A friend dropped his Oneplus 8 Pro in the sea last week. He managed to retrieve it more or less immediately. Since the phone is IP68 rated, he paid it no special mind, and kept using it. A few days ago the screen started acting up, and a minute later the phone completely died. Yesterday he asked me if I could have a look at it.
Opened the phone, and immediately found clear signs of water ingress:
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The ribbon cable connector under the minuscule PCB to the left was corroded, and there are salt crystals around the round hole in the frame. I believe it's the screen that can be seen through the hole. Would guess the capillary forces has drawn in water between the supposed screen and the frame.
Could see no way of removing the screen without risking to break it, it seems to be heavily integrated in the frame. Gambled on drying the phone overnight at ~45 deg C in case there's still any water left in it, disconnecting the stuff close to the water ingress signs, and powering it up. There was a small vibration when connecting the USB cable. Tried the button combo to boot the phone in fastboot mode (power + vol up + vol down). "Qualcomm HS-USB QDLoader 9008 (COM5)" popped up in the device manager.
Did some googling, read up on it, found out that the phone must be in EDL mode. Downloaded and played around some with QPST/QFIL. Could not find a firehose loader for SDM865, so tried loaders for 855 and 845. No luck, as expected QFIL will just throw me an error. Had to try though.
At this point I've more or less given up getting the phone back to working order. Just want to dump the onboard storage and rescue photos etc, before telling my friend to file an insurance claim.
The "motherboard" with CPU, storage, etc is at least visually still in pristine condition, and it seems to be easy enough to remove or disconnect completely from the rest of the phone and possibly damaged parts, leaving only the USB C daughterboard connected.
Basically I'm looking for ideas of options/what to try next, given the above. Perhaps someone even got a firehose for SDM865 available?
Thanks in advance
Investigated this further while waiting for replies here, and now it seems I might have found a solution on my own. Might be useful for future reference.
GitHub - bkerler/edl: Inofficial Qualcomm Firehose / Sahara / Streaming / Diag Tools :)
Inofficial Qualcomm Firehose / Sahara / Streaming / Diag Tools :) - GitHub - bkerler/edl: Inofficial Qualcomm Firehose / Sahara / Streaming / Diag Tools :)
github.com
Installed it in Debian according to the installation instructions on the Github page.
Had disconnected the two ribbon cables connecting the mobo to the PCB in the bottom of the phone when playing around earlier, to keep the water damaged parts of the phone unpowered. DId of course leave the third (leftmost) ribbon cable for the USB C connector alone. Saw no reason to disconnect cameras etc in the upper part of the phone, that shows no signs of water damage. Would guess you only need the bare mobo and the USB connector to do this though.
Edit: Might also be worth adding that the battery was disconnected, the phone was only powered from an USB 2.0 port during this operation.
Anyhow, made sure there was > 256 GB of free storage on my /home partition (yes I know, very unscientific) and ran the command:
Code:
python3 edl.py rl dumps --memory=ufs --genxml
...and immediately connected the phone to the computer via USB, while holding down vol up and vol down buttons, to boot it in EDL mode.
The program autodetected the SoC and sent the correct loader. The dump started and is still going on as I write. 256 GB or whatever size the internal memory is going to take a while to dump with USB2.0 speeds
Guess that leaves me plenty of time to research what I need to do to extract pictures etc from the dumps. Assuming they're encrypted etc. Unless of course someone here happen to sit on the answer?
So, the saga continues... Did some research on the file encryption in modern Android phones yesterday night, and came to the conclusion that there are two feasible ways for me to rescue the user data from this phone:
1) Try pulling the screen from the frame without destroying it, to be able to access the connections etc I assume has been affected by the water ingress, and clean them up, hopefully getting the screen back to life long enough for me to transfer the user data off the phone.
2) Temporary install the motherboard from the dead OP8Pro in an otherwise working one, and transfer the data off the phone. Perhaps it's possible to find a bricked phone for this at a reasonable price.
