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Hi Folks, Firstly I know I have been very stupid. Please don't make me feel worse than I already do. I have read through this board and after feeling like I was about to give in trying to fix my Chinese GPS I have a bit of hope. I bought the unit as working from ebay and decided (stupidly) to flash Mio Pocket after a guy on a car forum sung its praises. I initially meant to run from the sd to test but I accidentally clicked install and it did its thing then froze on reboot. After rebooting it was just stuck on the screen saying Welcome to Navigation. I have measured my screen, it seems to be 6.5" measured diagonally
I found a chinese site and have tried all the firmware on there, it all seems to restore my original GPS side of the software but the screen is the wrong resolution and too low on the screen. I can just about calibrate it by poking my nail down the bezel for the lower calibration points but then when I select the navigation source selection screen I cant see the files as they are off to the left (off screen) I tried using the remote to no avail. I have also tried the 117_nav_en.exe floating around on the internet which again seems to be the right software but the wrong resolution. My problem is that I bought the unit off ebay and I don't know the brand or model number to contact support. Neither does the seller unfortunately (it was used)
The unit is for a Skoda / VW it has GPS, BT, TV Tuner, 2 x sd slots (one for nav one for media) and an iphone input on the front. It has the car door open indicator pictures etc and the non ce side of things is still working fine.
I am reasonably confident that the firmware I have tried so far is for bigger screens than my 6.5" and hopefully if I can find a firmware version for this size I should be ok.
I have included an image of how it currently looks
I really hope someone can help me
Thanks for reading
Hi guys
I'm hoping to get some help from you with deciding head unit for my Ford S-Max. I'm doing a research about it but still a bit confused.
I have few units I'm looking at,
1. Ford specific Joying - JY-FL124N2 ( Android 5.1.1 Lollipop 2GB RAM Intel SoFIA 3GR , 4 Cores )
2. Universal Joying - JY-UL135N2 ( Android 5.1.1 Lollipop 2GB RAM Intel SoFIA 3GR , 4 Cores )
3. Ford specyfic Xtrons - PF75QSFAP-S ( Android 5.1 Lollipop 64 Bit Operating System Quad Core )
4. Ford specyfic Xtrons - PCD76QSFA-S ( Android 6.0 Marshmallow quad core Cortex A7 )
5. Ford specyfic Xtrons - PF70FSFS-S ( 800MHZ Cortex A7 Processor and latest WinCE6.0 )
I'm really into buying ford specific Joying with SoFIA, i was reading about it and plenty of people suggest to buy this one and all seems good but there is one big minus of it, there is no DVD slot (which isn't a problem) the problem is with 2 NOT working buttons 'eject cd' and 'dvd' which is very annoying and taking up the space... I've asked support if there is a chance to reuse (re-programme) those buttons for something else but got no response about that.
Anyway I like the Universal Joying unit the most, one volume knob, few buttons, looks much better then ford specific ones but there is a problem with wiring, its needed to get the harness etc from other source and whats worst connect all that to be working, steering wheels controls are the most stressful for me, and need to get some dash kit for installation. So I will end up with a frame in a frame (unit itself), so it will be very visible that this is a after market unit.
.
If you have any other suggestions please dont hesitate to say.
This will be used mostly for youtube, some movies for my kids, playing music from my phone (Xperia Z3), making calls, using internet from my phone or hotspots, navigation (probably google maps as i like them the most). I also want to get the rear camera with it
Any ideas welccome, thanks!
R
What year is your S-max? For the newer ones (post 2011or so) it's hard to change the OEM unit because the airco controls are integrated.
Johan
Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-T580 met Tapatalk
JohanEe said:
What year is your S-max? For the newer ones (post 2011or so) it's hard to change the OEM unit because the airco controls are integrated.
Johan
Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-T580 met Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Johan, thanks for asking...its 2006 Ford S-Max so its easy enough with those specific ones.
I was thinking about it and decided to use one of the specific ones, less hassle with installation and looks better, less after market. But Im not sure which one to pick, I dont have a big budget for this and would prefer to spend around € 200 on it but i dont want to be disappointed with how the unit works, i need it to work mostly with rear camera, playing music from my phone and simultaneously using navigation or playing videos in the back screens (when i finally buy them, plan for future), making calls, some youtube for kids during the trip...i just have enough of drained batteries in phones by 'wheels on the bus' songs lol
In my opinion, as a general rule you should pick up an unit with 2Gb of Ram and physical buttons.
A quad core is also recommended and to be honest I don't think that you need more then quad. There are some new units with octa but I haven't read more info and don't know if they worth the trouble.
