Database Users

Seicane 10.1 Android 8 2003 Accord problems

Hey guys, I recently purchased and installed the seicane 10.1 android headunit in my 2003 Accord. It has the integrated climate control buttons. In all of the reviews and videos I have seen, when making adjustments to the climate control, those adjustments (fan speed, temperature, air direction) should appear on the headunit screen. Since I first installed it, this function has not worked. I have made sure to plug in the small white cable which connects the tablet with the climate control circuit board. When I emailed seicane they told me to check that the Canbus setting was set to "116 Accord_7 (DaoJun)". I checked and it is set correctly.
They also told me to check the "vendor setting" and said that it is located in "settings- system information." I have checked through every setting and menu and can not find anything that says "system information" or "vendor".
They also sent me a new circuit board for the climate control in case it was bad hardware, so i swapped it in and am still having the same issue.
Also, on their website they say that the upper climate control screen (also displays the clock) should work, and it does not.
Basically, I'm looking for some guidance as to my next steps. Has anyone had these issues? Can anyone tell me where I would find the "vendor" setting in order to verify that the setting is correct? I am having a hard time even dealing with seicane because their english is not great.
I have pictures on my google drive but can not post external links until 10 posts. If you can help, please pm me and I can send the link through there. Thanks in advance guys/girls.
Model- HF SERIES H221(1024x600)
Android Version- 8.1.0
Kernel version- 4.4.138+(gcc version 6.3.1 20170404 (Linaro GCC 6.3-2017.05))
Build number- PX30 8.1.0 OPM6. 171019.030.E1 eng.hct.20181219.213729
MCU Version- MTCE_HF_V3.01_1
CPU- Quadcore Coretex-A35 @1.5G

I have the same issue in an Accord 7 with a Funrover octacore Android 8.1

Pacovich said:
I have the same issue in an Accord 7 with a Funrover octacore Android 8.1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do they refuse to give you your money back too? They tell me that it's too troublesome to return and then offered me $150 refund. Its absolutely ridiculous.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Incorrect canbus speed
eman2289 said:
Do they refuse to give you your money back too? They tell me that it's too troublesome to return and then offered me $150 refund. Its absolutely ridiculous.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The sound system of my car is a premium one and the radio device must send some commands to the amplifier but it doesn't. Because of that, the gain is too high and little electric noises are perceptible. I have tried canbus options for Hyundai with suffix AMP and the sound volume becomes extremely high. That is not a solution but shows the correct canbus speed is not 38400 bps as set originally. I have read the correct speed for comfort canbus of my vehicle is 95 kbps, perhaps 100 or 125. In all case, is the same speed as Hyundais AMP type have. I think Nissan AMP types give similar results, and another third mark. I don't remind exactly other marks because the key idea is that the canbus comfort speed is not correct and it is also necessary verify all canbus codes and add ones for the premium amplifier. And, thus, the hardware seems to be ok. It is not useful to change it. It is an issue related to software.
I have asked to Funrover for a solution and I have sent them several informations as I have explained here. But they have replied only one time to evade. I think that people wanting to purchase a similar device must wait. I think this issue is related to Android 8.0 and 8.1. In all case, Funrover must give me a solution even if they must contact original software developers who probably work for many integrators. If Funrover doesn't give a solution, I consider that another clients must be select a different mark.

Did you ever manage to fix this issue?
I've just installed the same unit and have the exact same issue.

brettf said:
Did you ever manage to fix this issue?
I've just installed the same unit and have the exact same issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, still fighting with seicane about returning it. You're in for quite the headache...
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Oh no!
There's one piece of info I've found on that I've yet to try.
Check out this video:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=pPvaCGCaypo
The person had the same problem as us. In the description he explains how he fixed it.
Basically just try swapping the white and white black wire that go to the main harness from the climate controls.
Edit: Haven't tried it yet. Might be worth a shot
EDIT 2: I did it. I swapped the wires now and it works.

To anyone that has the same issue on the Seicane unit for the Accord 7 - model H221(L) etc.
I found the solution - in my original post below I pointed to the video of another person with the same issue.
In the video description they mentioned how they fixed it: By swapping the white and white/black stripe wires on the 4 pin connector that connects to the climate control board.
This image is linked to in the video, saying that it's how the wires should look after being swapped.
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However, on my unit, they were already configured this way - and the climate control display was not working.
I tried swapping the white and white/black stripe wires in any case (Which results in their layout being the opposite of this picture), and this solved the issue.
So, it looks like there is a solution. And it's NOT software related.
brettf said:
Oh no!
There's one piece of info I've found on that I've yet to try.
Check out this video:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=pPvaCGCaypo
The person had the same problem as us. In the description he explains how he fixed it.
Basically just try swapping the white and white black wire that go to the main harness from the climate controls.
Edit: Haven't tried it yet. Might be worth a shot
EDIT 2: I did it. I swapped the wires now and it works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

eman2289 said:
seicane
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
brettf said:
To anyone that has the same issue on the Seicane unit for the Accord 7 - model H221(L) etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does yours Seicane head unit have similar problem with window defrosting like in the video?
https://streamable.com/qz9wr
The relay switch ON/OFF all the time, you can hear a "clik" sound.

maxbfg said:
Does yours Seicane head unit have similar problem with window defrosting like in the video?
https://streamable.com/qz9wr
The relay switch ON/OFF all the time, you can hear a "clik" sound.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No issues with mine. Worked as it should. I ended up returning the unit due to multiple other problems
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I had this same problem too -- i'm one of the people in the comments of that YouTube video, who was troubleshooting with the OP.
I'm surprised that Seicane is still sending out cables with the TX/RX wires reversed... Still haven't figured out how to change Celsius to Fahrenheit though.

