Seicane 10.1 Android 8 2003 Accord problems - Android Head-Units

Hey guys, I recently purchased and installed the seicane 10.1 android headunit in my 2003 Accord. It has the integrated climate control buttons. In all of the reviews and videos I have seen, when making adjustments to the climate control, those adjustments (fan speed, temperature, air direction) should appear on the headunit screen. Since I first installed it, this function has not worked. I have made sure to plug in the small white cable which connects the tablet with the climate control circuit board. When I emailed seicane they told me to check that the Canbus setting was set to "116 Accord_7 (DaoJun)". I checked and it is set correctly.
They also told me to check the "vendor setting" and said that it is located in "settings- system information." I have checked through every setting and menu and can not find anything that says "system information" or "vendor".
They also sent me a new circuit board for the climate control in case it was bad hardware, so i swapped it in and am still having the same issue.
Also, on their website they say that the upper climate control screen (also displays the clock) should work, and it does not.
Basically, I'm looking for some guidance as to my next steps. Has anyone had these issues? Can anyone tell me where I would find the "vendor" setting in order to verify that the setting is correct? I am having a hard time even dealing with seicane because their english is not great.
I have pictures on my google drive but can not post external links until 10 posts. If you can help, please pm me and I can send the link through there. Thanks in advance guys/girls.
Model- HF SERIES H221(1024x600)
Android Version- 8.1.0
Kernel version- 4.4.138+(gcc version 6.3.1 20170404 (Linaro GCC 6.3-2017.05))
Build number- PX30 8.1.0 OPM6. 171019.030.E1 eng.hct.20181219.213729
MCU Version- MTCE_HF_V3.01_1
CPU- Quadcore Coretex-A35 @1.5G

I have the same issue in an Accord 7 with a Funrover octacore Android 8.1

Pacovich said:
I have the same issue in an Accord 7 with a Funrover octacore Android 8.1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do they refuse to give you your money back too? They tell me that it's too troublesome to return and then offered me $150 refund. Its absolutely ridiculous.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Incorrect canbus speed
eman2289 said:
Do they refuse to give you your money back too? They tell me that it's too troublesome to return and then offered me $150 refund. Its absolutely ridiculous.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The sound system of my car is a premium one and the radio device must send some commands to the amplifier but it doesn't. Because of that, the gain is too high and little electric noises are perceptible. I have tried canbus options for Hyundai with suffix AMP and the sound volume becomes extremely high. That is not a solution but shows the correct canbus speed is not 38400 bps as set originally. I have read the correct speed for comfort canbus of my vehicle is 95 kbps, perhaps 100 or 125. In all case, is the same speed as Hyundais AMP type have. I think Nissan AMP types give similar results, and another third mark. I don't remind exactly other marks because the key idea is that the canbus comfort speed is not correct and it is also necessary verify all canbus codes and add ones for the premium amplifier. And, thus, the hardware seems to be ok. It is not useful to change it. It is an issue related to software.
I have asked to Funrover for a solution and I have sent them several informations as I have explained here. But they have replied only one time to evade. I think that people wanting to purchase a similar device must wait. I think this issue is related to Android 8.0 and 8.1. In all case, Funrover must give me a solution even if they must contact original software developers who probably work for many integrators. If Funrover doesn't give a solution, I consider that another clients must be select a different mark.

Did you ever manage to fix this issue?
I've just installed the same unit and have the exact same issue.

brettf said:
Did you ever manage to fix this issue?
I've just installed the same unit and have the exact same issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, still fighting with seicane about returning it. You're in for quite the headache...
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Oh no!
There's one piece of info I've found on that I've yet to try.
Check out this video:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=pPvaCGCaypo
The person had the same problem as us. In the description he explains how he fixed it.
Basically just try swapping the white and white black wire that go to the main harness from the climate controls.
Edit: Haven't tried it yet. Might be worth a shot
EDIT 2: I did it. I swapped the wires now and it works.

To anyone that has the same issue on the Seicane unit for the Accord 7 - model H221(L) etc.
I found the solution - in my original post below I pointed to the video of another person with the same issue.
In the video description they mentioned how they fixed it: By swapping the white and white/black stripe wires on the 4 pin connector that connects to the climate control board.
This image is linked to in the video, saying that it's how the wires should look after being swapped.
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However, on my unit, they were already configured this way - and the climate control display was not working.
I tried swapping the white and white/black stripe wires in any case (Which results in their layout being the opposite of this picture), and this solved the issue.
So, it looks like there is a solution. And it's NOT software related.
brettf said:
Oh no!
There's one piece of info I've found on that I've yet to try.
Check out this video:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=pPvaCGCaypo
The person had the same problem as us. In the description he explains how he fixed it.
Basically just try swapping the white and white black wire that go to the main harness from the climate controls.
Edit: Haven't tried it yet. Might be worth a shot
EDIT 2: I did it. I swapped the wires now and it works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

eman2289 said:
seicane
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
brettf said:
To anyone that has the same issue on the Seicane unit for the Accord 7 - model H221(L) etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does yours Seicane head unit have similar problem with window defrosting like in the video?
https://streamable.com/qz9wr
The relay switch ON/OFF all the time, you can hear a "clik" sound.

maxbfg said:
Does yours Seicane head unit have similar problem with window defrosting like in the video?
https://streamable.com/qz9wr
The relay switch ON/OFF all the time, you can hear a "clik" sound.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No issues with mine. Worked as it should. I ended up returning the unit due to multiple other problems
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I had this same problem too -- i'm one of the people in the comments of that YouTube video, who was troubleshooting with the OP.
I'm surprised that Seicane is still sending out cables with the TX/RX wires reversed... Still haven't figured out how to change Celsius to Fahrenheit though.

I've also mounted a Seicane H221 on an Accord 7 (2005) and I'm facing some issues.
MCU version: MTCE_HF_V2.96_1
Build number: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 eng.hct.20181102.112849 test-keys
Regarding climate control, the car is equipped with dual zone. When first mounting the head unit, I was using the provided Y-cable which is in case for single zone AC. Re-mounting without the Y-cable solved the issue.
I have still some issues:
1/ Important: Climate control OSD work, buttons works but temperature is definitly not managed correctly: erratic temperature, too cold, too warm, fullspeed fan while temperature difference between requested and actual is 1deg C, etc...
2/ Less important: head LCD display is now blank (no temperature, hour, ...)
3/ Behind steering wheel LCD display do not display temperature
I suppose these 3 issues are somewhat linked to CANbus management. First, I'm wondering if I should consider upgrading the MCU firmware (MTCE) ? Android ? CANbus protocol ?
I've read Hal9k bring some improvements on these units. Has anyone tried upgrading Seicane H221 with this ROM ?
Thank you in advance for your answers !

Anyone know how to get into recovery mode?
Any ideas about how to get into developer's options, I'm using Android 9 and pressing build # 7 times doesn't work.

hmm, i have bought the same android unit from seicane, this one came with android 9 , and somehow i cannot get the airco display to show up.
I did already try the connector cable swap ( white <--> whiteblack ) , but it doesn't seem to do anything.
I am also wondering, the unit doesn't show any lights on the buttons, so i am unable to operate the a/c in the dark.
is that by design, or should there be lights in the buttons?
Does any of you guys have any suggestions?

I have similar issues to some of you guys on a Seicane unit in my Australian Honda Accord Euro 2007 - I believe this is the same car as the US Acura TSX.
1) The air con controls keep popping up on the display every couple of minutes even though I'm not touching any of the physical buttons/knobs.
2) The outside temperature reading has disappeared from the instrument cluster behind the steering wheel
This is the unit I have:
I'd love to know if anyone has any potential fixes!

brettf said:
To anyone that has the same issue on the Seicane unit for the Accord 7 - model H221(L) etc.
I found the solution - in my original post below I pointed to the video of another person with the same issue.
In the video description they mentioned how they fixed it: By swapping the white and white/black stripe wires on the 4 pin connector that connects to the climate control board.
This image is linked to in the video, saying that it's how the wires should look after being swapped.
However, on my unit, they were already configured this way - and the climate control display was not working.
I tried swapping the white and white/black stripe wires in any case (Which results in their layout being the opposite of this picture), and this solved the issue.
So, it looks like there is a solution. And it's NOT software related.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you this worked for me everything pops up but in centigrade unfortunately. I also lost the outside temperature on the gage cluster. I also noticed the fan speed was pretty slow and the duel buttons and heater buttons do not work. My unit had a very noisy display and now it changes colors and goes crazy Im wondering if it is another wiring problem. I also have a way that you guys can put android auto on it. you can get the headunit reloaded apk and once you do that Android Auto works perfectly.

since the wire swap was not working for mine, seicane is sending me a nuw board + new cables...
I'll update if this is a solution, however, i doubt it.
ps: the customer support isn't that bad, the only problem i face is, the don't understand english
you have to be very specific and don't use complicated words.

dandandan75 said:
Thank you this worked for me everything pops up but in centigrade unfortunately. I also lost the outside temperature on the gage cluster. I also noticed the fan speed was pretty slow and the duel buttons and heater buttons do not work. My unit had a very noisy display and now it changes colors and goes crazy Im wondering if it is another wiring problem. I also have a way that you guys can put android auto on it. you can get the headunit reloaded apk and once you do that Android Auto works perfectly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can choose F in factory settings iirc

Hello! I have the same Celsius to Fahrenheit settings issue with my Seicane. Were you able to figure that out? Want all displays/settings to be in Fahrenheit. Thanks in advance for your help.

pjottrr said:
since the wire swap was not working for mine, seicane is sending me a new board + new cables...
I'll update if this is a solution, however, i doubt it.
ps: the customer support isn't that bad, the only problem i face is, the don't understand english
you have to be very specific and don't use complicated words.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So i got the new board and installed everything ...
and guess what, as expected it wasn't working, still no airco diplay.
so i went to my car dealer and he explained to me that i have a kind of freak car.
in the states it would be sold as an honda acura tl , but it was built in the UK . i have one of the first cars that came from the production line, and i think they changed some things along the way.
apparently the radio is the only thing different from the acura. it is the same as the normal accord 2003.
so he told me to look for a can-bus setting for the acura.
I couldn't find any, but in a last resort i found a canbus setting 120 "accord 7 'long chinese name' 2 "
as the board i have is version 2 i thought, let's give it a shot.
and upon reboot the first thing i saw was, in the upper right corner, i suddenly had the outside temperature displayed
i knew it was good and indeed it was. i now have a fully functional headunit.
i have no clue if this board swap was needed, maybe not , but it doesn't really matter, it works, and I'm happy.

