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Please help! Klyde head unit in 2013 Hyundai sonata can't get the sound working

Hello
I've searched and tried plenty, and maybe this was covered but I can't find anything..
I recently bought a Klyde unit for my 2013 Hyundai sonata with dimension stereo and stock amplifier..
The wiring seemed simple enough, but I cannot get any sound through my speakers.
I did quite a bit of troubleshooting and even got a replacement canbus decoder from the seller but still nothing..
Is there a simple solution that someone else knows or should I just return the thing and get a different one..
Thanks a million I'm stumped
Edit: the rca cables have sound coming out but I'm trying to keep the stock amplifier and speakers..
The spdif signal going to the canbus "amp controller" box gets 12v power, I get about 200 to 250mv signal into it but 10mv going out to the car's harness
Is there a way to "enable" the amp controller like the Metra boxes?
Sent from my SM-N900W8

Anyone?
I have more pics if it helps
Thanks again

Bought a Metra amp interface and now it works

I am wondering if this might be how to solve my problem. This is the post I made on the large android head unit thread, do you think this metra amp interface would solve this for my lancer also?
if so which did you get and where, I think you have the same head unit I have.
"I just received my unit thursday I had it installed friday, but it was not giving any audio signal and the amp wasn't being turned on. They tried to manually turn on the amp, but there was still no audio coming through.
so I am wondering if there is anything I can do to troubleshoot it myself while waiting for a reply from the seller. There is a few notable things that might be the problem but I figured I would ask here to check before I start.
First there is a red wire that looks like it was cut right near the canbus unit it came this way out of the box, the installer said it had power to it, I am wondering if it's supposed to be cut or if reconnecting it could help, also there is a blue wire on the harness that is not connected into the harness also. will attach pictures. (or not because I am not allowed hopefully you can figure out how to see them below...)
red wire ------- pasteboard dot co/MO1wkXJ.jpg
blue wire ------- pasteboard dot co/MO6kqKs.jpg
back of unit ---- pasteboard dot co/MO9x1eI.jpg"

So what Metra Interface Kit...
I know this is an old thread but I have a 2014 Sonata Limited w/ Dimension Amp and android head unit doesn't output audio either with the Amp controller box or spdif box. I believe these boxes that came with it are not working properly. Please inform me of what kit I need to purchase.

Seeing reports...
I'm seeing reports the the hybl-04 is the Metra kit that you have ended up using. Is this correct?

Jy-UL128N2 - Wiring of canbus decoder box

Hi all!
I have just installed a Joying JUL128N2 in my 2007 Alfa Romeo 159.
Overall, I am happy with this unit.
I have read through most of the posts regarding this unit, and that has helped me to solve a lot of issues in the last 3 days. For that, I thank this community!
Anyway, I still haven´t hook up the canbus box to enable my steering wheel controls. I have the following question:
Installation
I have purchased an ISO wiring adapter kit for my car (CTSAR002.2), which includes a canbus decoder box connected inline, (by a plug in one end of the box) between the car side of the wiring and the headunit side. It seems that wires go in and out from this same plug (at least 3 come out and are free)
There is another plug in the opposite end of the box that should be used to connect to specific radio brands. I received a universal version of that cable (CTMULTILEAD.2), which has 3 wires and a 3.5mm jack plug.
Question: Do I need to use the “multilead” patch, or should I use the 3 free wires coming from the front part on the main harness?
In any case, what goes where?
The mentioned cables for reference:
http://www.connects2.co.uk/Product/ProductItem/CTSAR002.2
http://www.connects2.co.uk/Product/ProductItem/CTMULTILEAD.2
Furthermore: is it possible for other car brands, other than VAG group, to send more information to the HU, such as parking assist and other car info?
Thanks very much!

Android Head Unit SC9853 - Nissan connections unsure...

