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Hello
I've searched and tried plenty, and maybe this was covered but I can't find anything..
I recently bought a Klyde unit for my 2013 Hyundai sonata with dimension stereo and stock amplifier..
The wiring seemed simple enough, but I cannot get any sound through my speakers.
I did quite a bit of troubleshooting and even got a replacement canbus decoder from the seller but still nothing..
Is there a simple solution that someone else knows or should I just return the thing and get a different one..
Thanks a million I'm stumped
Edit: the rca cables have sound coming out but I'm trying to keep the stock amplifier and speakers..
The spdif signal going to the canbus "amp controller" box gets 12v power, I get about 200 to 250mv signal into it but 10mv going out to the car's harness
Is there a way to "enable" the amp controller like the Metra boxes?
Sent from my SM-N900W8
Anyone?
I have more pics if it helps
Thanks again
Bought a Metra amp interface and now it works
I am wondering if this might be how to solve my problem. This is the post I made on the large android head unit thread, do you think this metra amp interface would solve this for my lancer also?
if so which did you get and where, I think you have the same head unit I have.
"I just received my unit thursday I had it installed friday, but it was not giving any audio signal and the amp wasn't being turned on. They tried to manually turn on the amp, but there was still no audio coming through.
so I am wondering if there is anything I can do to troubleshoot it myself while waiting for a reply from the seller. There is a few notable things that might be the problem but I figured I would ask here to check before I start.
First there is a red wire that looks like it was cut right near the canbus unit it came this way out of the box, the installer said it had power to it, I am wondering if it's supposed to be cut or if reconnecting it could help, also there is a blue wire on the harness that is not connected into the harness also. will attach pictures. (or not because I am not allowed hopefully you can figure out how to see them below...)
red wire ------- pasteboard dot co/MO1wkXJ.jpg
blue wire ------- pasteboard dot co/MO6kqKs.jpg
back of unit ---- pasteboard dot co/MO9x1eI.jpg"
So what Metra Interface Kit...
I know this is an old thread but I have a 2014 Sonata Limited w/ Dimension Amp and android head unit doesn't output audio either with the Amp controller box or spdif box. I believe these boxes that came with it are not working properly. Please inform me of what kit I need to purchase.
Seeing reports...
I'm seeing reports the the hybl-04 is the Metra kit that you have ended up using. Is this correct?
Most of the Android ChinaRadios come with some sort of CANbus decoder (or so they are labeled) to provide steering wheel controls, backup support, etc... Every single vendor will only sell you a CANbus decoder that they 'manufacture' for their units - claiming that any other combination of decoder/radio will not work.
Aside from this being mostly BS, these vendors are absolutely adamant of not wanting to sell individual of these decoders - which for Chinese vendors is curious, to say the least, to turn down any opportunity to make a buck.
Either way, despite all of them claiming to manufacture their own, we know that is BS -- these vendors buy products from actual manufacturers, repackage them, and sell them.
Try as I might (Alibaba, aliexpress, globalSources) I have not been able to find a manufacturer that produces just these boxes.
Does anyone around here have any leads?
MacConsult said:
Most of the Android ChinaRadios come with some sort of CANbus decoder (or so they are labeled) to provide steering wheel controls, backup support, etc... Every single vendor will only sell you a CANbus decoder that they 'manufacture' for their units - claiming that any other combination of decoder/radio will not work.
Aside from this being mostly BS, these vendors are absolutely adamant of not wanting to sell individual of these decoders - which for Chinese vendors is curious, to say the least, to turn down any opportunity to make a buck.
Either way, despite all of them claiming to manufacture their own, we know that is BS -- these vendors buy products from actual manufacturers, repackage them, and sell them.
Try as I might (Alibaba, aliexpress, globalSources) I have not been able to find a manufacturer that produces just these boxes.
Does anyone around here have any leads?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To add more to that.
My previous unit an Witson 3066/1Gb ram has an CAN decoder that worked fine for my Ford but the Joying ones work only 85% fine meaning the PREV and NEXT buttons were reversed and that was a pain to use since all my life when I push the NEXT button I expect to hear the next song not the previous one.
Anyway, although I was struggling to correct the Joying CAN mistake I could not because I did not find any way that I could reflash the CAN box. Joying said that the CAN might not be 100% compatible with my car although it should be.