I've also mounted a Seicane H221 on an Accord 7 (2005) and I'm facing some issues.
MCU version: MTCE_HF_V2.96_1
Build number: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 eng.hct.20181102.112849 test-keys
Regarding climate control, the car is equipped with dual zone. When first mounting the head unit, I was using the provided Y-cable which is in case for single zone AC. Re-mounting without the Y-cable solved the issue.
I have still some issues:
1/ Important: Climate control OSD work, buttons works but temperature is definitly not managed correctly: erratic temperature, too cold, too warm, fullspeed fan while temperature difference between requested and actual is 1deg C, etc...
2/ Less important: head LCD display is now blank (no temperature, hour, ...)
3/ Behind steering wheel LCD display do not display temperature
I suppose these 3 issues are somewhat linked to CANbus management. First, I'm wondering if I should consider upgrading the MCU firmware (MTCE) ? Android ? CANbus protocol ?
I've read Hal9k bring some improvements on these units. Has anyone tried upgrading Seicane H221 with this ROM ?
Thank you in advance for your answers !

Anyone know how to get into recovery mode?
Any ideas about how to get into developer's options, I'm using Android 9 and pressing build # 7 times doesn't work.

hmm, i have bought the same android unit from seicane, this one came with android 9 , and somehow i cannot get the airco display to show up.
I did already try the connector cable swap ( white <--> whiteblack ) , but it doesn't seem to do anything.
I am also wondering, the unit doesn't show any lights on the buttons, so i am unable to operate the a/c in the dark.
is that by design, or should there be lights in the buttons?
Does any of you guys have any suggestions?

I have similar issues to some of you guys on a Seicane unit in my Australian Honda Accord Euro 2007 - I believe this is the same car as the US Acura TSX.
1) The air con controls keep popping up on the display every couple of minutes even though I'm not touching any of the physical buttons/knobs.
2) The outside temperature reading has disappeared from the instrument cluster behind the steering wheel
This is the unit I have:
I'd love to know if anyone has any potential fixes!

brettf said:
To anyone that has the same issue on the Seicane unit for the Accord 7 - model H221(L) etc.
I found the solution - in my original post below I pointed to the video of another person with the same issue.
In the video description they mentioned how they fixed it: By swapping the white and white/black stripe wires on the 4 pin connector that connects to the climate control board.
This image is linked to in the video, saying that it's how the wires should look after being swapped.
However, on my unit, they were already configured this way - and the climate control display was not working.
I tried swapping the white and white/black stripe wires in any case (Which results in their layout being the opposite of this picture), and this solved the issue.
So, it looks like there is a solution. And it's NOT software related.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you this worked for me everything pops up but in centigrade unfortunately. I also lost the outside temperature on the gage cluster. I also noticed the fan speed was pretty slow and the duel buttons and heater buttons do not work. My unit had a very noisy display and now it changes colors and goes crazy Im wondering if it is another wiring problem. I also have a way that you guys can put android auto on it. you can get the headunit reloaded apk and once you do that Android Auto works perfectly.

since the wire swap was not working for mine, seicane is sending me a nuw board + new cables...
I'll update if this is a solution, however, i doubt it.
ps: the customer support isn't that bad, the only problem i face is, the don't understand english
you have to be very specific and don't use complicated words.

dandandan75 said:
Thank you this worked for me everything pops up but in centigrade unfortunately. I also lost the outside temperature on the gage cluster. I also noticed the fan speed was pretty slow and the duel buttons and heater buttons do not work. My unit had a very noisy display and now it changes colors and goes crazy Im wondering if it is another wiring problem. I also have a way that you guys can put android auto on it. you can get the headunit reloaded apk and once you do that Android Auto works perfectly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can choose F in factory settings iirc

Hello! I have the same Celsius to Fahrenheit settings issue with my Seicane. Were you able to figure that out? Want all displays/settings to be in Fahrenheit. Thanks in advance for your help.

pjottrr said:
since the wire swap was not working for mine, seicane is sending me a new board + new cables...
I'll update if this is a solution, however, i doubt it.
ps: the customer support isn't that bad, the only problem i face is, the don't understand english
you have to be very specific and don't use complicated words.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So i got the new board and installed everything ...
and guess what, as expected it wasn't working, still no airco diplay.
so i went to my car dealer and he explained to me that i have a kind of freak car.
in the states it would be sold as an honda acura tl , but it was built in the UK . i have one of the first cars that came from the production line, and i think they changed some things along the way.
apparently the radio is the only thing different from the acura. it is the same as the normal accord 2003.
so he told me to look for a can-bus setting for the acura.
I couldn't find any, but in a last resort i found a canbus setting 120 "accord 7 'long chinese name' 2 "
as the board i have is version 2 i thought, let's give it a shot.
and upon reboot the first thing i saw was, in the upper right corner, i suddenly had the outside temperature displayed
i knew it was good and indeed it was. i now have a fully functional headunit.
i have no clue if this board swap was needed, maybe not , but it doesn't really matter, it works, and I'm happy.