Related

Umecity (VW): Allwinner T8, 2GB/32GB, 7.1.2, 9" 1024x600, Shallow 2din [2017/11]

You'd think I'd learn my lesson after the last ten head units I've purchased, but I saw the new Allwinner T8 headunits, and decided I wanted to give it a try. The new radio is currently on it's way from China, and I'll be updating this thread as I find out more information.
Update: Unit passed testing and has just shipped out. Should have it early next week if it doesn't get hung up in customs.
Update 2: Head unit arrived yesterday (11/28/2017), and I installed it today. Initial updates below.
[SIZE="+1"]PHOTOS[/SIZE]
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View attachment 4331016
[SIZE="+2"]Umecity (Youmecity) Allwinner T8[/SIZE]
OS: Android 7.1.2 (Nougat)
CPU: Allwinner T8, 8-core Cortex-A7 @ 1.6GHz, up to 1.8GHz
Memory: 2GB DDR3 RAM, 32GB EMMC, 2xUSB2, 1 MicroSD
Graphics: PowerVR SGX544MP1 GPU (OpenGL ES1.1/2.0 OpenCL1.1)
Display: 9", 1024x600 capacitive
Radio Tuner: 7786
Amplifier: TDA7851
Output Power: 4x50w
Dimensions: 220mm x 130mm x 27mm
Weight: 5kg
MCU Version: 5.3.19-145-13-A46101-171118
System Vers: V9.2.2_20171117.102842_JP1-FD
Linux Kernel: 3.10.65
Security Patch Level: 2017-07-05, 7.1.2 (Nougat)
MCU Version: T5.3.19-145-10-C06101-170318
System Vers: V9.2.2_20170915.144527_JP1
[SIZE="+1"]Passwords[/SIZE]
Extra Settings: 123456
Developer and Reset: 7890
[SIZE="+2"]Identifying Firmwares[/SIZE]
[SIZE="+1"]General Information[/SIZE]
Example: 9.2.2_20171117.102842_JP1-FD
9.2.2 - The hardware version, and android version. For instance, 9 is T8, and 9.2.2 is Nougat.
20171117 - Release date of the firmware in YYYYMMDD format.
102842 - Possibly the build time for the firmware. Uncertain.
JP1: The manufacturer ID.
FD: ???
[SIZE="+1"]....by Version[/SIZE]
Per @bazanovv, "There are 3 different non-compatible versions of T3 hardware and software, Default one (sleep mode added later and not so good), New one (firmware is a development of R16 branch), and K2001 (usually very compact and cheaper). Allwinner T8 head units continue and develop the same firmware branch - V9.x.x on T8, V8.x.x on T3 New (V8.3.x with Android 7.1) and V7.x.x on R16. Most tips and tricks from T3 (new one) will work on T8."
R16 - 7.x.x
T3 - 8.x.x
T3 - 8.3.x - Android 7.1, Nougat
T8 - 9.1.1 - Android 6.0.1, Marshmallow
T8 - 9.2.2 - Android 7.1.2, Nougat
[SIZE="+1"]...by Manufacturer[/SIZE]
From information gleaned mostly from various threads over on 4PDA, it is advised to not install firmwares from another manufacturer, unless it has already been patched to be universal. Issues such as red messages at the bottom of the screen, or unsupported hardware can result.
JP1 or JP1-FD: Umecity
TW2-FD: TopWay
KED3-5: Kaier
[SIZE="+1"]Allwinner T8 Documentation[/SIZE]
www.allwinnertech.com/uploads/pdf/20160515151908f5.pdf
[SIZE="+1"]4PDA Discussion Thread (Russian)[/SIZE]
https://4pda.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=875407
[SIZE="+1"]My Initial Feelings:[/SIZE]
This appears to be basically the same chassis as the Allwinner T3 units, but with a newer CPU and OS. Unfortunately, they cheaped out a little with the bezel on this one, which didn't include a MicroSD card slot like was on the previous model. This model has the same issue of accidentally clicking the capacitive bezel buttons that the T3 had.
The wiring is a bit of a mess. Some things were obviously just cheaped out on, like boost power for the antenna to the harness should come with connectors already installed. There is a brown/yellow wire pair coming from the CANBUS box that plugs into the back of the unit, rather than connecting via the main harness plug. Just as with the T3 model, the Volkswagen ISO1 harness has an ISO2 harness spliced into it. Having the extra connector leaves the system open to RF interference, and makes the wiring a mess.
After working with the unit for about an hour, and running the benchmarks, I started to notice some interference from the speakers. It wasn't affected by unit volume, and was present when muted. The noise sounded like either RF interference, or he noise you get when a capacitor is squealing. I did not notice the noise before the benchmarks, and need to see if this recurs on the next boot up. After extensive listening, the noise only seems to occur (for me) after the unit has been powered on for a while, and run hard. Benchmarking, initial setup and app download, etc. Once I reboot, I don't hear the noise anymore.
For scoring so blandly in the benchmarks, this unit is very responsive. I had no issues or slowdowns running multiple apps at the same time: Maps, Play Music, and Play Store downloading in the background, etc.
[SIZE="+1"]Some Items Worth Pointing Out[/SIZE]:
Bluetooth is for phone use only: I've always been critical of Bluetooth audio quality, especially for music. It's interesting that they point out that Bluetooth only works with one sound channel, so music will not sound good. They suggest music over USB. I'm guessing with android auto, or their EasyConnect mirroring.
[SIZE="+1"]Tests and Results[/SIZE]
Ease of install: Super easy to install, due to the extremely shallow depth of the device. Plenty of room for the wires behind the radio. Only annoyance was the combined ISO 1/2 adapter, which is just a mess.
Screen visibility: So far, so good. Less brightness, but better clarity than the Dasaita PX5 unit I have.
Deep Sleep: Well, no deep sleep support. Has a few shutdown times, maxing out at 30 minutes IIRC.
Boot time: So, the numbers quoted up top are pure fiction. Took ~40s from cold boot to launcher.
Backup cam start time: Excellent. Was able to use the backup camera immediately from power on.
Antutu Score: ~22500
3DMark Score: Benchmark crashed.
Volume scaling: Again, default audio is too freaking loud with my OEM Fender amp. Anything past 4-5 (out of thirty) is way too loud. On the good side, seems the Amp Volume can be adjusted. When set at it's lowest level, the scaling seems to be spot on for my Fender system. Nice!
Rootable?: CPU-Z seems to indicate that it is already rooted, however SuperSU states that the su binary is occupied. Need to explore further.
Play Store apps: So far, so good. Only missing items in the store were things like Google Dialer, which would have been nice to have.
Android Auto: Not available in Play Store. Likely need to fake 720p screen.
Google Maps: Works great. No problems in my short test drive.
Waze: Works great. No problems that I saw.
Voice Search: Not installed by default. Install "Google" from Play Store. Unfortunately, internal Mic couldn't hear my voice in testing.
Bluetooth Call w/int mic: No tested yet.
Radio Signal: Strong signal, and easily locked to even faint stations.
Radio Audio Quality: Meh, it's analog OTA, so it sounds about as good as I would expect it to.
CPU Temp: According to Aida64, the CPU temperature idled around 50-60 Celsius, spiking to 74 during the benchmarks.
GPS Lock: GPS locked almost immediately.
What else should I test?
[SIZE="+1"]Pros[/SIZE]:
Solid build, with shallow design.
Easy to install.
Google Maps works great, as does Waze.
[SIZE="+1"]Cons[/SIZE]:
Very easy to accidentally click the capacitive bezel buttons. Can sometimes even detect a hover as a touch.
Internal Microphone only works with Bluetooth calling.
keep us updated. I am looking to buy something similar myself but been confused between this and another one which has a rockchip 3188 and TDA7850. you think this one is better over the rockchip and TDA7850? both are by bonroad I think.
Assuming both have 2GB of memory, I honestly feel like it would be difficult for the average user to tell the difference between the PX3, PX5, T3, and (assuming similar performance) the T8. Well, outside of benchmarks, or games.
I'll be more interested in how it handles power management, and things like audio quality.
I'm impressed that it comes right out and says that Bluetooth music is crap. Saves me some testing.
If possible, please add CPU(SOC) temperature test with the hardware probe (or at least finger touch), because right now situation with CPU temperature is unclear, and software tools show only battery (?!) temperature. T3 was known to be quite hot and sometimes require a heatsink.
BTW, there are 3 different non-compatible versions of T3 hardware and software, Default one (sleep mode added later and not so good), New one (firmware is a development of R16 branch), and K2001 (usually very compact and cheaper). Allwinner T8 head units continue and develop the same firmware branch - V9.x.x on T8, V8.x.x on T3 New (V8.3.x with Android 7.1) and V7.x.x on R16. Most tips and tricks from T3 (new one) will work on T8.
Could you tell me how to root this Headunit? thanks
Updated the first post with my initial reactions to the head unit. I'll upload pictures to the thread later this evening. So far, it seems like a really nice unit, but with a few drawbacks.
Main complaints:
Electrical noise in speakers: Could be due to benchmark stresses. I will watch this and report back.
No deep sleep: Should be able to be fixed with software update.
Volume scaling: May be addressed via a control app, or software update.
Acidental "BACK" clicks: Back button is in a terrible place, and super sensitive. Need to map to long press.
Otherwise, it's a very nice head unit so far. More info as I have it.
bazanovv said:
If possible, please add CPU(SOC) temperature test with the hardware probe (or at least finger touch), because right now situation with CPU temperature is unclear, and software tools show only battery (?!) temperature. T3 was known to be quite hot and sometimes require a heatsink.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, the unit seems to report temperature for the CPU, and the battery (makes no sense), which makes it a little easier. In my testing CPU was idling around 50C, and sitting between 65-75C during benchmarking, and stress testing. Now, to be fair, it's fairly cool here at the moment (50F/10C), so on a hot day, that could spike way up.
I myself own one of these t8 units. Mines from pumpkin and at the start I originally thought it was a PX5.
