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Hi,
I disassembled my N1 for changing the main flex cable (cutted power button) and in the disassembling procedure I noticed that one of the SMD components on the motherboard was de-soldered or not correctly soldered (twisted). I re-accommodated with a pair of tweezers and it did not hang loose (yet!).
What kind of function does this SMD do? Can I expect the phone to work?
I have experience with soldering iron but think this is too small for me.
I can't test it right now because my new main flex has not arrived yet.
Maybe you can solder it with an oven for CMS ?
firewave said:
Maybe you can solder it with an oven for CMS ?
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Click to collapse
I'm not very familiar with oven soldering; dunno if I will kill other components or If i need some kind of flux.
Also a heat gun would do the work but probably desolder other components.
I broke off a couple of the smd components right next to that connector (the screen connection) they effect color on the screen. Mine showed only red after I broke 2. It was usable but not pretty.
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
_Dennis_ said:
I broke off a couple of the smd components right next to that connector (the screen connection) they effect color on the screen. Mine showed only red after I broke 2. It was usable but not pretty.
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your answer.
You broke those very same components?
As soon as I get my main flex i will try it and see if it report problems. It probably will as that component is there for something.
You might be able to re-flow it with a heat gun.
Rusty! said:
You might be able to re-flow it with a heat gun.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your answer.
Actually I'm looking for a chinese reflow station with a hot air gun with a tiny nozzle. Probably will do the work but...
Should I use some kind of flux? Any recommendations? Never done a hot air reflow.
Looks like the same but hard to tell in the pics. I can't really see on my phone.
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
that is a set of inline resistors, meaning it is quite a few connections, the best way is to use some flux from a needle and a soldering iron with a small tip,you could use a hot air machine but on a fully assembled board i would not recommend it.. flux is needed but you may be able to get away with a large soldering iron.
My advice would be to pay someone to fix it.. that way if they mess up ya get a new phone
Find someone with a reflow air knife, anyone who does SMT work would have one. It'd take 5 seconds to put that RP back on as long as you didn't break any of the pads doing whatever it is that you did that caused you to break it. Yikes.
May i ask you where u got the power cable? I need one too, how much was it? And is it hard to replace?
N1
I bought it on www.aliexpress.com
It was around USD$45.
I still don't receive it, as soon as I recive it I will report if the phone works and if it is an easy repair.
Best Regards.
The phone it's not turning on.
I tried it disassembled with the new main flex cable, motherboard and only lcd conencted.
Nothing happened when I press the power button.
The only sign of life is the ambar led that turns on when you connect the charger.
The tiny little SMD part fell off the mother board so it is completly unsoldered. Could this be the cause of not turning at all?
Looking forward to your answers.
Yes, if a single component is missing or even has a bridge in the solder, it could cause complete failure. There is a reason for it being there. If it were me, I would try to resolder it. Grab an iron and some wick and get what you can off of the board. Then try to reflow the part back on. If it works, great. If not, you still have a nice looking paperweight.
Well, I soldered the little SMD back with a soldering/hot air station but the motherboard still don't turn on.
It was working before, maybe I'm doing something wrong.
Thanks for your support.
Hey everyone my HTC HD2 got the Non-Responsive screen problem a week ago, & did a lot of research and found out that it was most likely a hardware problem with a cable..... So a lot of people would tell the people with the problem that the "Touch Screen Digitizer" is dead (like the cable), or it needs to be cleaned... pretty well go out and buy a new one... BUT I have never found evidence that someone has done this and it has successfully "cured" their HTC HD2 Non-Responsive touch screen problem...
So I was looking for anyone on the forums that could confirm this is a solution or give me any tips on what I should do.... AND no I don't have enough money to get a new phone, nor do I live in the USA so I can't send it in to fix it...
This is what I was going to buy for it:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-OEM-HTC-...781?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519a3d2e45
Thanks for taking the time to read my Thread, its much appreciated!! I hope I can find a fix!!