SC9853 8-core Intel Airmont with 64GB / 4GB ram... bought it online... supposed to be suitable for my car model, but I'm a bit unsure, and the Chinese seller did not provide much help yet... no instructions nor manual nor wiring diagram...:
my original car: Nissan Teana 250XV from 2010 (model J32, matches the Maxima A35 dashboard/equipment)
So the top LCD display shows the CD number / Radio station / dual Aircon temperature setting.
The backside Radio/CD player:
(deducted the connections from a Google image from Nissan Frontier)
the dark gray is the Antenna radio, the small white should be the Steering controls, the bottom big connector should be for the AC (should not touch), and the remaining plug is the power/speakers wire.
The 2 connections that went into the top LCD display:
I'm assuming the black one goes into the black connector of the Android harness:
I found similar connections on another post, so I deducted:
It came with 2 USB cables, 1 is 4 pin, the other is 6 pin connector... 1st thought they go at bottom in middle, but from the other post it was for MIC-in ?
it should come with instructions and a wiring diagram?!
Can somebody help with explaining what's what?
it seems the harness has a male and female connector, so the female is to connect to the car cable, and the male goes back into the CD/Radio? so the CD player can still function, it's audio should go through an Aux cable?
The antenna cable has not suitable connection, so I suppose I can keep using the stock radio? there's a cut blue wire on the harness labeled Auto ANT, so I could connect this one to the car cable, though would need to figure out how, looks like it has 2 wires (below is for the newer version model L33, but Radio ANT connection looks identical):
Assuming only 1 of the 2 LCD connections need to be used, one of them is black, so I'm assuming this one goes on the black one of the harness...
Sure hope I can sort this out... biggest issue is the head unit seems to be too long to the back, so I have not been able to reinstall, it sticks out... if I install the GPS it sticks out even further, without the GPS this is how far I get....:
the seller claims it can be installed, they did it before with this kind of unit... so shall try again, but to me it looks like I'm hitting the back of the compartment...
Freaking out as have spent 380 USD on it and it took 2 months to deliver (due to Chinese new year / COVID-19)....
Any help much appreciated, thanks a lot in advance!

If the unit has been special been produced for your car, it should be plug´n play.
All connectors are coded. You are not able to misuse any of them.... So what is your problem now???

Well for one besides the unit turning on nothing works: no sound, also the old radio not working, only short beeps when pressing load/eject CD.
To the Head unit I only connected the main power cable, this one also holds the speakers? So should have sound?
Tried setting the steering wheel controls... Also no luck..
Will try to also connect the brown-blue/white cable which has pin count matching bottom left socket below the RCA socket.
Issue may be this Thailand Teana, steering wheel at right side, most units sold for left side...
You mean coded as in wire colors should match? (Only a few cables are labeled, the sockets are not)
Thanks

ok the seller now confirms these are the connections:
the not marked left bottom and right top supposedly have no function...
Only thing left to try is to disconnect the original car stereo plug, so the Android head unit is connected directly to the car cable without the car Radio connected... but that means the original car radio/cd player is not usable...
could also try to use the AUX cable from the Head Unit's RCA connections and connect it to the head jack of the Radio, suppose should get audio then?
will check the wire colors, suppose they should match the harness wire colors? if the unit would actually physically fit my car could correct the socket wiring so it may work for my car?
(I'm assuming a left hand drive car may have different wiring vs. right hand drive car? as nothing works, except for the screen getting power (no sound, no steering wheel control))

@GregToR
I wrote:
rigattoni said:
All connectors are coded. You are not able to misuse any of them....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That means that the connectors of the cable tree only match to one single hole in the unit.
That has nothing to do with colors of the cables itself. They most probably don´t match.
Just do it, or drive to someone who is able to help you.

rigattoni said:
@GregToR
I wrote:
That means that the connectors of the cable tree only match to one single hole in the unit.
That has nothing to do with colors of the cables itself. They most probably don´t match.
Just do it, or drive to someone who is able to help you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, you are right, each cable has a different unique fit, not interchangeable, but for the AC cable there are 2 wires it both sockets going to 2 pins, but only one of them matches with the harness connector (so the other wire has no counterpart = dead end due to on different pins), so possible wrong wiring in the harness?
if it's truly plug and play, I should have at least sound, I have no sound... so something's wrong... or does the software need configuration to enable sound?
for the steering wheel controls there's a menu to configure the buttons, but nothing happens, there is however a setting to change the impedance, maybe should try that next.
what about the Canbox?
its purpose is normally for it to act like it would be the car, what's its role here? why is it needed if it's installed in the car? I read online normally it's used to diagnose without the need of the physical car to be present.