Even if the old CAN box from my former Witson unit was looking exactly the same and the wire socket was exactly the same as the Joying one, the wiring was completely different, different wiring location on the socket, different wire colours. The internals of the CAN boxes looked almost the same but I did not had the courage to test the Witson one on the Joying afraid that I would damage the headunit or more importantly the car...
What I did in the end was to directly connect the resistive buttons of the steering wheel directly to the unit (bypassing the CAN) and program them via the unit software and let the CAN box to decode the other stuff like putting the car in reverse, turning on the lights, feeding +12V to the unit when I start the car.
What I learned is that CAN box is a black box... if it's not working it's almost impossible to find a fix of any kind... or buy a working replacement...
That appears to mirror my initial impression, albeit I feel that different vendors use different providers for these CANboxes and hence that a different CANbox should be able to do the job another can't.
Example, on my XTRONS unit, the steering wheel controls didn't work at all - albeit reverse detection and lights worked well. Unlike my prior box (from 'alec-power' where everything worked (except the radio didn't produce any sound - a slight issue. They took it back and refunded me). Now, XTRONS had me send back the CANbus box, and promised to send another as soon as they have stock again. (1-2 weeks), but they also confirmed that their e39/e46 (BMW) decoder is the same as the one for e53.
What we really need is to figure out how these CANbus boxes work, and ideally how to program them (if that is possible -- which it ought to be).
That's what I was attempting to kick-start with this thread.
Bummer, so no one has any information on these CANbus decoders?
MacConsult said:
Bummer, so no one has any information on these CANbus decoders?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your best bet is to try a different car in the canbus setting in factory settings. I had that problem on my ford focus I set the canbus for it and it didn't work right with the steering wheel so went through them all to find that the ford Mondeo rise settings worked and fixed that problem for me.
Where can i buy new canbus gor ownice c500? I send mail to manufacturer but no answer
pcmender2005 said:
Your best bet is to try a different car in the canbus setting in factory settings. I had that problem on my ford focus I set the canbus for it and it didn't work right with the steering wheel so went through them all to find that the ford Mondeo rise settings worked and fixed that problem for me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Turned out, in my case, that the proper setting was "NONE" in the CANbus settings, and suddenly everything worked.
Chinese engineering....
If you need a canbus box, your best bet would be to go with a more mainstream manufacturer, like axxess/metra. Their units can tie back into the car radio using the SWI1/2 wires.
Any update on this?
Just reviving an old thread looking for answers
I also think there is a problem with my bmw e39 can-bus box i am using with Xtrons PQ7939BIP. When i connect the can-bus box, the red (terminal R) and the yellow (battery + terminal 30) become "shorted" and they should not "touch" each other. This way, i have to connect the yellow and the red wires from the android unit to the violet/white wire from my car (terminal R - accesory) and leave the terminal 30 (hot all time) wire from the car disconnected so that the xtrons unit shuts down when i put the ignition switch in position 0 or when i pull out the key from the ignition switch.
Is this normal or is my can-bus box bad?
Trimis de pe al meu SM-G950F folosind Tapatalk
bogdan wst said:
I also think there is a problem with my bmw e39 can-bus box i am using with Xtrons PQ7939BIP. When i connect the can-bus box, the red (terminal R) and the yellow (battery + terminal 30) become "shorted" and they should not "touch" each other. This way, i have to connect the yellow and the red wires from the android unit to the violet/white wire from my car (terminal R - accesory) and leave the terminal 30 (hot all time) wire from the car disconnected so that the xtrons unit shuts down when i put the ignition switch in position 0 or when i pull out the key from the ignition switch.
Is this normal or is my can-bus box bad?
Trimis de pe al meu SM-G950F folosind Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can connect the red wire to any wire on your bmw that has 12 volts with the key on RUN or ACCESSORY, but the yellow wire needs to have 12 volts all the time.
MacConsult said:
Most of the Android ChinaRadios come with some sort of CANbus decoder (or so they are labeled) to provide steering wheel controls, backup support, etc... Every single vendor will only sell you a CANbus decoder that they 'manufacture' for their units - claiming that any other combination of decoder/radio will not work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Every PX5 and PX head unit can work with a canbus decoder from different manufacturers. You have to go to Android Settings > Car settings > Factory settings (password: 126) > Canbus tab > Select the manufacturer of your canbus decoder and the car model.
