Database Users

[Q]Help,I set something wrong in win8 tablet Bios now it's doesnt work.

A Win8 tablet(atom z3735f cpu,like aptio v bios).I set something may wrong in BIOS.Now it does not work ,turn on with blank screen(only power light work),and usb also no usb keyboard NumLock the light dont change),only voltage output.And now how to res work(press et BIOS?(It's doesn't like a motherboard can remove the battery).Thanks.

You probably mean UEFI , because it's a tablet with 64-bit CPU.
Try to boot your tablet into a Windows PE, for example this one. Press F8 when tablet boots to reach the Boot Options Menu.
If successfully bootet into Windows PE, then from there in Command Prompt enter
Shutdown /r /o
which will automatically restart your tablet to advance boot menu
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

liyafe1997 said:
A Win8 tablet(atom z3735f cpu,like aptio v bios).I set something may wrong in BIOS.Now it does not work ,turn on with blank screen(only power light work),and usb also no usb keyboard NumLock the light dont change),only voltage output.And now how to res work(press et BIOS?(It's doesn't like a motherboard can remove the battery).Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did a similar thing on my Pipo W3, and fixed it. See my post for details.

_gl said:
I did a similar thing on my Pipo W3, and fixed it. See my post for details.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much and I learn a new way to reset cmos.
And...remove the battery can not reset(the settings may store in EEPROM? It's is diferent to motherboard BIOS?)
I dont want to take it apart because it may loss guarantee. I sent it to factory and free change a new one and give me the express fee .(I bought it in tmall ,the services is great)

liyafe1997 said:
Thank you very much and I learn a new way to reset cmos.
And...remove the battery can not reset(the settings may store in EEPROM? It's is diferent to motherboard BIOS?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it's different than PC motherboards, modern tablets seem to use a flash chip and store the settings right there, so removing the battery does not wipe out the settings. That's why the manufacturers absolutely should provide some way to reset them, eg. holding hardware buttons during boot. Not doing so is crazy, because if you change something so the tab won't even boot, and/or (like in my case) won't boot Windows and USB is completely dead, there's absolutely nothing you can do except open it up.
I dont want to take it apart because it may loss guarantee. I sent it to factory and free change a new one and give me the express fee .(I bought it in tmall ,the services is great)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, that is good service . You have to pay return shipping though right?

_gl said:
Yes it's different than PC motherboards, modern tablets seem to use a flash chip and store the settings right there, so removing the battery does not wipe out the settings. That's why the manufacturers absolutely should provide some way to reset them, eg. holding hardware buttons during boot. Not doing so is crazy, because if you change something so the tab won't even boot, and/or (like in my case) won't boot Windows and USB is completely dead, there's absolutely nothing you can do except open it up.
I dont want to take it apart because it may loss guarantee. I sent it to factory and free change a new one and give me the express fee .(I bought it in tmall ,the services is great)
Cool, that is good service . You have to pay return shipping though right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
seller pay it
And..are you Chinese?

liyafe1997 said:
seller pay it
And..are you Chinese?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No I'm in the UK. I don't think he'd pay it for me .

_gl said:
i did a similar thing on my pipo w3, and fixed it. See my post for details.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i am having exactly same problem on voyo a1 mini. Bios is winbond 25064wsig . I cant identify the pin. And is it possible to do the same on my tablet.

adeetya4 said:
i am having exactly same problem on voyo a1 mini. Bios is winbond 25064wsig . I cant identify the pin. And is it possible to do the same on my tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you sure about the part number? Can't find any datasheet online. If it has the same pin count, there's a good chance the pins are compatible (but a datasheet would be good to confirm, you don't want to fry anything).

adeetya4 said:
i am having exactly same problem on voyo a1 mini. Bios is winbond 25064wsig . I cant identify the pin. And is it possible to do the same on my tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a voyo a1 mini and the uefi firmware chip in mine is a winbond 25Q64FW which operates with a voltage of between 1,8-1,95V. I want to experiment with firmwares from other devices and unfortunately ordered a CH341A programmer which supports only 3,3V-5V. It didn't detect the winbond using the in circuit soic8 adapter (although I only tried it with battery disconnected, with battery connected the device might be recognized). Perhaps the CH341A can work with a logic level adapter, but I won't try that. I have a EZP_XPro on order from AliExpress, it only costs 29$ and it supports 1,8V devices including the 25Q64FW.