The CAN-Box is most necessary part in the set up.
It provides Ignition, power for the amp and the possibility to use the steering wheel buttons.
I would say that you should drive to a car repair shop to get it built in.

Do you have a link for the unit?

Seems seller may not know his own device:
Looks like mine, so the cable I didn't connect could be the CAN input.
Will try later on
Seller wants me to go to a shop where they'll cut out a part of my car to make it fit... Should I? Rather keep everything original....
Says this TS9 always is bigger size for heat disapation...
This is the link where I bought it:
ลองเข้ามาดูสินค้า เครื่องเสียงรถยนต์ MP5 Player 10.1 นิ้ว Android 9.0 รถยนต์ Nissan Teana 2008 2009 2011 2012 BT วิทยุ GPS DSP Carplay ลดราคา 10% เหลือ ฿3,645 เท่านั้น! ซื้อได้ในแอป Shopee ตอนนี้เลย! https://shopee.co.th/product/214907970/3213687141?v=6f0&smtt=0.0.5

There is too many of these units out there from sellers that don't give enough information with their products. It leaves the end user scratching their head all too often. I purchased a very similar unit to this. Same thing, no support, no instructions, no manual etc etc.
Did you get it to a shop and were they able to sort?

Noobtrube said:
There is too many of these units out there from sellers that don't give enough information with their products. It leaves the end user scratching their head all too often. I purchased a very similar unit to this. Same thing, no support, no instructions, no manual etc etc.
Did you get it to a shop and were they able to sort?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no, I returned it, as I don't want to cut a piece out of my car, and other sellers say it should not be necessary if the correct unit is installed.
The seller thought me to go to the "Extra Settings" menu to select the right car under "Model", after which it updates the MCU accordingly. After this the only thing I got working was the AC temperature control on the screen, had to set the "left / right Peptide" differently to mirror temp setting so Dual setting matches (left and right is apparently the other way around in a left hand side driving car ("peptide" must be a bad translation as that's part of a protein...).
Is the RCA jack to AUX the only way to get sound through the car speakers? (didn't work either, never got sound... I believe the cable was jamming the original CD/Radio, which didn't function with the head unit in between)
glad I got my money back, and recently found a shop here in Bangkok that can sell and install a proper unit, pheww...

Confirmation on wiring 7862 to Kia Sportage 2011 with digital amp

Hi all, I have an Australian 2011 Kia Sportage Platinum model - I think it was SX / highest spec model in other countries. Apparently the Australian car in 2011 was a little unique in that it had a 6 stack CD but no sat nav on the head unit. There is a factory digital amp and sub woofer located in the rear. As much as I have attempted to get this fact across to suppliers on Aliexpress, I am sure they did not fully understand and have suggested I only need a CAMBUS and I am good to go.
As you can see with the pinout for my radio on connector A I have SPDIF ground, DN and DP. So it is a discrete signal to the amp that decodes what I assume is PCM and then sends it off to the speakers. I have a few questions:
1. Before I install the 7862 Unit, I will check voltage out from Pins 6 and 15 on my factory radio with sound on. I assume this will be less than 5 volts. as per SPDIF coax spec. I will then connect up the 7862 unit, plug in an RCA to the COAX SPDIF out and check voltage. If the wiring loom that I have been sent doesn't work, this COAX out feed fed into my car's wiring loom along with a 12v signal on pin 14 (remote AMP) will get me started. Any thoughts?
2. On Connector A of my original head unit, there are the SPDIF outs but why are there also speaker outs for front and rear left and right if there is a digital signal to the amp? Does this mean that the amp is only feeding the sub woofer and that the fronts and rears are fed directly from the head unit? It seems very strange to me.
3. PIN 9 on Connector A is DETENT. What is that? PIN 14 is Remote AMP. Is this a 12v line to wake up the amp?
4. Chinese Unit wiring shows a CANBUS but I am unsure is the CANBUS has an analog to digital converter? Can anyone shed light on this?
I appreciate any assistance you can offer.