It blows my old rk3188 out of the water when it comes to performance the only downside is the lack of android support
bazanovv said:
If possible, please add CPU(SOC) temperature test with the hardware probe (or at least finger touch), because right now situation with CPU temperature is unclear, and software tools show only battery (?!) temperature. T3 was known to be quite hot and sometimes require a heatsink.
BTW, there are 3 different non-compatible versions of T3 hardware and software, Default one (sleep mode added later and not so good), New one (firmware is a development of R16 branch), and K2001 (usually very compact and cheaper). Allwinner T8 head units continue and develop the same firmware branch - V9.x.x on T8, V8.x.x on T3 New (V8.3.x with Android 7.1) and V7.x.x on R16. Most tips and tricks from T3 (new one) will work on T8.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hal752 said:
I myself own one of these t8 units. Mines from pumpkin and at the start I originally thought it was a PX5.
It blows my old rk3188 out of the water when it comes to performance the only downside is the lack of android support
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What Android support is it missing? Do you mean as far as updates? Definitely not updated as often as the Dasaita PX5 systems, but that is actually kinda a blessing to be honest. I found that I would get the system where I wanted it, and it would be time to update, and I'd be back spending an hour in my car fussing with my radio. That said, previous models (R16, T3) have had a fair number of OS updates.
I'll honestly be happy if I can get this system to the point where I can "set it and forget it". So far it looks promising.
I fixed the volume scaling problem, and the fix persists through reboots. Not sure exactly which fix worked, so I'll need to reset it and isolate which tweak fixed things. I think my signal noise is from a power line sitting too close to a speaker wire somewhere in the harness. I'll pull the unit and redo the wiring this weekend, which should hopefully fix the noise issue.
Need to figure out how to remap the back button. The panel tool is fairly opaque. Any tips are appreciated!
Rottgrub said:
Need to figure out how to remap the back button.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do manual from T3 version work? I can't check, if this manual actually works, because I don't have this HU.
Settings-Car settings-Extra settings-Touch area keys
In POSITION menu select place (LEFT, RIGHT, TOP, BOTTOM), where sensor buttons are located;
Continue setting like on this video.
Af far as I understand, at first click Clear in the bottom right corner, then click Set in bottom left corner. Select any free cell starting from top left, select key function, press sensor key - stored cell should change it's color. Continue, until all sensor keys set. Click Set in bottom left corner again. Check, if buttons working; if not - set them again. Use USB mouse (right mouse button = back) if something goes wrong.
bazanovv said:
Do manual from T3 version work? I can't check, if this manual actually works, because I don't have this HU.
Settings-Car settings-Extra settings-Touch area keys
In POSITION menu select place (LEFT, RIGHT, TOP, BOTTOM), where sensor buttons are located;
Continue setting like on this video.
Af far as I understand, at first click Clear in the bottom right corner, then click Set in bottom left corner. Select any free cell starting from top left, select key function, press sensor key - stored cell should change it's color. Continue, until all sensor keys set. Click Set in bottom left corner again. Check, if buttons working; if not - set them again. Use USB mouse (right mouse button = back) if something goes wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually read these, and watched the video before trying last time, but no luck. I think the new panel/button mapping tool may work a little differently (or maybe I just don't get it, which is possible). Start and Clear worked as expected, but when selecting a cell, I didn't get any popup windows asking for short/long press, and no list of actions. If I clicked the button I wanted to map, it would assign the button as expected, but only to the function that was already listed in the cell. I had no way of mapping a long press action that I could find. I'll keep playing with it, and report back if I have any more luck.
Rottgrub said:
I'll keep playing with it, and report back if I have any more luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, have a good luck! As far as I understand, it is very important to select correct buttons block side location on the first step, before menu with the cells appear.
bazanovv said:
Ok, have a good luck! As far as I understand, it is very important to select correct buttons block side location on the first step, before menu with the cells appear.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are exactly correct. Thank you for the help! I just tried again, and was able to properly map my panel buttons. The trick is to select to primary action you want first if it's already present in a cell. If not, select "Reserved" and a menu will appear to select the primary action. Once that is selected, choose the hardware key to map. Then long press the cell to choose a new "Press", "Long Press", or "Very Long Press" action.
Unfortunately, there is no NULL action that I could find to leave the primary action unmapped, while letting me map a long press. I settled for mapping the primary action to "Mute" for the HOME and BACK buttons. That way I don't lose my application if I touch something near the bottom of the screen.
Youmecity 10 Inch Universal 2 din Android 7.1
Hello
I also bought a T8 unit and I think it is a product conforming to this thread.
But google voice input can not be used(bt hands free call is ok).
I could use it on dasaita PX5 and I have average knowledge of android.
If you have a special trick to use voice input please tell me.
warata said:
Hello
I also bought a T8 unit and I think it is a product conforming to this thread.
But google voice input can not be used(bt hands free call is ok).
I could use it on dasaita PX5 and I have average knowledge of android.
If you have a special trick to use voice input please tell me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you simply can't activate the "voice control" icons, you probably need to install the "Google" package from the play store. This isn't included with the base firmware, at least on my unit. Issue I'm having is that Voice Search isn't hearing my voice, which may just be a permission issue, addressable in Setting/Apps/Google/Permissions. I need to dig into it more.
Let us know if that helps, and if you get it working, what you did. =) Good luck!
Rottgrub said:
Let us know if that helps, and if you get it working, what you did. =) Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your specific answer.I think that my question was not have enough information.
I have installed Google Apps and I giving him all authority given to him.
But he does not listen to anything.It does not react at all even if it repels parts of the physical microphone with fingers.
If it is not possible to use the telephone, I assume that the microphone is defective
and I will return it, but since the hands-free can be used, the microphone is not disconnected.
But car android is generally useless unless you can use Voice input.
Whether it can be settled by setting or not, I have to conclude within a few days whether the unit is defective.
Installing Google App was necessary even on PX5, but it was not particularly difficult.
So I wanted to know if there are any special settings in T8.
Thanks
As in XDA support. None of the custom ROMs work with my device. In regards to updates it's from pumpkin and there has being no news on a update for my device.
Mine was pretty much plug in and play. Apart from removing a few "Chinese" APKs and installing viper. The only issue I have had is that I can't for the life of me connect my obdeleven OBD2 device.
Even my microphone works although could be better. I'm able to send text messages using android auto and head unit reloaded without much error.
warata said:
But car android is generally useless unless you can use Voice input.
Whether it can be settled by setting or not, I have to conclude within a few days whether the unit is defective.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay, so yeah. Sounds like you are having the same issue I'm having. I agree that it's not a hardware problem. Just to verify, are you using the internal, or external mic? I'm using the internal one only.
I haven't put much time into playing with it yet, but I'll let you know if I can figure out how to get it working.
hal752 said:
As in XDA support. None of the custom ROMs work with my device. In regards to updates it's from pumpkin and there has being no news on a update for my device.
Mine was pretty much plug in and play. Apart from removing a few "Chinese" APKs and installing viper. The only issue I have had is that I can't for the life of me connect my obdeleven OBD2 device.
Even my microphone works although could be better. I'm able to send text messages using android auto and head unit reloaded without much error.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What system and MCU version is your system running? If I hang onto this unit, I will be looking into making a custom ROM for it. (No promises)
Rottgrub said:
Okay, so yeah. Sounds like you are having the same issue I'm having. I agree that it's not a hardware problem. Just to verify, are you using the internal, or external mic? I'm using the internal one only.
I haven't put much time into playing with it yet, but I'll let you know if I can figure out how to get it working.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have same issue??I thought that It was almost defective...
I tried an external microphone, but It didn't work my own dynamic microphone.
I think that this product uses a condenser microphone.
I ordered the corresponding microphone with aliexpress, but it will be two weeks after arrival.

