Hello, first of all, first of all, thank you in advance if someone can give me a cable... I bought an 8.8" android screen for my audi a5 8t 2015, it worked perfectly but I asked the seller if he had a new update or improvements and he sent me latest version available...
Well, nothing started to perform the update in principle "No problem" and when it restarts I get a black screen with a message "Check UART" and "No Signal" and nothing, what is the android system does not seem to work anymore. Now only the native "Audi" menu and reversing camera work.
I contact the seller and he does not give me a solution, he does not know how to access the recovery menu, try to flash again or anything.
I have tried more or less everything, but I can't find a solution to go back to the previous version (I only have an update.zip)
I think that the error itself of the update, jump to missing a file that did include the previous version called "Factoryconfig.xml"
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Let's see if any charitable soul who knows about it or has something more of an idea can give me a cable.
I have tried to connect via Usb to my laptop but it does not detect it, in any of the ports that the screen has.
Attached photos of the board and the screen itself.
PS: sorry for telling the whole story haha
Does anyone know about it? No, can someone help me... As always thanks in advance
PS: I would be willing to donate to solve this problem
Well, it says to check UART.
Is this the UART? It seems to be normal "TTL" levels. Don't connect the +5V to anything.
You do have a USB UART?
Renate said:
Well, it says to check UART.
Is this the UART? It seems to be normal "TTL" levels. Don't connect the +5V to anything.
You do have a USB UART?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your answer. Well, I don't have one, but can I make one for myself? Or does it have to be special and I need to buy it... On the other hand, in that connection once I have the "TTL" connected there, what would I have to do?
PS: Excuse my ignorance in this I am not very put, although I do manage well
I've got 3 or 4 hanging on my wall, but I don't think that you're local.
They are sold everywhere on the internet, but probably not locally available.
This is not an endorsement of Amazon. This model is nice because it will work with all the usual voltages.
You don't particularly need it now but you might need the lower voltages for a different device.
https://www.amazon.com/DSD-TECH-SH-U09C5-Converter-Support/dp/B07WX2DSVB
You can probably find something for half this price that will work for your head unit.
When you connect it you'll probably have a console. It's like an ADB shell.
You have to see what you have and what the problem is and fix it.
I don't want you to get over your head, but I usually solder in a connector.
You could also solder in just plain header pins if you liked.
It's a 4 pin JST XH connector. Like here:
Renate said:
I've got 3 or 4 hanging on my wall, but I don't think that you're local.
They are sold everywhere on the internet, but probably not locally available.
This is not an endorsement of Amazon. This model is nice because it will work with all the usual voltages.
You don't particularly need it now but you might need the lower voltages for a different device.
https://www.amazon.com/DSD-TECH-SH-U09C5-Converter-Support/dp/B07WX2DSVB
You can probably find something for half this price that will work for your head unit.
When you connect it you'll probably have a console. It's like an ADB shell.
You have to see what you have and what the problem is and fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay then I'll buy it and then we'll try to see where the problem is...
Because a way to force the screen to turn on automatically in "Recovery mode" ? to be able to plug in the usb and try to load the other previous ROM...
Finally, what about the connector is to avoid having to solder directly to the board?
If you have a console there you should be able to "reboot recovery" or "reboot fastboot" or maybe even "reboot edl".
Renate said:
If you have a console there you should be able to "reboot recovery" or "reboot fastboot" or maybe even "reboot edl".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok but, I mean now without connecting TTL etc. Simply by doing a pinout or something else, there would be no way to activate that recovery mode?
Renate said:
If you have a console there you should be able to "reboot recovery" or "reboot fastboot" or maybe even "reboot edl".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Console? I don't know what you mean here... Before buying the TTL or after?
A console is the Linux-like command line that you can get from Android over ADB, over a UART or in a "terminal" app.
If Android didn't start at all you might get a console to talk to u-boot.
I don't think you can do anything until you get a console.
You need a USB UART unless you have a PC with a 9 pin com port and enough parts to build a level shifter.
You don't have to solder to the board. I'd advise you not to if you're not a good solderer.
You can stick pins or wires in the holes and tape them down so that there is a little sideways pressure.
That's good enough to get things working.
If you're always using this you probably want a connector.
There are probably "secret" ways like holding some number of buttons and doing a reset.
Renate said:
I've been fighting with this thing. I can't toggle the preview button without it giving me an error.
A console is the Linux-like command line that you can get from Android over ADB, over a UART or in a "terminal" app.
If Android didn't start at all you might get a console to talk to u-boot.
I don't think you can do anything until you get a console.
You need a USB UART unless you have a PC with a 9 pin com port and enough parts to build a level shifter.
You don't have to solder to the board. I'd advise you not to if you're not a good solderer.
You can stick pins or wires in the holes and tape them down so that there is a little sideways pressure.
That's good enough to get things working.
If you're always using this you probably want a connector.
There are probably "secret" ways like holding some number of buttons and doing a reset.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, all understood.
Regarding the latter, that's what I was mainly asking from the beginning, if anyone had dealt with a similar "motherboard" and knew the "Secret"
Renate said:
A console is the Linux-like command line that you can get from Android over ADB, over a UART or in a "terminal" app.
If Android didn't start at all you might get a console to talk to u-boot.
I don't think you can do anything until you get a console.
You need a USB UART unless you have a PC with a 9 pin com port and enough parts to build a level shifter.
You don't have to solder to the board. I'd advise you not to if you're not a good solderer.
You can stick pins or wires in the holes and tape them down so that there is a little sideways pressure.
That's good enough to get things working.
If you're always using this you probably want a connector.
There are probably "secret" ways like holding some number of buttons and doing a reset.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I already have the usb ttl, but I am doing something wrong or it does not detect the board, I am attaching some photos so you can see the connections as I have made them. I don't know what procedure I have to follow to detect or access the console...
Ah, you're killing me! I don't have the connection or the data plan to download 100 Megs of photos.
Could you just paste text please? You can wrap it in [code] and [/code]
https://www.putty.org/ is the standard terminal program for Windows.
Most things use a speed of 115200, 8 bits, 1 stop bit, no parity.
I'm sorry, it was because I could enlarge the photos well and thus see it better...
Renate said:
https://www.putty.org/ is the standard terminal program for Windows.
Most things use a speed of 115200, 8 bits, 1 stop bit, no parity.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have already connected putty But it does not read anything, although the rxd light does blink, but it does not receive information on the console.
I have way first to check the uart ttl converter works fine
You can use the USB UART all by itself.
Connect TX to RX and twiddle some keys. (Not connected to your Android at all.)
You should be typing to yourself.
Try rebooting and see if it spits out any text.
Are you sure that you have the direction correct?
TX on a device is RX on the USB UART.
Renate said:
You can use the USB UART all by itself.
Connect TX to RX and twiddle some keys. (Not connected to your Android at all.)
You should be typing to yourself.
Try rebooting and see if it spits out any text.
Are you sure that you have the direction correct?
TX on a device is RX on the USB UART.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok I have already tested the operation of the usb uart and correct.
Next, I have carried out the test with another "UART" connection that I have seen of the chip that mounts my "SC600Y-EM" screen and it seems that I do not receive a good response either, only number 7. I enclose screenshots.
thanks
https://www.quectel.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Quectel_SC600YSC600TWithout_PMI_Hardware_Design_V1.1.pdf
Ok, when you try to type something, do you get more squiggly boxes?
Is there cause and effect between typing and seeing something on the screen?
Try all the different baud rates in Putty, 57600, 38400, 19200, 9600
Do you have a voltmeter? Check the voltage on the TX and RX pads of the module without anything connected.
