability to to convert the analog signal out of the android head unit to an SPDIF line level PCM (assumed) signal that my amp needs.
I guess this is not a common subject here. I might have to wait and do a fair bit of testing before I install.
Connecting a china head unit can be a real challenge, especially because there is zero support from the seller.
I've seen the amplifier has separate inputs for navigation voice (pin 9 and 23). Sorry for the German link:
Kia Sportage - Externer verstärker Bauteile und bauteile-Übersicht - AVN-System
Maybe some audio signals will be transferred analog. You could connect the new device without the analog audio connections to check if they are really required.
Can't help you regarding CANBUS but I hope you keep us updated and give some updates of your "project".
Maybe you're interested:
Junsun V1 MTK8259 - the adapter battle (Kia Ceed Jd) / OEM camera usage / reference thread
I bought the Junsun V1 head unit but my Kia Ceed JD had a OEM nav unit which isn't directly compatible to Junsun V1. So I re-wired the wiring harness based on the pins description of my original OEM navigation unit. I'm only modifying the wiring...
forum.xda-developers.com
Thanks again. The problem I have is that my head unit has SPDIF out, USB out rear cam out but all connected to the two white plugs. This unit seems different to all the US, Europe and other Asia models. It might be why I am getting so many blank stares.
I'm even having trouble finding an Australian edition of the wiring diagrams.
Your helpful link to the QL model German manual also has an SL model which is my model. Unfortunately my radio is not amongst the option in the manual. I see radios offer Sirrus so I am assuming that is a US model.
I might just need to go back to first principals and really understand my head unit before I do any installing. How is your install going?
My installation was a little tricky because I found three wringing diagrams which could be the correct one.
Fortunately all the wringing diagrams had ILLU and REVERSE on different positions so I was able to identify the correct one with a multimeter. But I wasn't able to find the wringing diagram with the model name of the device.
I have a Kia and finally the needed wiring diagram was from a Hiunday device. Someone crosslinked from a Kia forum to a Hiunday forum.
I had to completely re-wire and enhance the black plug of the China head unit because AUX and MIC are separate outputs on the China nav unit.
On the other side I had to remove USB from the black connector because this is a separate plug in the Kia.
For you the USB pins may are another good pins to check if the writing diagram is the right one.
I'm sure you already found this regarding the DETENT mystery:
Any radio wiring experts know what "Detent" leads are for?
Any radio wiring experts know what "Detent" leads are for?
grassrootsmotorsports.com
But I think DETENT is PARKING/HAND BREAK. So that's easy to verify.
TorstenH said:
I'm sure you already found this regarding the DETENT mystery:
But I think DETENT is PARKING/HAND BREAK. So that's easy to verify.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think there is still a little mystery for me, but I will work it out.
TorstenH said:
My installation was a little tricky because I found three wringing diagrams which could be the correct one.
Fortunately all the wringing diagrams had ILLU and REVERSE on different positions so I was able to identify the correct one with a multimeter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You were lucky to have the option to eliminate 2 of the 3 wiring diagrams. I will do the same before I start wiring the new HU.
For you the USB pins may are another good pins to check if the writing diagram is the right one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I will be doing a double check of everything.
I *think* that I have worked out why there is SPDIF line level + and - to the amp as well as wiring direct to the speakers from the factory HU.
I *think* that when I use and AUX input from USB or 3.5mm which is analog input, the factory headunit does no conversion and just amplifies the analog signal and sends it to the 4 main speakers. It will be simple to check this.
If I am correct, only CD and radio singal gets converted to digital line level SPDIF PCM then gets sent to the amp.
As my radio has a COAX SPDIF out, I might be able to make a single RCA to double RCA cable to send the signal to the amp. Or I might just patch in the SPDIF COAX RCA into the main ISO plug directly. I think having the COAX SPDIF out from my new HU will give me a lot more option.
I need to check if the CANBUS converts the analog signal to SPDIF line level or if the Chinese wiring just bypasses the amp and sub woofer or does something else again.
My new HU will arrive tomorrow of Monday so I will get time to study the wiring and make some checks. I will be sure to document all of the things I find. I just need to make the time to do it.