Looking for help with new iDoing PX6, Android 10, rk3399 hexacore

I've struck out when looking for fixes or help with this Android unit.
I have a few issues with it that I'm hoping people have solutions for.
Capacitive buttons don't illuminate anywhere except in the "Element" settings where you can choose what color they are. No matter if I set display mode to dark or light, the touch buttons don't ever illuminate. Not a huge deal, but I would like them to be lit up red to match my other lighting (2011 Subaru STI).
Auto shutdown after ACC power loss. There is a setting for this and it's on "auto" by default. Setting it to any setting doesn't have any affect. I would like it to be 5 or 6 seconds, but 30 seconds is the lowest. No matter what, the unit shuts down after about 2 seconds, which is manageable but not optimal for me since I have keyless push-button start and can't go from car running to accessory power without the car shutting off first. And the push-button start takes about 1 full second to register presses, so I have to get the timing just right if I want the HU to avoid shutdown.
Auto brightness does nothing. During the night, it's still at full brightness and using the white/light theme, not the black/dark theme. I figure I can use an app like Lux to control the actual brightness and just leave the theme set to dark. The HU does not have an orange illumination wire like all other stereos I've installed, so I figured it had a light sensor on it but it doesn't seem to. Not 100% sure yet.
I don't think there is a solution to this, but more like I'm curious if other Chinese Android units all do this: white-noise humming that you can hear when there is no music playing. Sure, I can't hear it when my car is running, but there is an audible hum in all speakers and subwoofer. I've minimized it by turning down the gain on my amplifier and subwoofer, but it's annoying and reminds me of cheap crappy stereos that don't filter out noise like this one, but this one is $360 and not cheap in my opinion. I'm curious if the Joying units do this when using the pre-outs specifically. This iDoing unit does not have an amp built in, despite it saying on the page that it has 4x50W output. Just looking at the output label, you can see there are zero speaker output wires.
Is there a way to do manual updates on this unit? When I search for MCU and System updates, it doesn't find any. I guess maybe it's up to date and there is no fix for the 3 problems I mentioned above.
I don't see any custom ROMs for this unit, just for the Android 9 PX6 units. I am going to check out some custom launchers since the iDoing launcher is super basic and uninspiring. Then again, I am mostly just inside of Apple Carplay the whole time, so the launcher doesn't matter much.
Thanks for any help!
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Really wished I would have seen this unit before I ordered and installed mine:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32950726060.html
It's got 8 cores, A75 and A55s, and has LTE modem built in, which I really wanted since I have an free phone line that I don't really use through T-Mobile. That unit also comes with adapters to use the OEM aux and USB ports in the center arm rest / storage, and I think a 20-pin harness to plug directly into the Subaru.
It probably has the same issues I'm talking about in my original post though, so I shouldn't fret....I guess. BUYERS REMORSE IS REAL, UGH!

So I just ordered the uis 7862, Even Idoing say the Px6 version is more "mature", but I opted for the faster proc and 4g and hoping the bugs get nailed soon. Keep in mind the 4g per IDoing will only work with t-mobile and i question even that(but am hopeful).
I went with IDoing for two main reasons. Primary reason being they are the only ones who support the HK audio in m 2018 WRX, and second they are extremely responsive to question(at least during sales). It took me 3 days to get a "No" from Joying, whereas I have spent nearly 2 hours on chat with Idoing. They also upgraded my shipping to DHL at no cost and am expecting my unit on friday(one week from order).
There is very little on the IDoings here apparently. Look forward to hearing how you are making out, with luck i'll have mine installed this weekend.
On your issues... Have you reached out to IDoing? They seem genuinely interested in helping.
Hoping your buzzing issue either is uncommon or irrelevant when using the canbus adapter to the HK.
I'm a verizon sub, but if it works with tmobile I may get a cricket wireless plan just for the car.
Any issues loading apps on the unit. I really just need fubo, spotify, a flac player, youtube, and waze, but loading other apps would be cool.

Idoing are a reseller of units. What hardware did you buy? Guess you might not know until it arrives, but the picture above lists an MTCE unit (mtcd)...wondering why this thread isn't in the MTCD section.
All of these chinese android grey boxes have bugs, they all copy each other and all make the same mistakes, some horrendously worse than others, but they're all buggy.
If you have started from low expectations, the unit might work out.

