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Joying 5.1 HU, USB connections

Re Post from MTCB forum,
Just installed a Joying:
. SKU: JY-UL124 . Quad Core Android 5.1.1 Lollipop OS Capacitive 7" High Definition for Universal Double Din . CPU: RK3188 1.6GHz Cortex A9 Quad Core, Resolution 1024*600. RAM：DDR3 1G, 16 GB memory
To my 2014 Australian Hyundai Elantra.
I waited to get the latest HU from Joying that has an unrated mother board and USB/ Comms board. With Lollipop 5.1.1. the unit performs very well with none of the problem previously mentioned on these pages. The internal and external mics are clear and the Bluetooth systems are perfect. Unit has been rooted and I don't seem to need for apps so I won't changed the software now.
The dimming for the button and the screen to follow the vehicles rheostat was fixed by making a circuit to invert and amplify the rheostat output to the HU ill line. Work's well, Kudos to the guys at the Subaru forums.
I had one bug fixed by Joying when the GPS nav was muted whenever I plugged in the DVR front camera. Joying quickly sent me a link to re flash my firmware and the problem was fixed. I have them currently looking into a bug when I view the DVR input shown on the HU I get lots of flashing to the screen in all pixel settings. I have been told this will be fixed in the next firmware update soon.
One problem that I can't solve is when I try to use my vehicles Multimedia Jack located in my center console. There is a Aux and USB jack there. All wiring from console to HU is complete. If I connect a USB stick to the Jack in the console then then HU struggles to connect and gives up. If I interrupt the USB plug and socket behind the HU then I am able to use the USB correctly. Looking at the car wiring diagrams there is a amplifier cct behind the Multimedia Jack supposedly to amp up the USB to HU. Doesn't seem to work?
Any ideas appreciated.
Duke
CadillacMike
19th May 2016, 04:28 PM |#2
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i have nothing to add, other than interested to see what the result is. Are you saying that your car comes with a built in hub in the console, and you are trying to make that USB port in the console work to the Joying head unit? my vehicle is similar, and I would like that to work as well
Update
Yes I have a console hub I guess.
The book calls it a multimedia center. Just an Aux port and a USB port or Jack in the tidy bin in the center console. If I by pass the Jacks and directly put the USB stick into the USB tail from the radio then it works fine. When I plug into the console port it tries to read it and fails. The HU then reports a read fail, have tried other known working USB sticks.
I have inspected behind the console jacks and found a cct board attached to the Jacks and then to the car wiring. From looking at the diagrams of the car previous to mine I see a cct board containing what looks like an amplifier. Tracing the car wiring to the radio input connectors seems to be OK and the wiring correct. Voltages at the radio connector are right in that there is 5v +ve, negative - earth and the center pins are data as they should be.
The console Jacks
w.hemanual.org/multimedia_jack_description_and_operation-2037.html
The wiring for same (mine is same but more complex)
w.hemanual.org/multimedia_jack_schematic_diagrams-2036.html
Really bugs me not to be able to access that USB input Jack esp as the radio is a great unit.
Duke
bsavoir22
21st May 2016, 07:05 AM |#4
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You need to post this question in the MTCD (Lollipop) hardware thread. This thread is for MTCB (KitKat) units. The hardware in the MTCD headunits are very different than the MTCB headunits.
Thanks and done - I still have the same problem
Duke

Hello, i'm interest in tthis unit,https://www.carjoying.com/quad-core-android-car-radio/quad-core-vw-android-car-radio/joying-2016-latest-aftermarket-european-warehouse-lollipop-android-5-1-1-car-head-unit-autoradio-quad-core-double-din-gps-navigation-system-stereo-radio-support-reverse-camera-dvr-g.html and dont' know if it's the same you have. Can you tell me if you have some lag problems or something? does the hardware handles well the software?