Also I would pick a Ford specific unit because it fits perfectly in the dash compared to a standard 2DIN with various adapters that are not always up to standard most of the time.
Sofia looks like a good option, I am also interested in one... I began to read about it... I need to replace my 2 year old 3066 (KYD) unit.
I am mostly seeking it's instant on feature since I got tired of waiting for 30-40 seconds for my unit to boot each time I start my car.
Also I am not sure that you should opt for a CD unit since most don't use CD's anymore.... but that's up to you.
From my experience these aftermarket silver units are a different shade (brighter) of silver compared to the silver dash Ford elements.
nouserr said:
Hi guys
I'm hoping to get some help from you with deciding head unit for my Ford S-Max. I'm doing a research about it but still a bit confused.
I have few units I'm looking at,
1. Ford specific Joying - JY-FL124N2 ( Android 5.1.1 Lollipop 2GB RAM Intel SoFIA 3GR , 4 Cores )
2. Universal Joying - JY-UL135N2 ( Android 5.1.1 Lollipop 2GB RAM Intel SoFIA 3GR , 4 Cores )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
edit said:
In my opinion, as a general rule you should pick up an unit with 2Gb of Ram and physical buttons.
A quad core is also recommended and to be honest I don't think that you need more then quad. There are some new units with octa but I haven't read more info and don't know if they worth the trouble.
Also I would pick a Ford specific unit because it fits perfectly in the dash compared to a standard 2DIN with various adapters that are not always up to standard most of the time.
Sofia looks like a good option, I am also interested in one... I began to read about it... I need to replace my 2 year old 3066 (KYD) unit.
I am mostly seeking it's instant on feature since I got tired of waiting for 30-40 seconds for my unit to boot each time I start my car.
Also I am not sure that you should opt for a CD unit since most don't use CD's anymore.... but that's up to you.
From my experience these aftermarket silver units are a different shade (brighter) of silver compared to the silver dash Ford elements.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey
Thanks for spending time to reply.
Yes i also decided to go with a Ford specific, i know the shade might be different but it will still look better then universal unit with frames...The only thing that is annoying is those 2 not working buttons...
It would be good enough if we can programme them but probably those are just blank covers without a button.
nouserr said:
Hey
Thanks for spending time to reply.
Yes i also decided to go with a Ford specific, i know the shade might be different but it will still look better then universal unit with frames...The only thing that is annoying is those 2 not working buttons...
It would be good enough if we can programme them but probably those are just blank covers without a button.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad I could help, I have a Mondeo (oval shape headunit unit) myself and exchanged quite a lot of headunits, I had 2 x 2DIN units and 2 x Ford specific ones. With the 2 DIN I had a hard tine finding adapters that fit perfectly but never got one with the right shade of silver or the perfect shape to accommodate the dash and the 2DIN unit... So I gave up on 2DIN units based on the adapters headache and overall look.
I mentioned that thing about the silver shade because you don't have this problem if you buy it black
Some people are bothered if it's not the same shade.
Yes, those 2 dummy buttons annoys me as well but there's nothing we can do... Overall the buttons layout is not for my liking. I would have preferred the standard android buttons on one side (back, home...) and multimedia buttons on the other side (play, stop...). But they tried really hard to cut the costs this time using old parts and completely cutting out the CD/DVD unit. For me the CD/DVD is useless because with all the streaming services I haven't touched an CD in the last 3 years. The DVD player in the car is also useless for me... when I drive I need waze/gmaps/igo/here and PlayerPro/XiiaLive Pro.
The Sofia unit needs a little modding from what I have read... you definitely need to stop the killing app service, install Viper4Android because the 3 band default EQ is really poor in general... and probably many more... still reading on the problems the unit has and the workarounds.
One thing I can say for sure.. if it weren't for the XDA forum and all these great people I would never consider buying an Chinese unit because out of the box it's pretty poor software wise.
nouserr said:
I'm really into buying ford specific Joying with SoFIA, i was reading about it and plenty of people suggest to buy this one and all seems good but there is one big minus of it, there is no DVD slot (which isn't a problem) the problem is with 2 NOT working buttons 'eject cd' and 'dvd' which is very annoying and taking up the space... I've asked support if there is a chance to reuse (re-programme) those buttons for something else but got no response about that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi all.
I've recently bought the Joying EU-JY-FL121N2 model, so it fits for a bit newer Modeo/S-max/Focus. In my model there is a dvd slot but it's blanked (not as in the pictures of the hu on the Joying website). The most important thing for you may be the fact that the 'dvd' and 'eject' buttons do work, they just don't do nothing on default. With the
Joying 2GB - Steering wheel key customization - V4 (NO KILL)
mod I am able to use them. I can't be 100% sure that there is the same situation with the other models but I suppose that in fact it is.
