I installed Joying android headunit(RK3188 1024*600) myself. and it was working great.
I also wired reverse camera and steering wheel remote. that was all fine.
but today, when I shift to reverse gear, the headunit display going off and never return without reset button.
Same phenomenon appeared with ILLUMINATE function.
when I turn on the light, display going off.
but headunit was still working. it plays music.
Any solution of this problem?
Sorry for my bad english. Thanks
leeehn said:
I installed Joying android headunit(RK3188 1024*600) myself. and it was working great.
I also wired reverse camera and steering wheel remote. that was all fine.
but today, when I shift to reverse gear, the headunit display going off and never return without reset button.
Same phenomenon appeared with ILLUMINATE function.
when I turn on the light, display going off.
but headunit was still working. it plays music.
Any solution of this problem?
Sorry for my bad english. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How long it worked fine? If ever?
If it worked and now don't, it looks like something got busted in MCU electronics.
I read on net that line from reverse line ght, which activates camera, may introduce overload on some components in MCU. Can't find link right now, but guy was complaining that his camera connector gets hot from prolonged use indicating huge current passing. And as camera is on-chip and cannot get so large current (even with poorest Chinese design there is nothing more than chip inside so there is no possibility of current drain) the current has to flow into MCU side. So I was concerned by that and decided to rethink about that setup. I plan to measure current to MCU and eve to put 1A fuse on reverse light line (that powers camera and goes back to MCU) so I protect both NCU and car from overheating / overload.
Check your setup. Measure reversing current to MCU. If not us high then something is wrong in your MCU. May be just poor / ghost contact (crossover to ground / chassis as I noticed sloppy soldering all around).
pa.ko said:
How long it worked fine? If ever?
If it worked and now don't, it looks like something got busted in MCU electronics.
I read on net that line from reverse line ght, which activates camera, may introduce overload on some components in MCU. Can't find link right now, but guy was complaining that his camera connector gets hot from prolonged use indicating huge current passing. And as camera is on-chip and cannot get so large current (even with poorest Chinese design there is nothing more than chip inside so there is no possibility of current drain) the current has to flow into MCU side. So I was concerned by that and decided to rethink about that setup. I plan to measure current to MCU and eve to put 1A fuse on reverse light line (that powers camera and goes back to MCU) so I protect both NCU and car from overheating / overload.
Check your setup. Measure reversing current to MCU. If not us high then something is wrong in your MCU. May be just poor / ghost contact (crossover to ground / chassis as I noticed sloppy soldering all around).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply. My headunit has worked about 2 weeks. I will check my current of my reverse signal wire.
If current is high(how much criteria for high current?), I will make a circuit to avoid high current using relay.
Anyway, I broke up my headunit. I wish the seller give me a A/S. Thanks again.
I recorded my headunit.
youtu.be/TQIahfupdE8
leeehn said:
Thanks for your reply. My headunit has worked about 2 weeks. I will check my current of my reverse signal wire.
If current is high(how much criteria for high current?), I will make a circuit to avoid high current using relay.
Anyway, I broke up my headunit. I wish the seller give me a A/S. Thanks again.
I recorded my headunit.
youtu.be/TQIahfupdE8
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will assume that anything above 10mA is high for reverse current (in fact, if it is properly done it should be almost 0!). Relay will not solve the problem - it will just redirect current not from reverse light but from other source. You have to use current regulation... But then it is question if it will work at all...
Yes, first you have to fix the unit. Then try to check connectors and wiring inside unit for any wrong contacts that may leak current. That is, probably if not catastrophic Chinese design by itself, the most probable cause of current leakage. An if leaks somewhere not directly to the ground, then it is overloading some circuitry...
pa.ko said:
I will assume that anything above 10mA is high for reverse current (in fact, if it is properly done it should be almost 0!). Relay will not solve the problem - it will just redirect current not from reverse light but from other source. You have to use current regulation... But then it is question if it will work at all...
Yes, first you have to fix the unit. Then try to check connectors and wiring inside unit for any wrong contacts that may leak current. That is, probably if not catastrophic Chinese design by itself, the most probable cause of current leakage. An if leaks somewhere not directly to the ground, then it is overloading some circuitry...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found a cause. The XposedMTC made problem.
When I turn on dimming feature with screen filter and I get a problem.
So I didn't install XposedMTC application and no more display issue.
Thanks for helping me!
leeehn said:
I found a cause. The XposedMTC made problem.