marchnz said:
Idoing are a reseller of units. What hardware did you buy? Guess you might not know until it arrives, but the picture above lists an MTCE unit (mtcd)...wondering why this thread isn't in the MTCD section.
All of these chinese android grey boxes have bugs, they all copy each other and all make the same mistakes, some horrendously worse than others, but they're all buggy.
If you have started from low expectations, the unit might work out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not the OP, but I ordered a UIS7862 unit specifically for the WRX.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32869243167.html
with the canbus for my HK system.
Based on reviews from other WRX owners and my discussions wit IDoing, my expectations are moderate. I know i'm taking a risk but the looks and fit of this for my car(again from reviews) is far superior to my kenwood double din and kit from crutchfield. Add to that I really hate AA and Mirrorlink.
After dealing with Wireless AA and mirrorlink issues with both my last and current car, it would need to be pretty buggy for it to not surpass that experience.
I'm pretty experienced with android development, so i can dig in and perhaps work around some of the issues, depending on what they are. Obviously if the Canbus is a failure then it's a non-starter.
I just want a hand full of apps to run and to be able to wifi tether to my phone, or use a tmobile sim if by some miracle the 4g modem works. If AA works that's a plus, but my whole reason to buying this is to avoid AA and of course the OEM look of this.
Again for the cost (less than the kit to wire my existing kenwood) like most people here, I'm willing to take the risk and if it doesn't work out then I go back to the kenwood and either return this or rip it apart as a science experiment.

with regards to the illumination of the keys, did you wire the Illum(orange wire)? also on mine at least you need to have the head lights on for the Illumination to work.

Did you ever fix the buzzing sound?

aznriceballman said:
Did you ever fix the buzzing sound?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, the subwoofer output was unusably bad and the hum at all times is only audible if I'm in the car with the engine not running and the stereo turns on with no music. And this is with my amp turned up pretty high. If I play radio at 50% volume, it will hurt my ears, so most people won't have this issue unless they also use an amp and turn it up fairly high.

I was using a USB-connected Carlink adapter for more reliable wireless Carplay, and it has slightly better resolution than the ZLink version. However, this Carlink adapter loses connection when I hit 24psi of boost in my car. It makes no sense. The adapter doesn't physically come out or anything, but the iDoing loses connection to it. I started using the ZLink again and it's working pretty well, though sometimes it's slow to connect and I can still tell the resolution is a little lower but it's still fine.

ts10 uis7862 no front parking sensors

hi all
i bought one of these to replace a px5 unit in my 2012 ford focus. but with the ts10 the front parking sensors and the auto park feature do not work. the rear sensors work . front and rear senors and autopark is factory fitted. i have done an update from system. now at mcu version;-ts10v.1.1-100-414-a4c695-210818(mm031)
system version:-ts10.1.2_20210819.162244_tw1-v2
can version: s1s2fdf10a-210430
i have tried asking the seller, but they just keep asking for more information (what more can i give them?)
does anyone here have any ideas please. ?
would a custom rom help? different canbus module or software? ( i have tried using the canbus from the px5 unit but no joy )
or even just settings im missing?
any help please. thank you in advance

Robbo20236 said:
hi all
i bought one of these to replace a px5 unit in my 2012 ford focus. but with the ts10 the front parking sensors and the auto park feature do not work. the rear sensors work . front and rear senors and autopark is factory fitted. i have done an update from system. now at mcu version;-ts10v.1.1-100-414-a4c695-210818(mm031)
system version:-ts10.1.2_20210819.162244_tw1-v2
can version: s1s2fdf10a-210430
i have tried asking the seller, but they just keep asking for more information (what more can i give them?)
does anyone here have any ideas please. ?
would a custom rom help? different canbus module or software? ( i have tried using the canbus from the px5 unit but no joy )
or even just settings im missing?
any help please. thank you in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Did you get any answers? Have same problem unfortunately.

No I havnt. Do you have a focus as well? Have you better luck asking the seller? I had another go using the csn bus box from my pc5 unit and the front sensors do work but there is no beeping as the px5 unit had a speaker wired to the harness an the ts10 unit has an internal speaker in the canbus box. But nothing when I try the Autopark feature. Still hoping some kind soul on here will have an answer

Yup, Focus as well. I did get some information over the Internet that cars "well equiped" have this issue, although I'm still waitin for my seller to respond in this matter. We are trying to fix it for a week now.
I did ordered new canbus (Rainse). I read that this manufacturer has better software, will try this but need to wait about 2 weeks unfortunately.
For now I get new software TS10.1.2_20211023.140539_TW1-V2.rar
But there's another problem with it, meaning my touch is "again" twisted 180 degrees..
Will keep you posted if we figure out something in this matter.

So here's a question surley someone can answer. And excuse me if it sounds stupid but is the software for things like parking sensors and autopark all done on the canbus unit? Even the onscreen overlay?. If so then the whole issue is down to the canbus unit then?

All shoud be going (translated) via canbus, although I did noticed, that with new system update my rear sensors now working correctly
Edit:
Screen touch is fixed, but still one of the butons of fixed menu (bottom), doesn't work. Don't know how to fix this dough.
Still waiting for our "friend" to response.

so if all is going through the canbus unit. shouldnt the one from my px5 unit work with this one?. everything on the px5 unit worked ok . parking sensors, auto park. air con.
i may try again the weeekend ,cant remember if both front and rear parking sensors worked . but for sure there was no autopark or any beeping as the ts10 canus has a built in speaker where the px5 unit had a speaker wired to the wiring loom.
so do you think the wiring loom from the px5 unit could be adapted to work with the ts10 then maybe all the sensors would work?
picture is of the px5 canbus unit
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Much appreciate if you can check it. Mine new (different) canbus is on the way to me. Ill try on my side.
Auto parking feature for sure is working, but there are no indicators what so ever (tried couple of times).
My actual canbus:

thats the same as i got with my ts10.
so you saying your auto park is working but with no on screen display?
i tried with mine but was to scared to try it as there was no display to tell me what to do

Robbo20236 said:
thats the same as i got with my ts10.
so you saying your auto park is working but with no on screen display?
i tried with mine but was to scared to try it as there was no display to tell me what to do
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup, it's working.
Check this
Made this chaotic video couple days ago.

