Related
I have a jy-ul135n2 but no steering wheel controls in my car. I would like to laser cut a bezel for the head unit that has a row of hardware radio buttons directly under the head unit for << < (pause) > >> etc., as they are much easier to use while driving then a touchscreen. What inputs is the HU looking for on the Key 1 and Key 2 wires? I vaguely recall reading somewhere that this is a resistance based input scheme to decode which button is pressed? Is that correct or is it something else?
Can anyone explain what i need to know to implement this or provide a link that explains it? I just need to know how to wire the Key 1 and Key 2 wires and what inputs they need to see. I can figure the rest out myself. It seems the other option is Canbus controls. I suppose i could find a stand-alone canbus steering wheel control module from another vehicle or aftermarket and kludge it in between my buttons and and the HU canbus input... but that seems overly complicated and a bit Rube Goldbergish way to go about it if i don't need to.
JY-UL135N2 said:
I have a jy-ul135n2 but no steering wheel controls in my car. I would like to laser cut a bezel for the head unit that has a row of hardware radio buttons directly under the head unit for << < (pause) > >> etc., as they are much easier to use while driving then a touchscreen. What inputs is the HU looking for on the Key 1 and Key 2 wires? I vaguely recall reading somewhere that this is a resistance based input scheme to decode which button is pressed? Is that correct or is it something else?
Can anyone explain what i need to know to implement this or provide a link that explains it? I just need to know how to wire the Key 1 and Key 2 wires and what inputs they need to see. I can figure the rest out myself. It seems the other option is Canbus controls. I suppose i could find a stand-alone canbus steering wheel control module from another vehicle or aftermarket and kludge it in between my buttons and and the HU canbus input... but that seems overly complicated and a bit Rube Goldbergish way to go about it if i don't need to.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why not something simple "out of the box" like this one (also watch the video) or this one?
Or the original Joying one, which is apparently identical to the first but much more expensive.
Thanks for the suggestions.
I did consider the first link (the clamp on kidney bean shaped controller). The problem with this unit is i have a 2001 Accord LX. The unit is designed to go on the right side of the wheel which is already occupied by the cruise control pod. I could mount it on the left upside down, but even then i'm not sure their is enough room between the spokes where it would be best to mount it. and anywhere else on the wheel would be awkward to use. And personally i just think it's a cheap and ugly looking clamp-on aftermarket solution. The second one is interesting but not sure where i would mount it, and with both of them... batteries. I don't want a battery operated controller.
My brother has a 60W CNC laser cutter, and I'm already going to be laser cutting a black acrylic bezel to fill the gap between the HU and dash bezel anyway, so adding buttons to it too is not a problem. And part of the reason i picked up an android HU is as a hobby project/device anyway.
I never do anything fun with my phone or tablets that i use everyday. I just want them to work as utilitarian information appliances. My HU is another matter... something to play around with and customize. I wouldn't have bought one otherwise, as they seem to be a work in progress that are not ready for prime time straight out of the box. It doesn't matter if i brick it for a few days before i figure out how to recover it for example. My life will go on without much interruption unlike my phone/tablet if i screw something up.
For myself i don't care if the tactile controls are on the wheel or below the head unit, just that they look good and work. And placing them below the head unit is a much more straight forward project. Putting them on the wheel requires wireless linking and batteries, or running the wires up through the column and clockspring. Frankly I'm just not that motivated, and the after market controllers all seem a poor fit for my wheel and aesthetic tastes.
BTW i though about getting the stereo controls (or wheel) off an Accord EX, but looks like i'd need to pull the wheel to swap it in and it only has 3 buttons anyway. A lot of work for little gain IMO...
OK, I just did a bit of googling and found a thread on the joying forum about steering wheel controls (SWC). This seems to confirm that the Key 1 & 2 inputs are resistance based. The wiring seems to go (something) like this...
Each switch has a resistor in series with it. Each switch/resistor pair are then wired in parallel with the others. One side goes to ground and the other to Key 1. Key 2 can be used for an additional group of keys wired the same way, only wired to Key 2 instead. There may be an additional resistor on the parallel leg of the circuit too?