When I turn on dimming feature with screen filter and I get a problem.
So I didn't install XposedMTC application and no more display issue.
Thanks for helping me!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great! I'm happy it is not a HW issue for you! Also, thank you for update.
BTW I also had a problem with XposedMTC module. After your confirmation of the issue, I will definitely disable it for good!
Hello,
Same issue here with my huifei , but even with xposed disabled still have the reverse gear to switch off the display
Regards
eexray
eexray said:
Hello,
Same issue here with my huifei , but even with xposed disabled still have the reverse gear to switch off the display
Regards
eexray
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I performed full wipe of my headunit and re-install rom on a recovery mode.
Maybe you cannot see anything in recovery mode but you can enter the mode and assume the cursor.
leeehn said:
I performed full wipe of my headunit and re-install rom on a recovery mode.
Maybe you cannot see anything in recovery mode but you can enter the mode and assume the cursor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In fact When I try to put the unit in recovery mode my screen is off, after a minute or so it shows the logo ( Audi) and the unit starts.
Tried to install A rom from rockchip batch toll but even installing rom I still have the same issues. No recovery on the screen, and the issue with the reverse gear
Assuming that even with no screen I can go to recovey, 'will try to full wipe. Must check the steps to do it with no screen.
Many thanks
eexray
eexray said:
In fact When I try to put the unit in recovery mode my screen is off, after a minute or so it shows the logo ( Audi) and the unit starts.
Tried to install A rom from rockchip batch toll but even installing rom I still have the same issues. No recovery on the screen, and the issue with the reverse gear
Assuming that even with no screen I can go to recovey, 'will try to full wipe. Must check the steps to do it with no screen.
Many thanks
eexray
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got the same problem and I'm almost sure it has to do with XposedMTC. Maybe it hasn't been uninstalled correctly. Have you been able to reset in recovery mode without the screen? Also when I try so get into recovery, my hard buttons blink white
Hi,
There's an issue that has been mildly bugging me since I have had my Android Head Unit. Just wondering if I'm the only one or if this is a known issue.
Sometime when starting the car and the Head Unit powers up, the bluetooth and Wifi radios are not working. My phone cannot connect via bluetooth and the Wifi activation slider in the Wifi Setting menu will not move to the "activated" position.
Usually, a full system restart fixes the issue but I've had occurence where a second reboot in a row is necessary!
This has been going since I have had the unit. I didn't stay on stock ROM for long as I moved to Malaysk first and now using Hal9k ROM. Both ROMs exhibit the same issue. Point is I don't know if the stock ROM had this issue.
Head Unit is equipped with a MD725 version 1 radio module.
Does somebody have a workaround (other than rebooting)?
Thanks!
EDIT: Please check this post for a detailed explanation of the cause of the problem, the resolution process and finally provides fixes for it.
psyko_chewbacca said:
Hi,
There's an issue that has been mildly bugging me since I have had my Android Head Unit. Just wondering if I'm the only one or if this is a known issue.
Sometime when starting the car and the Head Unit powers up, the bluetooth and Wifi radios are not working. My phone cannot connect via bluetooth and the Wifi activation slider in the Wifi Setting menu will not move to the "activated" position.
Usually, a full system restart fixes the issue but I've had occurence where a second reboot in a row is necessary!
This has been going since I have had the unit. I didn't stay on stock ROM for long as I moved to Malaysk first and now using Hal9k ROM. Both ROMs exhibit the same issue. Point is I don't know if the stock ROM had this issue.
Head Unit is equipped with a MD725 version 1 radio module.
Does somebody have a workaround (other than rebooting)?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How disappointing to see that no one has replied. I purchased a Seicane unit from an Amazon seller two weeks ago, and among the things I noticed immediately was the frequent, seemingly random WIFI/BT disconnect. As you described, it happens when waking up. Either pressing the reset button or holding the power button for >5 seconds has returned their functionality every time (so far). But, in corresponding with Seicane, they act like it's the first time they've heard of it. They want to replace the WIFI module. But, I'm sure that'll take weeks, and by the time it gets here, I'm outside the return window with Amazon.
I'm fully stock, and I really like the fit and finish in my Tundra.
Can I thread-jack and ask you some questions to see if you have other issues like me?
- Google account sync is missing calendar (and chrome too, for that matter). That means any calendar app (stock or 3rd party) cannot access events. Do you see calendar under settings/accounts/google/sync?