PS: If anyone wanted to know what it looks like out of curiosity I posted 3 pictures with RED circle HIGHLIGHTING the problem when I try to touch something....
My digitizer has been a bit dodgy for the past few months. It's ironic that when I finally found out what the issue was and called HTC, my factory warranty had ended exactly 4 days prior to the call.
Fast forward 3 months and my phone has now been unresponsive for 3 hours despite my prying and tweaking various hard parts.
I disassembled the phone down to the main board just to see how hard the install is, but it's a bit intimidating once it's time to start pulling all the film and ribbons. A bit too tight and small parts for my liking.
Time to hit CL to see if I can find a cheap replacement.
Good luck with your repairs. I may be following in your footsteps if I can not find a good deal.
Yeah I will see how well it goes... if anyone has useful info, i will be more than grad to hear it
Thanks
Many people attempt to replace a digitizer, but I simply don't recommend it, we see enough of do-it-yourselvers who created problems in addition to the original ones.
What I do recommend, however, and I stated it on many threads already, is to get an LCD+DIGITIZER assembly. Simply because it is easier to fit. Not saying the overall fitting is easy, always depends on your overall skill, so ensure that you are familiar with the procedure BEFORE you begin. But you will save yourself a lot of trouble by getting the whole thing, as opposed to the digitizer only for the sake of a few bucks.
However, if anyone still feels intimidated by the whole thing, I am on the lookout for working main board. Advertised a few times in the marketplace with limited success. So if anyone smashed their baby and will be looking to replace, rather than repair - drop me a PM. I am in NZ. Will pay by Paypal.
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
cheeselump said:
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How much did the set cost?
cheeselump said:
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks I will check it out, hopefully it won't be to hard and I hope I can repair it!! oh and could you post a link of the youtube & manual you used to replace your screen?? Thanks
Oh would anyone suggest then just calling HTC and sending it to them to repair?? or does that cost to much??
Thanks everyone for the help
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
GnatGoSplat said:
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yah I was looking at the video's and they were taking off EVERYTHING... it looks really hard to do.. I don't know whether I want to do it anymore.....
oh and are you talking about the digitizer itself or the LCD+digitizer for your method?
Thanks
Heronization said:
Yah I was looking at the video's and they were taking off EVERYTHING... it looks really hard to do.. I don't know whether I want to do it anymore.....
oh and are you talking about the digitizer itself or the LCD+digitizer for your method?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, there is absolutely no reason to take off everything like some people seem to think is necessary.
The way I'm talking about requires removing LCD+digitizer. In fact, I think you'll always have to remove both because the connector for the digitizer is under the LCD. Anyway, the way I did it, I went from removing the the phone insides from the rear housing straight to separating the LCD+digitizer assembly from the frame. No removal of any boards or flex cables. The only cable to be disconnected is the LCD+digitizer assembly one. Getting it disconnected and reconnected does require unplugging the front button flex and removing the screws for the bottom logic board to loosen it, but that's all.
GnatGoSplat said:
Yep, there is absolutely no reason to take off everything like some people seem to think is necessary.
The way I'm talking about requires removing LCD+digitizer. In fact, I think you'll always have to remove both because the connector for the digitizer is under the LCD. Anyway, the way I did it, I went from removing the the phone insides from the rear housing straight to separating the LCD+digitizer assembly from the frame. No removal of any boards or flex cables. The only cable to be disconnected is the LCD+digitizer assembly one. Getting it disconnected and reconnected does require unplugging the front button flex and removing the screws for the bottom logic board to loosen it, but that's all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow that sounds pretty simple! and for you it all works perfectly now?? no calibration needed or problems?? Maybe I will try it after all..... but what screw drivers to I need to dissemble it?? the screws look different from normal..