Px6 upgrade MCU and DEAD!! Help me

Hello friends.
A little over 1 year ago I put a 10.25 ”Chinese screen on my bmw e84 with android 8.1
Everything was working fine, but a couple of days ago it was stuck and I had to turn off the car to restart it and yesterday it did it again.
This morning I got in touch with the aliexpress vendor to comment on everything and he told me to update the MCU and he sent me a file, mcuupdate.bin ...
So I put it in a Pen and it updated perfect, it reached 100% and when it turned off .. it has not turned on again ....
I tell the seller, he sends me another file: px6_format.zip saying that with that it restarts and everything remains the same.
Does nothing. The only thing that adds two folders to the usb, android and logs .. (signal that is still alive)
The seller doesn't answer me anymore ...
Does anyone have any idea how to fix it?
Pd: I pay whoever comes up with the solution.
Thank you!!
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

Fumero89 said:
Hello friends.
A little over 1 year ago I put a 10.25 ”Chinese screen on my bmw e84 with android 8.1
Everything was working fine, but a couple of days ago it was stuck and I had to turn off the car to restart it and yesterday it did it again.
This morning I got in touch with the aliexpress vendor to comment on everything and he told me to update the MCU and he sent me a file, mcuupdate.bin ...
So I put it in a Pen and it updated perfect, it reached 100% and when it turned off .. it has not turned on again ....
I tell the seller, he sends me another file: px6_format.zip saying that with that it restarts and everything remains the same.
Does nothing. The only thing that adds two folders to the usb, android and logs .. (signal that is still alive)
The seller doesn't answer me anymore ...
Does anyone have any idea how to fix it?
Pd: I pay whoever comes up with the solution.
Thank you!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Fumero89,
I cannot guarantee success but I have an idea you might be able to try to fix your head unit.
I assume you have the head unit(HU) with an SD card slot and a little hole on side of the unit.
Steps:
get an SD card, format it to Fat32 then copy your renamed "update.zip" OS file which you want to install
get a pin which you can press into the hole next to the SD slot (e.g. a push-pin you got to your phone)
with the ignition off, put the SD card in the HU slot
gently push the push-pin to the hole (you might feel a mechanical click - it should be a button in there)
while pushing the pin thus the button turn on ignition (HU gets powered up)
release pin button after some seconds (try any from 1 sec to 10 sec)
If you see any image on the screen after the steps above PM me again and we can continue.
Good luck! :fingers-crossed:

OperatorB said:
Hi Fumero89,
I cannot guarantee success but I have an idea you might be able to try to fix your head unit.
I assume you have the head unit(HU) with an SD card slot and a little hole on side of the unit.
Steps:
get an SD card, format it to Fat32 then copy your renamed "update.zip" OS file which you want to install
get a pin which you can press into the hole next to the SD slot (e.g. a push-pin you got to your phone)
with the ignition off, put the SD card in the HU slot
gently push the push-pin to the hole (you might feel a mechanical click - it should be a button in there)
while pushing the pin thus the button turn on ignition (HU gets powered up)
release pin button after some seconds (try any from 1 sec to 10 sec)
If you see any image on the screen after the steps above PM me again and we can continue.
Good luck! :fingers-crossed:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your answer friend, I have tried that but it is still dead. Thank you!!

OperatorB said:
Hi Fumero89,
I cannot guarantee success but I have an idea you might be able to try to fix your head unit.
I assume you have the head unit(HU) with an SD card slot and a little hole on side of the unit.
Steps:
get an SD card, format it to Fat32 then copy your renamed "update.zip" OS file which you want to install
get a pin which you can press into the hole next to the SD slot (e.g. a push-pin you got to your phone)
with the ignition off, put the SD card in the HU slot
gently push the push-pin to the hole (you might feel a mechanical click - it should be a button in there)
while pushing the pin thus the button turn on ignition (HU gets powered up)
release pin button after some seconds (try any from 1 sec to 10 sec)
If you see any image on the screen after the steps above PM me again and we can continue.
Good luck! :fingers-crossed:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi friend,
Thank you very much for the interest you show in helping me.
In the slot of my screen there is only an empty hole, there is no microSD reader nor is there a reset button ...

MI 9T Screen not working after replacing

Hello,
Yesterday i tried to replace my screen with frame. However when i press the power button nothing seems to happen. When i connect it to my computer it signals i device is connected. Cant give permission though since my display stays black.
When i put everything back to my old screen i had the same problem. However it give some corrupt display the last time i tried. Like you power on an old analog tv without a channel is broadcasted.
Can anybody tell me in which direction i have to search? It doesnt sound likely my flex cable is finished now....does it?
Is there anyway to tranfer data without visual display? If it is ll broken all of a sudden i would like to transfer the data...