Sorry i can't post a link to the joying forum thread as i'm a new member who is blocked from posting links. A couple of relevent quotes from the thread...
"So correct me if im wrong. Steering wheel key 1 is just measuring resistance to ground to assign a button function to it correct? Same with key 2 i would guess. And what are the acceptable resistance ranges and how much of a difference in resistance do you need for it to work? I am making a remote control for the passenger side of my rv and was hoping to confirm specs prior to attaching it."
"I was right made up a circuit 75 ohm then 10 ohm increments seems to work fine."
"This particular Outback has two wires coming from the OEM steering wheel controls (SWC, 6 buttons) via a 24 pin plug. Wires are labelled SWC+ and SWC-. They provide a resistance of 4.7kOhm with no buttons pressed or other, specific resistances for each of the 6 buttons on the steering wheel. There is no ground reference.
Initially I made the mistake of connecting SWC+ to Key1 and SWC- to Key2 thinking the unit would measure across both. In this configuration the unit did not recognize pressed keys though. The reason is that the unit is trying to measure resistance to ground and not from Key1 to Key2. Key2 appears to be just another input incase there are additional controls from the wheel. The solution for my car is to wire the SWC- coming from the steering wheel to a ground instead, say battery ground. The SWC+ remains connected to Key1 and this way everything works fine with all 6 buttons recognised. "
I'll need to pull my head unit and extend the Key 1 & 2 wires and do a little of experimenting to figure out the resistance range and steps needed for the head unit to recognize individual key presses. I have a JY-UL135N2 running the Feb. 22nd firmware update. I went into car settings / steering controls. It displays two rows of key functions that can be assigned to the SWC keys. I think you press and hold the SWC button and tap and the corresponding button on the settings screen that you wish to map to it. The top row of buttons in car settings have a number above each button which fluctuates between 254~255. The second row of buttons in car settings doesn't have the number above them, so not quite sure about those yet...
So it would appear Key 1 & 2 are ADC inputs that are measured in reference to ground, and the head unit sees a number from 0-255 depending on the resistance of the key pressed.
It looks like this should be a fairly simply project. I just need to find the time to do it.
edit:add - If you google "joying key 1 2 resistance" the carjoying forum thread about SWC is the first link (for me anyway), it's titled "Learning Steering wheel control for Joying car stereo - Joying Forum".
First off, i'm aware this is a 2017 thread i'm adding onto but my addition is relevant to this.
So i have an unbranded 10" android SC9853i HU in my 2012 Opel Astra J Sports Tourer (Fancy name eh ) and it has a single blank button which i intend to use as a hardware home button. It is just a cover plate that can be turned into a button with a little creativity. I've been reading around on the forum (and Googled) the use of the KEY1 and KEY2 wires on android devices. As is, they are currently not connected and used, but through some type of wizardry i can't comprehend, the steering wheel buttons do work. I suspect this is being interpreted via the wiring in some other way.
From what i've researched so far i learned that these wires measure resistance and the SWC Control app on the device picks these measurements up and does something with it (?)
From what i've found so far, i believe i will be able to make a custom hardware button with a specific resistance. I am however unable to find a good clear cut tutorial or explanation on how to make said button and how to create the resistance or what value. I read that the app for the button learning gives values from 0 to 255. I am slightly concerned about the fact that all values of the app are 255 and every now and then go to 245 or a tad lower. I don't really know what this means (for now).
I do know that this app has absolutely no effect on the current steering wheel buttons because if i try to reprogram one, it just does its assigned function so from what i read, this app is meant to be used with the KEY1 and KEY2 wires.
If someone knows, or can point me in the right direction to make such a button, please do. If me doing so could potentially result in me making the car fly, or change its body color, also tell me and stop me from doing that please
Thanks
PS: i will continue my research regardless of someone flat out telling me how to do this exactly or not. In the case nobody will or can, i will post my progress here nevertheless.