Hi,
Since you didn't response on my previous post, I can share my discovery.
I replaced canbus which came with original unit to a new one (picture attached), and guess what... Now everything is working!
I have AC control from screen it self, front parking sensors are working, like they should and rear ones are more sensitive now.
Finally I can enjoy my purchase!

You are a hero. I was contemplating trying to wire my canbus from my px5 unit into this one. Now just need to find where to purchase that one. I take it the autopark feature works as well?
I don't suppose you have the link where you bought yours from?
Thank you

Robbo20236 said:
You are a hero. I was contemplating trying to wire my canbus from my px5 unit into this one. Now just need to find where to purchase that one. I take it the autopark feature works as well?
I don't suppose you have the link where you bought yours from?
Thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course I have:
Link
Edit:
Link should work now

Link isn't working but I think I've found one on aliexpress. Will message seller to check before I order. But thank you again. Hopefully this may help others as well

[email protected] said:
Yup, Focus as well. I did get some information over the Internet that cars "well equiped" have this issue, although I'm still waitin for my seller to respond in this matter. We are trying to fix it for a week now.
I did ordered new canbus (Rainse). I read that this manufacturer has better software, will try this but need to wait about 2 weeks unfortunately.
For now I get new software TS10.1.2_20211023.140539_TW1-V2.rar
But there's another problem with it, meaning my touch is "again" twisted 180 degrees..
Will keep you posted if we figure out something in this matter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, where did you dowloaded that firmware?

phenom_x4 said:
Hi, where did you dowloaded that firmware?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Meaning firmware for canbus?
You can download firmware for canbus via head unit in factory settings.
(Old pictures attached)

[email protected] said:
Hi,
Meaning firmware for canbus?
You can download firmware for canbus via head unit in factory settings.
(Old pictures attached)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mean ROM firmware. Hey, my radio looks different from yours. Why?

This can be changed in system settings as well (AC control off).
New ROM was provided by seller (if you want one, I need some time to upload it).

[email protected] said:
This can be changed in system settings as well (AC control off).
New ROM was provided by seller (if you want one, I need some time to upload it).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have no ROM if need it to reinstall it if I broke something. If you can upload it I'll be much appreciate it

Don't know if you search something online, but if you need any information regarding "how to..", here's a good place for get more info:
Link
Firmware is also available to download in one of the folders.
Need to use translator sometimes

Interference Reverse Camera Celerio

Hello there,
Recently I have installed an Android head-unit inside my Suzuki Celerio, which before had a simple but well functioning Bluetooth Car radio with cd player. The main purpose of installing a screen in my car, was in order to install an reverse camera and use it for Android Auto.
Before I thought it was caused by the 12led reverse camera, so I replaced that one by an GreenYi AHD reverse camera. I already have AHD enabled, but that didn't change anything. Expect for the image quality.
I have had my wife film what happens everytime the engine is running, and I'm in reverse. Online I read I might need a Rectifier Relay, but on AliExpress these are specified to be for American or German cars. But that might perhaps be the solution or I'm missing something?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_vUDnd1
I already have tried many things, but none of these solved it. The reverse camera trigger cable, is tapped into the connector of the reverse light. That's how it gets it 12v, because I don't wanna destroy any OEM wiring of the car.
Would this Rectifier Relay really be the solution? In the advertisement, it says don't buy when you do not have German or American car. But I did read within the feedback that it has worked for Volvo example as well, which is Chinese.... okay sorry Swedish.
But I'm really out of options and feel like, I rather have no reverse camera. If I can't get it working properly.

DexterMorganNL said:
Hello there,
Recently I have installed an Android head-unit inside my Suzuki Celerio, which before had a simple but well functioning Bluetooth Car radio with cd player. The main purpose of installing a screen in my car, was in order to install an reverse camera and use it for Android Auto.
Before I thought it was caused by the 12led reverse camera, so I replaced that one by an GreenYi AHD reverse camera. I already have AHD enabled, but that didn't change anything. Expect for the image quality.
I have had my wife film what happens everytime the engine is running, and I'm in reverse. Online I read I might need a Rectifier Relay, but on AliExpress these are specified to be for American or German cars. But that might perhaps be the solution or I'm missing something?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_vUDnd1
I already have tried many things, but none of these solved it. The reverse camera trigger cable, is tapped into the connector of the reverse light. That's how it gets it 12v, because I don't wanna destroy any OEM wiring of the car.
Would this Rectifier Relay really be the solution? In the advertisement, it says don't buy when you do not have German or American car. But I did read within the feedback that it has worked for Volvo example as well, which is Chinese.... okay sorry Swedish.
But I'm really out of options and feel like, I rather have no reverse camera. If I can't get it working properly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try connecting the ground cable to the part that is connected directly to the car body, for example on the fastening bolt on the back door of your car or on other parts that have direct contact with the body of your car.
if there is still interference with the video display (like in your video) then
you can try the Rectifier Relay device.
in my experience these devices can be installed on Japanese cars.
Good luck.

