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Hi Guys,
I've been searching but couldn't find info on this head unit. It looks like they upgraded the screen to 7" 1024x600 on an older dual core 1.6Ghz RK3066 to make a universal 2DIN unit. It seems to be a recently released model, looks like a nice unit for a good value.
Does anyone have this HU or know about it? Hotaudio seems to be the original manufacturer, is there a better known clone of this unit?
All I can find searching for "Hotaudio 2100" are some posts on a Russian forum:
https://www.drive2.ru/l/7069581/
https://www.drive2.ru/l/7031068/
They're on Aliexpress and Ebay:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Dual...ole-size-176mm-101mm-No-disc/32342857044.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1024-600-An...mm-176mm-7-inch-navi-radio-wifi-/251948090321
Any info or ideas?
Hi. This Hotaudio RK3066 - 1024X600 HU is considered a HuiFei type, so check out the thread below for more info:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2660662
Here's another thread on this specific HA HU that could help too:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/and...in-s07-android-4-4-using-rk3066-root-t3155372
Also, below's a link to Malaysk's Custom Rk3066 - 1024X600 ROM Images that have worked well for me with this HU:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=58249825&postcount=7614
And here's a link the MCU images for BN-HA RK3066 / RK3188 specific models:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=61291848&postcount=14139
My opinion of this HA HU is that it's inexpensively made and not perfect. For example, I had to relocate the WiFi antenna out the back, as the factory location inside of the unit created a very weak signal. To clarify, moving the antenna lead out the back of the unit increased throughput up and down by at least 10x + on my unit. Moreover, my HA HU also has an input switching issue with my vehicle's factory amp that creates a single loud popping sound through the speakers when switching from music to radio inputs or when turning the vehicle off. That said, this issue was not present at all with a prior Winmark Android HU in the same vehicle. I even installed a RCA ground loop isolator - noise filter and made sure the ground was to chassis, but the input switching loud single popping sound is still a problem with this HU. I'm guessing it's an issue with how crudely this HU the switches power, which is unlike the soft power switch and volume ramp up of my last Android HU.
Another issue with many of these Android type head units including this one is the boot up time. It's at least 20-30 seconds, but you can set the HU shut down time delay up to two hours. Still, it's not equal to having an any time almost instant on HU like my last one.
All the above said, this HU is decent if you can find it for around $200 US, but I'd recommend going with something of higher quality if cost is not a big concern, or at the least look for one of these units or similar ones with the quad core RK3188 processor and good support.
Bottom line is that these units are inexpensively made IMHO, but they can be fun to work with; thanks to Malaysk and all the excellent XDA developers and contributors. Plus, I still have not found any higher quality brand names to date that run pure android, OBD2, and have as many other app options available.
Best to all,
R
Thanks a lot for your informative post rhacy.
My unit just came in and I was wondering if this was the WiFi antenna you relocated out the back?
There seems to be an adhesive copper antenna tab taped to the inside of the chassis near the screen at the front of the unit. If you route it out the back wouldn't it put the antenna further away from the seats where you'd want the stronger WiFi signal? Was the stock placement of your antenna the same way?
Your previous Winmark HU with the instant boot up time was a Windows CE unit with Android running in a VM, or was it pure Android? I've seen the option in xdAuto firmware for the Carpad HUs to set sleep delay for 1day, 2days so it will instantly boot as long you drive every few days. I wonder if we can do that on these HuiFei units somehow?
I've seen mention in the changelog of an adapter that addresses factory amp pop by introducing a delay before switching the input, at least during turn-on. Maybe using an adapter like this might address the issue?
http://www.pac-audio.com/firmware/RP/RP4-CH11.html
Release Notes for RP firmware
2/13/2015 Rev 1.5.4.4:
Adds Fusion
Separates Sony & Pioneer
Adds Alpine VR command
Factory amp turn-on delay slightly longer to avoid turn-on pop
Fixes LED problem without proper radio selection
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have Steering Wheel Controls working with your unit? Does your vehicle have resistive controls or canbus?