Seen some blogposts etc about exploiting weaknesses in EDL and cracking the crypto while researching this, but those seems to apply to older SoCs, and I really don't have the necessary skill set to explore that attack vector anyways
The dumps themselves seems to be pretty useless, but learned a lot while figuring out how to do them. Always something
Related
Hey guys,
I have found a solution to solve the hardware problem with the LG E900 Optimus 7,
showing the message 'Memory card not working' Your memory card has changed, is damaged or is non-compatible.
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Flashing a new firmware or restoring images with zune does not solve the problem!
This message, if shown on a LG E900, implicates a hardware error with the NAND flash memory,
a Toshiba THGBM2G7D4FBAI9.
The memory chip is soldered to the top layer of the 2-layer mainboard, together with the led, sim card holding, head phone jack...
You can see it in the middle of this pic:
The hadware error is probably issued by broken solder joints, in turn probably issued by changes in temperature and/or physical exposure.
Following solution worked for me: (tried with one phone one month ago)
I heated the Toshiba memory chip with a heat tool with around 200 degrees Celsius (400 degrees Fahrenheit) for around ten minutes,
this is a technique sometimes used to repair broken graphic cards, please search google for this if you think there's something fishy going on here.
I used a 340 degree heat tool, with a 2cm distance first until I saw some solder balls, 'dripping' out, I increased the distance to 5cm.
After reasembling the phone works and does still work without problems.
Although this worked for me, it does not mean that it will work for you too.
Please try and comment, if it worked for you!!
Heating the memory chip should solve the problem not only temporary, if you get the same message some time afterwards, try again with more degrees (max 300) and/or a longer period (max 30min)
If you do not have the ability to heat the memory chip with a heat tool, you may trie to bake the whole mainboard layer. A problem could be a smelting head phone jack.
More information, pics at the www: manuga.bplaced.de
(i'm a new user and not allowed to post outside links)
If you find some language, logic or explanation mistakes in here, please tell me!
I hope that I find time to provide more information on the website mentioned above, I currently do not have much time to provide detailed phone dissasemble, assemble information, please search youtube for such vids.
Feel free to ask any questions in this thread or on my website.
Hope it works.
Going to try this out today, will let you know the results later...
yehuda92 said:
Going to try this out today, will let you know the results later...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dear Guys,
I tried it (with Dremel Versatip tool with appropiate distance) and now phone even doesn`t react for on/off button. Nothing happens after switch on the charger.
Before "my fix" after charger on it shows "memory card error".
I assembled it couple of times in order to check if everything is on its place.
So now phone is completelly dead (in final nothings happen .
Any ideas?
rgds,
G.
Same problem...
Also gave this a shot, managed to get the solder to 'drip' out but straight after the chip itself actually caught on fire... perhaps a little too much heat? =P
Now can't boot past the LG logo with the top board attached. Strangely it boots up perfectly if I disconnect the top board, however this is somewhat useless since the digitizer and SIM are both located on this board. Perhaps a lost cause...
lukeavitch94 said:
Also gave this a shot, managed to get the solder to 'drip' out but straight after the chip itself actually caught on fire... perhaps a little too much heat? =P
Now can't boot past the LG logo with the top board attached. Strangely it boots up perfectly if I disconnect the top board, however this is somewhat useless since the digitizer and SIM are both located on this board. Perhaps a lost cause...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had almost the same issue (I did not catch a fire on memory chip). After disconnecting top board phone boots, but because of unworking screen I can not proceed with anything.
After switching on the top board, phone does not want to start at all, not even giving me a LG logo on screen. No reaction on on/off button.
Have no more ideas what to do...?
rgds
G.
no boot only LG logo! Solved
I had a similar problem , my phone was frozen at LG start screen , i removed the memory board , i put it in the oven for 10 mins at 180 °C, put it back all together , and it worked!!!! i could save all my pics and video !!
