Hi all,
I've just got my PX5 Isudar headunit. All is fine, canbus + sleep mode etc. But I have a small issue :
If the unit is playing music and I start the engine, it loses a little bit of power and makes some static noise, then continues running without restarting or anything else.
Does anyone know why is this happening ?
Thx.
Bump
when starting your car, you drain to much current from the car battery to keep the voltage high enough for the amps in the unit to work correctly. the amps will brown out (have to low voltage to work) and come back on again..
to counter this problem you can either:
get a new battery for your car with a higher CCA rating (Cold Crank Amps), or:
get a honking big capacitor to feed the unit whilst starting the engine..
(new battery is cheaper )
Related
Hello, I recently installed the above Android unit into my 2014 Mitsubishi EVO with Rockford system. It came with the can bus decoder MT-SS-03 for 2014 Outlander. I set everything up in the factory settings menu but I'm having a major audio problem that sadly is ruining an otherwise awesome experience.
If I listen to any music at high volume all system audio cuts out completely for 5-10 seconds at a time. I've found this problem is directly related to the volume. The louder it is, the quicker the audio will cut out. I've double and triple checked all wiring and pins, updated to the latest MCU 2.59, Android system (8-3-2017), etc.
I'm out of ideas on what to try next but hoping someone here can shine some light on the situation. Thanks in advance and looking forward to putting an end to this issue!
do you have proper canbus?
Yes I do, according to them. I did get a red one though which was labeled for 2014 Outlander which I understand to be the newer can box for 2014-2015 EVO but the pictures I've seen show a black box and mine was red but labeled as the newer one. I thought the older 2008-2013 units were red. Not sure if that makes a difference or not but I do have sound from all speakers so it works it just cuts out at high volume. However, the amplifier settings on the Android unit do respond a bit strange. The sub slider seems to change all speaker output and not the sub directly and has a pretty minimal effect. The fader seems right at least as far as the channels go.
In the meantime I did contact the seller on Amazon about the issue. They told me the issue is caused by the high power protection of the factory amplifier. To fix the issue they want me to re-install the factory radio, turn the volume sliders down to the "middle part" and then install the Android unit again. This seems a bit strange to me but it could be the factory radio interfaces with the amp in a different way and is able to control the gain of the sub and the Android unit cannot. With the newer Android unit I noticed the max volume is much louder so maybe I'm hitting some sort of over current protection causing the amp to momentarily shut down. Has anyone ever heard of this?
What I'm not sure about is when this procedure would be needed. Is it because I had the amp slider on factory unit is set too high before I removed it or is it because I disconnected the battery and the amp defaults to a higher setting that only the factory unit can adjust? It would be a real shame if every time power is cut from the amp I need to repeat the process. I fear that may be the case because I'm not sure the amp has an internal EPROM or non-volatile memory that's saving the settings and I did in fact disconnect the battery.
Either way I'll be happy to finally get to the bottom of the issue and I'm sure I'll find out whether or not I'll need to swap the radios again. Until then I'll keep the factory unit closeby. Luckily it's very easy to swap out so fingers crossed this fixes the problem. It's going to be a few days till I pull the radio out since I'm also waiting for a replacement USB harness since one of mine is inop due to a damaged wire.
Please let me know if anyone has any input about this. Thanks again.
Ditto - did you try swapping back and lowering the volume, if so, did it resolve the issue?
I have only had mine for 3 days, Dasiata HA2106-S720 with Dasaita CB003 Canbus harness in a 2013 Mitsubishi ASX with Rockford Fosgate. I would agree that the volume seems higher, so there could be some truth in the Sellers theory.
By the way my experience with Subwoofer control also matches yours - adjusting the lowest frequencies on the Graphic Equalizer seems to affect the main speakers more than the subwoofer, and I am not getting the same 'punchy' bass as the OEM Head Unit.