I'm going to hook mine up to power and test it out, will report any issues to this thread. Anyone who has one of these Hotaudio model 2100 please post your experience.
Hi rcll,
Your more than welcome and thank you for the heads up and link for an adapter that addresses factory amp pop by introducing a delay before switching the inputs, at least at amp turn on. Cheers!
Here's a link to one I found on ebay that looks like it may work in some instances:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAC-TR-4-Ca...gger-Module-/191226517960?hash=item2c85fd19c8
Moreover, I'll do some more research and try to find an adapter that can sense any input switch and soft switch the amp. Well... I will if the new Android HU I just purchased has the same single loud popping sound when switching inputs or turning off. The new HU is a Joying JY-UQ124 Quad Core RK3188 1024*600 16GB 2 DIN system. It was purchased because I missed having an actual volume knob and wanted to upgrade to a quad core as well as see if it would fix the loud single pop sound issue.
Please note that I have emailed Hotaudio multiple times over the last month or so about the loud single pop sound issue when switching audio inputs etc., and Summer has stated that they are working on the problem and will send me a fix if and when they figure it out.
Also, if it helps at all, the Hotaudio HU is installed currently in a 2003 Mitsubishi Montero Limited with the factory infinity amp, 6 speakers, and a Polk sub-woofer. It's a non CANbus and non SWC SUV. As I mentioned in my previous post, there were zero single loud popping noise issues with the Winmark Android HU that I installed in the Montero prior this HA HU. The Winmark has a gentle audio input switching and a nice soft volume ramp up on any input including the radio. It was listed as a Pure Android Single DIN HU with the pop out 7" 1024x600 display and it has worked well. I only replaced it because I did not like how far it stuck out of the dash even with the display in. Plus, the display had to pop out in order for me to see my reverse camera or access my nav apps and that got old real fast. Also, I was concerned that the display motor or its ribbon cable would fail eventually.
Here's a link to Winmark Pure Android 4.1 Single DIN HU:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Pure-Android-4-1-universal-1_60150935774.html
To clarify further, the Winmark Pure Android HU is instant on when using the android music player or radio, but it does take 10 seconds for the display to pop out and up. That said, I'm guessing that there must be a sleep or standby mode for the Mstar system that Rockchip does not deploy. Plus, I know for sure that the Mstar system does not need to boot up even when the Montero has sat for days or weeks without use.
In regard to the Hotaudio WiFi Antenna, yes, mine was in the exact same spot originally. However, mine did not come with an adhesive copper antenna tab at the end of the antenna lead on the side of the case. It was just soldered to the inside sidewall of case. Your unit may perform better with the copper tab, although, I think there will still be more interference due to the antenna lead being inside the case. On mine, the difference between the factory mounting location and the lead being routed out the back (through the rear mounting bracket hole and then attached to center upper rear housing screw) has been a massive improvement in both signal strength and throughput. If I was not pressed for time during the antenna fix, I would have taken pictures as well as mounted a RP-SMA Antenna on the back housing like the one in the link below.
2.4G 2.5dBI Wireless RP-SMA Antenna with Extension Cord Cheap hot sale
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171505160014?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Further, I did ask Hotaudio for help with the ridiculously weak wifi signal and directly related low throughput issue, but they only suggested using a USB WiFi adapter instead of the internal WiFi radio. D'oh! And even then, there was no information on which adapter would work, or how to set it up, where to get the drivers, or where to get it. In turn, I pulled the HU, relocated the antenna lead, and tried to explain to them the poor factory antenna location problem. This was more than a month ago, so hopefully they are doing a better job on new units. Please note, my Winmark HU has the WiFi antenna routed out the back and it works great. Also, the forthcoming Joying HU routes the antenna out the back too, so hopefully it will work great as well. Anyway, if you're bench testing your HU prior to install, you can at least test the signal strength and throughput and compare it to your phone etc., and then decide if you need to reroute or not. Although, if you like to connect to home or work WiFi networks, I'd recommend relocating and upgrading the antenna.