That documentation is a bit ambiguous. It's also not clear if level shifters are on the motherboard.
Renate said:
Ok, when you try to type something, do you get more squiggly boxes?
Is there cause and effect between typing and seeing something on the screen?
Try all the different baud rates in Putty, 57600, 38400, 19200, 9600
Do you have a voltmeter? Check the voltage on the TX and RX pads of the module without anything connected.
That documentation is a bit ambiguous. It's also not clear if level shifters are on the motherboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok, typing I don't get any response, no more green boxes are marked...
I've tried all speeds but it does the same thing.
Voltmeter check: "Without anything" connected where I sent you the photo in the supposed "UART" connection that you told me at the beginning with your photo, 3.5v in TX and RX.
In the connection where the "UART" connection is supposed to be on the direct chip, between 1.5v and 1.8v it varies, it goes up and down and down to 0v.
Related
I have not seen anything in the Captivate forums about UART, I2C, or really anything other then Download Mode/Recovery Mode. We could use some developers to help with this project. It's an interesting combination of hardware, software, and inter-chip communications protocols...
I think everyone knows about the 301Kohm resistor between pins 4 and 5. Did you know about the 150Kohm or the 619Kohm resistors? How about the middle battery pin?
Watch this video.
Resources
Users
One-Click Unbrick was relesed This will unbrick softbricked phones http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1153310
Kernel developers
UART Kernel debug log AND shell terminal (like adb shell without adb active) On the captivate you can get into the SBL prompt, then type
Code:
printenv
setenv SWITCH_SEL 6543
printenv
saveenv
This changes the SWITCH_SEL value from 65 to 6543 and enables extra output. This will give you a kernel debug output and drop you into a shell prompt.
Developers
bootloader source code For a simlilar samsung device: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1018862&page=68
here is the iROM,: I've rehosted it here: http://teamkomin.googlecode.com/svn-history/r75/branches/IROMcode/bootdumps.rar
here: http://www.mediafire.com/file/c9bg6gyk1cuapsz/bootdumps.rar
and here: ftp://adamoutler.dyndns.org/bootdumps.rar
we need help deciphering it. We think the annotations may be wrong. This is the unchangable code in the first few blocks of memory. There must be a way to communicate with this.
Hardware guys
S5PC110 processor datasheethttp://www.mediafire.com/file/3znisgfm3amxgpj/S5PC110_EVT1_UM10.pdf This is the processor in our phones. This documents everything which is capable natively with the processor. It is 2425 pages long.. I read through it and added some notes here.. This is the meat of the manual: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1018862&page=51
FSA9280A datasheet http://www.mediafire.com/?d4e21efhuktctcb This is the first time we've had access to this manual. Our phones use the FSA9480A chip, this chip is functionally the same. The datasheet here describes all functions available to the USB switching device. From the FSA9280 datasheet we've located all resistor values. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=14408452&postcount=62
All
The All-In-One GalaxyS HackPack hardware, software and documentation on our phones http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1111866
It has been revealed from a source which is not to be mentioned that the OM pins/registers are fixed and cannot be changed on the processor without removing the processor from the device or making some hardware modifications.
Here's some must read threads.
Fun with resistors:http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=820275 This thread shows all known resistor values
Lets save some bricks:http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1018862 This thread deals with ways to revive phones from the dead. We are hacking the heck out of them in here.
Development platform booting from MMC http://hi.baidu.com/j2h3344/blog/item/85740dfc0be35951d7887dd5.html This is the platform used to develop our phones. We need to find these OM bits, or access them somehow.
the middle battery pin http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=13448859&postcount=253 This may be the answer. We could use some help in this area.
Download the GalaxyS Hack Pack here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/show....php?t=1111866
Known Causes of hard Bricking
1. PBL(Primitive bootloader) and SBL(secondary bootloader) were not designed for the phone
2. Mismatched PBL/SBL combination
3. SBL does not fit in the Partition information table, or location does not match Partition Information Table
4. Bad USB cables
5. power loss
6. Damaged PBL/SBL
--Theoretical--
7. Something known as Secondary Bootloader Rotation may be to blame for improper bootloaders sometimes. Apparently when flashing, the SBL and SBL2 blocks may switch places. In this case you may have the proper PBL, but the SBL is not proper for the device.
Hardware Used
If you're looking to help, you'll need some development hardware. I use an Arduino Mega. http://www.bizoner.com/arduino-atme...e-p-180.html?zenid=9mg23h688slfjgh88910o5jfd2 This is a programmable interface. You can use this code to talk to the phone. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=13351363&postcount=223
Here's some plans for a communications adapter http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=925034
The plan
If we can get into a bricked phone via UART or the i2C bus, or the USB bus, or any other method available to U301, we can corrupt the PBL(boot.bin) in the OneNand which will cause the processor to search for a PBL and SBL on USB, UART and MMC.
If we can locate an additional communications port somewhere on the phone we can change or corrupt the code running in memory and then cause the processor to reboot into USB or UART mode.
So far we know of UART only and have eliminated that as a solution on it's own.
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Using SBL, it is very likely possiblity that Windows7 phone or iOS, or ubuntu could be ported over.... Basically, full control.
Why you should help
We've been working on ways to recover these phones for months now. We're comming to an end. We need massive amounts of testing to figure out this last bit.
This is a call to duty. Every developer who has ever released a boot.bin, SBL.bin, param.ifs or a PIT with their release needs to be a part of this. Every member who has ever bricked a phone while using one of the many tools which are designed to upgrade your phone can help. Anyone who wants to feel secure while flashing their phone should put some effort into this because it's expensive and requires superhuman soldering to JTAG these phones. If you've even thought about using Odin3, we need your help.
Update: UnBrickable Captivate http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1206216
Seems interesting / promising, unfortunately I can't help BC I moved back to Morocco (Africa) and only brought 1 captivate with me. Good luck that is all I can say.
Sent from my SGH-I897 using XDA Premium App
Really interesting and very cool.
But I have a fully bricked captivate which I still have cause it was a friends who just went onto the Inspire. Always have wondered if I could recover the hard brick.
Wish I could help but I'm pretty useless with Soldering and taking apart my phone. But if development moves along with this I'd love to support. The idea of porting those OS and helping everyone saving hard bricked phones would be great.
Good Luck!
Sent from my SGH-I897 using XDA App
im bookmarking this. i can only help in fabrication. im not a super genius dev. but threads/projects like this do interest me.
Middle battery pin? Reminds me of the battery jig trick on the original PSP.
All-in-all, this looks promising, I'll be following it.
Posted up the iROM in the first post. this is the code which we hope to establish communications...
Keep in mind, this could be over the USB port, the Middle battery terminal, or even the headphone port.
But I have a fully bricked captivate which I still have cause it was a friends who just went onto the Inspire. Always have wondered if I could recover the hard brick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'M GETTING ONE OF THOSE IN THE AM!!!!!
i have a fully bricked cappy that i bricked lastnight. i was able to recover from the phone..!..pc icon but then failed @95% via odin3 v1.00.
i will mail you the cappy if you can fix it and use it as a test mule for future brick\unbrick attempts...... the outer glass is broken thanks to a fall from my lap to the concrete
I think I actually discussed this with you before. I ran twice into some instance where no action would make difference on the phone, no response to key combos, no response to charger or USB. But, download mode was still accessible via USB Jig.
What could've happened there?
cumanzor said:
I think I actually discussed this with you before. I ran twice into some instance where no action would make difference on the phone, no response to key combos, no response to charger or USB. But, download mode was still accessible via USB Jig.