Bob
Seems the same. Same CPU, platform, Specs etc. I think being a "VW Golf Passat Jetta" model from Joying it probably has some firmware in it to pick up your particular car's Bluetooth connections. The front surround looks like it has been added to my "Universal" type to fit neatly into your dashboard. The case and rear connections are identical. I see they have added a CanBus box which my car did not need but looks like yours does. There is probably a harness with it to fit your wiring loom.
if you run a lot of apps at once there is some lag not bad though. Like if you had the radio on and the GPS on and DVR the traffic then that's a pretty big load so then there is some lag but you get used to it. You might have to wait a second before an icon or screen switch becomes available. When running only a few apps at once there is no lag issues.
I like mine a lot, would not replace it with the OEM.
The problem mentioned below is one with my car only. My car's remote console jacks for the AUX and USB have their own preamp so I have by passed them and put in a aftermarket remote Aux USB and that works ok.
I am half way through doing a write up on the modifications and install if anyone is interested.
Duke

Hey mate, does it run Android auto? Trying to figure out which units can and can't. Looks like any running Android 5 can but trying to figure it out. Thanks!

Bench testing a head unit?

Pretend I am a big dummy.. how would I test my Android head unit (Joying JY-JL001), without installing it in my Jeep?
I have the JY-JL001, I have the Jeep wiring harness from Joying that goes from the Joying to the Jeep. I have the Metra 71-6522 reverse wiring harness for a Jeep...
So,
Connect Joying head unit to Joying wiring harness
Plug Joying wiring harness into Metra connector
now what?
So at a bare minimum I know I need to get power and ground to the Metra harness. Any best method of doing that?

CaddyMike,
Here is what I did. I bought a set of four lighted 12V toggle switches off eBay and used the non ISO harness that was supplied with the unit. I wired the four switches to function as the ACC, BACK, ILLUM and BRAKE switches. The +12V BATT was the switch on the front of my 12V bench supply ( any 12V power supply that can supply a couple of amps should work). I propped it on some books, clamped the Joying dash cam and backup cam to a bookshelf above my bench and went to town. Fired it up and immediately attached it to my home WIFI net for updates and the PlayStore. I had an ISO to car converter harness purchased seperately so I used the ISO harness supplied with the head unit to wire my car while I was bench testing the unit with the second non ISO supplied harness. I bought the double DIN universal unit ( JY-UL135N2 ) so it came with both harnesses.
AceEngineer

explain this 12V power supply. I saw multiple online articles about using a computer PSU, but i dont need full functionality. I just need to power it up and update the software, wipe it, etc.
Can I just use something like this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Adapter-10...d=1481642470&sr=8-6&keywords=12v+power+supply

I'm not sure if 2 amps is really enough.
I use a car "jump start battery" to bench test car parts. Something like one of these;
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=car+booster+battery
Note that NONE of these are adequate to *actually* jump start a car.... but they can be useful for testing stuff.

CaddyMike,
That power supply should be plenty if you don't try to drive some big speakers while bench testing. My bench supply has an ammeter and I never saw more than an 1.5 amp draw while I had my unit (JY-UL135N2) on the bench. I had attached some small bookshelf speakers for my testing and it still didn't draw more than 2 amps while driving them at a moderate volume..
AceEngineer

thanks guys, i'll try the cheaper route first and see how it goes

CadillacMike said:
thanks guys, i'll try the cheaper route first and see how it goes
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't jump to bad conclusions if it acts unstable on the marginal power adapter.
Ace is using a much higher quality power adapter than the one you link to, which while yours CLAIMS 2A, may not actually be. Also note that cheap power supplies can act really strange when they are pushed to their limits, things like added noise, surging, or just going well outside of its voltage spec.
Also, that adapter doesn't say much about how (or if) it is regulated, so check with a voltmeter that the output voltage doesn't exceed about 15 volts. Sometimes, you can get power adapters that will output the voltage specified, but only AT the exact current that they spec it for.

