Database Users

main board

Whilst replacing the screen on my m700 i managed to utterly nadge the main board by breaking off the clip that holds the screen ribbon in place. To make matters worse I completely fubarred the socket by pushing the ribbon in and bending all the pins over. Not only that I then managed to get the battery in backwards and fried a power component. So in short totally assed the main board up. Does anyone knoe how I can get hold of a replacement main board or the longest shot on the planet a place that could repair the stupid damage I have done?

Bumpy bumpy

dangerous_brain said:
Whilst replacing the screen on my m700 i managed to utterly nadge the main board by breaking off the clip that holds the screen ribbon in place. To make matters worse I completely fubarred the socket by pushing the ribbon in and bending all the pins over. Not only that I then managed to get the battery in backwards and fried a power component. So in short totally assed the main board up. Does anyone knoe how I can get hold of a replacement main board or the longest shot on the planet a place that could repair the stupid damage I have done?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've seen a lot of parts for the Trinity online, but never a motherboard. I think you may have to send it in for service.

Matterhorn said:
I've seen a lot of parts for the Trinity online, but never a motherboard. I think you may have to send it in for service.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where would I send it though?

Bump
Anyone know where I can send this phone in either the UK or the Netherlands to be repaired?

Try to find ot from HTC's European web site....they must have a number or a telephone somwhere....now If you have messed around with the mainboard, to replace it, outside the guarantee it might be a costly process...maybe you will be better off with buying a second hand one and use yours for spare parts, when and if needed....better ask them for the cost before you send it

Replacing Touch Digitizer fix NonResponsive Screen?

Hey everyone my HTC HD2 got the Non-Responsive screen problem a week ago, & did a lot of research and found out that it was most likely a hardware problem with a cable..... So a lot of people would tell the people with the problem that the "Touch Screen Digitizer" is dead (like the cable), or it needs to be cleaned... pretty well go out and buy a new one... BUT I have never found evidence that someone has done this and it has successfully "cured" their HTC HD2 Non-Responsive touch screen problem...
So I was looking for anyone on the forums that could confirm this is a solution or give me any tips on what I should do.... AND no I don't have enough money to get a new phone, nor do I live in the USA so I can't send it in to fix it...
This is what I was going to buy for it:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-OEM-HTC-...781?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519a3d2e45
Thanks for taking the time to read my Thread, its much appreciated!! I hope I can find a fix!!
PS: If anyone wanted to know what it looks like out of curiosity I posted 3 pictures with RED circle HIGHLIGHTING the problem when I try to touch something....

My digitizer has been a bit dodgy for the past few months. It's ironic that when I finally found out what the issue was and called HTC, my factory warranty had ended exactly 4 days prior to the call.
Fast forward 3 months and my phone has now been unresponsive for 3 hours despite my prying and tweaking various hard parts.
I disassembled the phone down to the main board just to see how hard the install is, but it's a bit intimidating once it's time to start pulling all the film and ribbons. A bit too tight and small parts for my liking.
Time to hit CL to see if I can find a cheap replacement.
Good luck with your repairs. I may be following in your footsteps if I can not find a good deal.

Yeah I will see how well it goes... if anyone has useful info, i will be more than grad to hear it
Thanks

Many people attempt to replace a digitizer, but I simply don't recommend it, we see enough of do-it-yourselvers who created problems in addition to the original ones.
What I do recommend, however, and I stated it on many threads already, is to get an LCD+DIGITIZER assembly. Simply because it is easier to fit. Not saying the overall fitting is easy, always depends on your overall skill, so ensure that you are familiar with the procedure BEFORE you begin. But you will save yourself a lot of trouble by getting the whole thing, as opposed to the digitizer only for the sake of a few bucks.
However, if anyone still feels intimidated by the whole thing, I am on the lookout for working main board. Advertised a few times in the marketplace with limited success. So if anyone smashed their baby and will be looking to replace, rather than repair - drop me a PM. I am in NZ. Will pay by Paypal.

Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!

cheeselump said:
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How much did the set cost?

cheeselump said:
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks I will check it out, hopefully it won't be to hard and I hope I can repair it!! oh and could you post a link of the youtube & manual you used to replace your screen?? Thanks
Oh would anyone suggest then just calling HTC and sending it to them to repair?? or does that cost to much??
Thanks everyone for the help

One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.

GnatGoSplat said:
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yah I was looking at the video's and they were taking off EVERYTHING... it looks really hard to do.. I don't know whether I want to do it anymore.....
oh and are you talking about the digitizer itself or the LCD+digitizer for your method?
Thanks

Heronization said:
Yah I was looking at the video's and they were taking off EVERYTHING... it looks really hard to do.. I don't know whether I want to do it anymore.....
oh and are you talking about the digitizer itself or the LCD+digitizer for your method?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, there is absolutely no reason to take off everything like some people seem to think is necessary.
The way I'm talking about requires removing LCD+digitizer. In fact, I think you'll always have to remove both because the connector for the digitizer is under the LCD. Anyway, the way I did it, I went from removing the the phone insides from the rear housing straight to separating the LCD+digitizer assembly from the frame. No removal of any boards or flex cables. The only cable to be disconnected is the LCD+digitizer assembly one. Getting it disconnected and reconnected does require unplugging the front button flex and removing the screws for the bottom logic board to loosen it, but that's all.

GnatGoSplat said:
Yep, there is absolutely no reason to take off everything like some people seem to think is necessary.
The way I'm talking about requires removing LCD+digitizer. In fact, I think you'll always have to remove both because the connector for the digitizer is under the LCD. Anyway, the way I did it, I went from removing the the phone insides from the rear housing straight to separating the LCD+digitizer assembly from the frame. No removal of any boards or flex cables. The only cable to be disconnected is the LCD+digitizer assembly one. Getting it disconnected and reconnected does require unplugging the front button flex and removing the screws for the bottom logic board to loosen it, but that's all.
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Click to collapse
Wow that sounds pretty simple! and for you it all works perfectly now?? no calibration needed or problems?? Maybe I will try it after all..... but what screw drivers to I need to dissemble it?? the screws look different from normal..

Heronization said:
Wow that sounds pretty simple! and for you it all works perfectly now?? no calibration needed or problems?? Maybe I will try it after all..... but what screw drivers to I need to dissemble it?? the screws look different from normal..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it's not that simple because simply getting the HD2 insides out of the rear housing is difficult if you've never done it before. I believe the screwdriver you need is a Torx T-5. Once you get the screws out, you will need a plastic opening tool to go between the digitizer and rear housing frame. They look like this:
http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Plastic-Opening-Tools/IF145-000
I found it comes out much easier if I use the tool to make a gap along the top edge and then slide the entire end of a scrap credit card into that gap, then that makes the whole assembly easier to pry out along the sides with the tool. I know on one of the vids, the guy takes forever doing this part and I can understand why, but once I figured out sliding a credit card into the top gap as far as it would go, I was able to get it apart much easier.
I can't answer whether the phone will work properly, because I just ordered the new digitizer over the weekend and haven't put it back together. I did remove the LCD+digitizer assembly and then re-connected it and put it back, then powered on the phone just to make sure pulling the LCD didn't hurt it - it didn't, everything worked as well as it did before. I did manage to crack the digitizer more when I tried to get the insides out of the rear housing before I figured out the credit card trick, so fortunately I was not trying to save my digitizer as it was already cracked. If you are just wanting to try to clean or fiddle with the connection, then you're going to have to be a LOT more careful than I was because it was all too easy to crack the digitizer!
I'm guessing yours probably needs replacement though. I sent my HTC Surround in for a funny acting digitizer, and the digitizer was replaced.
Oh, and if I would have bought an LCD+digitizer pre-assembled unit, that would have been super easy to replace. However, I opted to save $50+ by buying just the digitizer. Not too sure how I'm going to prevent dust getting in it, and I've read thickness of the adhesive is critical. I may regret it later!