THANKS a lot!!!
*pic in attachment
tanks so much, its worked for me, i have heat the memory chip with a heat tool for few minutes and ok.
I also attempted this repair. Removed the top part of the main board, insulated a few parts like the headphone jack with blu-tack, flooded board in flux, (even though none of it went under the chip...) Then I put the board in oven until infrared thermometer showed 240 degrees celcius on the chip and opened the oven door. After waiting for the board to cool down, cleaned with isopropyl alcohol, reassembled. Works, for the time being.. Thanks for info and ideas guys. :good:
I put it in the oven for 5 mins at 180 °C, it worked and I can recover all of my pictures. Thanks!
It worked! Thanks guys for help
Put it in at 180°C for 10 minutes.
All best.
I've had my 32GB Nexus 7 2012 (grouper) since it was released. I love it, or well, I did. Until about 12 months ago, the WiFi reception and speed plummeted into what may as well be hell in the stone ages. I couldn't find the problem. I thought it was something to do with software, as I had recently upgraded to a newer version of Android at the time. So, I dismissed it, and waited patiently for a fix. Nothing. So, it has been sitting there since KitKat was released, doing nothing.
Until now that is! I decided that I didn't want to look at it doing nothing anymore, so I researched far past page 2 of Google (Desperate times people, desperate times...) and I found this gem!
I strongly recommend you DO NOT perform that guide. It can damage your device even more. Instead, please use the guide below:
YOU WILL NEED:
Small knife or Electronics opening tool
Soldering Iron (Sorry)
Solder
Basic soldering skills
[URL="http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11400.m1842.l5919/7?euid=f15f56b658ee4efebf0c8f34c466567e&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fpayments.ebay.co.uk%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewPaymentStatus%26transId%3D472422032026%26itemId%3D390820734137%26qu%3D1%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AL%3AOC%3AGB%3A5919&exe=11193&ext=27012&sojTags=exe=exe,ext=ext]Contact Fingers (As many that are broken on your device)[/URL]
Right, lets get started...
(Oh yeah, and to make sure you can't sue me if you mess up, I am not liable for any damage you cause to you or the device you're performing this guide on. This may also void the warranty on the device you are performing this guide on)
BEFORE YOU BEGIN!!!
Turn off your device
Ensure that your device is unplugged from any power source
1) Open the Nexus 7 carefully.
2) Find the broken contact(s). The red circle in the picture below annotates where one of the WiFi contacts is broken.
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3) Put the replacement contact finger(s) in place
4) Solder the new contact(s) onto the motherboard ensuring that the solder is only touching that contact
It's important that the solder is only touching one piece of metal, as otherwise the circuit will be shorted and your device may be damaged.
If you have messed up the soldering, there are tools to remove the solder, or you can re-heat it and try to wipe/scrape it off. The tool you want heats up, and sucks up the solder off the circuit board.
5) Leave the device for at least five minutes
6) Once you have left the device, check to see if the angle of the new contact is the same as the other ones. If not, gently bend it into place.
7) Place the casing back onto the Nexus 7, and press to lock it into place
8) Boot up your device
And that's it, you're done!!!! If this guide helped you, press thanks, and if you're feeling generous, donate
JJE990
Broken Link
Hi,
The link you have provided is no longer valid, I just thought that I would see what I could find and this is one of them:
hypertext protocol:worldwidewebdotdigikeydotcom/en/product-highlightslashwslashwurth-electronicsslashwe-secf-emi-contact-fingers
I can not be sure which one to choose. I see one very similar to what my N7 has just not 100% certain that it would be correct one and or fit.
Regards,
T
how does this apply to NFC? my NFC is not working and i opened the case, saw one pin was bended (NFC section PIN), tried to put it back up and it broke. You think that by fixing the pin will it work again?
st-ivan said:
how does this apply to NFC? my NFC is not working and i opened the case, saw one pin was bended (NFC section PIN), tried to put it back up and it broke. You think that by fixing the pin will it work again?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why not? If that was the reason and you rectify it, it should work.