I have a PX5 head unit with a canbus decoder from "Simple", and when it broke, I replaced it with "Raise" and it works.
I recommend to review the list of supported canbus decoders in your head unit in the Factory settings, before purchasing a new one. You may need also to buy a new wire harness if you don't have a plug for the canbus decoder.
piotrmocko said:
Every PX5 and PX head unit can work with a canbus decoder from different manufacturers. You have to go to Android Settings > Car settings > Factory settings (password: 126) > Canbus tab > Select the manufacturer of your canbus decoder and the car model.
I have a PX5 head unit with a canbus decoder from "Simple", and when it broke, I replaced it with "Raise" and it works.
I recommend to review the list of supported canbus decoders in your head unit in the Factory settings, before purchasing a new one. You may need also to buy a new wire harness if you don't have a plug for the canbus decoder.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I also have PX unit (PX6) with Simple soft CANBUS and I get more options when I chose raise like air-conditioning info on my PX6 unit. I have Honda civic 2016 and the only thing that is not working is the car clock not syncing through the CANBUS from my Dasaita PX6 unit. which is a bummer.
I am very curious about the Can Box options as when looking to buy a unit for my '18 WRX with HK Audio I found the IDoing selling them with support for the HK and was surprised as Crutchfield and Meastro just added support for this setup and I was about to order their harness and box to wire in a Kenwood unit I have in my old car.
When I found the IDoing(FYT) I figured all the other better know sellers should have had same option so I emailed Joying as I couldn't find option from them and they responded that they didn't have a solution. SYGAV does claim to have one but but it's nearly double cost and all the WRX reviews said it was hit or miss if it worked.
I bought the IDoing unit and it was plug and play and works great(with one exception)
If these are all the same HU and CanBus hardware, why the variances? Just programming by the seller or are they all buying from different MFR?
Before ordering I tried to order a harness and canbus from IDoing and the unit from Joying, Joying wouldn't sell me the HU because I had mentioned I had HK Audio and IDoing Flat out refused to sell me a canbus and harness without proof I had bought a HU from them.
That said the Unit works very well and the only issue with the Canbus is that it can't control the rear speaker separate from the front(no fade).
Someone earlier mentioned buying a maestro, has anyone ever connected one of these chinese units to a maestro box?
Just so everyone knows
I managed to add canbus functionality to my xtrons unit even though they said it’s not compatible
I bought a harness for my car with the correct decoder and chopped it to fit the pin outs of my head unit.
works like a dream.
If anyone needs advice I am always available
what car and what harness? You bought a canbus and harness from another "seller" and made it fit? Or you bought something aftermarket like Maestro?
gottahavit said:
what car and what harness? You bought a canbus and harness from another "seller" and made it fit? Or you bought something aftermarket like Maestro?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Peugeot 207.
bought harness with decoder from feedo seller.
chopped off the connector and soldered it to my hu connector
are you looking to do same?
Sdpuk2020 said:
Peugeot 207.
bought harness with decoder from feedo seller.
chopped off the connector and soldered it to my hu connector
are you looking to do same?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the harness I bought
Sdpuk2020 said:
Peugeot 207.
bought harness with decoder from feedo seller.
chopped off the connector and soldered it to my hu connector
are you looking to do same?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What are you looking to do?
Sorry I was hoping you had found a way to make a maestro or other idatalink module work.
SC9853 8-core Intel Airmont with 64GB / 4GB ram... bought it online... supposed to be suitable for my car model, but I'm a bit unsure, and the Chinese seller did not provide much help yet... no instructions nor manual nor wiring diagram...:
my original car: Nissan Teana 250XV from 2010 (model J32, matches the Maxima A35 dashboard/equipment)
So the top LCD display shows the CD number / Radio station / dual Aircon temperature setting.
The backside Radio/CD player:
(deducted the connections from a Google image from Nissan Frontier)
the dark gray is the Antenna radio, the small white should be the Steering controls, the bottom big connector should be for the AC (should not touch), and the remaining plug is the power/speakers wire.
The 2 connections that went into the top LCD display:
I'm assuming the black one goes into the black connector of the Android harness:
I found similar connections on another post, so I deducted:
It came with 2 USB cables, 1 is 4 pin, the other is 6 pin connector... 1st thought they go at bottom in middle, but from the other post it was for MIC-in ?
it should come with instructions and a wiring diagram?!