GnatGoSplat said:
Well, it's not that simple because simply getting the HD2 insides out of the rear housing is difficult if you've never done it before. I believe the screwdriver you need is a Torx T-5. Once you get the screws out, you will need a plastic opening tool to go between the digitizer and rear housing frame. They look like this:
http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Plastic-Opening-Tools/IF145-000
I found it comes out much easier if I use the tool to make a gap along the top edge and then slide the entire end of a scrap credit card into that gap, then that makes the whole assembly easier to pry out along the sides with the tool. I know on one of the vids, the guy takes forever doing this part and I can understand why, but once I figured out sliding a credit card into the top gap as far as it would go, I was able to get it apart much easier.
I can't answer whether the phone will work properly, because I just ordered the new digitizer over the weekend and haven't put it back together. I did remove the LCD+digitizer assembly and then re-connected it and put it back, then powered on the phone just to make sure pulling the LCD didn't hurt it - it didn't, everything worked as well as it did before. I did manage to crack the digitizer more when I tried to get the insides out of the rear housing before I figured out the credit card trick, so fortunately I was not trying to save my digitizer as it was already cracked. If you are just wanting to try to clean or fiddle with the connection, then you're going to have to be a LOT more careful than I was because it was all too easy to crack the digitizer!
I'm guessing yours probably needs replacement though. I sent my HTC Surround in for a funny acting digitizer, and the digitizer was replaced.
Oh, and if I would have bought an LCD+digitizer pre-assembled unit, that would have been super easy to replace. However, I opted to save $50+ by buying just the digitizer. Not too sure how I'm going to prevent dust getting in it, and I've read thickness of the adhesive is critical. I may regret it later!
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Click to collapse
Ok thanks I think thats what I am going to do, first dissemble it then try to move the cable around because, just yesterday it started to work again and then today it isn't working. I will contact you if I have a problem or get stuck, if that is ok with you
Thanks a lot

Heronization said:
Ok thanks I think thats what I am going to do, first dissemble it then try to move the cable around because, just yesterday it started to work again and then today it isn't working. I will contact you if I have a problem or get stuck, if that is ok with you
Thanks a lot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, no prob. I can post a pic of the digitizer lifted from the frame which shows where the adhesive tapes are that you have to go through, if it would help.

GnatGoSplat said:
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey lolz I need your help already, I just took off the back housing and now Im lost on what to do... It looks to me as if you do have to remove the cables from the motherboard to get to it?? and what is the double sided tape? and isn't everything connected to the lcd?? lolz this is my first time doing any phone disassemble.. Thanks
added a picture of what I was thinking of doing... or am I doing this all wrong... because you did say we don't need to remove any flex cable or wires and stuff
Thanks!!

Heronization said:
Hey lolz I need your help already, I just took off the back housing and now Im lost on what to do... It looks to me as if you do have to remove the cables from the motherboard to get to it?? and what is the double sided tape? and isn't everything connected to the lcd?? lolz this is my first time doing any phone disassemble.. Thanks
added a picture of what I was thinking of doing... or am I doing this all wrong... because you did say we don't need to remove any flex cable or wires and stuff
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, I didn't disconnect anything except the circled connector on the far right of your picture. You will need to do that to remove the LCD flex cable from the logic board.
I've attached a pic of the LCD module loosened from the frame. What you do is use something thin and flat to separate the adhesive tape holding the LCD to the frame. You will need to lift some of that black fabric tape on the edge to see where the LCD module meets the frame. Near the top, you will probably have to slide your separating tool all the way through to separate the tape (I used a scrap credit card). Avoid the area where the LCD flex cable is, because you could damage it! It's on the lower right of the LCD if you are looking from the front. When the LCD is loose, lift up from left to right (when LCD is facing you), pretending that there is a hinge on the right side. This is because you don't want to put any force on the LCD flex.
Once you've got your phone looking like my picture, you can remove the "captain" (orange tape), unlatch the LCD flex from the top, remove the button flex from its connector, then loosen the bottom logic board from the frame just enough to pull the flex out of the connector.
I hope that makes sense! It probably helps to know that a very strong double-sided sticky tape is all that holds the LCD+digitizer assembly to the frame, and there is only one flex cable connecting LCD+digitizer assembly to the rest of the phone.