Well after a quick plug in and test, I am not getting any signal to amp regardless of how well I have followed the supplier's suggestions.
I think the standard signal to the amp id not happening so the amp is not waking up.
Canbus is for a 2015 Sportage but steering wheel options work with the volume working in opposite.
Will investigate more tomorrow.
Installed the radio today. The radio supplier's suggested installation did not work as I was sure it wouldn't.
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
2.The supplier actually sent me quite a bit more than I was expecting. There were extra patch cables and an external mic. This was nice, but I actually bought a mic thinking that one did not come with the kit. It was only a few dollars though.
3.There is very little installation info. The info by way of photos I was sent did not match the cabling that I had.I would have liked to get an understanding of all the pin outs including the CANBUS but I am yet to receive this.
3. I actually removed my factory radio last night and just powered up the unit. I didn't realise that the default setting in the software is to only put the unit in standby or only turned off the screen. This drained my battery over about 18 hours. I needed a jump start to get the car going and I now have the battery on a trickle charge to repair it.
This default setting allows instant on for the radio. By changing to the option for a three second delay, the radio needs to boot on car starting.
4. Boot times are quick. I have not timed it yet, but I would guess 20 seconds. Bluetooth connection takes about another 20 seconds after that. I will make a video of it and more when I have used the unit a bit more.
5. The radio fascia brackets weren't installed properly. Just make sure to check them before you install. The screws really should be a bit longer to stop threading the fascia mounts.
6. The fascia is not a perfect match for my dash in colour but it still looks good. The fit is not perfect but good enough. I might remove the dash again tomorrow and just pack one side of the fascia so it is more flush fitting but it would only be 3-5mm.
All in all I am very satisfied. The response of the unit is great and sound quality seems good. Bluetooth and wireless connected well and a quick test of the 5ghz frequency wifi tethered to my phone gave 6mb/s when I was downloading the Waze app. I will test more soon.
ludditefornow said:
Installed the radio today. The radio supplier's suggested installation did not work as I was sure it wouldn't.
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
2.The supplier actually sent me quite a bit more than I was expecting. There were extra patch cables and an external mic. This was nice, but I actually bought a mic thinking that one did not come with the kit. It was only a few dollars though.
3.There is very little installation info. The info by way of photos I was sent did not match the cabling that I had.I would have liked to get an understanding of all the pin outs including the CANBUS but I am yet to receive this.
3. I actually removed my factory radio last night and just powered up the unit. I didn't realise that the default setting in the software is to only put the unit in standby or only turned off the screen. This drained my battery over about 18 hours. I needed a jump start to get the car going and I now have the battery on a trickle charge to repair it.
This default setting allows instant on for the radio. By changing to the option for a three second delay, the radio needs to boot on car starting.
4. Boot times are quick. I have not timed it yet, but I would guess 20 seconds. Bluetooth connection takes about another 20 seconds after that. I will make a video of it and more when I have used the unit a bit more.
5. The radio fascia brackets weren't installed properly. Just make sure to check them before you install. The screws really should be a bit longer to stop threading the fascia mounts.
6. The fascia is not a perfect match for my dash in colour but it still looks good. The fit is not perfect but good enough. I might remove the dash again tomorrow and just pack one side of the fascia so it is more flush fitting but it would only be 3-5mm.
All in all I am very satisfied. The response of the unit is great and sound quality seems good. Bluetooth and wireless connected well and a quick test of the 5ghz frequency wifi tethered to my phone gave 6mb/s when I was downloading the Waze app. I will test more soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To 1: Isn't there a setting in Android car menu where you can assign the buttons to specific functions?
To 3: same topic here. I can set Sleep to on or off. But can't set time how long to sleep before shutdown.
TorstenH said:
To 1: Isn't there a setting in Android car menu where you can assign the buttons to specific functions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is that function and I did try to use it. I was long pressing on the physical button before pressing the on screen as suggested but there was no change. I assumed the button remap is only useful for non Canbus driven buttons. I could be wrong, though.
