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How is the head unit of a brand called Naviskauto?

Does anyone know about the brand Naviskauto?XDA seems has no much about this.I'm planning to have one android head units for my VW.And accidentally got a promo code of this store from Dontpayfull.
I need GPS of course,bluetooth,iphone,ipad. .Any advice,guys?

Naivskauto Unit C250
summerof said:
Does anyone know about the brand Naviskauto?XDA seems has no much about this.I'm planning to have one android head units for my VW.And accidentally got a promo code of this store from Dontpayfull.
I need GPS of course,bluetooth,iphone,ipad. .Any advice,guys?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This unit is the same as pumpkin RQ0255 unit. There is more information available from their support page and is directly applicable to the Naviskauto unit you have.
I installed this unit with a Metra dash kit into a 2003 G35 Sedan with Steering wheel controls (kit required) / the stock Bose amplifier (audio interface kit required) / and reverse Cam. All the functions you want are available. I assume you want to connect iphone/ipad via bluetooth , it works but the bluetooth interface for music isn't great , and maybe a 3rd party app is available. There is an "IPOD" USB connection through a 30pin connector. (Overall, music quality is very good but not as good has name brand head units for USB/Bluetooth/Radio. ) I use an Iphone 4 as an Ipod over USB, but you should be able to use a lightning convertor cable and use newer iphones/ipods. The music interface is better on USB but still falls short if you're looking for iphone/ipad useability. You can connect the head unit to a wireless hotspot on iphone/ipad or any device with this function. You can also connect via USB to a 3G dongle but the supported devices are limited, (more reading for you.)
GPS works great and the iGo Navi app provided is really good and does not require an online connection. You may need to do some more reading to get maps / poi functioning to your needs depending on your location.
It's my first android head unit install and it was flawless for me. I invested lots of time reading to extract experience from this board and others I am generally familiar with car sound systems, electronics, soldering so I was just a matter of understanding the wiring interfaces for this unit, which are standard.
I'm a newbie on Android , so I'm not experimenting with ROMs yet but there is a ton of info on what is possible with mods and replacement apps for various functions.
so, bottom line, I give the unit a 8/10 overall, but the value for money from Amazon I give it 9/10.

Chieftan123 said:
This unit is the same as pumpkin RQ0255 unit. There is more information available from their support page and is directly applicable to the Naviskauto unit you have.
I installed this unit with a Metra dash kit into a 2003 G35 Sedan with Steering wheel controls (kit required) / the stock Bose amplifier (audio interface kit required) / and reverse Cam. All the functions you want are available. I assume you want to connect iphone/ipad via bluetooth , it works but the bluetooth interface for music isn't great , and maybe a 3rd party app is available. There is an "IPOD" USB connection through a 30pin connector. (Overall, music quality is very good but not as good has name brand head units for USB/Bluetooth/Radio. ) I use an Iphone 4 as an Ipod over USB, but you should be able to use a lightning convertor cable and use newer iphones/ipods. The music interface is better on USB but still falls short if you're looking for iphone/ipad useability. You can connect the head unit to a wireless hotspot on iphone/ipad or any device with this function. You can also connect via USB to a 3G dongle but the supported devices are limited, (more reading for you.)
GPS works great and the iGo Navi app provided is really good and does not require an online connection. You may need to do some more reading to get maps / poi functioning to your needs depending on your location.
It's my first android head unit install and it was flawless for me. I invested lots of time reading to extract experience from this board and others I am generally familiar with car sound systems, electronics, soldering so I was just a matter of understanding the wiring interfaces for this unit, which are standard.
I'm a newbie on Android , so I'm not experimenting with ROMs yet but there is a ton of info on what is possible with mods and replacement apps for various functions.
so, bottom line, I give the unit a 8/10 overall, but the value for money from Amazon I give it 9/10.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your information.You're more experienced than me as I can tell. According to the review,it seems a good choice.I will look at more and make a "experienced" choice,I think.thanks again,man.:good:

Joying 5.1 HU, USB connections

Re Post from MTCB forum,
Just installed a Joying:
. SKU: JY-UL124 . Quad Core Android 5.1.1 Lollipop OS Capacitive 7" High Definition for Universal Double Din . CPU: RK3188 1.6GHz Cortex A9 Quad Core, Resolution 1024*600. RAM：DDR3 1G, 16 GB memory
To my 2014 Australian Hyundai Elantra.
I waited to get the latest HU from Joying that has an unrated mother board and USB/ Comms board. With Lollipop 5.1.1. the unit performs very well with none of the problem previously mentioned on these pages. The internal and external mics are clear and the Bluetooth systems are perfect. Unit has been rooted and I don't seem to need for apps so I won't changed the software now.
The dimming for the button and the screen to follow the vehicles rheostat was fixed by making a circuit to invert and amplify the rheostat output to the HU ill line. Work's well, Kudos to the guys at the Subaru forums.
I had one bug fixed by Joying when the GPS nav was muted whenever I plugged in the DVR front camera. Joying quickly sent me a link to re flash my firmware and the problem was fixed. I have them currently looking into a bug when I view the DVR input shown on the HU I get lots of flashing to the screen in all pixel settings. I have been told this will be fixed in the next firmware update soon.
One problem that I can't solve is when I try to use my vehicles Multimedia Jack located in my center console. There is a Aux and USB jack there. All wiring from console to HU is complete. If I connect a USB stick to the Jack in the console then then HU struggles to connect and gives up. If I interrupt the USB plug and socket behind the HU then I am able to use the USB correctly. Looking at the car wiring diagrams there is a amplifier cct behind the Multimedia Jack supposedly to amp up the USB to HU. Doesn't seem to work?
Any ideas appreciated.
Duke
CadillacMike
19th May 2016, 04:28 PM |#2
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i have nothing to add, other than interested to see what the result is. Are you saying that your car comes with a built in hub in the console, and you are trying to make that USB port in the console work to the Joying head unit? my vehicle is similar, and I would like that to work as well
Update
Yes I have a console hub I guess.
The book calls it a multimedia center. Just an Aux port and a USB port or Jack in the tidy bin in the center console. If I by pass the Jacks and directly put the USB stick into the USB tail from the radio then it works fine. When I plug into the console port it tries to read it and fails. The HU then reports a read fail, have tried other known working USB sticks.
I have inspected behind the console jacks and found a cct board attached to the Jacks and then to the car wiring. From looking at the diagrams of the car previous to mine I see a cct board containing what looks like an amplifier. Tracing the car wiring to the radio input connectors seems to be OK and the wiring correct. Voltages at the radio connector are right in that there is 5v +ve, negative - earth and the center pins are data as they should be.
The console Jacks
w.hemanual.org/multimedia_jack_description_and_operation-2037.html
The wiring for same (mine is same but more complex)
w.hemanual.org/multimedia_jack_schematic_diagrams-2036.html
Really bugs me not to be able to access that USB input Jack esp as the radio is a great unit.
Duke
bsavoir22
21st May 2016, 07:05 AM |#4
Senior Member
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You need to post this question in the MTCD (Lollipop) hardware thread. This thread is for MTCB (KitKat) units. The hardware in the MTCD headunits are very different than the MTCB headunits.
Thanks and done - I still have the same problem
Duke

Hello, i'm interest in tthis unit,https://www.carjoying.com/quad-core-android-car-radio/quad-core-vw-android-car-radio/joying-2016-latest-aftermarket-european-warehouse-lollipop-android-5-1-1-car-head-unit-autoradio-quad-core-double-din-gps-navigation-system-stereo-radio-support-reverse-camera-dvr-g.html and dont' know if it's the same you have. Can you tell me if you have some lag problems or something? does the hardware handles well the software?

Bob
Seems the same. Same CPU, platform, Specs etc. I think being a "VW Golf Passat Jetta" model from Joying it probably has some firmware in it to pick up your particular car's Bluetooth connections. The front surround looks like it has been added to my "Universal" type to fit neatly into your dashboard. The case and rear connections are identical. I see they have added a CanBus box which my car did not need but looks like yours does. There is probably a harness with it to fit your wiring loom.
if you run a lot of apps at once there is some lag not bad though. Like if you had the radio on and the GPS on and DVR the traffic then that's a pretty big load so then there is some lag but you get used to it. You might have to wait a second before an icon or screen switch becomes available. When running only a few apps at once there is no lag issues.
I like mine a lot, would not replace it with the OEM.
The problem mentioned below is one with my car only. My car's remote console jacks for the AUX and USB have their own preamp so I have by passed them and put in a aftermarket remote Aux USB and that works ok.
I am half way through doing a write up on the modifications and install if anyone is interested.
Duke

Hey mate, does it run Android auto? Trying to figure out which units can and can't. Looks like any running Android 5 can but trying to figure it out. Thanks!

Pumpkin 8 Oreo Sound Quality help USB DAC??

Hi all. Id thought Id start another thread regarding the SQ of this device.
Iv always used Alpine Head Units for last 20 years but bit the bullet and bought this device to try and bring my ICE into the future a bit.
My system is HU - RCA's - C-DSP6x8 - RCA's - 3xJL amps - Focal Utopias (6w2/TN51)/2x JL ZR800's/1x JL 13W3
+ a shed load of experience with Room EQ wizard and at least 2 years of my life I won't get back!
In comparison I can say the SQ of the pumpkin sucks, also a bit of ground noise I never had before.
Will a USB DAC work with this unit?
Which one? I read a thread where someone used a USB to SPDIF converter board with Texas instruments chip on board, very simple which is good and cost less than a tenner from Amazon! then there's dragonfly dongles, then there's miniDSP's MiniDAC8. Price range between £10 & £200
Also I was always under the impression if you use a digital signal from your source unit you cannot control the volume from that source unit as bits and bytes cannot be attenuated so the volume control would be from the DSP(via the wired remote)
Can anyone suggest a tried and tested setup for getting a clean signal from this source to my DSP that wont break the bank, (Bit One out of the question) I think Iv spent enough on my system now as its probably worth more than my car! (B7 audi a4 3.0tdi)
Thanks
ps I am a complete Android programming noob but can learn with a bit of help

from Lollipop there is dac native support on all devices, so it should work.
in joying headunit the radio and bluetooth not work with the dac, u can add small speaker for the bt, or connect another rca pair to the sound processor if the pumpkin also suffer this problem.
i recommend the hifimediy, be aware that spdif its digital connection so its really not important which dac u choose , the conversion from analog to digital will process on your c-dsp
u can see dac support here:
http://www.extreamsd.com/index.php/technology/usb-audio-driver