What could've happened there?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not really positive at this point, id suspect corrupted pbl.bin or param.lfs partitions. I've seen some weird stuff with the pbl. One phone would only output uart when volume + was held for 5 seconds.
Basically from my understanding... The IROM loads into the processor. This is the first 40000 bytes and it's protected memory. The iROM brings up basic functionality for the processor, including the initial factory UART/MMC load of PBL & SBL. The IROM then instructs the phone to load the IBL/PBL(Initial Boot Loader/Primitive Boot Loader). The IBL initializes memory for the SBL(Secondary Boot Loader) , then the PBL loads Params(a partition on the OneNAND) and checks the pins on the processor for commands. The PBL then makes more memory available for applications, then locates and and loads the SBL. The SBL initializes other functions and then locates and loads the kernel.
The SBL is responsible for Download Mode and the SBL prompt. it is basically the system's "BIOS" for lack of a better word. I'm not sure of the steps which can be skipped for sucessful download mode.
The iRom download it broken.
Ill look at it once your reupload
Some kid reported the iROM code as being in violation of the terms of agreement of the hosting website... It must have been a kid because Samsung would not do that. Just as we have a right to use tools to disassemble our phones, take pictures, annotate those pictures and post them on the internet, we have the same right to the IROM. It's not hurting Samsung's sales, nor is it intellectual property of Samsung. We bought the phones and it came with this. The only intellectual property in this document belongs to the person who disassembled and annotated this code.
I've rehosted it here: http://teamkomin.googlecode.com/svn-history/r75/branches/IROMcode/bootdumps.rar
here: http://www.mediafire.com/file/c9bg6gyk1cuapsz/bootdumps.rar
and here: ftp://[email protected]/bootdumps.rar username xda password developers
Lets not be childish and hinder progress anymore by clicking buttons. I've removed that ability.
I think this is a wonderfull bunch of work that is being done here and if i can offer any assistance please let me know. If you would like a private IRC channel to discuss your work in with other developers I would be more than happy to provide to a quiet private place to do so. Just shoot me a pm if i can be of any assistance.
We can really use some SGS folks to help. Check out the lets save some bricks thread mentioned in the first post.
Two quick questions:
1. How would you manage to get these files? First, aren't they burned into the nand? Secondly, wouldn't they be assembled already? How do you disassemble them?
2. Do you have any good links/books on how to learn arm assembly? I know some x86, but I've never found a good link to arm based stuff (or any sort of dev platform, for that matter).
Sorry about being semi-offtopic.
Subscribed, and very interested in following progress on this.
Also: Sending PM.
Nothing revolutionary to add just yet.
However, I just finished adding a JTAG breakout to my collection. This is what my current test setup looks like:
We could use some more DIYer's on this project. The biggest thing to have is an Arduino and a microUSB breakout board. We need to figure out how to get this phone to boot from MMC, USB, or UART... and we know Samsung does this to bricks.
this looks interesting.. gonna keep my eye on it
AdamOutler said:
Nothing revolutionary to add just yet.
We could use some more DIYer's on this project. The biggest thing to have is an Arduino and a microUSB breakout board. We need to figure out how to get this phone to boot from MMC, USB, or UART... and we know Samsung does this to bricks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i can build anything, the purchase of and arduino and making the breakout board are easy but i would have no idea what to do with it afterwards.
it is funny the time you posted this because my friend found out about a club that works with arduino boards making all sorts of things and asked me if i wanted to go to there meetings. this thread popped up the next day.
well i may buy an arduino board or 2 but im not sure if even then i can be helpful
Well, a pretty much unexplored area of the phone is the middle battery terminal. The middle battery terminal is a ADC(analog to digital converter) pin. We know for a fact that it triggers something called EXT-I2C (External Inter-Integrated Circuit). EXT-I2C can be used to communicate with any chip on the I2C bus. The I2C bus connects with everything on the phone... Call Processor, OneNand, Memory and Application Processor. Using the EXT-I2C, we would have full control over the phone.
I know the middle battery terminal has something to do with it because I managed to get my phone to boot-loop with the pin disconnected and I saw messages about EXT-I2C NACK( EXT-I2C not acknowledged) when playing with resistance values and watching the UART output on my Arduino MEGA.
The unanswered questions are,
How to reproduce that EXT-I2C message?
What are the Addresses on the I2C bus?
Which pins control the I2C bus?
Here's some of the possible I2C bus connections:
USB VCC
USB Ground
USB D+
USB D-
Batt+ (when powered on USB)
Batt- (when powered on USB)
BSI (Battery Signal Indicator - middle battery pin)
Headphone Left Audio
Headphone Right Audio
Headphone Video
Headphone Ground
all External-SDCard (MMC) connections
all SIM connections
This is something you can bring to the table at that Arduino club. You can also read up on this hackaday article http://hackaday.com/2011/05/11/i2c-101/
If anyone has a good idea of which pins may be OM pins here, let me know..
Side facing LCD screen
Side facing back of unit
Okay. It seems that Blu Products isn't going to explain anything about the dock port on their Studio 5.3, so I am embarking on a project to reverse engineer it. I'll update my progress here.
Pictures of the dock port:
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Pictures of the plug that fits it. It's the same 30-pin plug as found on the iPod and a bunch of other devices.
(Last 3 images from https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8295)
What I just ordered to work on this project:
(Again from https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8295)
Here's what I've figured out so far.
The cable from my iPod Nano 6th gen has pins 1, 15, 16, 23, 25 and 27. All others are missing. I haven't had time to analyze it all yet, but according to allpinouts.org, 1 is a ground, 15 and 16 are grounds and are tied together (internally on the iPod motherboard), 23 is USB +5v, and 25/27 are USB Data+/- OR, alternately, they are resistor-to-ground value-based signals.
My theory so far is that there is some internal resistance between the pins in this cable and other pins or ground; because plugging just the cable in--with it not being plugged into the USB port--disables the Blu's touchscreen and automatic screen rotation features and locks the screen in whatever position it's in when you plug in the cable. (Although interestingly, if you plug it in in landscape mode, you can use the screen rotation lock hardware button to put it back to portrait mode.) Plugging the other end of the cable into a USB port brings up the Recent Apps display (the thing that comes up when you hold the touchscreen home button down) and the phone says it's charging, but the touchscreen is still disabled. Not sure if it's actually charging or not; I'm gonna leave it plugged in for awhile and see. The phone does not show up as a new USB device when this (iPod) cable is plugged into the dock port.
Once I get the breakout board I'm gonna take the phone apart and see if I can trace where the pins in this dock port go. I'm also going to wire up a USB cable to the breakout board and see if I can get the phone to enumerate.
Hopefully I never toast my phone.
Edit for more pics from teardown:
Notice that this ribbon cable is 3 layers; those are little pieces of a paperclip holding them apart to show the layers.
It really looks like PDMI connector
If it IS a PDMI connector, would getting a usb-to-pdmi cable work to connect to the phone? I've never used pdmi. I know the Dell Streak has a pdmi port though.
You should open it to see what chips are used in that thing. That will help you a LOT to figure out what is going on...
lvnr00tddrd said:
If it IS a PDMI connector, would getting a usb-to-pdmi cable work to connect to the phone? I've never used pdmi. I know the Dell Streak has a pdmi port though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have both Dell Streak 5 and Blu Studio 5.3 and I can comfirm that the pdmi cable for the Streak does not fit in the Studio 5.3.