Yikes... my apologies for type rambling...
Best to all,
R
rhacy said:
My opinion of this HA HU is that it's cheaply made and far from perfect. For example, I had to relocate the WiFi antenna out the back, as the factory location inside of the unit was poorly designed to save a few cents per unit. To clarify, moving the antenna lead out the back of the unit increased throughput up and down by 10x + on my unit. Moreover, my HA HU also has an input switching issue with my vehicle's factory amp that creates a single loud popping sound through the speakers when switching from music to radio inputs or when turning the vehicle off. That said, this issue was not present at all with a prior Winmark Android HU in the same vehicle. I even installed a RCA ground loop isolator - noise filter and made sure the ground was to chassis, but the input switching loud single popping sound is still a problem with this HU. I'm guessing it's an issue with how crudely this HU the switches power, which is unlike the soft power switch and volume ramp up of my last Android HU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you ever solve the popping sound before you switched to the Joying? This is my second HotAudio unit, my first one had a power issue. They sent me a new one at no cost, but this has the speaker popping as you described. My first one did not have this issue. And no word from Summer yet. I really don't want to go through the hassle of shipping this one back and waiting another 2 weeks for a new one. Frustrating.
vdubskey said:
Did you ever solve the popping sound before you switched to the Joying? This is my second HotAudio unit, my first one had a power issue. They sent me a new one at no cost, but this has the speaker popping as you described. My first one did not have this issue. And no word from Summer yet. I really don't want to go through the hassle of shipping this one back and waiting another 2 weeks for a new one. Frustrating.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi vdubskey,
No... I haven't solved the Hotaudio single loud popping sound when switching audio inputs or turning off yet. On an encouraging note, Summer sent me a link to new ROM and MCU images yesterday should fix the single loud audio popping sound. I'm guessing the fix is in updated MCU audio switching assembly code, but I've already installed the Joying HU and it's been working great for the most part. To clarify, out of the box the Joying HU has zero audio pop issues, decent WiFi throughput, and is obviously faster due to the quad core. The only issue with it so far is low mic volume and some background buzzing noise for the person on the receiving end of my Bluetooth paired phone calls. D'oh! There always seems to be some issue with these head units.
Anyway, if Summer has not sent you the download link to the New4_rk3066_h(20150831) ROM & MCU images yet, you can pm me for the link. Please note that I'm going to email Summer and will post the link and password here if she gives me permission to do so.
Best to all,
R
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
butthead123 said:
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this same HU and it has been nothing short of perfect for me. Try and update the MCU to the new (20150831) HA file and then put in Malaysk's ROM. The popping sound should be MCU related not ROM so you shouldn't have any problems.
I personally haven't updated my MCU yet so I still have that popping sounds, only the ROM to Malaysk's Aug24-2015 and it's running flawless. I bearly notice the pop anyways.
butthead123 said:
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great news. She just sent me a link with a firmware date of 09/09/2015 so hopefully it fixes it. Yea I appreciate all the work Malaysk has done but all of the UI changes done are not to my taste. The stock firmware looks much better IMO. I just extract the stock firmware images and rebuild with the modded apps I use and use then flash and apply *#hct#root# to root and install xposed and get the same experience with the same look as stock. Works for me [emoji6]
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Summer at Hotaudio has given me permission to post the links below that should fix the single loud audio pop when switching inputs or when turning off.
Please note that these ROM Firmware images should be for 1024x600 Hotaudio Dual Core RK3066 & Quad Core RK3188 Head Units, but I haven't testing them yet, so use at your own risk.
Hotaudio Rockchip RK3066 8-31-15 ROM Firmware & MCU Images:
http://yunpan.cn/cm4nU7wHDzcuA password:2782
Hotaudio Rockchip RK3188 9-8-15 ROM Firmware & MCU Images:
http://yunpan.cn/cmtZjSvdtbqqv password:6389
Thanks in advance for any feedback.
