My first post here as I am hoping someone can help me out. I have an XY Auto '11-'15 Chevy Cruze Tesla Style Android. The model on the info screen claims it is a YT9213AJ but on the chip board it says YT9260 Ver. 1.2. My issue is volume and sound in general. From 1 to 19 the sound is flat; you go to 20 and it's as if the Loud feature kicks in. The Equalizer does not change sounds at all. What is weird is on the songs programmed to radio sound great at any volume level.
I'm good at installation, and I can work my way around a device but programming is something I'm not very good at. I'd root it and add a better interface but that's way above my knowledge. Any help would be much appreciated. I attached pics of info screen and chip board in my albums. Thank You!
Bought one for my cruze, and im facing a problem with the screen, but also looks like software problem. Smetimes start to move the screen alone. I tryed to update the firmware, but facing the same problem. Does anyone have any idea what could possible be?
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Hello, I recently installed the above Android unit into my 2014 Mitsubishi EVO with Rockford system. It came with the can bus decoder MT-SS-03 for 2014 Outlander. I set everything up in the factory settings menu but I'm having a major audio problem that sadly is ruining an otherwise awesome experience.
If I listen to any music at high volume all system audio cuts out completely for 5-10 seconds at a time. I've found this problem is directly related to the volume. The louder it is, the quicker the audio will cut out. I've double and triple checked all wiring and pins, updated to the latest MCU 2.59, Android system (8-3-2017), etc.
I'm out of ideas on what to try next but hoping someone here can shine some light on the situation. Thanks in advance and looking forward to putting an end to this issue!
do you have proper canbus?
Yes I do, according to them. I did get a red one though which was labeled for 2014 Outlander which I understand to be the newer can box for 2014-2015 EVO but the pictures I've seen show a black box and mine was red but labeled as the newer one. I thought the older 2008-2013 units were red. Not sure if that makes a difference or not but I do have sound from all speakers so it works it just cuts out at high volume. However, the amplifier settings on the Android unit do respond a bit strange. The sub slider seems to change all speaker output and not the sub directly and has a pretty minimal effect. The fader seems right at least as far as the channels go.
In the meantime I did contact the seller on Amazon about the issue. They told me the issue is caused by the high power protection of the factory amplifier. To fix the issue they want me to re-install the factory radio, turn the volume sliders down to the "middle part" and then install the Android unit again. This seems a bit strange to me but it could be the factory radio interfaces with the amp in a different way and is able to control the gain of the sub and the Android unit cannot. With the newer Android unit I noticed the max volume is much louder so maybe I'm hitting some sort of over current protection causing the amp to momentarily shut down. Has anyone ever heard of this?
What I'm not sure about is when this procedure would be needed. Is it because I had the amp slider on factory unit is set too high before I removed it or is it because I disconnected the battery and the amp defaults to a higher setting that only the factory unit can adjust? It would be a real shame if every time power is cut from the amp I need to repeat the process. I fear that may be the case because I'm not sure the amp has an internal EPROM or non-volatile memory that's saving the settings and I did in fact disconnect the battery.
Either way I'll be happy to finally get to the bottom of the issue and I'm sure I'll find out whether or not I'll need to swap the radios again. Until then I'll keep the factory unit closeby. Luckily it's very easy to swap out so fingers crossed this fixes the problem. It's going to be a few days till I pull the radio out since I'm also waiting for a replacement USB harness since one of mine is inop due to a damaged wire.
Please let me know if anyone has any input about this. Thanks again.
Ditto - did you try swapping back and lowering the volume, if so, did it resolve the issue?
I have only had mine for 3 days, Dasiata HA2106-S720 with Dasaita CB003 Canbus harness in a 2013 Mitsubishi ASX with Rockford Fosgate. I would agree that the volume seems higher, so there could be some truth in the Sellers theory.
By the way my experience with Subwoofer control also matches yours - adjusting the lowest frequencies on the Graphic Equalizer seems to affect the main speakers more than the subwoofer, and I am not getting the same 'punchy' bass as the OEM Head Unit.