The ports on both are the same width and same number of pins but the Streak's pins are arranged on 2 wedges, for lack of a better term, whereas the Studio and ipods are 2 rows of pins on both sides of a single wedge. It's like the Streak has a female type port and the Studio/ipods have male type ports.
This could be some kind of dock connector that Blu has not released for our version. I've been doing some research on this phone to find the original recovery firmware and found that this exact phone is being sold under the following names:
Blu Studio 5.3
Texet TM-5200
Umeox X-Land / X-5
Pearl Simvalley SPX-5
On every "rebranded" listing I found they all had this port so it isn't just unique to the Blu. Also might try seeing if anything can be found for the MTK6573 chipset that would include this port. More info on this chipset here mediatek.com /en/Products/ featured_content.php?sn=2 {will have to copy / paste too new to post links yet}.
I've also found other indications through russian and chinese sites that this thing is being pushed in some countries as an iPhone knockoff with a custom "iOS" skin / launcher. Hard to tell for sure due to some things being lost in translation.
So to wrap it all up I would almost go for a crazy guess that this might be used on some of the "iPhone" knockoffs to fake as a 30-pin connector that may or may not actually work or only work for charging.
Its seems like its a docking port for a keyboard. I found this for Pearl Simvalley SPX-5 site found at http://www.pearl.de/a-PX3502-4072.shtml.
Now we know. I think I may import one of these to see if it works on the Blu as well. Might be disabled in the firmware though....
Just got the PodBreakout board. To the soldering station I go. Send good karma my way.
I took the entire thing apart. Everything is under full-board metal shields as can be seen from the recent post-op pic. (You can also see the breakout board.) My phone still works, so I'm not prepared to go pulling the shields off just to see what's under them. I think that the only things would be the MediaTek CPU and some RAM and Flash chips anyway. Everything else is pretty tightly integrated.
Puppeto if you get ahold of one of those keyboards please keep us updated.
Behold the wonders of voiding your warranty:
Ok here's what I've figured out so far.
1. Make sure if you take your phone apart that you reconnect all the connectors inside the phone, or else you'll spend an hour trying to figure out why the dock port won't work at all before realizing what you did.
2. Onward to real research, here's what's been found so far.
Connecting pin 15 to 16 disables the touchscreen, but there is a threshold that must be met that I haven't found yet. If the 2 pins are directly tied together the touchscreen is disabled, and if there's a 3k resistor between them it is, too. But if there's a 100k resistor inline it doesn't disable the touchscreen.
Pin 1 appears to be a ground pin.
Pin 16 is USB ground
Pin 23 is USB +5 volts
It DOES charge when just Pins 16 and 23 are connected. My next step is to find which pins are the USB Data +/-. As can be seen below, it's non-standard.
Connecting Pin 27 to ground presses the hardware multifunction button (bottom middle of the front panel)
Pin 6 to ground presses hardware power key
Pin 29 to ground presses hardware volume down key
Pin 28 to ground is an oddball. Connecting it to ground through a 10k resistor seems to start the music player AND press the hardware volume up key
Connecting pin 9 to ground with a resistor less than 4k causes a white screen followed by a black screen and the phone freezing until the battery is removed.
Audio
Pin 3 - Audio Ground
Pin 4 - Audio Right
Pin 5 - Audio Left
The audio pins appear to be connected to the same lines as the headphone jack, only they don't have the hardware external speaker disable (or if they do I haven't found it yet). Apparently, the headphone hardware triggers a software signal of some kind that disables the external speaker. I confirmed that this is the case by plugging in a set of headphones, in which case these lines still give the audio output but the external speaker is disabled. Apparently this is something that can be controlled from within Android, because there were some bug reports awhile back about the external speaker not disabling when headphones were plugged in. So we need to find (or maybe someone can write?) an app that does nothing but disable the external speaker while leaving the headphone line active.
No luck yet on getting USB working. Still hoping someone here can help me out with knowing how to monitor what's going on by using adb?
Puppeto any luck on that keyboard?
FYI received the keyboard, plugged it in, and YES it works. Didn't receive a prompt or anything when I plugged it in. I opened up a notepad app and just started typing away.
I do forewarn you though it is very cheaply made. Not something I would recommend anyone wasting their time or money on. I found it faster to just type on the screen.
Puppeto would you mind taking the keyboard apart and taking some high-res pictures of it? It would be very very helpful I think because it will have the data lines and possibly some other stuff
Please guys, is there no one trying to get flash working on this phone?
Adobe flash player worked great, however it need some mod
First install MX player then it will ask for special codec, so install them as recommended.
then you need to install UC browser ( try latest version )
Finally install flash 10.3.185.360_armv6.apk from xda
run uc browser, everything fine.
My only concern is Video skype, I couldnt run any version of skype that enables Video call please can anybody help
Hi guys,
As you can see I'm new at the forum, but I have a Motorola Atrix 4G, Rooted, Unlocked BOOTLOADER, and with the NOTTACHTRIX ROM Installed with the Darks Side Kernel....
I also recently bought a Blu Studio D510, and I have an issue with play music...
I tried with several music players, and I'm still not success...
All the type of files that I tried are .mp3 and .wma
Do you know were I need to put the files in order to used the music player?
Thank You...
Can someone please provide the ROM without the bloated softwares(facebook, twitter etc.). Just the barebone os. Reason for this is I can then install apps I want and move them to memory card. More memory available.
Found this link which seems to be the ROM. Can someone verify: http://www.pearl.de/support/product.jsp?pdid=PX3459&catid=4073&nodocs=1
chrismotto said:
Can someone please provide the ROM without the bloated softwares(facebook, twitter etc.). Just the barebone os. Reason for this is I can then install apps I want and move them to memory card. More memory available.
Found this link which seems to be the ROM. Can someone verify: http://www.pearl.de/support/product.jsp?pdid=PX3459&catid=4073&nodocs=1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its not the rom. If you are willing to try some other roms for this device (i cant find a blu rom either), search for either the umeox x3 original rom or the texet tm-5200 original rom. the umeox is in chinese and the texet is in russian but change the language in the options and change the launcher and everything should be fine. I have found the texet to be a little lighter and faster, however, i couldnt get any of the drivers to work for it. umeox uses the spx-5 drivers which windows is able to find easily. Im looking for a rom for the pearl simvalley spx-5 phone which is another clone and uses the same hardware, but i havent any luck yet. right now, though im using the umeox which also was able to be rooted with SOC and its working fine so far.. hope i could help
virustwin
Please share the link to this ROM. Thanks a lot.
Hey you all can anyone please supply me with a link to obtain the actual stock rom for the blue studio 5.3 or even a custom rom would be of great help thanking you in advance
Sent from my BLU Studio 5.3 using xda app-developers app
This was originally posted by AdamOutler and helped me a lot, so i think that EVERYONE who have a vibrant or an i9000 should know about it.
sorry if i´ve ressurected this post but it is too useful to get hidden.
Link to the original post:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1273083&highlight=unbrickable
Introduction:
I'm not kidding when I say UnBrickable. Modifying the OM pins means you can boot from USB, UART or MMC. This makes the phone quite UNBRICKABLE. There is nothing you can do software wise to prevent the device from booting into this mode. We are communicating with the unrewritable, efused IROM on the processor. It's the thing that makes the system on a chip into a "system on a chip".I am here now to tell you how to turn your Samsung Droid Charge into a KIT-S5PC110 development board. The KIT-S5PC110 development board is the platform used to develop our phones. There are some differences between this mod and the official development platform. The S5PC110 has a removable internal SDCard and no touchscreen.