New Pumpkin 7.1 Nougat 2GB Ram, 32GB Rom and Fast-Boot Model AS0272B

I just picked up new Pumpkin stereo and I'm pretty excited as it is my first true Android powered car stereo. I have been looking at them for a long time and the biggest hesitation that I had was the complaints that I had heard of slow start-up times. I have been looking around at stereo options for my 2003 Silverado recently, and noticed that all of the higher end name brands were just so expensive. And they are only now just starting to get the Android Auto integration. That led me to look and see if there were any new improvements to the true Android stereos. Then I came across this Pumpkin unit that had every option that I was looking for; HD capacitive touch screen, Steering wheel integration, Bluetooth 4.0, phone mirroring or Google Navigation (this has both), and a rear backup camera input.
I really haven't had a lot of time to play around with the head unit, but so far I'm very impressed. One of the things that I was concerned about was having something that wouldn't be easy to navigate for my wife. I installed last night and when she got in my truck this morning, she was very impressed. I really like the UI that it comes with stock. Some of the icons are locked, but I'm ok with that. There are a ton of great pre-loaded apps such as Torque, and the Navigation app that came standard is Google Maps. Once I get to play around with it more I may make a video of the operation to help others make a decision. The unit is just as advertised for the quick boot up times. When I first booted up the unit it took only about 15 seconds and then every time after that it comes on almost instantly playing my music.
I'm hoping to finish up the install this weekend and play around with the placement of the wi-fi and GPS antenna's. I also want to wire up the backup camera and get that functioning. I will keep this updated as I progress through installing the rest of the components.
Unboxing it:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Couple installed pics. I will get some better ones this week.
Thanks,
Ryan
Hi, your pumpkin looks just like the one I bought and installed last week but mine came with android 6.
Could you please post a pic of your about device screen under settings. Just wondering if the hardware is the same?
Cheers
jimsey said:
Hi, your pumpkin looks just like the one I bought and installed last week but mine came with android 6.
Could you please post a pic of your about device screen under settings. Just wondering if the hardware is the same?
Cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let me know if this is what you were looking for:
I finished up the physical install of the radio last night. My factory truck harness to the original stereo didn't have a dimmer light or switched 12v+ so I added those pins to the truck side of my harness so that I didn't have to have any extra wires to unplug if/when I ever need to pull mine out.
Home screen:
Radio:
It's been a few days now and I am very happy with the radio overall. There are two quirks that may just be user error, but sometimes the radio app doesn't want to stay open and will close, but the music still plays? If I open it up and push another button it will stay on though? The other is I have a fairly significant amount of static when making a bluetooth phone call? Maybe I am getting some sort of interference with the radio antenna or something? Otherwise it has been smooth sailing and I'm mad I didn't do this sooner! I'm hoping to get my backup camera hooked up this weekend and then the install is complete.
Looks good, you've got a px3 processor which is different to my px5 and explains why you've got a newer version of android to mine even though the radios look identical on the outside.
Not sure about the static, they do have their quirks but there's not much that people on here have xperienced and fixed.
Pumpkins own forum also has good support from pumpkin staff.
I'm not too familiar with the hardware, but hopefully my PX3 is a good processor. That's a great tip on the Pumpkin forum. Maybe I will search over there to see if I can find out why I am getting the static.
Looking at one of these units. I notice it doesn't have a normal wiring harness and has RCA type ends on the wires. Am I correct?
Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
I picked up one too. Not this exact model but it is the Octacore 7.1.2 version and 6.2" screen. You def have a newer build version than mine.
Processor Type - UltraOcta-T8
Android Version - 7.1.2
MCU Version - T8.3.19-11-00-453101-171129-UNIVERSAL
System Version - V9.2.2_20180120.164839_KED3-5
DVD Version - 2.13.15-860MC-160106
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am having problems with the Radio not changing frequency and not showing RDS on all my stations. Old headunit did. Also my fast bootup doesn't work all the time. Pumpkin gave me a new version to download and install, but I haven't done that just yet.
Pimptorious said:
Looking at one of these units. I notice it doesn't have a normal wiring harness and has RCA type ends on the wires. Am I correct?
Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are the RCA connections for back up cameras, and a bunch of other inputs, but there is also the regular unterminated ends that you have to solder to your existing radio or radio harness adapter. They called it an ISO plug in my instructions and I ended up cutting that off to splice on the adapter for my truck.
L-ight said:
I picked up one too. Not this exact model but it is the Octacore 7.1.2 version and 6.2" screen. You def have a newer build version than mine.
I am having problems with the Radio not changing frequency and not showing RDS on all my stations. Old headunit did. Also my fast bootup doesn't work all the time. Pumpkin gave me a new version to download and install, but I haven't done that just yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not very savvy with the technical side of the radio for installing different versions, but I haven't had any issues with mine. The only issue I have with RDS is that when I have a weaker radio signal it will spell out gibberish, but that is understandable given the weak signal. Other than than it works perfectly and tells me the artist and song that is playing, or the radio station. As for the fast boot not working, did you hook your wires up properly to switched 12v+, constant 12v+ and ground? Make sure those connections are rock solid. I soldered all of my connections and heat shrink to protect them.
I was googling these updated units as I have an older Pyle PLDNANDVR695 and it's just driving me nuts with how slow it is and the issues I have. I came across Pumpkins new unit that is an octa-core with 8.0 (https://www.autopumpkin.com/pumpkin...screen-octa-core-with-gps-navi-bluetooth.html)
Has anyone tried this one yet? The specs look great... I realize there will always be issues with these types of head units and I really want to upgrade from my current unit but I also don't want to have a bunch of new issues to deal with.
JLaCroix said:
I was googling these updated units as I have an older Pyle PLDNANDVR695 and it's just driving me nuts with how slow it is and the issues I have. I came across Pumpkins new unit that is an octa-core with 8.0 (https://www.autopumpkin.com/pumpkin...screen-octa-core-with-gps-navi-bluetooth.html)
Has anyone tried this one yet? The specs look great... I realize there will always be issues with these types of head units and I really want to upgrade from my current unit but I also don't want to have a bunch of new issues to deal with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually have the 7.1 unit I just bought last week. I am going to return it and get this one. Just hoping it gets on Amazon soon as my return window closes March 2nd. So far the headunit has been good. I did have to update the MCU which fixed the buggy radio. Now it works well. I also thought I purchased a fast boot unit. I did not. So that is another reason I am returning it. Takes around 25 seconds to boot. This new one takes 1 second supposedly which is awesome!
I have an aftermarket system hooked up to it as well and it sounds fine. The presets aren't bad either. I tested the headunit's clipping volume on my O-scope and I was able to turn it up to max volume without the unit clipping. Impressive if you ask me. The rule most go by is 75% max volume then do all your tuning from there.
I got rid of the crappy factory look and downloaded Nova Launcher that I use on my phone. I will be doing the same with the new unit. Though one thing is when you add a new launcher you can't add a radio widget like the factory one has. I just bypass this by hitting the "band" key on the left.
L-ight said:
I actually have the 7.1 unit I just bought last week. I am going to return it and get this one. Just hoping it gets on Amazon soon as my return window closes March 2nd. So far the headunit has been good. I did have to update the MCU which fixed the buggy radio. Now it works well. I also thought I purchased a fast boot unit. I did not. So that is another reason I am returning it. Takes around 25 seconds to boot. This new one takes 1 second supposedly which is awesome!
I have an aftermarket system hooked up to it as well and it sounds fine. The presets aren't bad either. I tested the headunit's clipping volume on my O-scope and I was able to turn it up to max volume without the unit clipping. Impressive if you ask me. The rule most go by is 75% max volume then do all your tuning from there.
I got rid of the crappy factory look and downloaded Nova Launcher that I use on my phone. I will be doing the same with the new unit. Though one thing is when you add a new launcher you can't add a radio widget like the factory one has. I just bypass this by hitting the "band" key on the left.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, thanks for the response! A lot of the issues I have with the Pyle aren't necessarily show stoppers, but they are absolutely maddening to me. For instance, it always delay initiates my amp by like 3 seconds... I have all my fronts through two crossovers into to a JL HD600 and I have the rears hooked into the HU directly; music starts playing and then the amp kicks in with the front speakers. Could be my issue but I've had a setup like this before on other headunits and it was never an issue. Also the auto-dimming is broken and manually changing it has this really weird issue where you change it, it switches back almost immediately and you have about a 1 second window to change it again... it's almost like it has a Min & Max value of brightness and it just jumps back and forth. Insanelyyyyyyyyyy annoying at night time as you're trying to turn it down and it will just go super bright and blind the piss out of me.
Anyways, I am pretty close to wanting to order this unit anyways and just try it out. The specs look fantastic and hopefully it's just a generally better experience than what I'm having now. The Pyle was my first android based unit and overall it's been cool, I just want a bit more out of it and expect a better experience overall.