So, after an evening of research into how SWC works and what is needed to make it work, i went ahead and did the thing i set out to do. I've read about those boxes you need to put in between the radio and ISO plug in older cars. I had this on my previous car (Opel Astra G with Kenwood DAB+ 1 DIN). but reading around i did notice that this SWC app acts like one of those boxes and is programmable. So i want on a scavenge trip in my partsbin in search for resistors and buttons. You'll never guess what i killed to get the parts. An old incredibly yellowed broken Microsoft PS/2 mouse. I tend to not throw away old electronics just to steal the parts from them later. I stole the 3 buttons from the mouse and found a bund of blue 10K resistors. I read that the beige resistors have a tolerance of 5% and the blue ones 1% to 2%. I made 3 buttons (and will likely make more in the future) 1 with 1 10K resistor, a second with 2, 10K resistors in series (pictures will follow) and a third with (you guessed it) 3, 10K resistors again in series. i bunched the ends together and soldered it to 2 single wires, one destined for GND and the other for KEY1
I found that this HU only has a single KEY1 wire, so i connected my newly made loom to KEY1 and ground, connected the negative of the car battery back up (i don't need to tell you guys this is a wise idea to disconnect it before you go and mess with wires... do i? ) and went into the control app. I'll admit, i was slightly nervous. I pushed one of my newly made buttons, and lo and behold, the app said, something along the line of "now press the button to learn. (Gotta love chinese translations, Chinglish, i heard someone once call it ).
I programmed all 3 buttons, and they work like an absolute charm. One i set to GPS which simply starts Waze in my setup. Another one is programmed for what i set this project out to be, a home button. And the third, i wasn't sure of what to set it to, so for now i picked the power button. This actually puts the device in sleep mode. Pretty neat, i didn't know it was capable of that through a button.
So in the next post i will make here will be how i but the stolen mouse button dedicated for "home" behind the blank button. Still not sure where i should put the other 2. There are 4 blank ones at the climate control panel, since i don't have heated seats or steering wheel heating. I'll see what i do with those. The most important one for me is the home button.
So, you might wonder, why did i do this since these vertical units come with a bottom bar thing that has climate controls, volume control and home and back buttons? AirController_190000000_com.syu.air.apk. Well, first of all, those climate control things, did work, sort of. Every time i changed something at the physical buttons of the AC, it would also show up on the bottom of the screen. but i could not touch those on-screen buttons to change the AC. I didn't like that. For me there was no need for that and it just took up real estate of the screen.
This HU isn't rooted and i'm still on the fence of ever doing so. But @surfer63 has a nice way of messing with this HU's system apps, and modify them. He also warns of the apk name to have a different number when you mod it and if you don't, that it would no longer work. I deliberately didn't do this and just installed a copy of itself, upon itself, effectively disabling it. I don't regret that and it freed up the screen real estate but it did mean i lost the bottom home and back buttons. they are still in the status bar, but i wanted something at the bottom of the screen. So, to me this is the perfect solution. I don't have useless clutter at the bottom of the screen, and now i have a physical home button, filling up the blank button on the unit. Win win! (for me)
I purchased a Joying single-DIN 6.2" head unit from aliexpress and am having two issues. When I first turned it on the display was completely scrambled. I let it boot & sit for a while, but eventually ended up hitting the reset button. I did that three total times, each time the display became (oddly) less scrambled. After the third, it booted up completely normally and I got to work finishing the install.
Once finished, I found the power antenna trigger was not working. No 12v from the stereo. I checked the fuse, then checked for power directly at the stereo connector. Nothing. I temporarily switched the amp-cont with the ant-cont wires, and the antenna worked but the amp did not. So, I'm 100% confident the issue is the stereo - not my wiring or anything else. The car happens to use ISO connectors, so there wasn't much wiring to do.
I dug around in the "developer" menu of Car Settings and found an entry I believe says "Antenna always on" or something like that. I tried enabling it, but the setting wouldn't "stick." Leaving the menu and coming back, the option would be off again. I unplugged the stereo entirely from the car, I hit the reset button a couple more times - got nowhere. I think I made a mistake when I eventually used the Android "reset to defaults" option. The display scrambled itself again. Here's the weird thing: While resetting, the car's antenna moved - I didn't see it, but I heard the motor run in each direction, up and down, in quick succession. Guess it may have moved an inch. After a few resets & key cycles the display came back up, but I was missing a few things - the "live" wallpaper and Torque, for example. I found the apks in the file system and reinstalled without incident. However, *still* no antenna, the antenna developer option still doesn't stick, and the display periodically scrambles itself. Much fun. Do like.