Can somebody help with explaining what's what?
it seems the harness has a male and female connector, so the female is to connect to the car cable, and the male goes back into the CD/Radio? so the CD player can still function, it's audio should go through an Aux cable?
The antenna cable has not suitable connection, so I suppose I can keep using the stock radio? there's a cut blue wire on the harness labeled Auto ANT, so I could connect this one to the car cable, though would need to figure out how, looks like it has 2 wires (below is for the newer version model L33, but Radio ANT connection looks identical):
Assuming only 1 of the 2 LCD connections need to be used, one of them is black, so I'm assuming this one goes on the black one of the harness...
Sure hope I can sort this out... biggest issue is the head unit seems to be too long to the back, so I have not been able to reinstall, it sticks out... if I install the GPS it sticks out even further, without the GPS this is how far I get....:
the seller claims it can be installed, they did it before with this kind of unit... so shall try again, but to me it looks like I'm hitting the back of the compartment...
Freaking out as have spent 380 USD on it and it took 2 months to deliver (due to Chinese new year / COVID-19)....
Any help much appreciated, thanks a lot in advance!
If the unit has been special been produced for your car, it should be plug´n play.
All connectors are coded. You are not able to misuse any of them.... So what is your problem now???
Well for one besides the unit turning on nothing works: no sound, also the old radio not working, only short beeps when pressing load/eject CD.
To the Head unit I only connected the main power cable, this one also holds the speakers? So should have sound?
Tried setting the steering wheel controls... Also no luck..
Will try to also connect the brown-blue/white cable which has pin count matching bottom left socket below the RCA socket.
Issue may be this Thailand Teana, steering wheel at right side, most units sold for left side...
You mean coded as in wire colors should match? (Only a few cables are labeled, the sockets are not)
Thanks
ok the seller now confirms these are the connections:
the not marked left bottom and right top supposedly have no function...
Only thing left to try is to disconnect the original car stereo plug, so the Android head unit is connected directly to the car cable without the car Radio connected... but that means the original car radio/cd player is not usable...
could also try to use the AUX cable from the Head Unit's RCA connections and connect it to the head jack of the Radio, suppose should get audio then?
will check the wire colors, suppose they should match the harness wire colors? if the unit would actually physically fit my car could correct the socket wiring so it may work for my car?
(I'm assuming a left hand drive car may have different wiring vs. right hand drive car? as nothing works, except for the screen getting power (no sound, no steering wheel control))
@GregToR
I wrote:
rigattoni said:
All connectors are coded. You are not able to misuse any of them....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That means that the connectors of the cable tree only match to one single hole in the unit.
That has nothing to do with colors of the cables itself. They most probably don´t match.
Just do it, or drive to someone who is able to help you.
rigattoni said:
@GregToR
I wrote:
That means that the connectors of the cable tree only match to one single hole in the unit.
That has nothing to do with colors of the cables itself. They most probably don´t match.
Just do it, or drive to someone who is able to help you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, you are right, each cable has a different unique fit, not interchangeable, but for the AC cable there are 2 wires it both sockets going to 2 pins, but only one of them matches with the harness connector (so the other wire has no counterpart = dead end due to on different pins), so possible wrong wiring in the harness?
if it's truly plug and play, I should have at least sound, I have no sound... so something's wrong... or does the software need configuration to enable sound?
for the steering wheel controls there's a menu to configure the buttons, but nothing happens, there is however a setting to change the impedance, maybe should try that next.
what about the Canbox?
its purpose is normally for it to act like it would be the car, what's its role here? why is it needed if it's installed in the car? I read online normally it's used to diagnose without the need of the physical car to be present.
The CAN-Box is most necessary part in the set up.
It provides Ignition, power for the amp and the possibility to use the steering wheel buttons.
I would say that you should drive to a car repair shop to get it built in.
Do you have a link for the unit?
Seems seller may not know his own device:
Looks like mine, so the cable I didn't connect could be the CAN input.
Will try later on
Seller wants me to go to a shop where they'll cut out a part of my car to make it fit... Should I? Rather keep everything original....
Says this TS9 always is bigger size for heat disapation...
