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Remove display from HU and operate with longer cable

Due to the problem of Opel Astra H having the 2-Din slot quite low, I want to try to install a head unit in the place of the standard Opel display on top of the dash panel. Since there is not enough space behind that display, I'd have to install only the display of the head unit and then put the unit somewhere else - maybe behind the actual 2-Din slot or the glove compartment. Since I don't have a head unit yet (partly because it depends on whether I can do the above), I thought I'd ask here.
1. Looking at pictures of various HUs, it seems removing the front panel with display should be no problem, for example on this unit - https://de.aliexpress.com/store/pro...ith-Octa-Core-2GB-Ram/600991_32805474302.html . Is this the case or are there HUs with the display glued to the HU or otherwise unable to be removed?
2. Is there just one flat cable connecting the display to the HU or are there more? I'm talking about HUs with touch buttons, like the Dasaita unit linked above, not ones with rotary knobs for Vol/Tuner and mechanical buttons for Home, Nav, Radio, etc. Maybe someone can upload a picture of his HU with the front removed?

First impression of my new Pumpkin 10.2" unit AA04121B-D01

I did it again....
Since last weekend I have the new Pumpkin here and test it extensively at my test place before I install it in the car.
Link to the radio: https://www.autopumpkin.de/autoradi...a-ram-4gb-rom-32gb-unterstutzt-fast-boot.html
Data
Scope of delivery:
2 DIN Unit
10.1 inch glossy screen, with metal frame
Cable set with 2 USB ports
User manual English/German
PX5
64-bit 8-Core Cortex-A53 1.5GHz
Android 9, build number 201907251651
MCU: CSN2_06252ß19_163051 (Despite this MCU the device is obviously a KLYDE device)
Here again an information to the MCU:
It is a PX5, but with a newer mainboard. The CSN2 devices are not firmware-compatible to the known PX5 boards, so there are no custom-roms at the moment.
First impression:
I must say, the first impression is very good.
The first startup was done after about 20 seconds.
The original launcher is as usual from Punpkin, as well as the apps included.
What's new:
Additional USB on the front panel
2 micro SD trays on the front panel
Volume control knob (illuminated)
Knob for App switching (illuminated)
App called "Tachograph," a new app for the Pumpkin USB-Dashcam.
Caravan, an app that supports rear view camera and front camera and you can switch between both cams. (did not try it...)
Sync (I don't know what it's for yet)
CD player for external CD players
An app called "Joykey Study" for certain OEM-Key-Pads, I have to do some research myself...
VoiceControl App Looks like an app for Apple's friends. The app doesn't work for Android phones (at least for mine).
The Settings menu was cleaned up, also the menu for the "factory settings". Here you don't find the strange menu anymore, but it's neatly clean arranged. Unfortunately not in German, but I think you can live with that.
Display of the battery voltage in the status bar is now possible in the "Personal settings".
Also the settings of the phone can be displayed now. Here you can see the field strength and the battery status at the top of the status bar.
The radio runs very smoothly and I was able to install all the apps I needed without any problems. Root was possible with the well-known ADB method without any problems.
The screen is connected to the radio with a flat cable plug, just slide it on and click into place.
You can turn the screen with a little effort in all directions and the holder makes a very stable impression.
First Tests:
The working temperature is important for me. With active route guidance, DAB+ active in the background, Blitzer.de active, the temperature stays ~60°C... and that without any optimization.
Yesterday I installed the radio. The first thing I noticed was, that Pumpkin is finally keeping the usual EUR installation dimensions for this radio. My previous radios always needed a reworked installation frame. A new frame is therefore due because the existing frame was reworked to fit my other units....
Potential for improvement:
Developer menu is password protected. The PW is even not known at Pumpkin. It's marked as secret... But i´m on it.
I got the information from Pumpkin that the new Android 9 design from Pumpkin is still in work. I'm curious when that will come. So I'll show you some pictures as soon I will get it from them.
On my car the phone keys don't work right now, they are not recognized by the app. So I had to change my voice key so that I can answer a call via the steering wheel and hang up (double assignment of the actions goes via long click).
Recommendation:
For me its´s a clear YES, because I don´t need any custom rom. I just use another launcher.

Please comment on the 10-inchness implementation
Did you have to cut into your car plastics? Or does it stick out an leave a gap? Was there a snug adapter with no gaps and no cutting?
Does it tilt/rotate? If it does, does it stay in place when you are operating it or wiggle under your fingers? Does it stay still on bumpy roads? Etc.