- Side-loading apks is a no-go. Whether I use file manager, or the default "Apk-installer", when I try to install an APK (even OEM legit ones on the internal memory), I get a momentary flash of "package install.." then right back to the file list. Seicane doesn't seem to understand the issue, even after I sent them a video of how it's behaving.
- Fader is not working. I do have left/right, but when I move fader to rear, everything goes quiet. It seems front and rear are combined, because full front has sound coming from all speakers. That's not a deal breaker since I generally listen to podcasts, and not music.
Just knowing there's someone else out there with similar issue(s) is comforting.
Seicane = Bad Customer Service, No Support after they have your money
I purchased a Seicane Nav/Radio Unit back in June 2018, and from day 1 the Parrot Bluetooth module I paid extra for has never worked. Did everything recommended, used their BT apk, tried setting up via Phone apk, changed name of BT module, change passcode to 0000, 1234, 01234, but it never saw my BT enable Phone or Tablet that was within 2 foot of the Head Unit, nor did my phone or tablet ever see the Head Unit.
I have been going back and forth with Seicane, and after 3 months got them to send me a replacement BT Module. They shipped me an unmarked module that does not even look like its Bluetooth other than the 10 pins at the bottom of it for mounting. Oh, no instructions, no explanations, nor did they tell me the Head Unit needed to be COMPLETELY disassembled to get at the existing BT module. Once opened it was apparent that the module was soldered in requiring de-soldering of the old, and soldering in the new. Problem was while inspecting how to do this I found 3 SMD resistors on the main board that were damaged during manufacturing, so now I know why the BT never worked! I assume they knew it also, and that is why they sent me the replacement module knowing that if I opened the case, the factory warrantee was then void. So now they want me to spend $60 to ship the Head Unit back to them in China, and of course, they will void the warrantee and change me $60 to get it back.......NEVER AGAIN WITH SEICANE.................
Seicane:
CPU: 8 core 64-bit CPU Coretex-A53 @ 1.5G
Memory: 3891
Kernel Version: 4.4.93+ [email protected] #263 Wed May 9 09:36:56 CST 2018
Build Number: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 end.hct.20180515.095719 test-keys
MCU Version: MTCE_KLD_V2.80_1 Mar 1 2018 16:54:22
Model: px5(800x480)
Android version: 8.0.0
Android security patch level: October 5, 2017
I have similar problems, i thought that only the "XRC" units (MTCE_XRC_...) ones had the problem with WiFi and Bluetooth not working sometimes when you start.
From what i saw, a restart sometimes fixes it.
Somebody said that entering into recovery and then restarting seems to always fix the issue, but it's still annoying.
Until somebody finds a "real" solution, we're stuck with restarting the unit if the WiFi/BT doesn't work.
You could try using an USB adapter for the WiFi and Bluetooth, the ones i had (for my PC) didn't work, probably we need something designed for Android.
P.S. the problem is not from custom ROMs, it does the same with the ROM that it came with.
Well, that's not very promising. I initiated the refund/return process for mine with Amazon. I have about 10 days left before the return window closes. So glad I bought from AZ vs. AliExpress or directly from Seicane.
There's another seller of the PX5 (Hizpo) that is custom fit to my Tundra, but uses the button-less trim. I'm hoping that it doesn't have this issue.
On an aside, I figured out why my APKs wouldn't side-load. Under settings/car/factory defaults/other is a setting called "install apps" which was set to disabled. Switching it to enabled allowed me to install all my favorite 'patched' apks. Unfortunately, the intermittent wifi/BT is a deal breaker. I'm hoping Seicane can come up with a fix/workaround suggestion in the coming days - else, this one is getting picked up by the big brown truck.
verszipo said:
I have similar problems, i thought that only the "XRC" units (MTCE_XRC_...) ones had the problem with WiFi and Bluetooth not working sometimes when you start.
From what i saw, a restart sometimes fixes it.
Somebody said that entering into recovery and then restarting seems to always fix the issue, but it's still annoying.
Until somebody finds a "real" solution, we're stuck with restarting the unit if the WiFi/BT doesn't work.
You could try using an USB adapter for the WiFi and Bluetooth, the ones i had (for my PC) didn't work, probably we need something designed for Android.