TSimone said:
Hello, I recently installed the above Android unit into my 2014 Mitsubishi EVO with Rockford system. It came with the can bus decoder MT-SS-03 for 2014 Outlander. I set everything up in the factory settings menu but I'm having a major audio problem that sadly is ruining an otherwise awesome experience.
If I listen to any music at high volume all system audio cuts out completely for 5-10 seconds at a time. I've found this problem is directly related to the volume. The louder it is, the quicker the audio will cut out. I've double and triple checked all wiring and pins, updated to the latest MCU 2.59, Android system (8-3-2017), etc.
I'm out of ideas on what to try next but hoping someone here can shine some light on the situation. Thanks in advance and looking forward to putting an end to this issue!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You made also the Car Settings to work well ? Things like keyless operations, windshiel wipers operation, lights time out, auto fold mirror, etc ? Thanks.
Quick review of the subject unit, which is an Android 8.0 Octa Core Car DVD GPS Player For Audi A6 1997–2004 Radio Navigation
unit. It is the one found on dvdplayer.c0m.cn although updated.
Not too many choices for the C5 Audi A6 (1998 -- 2004 in the US), so went with this one since it looks fairly like the RNS-E I had in there previously. It's a bit too deep black, not too noticeable except when directly lit by sunlight. I bought mine through Top Navi off of eBay, quick shipping and good communication. They asked for confirmation photo of dashboard and a description of installed equipment (existing navigation, with or without Bose). Unit came set up with Bose-level outputs (between line-out and fully amplified, from what I understand) and signal to power on the amp. Also came with an antenna amplifier, which is apparently required if the vehicle has a shark-fin antenna (Maybe all VWs? Don't know for sure.)
Initially my car battery was being drained overnight, which was just a bit annoying. On the Pumpkin forum, Pumpkin recommended cutting the yellow wire (always hot) to the CAN gateway, which worked. Apparently some interaction between the gateway and the vehicle CAN system prevents the car's CAN system from shutting down.
I wanted the head unit to operate as much like the stock unit as possible, such as shutting down only when opening the door (key off). I found the wires running from the car's Comfort and Convenience unit to the driver's side window control panel and spliced the head unit's Aux power feed to that, rather than key-on Aux power. Radio shuts down now (soft shutdown) when the door is opened, rather then when turning off the key. (The wires are red w/ gray stripe, red connector under the footwell side cover.) I have no steering wheel buttons (It's an RS6, so no buttons), so haven't done anything else with CAN or KEY wires so far, but intend to add hard buttons for radio station change at some point -- can't stand touch screen for that type of thing.
The launcher is pretty ugly, and there doesn't seem to be a way to change the Music button to launch A2DP, which I would much prefer. The unit uses an ST 7851 amplifier, and sounds every bit as good as the RNS-E (well, it's feeding the Bose amp, so no reason why it wouldn't.) Radio reception is good, no worse than the RNS-E. The screen is most often bright enough in daylight, but is low-contrast and can get washed out. the buttons feel solid. The IGO nav kept looking to the SD to finish installing, although the seller swears that it should be looking at internal storage. I deleted IGO for now, will re-download and start from scratch at some point. The internal mic works well enough, as in I'm intelligible, although apparently I sound like I'm in a small, echoe-y room. I'll hard-wire an external mic at some point.
Overall, it's a pretty good unit for the money, if a bit unpolished.
Hey all,
I upgraded from a PX5 Xtrons. Had no issues with it.
When volume is muted, there's no sound. When on 1 or higher, there's a background fuzz. Not static but just a general oldschool hifi 'furry' sound. It doesn't get louder if I turn the volume up. I've tried unplugging everything but the main harness. Doesn't matter if the engine is running or not.
I'm using the Xtrons harness because I didn't want to have to run a whole new one to the boot where the factory amp is. It looks like there's a couple of pins different too. Hoping it's not that...
Any ideas?
Thanks.