Aadieu said:
Please comment on the 10-inchness implementation
Did you have to cut into your car plastics? Or does it stick out an leave a gap? Was there a snug adapter with no gaps and no cutting?
Does it tilt/rotate? If it does, does it stay in place when you are operating it or wiggle under your fingers? Does it stay still on bumpy roads? Etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The unit is exactly 2-DIN large so there is no gap and nothing has to be cut from cockpit plastic at all.
The screen stays completely in place even when placing the hand on the top and using the thumb for a screen touch on bumpy roads.
... and yes, it stays still on bumpy roads.
For my car (Mitsubishi ASX) I need a car specific adapter, because the OEM unit is 2-DIN high but about 6cm wider than 2-DIN but with just a 6" screen and lousy firmware/UI and OS. The adapter I buyed needed to get cut, because nearly all 2-DIN chinese units are not really 2-DIN, they are a bit larger. To get the chinese units in my car, I had to cut the hole larger.
With the new unit I would be able to use the original size... so I have to buy a new one.... unfortunately...
You can tilt and rotate the screen to get rid of any glare and you can move the screen up and down, to get the right position at your dashboard.
Until now I don´t see any bad behavior.

SOLVED: Sadocom PX6 SWC and Password

I picked up an Ali Express "Sadocom" 4GB /64GB head unit for a 2000-2006 Toyota Corolla and several other related Toyotas. It's slightly wider than a regular 2din Android, but it retains the 7" screen and has two knobs and several buttons on each side. I'm putting it into a 1998 Dodge truck, and it is replacing an older 1GB/16GB unit. The new unit came with ZERO documents, there is no wiring diagram on the unit. It takes several days for the seller to respond, and they are lackluster at best- example I asked for a wiring diagram, and the response was "Which one?". In the about the unit screen, it says it is a 8259, or 8259 pro depending on which screen you are on.
I found a pinout site that had data for the Corolla, and used it by cross-referencing the connectors on the new unit. Most of the wires were the common yellow= battery, red= accessory, black= ground etc. It powered up right away and the illumination lights up when I turn on the parking lights. Speaker balance is correct. The main connector is a 16-pin connector. The only wire I did not use was the blue antenna/amp power since the truck has neither. There is a small gauge black wire with small ring terminal coming from the area of the accessory connectors. It's only a couple of inches long.
Problems I need help with solved (no thanks to vendor):
1. Steering wheel controls. There are two unidentified wires (plus the small black one on a different part of the radio), so I presumed they were the SWC wires. One was Orange/Black and the other White/Black (it was smaller and not next to the white speaker wire, that W/B wire was larger). The older Android I had in the truck worked OK with the factory SWC. My truck uses a +/- SWC system. I tried connecting the Orange/Black to + and the White/Black to - but could not program any button. I also reversed these and the radio sees no SWC input when I try to program them.
Solution: Use OR/BK radio wire to truck SWC + wire, and truck SWC - wire to radio ground wire. Both sets of controls working properly. See attached PDF for diagram.
2. (solved, see update below) I can't change the logo or any other password-protected menu functions. I Googled Sadocom and 8259 and password w/o any success. I read through several threads here, and tried the following codes w/o success (the input limit is 4 numbers- no letters)
Solution: 5678 works.
UPDATE- I did more reading and 5678 worked to unlock the radio.
UPDATE 2- The accessory power problem was user error! I forgot on these older vehicles accessory is one position back from off, not one position forward (I thought accessory was off). I was used to it being one forward after working on some newer vehicles. I have deleted that problem from the post and title for brevity.
UPDATE 3- I measured the two wires in question, and both are putting out about 3.2V positive. I wired the OR/BK to my RD/BK SWC positive wire, and my BK/BR SWC negative to the radio's ground wire. Voila! Working SWC. PDF diagram attached.

Reverse camera no image.