JLaCroix said:
Cool, thanks for the response! A lot of the issues I have with the Pyle aren't necessarily show stoppers, but they are absolutely maddening to me. For instance, it always delay initiates my amp by like 3 seconds... I have all my fronts through two crossovers into to a JL HD600 and I have the rears hooked into the HU directly; music starts playing and then the amp kicks in with the front speakers. Could be my issue but I've had a setup like this before on other headunits and it was never an issue. Also the auto-dimming is broken and manually changing it has this really weird issue where you change it, it switches back almost immediately and you have about a 1 second window to change it again... it's almost like it has a Min & Max value of brightness and it just jumps back and forth. Insanelyyyyyyyyyy annoying at night time as you're trying to turn it down and it will just go super bright and blind the piss out of me.
Anyways, I am pretty close to wanting to order this unit anyways and just try it out. The specs look fantastic and hopefully it's just a generally better experience than what I'm having now. The Pyle was my first android based unit and overall it's been cool, I just want a bit more out of it and expect a better experience overall.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sucks about the delayed amp. I have my remote wire from my two amps spliced into the red (acc) on the head unit which then goes into the pac harness for my truck. Soon as I turn my ignition on it powers up my amps. Though I am not sure if yours boots up quick or not, but maybe mine taking close to 30 seconds to boot my amps have time to turn on. For now I have changed the settings to where the headunit powers down after 10 mins when ignition is turned off. This allows for a quick start up of less than 5 seconds. Obviously this is for quick stops like the store or something. Overnight it is of course a cold boot.
The dimming on my is not auto either. I didn''t hook those wires up as it was a bit confusing which ones were the dimmers. Though the volume knob is actually the dimmer as well. You press it in and it goes from Bright, Dark, Off. I can adjust it more by pulling the system settings up, but the dark setting is perfectly fine at night.
I really think you'll be pleased with this unit. I am impressed by my current one and I have used nothing but top of the line Kenwood units for the past decade. I wanted more freedom in my headunit so I took a plunge at the low cost of these. Of course there will always be pros and cons. I also love using my phone as the hotspot and playing Spotify/etc from my headunit. Of course I did this with my old units but that was through BT. No need for BT now. I also don't care to have BT calling either.
L-ight said:
That sucks about the delayed amp. I have my remote wire from my two amps spliced into the red (acc) on the head unit which then goes into the pac harness for my truck. Soon as I turn my ignition on it powers up my amps. Though I am not sure if yours boots up quick or not, but maybe mine taking close to 30 seconds to boot my amps have time to turn on. For now I have changed the settings to where the headunit powers down after 10 mins when ignition is turned off. This allows for a quick start up of less than 5 seconds. Obviously this is for quick stops like the store or something. Overnight it is of course a cold boot.
The dimming on my is not auto either. I didn''t hook those wires up as it was a bit confusing which ones were the dimmers. Though the volume knob is actually the dimmer as well. You press it in and it goes from Bright, Dark, Off. I can adjust it more by pulling the system settings up, but the dark setting is perfectly fine at night.
I really think you'll be pleased with this unit. I am impressed by my current one and I have used nothing but top of the line Kenwood units for the past decade. I wanted more freedom in my headunit so I took a plunge at the low cost of these. Of course there will always be pros and cons. I also love using my phone as the hotspot and playing Spotify/etc from my headunit. Of course I did this with my old units but that was through BT. No need for BT now. I also don't care to have BT calling either.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I like your idea a lot about splicing the remote turn-on into the ignition on. I think my amp boots pretty quick but I will still plan to do what you've already done. That way it can also make sure that the remote turn on isn't losing connectivity and causing this 3s timeout. As I mentioned before, it's really weird because it does it for every song or transition of apps... insanely annoying.
The other question I had is how did you set yours to do remote shutoff after 10 minutes? One thing I haven't been able to do is this... not sure if my Porsche supports it or if I need to find an alternative power source that has this function built into it that keeps power for X# of minutes after the ignition is shut off.
I'm most likely going to order this updated unit this week... the only downside is I'm impatient when it comes to buying/shipping. I checked Amazon, nothing. with the updated unit There is an EBay store but it's coming from Hong Kong as well so it still has ~2-3 week delivery. I will likely order directly from Pumpkin because I want to order some of the add-on products directly from them (OBD2 and the 3/4G wifi dongle, which I'm super excited for since I have a spare, free sim).
JLaCroix said:
I like your idea a lot about splicing the remote turn-on into the ignition on. I think my amp boots pretty quick but I will still plan to do what you've already done. That way it can also make sure that the remote turn on isn't losing connectivity and causing this 3s timeout. As I mentioned before, it's really weird because it does it for every song or transition of apps... insanely annoying.
The other question I had is how did you set yours to do remote shutoff after 10 minutes? One thing I haven't been able to do is this... not sure if my Porsche supports it or if I need to find an alternative power source that has this function built into it that keeps power for X# of minutes after the ignition is shut off.
I'm most likely going to order this updated unit this week... the only downside is I'm impatient when it comes to buying/shipping. I checked Amazon, nothing. with the updated unit There is an EBay store but it's coming from Hong Kong as well so it still has ~2-3 week delivery. I will likely order directly from Pumpkin because I want to order some of the add-on products directly from them (OBD2 and the 3/4G wifi dongle, which I'm super excited for since I have a spare, free sim).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am not sure about the Joying units, but I would think they are pretty similar to the Pumpkin when it comes to wiring an amp(s). Usually you have a blue/white for your remote off the headunit. Though I do not recall seeing one on these. Also the subout is usually two rcas and not just one. So I had to buy a Y adapter to plug my sub into it.
You go into settings, then car settings and there is an option to turn on the option. It gives you 10 mins, 30 mins or 1 hour shutoff. It actually puts it into sleep mode. This allows the screen to turn off and not display while you are out of your vehicle for potential thieves. Hopefully I won't need to use this on the new unit.
Yes I have been trying to get ahold of Pumpkin on when they will be releasing the new unit on Amazon. I get 5% cashback and Amazon is just easier to deal with. As I mentioned before I hope they get added before March 2nd which is the last day for my return window on my current head unit. Do you not have a hotspot on your phone? Verizon is what I have and I have the unlimited plan so using Hotspot is free. I thought about grabbing the 3g/4g dongle but I didn't trust it. Testing the hotspot proved to me that I don't need the dongle. I also use the OBD2 BT device to track my vehicles sensors/gauges. Works well. Even though the headunit comes with Torque Pro already installed. I ended up having problems with that one. So I uninstalled it, purchased from App store and it ended up fixing all my problems. $5 is not bad for the app either.
Another thing I would like to add is the GPS. I am not sure if it is because I have the antenna inside the dash or what, but it tends to skip and not follow me very precisely like our phones do. I think I need to relocate the GPS antenna outside the dash and have it sit at the bottom of the windshield out of site. This is something I will test when I get my new unit.
I also just saw you posted on the Pumpkin forum, just responded to yours on there!
JLaCroix said:
I also just saw you posted on the Pumpkin forum, just responded to yours on there!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm...I do not see any posts on that board since yesterday. Can you send me a direct link to the post please?
L-ight said:
Hmm...I do not see any posts on that board since yesterday. Can you send me a direct link to the post please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Apparently mine didn't post correctly, but basically was saying I also didn't see any Amazon store but found one on Ebay... but unfortunately it's still coming from Hong Kong.
---------- Post added at 12:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:54 PM ----------
Also just tried to post again, I realized that it has to be approved by a moderator before being allowed to show up...
JLaCroix said:
Apparently mine didn't post correctly, but basically was saying I also didn't see any Amazon store but found one on Ebay... but unfortunately it's still coming from Hong Kong.
---------- Post added at 12:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:54 PM ----------
Also just tried to post again, I realized that it has to be approved by a moderator before being allowed to show up...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea I fotgot about that. My first couple posts needed to be approved. Though they always responded within a day. They have replied back at all and it is making me impatient. I see they have one on Amazon now https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079N9XDFT/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ANVW61FB1ZGIJ&psc=1 but I am not paying $350 for it when it was $310 on their actual site.
L-ight said:
Yea I fotgot about that. My first couple posts needed to be approved. Though they always responded within a day. They have replied back at all and it is making me impatient. I see they have one on Amazon now https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079N9XDFT/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ANVW61FB1ZGIJ&psc=1 but I am not paying $350 for it when it was $310 on their actual site.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the link. I agree with you, ALTHOUGH on the same point I could receive it earlier and return it if there are any issues.