Jack Sparoh said:
try connecting the ground cable to the part that is connected directly to the car body, for example on the fastening bolt on the back door of your car or on other parts that have direct contact with the body of your car.
if there is still interference with the video display (like in your video) then
you can try the Rectifier Relay device.
in my experience these devices can be installed on Japanese cars.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tried that yesterday evening, didn't change anything. My other thought is that perhaps I should put some tape around the RCA plug that goes into the headunit? But I can't reach it, without taking the system out.
I read that on Reddit.
https://www.reddit.com/r/CarAV/comments/9orlvu
I already ordered a Rectifier Relay Device as well, will take some while before it's going be delivered. That will be my last solution I guess.

I finally received the Rectifier Relay Device, it took some time with the slow shipping from AlliExpress. But I just installed it between the reverse camera and the power source, the reverse light.
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It a very small part, but I'm hoping this did the trick. Because I haven't tested yet, but if this doesn't work? Than I'm kinda out of options. So next time when I'm going take a drive, I will see if it did the job or not.
Well it works with the ignition switch on, so now I just have to wait until I go for a drive. As the interference only was there, while the engine is running. But I atleast already wanted to know if the reverse camera was still working, after putting this Car Camera Filter between it.

Well it didn't work at all, the interference is still there and perhaps even worse than before. I'm getting a bit frustrated by all of this, because I already tried so much.
Only thing which I haven't tried, is wiring the ground cable directly to the ground or the reverse light. Just I don't know which connection inside the plug, is the ground? That's why I had the ground connected to the car directly.
I also have seen a YouTube video, in where the ground cable was actually causing this interference.

The problem is the voltage, when engine is running the voltage goes around 14v, you can try a dc to dc step down converter. Headunit has cable that can feed the reverse camera, you can try this as well

leo06 said:
The problem is the voltage, when engine is running the voltage goes around 14v, you can try a dc to dc step down converter. Headunit has cable that can feed the reverse camera, you can try this as well
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Click to collapse
That sounds like a good idea this dc to dc step down converter, as they are relatively cheap on AliExpress. So it's worth a try.

The connection to the reverse light causes problems, if there is interference, then an anti-interference filter should help, if that doesn't help, then anything can interfere, for example an additional connected appliance, non-original led bulbs, alternator, antenna amplifier..... The best and cheapest the solution is to connect the power supply of the camera directly to the car radio, I think mekede has it on pin A5- reverse detecting line. After switching on the reverse, you will measure 12V here. This output gives a stable voltage without interference.

Pavel-71 said:
The connection to the reverse light causes problems, if there is interference, then an anti-interference filter should help, if that doesn't help, then anything can interfere, for example an additional connected appliance, non-original led bulbs, alternator, antenna amplifier..... The best and cheapest the solution is to connect the power supply of the camera directly to the car radio, I think mekede has it on pin A5- reverse detecting line. After switching on the reverse, you will measure 12V here. This output gives a stable voltage without interference.
View attachment 5711505
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Click to collapse
Wouldn't I need to run a very long DC cable from that connection than to reverse camera? Which is near to impossible, as those cables aren't long enough. Now the trigger wire from the RCA cable is connected to the reverse light, where it sends the trigger to the headunit.
And it sends the trigger by this wire, to the headunit. Because at the headunit the trigger wire is connected at the other end as well, to the A5 pin.
Anyway it could be high frequency noise being picked up: I talked with a fellow Dutch Suzuki Celerio owner, and he said it would most likely be high frequency noise. In order to solve that, you need to put a ferrite core ring around that cable.
So I ordered two of those as well, and going put one closely to the RCA connector at the headunit. I should be able to reach that cable, without the need to take a the headunit.
And I think the DC to DC step down converter, might actually not make a difference: because if I'm not mistaken, this anti-interference filter which I have sitting between there now. Would also convert the voltage down to 12v and the interference is still there, it even got worse as the image looks wrapped.
Before that it was just some black artifacts appearing in the image, but now the image even freezes sometimes for a verg short time. It's like milliseconds, but I could still see it happening. So that filter needs to be removed, as it makes things worse.
But it's a pain in the ass and if these Ferrite rings or the DC to DC step down converter doesn't work, than I'm just going live with this interference. It didn't effect the ability of using the reverse camera the whole time, just a bit annoyed to OCD autistic brain which is malfunctioning. Others might already have stopped trying to solve it, but I still continue.
But if you would power it directly from the headunit: I'm correct than, that I would need to run the power cable all the way to the headunit? And wiring the trigger wire at that point, together the AC power cable?
Just the way I have done at the reverse, but you would still need the trigger from that reverse light. Else it won't work.