Hi and thanks for reply. I looked at the DAC you use and read through that link. Another good thing about the external DAC is any analogue ground noise from the device should be isolated. There is ground noise on this units RCA outputs (to be expected on a device in this price range) once you rig up the bluetooth/radio via rca's anywhere into the chain that noise will be re-introduced. I'm not sure there's a way round this issue but its a minor one.
The HiFimeDIY also has spdif out so if connecting to my DSP with digital coax I assume the volume pot wouldn't work? Not a problem since any DAC will have it own analogue volume control I can use the master volume (after DSP). Still if I connected BT/radio via RCA that volume would be controlled by the device. Unless somehow I set everything up for max volume and use just the master to control everything. I have a lot more learning experimenting ahead!
This could be a deal breaker:- Will spotify ouput be routed through the DAC?

mamba76 said:
Hi and thanks for reply. I looked at the DAC you use and read through that link. Another good thing about the external DAC is any analogue ground noise from the device should be isolated. There is ground noise on this units RCA outputs (to be expected on a device in this price range) once you rig up the bluetooth/radio via rca's anywhere into the chain that noise will be re-introduced. I'm not sure there's a way round this issue but its a minor one.
The HiFimeDIY also has spdif out so if connecting to my DSP with digital coax I assume the volume pot wouldn't work? Not a problem since any DAC will have it own analogue volume control I can use the master volume (after DSP). Still if I connected BT/radio via RCA that volume would be controlled by the device. Unless somehow I set everything up for max volume and use just the master to control everything. I have a lot more learning experimenting ahead!
This could be a deal breaker:- Will spotify ouput be routed through the DAC?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it will.

Thx GTX its got be worth pursuing then
The model of my unit is AE0273B on autopumpkin. Does anyone know for sure that BT/radio/DAB wouldn't be routed through a USB DAC? Would be interesting to know why?
Should I be looking to root this so I can have Viper4Android installed or Neutron player? I just want to unlock the potential for quality audio out, I dont need to tweek the signal or colour it I would like the output flat but a good PEQ app would be helpful.
Using a multimeter and oscilloscope I swept a pure 0db sine wave through the Alpine and the AC voltage from the pre-out only deviated by about 0.01vac from 30hz upto 10k then it climbed a bit more. Done same thing on the Pumpkin and highest unclipped Vac is 1.2vac at 1khz, at 30hz it dropped to 0.5v and same with higher frequencies, just like a sad smile lol. I want a DAC with a flat frequency response and a 4volt pre-out.
The floor noise / ground noise was made worse because I had to increase input gain cos of the crappy pre-outs.
I could do with some help customizing this for quality audio so if anyone's in the same boat and wants to trade ideas Im open to test things on my device and help out where I can.
what apps & DAC's work for you? digital or analogue cabling? What DSPs? Anything regarding SQ is interesting to me
I think Iv taken one step forward and 2 steps back but I'm committed now lol.

Just found and read through this thread - https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...io-problems-discussion-thread-t3657637/page11
Aluver seems to be able to fix this issue.
The pumpkin is still a great bit of kit for the price and to be fair I used the buggy built in amplifier app to adjust the eq to a V shape, pulling down 1khz (in the middle)as the lowest point (-6db) and as no surprise I think this has cured the problem this HU caused with the SQ. At low volume my target curve in REW appeared the same its only at high volume when the pre-amp output deviations are at their most extreme (sad smile) which is why it sounded too harsh.
Im really not sure if I would be able to tell the difference from a 100% digital system with high quality DAC and my old alpine setup but it does solve a few problems.
Still have excessive ground noise and amp pop when ignition turned off (never had before) so not sure if Ill be keeping this unit, so maybe up for UK sale in near future!