This is the link where I bought it:
ลองเข้ามาดูสินค้า เครื่องเสียงรถยนต์ MP5 Player 10.1 นิ้ว Android 9.0 รถยนต์ Nissan Teana 2008 2009 2011 2012 BT วิทยุ GPS DSP Carplay ลดราคา 10% เหลือ ฿3,645 เท่านั้น! ซื้อได้ในแอป Shopee ตอนนี้เลย! https://shopee.co.th/product/214907970/3213687141?v=6f0&smtt=0.0.5
There is too many of these units out there from sellers that don't give enough information with their products. It leaves the end user scratching their head all too often. I purchased a very similar unit to this. Same thing, no support, no instructions, no manual etc etc.
Did you get it to a shop and were they able to sort?
Noobtrube said:
There is too many of these units out there from sellers that don't give enough information with their products. It leaves the end user scratching their head all too often. I purchased a very similar unit to this. Same thing, no support, no instructions, no manual etc etc.
Did you get it to a shop and were they able to sort?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no, I returned it, as I don't want to cut a piece out of my car, and other sellers say it should not be necessary if the correct unit is installed.
The seller thought me to go to the "Extra Settings" menu to select the right car under "Model", after which it updates the MCU accordingly. After this the only thing I got working was the AC temperature control on the screen, had to set the "left / right Peptide" differently to mirror temp setting so Dual setting matches (left and right is apparently the other way around in a left hand side driving car ("peptide" must be a bad translation as that's part of a protein...).
Is the RCA jack to AUX the only way to get sound through the car speakers? (didn't work either, never got sound... I believe the cable was jamming the original CD/Radio, which didn't function with the head unit in between)
glad I got my money back, and recently found a shop here in Bangkok that can sell and install a proper unit, pheww...
Seeing if anyone has any input here to possibly assist getting on of the new Joying Android 10 units working with the steering wheel controls on my 2008 350Z. I just cannot wrap my head around this. I don't believe my car has CANBUS but there seems to be no real concrete info. If not, I've read some conflicting items here. There's 2 plugs on the car harness that went to the stock radio that don't seem to have an equivalent to the aftermarket harness or unit. Can they be adapted somehow
There are universal adapters but I read that you have to splice and solder IN THE CAR for this **** to actually work? What a nightmare. Is there anything that I can pre-wire that just works? The AXXESS and PAC unit seem to require an engineering degree to figure out in addition to splicing the factory harness. This all seems so ridiculously difficult, there has to be a better way here.
level5music said:
Seeing if anyone has any input here to possibly assist getting on of the new Joying Android 10 units working with the steering wheel controls on my 2008 350Z. I just cannot wrap my head around this. I don't believe my car has CANBUS but there seems to be no real concrete info. If not, I've read some conflicting items here. There's 2 plugs on the car harness that went to the stock radio that don't seem to have an equivalent to the aftermarket harness or unit. Can they be adapted somehow
There are universal adapters but I read that you have to splice and solder IN THE CAR for this **** to actually work? What a nightmare. Is there anything that I can pre-wire that just works? The AXXESS and PAC unit seem to require an engineering degree to figure out in addition to splicing the factory harness. This all seems so ridiculously difficult, there has to be a better way here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is your unit, post info including MCU, joying means zip.
Yes, please post additional information. It looks like there should be an AXXESS module for your steering wheel controls. You have to indicate which trim option you have...base audio, standard audio or Bose. Here:
https://axxessinterfaces.com/products?Year=2008&Make=Nissan&Model=350Z&TrimOption[]=Base%20audio&TrimOption[]=BOSE&TrimOption[]=Standard%20Audio
You can update the trim on that page to be specific to your car. I took a quick look at the instructions and CAN-HI and CAN-LO so it looks like it's possible yours has a Canbus interface. If yours does, not sure if the AXXESS modules will help. If you don't need a canbus module for anything else, then you could possibly use the AXXESS module just for the steering wheel controls on the canbus interface.
I used an AXXESS module for my 2012 Kia Sorento as the amplifier and sound required it. It came with a steering wheel control module as well. Took a bit, but finally set it up as needed. The best thing you can get is a schematic for your car as it will show details about your steering wheel buttons and how they communicate / are wired to the head unit. Get the schematic and you can set up the buttons. Mine, however, does not have or require canbus.
marchnz said:
What is your unit, post info including MCU, joying means zip.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can't find this info anywhere. Not in the box, not in the Amazon order, not in any of the menus etc. I'm super surprised how difficult it is to find.
mastrv said:
Yes, please post additional information. It looks like there should be an AXXESS module for your steering wheel controls. You have to indicate which trim option you have...base audio, standard audio or Bose. Here:
https://axxessinterfaces.com/products?Year=2008&Make=Nissan&Model=350Z&TrimOption[]=Base%20audio&TrimOption[]=BOSE&TrimOption[]=Standard%20Audio
You can update the trim on that page to be specific to your car. I took a quick look at the instructions and CAN-HI and CAN-LO so it looks like it's possible yours has a Canbus interface. If yours does, not sure if the AXXESS modules will help. If you don't need a canbus module for anything else, then you could possibly use the AXXESS module just for the steering wheel controls on the canbus interface.