A5- reverse detecting line, should give 12V only after switching on the reverse, so it is enough to connect it directly to the camera. Try to measure it first. I have it wired like this and it works without any problems.

Pavel-71 said:
A5- reverse detecting line, should give 12V only after switching on the reverse, so it is enough to connect it directly to the camera. Try to measure it first. I have it wired like this and it works without any problems.View attachment 5711613
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Click to collapse
You have canbus? There is no way, it would get the trigger if it isn't connected to the reverse light in my case. Because only that way the headunit knows, to switch to the reverse camera. As my car doesn't have canbus.
So I would guess the trigger wire needs to be connected both at the reverse light, and the headunit: where you would than have to run another long cable. And I believe the power cable might not be long enough.
And then at the headunit, you need to join the trigger wire and cable of the DC together and connect them to A5 Reverse Detecting wire. Which I thought is only meant to give the headunit the signal, that reverse camera is powered on. I didn't know it can power the reverse camera as well.
Anyway this I might consider the very very very last option, because it's a pain in the ass to again run a all the way to the truck. That was one of the most difficult things, of the installation of the reverse camera.
Placing a Ferrite ring, is actually way easier: so I hope that would help.

Yes, I have a Canbus adapter, it didn't occur to me that you don't have one, that will probably be the problem. In that case, wiring to the reverse light is necessary.

The reverse detecting line is only a trigger for the headunit to when the reverse gear is selected. There is another cable for reverse camera power.

DexterMorganNL said:
You have canbus? There is no way, it would get the trigger if it isn't connected to the reverse light in my case. Because only that way the headunit knows, to switch to the reverse camera. As my car doesn't have canbus.
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My car doesn't have canbus but the reverse trigger line. I use the reverse signal to power the camera like suggested by @Pavel-71
Some camera vendors and vendors of step-down converters suggest to use REVERSE as power source. Another approach could be to use B+ and trigger via a relay via reverse.

Ferrite Beads didn't change a thing.... interference is still there. I only haven't tried the DC to DC step down converter, but I'm getting very tired to try to solve this interference.
I figured out how to setup this DC to DC step down converter: with this one, you can't set the input voltage. So in order to setup the output voltage, I used an old notebook charger that is labeled to output 19v.
So with this little screw, you need to turn it. One time around is about 1v, but I wanted to be sure. But now it's setup at 12v and if I would install it, between the reverse light and reverse camera power connection.
Than when the engine is running, it would be converted down from whichever voltage it's having. Down to 12v. Not sure when I'm going try it out, but atleast I already setup the step down converter.

leo06 said:
The problem is the voltage, when engine is running the voltage goes around 14v, you can try a dc to dc step down converter. Headunit has cable that can feed the reverse camera, you can try this as well
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For anyone finding this topic after searching on Google: the DC to DC step down converter, didn't work and made things worse.
Only thing that surprised me, the built-in voltmeter was measuring just 10.5v and not 12v. But this can't be correct..... I guess it might be off a bit. Anyway I'm out of options and going keep it the way it is.
I will take the interference for granted: still don't know if the RCA cable is picking something up, or its indeed because of the fluctuating voltage that the reverse light gives.

With the engine running says 10.5v? Did you adjust the output of the converter?

leo06 said:
With the engine running says 10.5v? Did you adjust the output of the converter?
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Yes the output was set to 12v: you adjust it with this screw. I did that with a 19v notebook adapter, because this step down converter won't let you put in a higher voltage than the input source.
The 10.5v was without engine running: I tried to film with my phone, what the voltage would be when the engine runs. But the vibrations made this little Mainboard fall down.
Only thing I was still able to capture: when it fell, the input voltage was showing just below 9v so that doesn't make sense either. Because it should normally be higher when the engine is running.

What car model do you have? The reverse light is led or normal bulb?
do you have a multimeter to check the voltage?

leo06 said:
What car model do you have? The reverse light is led or normal bulb?
do you have a multimeter to check the voltage?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Suzuki Celerio 2015 build year: it's a normal bulb inside. No I don't have a multimeter, almost ordered a cheap one from AlliExpress. But feel like that I already been wasting some money on trying to solve this.

Head unit only turn on when Truck is running, not in ACC mode?

Hi, I decided to give an Android Head unit a try in my 2019 Ram 1500 Classic Warlock. Install went pretty well, despite that it didn't come with any instructions. Everything is working very well, but there is one thing I can't figure out. When the key is in the ACC position, the screen is off and there is no audio. When they key is in RUN postion, everything works. I feel like this is probably an android setting, or canbus setting, because It was all plug and play. I could be wrong though. Anyone have any ideas?

Likely a wiring error.
Generally for a high wattage system I would use a dedicated fused heavy gauge (overrated) wires coming directly from the battery with no daisy chaining to all of the system components including amps. A single ground and V+ point (from main power cables) for all components is best.
Ground loops are to be avoided, always.
This layout means auto power downs must be taken into consideration. Equipment and your goals determine this phase of the layout and implementation. You should make a wiring diagram of all components in the system if needed and need to have/know all inputs/outputs of all system components clearly marked or color coded. You can of course use full manual power control but don't forget to turn it off...