{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

Screen is faulty, common thing - for me 1/5 lcd are broken. Sellers don't check them before sending
Try this in fastboot:
adb backup -apk -obb -shared -all -system

well..this is the screen which was on the phone..working before replacing.
How would i be able to do something with fastboot....no visual on the phone

Just boot phon3 in fastboot, connect to pc with adb installed, try if your phoneis listed in adb and then make a backup, you don't need screen for this.
See if connector are damaged.
Did you installed lcd with phone turned on and battery installed?

yaro666 said:
Just boot phon3 in fastboot, connect to pc with adb installed, try if your phone is listed in adb and then make a backup, you don't need screen for this.
See if connector are damaged.
Did you installed lcd with phone turned on and battery installed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No..thats not possible. Although i didn't know if the phone was powered on afterwards ofcourse.
nevertheless: I brought the phone to a repair shop. Unfortunately he couldnt fix it due to parts whichwere hard to order.He told me the motherboard had some damage from the tools used to disassemble the phone.
Strangely enough in the evening that day I heard my Alarm on the phone.
After trying to get the phone recognised at my pc for some time (and some tooling/apps later) All of a sudden my screen came alive, the driver was visible in windows and I could choose to tranfer data.
Since that point there is no issue anmore with my Phone. Using it a few days now without any problems.
Before some higher power resurrected my phone I already ordered a new one though....

Edited, sorry

yaro666 said:
Just boot phon3 in fastboot, connect to pc with adb installed, try if your phoneis listed in adb and then make a backup, you don't need screen for this.
See if connector are damaged.
Did you installed lcd with phone turned on and battery installed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, i have a similar issue. In my case, if i install the screen with the phone turned on, the screen works fine, but if i turn off the phone or i do a reboot, the screen stop working and appears the same issue as this man.
I have read that you ask him if he has installed the lcd with his phone turned on, so, it makes any difference? What can i do?

Is this original screen or cheap Chinese? I would return and try different one first. Haven't really seen issue like that and I have experience with every manufacturer. If something doesn't work, it's faulty LCD

Water damaged Oneplus 8 pro, any way to dump onboard storage?

A friend dropped his Oneplus 8 Pro in the sea last week. He managed to retrieve it more or less immediately. Since the phone is IP68 rated, he paid it no special mind, and kept using it. A few days ago the screen started acting up, and a minute later the phone completely died. Yesterday he asked me if I could have a look at it.
Opened the phone, and immediately found clear signs of water ingress:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
The ribbon cable connector under the minuscule PCB to the left was corroded, and there are salt crystals around the round hole in the frame. I believe it's the screen that can be seen through the hole. Would guess the capillary forces has drawn in water between the supposed screen and the frame.
Could see no way of removing the screen without risking to break it, it seems to be heavily integrated in the frame. Gambled on drying the phone overnight at ~45 deg C in case there's still any water left in it, disconnecting the stuff close to the water ingress signs, and powering it up. There was a small vibration when connecting the USB cable. Tried the button combo to boot the phone in fastboot mode (power + vol up + vol down). "Qualcomm HS-USB QDLoader 9008 (COM5)" popped up in the device manager.
Did some googling, read up on it, found out that the phone must be in EDL mode. Downloaded and played around some with QPST/QFIL. Could not find a firehose loader for SDM865, so tried loaders for 855 and 845. No luck, as expected QFIL will just throw me an error. Had to try though.
At this point I've more or less given up getting the phone back to working order. Just want to dump the onboard storage and rescue photos etc, before telling my friend to file an insurance claim.
The "motherboard" with CPU, storage, etc is at least visually still in pristine condition, and it seems to be easy enough to remove or disconnect completely from the rest of the phone and possibly damaged parts, leaving only the USB C daughterboard connected.
Basically I'm looking for ideas of options/what to try next, given the above. Perhaps someone even got a firehose for SDM865 available?
Thanks in advance