I used an AXXESS module for my 2012 Kia Sorento as the amplifier and sound required it. It came with a steering wheel control module as well. Took a bit, but finally set it up as needed. The best thing you can get is a schematic for your car as it will show details about your steering wheel buttons and how they communicate / are wired to the head unit. Get the schematic and you can set up the buttons. Mine, however, does not have or require canbus.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info, but this is nearly impossible for me to understand. The tech docs for this AXXESS make zero sense at all. I don't see any of the items pointed out in the documents on my harness for either the car or the radio. They simply do not exist. I don't get how there are zero plug and play options for this. I don't see any options for Canbus for my car either. Whenever I Google this, I only find info related to LS1 swaps (meaning those who put an older Corvette motor into their 350Z). So frustrating.
Well, let's start with a couple of questions:
Sounds like you've already installed the head unit...correct?
What is the Joying model number?
Do you have schematics for your car? If not, can you get them? These will definitively inform what wires to use. With the buttons on your steering wheel, like volume up and down, they went to your factory head unit to change the volume. This information either went directly to the factory head unit for it to interpret or went through the canbus where the factory radio also obtained this information
Did the harness you used have a can bus module? It's a small box with a lot of wires going in and out.
Whether or not you used or need a canbus module is another question. What kinds of other things did your old factory head unit do:
Did you have bluetooth phone built-in?
Rear view factory camera?
Rear factory radar?
If your factory head unit was fairly basic, then you may not need a canbus module. Please post a picture of your dash...maybe a couple with the gauges and another for the center stalk where the radio and the climate controls go...also a picture of the steering wheel buttons. These will help inform the likeliness of having or needing a canbus module.
Not sure if you know what a canbus module looks like. This page shows 5 different types/manufacturers of canbus modules:
CANBUS settings
cc2.teyes.ru
If you don't need a canbus module, you need to figure out which wires to use to connect to the Android head unit.
Thanks for your continued responses and help mastrv. I'll answer your questions as best I can:
Sounds like you've already installed the head unit - Yes. I had an older Joying unit since 2016. The same harness can be used so it was a simple swap out after the not-so-simple task of pulling the entire center console away from the car.
What is the Joying model number? - I don't see this anywhere at all. Not in About Device, not in other menus, not on the box, not on the unit, not on the Amazon order, not on the Amazon product page. I cannot find this info whatsoever, and I have looked for it thoroughly.
Do you have the schematics for your car? If not, can you get them? No, and maybe at best. I don't know what I'm looking for here. There are two plugs that went to the factory CD player that go unused on the aftermarket harness. It's absolutely mindboggling there isn't an adapter for this.
Did the harness you used have a can bus module? I don't know, but I don't see anything resembling this in my car.
Did you have bluetooth phone built-in? Nope.
Rear view factory camera? Nope.
Rear factory radar? Nope.
As for the rest, I'll need to do so over the weekend. The entire cernter console has to be removed in this car to replace the head unit. This is why it's absolutely not possible for me to do things like solder inside the vehicle, and majority of these items are tucked away. How does AXXESS or PAC expect users to install this garbage? There isn't any space for it, and they label wiring that doesn't even exist in this car! Why not just made a single adapter and be done with it?
mastrv said:
Well, let's start with a couple of questions:
Sounds like you've already installed the head unit...correct?
What is the Joying model number?
Do you have schematics for your car? If not, can you get them? These will definitively inform what wires to use. With the buttons on your steering wheel, like volume up and down, they went to your factory head unit to change the volume. This information either went directly to the factory head unit for it to interpret or went through the canbus where the factory radio also obtained this information
Did the harness you used have a can bus module? It's a small box with a lot of wires going in and out.