Simple snd cheap way of connecting your head unit at home:

Mtcc rk3188 improving sound quality in h&k e46 system

Hi! I bought android unit for my e46 and Im happy with fact that i have android os, factory look and s/w controls. The only, but very disturbing downside of it is that it sounds absolutely s***. Now i know the best solution is to get pioneer and have good sq, but again I will loose all the advantages of android unit. I saw somewhere, that its possible to bypass mcu amp by putting dsp processor, but Im not exactly sure how is this supposed to work with stock harman kardon system. It does have its own amp I believe, but signal that goes out to it is actually amplified. If i use rca outputs of the unit and line them through dsp processor will I still need to amplify signal between dsp and hk? Another question is if anyone ever tried this solution to overcome this horrible sound quality or maybe someone knows better way to sort this out?

magic1447 said:
Hi! I bought android unit for my e46 and Im happy with fact that i have android os, factory look and s/w controls. The only, but very disturbing downside of it is that it sounds absolutely s***. Now i know the best solution is to get pioneer and have good sq, but again I will loose all the advantages of android unit. I saw somewhere, that its possible to bypass mcu amp by putting dsp processor, but Im not exactly sure how is this supposed to work with stock harman kardon system. It does have its own amp I believe, but signal that goes out to it is actually amplified. If i use rca outputs of the unit and line them through dsp processor will I still need to amplify signal between dsp and hk? Another question is if anyone ever tried this solution to overcome this horrible sound quality or maybe someone knows better way to sort this out?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You might want to try a USB DAC (soundcard) connected to one of the usb cables, then feed it to a processor (EQ/fading etc.) via aux or optical and then amplify it somehow.
If the unit supports USB DAC, then i bet you will get the best audio possible.
I might try this on my intel joying on my e46 (not the HK speakers)
At least I will try if my USB DAC is supported.

totaltmega said:
You might want to try a USB DAC (soundcard) connected to one of the usb cables, then feed it to a processor (EQ/fading etc.) via aux or optical and then amplify it somehow.
If the unit supports USB DAC, then i bet you will get the best audio possible.
I might try this on my intel joying on my e46 (not the HK speakers)
At least I will try if my USB DAC is supported.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm curious, which Intel joying model do you have? The one with no DVD slot and a non-working eject button?

gumanov said:
I'm curious, which Intel joying model do you have? The one with no DVD slot and a non-working eject button?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes that one., BL121N2

Thats seems like a good plan as well. What i wonder thought if the signal to feed the hk amp wont be too low from dac or dsp processor. I think input into hk amp is high out from headu unit is that right?

General Question Concerning Bluetooth Capabilities of Android Head Units

Hello everyone,
I am planing on inserting an Android 9.0 head unit with PX6 into my Merc CLK (209 series from 2004), but unfortunately Mercedes made damn sure to make life as unpleasant as possible if you want to tinker with their fibre optic D2B Bose System. So in order to get any sound with the built-in Bose speaker system you have to stick to their dated radio equipement with fibre optic capabilty. I don't wanna rip out the whole Bose System at this point and converter boxes only exist for M.O.S.T devices which followed after D2B. Fortunately you can modify their smallest D2B radio with an aftermarket Bluetooth chip and give it some modern day connectivity. And this is where my question comes into play:
Is it possible for those Android head units to send audio "outwards" via bluetooth ? The main idea is for the Unit to stream it's audio signal (like an ordinary phone or tablet) to the Merc Radio, which will be hidden in the glovebox, consequently acting as an "external bluetooth speaker".
And if it's not possible for the head unit to do so, can they be modified / adapted with a dongle, etc. of some sorts to transmit bluetooth? Creative constructive suggestions are very welcomed here. The ideal constellation would be in the end: Phone/OBD2-dongle/etc. connected to radio connected to Merc Radio Bluetooth receiver. So multiple bluetooth connections should co-exist at the same time.
I know I am probably asking for a lot here and I am of course willing to take cuts, so the most important feature would be for the Head unit to emit all its audio signals to the "Merc Radio bluetooth speaker".
So any pieces of advice from the experts here would be very much appreciated! :fingers-crossed:
Best regards,
Alan

Is the fibre optic system SPDIF / TOSLINK? There are head units that have SPDIF out (Joying, via Coax - but you can convert Coax to TOSLINK easily).
You can also get USB SPDIF but they seem hit or miss. Depends a lot on the version of Android you use, and some will not allow OS to control volume, etc.
To answer your original question - seems like my head unit only acts as a bluetooth server, not client. It cannot connect out as you are asking.