[email protected] said:
Hi all.
I've recently bought the Joying EU-JY-FL121N2 model, so it fits for a bit newer Modeo/S-max/Focus. In my model there is a dvd slot but it's blanked (not as in the pictures of the hu on the Joying website). The most important thing for you may be the fact that the 'dvd' and 'eject' buttons do work, they just don't do nothing on default. With the
Joying 2GB - Steering wheel key customization - V4 (NO KILL)
mod I am able to use them. I can't be 100% sure that there is the same situation with the other models but I suppose that in fact it is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you please take a picture of your unit and show us how it looks... the pictures from the website are old renderings that had the CD slot removed in Photoshop. I would like to see a real picture if possible.
Let me get straight you managed to remap those buttons to do something else with the help of the mod "Joying 2GB - Steering wheel key customization - V4 (NO KILL)"?
Thank you !
edit said:
Can you please take a picture of your unit and show us how it looks... the pictures from the website are old renderings that had the CD slot removed in Photoshop. I would like to see a real picture if possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here you go. The whole unit first:
drive.google.com/open?id=0B7ILN8lhPUkFLWxMcVdyNDZQUGM
And now the picture of the "dvd slot". I shot it with flash so you can see there is no hole:
drive.google.com/open?id=0B7ILN8lhPUkFYXFCNEQxbGZyckk
Let me get straight you managed to remap those buttons to do something else with the help of the mod "Joying 2GB - Steering wheel key customization - V4 (NO KILL)"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is exactly what I did. In my unit I've got the following codes:
31 - DVD button
32 - EJECT button
33 - MEDIA button
34 - RADIO button
[email protected] said:
Here you go. The whole unit first:
drive.google.com/open?id=0B7ILN8lhPUkFLWxMcVdyNDZQUGM
And now the picture of the "dvd slot". I shot it with flash so you can see there is no hole:
drive.google.com/open?id=0B7ILN8lhPUkFYXFCNEQxbGZyckk
That is exactly what I did. In my unit I've got the following codes:
31 - DVD button
32 - EJECT button
33 - MEDIA button
34 - RADIO button
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you VERY much for the feedback. The pictures are great. They differ a lot from what they posted ... Surprise! the DVD slot is still there... only that is blocked... hmm.....
I pictured that they at least get rid of the slot and the side lights (that I presume that they still lit the fake cd slot)... kinda sloppy decision.... eh... whatever....
The unit looks good... I am definately getting one.
1. Since I have an Mondeo and I will be getting the exact same unit I gotta ask if everything went fine as for some units there are problems with steering wheel buttons (vol up and down, next, prev) especially the M button in the middle (you can't configure it to do anything)? Do they work ok?
2. Did you encounter problems at start (the unit start command, power on, is sent through CAN and actually interpreted and enable by the chinese CAN decoder) ?
3. Does the instant power on feature works ok?
4. The unit hardware buttons backlight colour match the car dashboard?
5. Is the screen bright enough?
6. At night does it dimm enough or do you need to use some software to dimm it even more? (like I feed the need on my unit, if I turn down the brightness even if it goes prett down I still feel the need to make my screen even darker for those white background apps like Google Play Music)
Thank you !
edit said:
1. Since I have an Mondeo and I will be getting the exact same unit I gotta ask if everything went fine as for some units there are problems with steering wheel buttons (vol up and down, next, prev) especially the M button in the middle (you can't configure it to do anything)? Do they work ok?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was able to get the steering wheel buttons work. I only use those on the left side, but all of them work: vol up/down, next/prev and the 'M' button. In my case the wheel buttons work with connecting 'KEY2' wire - sorry but I don't remember details right know - it is described in the manual from Joying (which is included with the HU). At start after cutting some wire I connected it from the wrong side with the KEY2 one, but then I've noticed a youtube clip
youtube.com/watch?v=QaJqWy9Tk24
and did the same way, but I had to stay with the canbus decoder connected (the only difference from the method shown above).
2. Did you encounter problems at start (the unit start command, power on, is sent through CAN and actually interpreted and enable by the chinese CAN decoder) ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't quite understand what you've wrote in brackets - I haven't noticed any weird behaviour with starting the unit.
3. Does the instant power on feature works ok?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it does actually. I don't know much about the battery drain - I've got the unit for a week only. But I've seen somewhere in the forum statistics of the processor activity during the night and it was almost 100% deep sleep so I'm hoping it's ok.