Whether or not you used or need a canbus module is another question. What kinds of other things did your old factory head unit do:
Did you have bluetooth phone built-in?
Rear view factory camera?
Rear factory radar?
If your factory head unit was fairly basic, then you may not need a canbus module. Please post a picture of your dash...maybe a couple with the gauges and another for the center stalk where the radio and the climate controls go...also a picture of the steering wheel buttons. These will help inform the likeliness of having or needing a canbus module.
Not sure if you know what a canbus module looks like. This page shows 5 different types/manufacturers of canbus modules:
CANBUS settings
cc2.teyes.ru
If you don't need a canbus module, you need to figure out which wires to use to connect to the Android head unit.
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Click to collapse
From the information you've provided, it's most likely that you don't need a canbus at all...especially since your old unit didn't have one.
The only thing you're concerned about is the steering wheel controls, right?
Only thing that needs to be determined is which wires to be used for the steering wheel controls.
OK. I think I've found some good info for your model. The info doesn't have 2008 but it's for a 2007 and I think the 2008 is the same. This has information about the wires to use from the factory harness that connected to the old stereo:
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/forced-induction/360447d1390787670-finally-repurpose-your-steering-wheel-buttons-for-forced-induction-infiniti350zradiobuttonboxgeneralinstallguider1-7.pdf
It's for something called a Radio Button Box for racing applications. The install details the wires to use. On pages 2 and 3 it shows a piece of a schematic and identifies wires for Remote Control A, Remote Control B and Remote Control Ground. These would directly attach to Key1 and Key2 on the Android Head unit and any ground. On page 3 it also talks about how to test measure with a multi-meter to make sure these are the correct wires. The wires are in M39 connector:
Remote Control A is pin 22 and coloured R/G, Red and Green
Remote Control B is pin 23 and coloured OR, Orange
Remote Control Ground is pin 25 Y, Yellow
There is also a picture of the connector and it shows the wires from back and front. I think it shows the connector for an Infiniti G35, which is identical to the 350Z except for the wire colours.
I think you may not need any module and can connect those directly to the Android head unit...and then use the steering wheel control app to map them as you like.
FYI, the picture of the steering wheel controls includes a rocker for Volume up/down, buttons for Mode beside a Power button and a Prev/Next rocker.
FYI, the my350z site has much information and there is an Audio/Video section:
Audio & Video - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion
Audio & Video - 350Z Mobile entertainment and other electronics
my350z.com
mastrv said:
From the information you've provided, it's most likely that you don't need a canbus at all...especially since your old unit didn't have one.
The only thing you're concerned about is the steering wheel controls, right?
Only thing that needs to be determined is which wires to be used for the steering wheel controls.
OK. I think I've found some good info for your model. The info doesn't have 2008 but it's for a 2007 and I think the 2008 is the same. This has information about the wires to use from the factory harness that connected to the old stereo:
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/forced-induction/360447d1390787670-finally-repurpose-your-steering-wheel-buttons-for-forced-induction-infiniti350zradiobuttonboxgeneralinstallguider1-7.pdf
It's for something called a Radio Button Box for racing applications. The install details the wires to use. On pages 2 and 3 it shows a piece of a schematic and identifies wires for Remote Control A, Remote Control B and Remote Control Ground. These would directly attach to Key1 and Key2 on the Android Head unit and any ground. On page 3 it also talks about how to test measure with a multi-meter to make sure these are the correct wires. The wires are in M39 connector:
Remote Control A is pin 22 and coloured R/G, Red and Green
Remote Control B is pin 23 and coloured OR, Orange
Remote Control Ground is pin 25 Y, Yellow
There is also a picture of the connector and it shows the wires from back and front. I think it shows the connector for an Infiniti G35, which is identical to the 350Z except for the wire colours.
I think you may not need any module and can connect those directly to the Android head unit...and then use the steering wheel control app to map them as you like.
FYI, the picture of the steering wheel controls includes a rocker for Volume up/down, buttons for Mode beside a Power button and a Prev/Next rocker.
FYI, the my350z site has much information and there is an Audio/Video section:
Audio & Video - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion
Audio & Video - 350Z Mobile entertainment and other electronics
my350z.com
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Thanks again mastvr! Still really confused on this. So, my harness to the Joying unit has a pink Key 1 and brown Key 2 wires. What I don't get here is how I'm connecting to the car here. Soldering is pretty much off the table. I'm also very leary of cutting anything factory in the vehicle, although I guess if I HAVE to, maybe I would. My apprehension here is that if I cut something, and it's wrong, I'm going to end up with a hacked up factory harness that I neither have the skills, space, equipment or otherwise know-how to fix. That's why I sincerely wish there was something I could just adapt in a plug-and-play fashion. So completely frustrated with this.