Why would you want to do this? When you plug in the battery and connect it to the computer in "off" mode, it will become an S5PC110 board awaiting download of a program to run. This occurs long before anything like software or firmware enters the processor. This is the IROM of the device awaiting commands or a power on signal.
Because it is accepting a memory flash, anything may be put onto the device to perform a boot sequence..... Apple iOS (iPhone4 has the same processor) WP7 (mango supports this processor).
This will be a replacement for JTAG once we are able to make some firmware. How could it possibly be better then JTAG? Let's count the ways....
1. The only part required is a wire.
2. No shipping time.
3. No cost for a box to interface the computer.
4. Permanent.
5. Can be done as a preventive measure.
6. Gives the ability to test new Bootloaders temporarily.
7. Allows development of the entire system.
8. Removes worry about flashing and acts as a backup.
After performing this mod:
Remove the battery, replace the battery, your phone will connect to the computer via USB and await commands. Otherwise it will pretty much act like a Vibrant. See the Special Instructions section.
Modification
You will need:
1. Get someone who knows what they're doing with a soldering iron. If they don't know what flux is, then they don't know what they're doing. You can send me a PM(or email my [email protected]) or Connexion2005(aka MobileTechVideos.com). Note: I do not work for/with mobiletechvideos.com.
2. soldering iron - make sure it's sharp, if it's not sharp, then sharpen it, flux it and retin it.
3. flux
4. solder
5. tweezers
6. A relay (possibly- for the wire within to use as a bridge)
performing the modification:
1. tear apart your phone... Make sure to take out your SIM and external SDCard before you do this.
1A. Remove the screws.
1B. Separate the top case from the bottom case
1C. disconnect the display connector and free the camera and button assemblies from the case.
1D. Remove the mainboard
****VIDEO OR PICTURES NEEDED*****
2. Perform the mod as follows: Replace the xOM5 resistor from the top position to the bottom position.
*OR: remove the xOM5 resistor and jumper the center pads of xOM5 to the center pads of xOM0 or xOM3.
Thanks to ChauncyG for the device board.
3. reassemble the phone.
Special Instructions
This replaces the battery charging sequence. The normal battery charging sequence can be activated by holding power for 4 seconds.
To turn on the device, and operate in normal mode, you must hold the power button for 5 seconds.
3 button Download mode works as usual, however you must not have the S5PC110 drivers installed on the computer. You can use your custom rom menu option, adb reboot download, or use a terminal to "reboot download". 301Kohm Factory Mode JIGs work as well, but you must press power to bypass the S5PC110 mode.
To enter recovery mod, press and hold power for 3 seconds, then hold volume+ and volume- until the screen comes on then release.
Conclusion
Congratulations. You now have a device which works like a KIT-S5PC110 with an OM Value of 29. Now get to developing some serious custom software. See here for setting up the UART output http://forum.xda-developers.com/show....php?t=1235219
reading material
Creating your own Samsung Bootloaders: http://forum.xda-developers.com/show....php?t=1233273
KIT-S5PC110 manual: http://www.mediafire.com/?94krzvvxksvmuxh
how to use DNW: http://tinyurl.com/dnw-how-to
Flash using openOCD and DNW: http://www.arm9board.net/wiki/index....penOCD_and_DNW
another DNW example: http://www.boardset.com/products/mv6410.php
ODroid dev center: http://dev.odroid.com/projects/uboot/wiki/#s-7.2
drivers and utilities
This will be an ever expanding list
Windows Drivers http://forum.xda-developers.com/atta...7&d=1312590673
Windows Download Tool DNW: http://forum.xda-developers.com/atta...8&d=1312590673
Windows Command Line Download Tool: http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...3&postcount=27
Linux DNW Utility: http://dev.odroid.com/projects/uboot/wiki/#s-7.2
firmware
One-Click Resurrector: http://forum.xda-developers.com/atta...5&d=1314762609
Bootloader Hello World by Rebellos http://forum.xda-developers.com/atta...7&d=1314105521
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http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?
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This trick saved my phone one mounth ago...but you must be really good in soldering
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA
mikka06 said:
This trick saved my phone one mounth ago...but you must be really good in soldering
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, and I lost U$100 because i have not seen this tutorial before....
I hard bricked my vibrant about 6 months ago, Odin, completely my fault. I hadn't seen the unbrick/mod yet so I sent it to Josh at mobile tech videos for JTAG. I came across this mod a day after I shipped. I sent Josh a message and he did the mod for me. Outstanding service, I highly recommend it if you love to flash. Don't wait until bricked. If you don't feel comfortable tearing apart your phone and soldering go to mobiletechvideos, quick professional service.
Vibrant
Ics Passion
Sent from my SGH-T959 using xda premium
I'm afraid your xda links are all broken, 404, not found.
cashmundy said:
I'm afraid your xda links are all broken, 404, not found.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah,links are broken,later on ill try to find mirrors on google,
You can help me if you want to.
Really dead vibrant
Are you sure it can get a really dead vibrant back?
I've tried the button combo,the 301k jig nothing get it into download mode. It just completely dark no sign of live.
vtp said:
Are you sure it can get a really dead vibrant back?
I've tried the button combo,the 301k jig nothing get it into download mode. It just completely dark no sign of live.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It worked for all the people who tried that. I did it also and saved my vibrant. But you need perfect soldering skills or try to find someone to do it.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA
help?
Hello friends
I tried to understand the instructions but I could not understand anything
Is anyone ready to upload a picture that explain it better?
how?
mikka06 said:
This trick saved my phone one mounth ago...but you must be really good in soldering
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can you explain how to do the mod?
you have to change a position of 1 resistor on the mainboard of your phone,
then install new drivers and the programs on your pc to get the special features of it.
Can you plz post high quality pics of this mode
khan_frd2002 said:
Can you plz post high quality pics of this mode
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i can give you the thread links that i followed when i did this trick. It's so small as it's really hard to get a high quality picture. Just read every page, i remember some guys posted some usefull pictures
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1273083
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=17858853#post17858853
Wish I wouldve sweden this some time ago. I'm on my second vibrant, geesh..
Hi folks,
I have a hardware/software project that I'm building on a Galaxy Nexus phone and I would like to exert full control over the FSA9480 chip that switches the phone's pogo pins and micro-USB port between the USB and charging circuits.
The overall goal is to have a USB accessory plugged into the phone at all times, including in a pogo-pin based charging dock. Since the default "auto" switching mode keeps the phone in USB-host mode as long as the OTG cable is plugged in, the phone will not currently charge in the pogo dock.
Thanks to Adam's great thread on the FSA chip, I've been able to control the FSA chip via the i2c interface, using the i2c tools in his hack pack. (Heading to those threads to leave my thanks as soon as I get this FP in).
Even though I can check the registers and in fact see that the switches inside the FSA chip are in the modes I specify, the phone doesn't do the things I expect it to, like charge or enter USB accessory mode. I suspect this is because I've unloaded the FSA kernel module in order to access the i2c device. I was hoping that merely connecting the wires to the right places via the FSA would do things like enable the USB connection or allow the device to charge. Alas, that does not seem to be the case.
Since Google has declined to share the source for this phone, I've been poking around and assuming that their driver is similar to this code and this header. I love that fsa9480_SetManualSW is exported, but I have no idea how I might access that method, if it is in fact in the Nexus code. I'm searching through the lib/*.so files now to see if there's anything FSA related there, but so far no luck.
So that's where I am - I can control the device, but that doesn't appear to be enough to do the things I want to do. I'm not sure where to go next - I don't think I should have to write my own kernel driver, but I'll be damned if I know what to try next.