I am in a near-identical situation as you (2003 Sl55 with d2b Bose system). My current plan is to run the audio coming out of the android head unit into an RCA to AUX adaptor, which then plugs into the aux input on my command system. The command will be relocated to the boot and connected to the Bose amplifier over D2B.

rewen said:
Is the fibre optic system SPDIF / TOSLINK? There are head units that have SPDIF out (Joying, via Coax - but you can convert Coax to TOSLINK easily).
You can also get USB SPDIF but they seem hit or miss. Depends a lot on the version of Android you use, and some will not allow OS to control volume, etc.
To answer your original question - seems like my head unit only acts as a bluetooth server, not client. It cannot connect out as you are asking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Rewen,
unfortunately no. It's a proprietary Mercedes System which was not Used anywhere else in that form (at least to my knowledge). It was changend to M.O.S.T in 2004/2005. So Support from third party developers is basically non existent. If you do research on that topic you usually come to the conclusion "stick with it or exchange the speakers, amps, radio....alltogether. It's not the best sounding system to be honest, but for now i don't want to put up with the hassle and the cost of a complete good quality car hifi system.
Thanks for you info, i guess this will account to probably all head units, so i will just stick to a transmitter dongle in the back of the head unit then. That should do the job.

joe2212 said:
I am in a near-identical situation as you (2003 Sl55 with d2b Bose system). My current plan is to run the audio coming out of the android head unit into an RCA to AUX adaptor, which then plugs into the aux input on my command system. The command will be relocated to the boot and connected to the Bose amplifier over D2B.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi joe,
SL55? very nice choice!
After all my research so far i think the Aux cable / Bluetooth dongle method is the most "acceptable" solution for any D2B owner who wants to stick with the Bose system but also wants an android head unit. I was also thinking of just using an Aux cable (Have the Comand 2.0 with AUX), but i ran into a lot of interference noice with the cable, therefore i was driven away from that idea. That's why I will just get a used Audio 10 CD with D2B, modify it with bluetooth and replace my disc changer with it. This will hopefully spare me from running any cable through the car....(too lazy for that right now^^)

Confirmation on wiring 7862 to Kia Sportage 2011 with digital amp

Hi all, I have an Australian 2011 Kia Sportage Platinum model - I think it was SX / highest spec model in other countries. Apparently the Australian car in 2011 was a little unique in that it had a 6 stack CD but no sat nav on the head unit. There is a factory digital amp and sub woofer located in the rear. As much as I have attempted to get this fact across to suppliers on Aliexpress, I am sure they did not fully understand and have suggested I only need a CAMBUS and I am good to go.
As you can see with the pinout for my radio on connector A I have SPDIF ground, DN and DP. So it is a discrete signal to the amp that decodes what I assume is PCM and then sends it off to the speakers. I have a few questions:
1. Before I install the 7862 Unit, I will check voltage out from Pins 6 and 15 on my factory radio with sound on. I assume this will be less than 5 volts. as per SPDIF coax spec. I will then connect up the 7862 unit, plug in an RCA to the COAX SPDIF out and check voltage. If the wiring loom that I have been sent doesn't work, this COAX out feed fed into my car's wiring loom along with a 12v signal on pin 14 (remote AMP) will get me started. Any thoughts?
2. On Connector A of my original head unit, there are the SPDIF outs but why are there also speaker outs for front and rear left and right if there is a digital signal to the amp? Does this mean that the amp is only feeding the sub woofer and that the fronts and rears are fed directly from the head unit? It seems very strange to me.
3. PIN 9 on Connector A is DETENT. What is that? PIN 14 is Remote AMP. Is this a 12v line to wake up the amp?
4. Chinese Unit wiring shows a CANBUS but I am unsure is the CANBUS has an analog to digital converter? Can anyone shed light on this?
I appreciate any assistance you can offer.