This could help regarding SPDIF: https://www.gencoupe.com/threads/help-spdif-preamp-input-nav-premium.106094/
Are you sure the China head unit has an SPDIF output?
I think your OEM radio supports both. SPDIF and analog output. Or there is a cheaper variant available which only supports analog output. You don't need this connectors when using SPDIF.
I don't know Detent but in another forum they just ignored this pin.
Remote Amp is 12v signal for the amplifier. So you're right.
The canbus converts digital signals from your car to the radio. E.g. Translates the steering wheel buttons to a signal the head unit can interpret.

Hi, thanks for the link.
I am sure the chinese unit I purchased has SPDIF out via TOSLINK and coax but not through the main head unit wiring.
There definately is a cheaper model of my vehicle that didn't have a digital amp but I am suprised that there is both direct digital signal to the amp as well as direct wiring to the speakers. It is very confusing.
I understand CANBUS has a high and low signal but I wasn't sure if they specifically also change digital audio signals as well as well as the standard CAN signals.
I believe some CANBUS may handle both the CAN high / low transfer and have the ability to to convert the analog signal out of the android head unit to an SPDIF line level PCM (assumed) signal that my amp needs.
I guess this is not a common subject here. I might have to wait and do a fair bit of testing before I install.

Connecting a china head unit can be a real challenge, especially because there is zero support from the seller.
I've seen the amplifier has separate inputs for navigation voice (pin 9 and 23). Sorry for the German link:
Kia Sportage - Externer verstärker Bauteile und bauteile-Übersicht - AVN-System
Maybe some audio signals will be transferred analog. You could connect the new device without the analog audio connections to check if they are really required.
Can't help you regarding CANBUS but I hope you keep us updated and give some updates of your "project".
Maybe you're interested:
Junsun V1 MTK8259 - the adapter battle (Kia Ceed Jd) / OEM camera usage / reference thread
I bought the Junsun V1 head unit but my Kia Ceed JD had a OEM nav unit which isn't directly compatible to Junsun V1. So I re-wired the wiring harness based on the pins description of my original OEM navigation unit. I'm only modifying the wiring...
forum.xda-developers.com

Thanks again. The problem I have is that my head unit has SPDIF out, USB out rear cam out but all connected to the two white plugs. This unit seems different to all the US, Europe and other Asia models. It might be why I am getting so many blank stares.
I'm even having trouble finding an Australian edition of the wiring diagrams.
Your helpful link to the QL model German manual also has an SL model which is my model. Unfortunately my radio is not amongst the option in the manual. I see radios offer Sirrus so I am assuming that is a US model.
I might just need to go back to first principals and really understand my head unit before I do any installing. How is your install going?

My installation was a little tricky because I found three wringing diagrams which could be the correct one.
Fortunately all the wringing diagrams had ILLU and REVERSE on different positions so I was able to identify the correct one with a multimeter. But I wasn't able to find the wringing diagram with the model name of the device.
I have a Kia and finally the needed wiring diagram was from a Hiunday device. Someone crosslinked from a Kia forum to a Hiunday forum.
I had to completely re-wire and enhance the black plug of the China head unit because AUX and MIC are separate outputs on the China nav unit.
On the other side I had to remove USB from the black connector because this is a separate plug in the Kia.
For you the USB pins may are another good pins to check if the writing diagram is the right one.

I'm sure you already found this regarding the DETENT mystery:
Any radio wiring experts know what "Detent" leads are for?
Any radio wiring experts know what "Detent" leads are for?
grassrootsmotorsports.com
But I think DETENT is PARKING/HAND BREAK. So that's easy to verify.