Does anyone have any ideas how I might exert software control over this FSA chip, or barring that, what else I need to fool with on the i2c bus so that the phone charges or enters the proper USB mode when I set the FSA mode manually?
Many thanks in advance and I hope this is the right place for this question (Q&A section did not seem like the place for this type of question).
Peter
You're taking an interesting approach to this. However, there are a couple of things you need to explain and understand better.
1) What are these "pogo-pins" you're talking about? [There is no such thing well defined, please be specific and use correct terms for whatever it is you're trying to describe.]
2) What make you believe there is a FSA9480 in your Nexus? [There probably isn't! I know the driver is called so, but that chip probably never existed in production.]
3) Obviously (!) you cannot charge your phone and have it play (OTG) host at the same time. Why? Because charging means to short D+ and D-.
4a) You say you can "control the chip" with I2C, can you give some examples of this? But I don't know what you're actually controlling, as it doesn't make sense the way you have explained it.
4b) You also say you have unloaded the Kernel module... How did you do that?
5) It seem that you're confusing the chip signal directions. I.e. whether certain pins are designated as input or output signals...
6) There are more switches/multiplexers built into your phone. It's of essence to understand which ones you're actually controlling.
E:V:A said:
You're taking an interesting approach to this. However, there are a couple of things you need to explain and understand better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Certainly happy to explain as much as I can... let's see:
1) What are these "pogo-pins" you're talking about? [There is no such thing well defined, please be specific and use correct terms for whatever it is you're trying to describe.]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got the term "pogo pins" from this thread. They are three tiny pins on the side of the Galaxy Nexus. They allow for car and desktop docks. They provide charging through the outermost pins and a digital signal of some kind (don't care about that one for this project) on the center.
2) What make you believe there is a FSA9480 in your Nexus? [There probably isn't! I know the driver is called so, but that chip probably never existed in production.]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've simply assumed from the kernel messages and from screwing around via the i2c bus (as explained before). It may not be there, it may be something completely different, but from the software side, it behaves exactly like I'd expect the 9480 to...
3) Obviously (!) you cannot charge your phone and have it play (OTG) host at the same time. Why? Because charging means to short D+ and D-.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I glossed over that fact. Expansion: We've got a USB accessory that we would prefer to never disconnect from the phone. Since even having just the OTG cable connected drains the battery, our app is already managing power by binding/unbinding the fsa9480 driver. When unbound, the driver leaves the phone pins in (afaik) a floating state and the accessory/OTG cable does not draw current. When we want to poll the accessory, our app binds the fsa9480 driver, which results in the USB system seeing the OTG cable and connecting everything up nicely. When it's done, it unbinds the driver again and saves battery.
Since we don't want to/can't disconnect the accessory from the micro usb port, charging is an issue. So we'd like to charge the phone via the side pins (what I perhaps erroneously called the "pogo pins"). Since we're only polling for short periods, we'd like to be able to switch from USB host mode to charging mode during the period in which we are not accessing the device.
Now, I had forgotten that dedicated chargers short D+/D-. My hope was that by controlling the fsa9480, I could connect the +5V and GND pins to the battery and charge the phone, while keeping the USB accessory offline. I'm afraid I'm so tired and burnt out this may not be making sense, so please tell me what's confusing!
4a) You say you can "control the chip" with I2C, can you give some examples of this? But I don't know what you're actually controlling, as it doesn't make sense the way you have explained it.
4b) You also say you have unloaded the Kernel module... How did you do that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure! Where to start...
OK, so based on Adam's thread "Build Your Own Music Dock", linked above, I grabbed the spec sheet for the fsa9280a, which he claims is "functionally the same" as the 9480.
As you can see in the datasheet, the chip is controlled via the i2c bus. Looking at the file layout of the Nexus, I figured out the address of the chip on the bus and started plugging in commands outlined in the datasheet.
for example, setting the "Manual Switch 1" register on my Nexus is done by the command
Code:
i2cset 4 37 19 <your value>
(4 being the bus where the chip is located, 37 (0x25) being the address of the device, and 19 (0x13) being the address of the register)
The datasheet outlines all the register addresses, default values, values under certain conditions, etc. I assured myself that the datasheet was valid and I was communicating with the device I thought I was by setting and observing registers.
That "Manual Switch 1" register controls where the different wires are connected and is very important to me, as far as I know.
this is the block diagram from the spec sheet in Adam's thread above. I should have linked directly to the spec sheet, sorry.
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And this is the register description from the same document
So... let's simplify my goals and say that I want to charge the phone from the micro usb port without connecting the USB host device (USB HS in the block diagram) to the micro USB connector: I'd want DP_CON and DM_CON floating and Vbus_in (on the micro connector) connected to Vbus_out (on the blue CHARGER IC in the upper left). I set the proper registers to do that, and things "should just work", right? (this is assuming I do things like initing the device, etc in the proper order, which I think I am)
They don't. Because I'm confident that the proper registers are set on the FSA, I'm assuming that the internal connections are all as I expect. Thus, my suspicion is that I need to do something more to get Android to start charging off the current coming in through Vbus_in...
Oh, and before I forget: unless I unbind/unload the driver for the FSA9480, I can't write to its address via the i2c tools because the driver already owns that address. I think of this driver as a kernel module, maybe that's incorrect or imprecise. Apologies.
5) It seem that you're confusing the chip signal directions. I.e. whether certain pins are designated as input or output signals...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope the block diagram cleared this up. I too was confused by the Vbus_in/Vbus_out thing. I really should have linked that datasheet.
6) There are more switches/multiplexers built into your phone. It's of essence to understand which ones you're actually controlling.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agreed.
With that massive clarification, does that help? I'm starting to think this is something hovering right at the intersection of hardware and software. Maybe it's time I looked at writing my own device driver, or expanding the existing one?
E:V:A said:
3) Obviously (!) you cannot charge your phone and have it play (OTG) host at the same time. Why? Because charging means to short D+ and D-.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You had better explain that slowly to my Nook, because it's sitting beside me here charging and connected to two keyboards and a USB audio adapter.
Shorting D+ and D- is a convention to tell the device that it can draw a lot of current.
Even without the data lines shorted, a device can charge.
Moreover, if you tell your device in software to do a high current charge, it can.
Solution: use host mode and charge at the same time.
One connector does it all.
One thing I noticed while playing with the FSA chip was some of the registers would not change. They may be overridden by resistor values.
To put the device in host mode, short pin 4-5. To put it in charging mode short 3-4. It may be possible to change the host mode to charge the battery over i2c.
This may or may not be possible.
The main problem I was having was in the SBL most registers would stay static.
Playing with I2C sounds like fun, but all that stuff already has drivers.
The drivers that I've seen already have user hooks in the file system to get things done.
For example:
Code:
echo 1500000 > /sys/devices/platform/bq24073/force_current
Sets the charging current on a Nook touch to maximum.
(Your device probably uses something different.)
@Renate NST: Yes, I should have been more careful with my words. I meant charging as operating as a high current Dedicated Charging Port (DCP). But then again thebeerbaron already understood this.
@thebeerbaron: Here are your "pogo-pins" (right side is towards the top of the phone):
The pins and their function is loosely described in this thread, and very nicely used in this thread, so it seem that the following is true:
Code:
[SIZE=2]P1 +5V
P2 Signal: 1-wire interface, using MFM encoding
P3 GND[/SIZE]
(check these!)