R
Yup that's the firmware I downloaded, the 9/8/15 one. I upgraded to a quadcore SOM for this radio. I'll try the MCU image first and see if it solves my problem and then the UPDATE image if I need to. Should get these posted to the HuiFei file server as well. At least the MCU files anyways.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
vdubskey said:
Yup that's the firmware I downloaded, the 9/8/15 one. I upgraded to a quadcore SOM for this radio. I'll try the MCU image first and see if it solves my problem and then the UPDATE image if I need to. Should get these posted to the HuiFei file server as well. At least the MCU files anyways.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! Please let us know if the single loud audio pop goes away or not. Also, once you flash the MCU, could you post the MCU version number for the new RK3188 MCU from your Settings - about section?
Moreover, once I know the both the new HA RK3066 and RK3188 MCU version numbers, I'll see if I or someone can post them to the HuiFei and mega.nz file servers - ( https://mega.nz/#F!KMZnXTJC!zDFMlP4qgxEE6vQxt8rrrw ), or if you do, please let us know.
Thanks again.
R
The MCU that was included in the 3188 download is v2.73. And that is what my system already had prior. I am still getting the pop randomly when switching music and radio apps. Although I haven't got the pop on boot or shutdown yet except a very tiny one that might have been related to something else. I'll have to do some more testing.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Hey guys, I am a total noob when it comes to dealing with these android head units. I am wondering if anyone can tell me if there is any way to have music (I.e. Mp3, radio, or other sources) to play continually, or at least while I am in the Nav app. Riding in silence just to use the Nav is not cool....
vdubskey said:
The MCU that was included in the 3188 download is v2.73. And that is what my system already had prior. I am still getting the pop randomly when switching music and radio apps. Although I haven't got the pop on boot or shutdown yet except a very tiny one that might have been related to something else. I'll have to do some more testing.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yikes! I updated to MCU 2.73 on my HA rk3066 about month ago and still had the single loud audio pop when switching inputs or turning off. Regardless, thanks for posting the MCU version. It's probably a waste of time, but I'll bench flash the MCU included with latest rk3066 ROM from Summer to see if it's newer than 2.73.
Bigjoe1025 said:
Hey guys, I am a total noob when it comes to dealing with these android head units. I am wondering if anyone can tell me if there is any way to have music (I.e. Mp3, radio, or other sources) to play continually, or at least while I am in the Nav app. Riding in silence just to use the Nav is not cool....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try going into Settings > GPS and selecting Mixing. There, you can also adjust the volume settings between your music and gps voice directions. Please note that this GPS volume setting may not work if you're using a GPS app with text to speech street names.
Hope this helps...
Best to all,
R
butthead123 said:
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey can you post the version number of the MCU that took the pop away. Also the firmware date? Is your unit a dual core or quadcore. Thanks.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Update: I went ahead and flashed the update.img after the MCU.img had no effect and it has resolved the speaker popping. So it turns out the even tho the MCU probably does handle the input switching, it must have been how the OS handled the execution. No facts to back that up but just my opinion. Now I have to mod this version all over again and setup my apps but oh well.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
vdubskey said:
Update: I went ahead and flashed the update.img after the MCU.img had no effect and it has resolved the speaker popping. So it turns out the even tho the MCU probably does handle the input switching, it must have been how the OS handled the execution. No facts to back that up but just my opinion. Now I have to mod this version all over again and setup my apps but oh well.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for posting that the latest Update Image from Summer at Hotaudio fixes the audio pop. I did bench load the included MCU for the HA rk3066. Unfortunately, it was version 2.60, so I knew it would not help. Thanks again for verifying the fix is the new firmware.