TorstenH said:
I'm sure you already found this regarding the DETENT mystery:
But I think DETENT is PARKING/HAND BREAK. So that's easy to verify.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think there is still a little mystery for me, but I will work it out.
TorstenH said:
My installation was a little tricky because I found three wringing diagrams which could be the correct one.
Fortunately all the wringing diagrams had ILLU and REVERSE on different positions so I was able to identify the correct one with a multimeter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You were lucky to have the option to eliminate 2 of the 3 wiring diagrams. I will do the same before I start wiring the new HU.
For you the USB pins may are another good pins to check if the writing diagram is the right one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I will be doing a double check of everything.
I *think* that I have worked out why there is SPDIF line level + and - to the amp as well as wiring direct to the speakers from the factory HU.
I *think* that when I use and AUX input from USB or 3.5mm which is analog input, the factory headunit does no conversion and just amplifies the analog signal and sends it to the 4 main speakers. It will be simple to check this.
If I am correct, only CD and radio singal gets converted to digital line level SPDIF PCM then gets sent to the amp.
As my radio has a COAX SPDIF out, I might be able to make a single RCA to double RCA cable to send the signal to the amp. Or I might just patch in the SPDIF COAX RCA into the main ISO plug directly. I think having the COAX SPDIF out from my new HU will give me a lot more option.
I need to check if the CANBUS converts the analog signal to SPDIF line level or if the Chinese wiring just bypasses the amp and sub woofer or does something else again.
My new HU will arrive tomorrow of Monday so I will get time to study the wiring and make some checks. I will be sure to document all of the things I find. I just need to make the time to do it.

Well after a quick plug in and test, I am not getting any signal to amp regardless of how well I have followed the supplier's suggestions.
I think the standard signal to the amp id not happening so the amp is not waking up.
Canbus is for a 2015 Sportage but steering wheel options work with the volume working in opposite.
Will investigate more tomorrow.

Installed the radio today. The radio supplier's suggested installation did not work as I was sure it wouldn't.
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
2.The supplier actually sent me quite a bit more than I was expecting. There were extra patch cables and an external mic. This was nice, but I actually bought a mic thinking that one did not come with the kit. It was only a few dollars though.
3.There is very little installation info. The info by way of photos I was sent did not match the cabling that I had.I would have liked to get an understanding of all the pin outs including the CANBUS but I am yet to receive this.
3. I actually removed my factory radio last night and just powered up the unit. I didn't realise that the default setting in the software is to only put the unit in standby or only turned off the screen. This drained my battery over about 18 hours. I needed a jump start to get the car going and I now have the battery on a trickle charge to repair it.
This default setting allows instant on for the radio. By changing to the option for a three second delay, the radio needs to boot on car starting.
4. Boot times are quick. I have not timed it yet, but I would guess 20 seconds. Bluetooth connection takes about another 20 seconds after that. I will make a video of it and more when I have used the unit a bit more.
5. The radio fascia brackets weren't installed properly. Just make sure to check them before you install. The screws really should be a bit longer to stop threading the fascia mounts.
6. The fascia is not a perfect match for my dash in colour but it still looks good. The fit is not perfect but good enough. I might remove the dash again tomorrow and just pack one side of the fascia so it is more flush fitting but it would only be 3-5mm.
All in all I am very satisfied. The response of the unit is great and sound quality seems good. Bluetooth and wireless connected well and a quick test of the 5ghz frequency wifi tethered to my phone gave 6mb/s when I was downloading the Waze app. I will test more soon.