Heronization said:
Wow that sounds pretty simple! and for you it all works perfectly now?? no calibration needed or problems?? Maybe I will try it after all..... but what screw drivers to I need to dissemble it?? the screws look different from normal..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it's not that simple because simply getting the HD2 insides out of the rear housing is difficult if you've never done it before. I believe the screwdriver you need is a Torx T-5. Once you get the screws out, you will need a plastic opening tool to go between the digitizer and rear housing frame. They look like this:
http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Plastic-Opening-Tools/IF145-000
I found it comes out much easier if I use the tool to make a gap along the top edge and then slide the entire end of a scrap credit card into that gap, then that makes the whole assembly easier to pry out along the sides with the tool. I know on one of the vids, the guy takes forever doing this part and I can understand why, but once I figured out sliding a credit card into the top gap as far as it would go, I was able to get it apart much easier.
I can't answer whether the phone will work properly, because I just ordered the new digitizer over the weekend and haven't put it back together. I did remove the LCD+digitizer assembly and then re-connected it and put it back, then powered on the phone just to make sure pulling the LCD didn't hurt it - it didn't, everything worked as well as it did before. I did manage to crack the digitizer more when I tried to get the insides out of the rear housing before I figured out the credit card trick, so fortunately I was not trying to save my digitizer as it was already cracked. If you are just wanting to try to clean or fiddle with the connection, then you're going to have to be a LOT more careful than I was because it was all too easy to crack the digitizer!
I'm guessing yours probably needs replacement though. I sent my HTC Surround in for a funny acting digitizer, and the digitizer was replaced.
Oh, and if I would have bought an LCD+digitizer pre-assembled unit, that would have been super easy to replace. However, I opted to save $50+ by buying just the digitizer. Not too sure how I'm going to prevent dust getting in it, and I've read thickness of the adhesive is critical. I may regret it later!
GnatGoSplat said:
Well, it's not that simple because simply getting the HD2 insides out of the rear housing is difficult if you've never done it before. I believe the screwdriver you need is a Torx T-5. Once you get the screws out, you will need a plastic opening tool to go between the digitizer and rear housing frame. They look like this:
http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Plastic-Opening-Tools/IF145-000
I found it comes out much easier if I use the tool to make a gap along the top edge and then slide the entire end of a scrap credit card into that gap, then that makes the whole assembly easier to pry out along the sides with the tool. I know on one of the vids, the guy takes forever doing this part and I can understand why, but once I figured out sliding a credit card into the top gap as far as it would go, I was able to get it apart much easier.
I can't answer whether the phone will work properly, because I just ordered the new digitizer over the weekend and haven't put it back together. I did remove the LCD+digitizer assembly and then re-connected it and put it back, then powered on the phone just to make sure pulling the LCD didn't hurt it - it didn't, everything worked as well as it did before. I did manage to crack the digitizer more when I tried to get the insides out of the rear housing before I figured out the credit card trick, so fortunately I was not trying to save my digitizer as it was already cracked. If you are just wanting to try to clean or fiddle with the connection, then you're going to have to be a LOT more careful than I was because it was all too easy to crack the digitizer!
I'm guessing yours probably needs replacement though. I sent my HTC Surround in for a funny acting digitizer, and the digitizer was replaced.
Oh, and if I would have bought an LCD+digitizer pre-assembled unit, that would have been super easy to replace. However, I opted to save $50+ by buying just the digitizer. Not too sure how I'm going to prevent dust getting in it, and I've read thickness of the adhesive is critical. I may regret it later!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok thanks I think thats what I am going to do, first dissemble it then try to move the cable around because, just yesterday it started to work again and then today it isn't working. I will contact you if I have a problem or get stuck, if that is ok with you
Thanks a lot
Heronization said:
Ok thanks I think thats what I am going to do, first dissemble it then try to move the cable around because, just yesterday it started to work again and then today it isn't working. I will contact you if I have a problem or get stuck, if that is ok with you
Thanks a lot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, no prob. I can post a pic of the digitizer lifted from the frame which shows where the adhesive tapes are that you have to go through, if it would help.