I'm not sure if that'd be it. It's a completely stock sound system, no amp. I feel like theres a good chance its a canbus issue, because I traced the ACC IN wire and it goes to the canbus box.

rj 420x said:
I'm not sure if that'd be it. It's a completely stock sound system, no amp. I feel like theres a good chance its a canbus issue, because I traced the ACC IN wire and it goes to the canbus box.
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Click to collapse
Then your probably correct as long as the inputs are correct. Make sure it has a good ground.

blackhawk said:
Then your probably correct as long as the inputs are correct. Make sure it has a good ground.
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Click to collapse
Where would I check the ground at? There were no ground wires that I had to manually connect anywhere. It came with a complete wiring harness that was plug and play

rj 420x said:
Where would I check the ground at? There were no ground wires that I had to manually connect anywhere. It came with a complete wiring harness that was plug and play
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Click to collapse
It's probably grounded through the harness and chassis if in physically contact with sheet metal. Probably not the issue.

rj 420x said:
Where would I check the ground at? There were no ground wires that I had to manually connect anywhere. It came with a complete wiring harness that was plug and play
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Every head unit has a ground wire. Here you can find the example of an Junsun V1 pro:
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Pin 16 is ground.

TorstenH said:
Every head unit has a ground wire. Here you can find the example of an Junsun V1 pro:
View attachment 5840361
Pin 16 is ground.
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Click to collapse
That looks like the wiring diagram that was on the listing for my unit. But like I said before, it was a pre wired harness adapting the head unit to the stock wiring harness.
But, could it really be a ground issue if the head units works fine when they is in the RUN position? It’s just not on when key is in ACC position

rj 420x said:
That looks like the wiring diagram that was on the listing for my unit. But like I said before, it was a pre wired harness adapting the head unit to the stock wiring harness.
But, could it really be a ground issue if the head units works fine when they is in the RUN position? It’s just not on when key is in ACC position
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Then it's definitively not a grounding wire. You should switch ACC and B+

TorstenH said:
Then it's definitively not a grounding wire. You should switch ACC and B+
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There is an option in the “Factory” settings called “Reverse Power supply”
It is currently set to On. I wanted to try flipping that, but I’m afraid of what consequences that might have

rj 420x said:
There is an option in the “Factory” settings called “Reverse Power supply”
It is currently set to On. I wanted to try flipping that, but I’m afraid of what consequences that might have
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Click to collapse
My head unit doesn't have this switch but if sounds like it is to switch ACC and B+.

TorstenH said:
My head unit doesn't have this switch but if sounds like it is to switch ACC and B+.
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Any risk in trying it? I’m just afraid if I do it, and that is not what it does it. At not be reversible

rj 420x said:
Any risk in trying it? I’m just afraid if I do it, and that is not what it does it. At not be reversible
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Why shouldn't it be reversible? If it's just switching ACC and B+ I see absolutely no risk.

TorstenH said:
Why shouldn't it be reversible? If it's just switching ACC and B+ I see absolutely no risk.
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Just tried it, had no effect

TorstenH said:
Why shouldn't it be reversible? If it's just switching ACC and B+ I see absolutely no risk.
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What’s more interesting, is I just did some digging, and that is what that setting is supposed to do. Switch CONT and ACC

rj 420x said:
What’s more interesting, is I just did some digging, and that is what that setting is supposed to do. Switch CONT and ACC
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Click to collapse
According to this post in the “FYT Setting Explained” section
General FYT based Spreadtrum uis7862(s) (unisoc ums512) & uis8581a (sc9863) - Q&A, Mods, tips, firmware
Last revised: 07 June 2023 (reason: added info for the uis8581a) This thread tries to be a "one fits all" thread about FYT based Spreadtrum Unisoc uis7862(s) (Unisoc ums512) and uis8581a (sc9863) head units and its software, modded or not. The...
forum.xda-developers.com

rj 420x said:
According to this post in the “FYT Setting Explained” section
General FYT based Spreadtrum uis7862(s) (unisoc ums512) & uis8581a (sc9863) - Q&A, Mods, tips, firmware
Last revised: 07 June 2023 (reason: added info for the uis8581a) This thread tries to be a "one fits all" thread about FYT based Spreadtrum Unisoc uis7862(s) (Unisoc ums512) and uis8581a (sc9863) head units and its software, modded or not. The...
forum.xda-developers.com
Click to expand...
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Then you have to switch the wires physically.

TorstenH said:
Then you have to switch the wires physically.
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Not sure I'm comfortable doing that. Probably just gonna leave it like it is, no real downside to it I guess

rj 420x said:
Not sure I'm comfortable doing that. Probably just gonna leave it like it is, no real downside to it I guess
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Click to collapse
That means you will cut hard the power supply of your head unit every time you turn off the ignition. That is like you remove the battery from your laptop to turn it off. I don't think that will extend the lifetime of your head unit.

TorstenH said:
That means you will cut hard the power supply of your head unit every time you turn off the ignition. That is like you remove the battery from your laptop to turn it off. I don't think that will extend the lifetime of your head unit.
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Click to collapse
It does go to sleep mode though, like when I turn the truck on, it’s booted up and ready almost instantly. If it was cutting power, I’d assume that it wouldn’t wake up so fast when turning on the truck