I contacted Joying, who politely offered to send a new display cable but informed me it was National Day in China and would be off for a week. So, maybe National Week? They asked if that was okay, and I let them know it is - I'm not pressed for time, it's no problem.
In the interim, thought I'd ask the brain trust here for opinions. It seems totally logical antenna control is just a software setting, so perhaps there's a fix. The display is more troubling, but perhaps a new cable will indeed fix it. Anybody have any opinions? Is it feasible to download a full Android 6 ROM (?) package and install it, see if a full rewrite fixes things? Something else?
Thought I should be polite and post the answer...
My display issue was a small internal cable connecting the mainboard to the display daughterboard. It was physically damaged, probably upon assembly.
The antenna issue was a VR on the mainboard was not outputting any voltage. Joying pointed it out to me and I verified with a multimeter. Probably a defective part.
I returned the defective head unit (was $$$ - price of buying from China, I suppose) and they promptly sent a replacement. The replacement did everything correctly, has been installed for a week now.
There are definitely some built-in quirks with these things which probably don't need to be reiterated here. Hopefully with some software tweaks I can manage most of them. This is all expected - the hardware works, and in my head that's all I was paying for anyway.
Now, to go find a better music player, launcher, and hopefully a simple way to actually shut the head unit down rather than sleeping it... this car tends to sit for a week or two at a time and the small (~.010a) draw puts the battery at risk over such long intervals.
Just out of curiosity, how much was shipping to return it back to them?
Did they offer to cover any of that?
Guys! Is there a way to control the antenna only when the "Radio" is switched on ? in my case the power antenna is extracted and retracted when I start or switch off the car. Not when using the "Radio". In my previous Kenwood unit (Non Android) power antenna was operated only when the Radio was used. Yes I know the Android radio is a software compared to the Kenwood unit. But there should be a way to operate the antenna on demand doesn't it ?
Gayan said:
Guys! Is there a way to control the antenna only when the "Radio" is switched on ? in my case the power antenna is extracted and retracted when I start or switch off the car. Not when using the "Radio". In my previous Kenwood unit (Non Android) power antenna was operated only when the Radio was used. Yes I know the Android radio is a software compared to the Kenwood unit. But there should be a way to operate the antenna on demand doesn't it ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, that is not possible. In these kind of android units the radio is always (!) switched on. The radio app determines whether you hear it or not.
surfer63 said:
No, that is not possible. In these kind of android units the radio is always (!) switched on. The radio app determines whether you hear it or not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know this is an older post, but I am troubleshooting this same issue now. I believe this is (or at least should be) possible. Here are my findings from 3x different Joying models that I have tested.
UL135N2: Android 5.1? (This is the best/desired functionality)
* Power antenna extends when power on to the HU only if the radio app/tuner is active. (Turn vehicle on)
* Power antenna will extend when power on from pushing the volume knob (vehicle running with radio app active). Antenna also extends when opening radio app. Antenna stays extended when using home button instead of back button to switch to another non-audio player app. Radio app keeps running and antenna stays extended when switching to nav app.
* Power antenna will retract when power off from pushing the volume knob (vehicle running with radio app active). Antenna also retracts when closing radio app via back button or switching to another audio app (ie..BT radio, aux, etc.) after using home button while radio app is running.