P.S. the problem is not from custom ROMs, it does the same with the ROM that it came with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
psyko_chewbacca said:
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've got that Hizpo arriving on Wed. If it has the same issue running stock (as the Seicane XRC) does, then I'll be happy to give the WU725B adapter a go. I just wonder why there aren't more people complaining about this phenomenon given the popularity of the PX5 systems.
psyko_chewbacca said:
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be interested to know if this works. I found a thread where others have done that to fix BT call issues. Apparently it's not just plug and play in most cases.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ons-development/bluetooth-usb-dongle-t3684383
Same unit, different issues...
Hazard15301 said:
I'd be interested to know if this works. I found a thread where others have done that to fix BT call issues. Apparently it's not just plug and play in most cases.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ons-development/bluetooth-usb-dongle-t3684383
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I think I have the same unit - I too had issues with Bluetooth, but after a factory reset it seemed to behave itself. The only downside is the hardware buttons on the facia (its a merc slk 200 type facia) are now not working! navi, setup, BT, 1-6, power etc all not responding. I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to the hardware side of these android head units - am I missing some sort of interface APK that helps the hardware buttons talk to the android OS?
Sorry for thread jacking, but I'm starting to get a bad feeling - I purchased from seicane direclty and so far, the support feels like one guy doing it after he gats back from the factory...
For ref I took some pics and a video of the issue - any hints?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRrc69Qr3CpFaTq7A
I believe it MTCE_MX2_V2.94_1 on 8 core 64-bit coretex-A53 @ 1.5Ghz
px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007
xboson said:
Hi,
I think I have the same unit - I too had issues with Bluetooth, but after a factory reset it seemed to behave itself. The only downside is the hardware buttons on the facia (its a merc slk 200 type facia) are now not working! navi, setup, BT, 1-6, power etc all not responding. I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to the hardware side of these android head units - am I missing some sort of interface APK that helps the hardware buttons talk to the android OS?
Sorry for thread jacking, but I'm starting to get a bad feeling - I purchased from seicane direclty and so far, the support feels like one guy doing it after he gats back from the factory...
For ref I took some pics and a video of the issue - any hints?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRrc69Qr3CpFaTq7A
I believe it MTCE_MX2_V2.94_1 on 8 core 64-bit coretex-A53 @ 1.5Ghz
px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to go into the Factory Settings menu, under the Panel Key Study header and manually set all your physical buttons
Hazard15301 said:
You need to go into the Factory Settings menu, under the Panel Key Study header and manually set all your physical buttons
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Yep - tried that - a couple of times (factory settings code 126) - tried reset and panel key study - nothing appears on screen. Tried waiting a minute or two but no dice. I'll try again just to be sure and report back.
---------- Post added at 10:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:52 PM ----------
xboson said:
Hi,
Yep - tried that - a couple of times (factory settings code 126) - tried reset and panel key study - nothing appears on screen. Tried waiting a minute or two but no dice. I'll try again just to be sure and report back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep - so just tried that page again - waitied about a minute and a half - nothing showed up - blank page & no response to any hardware buttons on the facia - the canbus based steering wheel answer, hangup and volume controls work as expected. So it should just detect the hardware buttons no issue? No special apk needed?
erkme73 said:
I've got that Hizpo arriving on Wed. If it has the same issue running stock (as the Seicane XRC) does, then I'll be happy to give the WU725B adapter a go. I just wonder why there aren't more people complaining about this phenomenon given the popularity of the PX5 systems.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The new hizpo unit worked GREAT! No dropouts. Well, at least not for the first 10 min... After that the screen went dark. Resetting and power-cycling made it beep and the buttons illuminated green for about 2 seconds... But that was it.
I did an exchange through Amazon and the replacement arrived today. On power up, no wifi or BT. ARG. I did a power-cycle, and both came back. I went to vehicle several more times during they day/evening, and despite cold booting, wifi resumed each time. Fingers crossed, but I'm guessing it will disappoint me soon.
I sent a message to the seller asking for stock MCU and firmware images, but I'm sure that will be met with crickets.
Will update if anything changes.
That didn't take long. Got in truck this am to find no wifi. Took FOUR resets for it to finally wake the wifi/bt. Really frustrating. Took a video and sent it to the Amazon seller (JBY TECH) asking what I need to do to get a functioning unit. If I do another exchange it'll be the third unit. This sucks.
Wish I could get a non-XRC unit that fits my Sequoia.