I don't have the Samsung parts list of the GT-I9250 so I still don't know what those chips are. But U601 is a Fairchild chip and could be another type of switch. On the other side of this board you find the multiplexers U809 and U810 configured like this:
So how did you unbind/unload that "driver"? [I'm curious to see what driver/Kernel module this is.]
And here is another relevant hack for a wireless charger, But the interesting part is the Kernel hack mentioned:
For those of you wanting to charge at AC speeds instead of USB, Fast Charge Mod is here!
1) Install Franco Kernel (Milestone 1)
2) Run this script to activate it from the terminal (minus quotes):
Code:
echo 1 > /sys/kernel/fast_charge/force_fast_charge
and the UI Mode Manager code over here.
E:V:A said:
I meant charging as operating as a high current Dedicated Charging Port (DCP).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, but I can still pump 1.5 Amps into my Nook while using host mode.
I'm not sure how you are differentiating things here.
Renate NST said:
Ok, but I can still pump 1.5 Amps into my Nook while using host mode.
I'm not sure how you are differentiating things here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, Samsung try to conform to the "Battery Charging 1.1" standards, and that's how DCP is defined in there. The limitations are then also present in the chips and/or in the one or more PMIC Kernel drivers. So your NST is either not conforming to any standards or just have a hell-of-a-hacked Kernel, or both.
This project is interesting because it's exploring some hybrid between kernel hacking and hardware tweaking, and not just building a regular charger, which we all know how to do. If you are interested in knowing what kind of crazy hardware is included in a Galaxy class Samsung phone, you can have a look here.
Generally speaking, as far as standards go, you're not supposed to even try to charge something while it's in host mode.
Still, it's a useful thing to do if you want to use your device docked.
The kernel on my Nook is stock. I'm just giving commands to control the charge current.
Renate NST said:
Ok, but I can still pump 1.5 Amps into my Nook while using host mode.
I'm not sure how you are differentiating things here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know about the NST, but my Nook Tablet has several additional pins dedicated to charging the device, it's not a true USB port.
What's going on here is trying to convince the USB port to go into host mode, where it natively supplies 5VDC, but instead reverse it, use the 5V line to charge the device and supply 5V from an external source.
While the NT has a dedicated charging circuit, this device repurposes its usb pins based on input conditions. So here's what I see being required
1. Ground USB pin 4 to activate HOST mode.
2. shut off 5V power supply from FSA chip
3. set registers in FSA to charging mode.
Renate NST said:
Generally speaking, as far as standards go, you're not supposed to even try to charge something while it's in host mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's pointless to discuss standards of what should and should not happen unless we are on the same page. Here are the specs.
Sorry.
/me wanders off elsewhere.
Sorry for the slow reply folks, I appreciate the input, but got sidetracked onto another project today. Wearing many hats means making a lot of context switches!
Renate NST said:
Shorting D+ and D- is a convention to tell the device that it can draw a lot of current...Solution: use host mode and charge at the same time.
One connector does it all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't tried charging during host mode, as we were trying to keep the external wiring changes to a minimum. Based on what I found last night though, we may go with a completely external solution...
AdamOutler said:
To put the device in host mode, short pin 4-5. To put it in charging mode short 3-4. It may be possible to change the host mode to charge the battery over i2c.
This may or may not be possible.
The main problem I was having was in the SBL most registers would stay static.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If we go with the external wiring solution, this will be what we do. When I set the FSA to various modes over i2c, it did not charge or connect the USB device as it should. This is very likely because the kernel is listening to the FSA for state changes and telling other devices how to behave based on those states. That's sad.
What is the SBL?
Renate NST said:
Playing with I2C sounds like fun, but all that stuff already has drivers.
The drivers that I've seen already have user hooks in the file system to get things done.
For example:
Code:
echo 1500000 > /sys/devices/platform/bq24073/force_current
Sets the charging current on a Nook touch to maximum.
(Your device probably uses something different.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, this is how things should behave. Unfortunately, the Samsung engineers who wrote this device driver were rather short sighted.
If you wade through this mailing list discussion (sorry, I apparently can't link until 8 posts... https://lkml.org/lkml/2011/6/29/124), you'll see the engineers need several attempts to get their code approved. The most interesting part to note (for me), is that they create the device file /sys/bus/i2c/devices/.../switch, which accepts input from userspace and sets the FSA9480 "manual switch 1" register appropriately. Unfortunately for me, they only coded a small portion of the possible states for this register and will not accept arbitrary values. UGH!
I sat down with the GN last night and tried using the /sys/bus/i2c/devices/.../switch device to set the manual mode. What I discovered is that even though this obviously passes values into the driver module (it prints a kernel message when I set a bogus value), the values don't "stick". In the driver code (I'm still not 100% sure I have the right source, but I think I'm close.. again, sorry for lack of clickability: https://bitbucket.org/franciscofranco/android-tuna-omap/src/388ae9aa9b26/drivers/misc/fsa9480.c), it has a _detected function, which gets called whenever the cable changes and overrides any manual settings I put in. For example, I set the "switch" file to "AUDIO", yet the phone remained in USB accessory mode, and plugging/unplugging did nothing. Sigh.
The lesson is, apparently, that I need to write my own driver module, which can replace this fsa9480.c transparently and allow me to ignore cable change detections and provide me with a way of setting the FSA state manually (with more flexibility than the Samsung engineers allowed). We're thinking about a different approach, but this may yet get done...
E:V:A said:
So how did you unbind/unload that "driver"? [I'm curious to see what driver/Kernel module this is.]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some great background info in here, thanks! I'll have to sit down and process this another day.
To unbind the fsa9480 driver, I do:
Code:
echo -n "4-0025" > /sys/bus/i2c/drivers/fsa9480/unbind
And to bind it, I do:
Code:
echo -n "4-0025" > /sys/bus/i2c/drivers/fsa9480/bind
E:V:A said:
This project is interesting because it's exploring some hybrid between kernel hacking and hardware tweaking, and not just building a regular charger, which we all know how to do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, that's what's interesting and what's making this difficult. It's kind of a gray area of where the topic experts are and what I need to learn...
Thanks for your input all... maybe something will come along that'll save me from writing a kernel module... fingers crossed!
I am very interested in the outcome of this project. I purchased the GNex thinking I could charge it while at the same time, connecting an SSD (via SATA->USB converter) to the phone for media playback. Thanks for your hacking skills!
Renate NST said:
Generally speaking, as far as standards go, you're not supposed to even try to charge something while it's in host mode.
Still, it's a useful thing to do if you want to use your device docked.
The kernel on my Nook is stock. I'm just giving commands to control the charge current.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not true. https://github.com/CyanogenMod/andr...mmit/c7016a2513abfd522b02633b79d2f21bcb99d4e2 - The USB charging standard defines an Accessory Charger Adapter. It's signaled with a particular resistor value (36k if the code comments are correct...) on the ID pin.
Although while I thought the I9100/I777/N7000 used an FSA9480, it looks like the MAX8997 handles the task on these devices... hmm... The FSA might support this mode though, so instead of trying to force-override it, look to see if there's a particular resistor value you can hijack or, in this case, a resistor value that is standardized to provide the function you want.
I hate when I only have access to github's web interface and not the ability to grep my hard drive at home.
Hello, has anyone got this motherboard?
It is hard to find a replacement, board is CHS-503DSP v2 (ALPSFF5000-8227L chipset), motherboard is working well, aswell as Android, but has no sound coming from it to speakers.
I can't get it to work.
Please reply if anyone has solution how to fix no sound issue.
When unit is in car, Android starts , all apps and radio turns on but when out to speakers I hear only buzzing sound and noise.