Really interesting thread, are you planning to buy the DAC finally ? It would be interesting to try a DAC, just to get rid of the ground noise for example.
Seeing your setup, if the source has crappy output you will hear it right away so your EQ modification is quite surprising that it improves the quality that much ! I'm still thinking about pulling the trigger on a model similar as you but very afraid of sound quality. Still trying to decide between Joying Intel or Xtrons PX5

Im going to give it a bit more time to see if I can get it to behave. Iv has this set up with the alpine for a couple of years and am always tweaking / improving so Im very aware of any change. If it hurts your ears at high volume then somethings wrong. The alpine's FR was completely flat and clips just over 2v, the pumpkin clips at different voltages (max 1.3v) but on this unit anything above vol 20 with pure tones will clip, its just a pain in the ass but if you always eq your car with high volume in mind for me that's where it matters. Dont rely on tone generator apps their 0db is not accurate I burnt the test wave files from JL audio website to CD as a reference then match it with Room EQs generator so can sweep any frequency.
Yeah Im gonna look for a DAC would be nice if you could control the DACs volume from steering wheel! And the auto switching rca's it doable or might as well go digital to dsp not sure yet its all a bit of a headache lol, but the units capabilities makes it worth trying. I will post any solutions on here if I find them but may be some time.
Im still trying to work out what this unit gives me that an alpine ilx-f903 (or similar) won't, apart from alot of spare change!
Im sure Iv read pros and cons for either them units but don't know enough about whats inside. I know mines a px5. I would be looking for something that can output everything through USB but not sure it exists.

ordered a minidsp usb streamer from amazon £60 delivered +van damme digi cable. First step see what it does out of the box then install 'USB Audio Driver Pro' app which will bypass the native android drivers??
I think this requires usb debugging mode to be enabled in developer options.
I found a switching module that might come in handy - https://www.tindie.com/products/Beni_Skate/automatic-spdif-opticalrca-audio-switch/#product-reviews
If anyone understands what Im trying to do and can foresee what needs to be done regarding operating system changes I would definately appreciate any advice as Iv no experience at all with the programming side of things i.e changing audio policies, etc...
I should be playing with this again at weekend if all the bits arrive

RoNeReR said:
from Lollipop there is dac native support on all devices, so it should work.
in joying headunit the radio and bluetooth not work with the dac, u can add small speaker for the bt, or connect another rca pair to the sound processor if the pumpkin also suffer this problem.
i recommend the hifimediy, be aware that spdif its digital connection so its really not important which dac u choose , the conversion from analog to digital will process on your c-dsp
u can see dac support here:
http://www.extreamsd.com/index.php/technology/usb-audio-driver
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi RoNeReR. I see your usb dac outputs on analogue rca's. Do you still control the volume from the pumpkin?
Thx

Well as promised I will update this thread with my progress to get my system setup with the pumpkin.
I got my mini streamer but digi cable not arrived yet.
So I enabled developer options which was easy but couldn't find the menu anywhere afterwards, eventually downloaded an app call 'developer options' which does what is says on the tin. I found usb debugging mode was already on then went to 'usb configuration' and set to 'Audio'. Plugged in my ministream and was expecting the audio from spotify to go quiet as is should now be trying to route through the streamer but it didn't appear to change anything. I get a feeling when I eventually get the cable and connect to the dsp I will still have nothing. Anyone know what else I need to do to make audio goes through USB? ASIO drivers?
As I said Iv no experience with android OS but Im learning more and more things, so happy days!

mamba76 said:
Well as promised I will update this thread with my progress to get my system setup with the pumpkin.
I got my mini streamer but digi cable not arrived yet.
So I enabled developer options which was easy but couldn't find the menu anywhere afterwards, eventually downloaded an app call 'developer options' which does what is says on the tin. I found usb debugging mode was already on then went to 'usb configuration' and set to 'Audio'. Plugged in my ministream and was expecting the audio from spotify to go quiet as is should now be trying to route through the streamer but it didn't appear to change anything. I get a feeling when I eventually get the cable and connect to the dsp I will still have nothing. Anyone know what else I need to do to make audio goes through USB? ASIO drivers?
As I said Iv no experience with android OS but Im learning more and more things, so happy days!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is the software and hardware combination needs modifications (software) to generally work. We have this working on the joying Intel, and hopefully soon on the joying px5 (FYT based) units. Nother brands might not be possible depending on the original manufacturers programming.
If other users with your unit, maybe they have experience. Generally only working on the joying with Xposed properly.

gtxaspec said:
The problem is the software and hardware combination needs modifications (software) to generally work. We have this working on the joying Intel, and hopefully soon on the joying px5 (FYT based) units. Nother brands might not be possible depending on the original manufacturers programming.
If other users with your unit, maybe they have experience. Generally only working on the joying with Xposed properly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see. I read a post where 'Aluver' says he got usb output working on app media and usb fobs but not on BT/radio/DAB (which went throught the MCU instead of DAC?) so assumed it was doable with a few changes to audio policy. Thinking about it not sure if the thread was referring to my HW/SW. Ill read the thread again but got lost in the jargen which I half understand.
So it looks like I'm just gonna have to wait till someone works out a fix.
So PX5 is the hardware and Oreo the software. Whats FYT based? Can this unit be rooted easily yet?
Thanks

mamba76 said:
I see. I read a post where 'Aluver' says he got usb output working on app media and usb fobs but not on BT/radio/DAB (which went throught the MCU instead of DAC?) so assumed it was doable with a few changes to audio policy. Thinking about it not sure if the thread was referring to my HW/SW. Ill read the thread again but got lost in the jargen which I half understand.
So it looks like I'm just gonna have to wait till someone works out a fix.
So PX5 is the hardware and Oreo the software. Whats FYT based? Can this unit be rooted easily yet?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are there any car android devices out there, chinese or otherwise, that allow for routing ALL audio digitally?
Any HW/SW setups know to work?
What about the latest 'NewsMy NR3001'?