Junsun V1 Android 9.0 2G+32G DSP

Hello from a new member.
Junsun V1 Android 9.0 2G+32G DSP
Model: 8227L
Android Version 9
Kernel Version: 3.18.79 (gcc version 6.3.1 20170404 (Linaro GCC 6.3-2017.05))
Build number: full_8277L_demo-userbug 9 011019 1550113051 userdebug
Custom build: version alps-mp-04.mp5
MCU : TS907.190518(H)
(cannot ling screenshots of specs in the site?)
I have a weird unsolvable problem with my Junsun V1 Android 9.0 2G+32G DSP which I bought to replace my old 7" unit.
When I fitted in my car, I use the RCA outputs connection cable driving a processor and then the amps, it would make a loud thumping noise through the system whenever I changed mode on the screen (see Youtube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHNONRLvbPU). It does this on the bench test as well.
Sound through the normal speaker outputs is clear and without any problems.
On investigation with a multi meter, I found that every time I changed mode, the power Amp Cont. supply would switch on and off, thereby creating the thump through the speakers. Even if I use the antenna power supply which is constant even with mode change, it still thumps, as RCA outputs convey the on/off thump of the AMP Cont through them.
After referring this problem to the seller, he said it was a mainboard problem, and I returned the unit which he exchanged for a new unit. However, the new unit has exactly the same problem ( it was a new unit, as I made sure of certain markings on the returned unit).
Seller sent me a Software Update, which did no changes at all!
The seller then finally informed me that the AV cable adapter RCA out and Amp. Cont. connections are not compatible with this unit, software problem, even though they give the AV connector together with the unit!
Has anybody had a similar problem with a similar unit?
I have tried changing various parameters in the factory settings with no luck.
Could it be a simple setting adjustment with the unit which not even the seller can help with, as in the end I will have to return the unit.
I could use a high low converter which ultimately degrades sound further.
Would appreciate any input. thanks.
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"lightbox_close": "Close",
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"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
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[/IMG]
specs
:good:
Firmware update
I have the firmware update for this Junsun V1 2020 unit as well if anyone needs.
I’ve got the same branded unit, 2gb+32gb Junsun V1. on my car the antenna power is retained from the original head unit and I’m not using amps at the moment so never tested the outputs on mine to compare.
Firstly I would try wiring the remote wire from the amp to a permanent 12v feed to see if the thump still happens.
If it goes away it’s up to you whether you want to send it back as it’s clearly not “right”, personally I’d rather keep it and try and find a switched live in your car to power the amp remote instead, or use the amp output from the Junsun with a relay rather than connecting to the amps directly.
britain4 said:
I’ve got the same branded unit, 2gb+32gb Junsun V1. on my car the antenna power is retained from the original head unit and I’m not using amps at the moment so never tested the outputs on mine to compare.
Firstly I would try wiring the remote wire from the amp to a permanent 12v feed to see if the thump still happens.
If it goes away it’s up to you whether you want to send it back as it’s clearly not “right”, personally I’d rather keep it and try and find a switched live in your car to power the amp remote instead, or use the amp output from the Junsun with a relay rather than connecting to the amps directly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello
Have tried that. Wherever you give remote power for the amps from, the thump unfortunately is carried through the RCA's from inside the unit from the mode change. It causes an on/ off in the Amp Cont power, and the RCA's out pick it up from the mainboard of the unit. Have thought of maybe sourcing the RCA outputs directly on the board before they reach the TDA7851L amp, but don't want to dive that deep yet
Not Android Auto, requested thread moved to Android head units.
dranias said:
Hello
Have tried that. Wherever you give remote power for the amps from, the thump unfortunately is carried through the RCA's from inside the unit from the mode change. It causes an on/ off in the Amp Cont power, and the RCA's out pick it up from the mainboard of the unit. Have thought of maybe sourcing the RCA outputs directly on the board before they reach the TDA7851L amp, but don't want to dive that deep yet
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No I don’t think I’d start digging that deep into the head unit just in case!
If it was mine the next thing I’d be trying is a ground loop isolator - would eliminate any grounding issues and also block any DC causing this.
I’m assuming the issue wasn’t present with your old head unit and only with the new one?
britain4 said:
No I don’t think I’d start digging that deep into the head unit just in case!
If it was mine the next thing I’d be trying is a ground loop isolator - would eliminate any grounding issues and also block any DC causing this.
I’m assuming the issue wasn’t present with your old head unit and only with the new one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have tried a ground loop isolator as well, but problem is caused by mode switching within the unit from Radio-Video-Music etc. which switches off the Amp.Cont power momentarily, and this is picked up by the RCA output stage. Cannot explain it?
So, it is most likely firmware/software related.
There is no noise at all when powering the speakers normally through the speaker outputs of the unit.
The 7' was a Hizpo and no problems at all for 3 years. The 9" model from Junsun, and the new replacement they sent have both the same problem.
Thanks
Firmware update
dranias said:
I have the firmware update for this Junsun V1 2020 unit as well if anyone needs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, can you send me the new firmware?
How can I see that is for my radio? same MCU?
Thx. for reply and sorry for my english.
dethearth said:
Hello, can you send me the new firmware?
How can I see that is for my radio? same MCU?
Thx. for reply and sorry for my english.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure if it will be the same, but just send me a message and I will give you the link and screenshots of my units MCU data. I cannot post external links on the forum yet, as am new member still.
Thanks
dranias said:
I have the firmware update for this Junsun V1 2020 unit as well if anyone needs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, can you share that firmware please?
I have problems with outside tempetarure showing, and hoping that update would solve this..
.......
marchnz said:
.......
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
MCU version: TS907.190518(H)
Not sure what is MTCx unit..
b_mindia said:
MCU version: TS907.190518(H)
Not sure what is MTCx unit..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See my screen shots same MCU and the firmware to download AT YOUR OWN RISK..
RCA out
So after many attempts to solve this problem, I soldered new RCA outputs before the TDA7851L amp inputs, and now I have crystal clear sound to my processor and amps. Could not find any other solution, and the unit is pretty good.
dranias said:
See my screen shots same MCU and the firmware to download AT YOUR OWN RISK..
Turns out i have exact same unit. All versions matches from the screenshots.
However, i had no problems with audio outputs. I have bought RCA connectors separately and have plugged external amp.
Sound quality is good.
Do you have any problems with outside temperature showing?
Mine is not showing when temperature is greater than 10C
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dranias said:
So after many attempts to solve this problem, I soldered new RCA outputs before the TDA7851L amp inputs, and now I have crystal clear sound to my processor and amps. Could not find any other solution, and the unit is pretty good.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a pretty cool solution, glad you got it working! Not sure why they didn't do this in the first place really, any negative effects you've noticed?
britain4 said:
This is a pretty cool solution, glad you got it working! Not sure why they didn't do this in the first place really, any negative effects you've noticed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, non at all. It actually has better sound than after the internal amp normal output.
b_mindia said:
dranias said:
See my screen shots same MCU and the firmware to download AT YOUR OWN RISK..
Turns out i have exact same unit. All versions matches from the screenshots.
However, i had no problems with audio outputs. I have bought RCA connectors separately and have plugged external amp.
Sound quality is good.
Do you have any problems with outside temperature showing?
Mine is not showing when temperature is greater than 10C
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you using Can Bus adapter on your car? I was thinking that may be the reason my RCA outputs don't work properly, as mine is non Can.
I remember reading on some other post the problem with the temperature, where they said you have to try different Can settings in the factory settings till you get the ideal choice. Not sure where I saw this post. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dranias said:
b_mindia said:
Are you using Can Bus adapter on your car? I was thinking that may be the reason my RCA outputs don't work properly, as mine is non Can.
I remember reading on some other post the problem with the temperature, where they said you have to try different Can settings in the factory settings till you get the ideal choice. Not sure where I saw this post. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it has all climate controls:
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/H2f86b59a553849b4a297f0de86826b35k.jpg
And adapter i have used for RCA:
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Ha47bf03d92c343cbbca88984369c5f4cE.jpg
Thanks, i will search the forum
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Looking for help with new iDoing PX6, Android 10, rk3399 hexacore

I've struck out when looking for fixes or help with this Android unit.
I have a few issues with it that I'm hoping people have solutions for.
Capacitive buttons don't illuminate anywhere except in the "Element" settings where you can choose what color they are. No matter if I set display mode to dark or light, the touch buttons don't ever illuminate. Not a huge deal, but I would like them to be lit up red to match my other lighting (2011 Subaru STI).
Auto shutdown after ACC power loss. There is a setting for this and it's on "auto" by default. Setting it to any setting doesn't have any affect. I would like it to be 5 or 6 seconds, but 30 seconds is the lowest. No matter what, the unit shuts down after about 2 seconds, which is manageable but not optimal for me since I have keyless push-button start and can't go from car running to accessory power without the car shutting off first. And the push-button start takes about 1 full second to register presses, so I have to get the timing just right if I want the HU to avoid shutdown.
Auto brightness does nothing. During the night, it's still at full brightness and using the white/light theme, not the black/dark theme. I figure I can use an app like Lux to control the actual brightness and just leave the theme set to dark. The HU does not have an orange illumination wire like all other stereos I've installed, so I figured it had a light sensor on it but it doesn't seem to. Not 100% sure yet.
I don't think there is a solution to this, but more like I'm curious if other Chinese Android units all do this: white-noise humming that you can hear when there is no music playing. Sure, I can't hear it when my car is running, but there is an audible hum in all speakers and subwoofer. I've minimized it by turning down the gain on my amplifier and subwoofer, but it's annoying and reminds me of cheap crappy stereos that don't filter out noise like this one, but this one is $360 and not cheap in my opinion. I'm curious if the Joying units do this when using the pre-outs specifically. This iDoing unit does not have an amp built in, despite it saying on the page that it has 4x50W output. Just looking at the output label, you can see there are zero speaker output wires.
Is there a way to do manual updates on this unit? When I search for MCU and System updates, it doesn't find any. I guess maybe it's up to date and there is no fix for the 3 problems I mentioned above.
I don't see any custom ROMs for this unit, just for the Android 9 PX6 units. I am going to check out some custom launchers since the iDoing launcher is super basic and uninspiring. Then again, I am mostly just inside of Apple Carplay the whole time, so the launcher doesn't matter much.
Thanks for any help!
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Really wished I would have seen this unit before I ordered and installed mine:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32950726060.html
It's got 8 cores, A75 and A55s, and has LTE modem built in, which I really wanted since I have an free phone line that I don't really use through T-Mobile. That unit also comes with adapters to use the OEM aux and USB ports in the center arm rest / storage, and I think a 20-pin harness to plug directly into the Subaru.
It probably has the same issues I'm talking about in my original post though, so I shouldn't fret....I guess. BUYERS REMORSE IS REAL, UGH!
So I just ordered the uis 7862, Even Idoing say the Px6 version is more "mature", but I opted for the faster proc and 4g and hoping the bugs get nailed soon. Keep in mind the 4g per IDoing will only work with t-mobile and i question even that(but am hopeful).
I went with IDoing for two main reasons. Primary reason being they are the only ones who support the HK audio in m 2018 WRX, and second they are extremely responsive to question(at least during sales). It took me 3 days to get a "No" from Joying, whereas I have spent nearly 2 hours on chat with Idoing. They also upgraded my shipping to DHL at no cost and am expecting my unit on friday(one week from order).
There is very little on the IDoings here apparently. Look forward to hearing how you are making out, with luck i'll have mine installed this weekend.
On your issues... Have you reached out to IDoing? They seem genuinely interested in helping.
Hoping your buzzing issue either is uncommon or irrelevant when using the canbus adapter to the HK.
I'm a verizon sub, but if it works with tmobile I may get a cricket wireless plan just for the car.
Any issues loading apps on the unit. I really just need fubo, spotify, a flac player, youtube, and waze, but loading other apps would be cool.
Idoing are a reseller of units. What hardware did you buy? Guess you might not know until it arrives, but the picture above lists an MTCE unit (mtcd)...wondering why this thread isn't in the MTCD section.
All of these chinese android grey boxes have bugs, they all copy each other and all make the same mistakes, some horrendously worse than others, but they're all buggy.
If you have started from low expectations, the unit might work out.
marchnz said:
Idoing are a reseller of units. What hardware did you buy? Guess you might not know until it arrives, but the picture above lists an MTCE unit (mtcd)...wondering why this thread isn't in the MTCD section.
All of these chinese android grey boxes have bugs, they all copy each other and all make the same mistakes, some horrendously worse than others, but they're all buggy.
If you have started from low expectations, the unit might work out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not the OP, but I ordered a UIS7862 unit specifically for the WRX.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32869243167.html
with the canbus for my HK system.
Based on reviews from other WRX owners and my discussions wit IDoing, my expectations are moderate. I know i'm taking a risk but the looks and fit of this for my car(again from reviews) is far superior to my kenwood double din and kit from crutchfield. Add to that I really hate AA and Mirrorlink.
After dealing with Wireless AA and mirrorlink issues with both my last and current car, it would need to be pretty buggy for it to not surpass that experience.
I'm pretty experienced with android development, so i can dig in and perhaps work around some of the issues, depending on what they are. Obviously if the Canbus is a failure then it's a non-starter.
I just want a hand full of apps to run and to be able to wifi tether to my phone, or use a tmobile sim if by some miracle the 4g modem works. If AA works that's a plus, but my whole reason to buying this is to avoid AA and of course the OEM look of this.
Again for the cost (less than the kit to wire my existing kenwood) like most people here, I'm willing to take the risk and if it doesn't work out then I go back to the kenwood and either return this or rip it apart as a science experiment.
with regards to the illumination of the keys, did you wire the Illum(orange wire)? also on mine at least you need to have the head lights on for the Illumination to work.
Did you ever fix the buzzing sound?
aznriceballman said:
Did you ever fix the buzzing sound?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, the subwoofer output was unusably bad and the hum at all times is only audible if I'm in the car with the engine not running and the stereo turns on with no music. And this is with my amp turned up pretty high. If I play radio at 50% volume, it will hurt my ears, so most people won't have this issue unless they also use an amp and turn it up fairly high.
I was using a USB-connected Carlink adapter for more reliable wireless Carplay, and it has slightly better resolution than the ZLink version. However, this Carlink adapter loses connection when I hit 24psi of boost in my car. It makes no sense. The adapter doesn't physically come out or anything, but the iDoing loses connection to it. I started using the ZLink again and it's working pretty well, though sometimes it's slow to connect and I can still tell the resolution is a little lower but it's still fine.