4. The unit hardware buttons backlight colour match the car dashboard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Essentially, yes. In more details: I've set up the red colour (the option of changing colour is visible only with car's lights on - not that much obvious to me) and in the daylight it looks a bit pale - you can see it on the pictures I gave. But when it's dark they look very nice to me - the same or almost the same colour as on the dashboard.
5. Is the screen bright enough?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We haven't had many sunny days during the last week, so I may only say - I can see what's on the screen, but I don't think I'm going to use it to watch movies - radio, music, bluetooth, maps - for now it's all I need.
6. At night does it dimm enough or do you need to use some software to dimm it even more? (like I feed the need on my unit, if I turn down the brightness even if it goes prett down I still feel the need to make my screen even darker for those white background apps like Google Play Music)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't tell anything about that to be honest, this is to check yet. I'm not very sure but I think that the 28 march update brought some more options for backlight of the screen (but it may have been there before also).
I ordered it just now, hope it goes well !
Thank you for all the feedback !
---------- Post added at 12:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:09 PM ----------
[email protected];71748303
Yes said:
Did it start instantly each day or there were days when it booted slowly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
edit said:
Did it start instantly each day or there were days when it booted slowly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't notice the last question, so maybe the answer is for other people right now - I haven't got any cold boot yet.
Sent from my D5803 using XDA-Developers Legacy app
[email protected] said:
I didn't notice the last question, so maybe the answer is for other people right now - I haven't got any cold boot yet.
Sent from my D5803 using XDA-Developers Legacy app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is nice to know... I am hoping that my unit will be here in the next 2-3 days... and then it's mod time... lots of work
Have you hard moded yours to add additional cooling to the unit (heatsinks or fans) or did you let it stock? Have you noticed cpu throttling ? Have you checked the CPU temp? (not sure how users checked it out, probably with an app)
Don't know if I will mod my unit, I am not ready to give up the warranty from day 1.
edit said:
Have you hard moded yours to add additional cooling to the unit (heatsinks or fans) or did you let it stock? Have you noticed cpu throttling ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AFAIK people here have got some throttling during cpu stress (some benchmarks I think) - I use the unit for listening to the radio, music, phone calls and navigation, for now at least. I don't think those actions will stress the hu at all or maybe in some small amount - I hope so at least...
Have you checked the CPU temp? (not sure how users checked it out, probably with an app)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't done this with the unit, but in my phone I've used cpuz. I think there are plenty of such kind of apps in Play store which even don't need root.
Don't know if I will mod my unit, I am not ready to give up the warranty from day 1.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right now I'm not ready to do any hardware mod and surely I don't feel I need one.
[email protected] said:
AFAIK people here have got some throttling during cpu stress (some benchmarks I think) - I use the unit for listening to the radio, music, phone calls and navigation, for now at least. I don't think those actions will stress the hu at all or maybe in some small amount - I hope so at least...
I haven't done this with the unit, but in my phone I've used cpuz. I think there are plenty of such kind of apps in Play store which even don't need root.
Right now I'm not ready to do any hardware mod and surely I don't feel I need one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is your CAN bus settings? I am really struggling with my CAN bus. My S-Max headlights are blinking when parked. I would love to know what settings you are using.
Iscariot76 said:
What is your CAN bus settings? I am really struggling with my CAN bus. My S-Max headlights are blinking when parked. I would love to know what settings you are using.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What kind of headlights do you have? In my car there are h1/h7 bulbs and I can't see any kind of blinking.
I managed to solve my issue by cutting the wire on the alarm sensor pin in the plug between my car and HU.
Hi,
There's an issue that has been mildly bugging me since I have had my Android Head Unit. Just wondering if I'm the only one or if this is a known issue.
Sometime when starting the car and the Head Unit powers up, the bluetooth and Wifi radios are not working. My phone cannot connect via bluetooth and the Wifi activation slider in the Wifi Setting menu will not move to the "activated" position.
Usually, a full system restart fixes the issue but I've had occurence where a second reboot in a row is necessary!
This has been going since I have had the unit. I didn't stay on stock ROM for long as I moved to Malaysk first and now using Hal9k ROM. Both ROMs exhibit the same issue. Point is I don't know if the stock ROM had this issue.
Head Unit is equipped with a MD725 version 1 radio module.
Does somebody have a workaround (other than rebooting)?
Thanks!
EDIT: Please check this post for a detailed explanation of the cause of the problem, the resolution process and finally provides fixes for it.
psyko_chewbacca said:
Hi,
There's an issue that has been mildly bugging me since I have had my Android Head Unit. Just wondering if I'm the only one or if this is a known issue.