To 3: same topic here. I can set Sleep to on or off. But can't set time how long to sleep before shutdown.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I too would like a full understanding of the sleep function. Things like when sleep starts, when shut down starts etc would be useful.
ludditefornow said:
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope you got this sorted. If not, have you tried this?
ludditefornow said:
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I Installed in my SL Sportage Platinum today and have no sound and no reversing camera. Do you have a photo of how you wired from the SPDIF on the unit to the factory connector?
Did you keep the factory camera? If so, what did you do to get these working? I think my unit is slightly different as I don't have the small clock.
Storrsy said:
I Installed in my SL Sportage Platinum today and have no sound and no reversing camera. Do you have a photo of how you wired from the SPDIF on the unit to the factory connector?
Did you keep the factory camera? If so, what did you do to get these working? I think my unit is slightly different as I don't have the small clock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you use the coax out method? The Kia amp requires am PCM digital signal sent on two wires as mentioned above.
Get an RCA male male cable. Cut on end and strip until you see two bare wires. These bare wires will patch into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) of your car's wiring loom. These are the wires to the amp.
Add this male connector end of the RCA cable into the RCA digital out on the head unit. Check for sound.
My reversing camera is built into my rear view mirror so the wiring is not connected to the radio. And yes, I found the switch for volume, but thanks for letting me know. It might help someone else.
ludditefornow said:
Did you use the coax out method? The Kia amp requires am PCM digital signal sent on two wires as mentioned above.
Get an RCA male male cable. Cut on end and strip until you see two bare wires. These bare wires will patch into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) of your car's wiring loom. These are the wires to the amp.
Add this male connector end of the RCA cable into the RCA digital out on the head unit. Check for sound.
My reversing camera is built into my rear view mirror so the wiring is not connected to the radio. And yes, I found the switch for volume, but thanks for letting me know. It might help someone else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Success!!! I was able to get the amp working thanks to this thread. I was also able to get the camera working by splicing the 'unused' green reverse wire from the supplied harness to the brown reverse signal wire in the CANBUS connection. (I noted that in the some of the offical images the wire was pink.)
Peeps, did you have to connect the remote amp (12v positive?) or SPDIF ground (12v negative?) I’m almost there just no sound.. I’ve connected coax out to pins 6&15 but nothing
From the modifed coax cable coming out of your head unit, what voltage are you getting on either wire when playing audio?
If you aren't getting a signal, then there is a software setting (that I can't think of right now) or another issue.
And I have not connected the remote amp wire. Clear photos help a lot if you have followup questions.
Zero volts
Then the headunit is not passing a signal to the spdif RCA out for some reason
So i recently ordered a Teyes CC3 for my 2015 Honda Civic SI. I was told before that it would work on my car because it has premium audio and the connectors are different. They told someone else it would work plug and play and they sent him a 201t CRV harness and it turns out it didn't work. So Teyes agreed to send me some extra stuff for free with my purchase of the head unit and in return i would help them figure it out. I have background knowledge as I am an automotive technician by trade. However, a lot is lost in translation from Chinese to English.
So i haven't gotten my unit yet but the other guy that bought it first said his powered on but didn't have sound. Well that's probably an easy fix as he didn't power the amp. The bigger issue is that he said the reverse camera, side view camera, and the information display did not work. So i was able to find the manufacturer website for the canbus decoder and also Teyes sent me a PDF file that says how to wire it up. The issue is that the manufacturer of the decoder translated some of the definitions into something else and the wiring for the CRV do not completely match the wiring for my car. They have some pins listed and on my car it shows as not used. Anyone here have experience with wiring these things?
The ones i am most confused about are labled BUS+, and BUS-. I believe these go to the information display and might transmit information such as time and audio information. These are not the can network as there is a CAN_H, AND CAN_L pins. There is also SWC_A, B, and C. I believe these are for steering wheel control. BRAKE_OUT and REVERSE_OUT i believe are outputs to signal the head unit the car is in reverse to activate the reverse camera screen and to notify the unit the handbrake is off.
nit the ones i am completely lost with are labeled RXD, TXD, B_CTL IN, RCAM_CTL IN, and A_CTL.
aMy idea what these last ones might mean? Maybe A_CTL = AMP CONTROL. RCAM_CTL IN= INPUT FOR REVERSE SIGNAL???