This could help regarding SPDIF: https://www.gencoupe.com/threads/help-spdif-preamp-input-nav-premium.106094/
Are you sure the China head unit has an SPDIF output?
I think your OEM radio supports both. SPDIF and analog output. Or there is a cheaper variant available which only supports analog output. You don't need this connectors when using SPDIF.
I don't know Detent but in another forum they just ignored this pin.
Remote Amp is 12v signal for the amplifier. So you're right.
The canbus converts digital signals from your car to the radio. E.g. Translates the steering wheel buttons to a signal the head unit can interpret.

Hi, thanks for the link.
I am sure the chinese unit I purchased has SPDIF out via TOSLINK and coax but not through the main head unit wiring.
There definately is a cheaper model of my vehicle that didn't have a digital amp but I am suprised that there is both direct digital signal to the amp as well as direct wiring to the speakers. It is very confusing.
I understand CANBUS has a high and low signal but I wasn't sure if they specifically also change digital audio signals as well as well as the standard CAN signals.
I believe some CANBUS may handle both the CAN high / low transfer and have the ability to to convert the analog signal out of the android head unit to an SPDIF line level PCM (assumed) signal that my amp needs.
I guess this is not a common subject here. I might have to wait and do a fair bit of testing before I install.

Connecting a china head unit can be a real challenge, especially because there is zero support from the seller.
I've seen the amplifier has separate inputs for navigation voice (pin 9 and 23). Sorry for the German link:
Kia Sportage - Externer verstärker Bauteile und bauteile-Übersicht - AVN-System
Maybe some audio signals will be transferred analog. You could connect the new device without the analog audio connections to check if they are really required.
Can't help you regarding CANBUS but I hope you keep us updated and give some updates of your "project".
Maybe you're interested:
Junsun V1 MTK8259 - the adapter battle (Kia Ceed Jd) / OEM camera usage / reference thread
I bought the Junsun V1 head unit but my Kia Ceed JD had a OEM nav unit which isn't directly compatible to Junsun V1. So I re-wired the wiring harness based on the pins description of my original OEM navigation unit. I'm only modifying the wiring...
forum.xda-developers.com

Thanks again. The problem I have is that my head unit has SPDIF out, USB out rear cam out but all connected to the two white plugs. This unit seems different to all the US, Europe and other Asia models. It might be why I am getting so many blank stares.
I'm even having trouble finding an Australian edition of the wiring diagrams.
Your helpful link to the QL model German manual also has an SL model which is my model. Unfortunately my radio is not amongst the option in the manual. I see radios offer Sirrus so I am assuming that is a US model.
I might just need to go back to first principals and really understand my head unit before I do any installing. How is your install going?

My installation was a little tricky because I found three wringing diagrams which could be the correct one.
Fortunately all the wringing diagrams had ILLU and REVERSE on different positions so I was able to identify the correct one with a multimeter. But I wasn't able to find the wringing diagram with the model name of the device.
I have a Kia and finally the needed wiring diagram was from a Hiunday device. Someone crosslinked from a Kia forum to a Hiunday forum.
I had to completely re-wire and enhance the black plug of the China head unit because AUX and MIC are separate outputs on the China nav unit.
On the other side I had to remove USB from the black connector because this is a separate plug in the Kia.
For you the USB pins may are another good pins to check if the writing diagram is the right one.

I'm sure you already found this regarding the DETENT mystery:
Any radio wiring experts know what "Detent" leads are for?
Any radio wiring experts know what "Detent" leads are for?
grassrootsmotorsports.com
But I think DETENT is PARKING/HAND BREAK. So that's easy to verify.