GnatGoSplat said:
Nope, I didn't disconnect anything except the circled connector on the far right of your picture. You will need to do that to remove the LCD flex cable from the logic board.
I've attached a pic of the LCD module loosened from the frame. What you do is use something thin and flat to separate the adhesive tape holding the LCD to the frame. You will need to lift some of that black fabric tape on the edge to see where the LCD module meets the frame. Near the top, you will probably have to slide your separating tool all the way through to separate the tape (I used a scrap credit card). Avoid the area where the LCD flex cable is, because you could damage it! It's on the lower right of the LCD if you are looking from the front. When the LCD is loose, lift up from left to right (when LCD is facing you), pretending that there is a hinge on the right side. This is because you don't want to put any force on the LCD flex.
Once you've got your phone looking like my picture, you can remove the "captain" (orange tape), unlatch the LCD flex from the top, remove the button flex from its connector, then loosen the bottom logic board from the frame just enough to pull the flex out of the connector.
I hope that makes sense! It probably helps to know that a very strong double-sided sticky tape is all that holds the LCD+digitizer assembly to the frame, and there is only one flex cable connecting LCD+digitizer assembly to the rest of the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome I will try it now, I do need to heat the screen some for the tape to get sticky so I can pry it off right?? and I am guessing once you have removed that tape you can't "just stick it back on together and it will work right?? right??

Heronization said:
Awesome I will try it now, I do need to heat the screen some for the tape to get sticky so I can pry it off right?? and I am guessing once you have removed that tape you can't "just stick it back on together and it will work right?? right??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could try heating; I didn't, but maybe it will come apart easier if you do. In the HTC factory service video, they mentioned putting the whole phone into the oven to loosen the tape. I didn't know if it would be a good idea to do that complete with all the circuit boards or not.
No, without heat, the tape is definitely ruined and I will need to replace it. I was planning to use some leftover tape I have from fixing iPhone digitizers so I didn't even attempt to salvage the existing tape. Not sure if it's even possible to salvage that tape considering you need to stick some kind of tool in there to separate it.

GnatGoSplat said:
You could try heating; I didn't, but maybe it will come apart easier if you do. In the HTC factory service video, they mentioned putting the whole phone into the oven to loosen the tape. I didn't know if it would be a good idea to do that complete with all the circuit boards or not.
No, without heat, the tape is definitely ruined and I will need to replace it. I was planning to use some leftover tape I have from fixing iPhone digitizers so I didn't even attempt to salvage the existing tape. Not sure if it's even possible to salvage that tape considering you need to stick some kind of tool in there to separate it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright thanks I have to go and don't know when I'll be back, but I will try it tonight and hopefully I don't break anything...
Thanks for the help!

Any hope in repairing pin on battery clip?

I'm not sure if my title makes any sense, so I will further explain here. I had to repair my charging port, while doing so I must have damaged the clip that the battery plugs into. It looks like a pin or two (that is soldered to the mobo) is a bit loose. My phone does not charge but will function when plugged in. I bought a replacement battery thinking I damaged that, when going to install I noticed the loose pins. Went through with the install anyway, and phone acts the same.
Is there any hope for my to resolder the pins back to the mobo? I want to get some input before I buy a soldering gun etc.

A1will said:
I'm not sure if my title makes any sense, so I will further explain here. I had to repair my charging port, while doing so I must have damaged the clip that the battery plugs into. It looks like a pin or two (that is soldered to the mobo) is a bit loose. My phone does not charge but will function when plugged in. I bought a replacement battery thinking I damaged that, when going to install I noticed the loose pins. Went through with the install anyway, and phone acts the same.
Is there any hope for my to resolder the pins back to the mobo? I want to get some input before I buy a soldering gun etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Resoldering battery connectors is normally a very difficult job, best to take it to someone experienced. If the solder pad is gone too you'll definitely need a professional.