Honestly most of these units in my experience have some. WiFi, cell phones, radio etc can sometimes be picked up by the amplifier circuit and you'll hear their resonate frequencies through the car stereo (turn any stereo up loud and put a phone near the active input cable... you'll hear it). Honestly the best thing you can do is make sure the radio is grounded to your chassis directly, that way a lot of these spurious signals are filtered properly and their pesky resonates cease to exist!
Oh and it usually quits when you turn it to 0 because it actually completely shuts down the amplifier...
Thanks for the response. I’ll pull the head unit out at some stage and try and ground it. If it fixes it I’ll report back. Thanks again.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
After my car had been unused for a couple of months I got this strange problem. I realize that it might be a hardware fault, but maybe there is some clever solution to override it.
I have always had a small "pop" when turning on the head lights, but now the sound completely dies too. No sound from FM radio or any other music app. But if I put the head unit in standby and then turn it on the sound is back.
Also if I turn mute ON I can hear the sound very, very quiet, but if I turn mute OFF the sound is gone again.
I have tried different MCUs, stock Android 9 and 10, and Malaysk 10, no difference. I have tried to turn brightness adjustment off in MCU settings, instead of being controlled by the head lights.
My head unit is a PX6 MTCE with MTCE_CHS 3.75 MCU.
The head unit is connected to OEM amplifier through fiber optic converter.
Any ideas what to try next?
I am very thankful for any input.
I'd check the optical signal remains when the headlights are on. That will confirm it is nothing downstream of that.
I'd also be checking the voltage drop at the car battery when the lights are turned on. That will give an indication about the *possibility* of the head unit or a specific component of the HU going into a safety mode due to low juice.
Does the same thing happen when just the parking lights rather than the full headlights go on?
Report back on voltage and draw at the car battery if you can and go from there.
Thank you for your input.
I have checked the voltage drop when turning on the headlights, and it's just about 0,1 - 0, 2 V.
Just turning on the parking lights does not kill the sound.
When I start the car I have a much bigger drop, and it doesn't affect the sound, as long as the head lights are turned off.
Since I can hear the sound with really low volume when mute is on, I guess that means that the fiber optic converter works.
You mentioned in your original post that you still had some sound on mute.. agreed with you - wine last night confused me.
You don't say was the voltage actually drops to, just the amount it drops by. But if the car starts, you may assume that it is not charge.
I'm guessing the wrong car is chosen via software for the Canbus. Maybe you can offer more details. That sort of info is free and can help others.
Actual voltage
Car type, model and year
Current canbus car choice in setup
Anything else non standard
Any non standard connections to the wiring looms.
ludditefornow said:
You mentioned in your original post that you still had some sound on mute.. agreed with you - wine last night confused me.
You don't say was the voltage actually drops to, just the amount it drops by. But if the car starts, you may assume that it is not charge.
I'm guessing the wrong car is chosen via software for the Canbus. Maybe you can offer more details. That sort of info is free and can help others.
Actual voltage
Car type, model and year
Current canbus car choice in setup
Anything else non standard
Any non standard connections to the wiring looms.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your suggestions!
I have done some more troubleshooting and now I am thinking that it's more likely to be some kind of grounding issue (or a bad mainboard) than a canbus problem. Because sometimes when I plug in an USB drive or an USB cable (not connected to anything) there is a "bang" and the sound dies, as it does when turning on the head lights.
I made a new grounding wire and mounted it directly to a ground point in the car chassis, instead of using the one from the OEM cable harness., but no difference. Car on or off does not matter and I also tried with an power supply connected to the car battery.
Should I try to ground the head unit better and where to put the wire then? Would the head unit chassis be enough or is it necessary to open it up and connect it somewhere on the mainboard?
I'd be disconnecting as much as possible and just feeding a power ground and an ACC feed.
Hook up speakers only and see what the result is.