GnatGoSplat said:
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey lolz I need your help already, I just took off the back housing and now Im lost on what to do... It looks to me as if you do have to remove the cables from the motherboard to get to it?? and what is the double sided tape? and isn't everything connected to the lcd?? lolz this is my first time doing any phone disassemble.. Thanks
added a picture of what I was thinking of doing... or am I doing this all wrong... because you did say we don't need to remove any flex cable or wires and stuff
Thanks!!
Heronization said:
Hey lolz I need your help already, I just took off the back housing and now Im lost on what to do... It looks to me as if you do have to remove the cables from the motherboard to get to it?? and what is the double sided tape? and isn't everything connected to the lcd?? lolz this is my first time doing any phone disassemble.. Thanks
added a picture of what I was thinking of doing... or am I doing this all wrong... because you did say we don't need to remove any flex cable or wires and stuff
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, I didn't disconnect anything except the circled connector on the far right of your picture. You will need to do that to remove the LCD flex cable from the logic board.
I've attached a pic of the LCD module loosened from the frame. What you do is use something thin and flat to separate the adhesive tape holding the LCD to the frame. You will need to lift some of that black fabric tape on the edge to see where the LCD module meets the frame. Near the top, you will probably have to slide your separating tool all the way through to separate the tape (I used a scrap credit card). Avoid the area where the LCD flex cable is, because you could damage it! It's on the lower right of the LCD if you are looking from the front. When the LCD is loose, lift up from left to right (when LCD is facing you), pretending that there is a hinge on the right side. This is because you don't want to put any force on the LCD flex.
Once you've got your phone looking like my picture, you can remove the "captain" (orange tape), unlatch the LCD flex from the top, remove the button flex from its connector, then loosen the bottom logic board from the frame just enough to pull the flex out of the connector.
I hope that makes sense! It probably helps to know that a very strong double-sided sticky tape is all that holds the LCD+digitizer assembly to the frame, and there is only one flex cable connecting LCD+digitizer assembly to the rest of the phone.
GnatGoSplat said:
Nope, I didn't disconnect anything except the circled connector on the far right of your picture. You will need to do that to remove the LCD flex cable from the logic board.
I've attached a pic of the LCD module loosened from the frame. What you do is use something thin and flat to separate the adhesive tape holding the LCD to the frame. You will need to lift some of that black fabric tape on the edge to see where the LCD module meets the frame. Near the top, you will probably have to slide your separating tool all the way through to separate the tape (I used a scrap credit card). Avoid the area where the LCD flex cable is, because you could damage it! It's on the lower right of the LCD if you are looking from the front. When the LCD is loose, lift up from left to right (when LCD is facing you), pretending that there is a hinge on the right side. This is because you don't want to put any force on the LCD flex.
Once you've got your phone looking like my picture, you can remove the "captain" (orange tape), unlatch the LCD flex from the top, remove the button flex from its connector, then loosen the bottom logic board from the frame just enough to pull the flex out of the connector.
I hope that makes sense! It probably helps to know that a very strong double-sided sticky tape is all that holds the LCD+digitizer assembly to the frame, and there is only one flex cable connecting LCD+digitizer assembly to the rest of the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome I will try it now, I do need to heat the screen some for the tape to get sticky so I can pry it off right?? and I am guessing once you have removed that tape you can't "just stick it back on together and it will work right?? right??
Heronization said:
Awesome I will try it now, I do need to heat the screen some for the tape to get sticky so I can pry it off right?? and I am guessing once you have removed that tape you can't "just stick it back on together and it will work right?? right??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could try heating; I didn't, but maybe it will come apart easier if you do. In the HTC factory service video, they mentioned putting the whole phone into the oven to loosen the tape. I didn't know if it would be a good idea to do that complete with all the circuit boards or not.