ludditefornow said:
Installed the radio today. The radio supplier's suggested installation did not work as I was sure it wouldn't.
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
2.The supplier actually sent me quite a bit more than I was expecting. There were extra patch cables and an external mic. This was nice, but I actually bought a mic thinking that one did not come with the kit. It was only a few dollars though.
3.There is very little installation info. The info by way of photos I was sent did not match the cabling that I had.I would have liked to get an understanding of all the pin outs including the CANBUS but I am yet to receive this.
3. I actually removed my factory radio last night and just powered up the unit. I didn't realise that the default setting in the software is to only put the unit in standby or only turned off the screen. This drained my battery over about 18 hours. I needed a jump start to get the car going and I now have the battery on a trickle charge to repair it.
This default setting allows instant on for the radio. By changing to the option for a three second delay, the radio needs to boot on car starting.
4. Boot times are quick. I have not timed it yet, but I would guess 20 seconds. Bluetooth connection takes about another 20 seconds after that. I will make a video of it and more when I have used the unit a bit more.
5. The radio fascia brackets weren't installed properly. Just make sure to check them before you install. The screws really should be a bit longer to stop threading the fascia mounts.
6. The fascia is not a perfect match for my dash in colour but it still looks good. The fit is not perfect but good enough. I might remove the dash again tomorrow and just pack one side of the fascia so it is more flush fitting but it would only be 3-5mm.
All in all I am very satisfied. The response of the unit is great and sound quality seems good. Bluetooth and wireless connected well and a quick test of the 5ghz frequency wifi tethered to my phone gave 6mb/s when I was downloading the Waze app. I will test more soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To 1: Isn't there a setting in Android car menu where you can assign the buttons to specific functions?
To 3: same topic here. I can set Sleep to on or off. But can't set time how long to sleep before shutdown.

TorstenH said:
To 1: Isn't there a setting in Android car menu where you can assign the buttons to specific functions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is that function and I did try to use it. I was long pressing on the physical button before pressing the on screen as suggested but there was no change. I assumed the button remap is only useful for non Canbus driven buttons. I could be wrong, though.
To 3: same topic here. I can set Sleep to on or off. But can't set time how long to sleep before shutdown.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I too would like a full understanding of the sleep function. Things like when sleep starts, when shut down starts etc would be useful.

ludditefornow said:
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope you got this sorted. If not, have you tried this?

ludditefornow said:
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I Installed in my SL Sportage Platinum today and have no sound and no reversing camera. Do you have a photo of how you wired from the SPDIF on the unit to the factory connector?
Did you keep the factory camera? If so, what did you do to get these working? I think my unit is slightly different as I don't have the small clock.

Storrsy said:
I Installed in my SL Sportage Platinum today and have no sound and no reversing camera. Do you have a photo of how you wired from the SPDIF on the unit to the factory connector?
Did you keep the factory camera? If so, what did you do to get these working? I think my unit is slightly different as I don't have the small clock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you use the coax out method? The Kia amp requires am PCM digital signal sent on two wires as mentioned above.
Get an RCA male male cable. Cut on end and strip until you see two bare wires. These bare wires will patch into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) of your car's wiring loom. These are the wires to the amp.
Add this male connector end of the RCA cable into the RCA digital out on the head unit. Check for sound.
My reversing camera is built into my rear view mirror so the wiring is not connected to the radio. And yes, I found the switch for volume, but thanks for letting me know. It might help someone else.

ludditefornow said:
Did you use the coax out method? The Kia amp requires am PCM digital signal sent on two wires as mentioned above.
Get an RCA male male cable. Cut on end and strip until you see two bare wires. These bare wires will patch into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) of your car's wiring loom. These are the wires to the amp.
Add this male connector end of the RCA cable into the RCA digital out on the head unit. Check for sound.
My reversing camera is built into my rear view mirror so the wiring is not connected to the radio. And yes, I found the switch for volume, but thanks for letting me know. It might help someone else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Success!!! I was able to get the amp working thanks to this thread. I was also able to get the camera working by splicing the 'unused' green reverse wire from the supplied harness to the brown reverse signal wire in the CANBUS connection. (I noted that in the some of the offical images the wire was pink.)

Peeps, did you have to connect the remote amp (12v positive?) or SPDIF ground (12v negative?) I’m almost there just no sound.. I’ve connected coax out to pins 6&15 but nothing

From the modifed coax cable coming out of your head unit, what voltage are you getting on either wire when playing audio?
If you aren't getting a signal, then there is a software setting (that I can't think of right now) or another issue.
And I have not connected the remote amp wire. Clear photos help a lot if you have followup questions.