Sometime when starting the car and the Head Unit powers up, the bluetooth and Wifi radios are not working. My phone cannot connect via bluetooth and the Wifi activation slider in the Wifi Setting menu will not move to the "activated" position.
Usually, a full system restart fixes the issue but I've had occurence where a second reboot in a row is necessary!
This has been going since I have had the unit. I didn't stay on stock ROM for long as I moved to Malaysk first and now using Hal9k ROM. Both ROMs exhibit the same issue. Point is I don't know if the stock ROM had this issue.
Head Unit is equipped with a MD725 version 1 radio module.
Does somebody have a workaround (other than rebooting)?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How disappointing to see that no one has replied. I purchased a Seicane unit from an Amazon seller two weeks ago, and among the things I noticed immediately was the frequent, seemingly random WIFI/BT disconnect. As you described, it happens when waking up. Either pressing the reset button or holding the power button for >5 seconds has returned their functionality every time (so far). But, in corresponding with Seicane, they act like it's the first time they've heard of it. They want to replace the WIFI module. But, I'm sure that'll take weeks, and by the time it gets here, I'm outside the return window with Amazon.
I'm fully stock, and I really like the fit and finish in my Tundra.
Can I thread-jack and ask you some questions to see if you have other issues like me?
- Google account sync is missing calendar (and chrome too, for that matter). That means any calendar app (stock or 3rd party) cannot access events. Do you see calendar under settings/accounts/google/sync?
- Side-loading apks is a no-go. Whether I use file manager, or the default "Apk-installer", when I try to install an APK (even OEM legit ones on the internal memory), I get a momentary flash of "package install.." then right back to the file list. Seicane doesn't seem to understand the issue, even after I sent them a video of how it's behaving.
- Fader is not working. I do have left/right, but when I move fader to rear, everything goes quiet. It seems front and rear are combined, because full front has sound coming from all speakers. That's not a deal breaker since I generally listen to podcasts, and not music.
Just knowing there's someone else out there with similar issue(s) is comforting.
Seicane = Bad Customer Service, No Support after they have your money
I purchased a Seicane Nav/Radio Unit back in June 2018, and from day 1 the Parrot Bluetooth module I paid extra for has never worked. Did everything recommended, used their BT apk, tried setting up via Phone apk, changed name of BT module, change passcode to 0000, 1234, 01234, but it never saw my BT enable Phone or Tablet that was within 2 foot of the Head Unit, nor did my phone or tablet ever see the Head Unit.
I have been going back and forth with Seicane, and after 3 months got them to send me a replacement BT Module. They shipped me an unmarked module that does not even look like its Bluetooth other than the 10 pins at the bottom of it for mounting. Oh, no instructions, no explanations, nor did they tell me the Head Unit needed to be COMPLETELY disassembled to get at the existing BT module. Once opened it was apparent that the module was soldered in requiring de-soldering of the old, and soldering in the new. Problem was while inspecting how to do this I found 3 SMD resistors on the main board that were damaged during manufacturing, so now I know why the BT never worked! I assume they knew it also, and that is why they sent me the replacement module knowing that if I opened the case, the factory warrantee was then void. So now they want me to spend $60 to ship the Head Unit back to them in China, and of course, they will void the warrantee and change me $60 to get it back.......NEVER AGAIN WITH SEICANE.................
Seicane:
CPU: 8 core 64-bit CPU Coretex-A53 @ 1.5G
Memory: 3891
Kernel Version: 4.4.93+ [email protected] #263 Wed May 9 09:36:56 CST 2018
Build Number: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 end.hct.20180515.095719 test-keys
MCU Version: MTCE_KLD_V2.80_1 Mar 1 2018 16:54:22
Model: px5(800x480)
Android version: 8.0.0
Android security patch level: October 5, 2017
I have similar problems, i thought that only the "XRC" units (MTCE_XRC_...) ones had the problem with WiFi and Bluetooth not working sometimes when you start.
From what i saw, a restart sometimes fixes it.
Somebody said that entering into recovery and then restarting seems to always fix the issue, but it's still annoying.
Until somebody finds a "real" solution, we're stuck with restarting the unit if the WiFi/BT doesn't work.
You could try using an USB adapter for the WiFi and Bluetooth, the ones i had (for my PC) didn't work, probably we need something designed for Android.
P.S. the problem is not from custom ROMs, it does the same with the ROM that it came with.
Well, that's not very promising. I initiated the refund/return process for mine with Amazon. I have about 10 days left before the return window closes. So glad I bought from AZ vs. AliExpress or directly from Seicane.