No, without heat, the tape is definitely ruined and I will need to replace it. I was planning to use some leftover tape I have from fixing iPhone digitizers so I didn't even attempt to salvage the existing tape. Not sure if it's even possible to salvage that tape considering you need to stick some kind of tool in there to separate it.
GnatGoSplat said:
You could try heating; I didn't, but maybe it will come apart easier if you do. In the HTC factory service video, they mentioned putting the whole phone into the oven to loosen the tape. I didn't know if it would be a good idea to do that complete with all the circuit boards or not.
No, without heat, the tape is definitely ruined and I will need to replace it. I was planning to use some leftover tape I have from fixing iPhone digitizers so I didn't even attempt to salvage the existing tape. Not sure if it's even possible to salvage that tape considering you need to stick some kind of tool in there to separate it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright thanks I have to go and don't know when I'll be back, but I will try it tonight and hopefully I don't break anything...
Thanks for the help!
So me being the careless guy I am, accidentally spills some water on my phone while it was charging. It wasn't a lot of water and the phone seems okay so far (knocks on wood). I did spill a bit of water on the charger as well and I did dry it off before plugging it back in.
But half a hour later, I smell something burning and realized that the charger as well as the bottom of my phone (where the battery is?) were dangerously hot. I've since unplugged it but my question is, have I done significant damage to my battery?
Battery should be ok, your charging port could be damaged.
DrFredPhD said:
Battery should be ok, your charging port could be damaged.
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Click to collapse
Checked this morning and it is. Phone won't charge anymore... is there any way to fix this?
racin910 said:
Checked this morning and it is. Phone won't charge anymore... is there any way to fix this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, the part the charging port is on is fairly easy to replace. You should get a new charger too.
DrFredPhD said:
Yes, the part the charging port is on is fairly easy to replace. You should get a new charger too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK thanks! And just to make sure, this is the right part right?
http://www.repairsuniverse.com/lg-n...charging port&utm_campaign=JerryRigEverything
racin910 said:
OK thanks! And just to make sure, this is the right part right?
http://www.repairsuniverse.com/lg-n...charging port&utm_campaign=JerryRigEverything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the one. You'll need a few tools too, t5 screwdriver, small Phillips screwdriver and some plastic tool, guitar picks can work well
DrFredPhD said:
That's the one. You'll need a few tools too, t5 screwdriver, small Phillips screwdriver and some plastic tool, guitar picks can work well
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright. Thank you very much!
racin910 said:
OK thanks! And just to make sure, this is the right part right?
http://www.repairsuniverse.com/lg-n...charging port&utm_campaign=JerryRigEverything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right part, but you can get one off eBay for $12 with free shipping (USD, not sure about to Canada though).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHKRkTK2wZE
pwrdbykyank said:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No self repair on the screen this time around, it looks like a nightmare to remove...hopefully it's a way to go in from the screen side
ticklemepinks said:
No self repair on the screen this time around, it looks like a nightmare to remove...hopefully it's a way to go in from the screen side
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It wasn't too hard to take apart, only hard part was removing the back glass, took some work and heat. You don't want to rush it so you don't break the glass. Don't think it would be possible to take it apart from the screen side, the cables are all connected to the main board from the rear so you would need to take the back apart regardless to get access to the connectors.
Im impressed by how clean the device is inside, unlike previous devices (10, m8 etc) that all was a PITA to tear down with ribbons going through the mainboard etc.
jmkhenka said:
Im impressed by how clean the device is inside, unlike previous devices (10, m8 etc) that all was a PITA to tear down with ribbons going through the mainboard etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
U Ultra was pretty clean as well, HTC must have learned quite a bit about internal design from being an ODM for the Pixel )
great video as always.
Looking at the mainboard from the front of the phone, what is the little block next to the "selfie cam"? Is that another mic directly under the pinhole on the top of the phone, or is it part of the speaker/subwoofer?