TorstenH said:
I'm sure you already found this regarding the DETENT mystery:
But I think DETENT is PARKING/HAND BREAK. So that's easy to verify.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think there is still a little mystery for me, but I will work it out.
TorstenH said:
My installation was a little tricky because I found three wringing diagrams which could be the correct one.
Fortunately all the wringing diagrams had ILLU and REVERSE on different positions so I was able to identify the correct one with a multimeter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You were lucky to have the option to eliminate 2 of the 3 wiring diagrams. I will do the same before I start wiring the new HU.
For you the USB pins may are another good pins to check if the writing diagram is the right one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I will be doing a double check of everything.
I *think* that I have worked out why there is SPDIF line level + and - to the amp as well as wiring direct to the speakers from the factory HU.
I *think* that when I use and AUX input from USB or 3.5mm which is analog input, the factory headunit does no conversion and just amplifies the analog signal and sends it to the 4 main speakers. It will be simple to check this.
If I am correct, only CD and radio singal gets converted to digital line level SPDIF PCM then gets sent to the amp.
As my radio has a COAX SPDIF out, I might be able to make a single RCA to double RCA cable to send the signal to the amp. Or I might just patch in the SPDIF COAX RCA into the main ISO plug directly. I think having the COAX SPDIF out from my new HU will give me a lot more option.
I need to check if the CANBUS converts the analog signal to SPDIF line level or if the Chinese wiring just bypasses the amp and sub woofer or does something else again.
My new HU will arrive tomorrow of Monday so I will get time to study the wiring and make some checks. I will be sure to document all of the things I find. I just need to make the time to do it.

Well after a quick plug in and test, I am not getting any signal to amp regardless of how well I have followed the supplier's suggestions.
I think the standard signal to the amp id not happening so the amp is not waking up.
Canbus is for a 2015 Sportage but steering wheel options work with the volume working in opposite.
Will investigate more tomorrow.

Installed the radio today. The radio supplier's suggested installation did not work as I was sure it wouldn't.
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
2.The supplier actually sent me quite a bit more than I was expecting. There were extra patch cables and an external mic. This was nice, but I actually bought a mic thinking that one did not come with the kit. It was only a few dollars though.
3.There is very little installation info. The info by way of photos I was sent did not match the cabling that I had.I would have liked to get an understanding of all the pin outs including the CANBUS but I am yet to receive this.
3. I actually removed my factory radio last night and just powered up the unit. I didn't realise that the default setting in the software is to only put the unit in standby or only turned off the screen. This drained my battery over about 18 hours. I needed a jump start to get the car going and I now have the battery on a trickle charge to repair it.
This default setting allows instant on for the radio. By changing to the option for a three second delay, the radio needs to boot on car starting.
4. Boot times are quick. I have not timed it yet, but I would guess 20 seconds. Bluetooth connection takes about another 20 seconds after that. I will make a video of it and more when I have used the unit a bit more.
5. The radio fascia brackets weren't installed properly. Just make sure to check them before you install. The screws really should be a bit longer to stop threading the fascia mounts.
6. The fascia is not a perfect match for my dash in colour but it still looks good. The fit is not perfect but good enough. I might remove the dash again tomorrow and just pack one side of the fascia so it is more flush fitting but it would only be 3-5mm.
All in all I am very satisfied. The response of the unit is great and sound quality seems good. Bluetooth and wireless connected well and a quick test of the 5ghz frequency wifi tethered to my phone gave 6mb/s when I was downloading the Waze app. I will test more soon.