Hello.I have a new MEDIACOM IPRO W810 3G – CHUWI VX8 3G and after i changed some setting in bios (usb legacy or something) the tablet will not get into bios (pressing ESC at boot) because the keyboard is not recognized.The keyboard is recognized after the mediacom logo.If i press NUM or CAPS the light turns on.Here are some pics with the inside of the tablet
The tablet boots into a menu
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If i press f8 i get this.
This is because of a failed rollback from win10 to win8.
What i did was ground GND to Data Out (pin 2) briefly (see pic), at the right time during boot. FAILED Used the info from this post.
Ground pin 1 and 7.FAILED
Made a usb stick bootable with win8 (rufus -uefi) connected to OTG.FAILED
Made a micro sd rufus bootable win8.FAILED
Cut the battery power wire and left it off for 1 hour and solder the wire back FAILED.
What should i do next?I would like to buy a I2c programmer with clip but i don't know what product to choose because i've read that the voltage matters.
I've the W810 too, it's a good tablet for that price
Unfortunately there's no way up to now to recover the bios, the only way to erase the bios settings, if u've disabled USB in the bios, is to reflash a stock bios version.
This is possible, obviously, in 3 ways :
* running the bios update program within Windows environment ( if your tablet cannot run Windows, this possibility is down )
* running the bios update program within a bootable USB key ( if u've disabled USB within bios, this possibility is down )
* running the original bios recovery within the original Mediacom partition ( u've to make it as bootable from within Windows so if your tablet cannot run Windows, this possibility is down )
Ηi
I am sorry for the off topic, but i have a problem and i cant find solution.
I have chuwi vx8 3g with android and the baterry life is very poor and one more problem is the past few days is not charging up the 100%
This tablet ( MEDIACOM IPRO W810 3G )it's the same like my chuwi ? I ask if i cant find one battery and replace its own.
costelsimion said:
Hello.I have a new MEDIACOM IPRO W810 3G – CHUWI VX8 3G and after i changed some setting in bios (usb legacy or something) the tablet will not get into bios (pressing ESC at boot) because the keyboard is not recognized.The keyboard is recognized after the mediacom logo.If i press NUM or CAPS the light turns on.Here are some pics with the inside of the tablet
The tablet boots into a menu
If i press f8 i get this.
This is because of a failed rollback from win10 to win8.
What i did was ground GND to Data Out (pin 2) briefly (see pic), at the right time during boot. FAILED Used the info from this post.
Ground pin 1 and 7.FAILED
Made a usb stick bootable with win8 (rufus -uefi) connected to OTG.FAILED
Made a micro sd rufus bootable win8.FAILED
Cut the battery power wire and left it off for 1 hour and solder the wire back FAILED.
What should i do next?I would like to buy a I2c programmer with clip but i don't know what product to choose because i've read that the voltage matters.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
did you finally resolve this problem, i"m having the same problem and im thinking of a way to solder a new ssd already installed wiht widows 10, then use the boot options in windows to get back to bios or ill just update the bios within the new windows.
or? is there any other way out of this.....?
Edited...
Oh its works...!!!!!!
You just have to time the bridging of pin 2 and GND
As soon as the logo comes up, then Bridge the pins. then hit escape on the keyboard to enter setup then quickly by press F9 to restore BIOS to default.
Then you can re-install the os.
Thanks
Can confirm it worked for me too!
In my case the tablet is a WinPad 8.9 HD W910 (M-WPW910) mounting a Winbond 25Q64FWSIG 1432 chip. This was a bit tricky to find because the chip was covered by a tiny white sticker with the number "90015" on it and I had to remove it to make sure it was the right one.