I only ask because I accidentally tried to pop out my SIM tray by putting the needle tool in the wrong hole .. There was resistance, and then there wasn't. All mics seem to be working. Max volume of the phone seems low, but I could be wrong. Did I just destroy the top speaker assembly?
RandomPooka said:
Looking at the mainboard from the front of the phone, what is the little block next to the "selfie cam"? Is that another mic directly under the pinhole on the top of the phone, or is it part of the speaker/subwoofer?
I only ask because I accidentally tried to pop out my SIM tray by putting the needle tool in the wrong hole .. There was resistance, and then there wasn't. All mics seem to be working. Max volume of the phone seems low, but I could be wrong. Did I just destroy the top speaker assembly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe or maybe not. But you certainly ruined the IP67
Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk
RandomPooka said:
Looking at the mainboard from the front of the phone, what is the little block next to the "selfie cam"? Is that another mic directly under the pinhole on the top of the phone, or is it part of the speaker/subwoofer?
I only ask because I accidentally tried to pop out my SIM tray by putting the needle tool in the wrong hole .. There was resistance, and then there wasn't. All mics seem to be working. Max volume of the phone seems low, but I could be wrong. Did I just destroy the top speaker assembly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's another mic hole (for the video recording audio feature). It has a fine wire mesh going across (slightly recessed under the glass) for extra dust protection. You only just pushed through that so may not be as dust resistant as before.
richteralan said:
Maybe or maybe not. But you certainly ruined the IP67
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
spikeydoo2006 said:
It's another mic hole (for the video recording audio feature). It has a fine wire mesh going across (slightly recessed under the glass) for extra dust protection. You only just pushed through that so may not be as dust resistant as before.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you both. I'm not as concerned about the IP67 water and dust resistance, as long as I didn't just skewer the speaker or sever some important wire.
pwrdbykyank said:
It wasn't too hard to take apart, only hard part was removing the back glass, took some work and heat. You don't want to rush it so you don't break the glass. Don't think it would be possible to take it apart from the screen side, the cables are all connected to the main board from the rear so you would need to take the back apart regardless to get access to the connectors.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I need to remplace my screen, It's broken but functional, but it isn't in the video. Can you explain me a little more, how to remove it safely? Please
Yes I would love to know if the glass is replaceable from the front without disassembly....... Smaller quote I have gotten is $320aud using htc parts (they won't consider using aftermarket which I can get for $40aud)
The digitiser is fine....... Can you please pm me if this is possible? In theory it should be the same as removing the rear glass and as you are not disconnecting the digitiser from the board.
I'm inexperienced here so please correct me if I'm wrong
---------- Post added at 01:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:03 AM ----------
Or is the screen and digitiser one complete thing
Unfortunately you will have to start from the back if you want to remove the front LCD. The LCD cable is located under the battery so in order to remove the LCD you must do the following:
-remove back glass
-remove protective black panel
-remove speaker on the bottom and lower board
-remove motherboard
-remove motherboard
-remove lcd
I would go for a replacement part that comes with frame rather than the LCD only. You just transfer from old frame the motherboard and the charging port, the earpiece and the speaker and the battery.
Στάλθηκε από το HTC U11 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk
I've just got mine apart to look at doing a screen replacement. What do you need to do to put the back panel back on, glue/tape?
Unfortunately all these teardowns to be found in the net do not mention ot show where the gps receiver is. I have to replace it as it is not working anymore (after several weeks of increasing location deviation.) I would like to replace it, however, I couldn't find any hints regarding the make or any other specifications.
Any advise is very much appreciated
Cheers
Attempted to replace the battery on my 6P tonight. The "dreaded" visor came off without an issue, as did the bottom cover.
Screws out, didnt lose any. used an iSclack like tool to try and pop the frame out and ended up separating the LCD glass. OK, so thats shot....ordered a new one, easy enough.