Hi There,
I have installed a generic android 10.1 - 2GB (RAM)+32GB (ROM) unit and have an issue with the reverse camera.
When in reverse, screen blanks out but no image.
I have had the unit and the camera replaced and have had 2 experienced installers look at the problem but no fix.
Does anyone have any suggestions to fix the problem?
Also, do you think a 12V DC Kit Power Relay Filter Rectifiers Capacitor may help?
Thanks in advance

Bondibiz said:
Hi There,
I have installed a generic android 10.1 - 2GB (RAM)+32GB (ROM) unit and have an issue with the reverse camera.
When in reverse, screen blanks out but no image.
I have had the unit and the camera replaced and have had 2 experienced installers look at the problem but no fix.
Does anyone have any suggestions to fix the problem?
Also, do you think a 12V DC Kit Power Relay Filter Rectifiers Capacitor may help?
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The radio shows the blank black screen because the radio gets no video signal.
This can be related to 2 different things:
Missing 12V power at the camera.
Measure the cam connection for ground and +12V if your reverse gear is activated.
If there is missing something, you need to follow the cable and check the connections.
The fact that the black screen is shown, tells us that the radio itself is connected correctly.
Wrong CAM-In port used.
Check if you really used the CAM-In and not the Video-In connector
The capacitor is normally not helpful if you don´t get a video signal.
You don´t tell us in your posting how the power is provided to the cam. So that may help for further investigation.

rigattoni said:
The radio shows the blank black screen because the radio gets no video signal.
This can be related to 2 different things:
Missing 12V power at the camera.
Measure the cam connection for ground and +12V if your reverse gear is activated.
If there is missing something, you need to follow the cable and check the connections.
The fact that the black screen is shown, tells us that the radio itself is connected correctly.
Wrong CAM-In port used.
Check if you really used the CAM-In and not the Video-In connector
The capacitor is normally not helpful if you don´t get a video signal.
You don´t tell us in your posting how the power is provided to the cam. So that may help for further investigation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The power to the cam is provided by connecting the positives from the camera to the reverse light positive input and the negative earthed. This is then connected to the android head unit, video input and the reverse cable.

Bondibiz said:
The power to the cam is provided by connecting the positives from the camera to the reverse light positive input and the negative earthed. This is then connected to the android head unit, video input and the reverse cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you check that the Cam is connected to the CAM-IN connector at the unit?
...and did you measure the voltage delivered to the cam?
Which car are you driving? Does it have LED back lights?
Does the cam deliver a picture if you connect it directly to +12V instead of using the back light?
Without measuring, there is no need to answer from your side. This is mandatory to step forward.

i have the same issue. reverse camera show during installation but after few hours no image. only can see the lines. i connect the rca to my tv.it show reverse image .

I already wrote it in another topic. You need to use search instead of a new topic.. I don't know which car and which head unit. I had a VW Golf 6 powered by the reversing light and there was interference, stripes across the image. There are suppressors for powering from the reversing light, also on AliExpress. But the better option is mine. I found a pin on my main unit directly for powering the backup camera, which has 12v when I put it in reverse. It works perfectly, without interference or problems. I have a Can-Bus system. I'll put the pin-out of my unit here. Maybe it will help you.
And what about the black image after putting it in reverse, either there is no 12v power supply for the camera, or the input for the camera is incorrect.. use the cinch Reverse Cam input, do not plug into the cinch Cam-in this it is used for the front camera. Another option is to set the main unit for the backup camera, maybe the system is NTSC and it is set to PAL, or vice versa, depending on where you come from. Another option is to set the input of the backup camera type AHD, and the camera is normal, SD, I I tried the AHD type (better quality) and the picture was black. Inform us.

I got some issued on my android car head unit. No video input, on reserse.
Usinf canbus cable pink for electricity.
Check the video here :

head unit not power on

Hello friends,
Today I received the multimedia system that I ordered from AliExpress and of course the frame did not arrive compatible with the car (as I was promised),
But I improvised and managed to overcome it,
The problem is that I connect all the cables properly and turn on the car but the unit just doesnt turn on,
Maybe I'm missing something and I don't know? I even tried replacing the fuse, but nothing.
In the video you can see everything, although in the video I only connect the power cable, but before that I tried with everything...
the system should turn on even when nothing is connected except the power cable, right?
I would appreciate your help because I am at a loss and the seller is not really helpful..
seat ibiza 2016

yanivos89 said:
Hello friends,
Today I received the multimedia system that I ordered from AliExpress and of course the frame did not arrive compatible with the car (as I was promised),
But I improvised and managed to overcome it,
The problem is that I connect all the cables properly and turn on the car but the unit just doesnt turn on,
Maybe I'm missing something and I don't know? I even tried replacing the fuse, but nothing.
In the video you can see everything, although in the video I only connect the power cable, but before that I tried with everything...
the system should turn on even when nothing is connected except the power cable, right?
I would appreciate your help because I am at a loss and the seller is not really helpful..
seat ibiza 2016
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should read the installation guide.
There are 2 power lines necessary to get it booting, and a ground to the car body.
There is a red one (mostly) which has BAT power at all time, and most probably a yellow one marked with ACC. This line switches the radio on when you turn the ignition key to on, so this line needs 12V from the ignition.