There's another seller of the PX5 (Hizpo) that is custom fit to my Tundra, but uses the button-less trim. I'm hoping that it doesn't have this issue.
On an aside, I figured out why my APKs wouldn't side-load. Under settings/car/factory defaults/other is a setting called "install apps" which was set to disabled. Switching it to enabled allowed me to install all my favorite 'patched' apks. Unfortunately, the intermittent wifi/BT is a deal breaker. I'm hoping Seicane can come up with a fix/workaround suggestion in the coming days - else, this one is getting picked up by the big brown truck.
verszipo said:
I have similar problems, i thought that only the "XRC" units (MTCE_XRC_...) ones had the problem with WiFi and Bluetooth not working sometimes when you start.
From what i saw, a restart sometimes fixes it.
Somebody said that entering into recovery and then restarting seems to always fix the issue, but it's still annoying.
Until somebody finds a "real" solution, we're stuck with restarting the unit if the WiFi/BT doesn't work.
You could try using an USB adapter for the WiFi and Bluetooth, the ones i had (for my PC) didn't work, probably we need something designed for Android.
P.S. the problem is not from custom ROMs, it does the same with the ROM that it came with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
psyko_chewbacca said:
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've got that Hizpo arriving on Wed. If it has the same issue running stock (as the Seicane XRC) does, then I'll be happy to give the WU725B adapter a go. I just wonder why there aren't more people complaining about this phenomenon given the popularity of the PX5 systems.
psyko_chewbacca said:
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be interested to know if this works. I found a thread where others have done that to fix BT call issues. Apparently it's not just plug and play in most cases.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ons-development/bluetooth-usb-dongle-t3684383
Same unit, different issues...
Hazard15301 said:
I'd be interested to know if this works. I found a thread where others have done that to fix BT call issues. Apparently it's not just plug and play in most cases.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ons-development/bluetooth-usb-dongle-t3684383
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I think I have the same unit - I too had issues with Bluetooth, but after a factory reset it seemed to behave itself. The only downside is the hardware buttons on the facia (its a merc slk 200 type facia) are now not working! navi, setup, BT, 1-6, power etc all not responding. I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to the hardware side of these android head units - am I missing some sort of interface APK that helps the hardware buttons talk to the android OS?
Sorry for thread jacking, but I'm starting to get a bad feeling - I purchased from seicane direclty and so far, the support feels like one guy doing it after he gats back from the factory...
For ref I took some pics and a video of the issue - any hints?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRrc69Qr3CpFaTq7A
I believe it MTCE_MX2_V2.94_1 on 8 core 64-bit coretex-A53 @ 1.5Ghz
px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007
xboson said:
Hi,
I think I have the same unit - I too had issues with Bluetooth, but after a factory reset it seemed to behave itself. The only downside is the hardware buttons on the facia (its a merc slk 200 type facia) are now not working! navi, setup, BT, 1-6, power etc all not responding. I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to the hardware side of these android head units - am I missing some sort of interface APK that helps the hardware buttons talk to the android OS?
Sorry for thread jacking, but I'm starting to get a bad feeling - I purchased from seicane direclty and so far, the support feels like one guy doing it after he gats back from the factory...
For ref I took some pics and a video of the issue - any hints?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRrc69Qr3CpFaTq7A
I believe it MTCE_MX2_V2.94_1 on 8 core 64-bit coretex-A53 @ 1.5Ghz
px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to go into the Factory Settings menu, under the Panel Key Study header and manually set all your physical buttons
Hazard15301 said:
You need to go into the Factory Settings menu, under the Panel Key Study header and manually set all your physical buttons
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Yep - tried that - a couple of times (factory settings code 126) - tried reset and panel key study - nothing appears on screen. Tried waiting a minute or two but no dice. I'll try again just to be sure and report back.
---------- Post added at 10:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:52 PM ----------
xboson said:
Hi,
Yep - tried that - a couple of times (factory settings code 126) - tried reset and panel key study - nothing appears on screen. Tried waiting a minute or two but no dice. I'll try again just to be sure and report back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep - so just tried that page again - waitied about a minute and a half - nothing showed up - blank page & no response to any hardware buttons on the facia - the canbus based steering wheel answer, hangup and volume controls work as expected. So it should just detect the hardware buttons no issue? No special apk needed?
erkme73 said:
I've got that Hizpo arriving on Wed. If it has the same issue running stock (as the Seicane XRC) does, then I'll be happy to give the WU725B adapter a go. I just wonder why there aren't more people complaining about this phenomenon given the popularity of the PX5 systems.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The new hizpo unit worked GREAT! No dropouts. Well, at least not for the first 10 min... After that the screen went dark. Resetting and power-cycling made it beep and the buttons illuminated green for about 2 seconds... But that was it.