Now I have the phone plugged into USB, but no charging light. ADB shell couldnt find the device, but I managed to boot into bootloader (fastboot ftw). I dont know the order of the options in bootloader, though....does anyone have those? I somehow managed to get the phone file system to show via USB, copying everything off right now (already had a backup, but checking to make sure USB is still working on it). Obviously there is life to the phone if I can get into fastboot, but the lack of LED charging light worries me a little.
If the digitizer is shot, would that cause the LED to not work? I didnt think so, but figured Id ask.
And if anyone can tell me the order of the options in bootloader (Recovery Mode, etc) it would be appreciated. Would like to know that I didnt completely kill the phone, or else Ill cancel the order for a new digitizer.
Thanks in advance.
-Chris
Hey, I'm kind of confused, you're not getting the LCD to turn on at all? What was it that you replaced? The top glass?
Did you maybe damage the ribbon under the battery?
LCD turns on but its like one or two lines of static across the screen. I wasn't replacing any screen part but it looks like the glass separated from the LCD and the LCD cracked. Once the glass separated it was done for anyway since it looks like a pita to replace just glass.
Ribbon cable is intact (screen was no longer working before I even attempted to remove battery), but replacement part comes with all new anyway
I did get the phone to boot up, recognized by adb eventually, and notification led, fingerprint scanner and vibration are all working. Looks like it'll be OK once screen is replaced. Not sure why adb didn't see it initially but it does now even after a couple shutdowns and reboots.
Sent from my LG-VS980 using Tapatalk
chrisexv6 said:
LCD turns on but its like one or two lines of static across the screen. I wasn't replacing any screen part but it looks like the glass separated from the LCD and the LCD cracked. Once the glass separated it was done for anyway since it looks like a pita to replace just glass.
Ribbon cable is intact (screen was no longer working before I even attempted to remove battery), but replacement part comes with all new anyway
I did get the phone to boot up, recognized by adb eventually, and notification led, fingerprint scanner and vibration are all working. Looks like it'll be OK once screen is replaced. Not sure why adb didn't see it initially but it does now even after a couple shutdowns and reboots.
Sent from my LG-VS980 using Tapatalk
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Well I'm glad it's working! Let us know how the repair goes and if you need any help. And good luck!
Phillbert! said:
Well I'm glad it's working! Let us know how the repair goes and if you need any help. And good luck!
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Will do. Im hopeful its just the LCD at this point (not sure anything else display-wise would cause this issue, maybe the GPU?) and Ill be good to go once its replaced.
New part should be here Saturday so Ill find out this weekend.
chrisexv6 said:
Will do. Im hopeful its just the LCD at this point (not sure anything else display-wise would cause this issue, maybe the GPU?) and Ill be good to go once its replaced.
New part should be here Saturday so Ill find out this weekend.
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I doubt it's the GPU, you'd have other even weider issues. It's probably just a loose or corroded connection somewhere. The screens on these are not easy to work with, when I've fixed them, I just get the LCD/frame assembly.
If you need any help when getting it back together, let us know!
Phillbert! said:
I doubt it's the GPU, you'd have other even weider issues. It's probably just a loose or corroded connection somewhere. The screens on these are not easy to work with, when I've fixed them, I just get the LCD/frame assembly.
If you need any help when getting it back together, let us know!
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Thanks!
Nice to know someone has had the experience. Ill definitely be posting questions (or even better, a success story!)
Actually I do have a quesiton before I even start!
Since everything needs to be transferred over to the new frame, should I be replacing the thermal paste/pad that is on the back of the CPU board?
chrisexv6 said:
Actually I do have a quesiton before I even start!
Since everything needs to be transferred over to the new frame, should I be replacing the thermal paste/pad that is on the back of the CPU board?
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Yes definitely! Make a note of what the thermal paste touches on the old frame and apply a generous amount to the new. I didn't put enough the first time. Too much won't hurt it (try not to clog those little holes on the board above the CPU area though.) Too much won't really hurt anything, but it won't help.