Zero volts

Then the headunit is not passing a signal to the spdif RCA out for some reason

Navtree Head Unit Battery Issue

Hi, New to the site and a greyhead who knows nothing about the electronics of these things. I installed a Navitree Y1E Android 11 4core 2+32GB Car DVD player for Ford Focus 2 2004-2011 audio for car video AM FM RDS 4G WIFI BT in my 201 Ford Focus. All appeared well as fitting was easy. All looked great and now I have found there is a constant live feed to the unit that is the possibe cause of a flat battery. My son is a mechanic and accepts he is not electronically knowledgeable, but he tested the wires and found a Yellow wire that was live and for memory, but there was a red wire that was permantly live and should be a switch feed. Can anyone advise if they have had experience with this model (Direct from China) and what is happening? Appreciate any help.

Subbieatspal said:
Hi, New to the site and a greyhead who knows nothing about the electronics of these things. I installed a Navitree Y1E Android 11 4core 2+32GB Car DVD player for Ford Focus 2 2004-2011 audio for car video AM FM RDS 4G WIFI BT in my 201 Ford Focus. All appeared well as fitting was easy. All looked great and now I have found there is a constant live feed to the unit that is the possibe cause of a flat battery. My son is a mechanic and accepts he is not electronically knowledgeable, but he tested the wires and found a Yellow wire that was live and for memory, but there was a red wire that was permantly live and should be a switch feed. Can anyone advise if they have had experience with this model (Direct from China) and what is happening? Appreciate any help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Guys asnyone able to help. No help from supplier and looks like I will have to ditch the headunit..

Why would you ditch the head unit? It needs the permanent power on the yellow wire and a switched feed on the red wire. Your vehicle is currently not providing this so either you have wired the unit to the wrong feed or there currently isn't one so you'd need to find a connection in the vehicle which does switch with the key and run it to the red wire. As the red wire is only a sensing input it doesn't need heavy wiring.
It is not a head unit fault.
Note some vehicles supply the switching information to the stock head unit via the CANbus, yours may be like that and would explain the lack of a switched feed at present but you can easily overcome this.

Mr.TT_NZ said:
Why would you ditch the head unit? It needs the permanent power on the yellow wire and a switched feed on the red wire. Your vehicle is currently not providing this so either you have wired the unit to the wrong feed or there currently isn't one so you'd need to find a connection in the vehicle which does switch with the key and run it to the red wire. As the red wire is only a sensing input it doesn't need heavy wiring.
It is not a head unit fault.
Note some vehicles supply the switching information to the stock head unit via the CANbus, yours may be like that and would explain the lack of a switched feed at present but you can easily overcome this.
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Thanks
Mr.TT_NZ​Thanks for replying..appreciate comments..The red wire is going into the canbus via a 20 pin connector if it is cut the problem seems solved, so are you saying that I should have a switch cable run to that? See image for wiring.

Ah so you do have a CANbus module, I believe there are some issues with switching via those modules but I've never had one to play with.
You could try removing the red wire from the CANbus module and connecting a switched feed to it instead (not as well as) so the head unit only gets its switch control from your new wire. Maybe that CANbus module is not exactly correct for your model of car, there are so many variations even within a certain model that it is hard to see how the people who write the software for the modules can keep up with all of them.

Mr.TT_NZ said:
Ah so you do have a CANbus module, I believe there are some issues with switching via those modules but I've never had one to play with.
You could try removing the red wire from the CANbus module and connecting a switched feed to it instead (not as well as) so the head unit only gets its switch control from your new wire. Maybe that CANbus module is not exactly correct for your model of car, there are so many variations even within a certain model that it is hard to see how the people who write the software for the modules can keep up with all of them.
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Thanks again. I will try this...did a bit off research on the canbus and there is no UK retailer who will sell me a Ford canbus and guarantee it will work! Most said it would be a sale with no return.. Hey Ho..