Add one component at a time and test again. Might be easier to check initially out of the car and using a constant 12v power source or even an old PC ATX PSU. They have 12v and 5v rails.
I don't think adding more ground will change much.
ludditefornow said:
I'd be disconnecting as much as possible and just feeding a power ground and an ACC feed.
Hook up speakers only and see what the result is.
Add one component at a time and test again. Might be easier to check initially out of the car and using a constant 12v power source or even an old PC ATX PSU. They have 12v and 5v rails.
I don't think adding more ground will change much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried this yesterday, but with the head unit still in the car. Disconnected everything but the fiber optics converter and power. I had no problems when turning on the head lights, I tried many times. Sound did not die. Still some weird sounds when using USB drive though.
I made an extra wire from the ground wire and mounted it at one of the screws at the back of the head unit. I connected everything back except the FM antenna connector. I suspected it could be interfering because the amplified OEM FM antenna is connected to a control unit in the car which is also managing car lights.
After this I had no problems at all for the rest of the evening. Tried turning on the head lights when driving and with the engine off. Plugged in USB drive and USB cable. Sound dit not die and no noise when using USB.
Today the problem with dying sound when turning on head lights was back.
My feeling is that this issue is much more likely to happen when the head unit (and the car) is cold. If the car has been driven so the temperature inside is around 20 degrees for a period of time, or if it has been standing in the sun so the interior is warm, it is very rare that turning on the head lights affects the sound.
Probably u have heard this already before.
Recently puchased an Aycetry PX6 with DSP HU unit but looks like it's a Wondefoo actually that had a really rough start in the beginning.
Seller told me beforehand that I'll need some adapter to power my half bose system(I didnt really understand this why cause I saw a low of videos with HU's that could power an Audi amp), then when the unit arrived it didnt want to start at all until a car electrician moved a cable to a different pin and reconnected a blackplug into the second one(pictures below)(ACC).
The only thing that remains now is the rear speakers who's volume sounds 30-35% or so lower.
I noticed that if my engine is OFF I dont really have good radio signal. The blue wire that powers the radio antena only has 11.5 V(maybe) in this state. Once I turn ON the engine the blue wire of the radio antena has 13.5V and I have very good radio signal.
I tought something similar is the problem with the rear speakers as well so I measured the blue/white wire that connects to the white cable in the iso harness which should power the amp and in both states of the engine, on or off, I have 13.5V.
So I'm not sure what exactly is the problem here. The seller did offer me some adapter for 10 USD but if the blue/white wire that goes to the white wire in the iso harness already has 13.5V then where exactly is the problem. Or does my amp need more V's?
Please offer some suggetions here.
The unit really sounds good, made a bunch of video upgrading my 1DIN cage to a 2DIN cage and would like to close this matter so I may finish editing my videos.
Rear speakers playing as loud as front speakers will destroy your stereo stage.
So if you are serious about sound guality you want your rear speaker at low volume.
13.5V should not cause any problems. But I would definitely not power any amp from the head unit. Car amps normally have a "remote" signal input that doesn't really pull any power but tells the amp to turn on. Car amps draws a lot of current through a heavy gauge wire directly from the battery.
So I am pretty sure the "amp wire" from your head unit is designed as a remote signal telling the amp to turn on.
Bad things are likely to happen if you draw any significant power through the tiny amp remote wire so I would check how the amp was powered with the OEM headunit and use the OEM power wire. Alternatively you could run a new heavy gauge wire directly from battery to your amps power input.
You could install a simple NO relay to solve the low antenna voltage with engine of problem.
Thank you for your answer.
With the original cd-player front and rear speaker had the same volume. So I guess the audio system was designed to work this way.
However, new HU has a different design which was clear from the start since I had troubles event starting it up and now I must find some way to overcome it.
I was hoping to find someone else that had similar issues.
The low antenna voltage while engine is OFF is not a problem for me. Mostly I listen to music and rarely radio and since the car is ON doesn't really matter.