Phillbert! said:
Yes definitely! Make a note of what the thermal paste touches on the old frame and apply a generous amount to the new. I didn't put enough the first time. Too much won't hurt it (try not to clog those little holes on the board above the CPU area though.) Too much won't really hurt anything, but it won't help.
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Darn, I dont have any thermal paste. Will have to order some up I guess.
Best Buy sells it..I think. It keeps the processor from overheating. So it's necessary, unfortunately.
Phillbert! said:
Best Buy sells it..I think. It keeps the processor from overheating. So it's necessary, unfortunately.
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Yeah I was able to order up some Noctua NH-T1 from Amazon. Expected delivery is Sunday...gotta love Prime!
So I got thermal PASTE, is that good enough for both outside AND inside the CPU cover? Looking at this mod since I have to have everything apart anyway: https://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-6p/general/guide-improve-cooling-greatly-reduce-t3323898 and they used thermal PAD for inside the CPU cover.
EDIT: I might not pull the CPU cover off....even in that thread the OPs cover looked pretty well connected to the CPU with the thermal whatever Huwai used. I think Ill stick to adding my thermal paste on top of the frame before putting the CPU board back in.
Thanks.
-Chris
You mean the metal cover over the CPU itself? That thermal paste should be fine. It's sealed away from dust, and the phone isn't super old, so it's very unlikely to have hardened. You should be fine with just putting it on the outside.
I attached a picture I just took of a 6P I'm working on. Just because it's my way doesn't mean it's the best. But I've had no issues with overheating. And it's very similar to how it came from Huawei (though they made a big mess with it.)
Thanks. Thats about what I planned on doing....Ive done computer CPUs before, the classic "grain of rice", I figure Ill tone it down a bit since this is smaller but since I have a brand new tube Ill put a grain of rice on, put the cover on then pull it off to see what kind of coverage I get.
Hopefully this all goes well and Ill get a working N6P today or tomorrow.
I needed more than I thought I would. There's a surprising amount of space between the two parts.
I figured as much. The hard mod thread has a lot of people up in arms about how much the OP used but it makes sense if there is that much gap between parts. I will just apply it then put the cover on and remove the cover to check the coverage pattern. Wipe it off and apply same amount if it works or a bit more if it didnt.
Chances are anything I do will be better than what Huwei did.
OK, I have begun.
I did NOT realize how much stuff needs to be transferred over! I got the mobo, front camera and headphone jack out. USB board and black piece over it are also both out, but I cant get out the following:
battery (?) that connects under the USB daughterboard. The battery is out of the holder, but I cant get the ribbon cable off...any tips?
volume/power button ribbon - I have no idea where to even start with this one....its covered in black plastic where it is exposed to the phone case, and a ribbon cable adhered to the plate. Again, any tips?
Thanks in advance.
-Chris
chrisexv6 said:
OK, I have begun.
I did NOT realize how much stuff needs to be transferred over! I got the mobo, front camera and headphone jack out. USB board and black piece over it are also both out, but I cant get out the following:
battery (?) that connects under the USB daughterboard. The battery is out of the holder, but I cant get the ribbon cable off...any tips?
volume/power button ribbon - I have no idea where to even start with this one....its covered in black plastic where it is exposed to the phone case, and a ribbon cable adhered to the plate. Again, any tips?
Thanks in advance.
-Chris
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Under the battery you must be referring to the display cable. I have always replaced the display with mid-frame so not sure how you get that out. I think the cable is glued to the mid-frame, some light heat might help and then work it loose with a playing card. It's looks quite hefty for a ribbon cable.
I have replaced the volume buttons. Start by lifting the connection off the mid-frame with a small flat tool. From there it's glued to the side of the sub-frame and there is two small parts of the volume assembly that fold over onto the frame. Have a look at the blown up image of a replacement so you know what you're up against.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Camera-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649