Growing more frustrated and impatient by the day, I opted to remove the back of the radio (which leaves the factory warranty seal intact) to get a better view of the wifi/bt components. The thing is tiny - smaller than a postage stamp. It appears to be soldered directly to the main board at 8 points - though the ones on the left are hard to identify due to the hot-glue applied to the antenna wire connection point. These points are not surface-mount sized. A steady hand with a standard iron should be able to comfortably resolder these connections. I would attempt it if out of warranty and all other options have been exhausted.
I did push down on each joint before re-assembling the unit. After several power-cycles, WIFI/BT remain on. The acid test will be in the AM. I am reluctant to even post this now, as I don't want to jinx it. I will post updates as they happen.
erkme73 said:
Growing more frustrated and impatient by the day, I opted to remove the back of the radio (which leaves the factory warranty seal intact) to get a better view of the wifi/bt components. The thing is tiny - smaller than a postage stamp. It appears to be soldered directly to the main board at 8 points - though the ones on the left are hard to identify due to the hot-glue applied to the antenna wire connection point. These points are not surface-mount sized. A steady hand with a standard iron should be able to comfortably resolder these connections. I would attempt it if out of warranty and all other options have been exhausted.
I did push down on each joint before re-assembling the unit. After several power-cycles, WIFI/BT remain on. The acid test will be in the AM. I am reluctant to even post this now, as I don't want to jinx it. I will post updates as they happen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The seller of my radio thinks I have a bad chip as well. He's sending me a new chip, should be here monday. So I'll be doing this exact procedure when it gets here. I think someone else said there's ten total solder points, and two are real close together and very easy to short together.
I was wondering why it is that wifi and bt will remain functional across short term sleep cycles, but only seems to act up when left in sleep overnight (at least that's how it works in my case). Not sure if that points to a software or hardware issue.
Hazard15301 said:
The seller of my radio thinks I have a bad chip as well. He's sending me a new chip, should be here monday. So I'll be doing this exact procedure when it gets here. I think someone else said there's ten total solder points, and two are real close together and very easy to short together.
I was wondering why it is that wifi and bt will remain functional across short term sleep cycles, but only seems to act up when left in sleep overnight (at least that's how it works in my case). Not sure if that points to a software or hardware issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm no engineer, but if I unplug all wires from the back of the radio and leave it de-energized for an hour, I would think that any residual electrons would be gone - or at least comparable to an overnight connected shut down. The fact that it still works after that hour makes me think it's hardware.
The one variable that changes overnight is temperature. The unit cools down completely overnight, and by morning the symptoms return. I suppose I could take the radio and put it in the freezer/refrigerator for a few hours and see if recurs.
If it is temp, that would lend credence to poor electrical connections - with the most likely suspect being the hand-soldered points (not the SM-ed board components). Admittedly, it's a stretch.
If your seller has OK'ed the replacement of your board, if I were you, I'd practice with the old one and re-solder those 8-10 points.
I recall reading posts elsewhere stating that keeping pressure on that board resolved the issue (one guy wrote about using tape!).
I just received word from the seller that they suspect the "core board" to be the problem. They want me to open the case and unplug/replug it to see if that resolves it. I've attached their photo. If it does not solve the problem, they suggest replacing it, and they provided a link to the latest XRC firmware (XRC8.0_20180510). I'm downloading it now.
Looks like when daylight comes, I'll be doing some vendor-approved dissection...
New daylight, and with permission to disassemble, I managed to get a better picture of the wifi/bt module. Unless there are pins underneath the board, it really looks like 8 connections.
I removed the 'core board' and replaced it. No wifi/bt. After third power-cycle it came up.
I really think this is temperature-related. By the 2nd or 3rd reboot, the electronics have warmed up and it starts working. Now I have to wait until it gets back to ambient temp to do more testing. To prove this theory, I've placed it in my freezer. I'll give this a go in about 30 min. If it stop working again, I think that would be pretty conclusive. Will update as I proceed.
After leaving the unit in the freezer for 30 minutes, the wifi/bt once again stopped responding. In fact, it stayed off for about 5-10 minutes (regardless of the number of power-cycles/resets). I even held down on the wifi chip and it made no difference. Only after it had completely thawed out and warmed up did it re-enable.
I'm going to relay this back to the seller. FWIW, since they provided me with a factory rom and MCU image, I took this chance to install the Hal9k rom. WOW is that worth it...
erkme73 said:
I just received word from the seller that they suspect the "core board" to be the problem. They want me to open the case and unplug/replug it to see if that resolves it. I've attached their photo. If it does not solve the problem, they suggest replacing it, and they provided a link to the latest XRC firmware (XRC8.0_20180510). I'm downloading it now.