mamba76 said:
I see. I read a post where 'Aluver' says he got usb output working on app media and usb fobs but not on BT/radio/DAB (which went throught the MCU instead of DAC?) so assumed it was doable with a few changes to audio policy. Thinking about it not sure if the thread was referring to my HW/SW. Ill read the thread again but got lost in the jargen which I half understand.
So it looks like I'm just gonna have to wait till someone works out a fix.
So PX5 is the hardware and Oreo the software. Whats FYT based? Can this unit be rooted easily yet?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FYT is the OEM manufacturer for the system on module (SoM) that powers certain head units (that contains the CPU and memory etc)
Px5 is the CPU made by rockchips.

gtxaspec said:
FYT is the OEM manufacturer for the system on module (SoM) that powers certain head units (that contains the CPU and memory etc)
Px5 is the CPU made by rockchips.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Whats the model of Joying intel you have working? I assume there is still the problem of bluetooth / voice & radio still not being routed through USB on this as well?
I connected my XP laptop to the ministreamer then to DSP (with vanne dam spdif coax) and played some flac files and it sounds great, noise floor is zero! Shame I cant find a device other than my phone to output a dam digital signal for everything!:crying:!
PS: Android 8 Oreo + all extras for sale... £200 anyone?? (comes with dabonwheels DAB external whip aerial, original in dustbin) Will drop in a B6 / B7 Audi A4 like factory does.

mamba76 said:
Whats the model of Joying intel you have working? I assume there is still the problem of bluetooth / voice & radio still not being routed through USB on this as well?
I connected my XP laptop to the ministreamer then to DSP (with vanne dam spdif coax) and played some flac files and it sounds great, noise floor is zero! Shame I cant find a device other than my phone to output a dam digital signal for everything!:crying:!
PS: Android 8 Oreo + all extras for sale... £200 anyone?? (comes with dabonwheels DAB external whip aerial, original in dustbin) Will drop in a B6 / B7 Audi A4 like factory does.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the joying Intel that fits into the b7 a4 as well. On their site, and yeah no radio or Bluetooth yet via dsp.

mamba76 said:
Whats the model of Joying intel you have working? I assume there is still the problem of bluetooth / voice & radio still not being routed through USB on this as well?
I connected my XP laptop to the ministreamer then to DSP (with vanne dam spdif coax) and played some flac files and it sounds great, noise floor is zero! Shame I cant find a device other than my phone to output a dam digital signal for everything!:crying:!
PS: Android 8 Oreo + all extras for sale... £200 anyone?? (comes with dabonwheels DAB external whip aerial, original in dustbin) Will drop in a B6 / B7 Audi A4 like factory does.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh too bad you can't even get the spotify output on the dac? Did you try another dac like hifimediy using optical cable?

gtxaspec said:
I have the joying Intel that fits into the b7 a4 as well. On their site, and yeah no radio or Bluetooth yet via dsp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info gtx.. You know a hell of a lot more than me on these things. If you could suggest a head unit thats a safe bet for what Im trying to do Id appreciate any links / model numbers. I bet there's more than one joying intel out there and dont want to make the same mistake twice

Hypnox99 said:
Oh too bad you can't even get the spotify output on the dac? Did you try another dac like hifimediy using optical cable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi. its not the dac thats the problem its that no one can get the output through the usb cable to start with. At least not yet but sure some very clever ppl on here will figure it out:fingers-crossed:

New Member - Semi-Audiophile Joying Headunit Setup

Hi all,
New member but long time observer.
I’m finally dipping my toe into the Android Headunit waters, and will use this as a log of what I get up to as well as the many questions I will have due to finding it quite difficult to source specific info on a good-sounding setup in my generation of VW Polo (6C).
My setup will initially entail a current VW-specific Joying HU running the intel chip, Android 8, and 4gb of ram, all the while using the supplied cabling to connect to the factory speaker and CANBUS looms.
I’ve chosen this HU because of its SPDIF output, and will eventually run it to a converter so I can output an optical signal to a Audison amplifier for the best possible signal.
From there I will use the amp to run a set of Morel front splits and rear coax.
I have a Focal sub, but another dedicated amp and enclosure will be required. So this will happen later.
So for now I’ll install the Morel splits and HU, and progress from there. .
My first question: whats the most responsive OBD2 transmitter that you would recommend to use with this HU?
And does anyone know what the new gen Joying HU RCA voltage is?
Cheers in advance!