ludditefornow said:
Installed the radio today. The radio supplier's suggested installation did not work as I was sure it wouldn't.
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
2.The supplier actually sent me quite a bit more than I was expecting. There were extra patch cables and an external mic. This was nice, but I actually bought a mic thinking that one did not come with the kit. It was only a few dollars though.
3.There is very little installation info. The info by way of photos I was sent did not match the cabling that I had.I would have liked to get an understanding of all the pin outs including the CANBUS but I am yet to receive this.
3. I actually removed my factory radio last night and just powered up the unit. I didn't realise that the default setting in the software is to only put the unit in standby or only turned off the screen. This drained my battery over about 18 hours. I needed a jump start to get the car going and I now have the battery on a trickle charge to repair it.
This default setting allows instant on for the radio. By changing to the option for a three second delay, the radio needs to boot on car starting.
4. Boot times are quick. I have not timed it yet, but I would guess 20 seconds. Bluetooth connection takes about another 20 seconds after that. I will make a video of it and more when I have used the unit a bit more.
5. The radio fascia brackets weren't installed properly. Just make sure to check them before you install. The screws really should be a bit longer to stop threading the fascia mounts.
6. The fascia is not a perfect match for my dash in colour but it still looks good. The fit is not perfect but good enough. I might remove the dash again tomorrow and just pack one side of the fascia so it is more flush fitting but it would only be 3-5mm.
All in all I am very satisfied. The response of the unit is great and sound quality seems good. Bluetooth and wireless connected well and a quick test of the 5ghz frequency wifi tethered to my phone gave 6mb/s when I was downloading the Waze app. I will test more soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To 1: Isn't there a setting in Android car menu where you can assign the buttons to specific functions?
To 3: same topic here. I can set Sleep to on or off. But can't set time how long to sleep before shutdown.

TorstenH said:
To 1: Isn't there a setting in Android car menu where you can assign the buttons to specific functions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is that function and I did try to use it. I was long pressing on the physical button before pressing the on screen as suggested but there was no change. I assumed the button remap is only useful for non Canbus driven buttons. I could be wrong, though.
To 3: same topic here. I can set Sleep to on or off. But can't set time how long to sleep before shutdown.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I too would like a full understanding of the sleep function. Things like when sleep starts, when shut down starts etc would be useful.

ludditefornow said:
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope you got this sorted. If not, have you tried this?

ludditefornow said:
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I Installed in my SL Sportage Platinum today and have no sound and no reversing camera. Do you have a photo of how you wired from the SPDIF on the unit to the factory connector?
Did you keep the factory camera? If so, what did you do to get these working? I think my unit is slightly different as I don't have the small clock.

Storrsy said:
I Installed in my SL Sportage Platinum today and have no sound and no reversing camera. Do you have a photo of how you wired from the SPDIF on the unit to the factory connector?
Did you keep the factory camera? If so, what did you do to get these working? I think my unit is slightly different as I don't have the small clock.
Click to expand...
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Did you use the coax out method? The Kia amp requires am PCM digital signal sent on two wires as mentioned above.
Get an RCA male male cable. Cut on end and strip until you see two bare wires. These bare wires will patch into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) of your car's wiring loom. These are the wires to the amp.
Add this male connector end of the RCA cable into the RCA digital out on the head unit. Check for sound.
My reversing camera is built into my rear view mirror so the wiring is not connected to the radio. And yes, I found the switch for volume, but thanks for letting me know. It might help someone else.

ludditefornow said:
Did you use the coax out method? The Kia amp requires am PCM digital signal sent on two wires as mentioned above.
Get an RCA male male cable. Cut on end and strip until you see two bare wires. These bare wires will patch into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) of your car's wiring loom. These are the wires to the amp.
Add this male connector end of the RCA cable into the RCA digital out on the head unit. Check for sound.
My reversing camera is built into my rear view mirror so the wiring is not connected to the radio. And yes, I found the switch for volume, but thanks for letting me know. It might help someone else.
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Success!!! I was able to get the amp working thanks to this thread. I was also able to get the camera working by splicing the 'unused' green reverse wire from the supplied harness to the brown reverse signal wire in the CANBUS connection. (I noted that in the some of the offical images the wire was pink.)

Peeps, did you have to connect the remote amp (12v positive?) or SPDIF ground (12v negative?) I’m almost there just no sound.. I’ve connected coax out to pins 6&15 but nothing

From the modifed coax cable coming out of your head unit, what voltage are you getting on either wire when playing audio?
If you aren't getting a signal, then there is a software setting (that I can't think of right now) or another issue.
And I have not connected the remote amp wire. Clear photos help a lot if you have followup questions.

Zero volts

Then the headunit is not passing a signal to the spdif RCA out for some reason