Thanks.
(upper board is motherboard with core board attached to it, lower is lcd screen board)
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You could try to output sound via usb soundcard to an external amplifier instead of a new mainboard.
blue_one said:
You could try to output sound via usb soundcard to an external amplifier instead of a new mainboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would like to fix the motherboard but thanks for suggestion
Anton TNT said:
I would like to fix the motherboard but thanks for suggestion
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you expect to get from the forum?
If you want to fix that, you need to have the right tools to measure that like an oscilloscope, and the knowledge to read the board pin-out.
You can solder out the amplifier module and put in the same (or at least a similar with the same pin-out as the one which is installed.
If that helps... no one knows, because even something else can be the reason for this failure.
At least you should test with a single tone, may be 400khz, to measure the in- and output of the amplifier module.
Famous words: Take it to someone who knows how to measure the electronics, like a TV-electronic repair shop, if you find someone who is willing to repair that unit. I fear no one will do that, not even for cash money.
Best tip: Take it and throw it into the bin.
It could be a lot of things, including software.
I think that I'd check the obvious things first.
Get the pinout of the amplifier IC. Check power, shutdown signal, mute signal.
See if you can even see any audio on the input pins or whether you can inject any signal with just a probe and your body noise.
Renate said:
It could be a lot of things, including software.
I think that I'd check the obvious things first.
Get the pinout of the amplifier IC. Check power, shutdown signal, mute signal.
See if you can even see any audio on the input pins or whether you can inject any signal with just a probe and your body noise.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried all options so far with voltage multimeter. Voltages, rerouting directly on pins on amp (that goes on speakers) etc.
Sound is coming out but only noise , I mean noise like volume is up to max and you can hear buzzing sound, when antenna unpluged from device sound is distorted a starts to crackle.
That are the simptoms.
If anyone can help with their knowledge besides going to service shop thanks, if not it will go in trash bin.
Only damage I can see is one transistor in a middle of board that has burned, but I have soldered it and connected again with board.
It is giving voltage out and working.
Software isn't issue here as 8227L chipset works with variety of updates (installed and proved).
Replace capacitor c122 and resistor r33.
(,just kidding).
Sounds like audio processing/switch is dead Jim, but not as we know it.
Experience and the ability to reverse engineer is the key skill required to resolve this issue.
@rigattoni gives the best advice here. No one has a crystal ball.
Good luck, but it is a very big long shot asking people here to figure this out for you
Anton TNT said:
Only damage I can see is one transistor in a middle of board that has burned...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now wait a minute.
You never mentioned anything about a transistor being fried.
You didn't indicate it in the photo either.
Edit: Also, it's might not be a transistor, it could be a LDO.
Renate said:
Now wait a minute.
You never mentioned anything about a transistor being fried.
You didn't indicate it in the photo either.
Edit: Also, it's might not be a transistor, it could be a LDO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is LDO Jim? beam me up Scotty (clarify)
(Low DropOut) voltage regulator.
Anton TNT said:
What is LDO Jim?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
(Low DropOut) voltage regulator.
Renate said:
(Low DropOut) voltage regulator.
(Low DropOut) voltage regulator.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And where is that on board , what shape and figure
Anton TNT said:
And where is that on board , what shape and figure
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why don't you tell me?
You said that a "transistor" burned. Was it a LDO?
Both look the same. Read the numbers off it. Show a good photo of it.
Renate said:
Why don't you tell me?
You said that a "transistor" burned. Was it a LDO?
Both look the same. Read the numbers off it. Show a good photo of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here it is.. but I noticed this burned transistor or what ever it is called later...
It is on central side of motherboard close to output chip TDA (look at first picture of motherboard)
I soldered some wire on other not burned side (after that it gives some voltage out like 1-3 Volts) but same result no sound.
I ordered a same little transistor (three leg) , will try to solder that on place when arrive.
The rest Android and all other stuff works well , JUST NO SOUND coming from device, but funny thing when I attach a USB audio output , Android turns to Headset mode and music plays, but only music no FM tuner / radio app.
Trying also with flashing of memory, to get ROOT, and then to clear cache of device from root directory, but my PC with WIN 10 doesn't recognize device and with all DA COM / ADB drivers installed and step by step video online.
Anton TNT said:
I soldered some wire on other not burned side...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Doing arbitrary things in a deterministic universe rarely yields results.
Why do you believe that to be a transistor?
What transistor did you order? And why?
First thing, get some 91% isopropyl alcohol and some cotton swabs (ear cleaners).
Clean up that board so you can see something.
Find the part number of the 20 pin IC there. Get the data sheet.
With the unit off check for continuity between the gold pad on the little photo to any of the pins on that IC.
On top... To burn this part, there is always a reason why it burned. Only exchange this part may not fix the radio. You need to find the reason and fix that first.
Sorry, but reading your postings in here, I fear that you will not be able to fix that by yourself.
rigattoni said:
On top... To burn this part, there is always a reason why it burned. Only exchange this part may not fix the radio. You need to find the reason and fix that first.
Sorry, but reading your postings in here, I fear that you will not be able to fix that by yourself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is not much people arround to fix Android head units, so I'm asking help here , please understand me, as I have a little knwledge of android boards, PC yes , Android no !
If you are feeling helpfull help in any way but not in a terms of critisicm.
Thanks.
I will fix that in any way I can. That includes fixing with a help of electronic engineer or someone that knows what to do. As I mentioned only buzzing sound is coming from this board and when transferred thru USB DAC chip sounds go out so problem is some joint or this blown chip / transistor. We will see...
But I agree only on one, It is hard to do anything with no diagrams of this board.
Renate said:
Doing arbitrary things in a deterministic universe rarely yields results.
Why do you believe that to be a transistor?
What transistor did you order? And why?
First thing, get some 91% isopropyl alcohol and some cotton swabs (ear cleaners).
Clean up that board so you can see something.
Find the part number of the 20 pin IC there. Get the data sheet.
With the unit off check for continuity between the gold pad on the little photo to any of the pins on that IC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have done that , and cleaned it and then soldered a piece of tungsten soldering wire on gold plates when joints are.
I'm surprised , I tought that you saw upper picture with cleaned spot and soldered wire, but obvously you have not. If you can't see open as attachment and zoom in.
Anton TNT said:
I'm surprised , I thought that you saw upper picture with cleaned spot and soldered wire, but obvously you have not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As far as I can see you have posted 2 attached photos.
In your original post you have the large photo with motherboard and LCD.
In post #13 you show the burned spot.
If the photo in your first post shows a cleaned burnt spot then you have neglected to mention that in your first post.
Long distance repair is difficult enough without somebody not bothering to relate important information.
Renate said:
As far as I can see you have posted 2 attached photos.
In your original post you have the large photo with motherboard and LCD.
In post #13 you show the burned spot.
If the photo in your first post shows a cleaned burnt spot then you have neglected to mention that in your first post.
Long distance repair is difficult enough without somebody not bothering to relate important information.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
READ THIS LINE , I HAVE WROTE THIS BEFORE :
"Here it is.. but I noticed this burned transistor or what ever it is called later...
It is on central side of motherboard close to output chip TDA (look at first picture of motherboard)I soldered some wire on other not burned side (after that it gives some voltage out like 1-3 Volts) but same result no sound."
No matter , let's continue, happy New Year to you all and best wishes...
Yesterday I had a glimpse of success regarding sound and amplifier.
Maybe can anyone explain this...
After installing POWERAMP EQ app from playstore a few seconds of music played on main speakers, I could hear this, but in a sudden it stopped.