* Power antenna retracts almost immediately when power off to the HU (Turn vehicle off)
UO135P4V: Android 8.0 (This is OK because the volume knob power at least controls the antenna)
* Power antenna extends when power is applied to the HU whether radio app is active or inactive (Turn vehicle on)
* Power antenna will extend when power on from pushing the volume knob (with radio app active or inactive)
* Power antenna will retract when power off from pushing the volume knob (with radio app active or inactive)
* Power antenna retracts almost immediately when power off to the HU (Turn vehicle off)
UO135N4G: Android 8.1 (This is worst functionality of all units so far)
* Power antenna extends when power is applied to the HU
* Power antenna will NOT retract when power off from pushing the volume knob (vehicle running with radio app active or inactive)
* Power antenna retracts after several minutes when power off to the HU (Turn vehicle off)
2000 Toyota 4Runner Stereo Wiring
Constant 12V+ Blue/Yellow (or Blue/Black)
Switched 12V+ Gray
Ground Brown
Illumination Purple (Violet)
Dimmer N/A
Antenna Trigger Black/White
Amp Trigger N/A
Joying HU Pinout - (Note that N/A means that there is nothing available for this connection in the vehicle wiring)
Constant 12V+ (BATT) Yellow
Switched 12V+ (ACC) Red
Ground (GND) Black
Illumination (ILLUM) Orange+White
Antenna (ANT.CONT) Blue
Dimmer N/A
N/A (BACK) Orange
N/A (BRAKE) Blue+White
N/A (AMP.CONT) Orange+Black
N/A (KEY1) Brown
N/A (KEY2) Pink
N/A (CAM.IN) Yellow RCA
I am currently using a Toyota harness supplied by Joying. I plan to swap the amp.cont & ant.cont wires per some other posts to see if that might work. I found that the Metra 70-1761 harness seems to jump the amp & ant wires in the harness.
On another note, there are a couple settings (Antenna always on & Amp ON/Off) in the HU that seem to have no affect on functionality. I have reported this to Joying, but they "do not support this feature".
Hi all,
I believe that I am seeing the same issue in my Joying JY-UO138P4 radio as the antenna control lead never goes to 12v. Being that my car does not have a retractable antenna and only requires the power lead for the aftermarket adapter (amplifier); would there be any adverse effects to connecting the antenna control wire to the head units amp control wire and have it on whenever the head unit is on?
thanks,
dave
fdm225 said:
Hi all,
I believe that I am seeing the same issue in my Joying JY-UO138P4 radio as the antenna control lead never goes to 12v. Being that my car does not have a retractable antenna and only requires the power lead for the aftermarket adapter (amplifier); would there be any adverse effects to connecting the antenna control wire to the head units amp control wire and have it on whenever the head unit is on?
thanks,
dave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't believe that you'd need 12v on the ANT-CONT wire if you don't have a power antenna. Just connect the AMP-CONT to your amplifier and you should be good to go.
thesameguy said:
I purchased a Joying single-DIN 6.2" head unit from aliexpress and am having two issues. When I first turned it on the display was completely scrambled. I let it boot & sit for a while, but eventually ended up hitting the reset button. I did that three total times, each time the display became (oddly) less scrambled. After the third, it booted up completely normally and I got to work finishing the install.
Once finished, I found the power antenna trigger was not working. No 12v from the stereo. I checked the fuse, then checked for power directly at the stereo connector. Nothing. I temporarily switched the amp-cont with the ant-cont wires, and the antenna worked but the amp did not. So, I'm 100% confident the issue is the stereo - not my wiring or anything else. The car happens to use ISO connectors, so there wasn't much wiring to do.
I dug around in the "developer" menu of Car Settings and found an entry I believe says "Antenna always on" or something like that. I tried enabling it, but the setting wouldn't "stick." Leaving the menu and coming back, the option would be off again. I unplugged the stereo entirely from the car, I hit the reset button a couple more times - got nowhere. I think I made a mistake when I eventually used the Android "reset to defaults" option. The display scrambled itself again. Here's the weird thing: While resetting, the car's antenna moved - I didn't see it, but I heard the motor run in each direction, up and down, in quick succession. Guess it may have moved an inch. After a few resets & key cycles the display came back up, but I was missing a few things - the "live" wallpaper and Torque, for example. I found the apks in the file system and reinstalled without incident. However, *still* no antenna, the antenna developer option still doesn't stick, and the display periodically scrambles itself. Much fun. Do like.
I contacted Joying, who politely offered to send a new display cable but informed me it was National Day in China and would be off for a week. So, maybe National Week? They asked if that was okay, and I let them know it is - I'm not pressed for time, it's no problem.