Looks like when daylight comes, I'll be doing some vendor-approved dissection...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you upload the MCU update image?
Interesting stuff about the temperature. Quite frankly I had this ruled out since rebooting through recovery fixes the issue 100% of the time while normal reboots only works sporadically. I was under the impression that the issue was related to the MCU or some other component not waking up the device from sleep when unit wakes up.
Hi all.
I came across a dead Joying Sofia 1 Din 10.1 device (with SOM FYT6021) recently and would like to ask for support to maybe get it back to live. Do not know exact type of device as model ID is left empty on the device label. Did some research on the web and in the forum already, but without success ...
Device is totally dead. No output on the screen, no backlight on the buttons, nothing. Already tried to reset via button - but nothing happened. Tried to measure power output on USB pinout - but there is nothing.
Anything else I can do ? Any tips how to proceed or what else to measure?
Thx & regards,
Oli
Joying Sofia models are by now 2 or more years old. If we take the Chinese build quality into account, it can very well just be dead: end of life.
but one thing to always try is the fuse in the back side of the radio. Is that one still OK?
Direct hit :good: Was simply missing :crying: Was not aware due to missing model type & documentation. Along with a white screen issue, some touch issues and screen buttons not working at all, I was finally able to get it back to live by reseating cable and recalibration of touch panel.
Now I have a light white border around the whole screen which seems to get mostly away the longer the device is running. Any ideas ?
Besides that - nice device. Need to play around a bit with it and maybe install a custom rom ...
Are there replacement digitizer panel's available on the market ? I have a crack in the upper left corner which is not yet impacting the usability, but if there is a replacement available I might replace it … In addition would be nice to know if upgrade SOM (FYT6026) is somewhere available fore upgrade ? I only found FYT6021 on aliexpress …
audischrauber said:
...screen buttons not working at all...
Now I have a light white border around the whole screen which seems to get mostly away the longer the device is running. Any ideas ?
Are there replacement digitizer panel's available on the market ? I have a crack in the upper left corner which is not yet impacting the usability, but if there is a replacement available I might replace it … In addition would be nice to know if upgrade SOM (FYT6026) is somewhere available fore upgrade ? I only found FYT6021 on aliexpress …
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
W.r.t. screen buttons: Somewhere in the Settings menu or Car Settings menu (can't remember anymore for the Sofia) there is a "MCU Key Panel" On/Off setting. This determines whether the on screen or hardware buttons are active.
Just contact Joying. They do have screens and motherboards. I do not know what they cost byt the way.
After having some chat's with Joying and doing a lot of research on the web I am still not any step forward
Candy from Joying is not able to provide me any spare SoM … nor a spare digitizer/glass panel for a reasonable price.
Any other ideas where to get a FYT 6026 SoM ?
What is the manufacturer of those boards ? FYT / SYU / carsql ? Can't find any web presence …
Furthermore I found some hints that there are Winca/RoadNav S200 units based on FYT as well ? But no details …
Any other ideas ?
Hello. I'm going to try to keep this short, but some backstory is required.
I purchased the Eonon GA9450B, found here, several months ago. Installed just fine, and worked for the most part. I tried to use Head Unit Reloaded, but I couldn't get it to work properly, so bought the dongle Eonon sells to be able to use Android Auto. It also did not work. Weeks of back and forth with the company lead to them sending me a file to put on a USB drive and update the firmware. It errored at 3%, more talking with them ensued, and long story short, I got a refund as well sent a new board for the radio. It finally showed up, I take the thing apart, put the new board in.
The radio boots up fine. Bluetooth works, the radio gets signal, etc. My problem is now the screen seems to be reversed. I tap on the left, it will show that I'm tapping the right side, and vice versa. It wasn't doing this previously, so I'm at a loss for what the problem could be. Because of the refund, Eonon is obviously no help with this.
Anyone have any ideas? I can attach pictures or video if needed. Googling lead me to search through the settings, but I couldn't find anything that allowed me to reverse the touch screen. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
I have this issue as well in my e46. Everything works fine except the screen is inverted. Tried full reset, hard reset, factory data rest and no change. Wondering if this can be fixed with updated firmware maybe? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I’m having the same issue on my E46. I’ve had it for 3 days Did you manage to solve the issue?
5-fingers-press on the screen at the same time. Keep fingers not moving until you get a red point in the upper left corner.
Press the red points coming up on each corner and safe the setting... done.