After attempting to short the pins (2 and 4) for almost an hour, suddenly a black screen with just a couple of lines appeared (couldn't be so quick to read them), so I started pressing ESC and I got into the BIOS with the keyboard working.
After that I immediately saved the bios settings and restarted, entered into the BIOS again and the keyboard was still working.
During all the time I kept the power cable connected (I read somewhere else this was a requirement for the procedure to work) but for some reason after resetting the BIOS and rebooting a couple more times the battery icon flashed on the screen indicating the tabled was completely discharged (I don't think it's a problem, probably it was just a consequence of the system getting a bit shocked up )
I decided to go back to stock rom a few weeks ago after using Lineage, I obviously was an idiot because while the stock rom flashed perfectly as soon as there was an OTA update it went into the bootloop, couldn't flash it as the bootloader is locked.
Tried using ABD fastboot but it wouldn't unlock the bootloader, the mi unlock tool wouldn't do it either.
I now have an EDL cable but can't seem to get the phone into EDL mode to flash it. I connect the cable to the PC, press the button and plug into phone, the phone simply goes boots to the normal charging screen that presents when you plug it in whilst the phone is off. Nothing shows up in device manager etc.
Anyone help me unbrick it?
Jerri1240 said:
I decided to go back to stock rom a few weeks ago after using Lineage, I obviously was an idiot because while the stock rom flashed perfectly as soon as there was an OTA update it went into the bootloop, couldn't flash it as the bootloader is locked.
Tried using ABD fastboot but it wouldn't unlock the bootloader, the mi unlock tool wouldn't do it either.
I now have an EDL cable but can't seem to get the phone into EDL mode to flash it. I connect the cable to the PC, press the button and plug into phone, the phone simply goes boots to the normal charging screen that presents when you plug it in whilst the phone is off. Nothing shows up in device manager etc.
Anyone help me unbrick it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If EDL Cable is not working, try "test point" method. It will definitely work.
anshsharma240 said:
If EDL Cable is not working, try "test point" method. It will definitely work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, that was the next step, which did work, but I've damaged it taking it apart. So all a bit pointless in the end!
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Not really sure what I've damaged either since it doesnt seem to be a part of the screen or back plate. So not sure if it's worth getting it repaired.
I damaged my phone too yesterday while I was trying to open it so I could unbrick it but I don't care. Having a working phone (the way I want it) is more important than having one with stock Pie in immaculate condition.
Jerri1240 said:
Thanks, that was the next step, which did work, but I've damaged it taking it apart. So all a bit pointless in the end!
Not really sure what I've damaged either since it doesn't seem to be a part of the screen or back plate. So not sure if it's worth getting it repaired.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's called "middle frame housing/chassis" which holds all the components together like display, motherboard, sub board, battery etc. You have chipped off the plastic bezel/border of the housing that surrounds the display and protect it from breaking during fall.
It will not affect the functionality of the phone but will definitely make a big dent in your pocket if your phone falls from your hand / pocket.
I will suggest you to replace the middle frame as soon as possible and until then use it with extreme care or with a good quality case.
You can find it on Aliexpress or from your local spare parts dealer. It will cost you around 5-7USD.
P.S. : Don't try to do it yourself, get help from a technician(2-3USD) as they separate the lcd and frame using heat of lcd-glass separator machine.
anshsharma240 said:
It's called "middle frame housing/chassis" which holds all the components together like display, motherboard, sub board, battery etc. You have chipped off the plastic bezel/border of the housing that surrounds the display and protect it from breaking during fall.
It will not affect the functionality of the phone but will definitely make a big dent in your pocket if your phone falls from your hand / pocket.
I will suggest you to replace the middle frame as soon as possible and until then use it with extreme care or with a good quality case.
You can find it on Aliexpress or from your local spare parts dealer. It will cost you around 5-7USD.
P.S. : Don't try to do it yourself, get help from a technician(2-3USD) as they separate the lcd and frame using heat of lcd-glass separator machine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, it's okay the price they'd charge to replace it would be around £60 here, even if I supplied the part, I can buy a new one for £60ish on ebay so it's not worth it.