From what I have read Joying is having issues with OBD2 on the new HU's. They are working on it and are going to come out with new firmware.
If you are using the SPDIF output then the voltage on the RCA doesn't matter, but it's pretty low. If you have even a somewhat ok amp then it won't matter much. Even crappy amps can handle low voltage from the RCA's.

kouklo said:
From what I have read Joying is having issues with OBD2 on the new HU's. They are working on it and are going to come out with new firmware.
If you are using the SPDIF output then the voltage on the RCA doesn't matter, but it's pretty low. If you have even a somewhat ok amp then it won't matter much. Even crappy amps can handle low voltage from the RCA's.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good to know re the firmware, but if it’s being fixed, then I’ll persist in finding a good OBD2 transmitter.
And yep, I’m aware the RCA’s won’t be used if I can use the SPDIF output, but I’m preparing just in case.

Hey all,
Does anyone know how to make the factory reverse camera work with the new Joying units?
Is it simply a case of splicing the cable from the rear camera and soldering on an RCA plug?
Cheers!

BCK_Phoenix said:
Hey all,
Does anyone know how to make the factory reverse camera work with the new Joying units?
Is it simply a case of splicing the cable from the rear camera and soldering on an RCA plug?
Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe?: https://avinusa.com/volkswagen-factory-backup-camera-rgb-to-rca-converter.html

Confirmation on wiring 7862 to Kia Sportage 2011 with digital amp

Hi all, I have an Australian 2011 Kia Sportage Platinum model - I think it was SX / highest spec model in other countries. Apparently the Australian car in 2011 was a little unique in that it had a 6 stack CD but no sat nav on the head unit. There is a factory digital amp and sub woofer located in the rear. As much as I have attempted to get this fact across to suppliers on Aliexpress, I am sure they did not fully understand and have suggested I only need a CAMBUS and I am good to go.
As you can see with the pinout for my radio on connector A I have SPDIF ground, DN and DP. So it is a discrete signal to the amp that decodes what I assume is PCM and then sends it off to the speakers. I have a few questions:
1. Before I install the 7862 Unit, I will check voltage out from Pins 6 and 15 on my factory radio with sound on. I assume this will be less than 5 volts. as per SPDIF coax spec. I will then connect up the 7862 unit, plug in an RCA to the COAX SPDIF out and check voltage. If the wiring loom that I have been sent doesn't work, this COAX out feed fed into my car's wiring loom along with a 12v signal on pin 14 (remote AMP) will get me started. Any thoughts?
2. On Connector A of my original head unit, there are the SPDIF outs but why are there also speaker outs for front and rear left and right if there is a digital signal to the amp? Does this mean that the amp is only feeding the sub woofer and that the fronts and rears are fed directly from the head unit? It seems very strange to me.
3. PIN 9 on Connector A is DETENT. What is that? PIN 14 is Remote AMP. Is this a 12v line to wake up the amp?
4. Chinese Unit wiring shows a CANBUS but I am unsure is the CANBUS has an analog to digital converter? Can anyone shed light on this?
I appreciate any assistance you can offer.

This could help regarding SPDIF: https://www.gencoupe.com/threads/help-spdif-preamp-input-nav-premium.106094/
Are you sure the China head unit has an SPDIF output?
I think your OEM radio supports both. SPDIF and analog output. Or there is a cheaper variant available which only supports analog output. You don't need this connectors when using SPDIF.
I don't know Detent but in another forum they just ignored this pin.
Remote Amp is 12v signal for the amplifier. So you're right.
The canbus converts digital signals from your car to the radio. E.g. Translates the steering wheel buttons to a signal the head unit can interpret.

Hi, thanks for the link.
I am sure the chinese unit I purchased has SPDIF out via TOSLINK and coax but not through the main head unit wiring.
There definately is a cheaper model of my vehicle that didn't have a digital amp but I am suprised that there is both direct digital signal to the amp as well as direct wiring to the speakers. It is very confusing.
I understand CANBUS has a high and low signal but I wasn't sure if they specifically also change digital audio signals as well as well as the standard CAN signals.
I believe some CANBUS may handle both the CAN high / low transfer and have the ability to to convert the analog signal out of the android head unit to an SPDIF line level PCM (assumed) signal that my amp needs.
I guess this is not a common subject here. I might have to wait and do a fair bit of testing before I install.

Connecting a china head unit can be a real challenge, especially because there is zero support from the seller.
I've seen the amplifier has separate inputs for navigation voice (pin 9 and 23). Sorry for the German link:
Kia Sportage - Externer verstärker Bauteile und bauteile-Übersicht - AVN-System
Maybe some audio signals will be transferred analog. You could connect the new device without the analog audio connections to check if they are really required.
Can't help you regarding CANBUS but I hope you keep us updated and give some updates of your "project".
Maybe you're interested:
Junsun V1 MTK8259 - the adapter battle (Kia Ceed Jd) / OEM camera usage / reference thread
I bought the Junsun V1 head unit but my Kia Ceed JD had a OEM nav unit which isn't directly compatible to Junsun V1. So I re-wired the wiring harness based on the pins description of my original OEM navigation unit. I'm only modifying the wiring...
forum.xda-developers.com

Thanks again. The problem I have is that my head unit has SPDIF out, USB out rear cam out but all connected to the two white plugs. This unit seems different to all the US, Europe and other Asia models. It might be why I am getting so many blank stares.
I'm even having trouble finding an Australian edition of the wiring diagrams.
Your helpful link to the QL model German manual also has an SL model which is my model. Unfortunately my radio is not amongst the option in the manual. I see radios offer Sirrus so I am assuming that is a US model.
I might just need to go back to first principals and really understand my head unit before I do any installing. How is your install going?