If you don't have a connector for the plug in the link I provided, you can always use a t-tap connector so you don't have to cut it...or maybe there's some module you can use.
Anyway, there's enough info to make sure those are the correct wires. So, good luck with the rest.
Hi, New to the site and a greyhead who knows nothing about the electronics of these things. I installed a Navitree Y1E Android 11 4core 2+32GB Car DVD player for Ford Focus 2 2004-2011 audio for car video AM FM RDS 4G WIFI BT in my 201 Ford Focus. All appeared well as fitting was easy. All looked great and now I have found there is a constant live feed to the unit that is the possibe cause of a flat battery. My son is a mechanic and accepts he is not electronically knowledgeable, but he tested the wires and found a Yellow wire that was live and for memory, but there was a red wire that was permantly live and should be a switch feed. Can anyone advise if they have had experience with this model (Direct from China) and what is happening? Appreciate any help.
Subbieatspal said:
Hi, New to the site and a greyhead who knows nothing about the electronics of these things. I installed a Navitree Y1E Android 11 4core 2+32GB Car DVD player for Ford Focus 2 2004-2011 audio for car video AM FM RDS 4G WIFI BT in my 201 Ford Focus. All appeared well as fitting was easy. All looked great and now I have found there is a constant live feed to the unit that is the possibe cause of a flat battery. My son is a mechanic and accepts he is not electronically knowledgeable, but he tested the wires and found a Yellow wire that was live and for memory, but there was a red wire that was permantly live and should be a switch feed. Can anyone advise if they have had experience with this model (Direct from China) and what is happening? Appreciate any help.
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Hi Guys asnyone able to help. No help from supplier and looks like I will have to ditch the headunit..
Why would you ditch the head unit? It needs the permanent power on the yellow wire and a switched feed on the red wire. Your vehicle is currently not providing this so either you have wired the unit to the wrong feed or there currently isn't one so you'd need to find a connection in the vehicle which does switch with the key and run it to the red wire. As the red wire is only a sensing input it doesn't need heavy wiring.
It is not a head unit fault.
Note some vehicles supply the switching information to the stock head unit via the CANbus, yours may be like that and would explain the lack of a switched feed at present but you can easily overcome this.
Mr.TT_NZ said:
Why would you ditch the head unit? It needs the permanent power on the yellow wire and a switched feed on the red wire. Your vehicle is currently not providing this so either you have wired the unit to the wrong feed or there currently isn't one so you'd need to find a connection in the vehicle which does switch with the key and run it to the red wire. As the red wire is only a sensing input it doesn't need heavy wiring.
It is not a head unit fault.
Note some vehicles supply the switching information to the stock head unit via the CANbus, yours may be like that and would explain the lack of a switched feed at present but you can easily overcome this.
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Thanks
Mr.TT_NZThanks for replying..appreciate comments..The red wire is going into the canbus via a 20 pin connector if it is cut the problem seems solved, so are you saying that I should have a switch cable run to that? See image for wiring.
Ah so you do have a CANbus module, I believe there are some issues with switching via those modules but I've never had one to play with.
You could try removing the red wire from the CANbus module and connecting a switched feed to it instead (not as well as) so the head unit only gets its switch control from your new wire. Maybe that CANbus module is not exactly correct for your model of car, there are so many variations even within a certain model that it is hard to see how the people who write the software for the modules can keep up with all of them.
Mr.TT_NZ said:
Ah so you do have a CANbus module, I believe there are some issues with switching via those modules but I've never had one to play with.
You could try removing the red wire from the CANbus module and connecting a switched feed to it instead (not as well as) so the head unit only gets its switch control from your new wire. Maybe that CANbus module is not exactly correct for your model of car, there are so many variations even within a certain model that it is hard to see how the people who write the software for the modules can keep up with all of them.
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Thanks again. I will try this...did a bit off research on the canbus and there is no UK retailer who will sell me a Ford canbus and guarantee it will work! Most said it would be a sale with no return.. Hey Ho..