rigattoni said:
You should read the installation guide.
There are 2 power lines necessary to get it booting, and a ground to the car body.
There is a red one (mostly) which has BAT power at all time, and most probably a yellow one marked with ACC. This line switches the radio on when you turn the ignition key to on, so this line needs 12V from the ignition.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this are the cables that i have

yanivos89 said:
this are the cables that i have
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use a voltmeter or test light and measure the lines Battery, ACC and Ground.
Battery should have constant power and ACC should be powered if the ignition is on.
What is about the missing connection here?

yanivos89
To add the may be missing information:
You don´t feed the unit with any power. There is a connector with yellow and red line from both connectors, but you need to connect the one from the Quadlock to the head unit cable tree with the same colors. In the second picture I think there is an open connector for that.

thanks, you mean these orange and red wires? i connected them but still nothing

yanivos89 said:
thanks, you mean these orange and red wires? i connected them but still nothing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that this connector does not fit your car
Connectors in green area are used for speakers. And metal connectors in plug (from vehicle) are present.
Connectors in red area are used to supply power [battery+, ground, ACC], buttons illumination etc. and metal connectors are NOT present.
Look at blue arrows for reference
What is cars brand, model and production year?

wotii098 said:
I think that this connector does not fit your car
View attachment 5799475
Connectors in green area are used for speakers. And metal connectors in plug (from vehicle) are present.
Connectors in red area are used to supply power [battery+, ground, ACC], buttons illumination etc. and metal connectors are NOT present.
Look at blue arrows for reference
What is cars brand, model and production year?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
seat ibiza 2016

wotii098 said:
I think that this connector does not fit your car
View attachment 5799475
Connectors in green area are used for speakers. And metal connectors in plug (from vehicle) are present.
Connectors in red area are used to supply power [battery+, ground, ACC], buttons illumination etc. and metal connectors are NOT present.
Look at blue arrows for reference
What is cars brand, model and production year?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have the same unit and cable tree?
I can´t see the counterpart of the Quadlock connector coming from the unit.
To get a proper answer, we should see both connectors from the front and the back.

rigattoni said:
Do you have the same unit and cable tree?
I can´t see the counterpart of the Quadlock connector coming from the unit.
To get a proper answer, we should see both connectors from the front and the back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, those connectors are taken from yanivos89 photos - left is harness from his SEAT, right is from his android head unit.
There is no way to connect 52pin quadlock to 40 pin quadlock, even if plug physically it can be connected, the pins inside simply dont match.
yanivos89 said:
seat ibiza 2016
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Best you can do is contact seller and ask for new harness. You need 52 quadlock connector, similiar to rest of modern VW group cars
Volkswagen (2015-2020) WG8 Sensor-Screen Bluetooth Head Unit pinout diagram @ pinoutguide.com
Additionaly you need to know that in your case everything is highly dependable on CANBUS decoder - harness from your car doesn't provide ACC signal to wake radio or signal for buttons illumination. It is solved via CAN signals.
Maybe CANBUS decoder also has to be replaced if wrong harness was sent.

Ahhh... didn´t see that.
You are right. In this case he has a wrong cable tree from Ali.

thanks very much to you both! i will check this,
what about the canbus? also need to replace or it fit?

yanivos89 said:
thanks very much to you both! i will check this,
what about the canbus? also need to replace or it fit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...but you told us, that you was aware that the unit does not fit your car, right?
Wasn´t that good your decision to buy a not matching unit, right? Makes it complicated to reconfigure that stuff.
In this case: I think you will have to pay for a harness and may be also for a new CAN box. Try to buy one from the seller, or:
You also can buy a harness for VW/Skoda/Seat and crimp it to the current harness.
In this case you need to follow the connection graph on the unit and compare this with a picture of the OEM connector. Should be found on Google. May be the CAN connector works, may be not. There are a lot of CAN boxes available for your car in combination with Chinese aftermarket radios.
Good luck!

I think your car is MQB platform and the radio is for PQ platform. 52pin qadlock to 40pin. Maybe a reduction will help you
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mN4W48q

the harness of the 52 pins did solve my problem, thanks everyone for the help!