My installation was a little tricky because I found three wringing diagrams which could be the correct one.
Fortunately all the wringing diagrams had ILLU and REVERSE on different positions so I was able to identify the correct one with a multimeter. But I wasn't able to find the wringing diagram with the model name of the device.
I have a Kia and finally the needed wiring diagram was from a Hiunday device. Someone crosslinked from a Kia forum to a Hiunday forum.
I had to completely re-wire and enhance the black plug of the China head unit because AUX and MIC are separate outputs on the China nav unit.
On the other side I had to remove USB from the black connector because this is a separate plug in the Kia.
For you the USB pins may are another good pins to check if the writing diagram is the right one.

I'm sure you already found this regarding the DETENT mystery:
Any radio wiring experts know what "Detent" leads are for?
Any radio wiring experts know what "Detent" leads are for?
grassrootsmotorsports.com
But I think DETENT is PARKING/HAND BREAK. So that's easy to verify.

TorstenH said:
I'm sure you already found this regarding the DETENT mystery:
But I think DETENT is PARKING/HAND BREAK. So that's easy to verify.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think there is still a little mystery for me, but I will work it out.
TorstenH said:
My installation was a little tricky because I found three wringing diagrams which could be the correct one.
Fortunately all the wringing diagrams had ILLU and REVERSE on different positions so I was able to identify the correct one with a multimeter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You were lucky to have the option to eliminate 2 of the 3 wiring diagrams. I will do the same before I start wiring the new HU.
For you the USB pins may are another good pins to check if the writing diagram is the right one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I will be doing a double check of everything.
I *think* that I have worked out why there is SPDIF line level + and - to the amp as well as wiring direct to the speakers from the factory HU.
I *think* that when I use and AUX input from USB or 3.5mm which is analog input, the factory headunit does no conversion and just amplifies the analog signal and sends it to the 4 main speakers. It will be simple to check this.
If I am correct, only CD and radio singal gets converted to digital line level SPDIF PCM then gets sent to the amp.
As my radio has a COAX SPDIF out, I might be able to make a single RCA to double RCA cable to send the signal to the amp. Or I might just patch in the SPDIF COAX RCA into the main ISO plug directly. I think having the COAX SPDIF out from my new HU will give me a lot more option.
I need to check if the CANBUS converts the analog signal to SPDIF line level or if the Chinese wiring just bypasses the amp and sub woofer or does something else again.
My new HU will arrive tomorrow of Monday so I will get time to study the wiring and make some checks. I will be sure to document all of the things I find. I just need to make the time to do it.

Well after a quick plug in and test, I am not getting any signal to amp regardless of how well I have followed the supplier's suggestions.
I think the standard signal to the amp id not happening so the amp is not waking up.
Canbus is for a 2015 Sportage but steering wheel options work with the volume working in opposite.
Will investigate more tomorrow.

Installed the radio today. The radio supplier's suggested installation did not work as I was sure it wouldn't.
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
2.The supplier actually sent me quite a bit more than I was expecting. There were extra patch cables and an external mic. This was nice, but I actually bought a mic thinking that one did not come with the kit. It was only a few dollars though.
3.There is very little installation info. The info by way of photos I was sent did not match the cabling that I had.I would have liked to get an understanding of all the pin outs including the CANBUS but I am yet to receive this.
3. I actually removed my factory radio last night and just powered up the unit. I didn't realise that the default setting in the software is to only put the unit in standby or only turned off the screen. This drained my battery over about 18 hours. I needed a jump start to get the car going and I now have the battery on a trickle charge to repair it.
This default setting allows instant on for the radio. By changing to the option for a three second delay, the radio needs to boot on car starting.
4. Boot times are quick. I have not timed it yet, but I would guess 20 seconds. Bluetooth connection takes about another 20 seconds after that. I will make a video of it and more when I have used the unit a bit more.
5. The radio fascia brackets weren't installed properly. Just make sure to check them before you install. The screws really should be a bit longer to stop threading the fascia mounts.
6. The fascia is not a perfect match for my dash in colour but it still looks good. The fit is not perfect but good enough. I might remove the dash again tomorrow and just pack one side of the fascia so it is more flush fitting but it would only be 3-5mm.
All in all I am very satisfied. The response of the unit is great and sound quality seems good. Bluetooth and wireless connected well and a quick test of the 5ghz frequency wifi tethered to my phone gave 6mb/s when I was downloading the Waze app. I will test more soon.