DrFredPhD said:
Resoldering battery connectors is normally a very difficult job, best to take it to someone experienced. If the solder pad is gone too you'll definitely need a professional.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What makes it so difficult?
Or by me asking do I show that I'm in over my head? lol

Galaxy Note 2 NFC pins damaged. advice, please!

Dropped my phone on concrete. It BOUNCED - thank god for cases. It seems fine, except for this... (see attached image)
Yeah.... One of the NFC pins snapped off. As you can imagine, my NFC no longer works. At all. As I use NFC on a very regular basis, this is not OK.
Anyone have something like this happen to them? Any ideas on how to fix it? I was considering a drop of solder, but I really am not sure about what to do.
Thanks in advance.

mtmerrick said:
Dropped my phone on concrete. It BOUNCED - thank god for cases. It seems fine, except for this... (see attached image)
Yeah.... One of the NFC pins snapped off. As you can imagine, my NFC no longer works. At all. As I use NFC on a very regular basis, this is not OK.
Anyone have something like this happen to them? Any ideas on how to fix it? I was considering a drop of solder, but I really am not sure about what to do.
Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
these NFC pins contains some internal circuits if you apply solder on it , then you will going to short circuit the hole circuit which may damage your NFC coil . you may damage your coil due to extensive heat due to solder . so please go to service center.

yep, that's right, try not to diy this one. the circuit may tolerate a bit of heat but my main concern would be EM parasite charges from your solder iron. These can screw the gain for the amplifying circuitry linked to the nfc coils. This is also true for the GSM/GPS antenna and in some measure for the WLAN.
however it should be an easy fix for a service center since they have ESD safe equipments.

This is a heavily rooted/ROMed/otherwise modified device. Would Samsung even take it back? I thought my warranty was long gone?

since your warranty is expired so stop bothering about root . as far as NFC pins are concerned replacement will not cost to much (NFC parts costs few dollars ) ..service charge is what you have to pay. so go to service center and stop bothering about root and rom.

Alright, I'm not sure what I need to do to here, I've never gone to a service center before.
Does this (image attached) work as a place to go?

yes , that's the place you have to go . i think they are going to take your phone for 1 to 2 days so keep an backup phone with you.

rishav754 said:
yes , that's the place you have to go . i think they are going to take your phone for 1 to 2 days so keep an backup phone with you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well ****. I don't have a backup phone. This is gonna be REALLY annoying.

I am predicting not sure.......
Sent from my C2305 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

or i could just replace the module itself....
look at this: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Galax...8&qid=1400003697&sr=8-1&keywords=N7100+SD+sim
i guess i'll just be replacing it by hand.

looks good ... its the cheapest way to fix your phone ...:victory:
please ensure that i case of manufacturing defects they will going to replace it ( there may be chance manufacturing defects so be cautious )
go on replace the circuit board ...

Easy workaround
mtmerrick said:
Dropped my phone on concrete. It BOUNCED - thank god for cases. It seems fine, except for this... (see attached image)
Yeah.... One of the NFC pins snapped off. As you can imagine, my NFC no longer works. At all. As I use NFC on a very regular basis, this is not OK.
Anyone have something like this happen to them? Any ideas on how to fix it? I was considering a drop of solder, but I really am not sure about what to do.
Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know it's been a while but thought somebody else looking up might benefit at least.
I had the same problem and I wish I knew how the contact broke off. I am a heavy NFC user and so all I did is simply take the inside of a bubblegum wrapper (the aluminium foil) and folded small enough to fit in the pit, yet big enough to make contact with the back cover. Cigarette packs also have such lining wrappers inside BTW. Then I simply have an extra full bubblegum wrapper (folded non conductive side up) and keep it behind the battery JIC I need to replace the hack when I open the back cover and loose the small piece from the contact point or may be miraculously when the other NFC contact also breaks off.
Also, conductive glue could be used to stick it if at all you want to go that far.
HTH!

Tried to replace battery, busted LCD...help!