In the interim, thought I'd ask the brain trust here for opinions. It seems totally logical antenna control is just a software setting, so perhaps there's a fix. The display is more troubling, but perhaps a new cable will indeed fix it. Anybody have any opinions? Is it feasible to download a full Android 6 ROM (?) package and install it, see if a full rewrite fixes things? Something else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to bring this back
i dug into my car setting developer mode, where do you find the "antenna always on" option from?
I am afraid I have no recollection, but I might be able to poke around this weekend & let you know.
(As a side note, in case I didn't post it at the time - the problem with the antenna turned out to be the mainboard... I traced the circuit and found no output from the stereo under any conditions. It was eventually replaced.)
[SOLVED] TL: DR: Diagram show pink wire is for backup camera when the correct wire is brown as indicated by the tag on the wire itself.
I've had my SWM 8802 for about 8 months. I've always used a separate dashcam/backup cam combo, but also purchased a separate backup cam with an RCA output jack, and now I want to use it with my SWM 8802.
My head unit has a dedicated app from the home screen named AV In. Without anything connected (or connected but not powered, it just remains at the boot screen. Now my backup camera is tested and working. It has a power jack and an RCA jack. I tested this by hooking up a 12v 1A power adapter to it and an RCA cable from it to a TV, and it works. So with my vehicle I have the same power adapter connected to an extension cord. and it lights up.
The rear of my head unit has AV1, and AV2 (which I found out are video outputs), but it also has CAMIN and CVBSIN. Whne I have the camera going to CAMIN, and the AV In app activated, nothing shows up except the AV IN boot screen. However when I have the same RCA cable from the camera to the CVBSIN my head unit displays a red warning triangle with, "Viewing while driving strictly prohibited. Parking Break must be engaged to view." I don't know what the CVBS IN does, but if that's the only video port that works I'd like to find a way to disable that parking break sensor. Otherwise, why is the CAMIN not working the way it should? I can't have a backup camera if I have to have the parking brake enabled.
Attached is a photo of the wiring diagram that was advertised with the head unit. What steps should I take? The original RCA video cable has a red wire at both ends. What should those get attached to?
CAMIN is the input for the backup camera (CVBS camera - RCA plug).
CVBSIN is the input for the AUX AV IN camera (CVBS camera - RCA plug).
The backup camera will only display when triggered by the reverse gear signal... The pink wire in your image (PARKING SENSOR CONTROL) needs 12VDC when the vehicle is in reverse gear. This is usually connected to one of the reverse lamps at the rear of the vehicle (as is the power connector for the camera) so that the camera is powered up and the head unit switches tyo the camera input at the same time. The red wire in the video cable makes this easy... Attach the red wire to the pink wire at the head unit and connect the red wire to the power wire at the camera.
On almost all android head units, the backup (reverse) camera input is not available to the android operating system, so no android app can display the rear camera. The backup camera output is connected directly to the screen via the MCU so that the image is available even before the android operating system has booted.
The CVBSIN is the auxiliary in. Most unit require the brake wire (brown wire in your image) to be connected to ground before the image is displayed, for safety reasons. You can usually bypass it by connecting the brown wire directly to ground, or by selecting the bypass option that is available in the advanced car settings of most android head units.
That is excellent information! I wish that was included with the manual for all Android head units. I will try your suggestions and follow up. Thank you for this!
At first I tried the red wire to the stereo and no luck, only to come back and re-read the message and see that it should be a pink wire. I tried that = same.
Prior to this and after my first post. I had taken a terminal block and ran ring terminals to it. I hooked up my existing backup camera to it and it works fine, so I know those terminals are good. I ran new ones from the power connector + and - to the same terminals = still no video and no power to the camera. I made sure the car was on and the gear was in reverse. Perhaps I have to solder these ones on. Seems like the wires are a very small gauge for some reason. My alternative was to use an extension cord and plug that into the power of the camera, then test the video the Android head unit.
I just went ahead and bought a fuse tap, going to try that for the backup camera. I bought two, so if needed I can use another one to supply power to the camera itself.