TSimone said:
Hello, I recently installed the above Android unit into my 2014 Mitsubishi EVO with Rockford system. It came with the can bus decoder MT-SS-03 for 2014 Outlander. I set everything up in the factory settings menu but I'm having a major audio problem that sadly is ruining an otherwise awesome experience.
If I listen to any music at high volume all system audio cuts out completely for 5-10 seconds at a time. I've found this problem is directly related to the volume. The louder it is, the quicker the audio will cut out. I've double and triple checked all wiring and pins, updated to the latest MCU 2.59, Android system (8-3-2017), etc.
I'm out of ideas on what to try next but hoping someone here can shine some light on the situation. Thanks in advance and looking forward to putting an end to this issue!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You made also the Car Settings to work well ? Things like keyless operations, windshiel wipers operation, lights time out, auto fold mirror, etc ? Thanks.
Hi,
So I am looking to buy a android headunit for my VW preferably in this style...
https://www.eonon.com/upload/product/Gallery/GA8153/GA8153-01.jpg
My current one I have got is a Joying 8inch which is similar to the one in the picture however the subwoofer had a seperate level control which was annoying because whenever you turn your speaker volume down, the sub woofer was still playing really loudly, you would then have to turn the subwoofer adjustment down as well so I had enough of it and gave it to my brother. I am now searching for another one however my BIG need is that I want the subwoofer and speakers to be controlled together using the volume knob.. I dont want to be driving and adjusting the volume knob as well as adjusting the subwoofer level on top of it. Its a silly design and all the new head units seem to have this!?
Any ways here is what I would like with the headunit:
WIFI
Bluetooth
Navigation
USB port
Browsing youtube
CD/DVD drive
Split screen/ Multitasking
Dashcam setup with DVR built into the head unit...
Here is the one I have seen https://www.eonon.com/Android-Car-G...a-Core-GPS-Navigation-System-Touchscreen.html
Have already pre ordered it but the stock wont be in till 8th january so I can still look around and find something else which might be better... Any recommendations guys? I love the fact this has a 8 core CPU but then it comes with the annoying subwoofer level adjustment which makes no sense to have. Would like a head unit without this sub woofer level adjustment feature.
Thank You.
Got my Dasaita installed this weekend. The device is gorgeous and really makes my Jeep's dash come to life! I am having an issue that i can seem to fix. When I go to the amplifier app (EQ/Fader) it does nothing, nada, zilch! When i use the Poweramp EQ it comes to life and the sound is amazing. But when I use the regular radio or play music app it sounds flat.
Any idea what this could be? thanks in advance for any assistance I have researched all over and cant find an answer
I emailed Dasaita about the problem,. I will post the solution here for anyone else having a similar issue with this unit
Dasaita was of no help. I did however get some assistance from my Wrangler forum, go figure no one here even said hi, lmao
The solution was to set the canbus setting to 78 JEEP_Cherokee&Renegade&FiatAegea(Simple) and viola, now I have EQ once again. Thanks to everyone that read this thread and left no comment. To those that are having the same issue, you're welcome
Thanks ricanbandit,
I just installed this Week-End my Dasaita and i find the sound is fad too, compare to the OEM HeadUnit...
I'll try to change the canbus setting et Poweramp too.
Regards.
I ordered a PX6 4 /64 GB (MTCE_CHS) head unit with 720 p display and Android 9 for my Mercedes-Benz W211. I found a seller at AliExpress with great reviews so I felt safe to order from them.
This will be a short review which I hope can help someone who is looking for info before buying a Android Head unit, but I am also very thankful if someone has ideas how I can solve my problems.
Pros:
- Very sharp display with good viewing angles.
- Reverse cam works great in good lightning conditions.
- Fast startup from standby.
- Useful equalizer which makes it possible to get a great sound experience.
- Custom ROM, root, Tasker and FCC Launcher make it possible to customize the head unit in many ways.
- Very good GPS performance when connected to original powered GPS-antenna in car.
- Apple CarPlay works and looks generally very good, but has problems with sound mixing which makes it useless.
Cons:
- Handsfree sound quality sucks so much it's useless. Sound from the other persons is bad and they can't barely hear me. Tried with external microphone also.
- No auto brightness and max brightness is low in sunny conditions.