Attempted to replace the battery on my 6P tonight. The "dreaded" visor came off without an issue, as did the bottom cover.
Screws out, didnt lose any. used an iSclack like tool to try and pop the frame out and ended up separating the LCD glass. OK, so thats shot....ordered a new one, easy enough.
Now I have the phone plugged into USB, but no charging light. ADB shell couldnt find the device, but I managed to boot into bootloader (fastboot ftw). I dont know the order of the options in bootloader, though....does anyone have those? I somehow managed to get the phone file system to show via USB, copying everything off right now (already had a backup, but checking to make sure USB is still working on it). Obviously there is life to the phone if I can get into fastboot, but the lack of LED charging light worries me a little.
If the digitizer is shot, would that cause the LED to not work? I didnt think so, but figured Id ask.
And if anyone can tell me the order of the options in bootloader (Recovery Mode, etc) it would be appreciated. Would like to know that I didnt completely kill the phone, or else Ill cancel the order for a new digitizer.
Thanks in advance.
-Chris

Hey, I'm kind of confused, you're not getting the LCD to turn on at all? What was it that you replaced? The top glass?

Did you maybe damage the ribbon under the battery?

LCD turns on but its like one or two lines of static across the screen. I wasn't replacing any screen part but it looks like the glass separated from the LCD and the LCD cracked. Once the glass separated it was done for anyway since it looks like a pita to replace just glass.
Ribbon cable is intact (screen was no longer working before I even attempted to remove battery), but replacement part comes with all new anyway
I did get the phone to boot up, recognized by adb eventually, and notification led, fingerprint scanner and vibration are all working. Looks like it'll be OK once screen is replaced. Not sure why adb didn't see it initially but it does now even after a couple shutdowns and reboots.
Sent from my LG-VS980 using Tapatalk

chrisexv6 said:
LCD turns on but its like one or two lines of static across the screen. I wasn't replacing any screen part but it looks like the glass separated from the LCD and the LCD cracked. Once the glass separated it was done for anyway since it looks like a pita to replace just glass.
Ribbon cable is intact (screen was no longer working before I even attempted to remove battery), but replacement part comes with all new anyway
I did get the phone to boot up, recognized by adb eventually, and notification led, fingerprint scanner and vibration are all working. Looks like it'll be OK once screen is replaced. Not sure why adb didn't see it initially but it does now even after a couple shutdowns and reboots.
Sent from my LG-VS980 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I'm glad it's working! Let us know how the repair goes and if you need any help. And good luck!

Phillbert! said:
Well I'm glad it's working! Let us know how the repair goes and if you need any help. And good luck!
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Will do. Im hopeful its just the LCD at this point (not sure anything else display-wise would cause this issue, maybe the GPU?) and Ill be good to go once its replaced.
New part should be here Saturday so Ill find out this weekend.

chrisexv6 said:
Will do. Im hopeful its just the LCD at this point (not sure anything else display-wise would cause this issue, maybe the GPU?) and Ill be good to go once its replaced.
New part should be here Saturday so Ill find out this weekend.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt it's the GPU, you'd have other even weider issues. It's probably just a loose or corroded connection somewhere. The screens on these are not easy to work with, when I've fixed them, I just get the LCD/frame assembly.
If you need any help when getting it back together, let us know!

Phillbert! said:
I doubt it's the GPU, you'd have other even weider issues. It's probably just a loose or corroded connection somewhere. The screens on these are not easy to work with, when I've fixed them, I just get the LCD/frame assembly.
If you need any help when getting it back together, let us know!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks!
Nice to know someone has had the experience. Ill definitely be posting questions (or even better, a success story!)

Actually I do have a quesiton before I even start!
Since everything needs to be transferred over to the new frame, should I be replacing the thermal paste/pad that is on the back of the CPU board?

chrisexv6 said:
Actually I do have a quesiton before I even start!
Since everything needs to be transferred over to the new frame, should I be replacing the thermal paste/pad that is on the back of the CPU board?
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Yes definitely! Make a note of what the thermal paste touches on the old frame and apply a generous amount to the new. I didn't put enough the first time. Too much won't hurt it (try not to clog those little holes on the board above the CPU area though.) Too much won't really hurt anything, but it won't help.