I did an exchange through Amazon and the replacement arrived today. On power up, no wifi or BT. ARG. I did a power-cycle, and both came back. I went to vehicle several more times during they day/evening, and despite cold booting, wifi resumed each time. Fingers crossed, but I'm guessing it will disappoint me soon.
I sent a message to the seller asking for stock MCU and firmware images, but I'm sure that will be met with crickets.
Will update if anything changes.
That didn't take long. Got in truck this am to find no wifi. Took FOUR resets for it to finally wake the wifi/bt. Really frustrating. Took a video and sent it to the Amazon seller (JBY TECH) asking what I need to do to get a functioning unit. If I do another exchange it'll be the third unit. This sucks.
Wish I could get a non-XRC unit that fits my Sequoia.
Growing more frustrated and impatient by the day, I opted to remove the back of the radio (which leaves the factory warranty seal intact) to get a better view of the wifi/bt components. The thing is tiny - smaller than a postage stamp. It appears to be soldered directly to the main board at 8 points - though the ones on the left are hard to identify due to the hot-glue applied to the antenna wire connection point. These points are not surface-mount sized. A steady hand with a standard iron should be able to comfortably resolder these connections. I would attempt it if out of warranty and all other options have been exhausted.
I did push down on each joint before re-assembling the unit. After several power-cycles, WIFI/BT remain on. The acid test will be in the AM. I am reluctant to even post this now, as I don't want to jinx it. I will post updates as they happen.
erkme73 said:
Growing more frustrated and impatient by the day, I opted to remove the back of the radio (which leaves the factory warranty seal intact) to get a better view of the wifi/bt components. The thing is tiny - smaller than a postage stamp. It appears to be soldered directly to the main board at 8 points - though the ones on the left are hard to identify due to the hot-glue applied to the antenna wire connection point. These points are not surface-mount sized. A steady hand with a standard iron should be able to comfortably resolder these connections. I would attempt it if out of warranty and all other options have been exhausted.
I did push down on each joint before re-assembling the unit. After several power-cycles, WIFI/BT remain on. The acid test will be in the AM. I am reluctant to even post this now, as I don't want to jinx it. I will post updates as they happen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The seller of my radio thinks I have a bad chip as well. He's sending me a new chip, should be here monday. So I'll be doing this exact procedure when it gets here. I think someone else said there's ten total solder points, and two are real close together and very easy to short together.
I was wondering why it is that wifi and bt will remain functional across short term sleep cycles, but only seems to act up when left in sleep overnight (at least that's how it works in my case). Not sure if that points to a software or hardware issue.
Hazard15301 said:
The seller of my radio thinks I have a bad chip as well. He's sending me a new chip, should be here monday. So I'll be doing this exact procedure when it gets here. I think someone else said there's ten total solder points, and two are real close together and very easy to short together.
I was wondering why it is that wifi and bt will remain functional across short term sleep cycles, but only seems to act up when left in sleep overnight (at least that's how it works in my case). Not sure if that points to a software or hardware issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm no engineer, but if I unplug all wires from the back of the radio and leave it de-energized for an hour, I would think that any residual electrons would be gone - or at least comparable to an overnight connected shut down. The fact that it still works after that hour makes me think it's hardware.
The one variable that changes overnight is temperature. The unit cools down completely overnight, and by morning the symptoms return. I suppose I could take the radio and put it in the freezer/refrigerator for a few hours and see if recurs.
If it is temp, that would lend credence to poor electrical connections - with the most likely suspect being the hand-soldered points (not the SM-ed board components). Admittedly, it's a stretch.
If your seller has OK'ed the replacement of your board, if I were you, I'd practice with the old one and re-solder those 8-10 points.
I recall reading posts elsewhere stating that keeping pressure on that board resolved the issue (one guy wrote about using tape!).
I just received word from the seller that they suspect the "core board" to be the problem. They want me to open the case and unplug/replug it to see if that resolves it. I've attached their photo. If it does not solve the problem, they suggest replacing it, and they provided a link to the latest XRC firmware (XRC8.0_20180510). I'm downloading it now.
Looks like when daylight comes, I'll be doing some vendor-approved dissection...
New daylight, and with permission to disassemble, I managed to get a better picture of the wifi/bt module. Unless there are pins underneath the board, it really looks like 8 connections.
I removed the 'core board' and replaced it. No wifi/bt. After third power-cycle it came up.