- General audio quality, there is constant background noise and interference from wifi, bluetooth and USB devices makes it worse.
- The head unit was supposed to be plug and play but I had to modify my car and use an dremel multi tool to cut the plastic in the car, which makes it difficult to go back to original head unit. This is normal according to seller but no info before buying.
- Android apps does not display well in a car head unit. Even when adjusting dpi it is difficult to find a good setting. Text and objects will be too small or too big, sometimes frustrating and dangerous to control music and navigation apps when driving.
- Android Auto is displayed in low resolution and looks bad, it also has problems with sound mixing which makes it useless.
- FM radio reception is bad, even though I use the original powered antenna in the car.
- General sound mixing problems in different apps.
- I had dust debris inside the display, which is visible with both display off and on.
Problems:
- I have an intermittent problem with a "popping" sound and at the same time the display goes to night mode for a second and reset the clock to 0:00. Tried to disable auto night mode in factory settings but no difference.
- Sometimes when opening a door or turning on the ignition there is a loud high pitch sound from the speakers, very uncomfortable, almost hurts the ears and scares the passengers.
- Sound mixing, when using Android Auto och Apple CarPlay, it will automatically lower music volume when giving navigation directions, but will not increase volume afterwards. So when you manually increase music volume again, next time the voice will be so high it almost destroy your speakers and ears. The navigation voice in Waze Android app gets cut 0,5 - 1,0 seconds to early.
When speaking to the seller they have problems understanding my issues, and just tell me to wait for MCU update (I already have the latest). Seems like they just want to delay so the time when it is possible to open a dispute will end.
What would you recommend me to do? Demand an exchange of my head unit and canbus decoder and hope it will solve the problems? Demand a refund and buy a Sony or Kenwood Android Auto / Apple CarPlay head unit?
Just accept the problems and issues and try to forget that I paid A LOT of money for the head unit and all the accessories?
There are dozens of different manufacturers and hardware types using PX6.
Post MCU type so people can know the manufacturer and type of unit being reviewed.
marchnz said:
There are dozens of different manufacturers and hardware types using PX6.
Post MCU type so people can know the manufacturer and type of unit being reviewed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, it is a MTCE_CHS, I added the info to the first post.
I think that this highlights a general problem with the chinese android head units: They just aren't "consumer-ready". Don't get me wrong, they provide fantastic bang for your buck, but they all have their problems (many of which can be solved through help from this forum) and they all lack any decent support. Having said that, I also have a PX6 4G/64G unit in my car, and I just don't have any of the problems you mention. It's not without its annoyances, and I have had to work through several problems to get it sorted, but after just a few months I am very happy with what I have ended up with. The sound quality is fantastic to my untrained ears, and it all works fairly smoothly. I got a massive upgrade in functionality in my 21 year old car for not much money.
In your case, there seem to be too many problems that appear to be related to the hardware. I don't think that an MCU update is going to fix the issues that you list, and so If it were me, I would be returned the unit asap, and trying a different manufacturer, either another chinese manufacturer or one of the proven japanese manufacturers.
Checking here if someone has had the same issue.
Car: 2012 Honda Accord with premium sound system (subwoofer in side wall of the boot).
Unit: Prelingcar android 10, 4GB/64GB MCU verison Ts9.4.3-100-20....
Basically everything works except no sound from subwoofer, and balance front/rear. When balance is in the middle there is sound from the rear speakers, but if I drag it aft, everything goes silent.
Haven't found any setting that gets the subwoofer going.
Bought the unit second hand here and according to the previous owner he figured out that there is a subwoofer amplifier that is supposed to communicate through CAN, but he didn't have the time to do any research. I bought it knowing this of course, and it's not the end of the world if I don't get the sub running but it would be kind of nice.
I have tried to find a pin-diagram of the pinouts of the original stereo to try to trace where the SUB audio output is but haven't found any, so that is also one thing that could be helpful if someone out there has any wiring diagram. I'm thinking if there could be a pin missing in any of the wire harnesses or something like that. (hoping for an easy fix, yes I know.. )
I'm a complete noob in this area so maybe I have missed something obvious.