I got it! It turns out that while the diagram showed the pink wire for the backup camera, the wire was labeled (or colored) wrong. I was out at my car this morning going to attempt it again when I traced the brown wire from the harness and it read "BACK". After some fiddling, I routed everything correctly including the powered RCA cable to a positive for the backup light, and the positive on the other end to the brown wire terminal. I started it up, hit the AV app, put it in reverse, and it displayed! So, it appears that when it down, use pink or brown to determine which one works.
I have a similar issue. My vehicle harness plugs straight in but its missing the cables for the brake. Is there a way of finding this easily? The cam works when plugged into the additional AV socket but so far can get it to work off the reverse.
Thanks.
I have an android headunit which has key, key 2 and a pink wire coming from the canbus. I’m trying to get my hvac air controls to show up on the screen. I got the key 1 to make my steering wheel controls work. But nothing else. I have seen ppl have door information working like when you open the door and close it and the climate controls. Please help me my car is the Acura TSX 2010 tech
Not MTCD, requested mod moves to (Android head-units) forum
marchnz said:
Not MTCD, requested mod moves to (Android head-units) forum
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry first time poster I thought it was in the right place
There are two same sockets in the wiring harness (in photos No. 1 and No. 2). Socket 1 with a shorter cable is connected to the harness with the radio at the bottom, and socket 2 is connected to the plug from the upper display, plug 3 is connected to the upper display.
From now on, the info from the panel (air supply, air conditioning, etc.) is shown on the radio screen for a few seconds after pressing the button, and this info is not on the upper display.
Link to the topic on the Polish forum
Here
sakekl said:
There are two same sockets in the wiring harness (in photos No. 1 and No. 2). Socket 1 with a shorter cable is connected to the harness with the radio at the bottom, and socket 2 is connected to the plug from the upper display, plug 3 is connected to the upper display.
From now on, the info from the panel (air supply, air conditioning, etc.) is shown on the radio screen for a few seconds after pressing the button, and this info is not on the upper display.View attachment 5350649
Link to the topic on the Polish forum
Here
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are these the exact wires you are referring to? The one in your picture? Also this is that Honda Accord euro 2008. I have two wires that dont fit anywhere
sakekl said:
There are two same sockets in the wiring harness (in photos No. 1 and No. 2). Socket 1 with a shorter cable is connected to the harness with the radio at the bottom, and socket 2 is connected to the plug from the upper display, plug 3 is connected to the upper display.
sakekl said:
From now on, the info from the panel (air supply, air conditioning, etc.) is shown on the radio screen for a few seconds after pressing the button, and this info is not on the upper display.View attachment 5350649
Link to the topic on the Polish forum
Here
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the link doesn’t go directly to it and it’s mostly in polish won’t translate by itself
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello friends,
Today I received the multimedia system that I ordered from AliExpress and of course the frame did not arrive compatible with the car (as I was promised),
But I improvised and managed to overcome it,
The problem is that I connect all the cables properly and turn on the car but the unit just doesnt turn on,
Maybe I'm missing something and I don't know? I even tried replacing the fuse, but nothing.
In the video you can see everything, although in the video I only connect the power cable, but before that I tried with everything...
the system should turn on even when nothing is connected except the power cable, right?
I would appreciate your help because I am at a loss and the seller is not really helpful..
seat ibiza 2016
yanivos89 said:
Hello friends,
Today I received the multimedia system that I ordered from AliExpress and of course the frame did not arrive compatible with the car (as I was promised),
But I improvised and managed to overcome it,
The problem is that I connect all the cables properly and turn on the car but the unit just doesnt turn on,
Maybe I'm missing something and I don't know? I even tried replacing the fuse, but nothing.
In the video you can see everything, although in the video I only connect the power cable, but before that I tried with everything...
the system should turn on even when nothing is connected except the power cable, right?
I would appreciate your help because I am at a loss and the seller is not really helpful..
seat ibiza 2016
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should read the installation guide.
There are 2 power lines necessary to get it booting, and a ground to the car body.
There is a red one (mostly) which has BAT power at all time, and most probably a yellow one marked with ACC. This line switches the radio on when you turn the ignition key to on, so this line needs 12V from the ignition.
rigattoni said:
You should read the installation guide.