I really think this is temperature-related. By the 2nd or 3rd reboot, the electronics have warmed up and it starts working. Now I have to wait until it gets back to ambient temp to do more testing. To prove this theory, I've placed it in my freezer. I'll give this a go in about 30 min. If it stop working again, I think that would be pretty conclusive. Will update as I proceed.
After leaving the unit in the freezer for 30 minutes, the wifi/bt once again stopped responding. In fact, it stayed off for about 5-10 minutes (regardless of the number of power-cycles/resets). I even held down on the wifi chip and it made no difference. Only after it had completely thawed out and warmed up did it re-enable.
I'm going to relay this back to the seller. FWIW, since they provided me with a factory rom and MCU image, I took this chance to install the Hal9k rom. WOW is that worth it...
erkme73 said:
I just received word from the seller that they suspect the "core board" to be the problem. They want me to open the case and unplug/replug it to see if that resolves it. I've attached their photo. If it does not solve the problem, they suggest replacing it, and they provided a link to the latest XRC firmware (XRC8.0_20180510). I'm downloading it now.
Looks like when daylight comes, I'll be doing some vendor-approved dissection...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you upload the MCU update image?
Interesting stuff about the temperature. Quite frankly I had this ruled out since rebooting through recovery fixes the issue 100% of the time while normal reboots only works sporadically. I was under the impression that the issue was related to the MCU or some other component not waking up the device from sleep when unit wakes up.
Hi folks, the bottom 10% of the digitizer panel on my Joying JY-UL134N2 10.1 screen has failed, just the very bottom edge of the screen area has failed ie enough to cover the bottom line of the screen keyboard.
I "think" its an FYT unit.
Joying support will be no use and wont care about helping as it is out of warranty, all they will care to do is to try to sell me a complete new stereo.
Can anyone suggest a source for a replacement part? Seems a shame to scrap a good sofia 3gr unit just for this when I could give it to a friend otherwise.
One last try, anyone able to help?
mindriot said:
One last try, anyone able to help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought 8in digitizer on aliexpress for $15 only. Would something like this work for you.
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/3UtymoY
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Thanks, its similar (same soft buttons down left side) but not the same.
The Joying one has a near identical ribbon at the bottom but near the left end, its perfectly rectangular with rounded corners and the mic, power and reset pinholes are located differently. I should try to get a pic up.
Basically its this : https://www.amazon.ca/JOYING-Marshmallow-1024x600-Bluetooth-Navigation/dp/B01MTS75RS
Im sure a while back I saw some discussion on replacements of the same type but I cant find that info now.
I've got a 7 inch one from a failed Joying unit in my garage (never again). Send a picture of the cable connection and I'll see if it matches.
Thanks but wouldnt that require most of a case change as well as full screen assembly surely, assuming the board and so on fit?
I know what you mean Ill never pay another penny to joying, shameful attitude to support.
Its not a very good pic.
Does that whole thing not have a cable that connects to the head-unit - that's what I was expecting.
It does, a white ribbon cable, i dont know the pin count, i think the design changed at lest once for that cable on these units.
I can try to get a pic next couple of days and post it.
I havent forgotten about this, been busy with work, ill try to get the pic up this weekend.
Err delete sorry!
Anyone find a solution to this? I have something similar, I have an 8" that has a crack in the screen. Much like original poster said Joying has no interest in finding a replacement, I figure while I am at it I would like to go up to the 10.1 cause I know my 8" and my 10.1" use the same connector and mount. But I am surprised how hard it is to find a replacement screen, would really appreciate any input
Hi guys,
Complete and utter noob when it comes to most of these things but XDA have helped me out many times so I'm hoping somebody can at least guide me in the right direction here.
I have an android aftermarket unit in my BMW X5 e70 (came with the car so details are vague) that has never worked.
I can see the android screen just about (clearer in some light than in others) and vaguely make out the BMW idrive behind the android screen, as if they're overlaying one another.
I've attached a video to try and demonstrate what's happening.
https://imgur.com/a/OV4bFRd
Basically, is this unit screwed or is there anything I can try and do to save it, reflash any firmware the MCU? Reflow a couple of chips maybe? (I assume this is not caused simply by something being loose but I am about to check all connections) I'm in a but if a rush because if it can't be saved I need to order a replacement ASAP to get it fitted before the car is due in the garage for some warranty work (this is not covered unfortunately)
Many thanks in advance!
Try calibration of screen, search the net for how to calibrate for that unit. Usually it is activated by pressing each finger on every corner of touch screen till see calibration windows and guidance for completion.