I ordered the Note 8, the plan was to pass thr Mi A1 on to someone but I'll just write it off.
Jerri1240 said:
Thanks, it's okay the price they'd charge to replace it would be around £60 here, even if I supplied the part, I can buy a new one for £60ish on ebay so it's not worth it.
I ordered the Note 8, the plan was to pass thr Mi A1 on to someone but I'll just write it off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
£ 60 is too much for this. Here in India I can get it done at just INR 100 which is equivalent to around £ 1.05
anshsharma240 said:
£ 60 is too much for this. Here in India I can get it done at just INR 100 which is equivalent to around £ 1.05
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately I'm in th UK.
Hello HTC users,
I know this is an old phone that may only be used by only a few people now, but I am still owning one and I recently tried to give it a cosmetic refresh.
It went from this (I know, "how the hell did this happen??!!"):
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To this (back cover is not glued yet):
What I have done:
Replace the screen (I initialy wanted to only replace the outer glass as the screen was still working... but I lack the equipement & skills to do this)
Replace the back cover
Replace the aluminum chassis
Replace the battery
Replace the fingerprint scanner
The "rebuild" went quite well as the only thing I was not able to disassemble from the old chassis are the pressure sensors: everything else I was able to disassemble and reassemble smoothly in the new chassis. The phone boots, the screen is ok even though it is an OEM one, speaker and microphone are working, physical and sensitive buttons too.
BUT (you saw me coming )
While I am pretty sure that I did not riped or damaged anything during the rebuild, the fingerprint scanner is not working anymore and the phone is now really really really (really) slow to charge... like 5 to - 6 hours to 100%
I've checked that every flat cable is correctly connected and they are. Then I tried:
To connect the old fingerprint scanner instead of the new one: it does not work anymore.
To connect the old battery instead of the new one: android still tells me that I am stuck with slow charge.
To clean the charging port (which was insanely full of stuff by the way ): still no fast charge.
To boot into recovery mode and clean the system cache: still the same.
I have the feeling that this is an Android related issue and not an hardware one but it is only a guess... and I don't know where to search now.
I hope someone will read this and have some advice
I just re-batt'd and new back on my HTC U11. Sorry I didn't replace the charge port PCB as well.
My $ is on that PCB, if you care to spend another $15 and dive in again.
Pretty sure the fingerprint thingy is tied to the same PCB.
Also, be sure you have FC 3.1 cable. I got my parts from Sunsky in China. I think about 2 weeks door to door.
But it will now be my b.u. as I bought a Pixel 5 to be the daily driver.
Thanks for your feedback! I don't mind diving in again, that's why I still haven't glued the back cover
How could I be sure that's the root cause?
No way I'm aware of, unfortunately.
metropical said:
No way I'm aware of, unfortunately.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So! I have finally been able to replace the daughter card and you were right, it solved almost all my issues: fast charge is back, microphone works.
Thanks for the tip!
The only thing that still does not work is the new fingerprint scanner. I tried to clear the system cache, clear the fingerprint scanner app cache, reboot the phone etc, nothing worked. In fact I cannot access the "fingerprint scanner" settings, it launches nothing when I press it.
I tried to connect the old fingerprint back and with this one I can access the menu... but it does nothing when I try to declare my fingerprints
I'm starting to wonder if this is not software related.
1st thought is to boot into safe mode and see if that clears the problem.
2nd thought is to back-up and factory reset and reinstall AOS 9.
I've tried to boot into safe mode with no luck... I'll try to factory reset this week-end!
So, did a factory reset this week-end and unfortunately the fingerprint scanner/home button is still not working
The only difference is that now the fingerprint scanner menu in the Android settings has now disappeared... which makes me think that the issue is software related. But the phone is old and I can't find similar problems: it's a shame!