Phillbert! said:
Yes definitely! Make a note of what the thermal paste touches on the old frame and apply a generous amount to the new. I didn't put enough the first time. Too much won't hurt it (try not to clog those little holes on the board above the CPU area though.) Too much won't really hurt anything, but it won't help.
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Darn, I dont have any thermal paste. Will have to order some up I guess.

Best Buy sells it..I think. It keeps the processor from overheating. So it's necessary, unfortunately.

Phillbert! said:
Best Buy sells it..I think. It keeps the processor from overheating. So it's necessary, unfortunately.
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Yeah I was able to order up some Noctua NH-T1 from Amazon. Expected delivery is Sunday...gotta love Prime!

So I got thermal PASTE, is that good enough for both outside AND inside the CPU cover? Looking at this mod since I have to have everything apart anyway: https://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-6p/general/guide-improve-cooling-greatly-reduce-t3323898 and they used thermal PAD for inside the CPU cover.
EDIT: I might not pull the CPU cover off....even in that thread the OPs cover looked pretty well connected to the CPU with the thermal whatever Huwai used. I think Ill stick to adding my thermal paste on top of the frame before putting the CPU board back in.
Thanks.
-Chris

You mean the metal cover over the CPU itself? That thermal paste should be fine. It's sealed away from dust, and the phone isn't super old, so it's very unlikely to have hardened. You should be fine with just putting it on the outside.
I attached a picture I just took of a 6P I'm working on. Just because it's my way doesn't mean it's the best. But I've had no issues with overheating. And it's very similar to how it came from Huawei (though they made a big mess with it.)

Thanks. Thats about what I planned on doing....Ive done computer CPUs before, the classic "grain of rice", I figure Ill tone it down a bit since this is smaller but since I have a brand new tube Ill put a grain of rice on, put the cover on then pull it off to see what kind of coverage I get.
Hopefully this all goes well and Ill get a working N6P today or tomorrow.

I needed more than I thought I would. There's a surprising amount of space between the two parts.

I figured as much. The hard mod thread has a lot of people up in arms about how much the OP used but it makes sense if there is that much gap between parts. I will just apply it then put the cover on and remove the cover to check the coverage pattern. Wipe it off and apply same amount if it works or a bit more if it didnt.
Chances are anything I do will be better than what Huwei did.

OK, I have begun.
I did NOT realize how much stuff needs to be transferred over! I got the mobo, front camera and headphone jack out. USB board and black piece over it are also both out, but I cant get out the following:
battery (?) that connects under the USB daughterboard. The battery is out of the holder, but I cant get the ribbon cable off...any tips?
volume/power button ribbon - I have no idea where to even start with this one....its covered in black plastic where it is exposed to the phone case, and a ribbon cable adhered to the plate. Again, any tips?
Thanks in advance.
-Chris

chrisexv6 said:
OK, I have begun.
I did NOT realize how much stuff needs to be transferred over! I got the mobo, front camera and headphone jack out. USB board and black piece over it are also both out, but I cant get out the following:
battery (?) that connects under the USB daughterboard. The battery is out of the holder, but I cant get the ribbon cable off...any tips?
volume/power button ribbon - I have no idea where to even start with this one....its covered in black plastic where it is exposed to the phone case, and a ribbon cable adhered to the plate. Again, any tips?
Thanks in advance.
-Chris
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Under the battery you must be referring to the display cable. I have always replaced the display with mid-frame so not sure how you get that out. I think the cable is glued to the mid-frame, some light heat might help and then work it loose with a playing card. It's looks quite hefty for a ribbon cable.
I have replaced the volume buttons. Start by lifting the connection off the mid-frame with a small flat tool. From there it's glued to the side of the sub-frame and there is two small parts of the volume assembly that fold over onto the frame. Have a look at the blown up image of a replacement so you know what you're up against.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Camera-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649