Audi S4 Headunit from AliExpress (Nunoo)?

During a recent sale at AliExpress, I ordered an Android headunit that replaces the factory screen for my 2016 B8.5 Audi. I ordered from the "Nunoo" store due to them listing a Snapdragon 665, and I ordered the supposed 8 GB/128 GB model for my MMI car.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805118631091.html
The unit hasn't shipped, so I messaged the store asking what's up and making sure that the order was going to fit my particular car (needed an Air Bag light relocation cable and AMI cable). I also asked to confirm it actually had the Qualcomm chip. The seller messaged me back saying that it would instead ship with a 8581 processor due to issues with the 665:
"The cpu will become 8581, because 665 CPU with some problem"
I'm getting sketchy vibes. Is there any hope that these units are worth messing with? Since ordering this, I've done some more reading around and see where Chinese sourced units often mis-report hardware, versions of OS's, etc.
I'm currently running an android box that attaches to the stock, non-touch screen in the car and allows for wireless Android Auto. It connects to Canbus and the MMI audio system, and is generally OK. It just has no touch screen, so I thought I'd upgrade. Should I bail on this order before they try to ship and look around for another seller?
Is there a Android head unit issues for dummies I should read to catch up on the state of these things?
Heya, the Listing only mentions an 8 Core Processor in the Pictures itself. It mentions the Snapdragon 665 Version down below but that is not selectable. I only know that because I myself just ordered one of those for my A6 4F MMI 2G. I had to search a bit for that Version. Just click a few different Listings on Aliexpress if you want that version.
I myself used an Android Head Unit in my Older A6 4B with a generic 8 Core CPU and that was more than enough Performance. it never had any lags or other things.
My Unit used an UIS7862, the 8581 seems to be a less powerful version of it. It could be Powerful enough to work without Lags but if you want to be really sure maybe search for reports of Headunits with the Spreadtrum UIS8581 CPU or try finding the Snapdragon 665 Version but be prepared that it's gonna be a whole lot more costly. And don't settle for the 625 Version, that is a pretty old CPU and all I could ever find about those Versions where lackluster performance and other issues
My unit finally shipped, so we'll see what I get.
Sweet, please report about that CPU Version Performance and stuff
It's sadly quite hard to find any Information about the Nunoo Headunits.
I'll try to keep this updated about the 665 Version that I just bought too
Well..... don't keep us in suspense.
Report back because i'm looking to buy a Nunoo 665 as well.
Sure, I put it in a couple of weeks ago. I did receive the 8581 chip version.
Some notes on use:
Install went about as expected, with the exception that to mount the included dash bezel that the screen attaches to over the old hole, you can only access two screws on the new mounting plate instead of 3...unless you want to drill into your original dash to pass the third screw. I doubt I do that as I want it to be reversable.
I did have problems with an ABS light. My car has the combo hazard button and passenger seat Air Bag light (to show if passenger AB is disabled due to not having enough weight in the seat). Once confirmed the wiring hookup configuration for the hazard button relocation harness, I was a bit frustrated that the light was still on. It might have eventually cleared itself after a few ignition cycles, but I really wanted to figure it out so I used my OBDEleven OBD2 scanner to reset the code (ABS ground fault). No problems since.
I haven't 100% put the dash back together yet because I'm going to try a GPS splitter cable to tie into the stock antenna instead of using the included one. I tried the included one with a GPS testing app and could never get acceptable signal strength vs what I could get on my phone, even if I ran the included receiver all the way to the top of the windshield. This probably is irrelevant as it doesn't affect Android Auto/CarPlay, which rely on the phone GPS. I'm just curious about the built in navigation and it wasn't a bunch to spend to try out. Once that comes in, I'll put the main dash bezel back in the car. If it doesn't work, that's not a deal breaker. Was just curious if I could improve things. If it does work, I don't know why this wouldn't really be the included option vs a whole receiver. (BTW, if anybody else goes this route, get the right angle SMA connector. The straight one won't fit in the space available.) https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...st_main.5.1c3518024jcmmd&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Wireless connection is iffy at times. Sometimes it's great, sometimes I can watch the bluetooth connect on my phone then try to hand off to wifi for Android Auto and it will just cycle the wifi connection to the head unit over and over. Other times it works right away and stay stable. Can't figure out if there's something that can resolve this. Still playing around. Wired Android Auto is fine. According to the seller, I have the latest software and Zlink versions. Is there a way to update Zlink OTA if a new version becomes available? I can go into the settings and check and it says I'm up to date, but just wonder if that's possible in the future. I've not done a ton of research, but what I have says Zlink licensing might be weird. This inconsistency is my biggest annoyance with the unit.
Unlike my old unit that just tapped into the factory screen, I can't long press the steering wheel phone button to activate the assistant. That's annoying. Have to do verbal commands only or use the touch screen button. Not the end of the world, I just got used to using the hard button.
Just like my other unit, the Audi console volume knob allows you to skip forward and back (by pushing sideways on the knob) just like the stock MMI, however, pushing it down only mutes audio. It does not behave like the MMI and pause streaming audio. So whatever you're listening to plays in the background during the mute. Annoying for podcasts and books. You can touch the screen, but having that hard button work would be nice.
This unit tries to emulate the HVAC temp changes that happen on the stock interface. Audi shows whichever side of the car is turning up or down the temp and what the setting is on the screen. However, this unit just puts up a graphic that instead of the temp shows "HI". So half done UI. My old unit had no HVAC interface at all when in Android mode.
I've still got the protective film on the screen right now until I take it back off to put in the stock bezel, but I could do with a bit brighter screen. It's not unreadable, but 20% brighter would be nice for sunny days.
Just like the old box I had for Android Auto, this one doesn't change the day/night mode on maps. You have to manually set it to dark or night if you want it to change depending on lighting conditions. At least it's easier to access in the menu now that I have a touch screen.
I logged into my Google account on the stock Android part of the unit to install a couple of apps (GPS tester, etc.). Somehow the thing deleted ALL my google contacts when the account synced up. I restored them from trash and could see the device that did it, so I know it's this unit. It was fine for a few days, then did it again. Might be when I connect to wifi at home to go to the Play store that it does it. Probably a setting to turn off sync, but I haven't looked into it yet.
It currently mutes Android Auto if I switch to one of the stock screen views except I think the backup camera. I think that it initially did it on the camera, but there's a setting to change that. I just need to find that for if I look at one of the other screens like drive mode.
Overall, the navigation speed is good enough. If I can get the auto-connect wifi cycling resolved, I'll feel a lot better. Would I buy this unit again? I might try one of the other brands honestly. Just because this one feels ALMOST there, but just cheaped out a bit on processor and screen. But if you get a good deal, it's totally functional with a few quirks.
The other brand I was considering seems to have more sales. That is Coika. Who knows if they're really the same thing from the same factory. Wouldn't be surprised, but it would be good to compare back to back. I'm just not going to do it Either of these options are half as expensive as RSNAV or some of the other more Audi forum prominent brands.
That in depth enough?
Conveniently the GPS cable arrived today that allowed me to tap into the car's GPS antenna. Big win if you ever want to use the built in navigation. Works great, although the cable I ordered is a bit tight. Now I can pull out the other GPS antenna that I had routed behind the glove box to go up the A pillar.
While installing, I googled B8.5 MMI GPS hookups to make sure I had the right cable off the back of the MMI unit. Apparently I wasn't exactly an original thinker, at RSNAV already offered these cables. This is the way to go and the AliExpress sellers should 100% include these instead of the full antenna that you have to mount somewhere.
Audi Original GPS Antenna Splitter Cable for S2, S3, S4
Audi Original GPS Antenna Splitter Cable for RSNAV S2, S3, S4 Android system on Audi Vehicles with Audi Navigation System only. - Best reception of GPS signal for your RSNAV S2,S3, S4 Android system - GPS hot start, super faster time sync - Work both for Audi MMI system and S2, S3, S4, This is...
rsnav.com
*I have not tested the stock nav yet, but I never use that anyway. I'll try to remember to look to confirm that's still working. Might be some kind of time interface into the car that it grabs from GPS, so it might still be important. I'll do it before I reinstall the dash. I just wired it enough to verify via the GPS testing app that it was better than the included antenna (it was).
Thank you Andy, much more detail than i expected.
Really appreciate the quick writeup esp the notes on the gps issue and getting a splitter.
Andy S said:
This probably is irrelevant as it doesn't affect Android Auto/CarPlay, which rely on the phone GPS. I'm just curious about the built in navigation and it wasn't a bunch to spend to try out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great review and very interesting because I'm looking at getting the same car. Just a small point, Android Auto does in fact use the car's GPS where possible. Waze uses the phone GPS but Google Maps and Sygic can use the car's GPS, for example.
Cutprods said:
Great review and very interesting because I'm looking at getting the same car. Just a small point, Android Auto does in fact use the car's GPS where possible. Waze uses the phone GPS but Google Maps and Sygic can use the car's GPS, for example.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt it would in this case, as Zlink as I understand it is kind of a hack to make AA work. On a truly integrated solution, I'm sure you are right.
Andy S said:
I doubt it would in this case, as Zlink as I understand it is kind of a hack to make AA work. On a truly integrated solution, I'm sure you are right.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Works with the Headunit Reloaded app, that I use on my older PX5. I don't know if you can use that on your new HU? Zlink and Easy Connection never worked well for me.
Cutprods said:
Works with the Headunit Reloaded app, that I use on my older PX5. I don't know if you can use that on your new HU? Zlink and Easy Connection never worked well for me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I might try it to see if it will solve my wireless issue. This is my first real Android head unit other than the pass through box I used before that isn't really a head unit. Is there a best way to install? Just from the Play store?
Heya, sorry I completely forgot to post about my Qualcomm 665 8/128GB Unit that I bought after putting it in.
Here's my thoughts:
Short TL;DR seems to be: Don't buy Nuuno or the other brands, according to BMW Forums get a Navifly Unit. (They seem to cost as much as the Nunoo or others but give far better configurability thanks to mods and seems to be more known):
The Configurations to look for seem to be Qualcomm 450/625 with 2GB/32GB or 4GB/64GB
For REAL Android 11 and from what I read even Android 12 it would be: 4/64, 6/128 or 8/256 (Look at the 6/128GB, all the other Units normally have 8/128GB)
Here's for more Information on how to get one and being sure that yours is legit and where I got this from (I hope XDA allows the Links, if not Google for "BMW KSW Android 10" and use f30.bimmerpost):
10.25" Android 10 HU discussion
10.25" Android 10 HU discussion
f30.bimmerpost.com
10.25" Android 9/10 HU theming and discussion
10.25" Android 9/10 HU theming and discussion
f30.bimmerpost.com
Android 11 HU discussion
Android 11 HU discussion
f30.bimmerpost.com
But since we're here about the Nuuno let me add some stuff about mine:
The Package with the radio arrived pretty swiftly and pretty much everything you need to tear apart my A6 4F was included.
Sadly the new Plastic Insert for the Radio/Dash is the wrong color (My older 4F uses a dark gray and the new one is silver like for the newer 4F) but that's not much of a issue, still looks good. BUT the fit is not that well done, it has quite a few bigger gaps all around compared to the original plastic. You tend to forget about it though the longer you have it in your car up to the point you won't even notice it yourself anymore or even care.
Same problems with GPS here, the Signal is pretty bad to okayish at best so also need to try to get the original GPS antenna connected but it's not a huge breaking deal since using Android Auto it still works well and I dont care about the built in one.
Android Auto Wireless is also iffy here, sometimes it tries to connect, the fails and never tries again until I disconnect and reconnect my Phones Bluetooth connection to the headunit, then it works first try. What also seems to help is immediately after the Unit is booted up opening the zlink app, Then it also seems to work 90% of the time for me. Wired Android Auto works 100% of the time.
Using the Steering Wheel Controls is perfectly fine, I can even skip songs ahead or go back with the left one that normally selects the Input. That is something my older Android Auto retrofit module couldn't do.
NEVER EVER LOG INTO YOUR MAIN GOOGLE ACCOUNT ON THESE "FAKE" OR OLDER UNITS. That is sadly a well-known practice in most of the Android Car Radio Forums since many seem to have that annoying bug that deletes your Contacts. The Navifly/KSW Android Radios seem to not have this/or it got fixed.
Better be safe and always use a throwaway account on these things.
The Muting Sound when going to one of the original Car Menus is pretty bad, or well on mine it doesn't actually mute, it stops playback. If I start the music again from my phone I can listen to my Music and go through the original Car Menus. It sadly aslo cannot be deactivated this "Feature". Only on the Navifly/KSW Units mentioned in the BMW Forums you seem to be able to do it which is probably why I will get me one of those. Hopefully I won't forget to write a bit about that one too.
Lastly the AC: On my MMI 2G 4F the Display shows the correct Temperature that I set on my AC in the Display..
I hope this also helped a bit since these Units don't seem to be well known about only or atleast reported biut if you look on Aliexpress they're pretty much the first 10 you get shown when looking for Audi
Thanks for the info @Darthsternie. Do either of those brands make a unit that works with Audis? I briefly looked and couldn't find anything. I hate to end up buying a third unit for my car, so I guess I'll keep this one for the time being. I just really want to get the wireless piece figured out.
I just went out and put my stuff back together to confirm the GPS splitter cable did not interfere with stock nav, and it doesn't. So whatever the car might use GPS for should still work. While doing that, I confirmed what Darthsternie said about switching to the stock interface, it does pause playback. Not just mute. I assumed that was correct, but wanted to confirm on my unit. Backup camera has an option to disable this, but if you go into anything else from the Audi MMI, it pauses.
Also, thanks for the info on the temp. I'm on the 3g MMI "High" on my 2016 S4 (B8.5). "High" I believe means has stock NAV. Might ask the company about my issue. To be honest, since I have the dual temps shown on the temp dials, it's not really something I care much about.
I did log out of my google account and used an abandoned account I used years ago for a specific purpose that I no longer need. Should have known better. My concern was for apps I may have purchased like Torque. Don't really want to buy again. Wonder if I can put my other account in my family? Will look up how many people can be in a family. I think I'm at 2 right now.
As to the wireless, once I get in a bad state where it's constantly looping the connection attempt, I've been unable to solve it without a reboot. I can kill Zlink. I can cycle bluetooth on the phone. I can manually navigate to Zlink, but that's not the problem because I can even auto-launch Zlink at start and it still does it.
Will have to investigate a replacement for Zlink if that's possible on these. I just haven't really dug into Android head units enough to know anything at this point. Need a good wiki or something
Navifly is not a guarantee either, they also sell snapdragons as well as MTK units, you want the legit snapdragon with the KSW software if you want to have a compatible unit with what most of the modders are using. I got mine a few years ago from Navifly and it is a P60 cpu MTK unit and it works well and gets the job done, but I would much rather have a KSW based unit.
I also have a B8.5 Audi.
You should download Device Info HW from the play store and it will give you a breakdown on the unit and let you know if they are faking the android version, etc.
Device Info HW - Apps on Google Play
Hardware and software information app for Android devices.
play.google.com
twist said:
Navifly is not a guarantee either, they also sell snapdragons as well as MTK units, you want the legit snapdragon with the KSW software if you want to have a compatible unit with what most of the modders are using. I got mine a few years ago from Navifly and it is a P60 cpu MTK unit and it works well and gets the job done, but I would much rather have a KSW based unit.
I also have a B8.5 Audi.
You should download Device Info HW from the play store and it will give you a breakdown on the unit and let you know if they are faking the android version, etc.
Device Info HW - Apps on Google Play
Hardware and software information app for Android devices.
play.google.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Suspiciously, Device Info HW will install, but fails to run on launch. Will dig a bit more.
I finally heard back from these guys and got a screenshot. Here is the link for the unit.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803161214499.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.3a3738dazQvvo3&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
And here is the screenshot he sent. This is the newer KSW software and it should be a legit snapdragon 662.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Talking to these guys through their aliexpress translator is almost futile. I ended up sending him a screenshot with the APP Ver highlighted on a different older KSW unit and then he sent this back.
I have just bought this one for my Audi A6 C6 from 2005.
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005240382533.html
I hope it's a real 662 Unit but according to the seller and a screenshot from them it is.
I will try to report back again when it arrives and compare it to the Nuuno Unit that I have now
Hi,
Ive just ordered 2 weeks ago a Nunoo 12.3 128+8GB device with Snapdragon 665 for my A5 B8 Pre-Facelift. Ive asked the seller to confirm if its really 665 and he did. I can also confirm, that my device have a 665 if i can trust CPU-Z this device info software shows also Android 12S. I dont know, if its better to have this MTK8581 CPU like on the COIKA devices or the Snapdragon 665. I just can say i was focused on the 665 because this is that, was RSNAV uses.
I had before an RSNAV S1, so the first generation in 10.25". This unit was also for sure not bug free and i switched it because it was now fully bricked. I got random bootloops and blackscreens, even after factory reset. My brightness control was buggy, it was inverted and dark at day and bright at night. Support from RSNAV haven't helped me with that. Finally, I also had no GPS reception any more. I had used the roof antenna from the A5 for the S1, without the splitter. However, as the roof antenna is a known problem and tends to break down overnight, I assumed that this problem had now also affected me. But that's not true, because the roof antenna now showed 15 satellites when connected to the MMI again After research, I found out that this was also a known problem with the RSNAV S1, that the GPS transistor burns out and that this is not repairable.
I don't have any further experience with the new Nunoo device yet, I need a few more days for that. I can report back then. What I noticed is that the frame that was sent to me has a much worse fit than the one I had with the RSNAV S1. Let's see if the support team can do something about that.
By the way, some people have already reported that the RSNAV firmware runs just as well on the Nunoo devices. I have not yet tried this out myself. However, this could fix some bugs and possibly bring a few more options.
RSNAV was a major rip off IMO, they are just selling the same Chinese units at a markup and the markup is not worth what little support you might get, that is just my opinion and I know many will disagree.
The snapdragon is going to be way better then the MTK I had an MTK previously and it worked fine but I was unable to change launchers or do anything outside of what they supply, the MTK units are super locked down and proprietary, the snapdragons have all kinds of fun mods and capabilities so you can really dial in your head unit how you want it to be.
I don't personally know anything about nunoo but these units are almost all made by Mekede / Navifly and being resold by multiple different stores just rebranding. I am sure there are some other companies making fake units, but a lot of the chinese stuff all comes from the same factory and then a ton of other companies rebrand them and resell them.
Even my previous Mekede MTK unit was fake android 10, it was really android 9, the fraud and scams on aliexpress is so unacceptable, which is why I buy very little there, these headunits were the only 2 purchases I have made on there in the last 2+ years.

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