Investigated this further while waiting for replies here, and now it seems I might have found a solution on my own. Might be useful for future reference.
GitHub - bkerler/edl: Inofficial Qualcomm Firehose / Sahara / Streaming / Diag Tools :)
Inofficial Qualcomm Firehose / Sahara / Streaming / Diag Tools :) - GitHub - bkerler/edl: Inofficial Qualcomm Firehose / Sahara / Streaming / Diag Tools :)
github.com
Installed it in Debian according to the installation instructions on the Github page.
Had disconnected the two ribbon cables connecting the mobo to the PCB in the bottom of the phone when playing around earlier, to keep the water damaged parts of the phone unpowered. DId of course leave the third (leftmost) ribbon cable for the USB C connector alone. Saw no reason to disconnect cameras etc in the upper part of the phone, that shows no signs of water damage. Would guess you only need the bare mobo and the USB connector to do this though.
Edit: Might also be worth adding that the battery was disconnected, the phone was only powered from an USB 2.0 port during this operation.
Anyhow, made sure there was > 256 GB of free storage on my /home partition (yes I know, very unscientific) and ran the command:
Code:
python3 edl.py rl dumps --memory=ufs --genxml
...and immediately connected the phone to the computer via USB, while holding down vol up and vol down buttons, to boot it in EDL mode.
The program autodetected the SoC and sent the correct loader. The dump started and is still going on as I write. 256 GB or whatever size the internal memory is going to take a while to dump with USB2.0 speeds
Guess that leaves me plenty of time to research what I need to do to extract pictures etc from the dumps. Assuming they're encrypted etc. Unless of course someone here happen to sit on the answer?

So, the saga continues... Did some research on the file encryption in modern Android phones yesterday night, and came to the conclusion that there are two feasible ways for me to rescue the user data from this phone:
1) Try pulling the screen from the frame without destroying it, to be able to access the connections etc I assume has been affected by the water ingress, and clean them up, hopefully getting the screen back to life long enough for me to transfer the user data off the phone.
2) Temporary install the motherboard from the dead OP8Pro in an otherwise working one, and transfer the data off the phone. Perhaps it's possible to find a bricked phone for this at a reasonable price.
Seen some blogposts etc about exploiting weaknesses in EDL and cracking the crypto while researching this, but those seems to apply to older SoCs, and I really don't have the necessary skill set to explore that attack vector anyways
The dumps themselves seems to be pretty useless, but learned a lot while figuring out how to do them. Always something

Trying to get flashing and blinking on a Topway TS7

Hi Guys
I had a 2007 Mini Cooper Chilli with a non-functional radio, and went through the tons-of-fun disassembly and removal of the unit to put in this TS7 Android head unit with a view to running wired Carplay. The good news is that the onboard Amp is still functional, and I have a partly disassembled dash, a bucket of trim screws, and surprisingly good sound, with WiFi, GPS functional and playing MP3s from a USB stick in an unpowered hub.
My approach is to get everything working in Android mode first (using the house WiFi to access the internet), make sure I have a backup, then try to implement Carplay using TLink5, so idiot's guides to the best practise would be much appreciated.
The bad news is that there are a few weirdnesses - the unit currently starts up with the seat indicator lit, an alarm ringing which either times out or can be reset with the emergency flasher (go figure), but thereafter none of the arc of indicators (things like fullbeam) work, despite the speed and fuel arcs being lit and functional. So I suspect the CANBus mapping.
USB may be a little flaky (and was with only a USB stick prior to the hub) as it seems to want the stick pulled and restored after startup to register it. Running two cameras in a Mini is probably overkill. The front camera (on the 6-pin USB port) seems to have gotten over a snit whereby it refused to admit the SD card existed, then disappeared itself; video for the rear is working whilst I mount it - not sure if only one USB port can be used at once, in which case Spotify is fine rather than a stick - hopefully the front cam continues to record to its SD card. There were some internal plugins between the display unit and the head unit (unless I fell victim to 'the cable fits, so plug it in syndrome'. I tapped the reverse line to present to the camera (may need a relay) and glued and powered the dinky fan (we're tropical here).
So, back to the indicator lights. I updated the MCU (the main software was up-to-date), and I have the access codes, but when I look for the appropriate car, I can't find it (and have no clue what the 00 General; 03 Simple Soft; 13 Binary; 02 Raise etc mean or do). Mini Cooper should reside under BMW - any clues here? Getting hardware indicators running is probably a more tricky operation then mapping steering controls (the left-hand cluster and phone controls are fully functional, although the other set is not).
Many thanks in advance
Neil
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

Just a quick add: looks as though the audible alarms were door and seatbelt, but when things change (lights on for example, I get a pic of two seats back-to-back, rear seats and a lock, and an AC setting bar. Also the photo shows the unit style - I have the 2G/64G TS7.