There are 2 power lines necessary to get it booting, and a ground to the car body.
There is a red one (mostly) which has BAT power at all time, and most probably a yellow one marked with ACC. This line switches the radio on when you turn the ignition key to on, so this line needs 12V from the ignition.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this are the cables that i have
yanivos89 said:
this are the cables that i have
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use a voltmeter or test light and measure the lines Battery, ACC and Ground.
Battery should have constant power and ACC should be powered if the ignition is on.
What is about the missing connection here?
yanivos89
To add the may be missing information:
You don´t feed the unit with any power. There is a connector with yellow and red line from both connectors, but you need to connect the one from the Quadlock to the head unit cable tree with the same colors. In the second picture I think there is an open connector for that.
thanks, you mean these orange and red wires? i connected them but still nothing
yanivos89 said:
thanks, you mean these orange and red wires? i connected them but still nothing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that this connector does not fit your car
Connectors in green area are used for speakers. And metal connectors in plug (from vehicle) are present.
Connectors in red area are used to supply power [battery+, ground, ACC], buttons illumination etc. and metal connectors are NOT present.
Look at blue arrows for reference
What is cars brand, model and production year?
wotii098 said:
I think that this connector does not fit your car
View attachment 5799475
Connectors in green area are used for speakers. And metal connectors in plug (from vehicle) are present.
Connectors in red area are used to supply power [battery+, ground, ACC], buttons illumination etc. and metal connectors are NOT present.
Look at blue arrows for reference
What is cars brand, model and production year?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
seat ibiza 2016
wotii098 said:
I think that this connector does not fit your car
View attachment 5799475
Connectors in green area are used for speakers. And metal connectors in plug (from vehicle) are present.
Connectors in red area are used to supply power [battery+, ground, ACC], buttons illumination etc. and metal connectors are NOT present.
Look at blue arrows for reference
What is cars brand, model and production year?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have the same unit and cable tree?
I can´t see the counterpart of the Quadlock connector coming from the unit.
To get a proper answer, we should see both connectors from the front and the back.
rigattoni said:
Do you have the same unit and cable tree?
I can´t see the counterpart of the Quadlock connector coming from the unit.
To get a proper answer, we should see both connectors from the front and the back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, those connectors are taken from yanivos89 photos - left is harness from his SEAT, right is from his android head unit.
There is no way to connect 52pin quadlock to 40 pin quadlock, even if plug physically it can be connected, the pins inside simply dont match.
yanivos89 said:
seat ibiza 2016
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Best you can do is contact seller and ask for new harness. You need 52 quadlock connector, similiar to rest of modern VW group cars
Volkswagen (2015-2020) WG8 Sensor-Screen Bluetooth Head Unit pinout diagram @ pinoutguide.com
Additionaly you need to know that in your case everything is highly dependable on CANBUS decoder - harness from your car doesn't provide ACC signal to wake radio or signal for buttons illumination. It is solved via CAN signals.
Maybe CANBUS decoder also has to be replaced if wrong harness was sent.
Ahhh... didn´t see that.
You are right. In this case he has a wrong cable tree from Ali.
thanks very much to you both! i will check this,
what about the canbus? also need to replace or it fit?
yanivos89 said:
thanks very much to you both! i will check this,
what about the canbus? also need to replace or it fit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...but you told us, that you was aware that the unit does not fit your car, right?
Wasn´t that good your decision to buy a not matching unit, right? Makes it complicated to reconfigure that stuff.
In this case: I think you will have to pay for a harness and may be also for a new CAN box. Try to buy one from the seller, or:
You also can buy a harness for VW/Skoda/Seat and crimp it to the current harness.
In this case you need to follow the connection graph on the unit and compare this with a picture of the OEM connector. Should be found on Google. May be the CAN connector works, may be not. There are a lot of CAN boxes available for your car in combination with Chinese aftermarket radios.
Good luck!
I think your car is MQB platform and the radio is for PQ platform. 52pin qadlock to 40pin. Maybe a reduction will help you
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mN4W48q
the harness of the 52 pins did solve my problem, thanks everyone for the help!