ludditefornow said:
Installed the radio today. The radio supplier's suggested installation did not work as I was sure it wouldn't.
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
2.The supplier actually sent me quite a bit more than I was expecting. There were extra patch cables and an external mic. This was nice, but I actually bought a mic thinking that one did not come with the kit. It was only a few dollars though.
3.There is very little installation info. The info by way of photos I was sent did not match the cabling that I had.I would have liked to get an understanding of all the pin outs including the CANBUS but I am yet to receive this.
3. I actually removed my factory radio last night and just powered up the unit. I didn't realise that the default setting in the software is to only put the unit in standby or only turned off the screen. This drained my battery over about 18 hours. I needed a jump start to get the car going and I now have the battery on a trickle charge to repair it.
This default setting allows instant on for the radio. By changing to the option for a three second delay, the radio needs to boot on car starting.
4. Boot times are quick. I have not timed it yet, but I would guess 20 seconds. Bluetooth connection takes about another 20 seconds after that. I will make a video of it and more when I have used the unit a bit more.
5. The radio fascia brackets weren't installed properly. Just make sure to check them before you install. The screws really should be a bit longer to stop threading the fascia mounts.
6. The fascia is not a perfect match for my dash in colour but it still looks good. The fit is not perfect but good enough. I might remove the dash again tomorrow and just pack one side of the fascia so it is more flush fitting but it would only be 3-5mm.
All in all I am very satisfied. The response of the unit is great and sound quality seems good. Bluetooth and wireless connected well and a quick test of the 5ghz frequency wifi tethered to my phone gave 6mb/s when I was downloading the Waze app. I will test more soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To 1: Isn't there a setting in Android car menu where you can assign the buttons to specific functions?
To 3: same topic here. I can set Sleep to on or off. But can't set time how long to sleep before shutdown.

TorstenH said:
To 1: Isn't there a setting in Android car menu where you can assign the buttons to specific functions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is that function and I did try to use it. I was long pressing on the physical button before pressing the on screen as suggested but there was no change. I assumed the button remap is only useful for non Canbus driven buttons. I could be wrong, though.
To 3: same topic here. I can set Sleep to on or off. But can't set time how long to sleep before shutdown.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I too would like a full understanding of the sleep function. Things like when sleep starts, when shut down starts etc would be useful.

ludditefornow said:
Some things to note:
1. Canbus worked although the steering wheel volume controls are reversed. Not sure if that is easily changable. I might just live with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope you got this sorted. If not, have you tried this?

ludditefornow said:
After considering options, I chose to use the coax out and patch that into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) and everything worked fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I Installed in my SL Sportage Platinum today and have no sound and no reversing camera. Do you have a photo of how you wired from the SPDIF on the unit to the factory connector?
Did you keep the factory camera? If so, what did you do to get these working? I think my unit is slightly different as I don't have the small clock.

Storrsy said:
I Installed in my SL Sportage Platinum today and have no sound and no reversing camera. Do you have a photo of how you wired from the SPDIF on the unit to the factory connector?
Did you keep the factory camera? If so, what did you do to get these working? I think my unit is slightly different as I don't have the small clock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you use the coax out method? The Kia amp requires am PCM digital signal sent on two wires as mentioned above.
Get an RCA male male cable. Cut on end and strip until you see two bare wires. These bare wires will patch into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) of your car's wiring loom. These are the wires to the amp.
Add this male connector end of the RCA cable into the RCA digital out on the head unit. Check for sound.
My reversing camera is built into my rear view mirror so the wiring is not connected to the radio. And yes, I found the switch for volume, but thanks for letting me know. It might help someone else.

ludditefornow said:
Did you use the coax out method? The Kia amp requires am PCM digital signal sent on two wires as mentioned above.
Get an RCA male male cable. Cut on end and strip until you see two bare wires. These bare wires will patch into Connector A pin 6 (SPDIF DN) and pin 15 (SPDIF DP) of your car's wiring loom. These are the wires to the amp.
Add this male connector end of the RCA cable into the RCA digital out on the head unit. Check for sound.
My reversing camera is built into my rear view mirror so the wiring is not connected to the radio. And yes, I found the switch for volume, but thanks for letting me know. It might help someone else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Success!!! I was able to get the amp working thanks to this thread. I was also able to get the camera working by splicing the 'unused' green reverse wire from the supplied harness to the brown reverse signal wire in the CANBUS connection. (I noted that in the some of the offical images the wire was pink.)

Peeps, did you have to connect the remote amp (12v positive?) or SPDIF ground (12v negative?) I’m almost there just no sound.. I’ve connected coax out to pins 6&15 but nothing

From the modifed coax cable coming out of your head unit, what voltage are you getting on either wire when playing audio?
If you aren't getting a signal, then there is a software setting (that I can't think of right now) or another issue.
And I have not connected the remote amp wire. Clear photos help a lot if you have followup questions.

Zero volts

Then the headunit is not passing a signal to the spdif RCA out for some reason