Cheers,
R
Another update: So the newest firmware fixes the pop when switching from radio to music and vice versa perfectly. Haven't had a pop yet. But I'm still getting a random pop here and there on ignition off. So I think I'm going to going to wire my DCDC-USB power supply in-between the unit and the battery so I can use the power off delay function to make sure my amp is powered off before the unit so I don't get the pop. Hopefully it works out.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Does anyone know how to get into recovery mode? This model doesn't have physical buttons but it still has the reset button. I tried going from maylask's to the original img. After flashing, it never booted successfully and now I'm stuck on the android logo screen. Any pointers ?
I bought an OEM style android head unit from Pumpkin Auto for the Mazda 6. I would post a link, but the noob rules won't let me yet. But you can find it on their site by searching for Mazda head units, and looking for the Mazda 6 version. It's the 7 inch quad-core.
Everything was fine for awhile except that I noticed It would make 2 beeps every time I turned on my car, and then randomly while driving, it would beep twice again. I tried to find a connection for the beeps, but they would happen while driving, while not moving, day, night, etc. I've looked online and I can't seem to find any reason for what the 2 beeps mean. However, now I am thinking they have something to do with either being over-powered or under powered.
It's been about 2 months since I installed it, and then a week ago I heard a click while driving and the radio went off. Checking the fuse box confirmed that it blew the fuse. I replaced the fuse, and it blew the new one immediately. Oddly enough I tried replacing the fuse with a higher amp (went from 15 to 20) and that did not blow, but putting a 15 amp in does blow. This past weekend I pulled the radio to check for any shorts in the wires, but couldn't find any. The connectors are all OEM, which was nice for installation, but also means there are no exposed wires, or taped ends. After putting it all back together and replacing the fuse again, it didn't blow for a few days. But now it's back to blowing the fuse immediately.
I am at a loss for what else to check or do at this point. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated? As well as any direction on what the beeping could mean would be awesome!
Someone with knowledge need to open the headunit and check the Power IC and the Amplifier section.
How many speakers you have? Try to disconnect them and see what's happend? Are the beeps gone?
Do you have external amp?
amonev said:
Someone with knowledge need to open the headunit and check the Power IC and the Amplifier section.
How many speakers you have? Try to disconnect them and see what's happend? Are the beeps gone?
Do you have external amp?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've got 4 speakers and I'm not using an amp.
This headunit was OEM designed, meaning I'm still using the OEM connector. So I can't disconnect the speakers with out disconnecting power and everything else.
Thanks for the idea though.
I have installed a similar car radio from Ownice C500 (Octa core, 2GB RAM) in my Mazda 6 for a couple of days ago. I hear also 2 fairly loud beeps every time I start my car and also randomly during driving. I didn't think it was a problem though
I got the same issue. Just installed Android 8.0, Octa Core Head Unit in my Mazda 6 model 2010. I also got two random beeps now and then. It would be nice to know what causes these beeps and how to get rid of them if possible.
What head units do you guys have installed. I've also just recently installed an Idoing PX5 /octa-core, 2GB, 32GB) unit, specifically made for the Mazda 6 (mine is a GH from 2012). So far everything works fine except those damn annoying random beeps. Would like to know what causes it to be able to turn it off.
No blown fuse on my side yet. Hopefully it will stay that way.
I recently bought Pumpkin head unit to my Audi A3. HU itself is quite nice, fits like original, and software is surprisingly good and stable (I had some doubts but decided to buy it anyway). Problem is that there is no ACC wired in car's connectors, instead original unit is powered off via CAN. Now, when I turn off the engine, HU powers off too, while it should stay on, and power off when I pull the key from ignition switch. This means, I can't listen music without having all ignition powers turned on. I earlier had an Alpine HU, and it worked perfectly, eg. powered off when I pulled key from ignition switch.
Is there any way to tweak this behaviour in android side? Or is this CAN decoder's job? Other than powering off, CAN controls seems to work ok (multifunction wheel, dimming, etc).
Details from my unit are: RK3188, KLD6, 800x480. CAN-bus decoder doesn't have much info, just KLD(AUDI-SS-01), SS-AD011030158-0.
sohlo said:
I recently bought Pumpkin head unit to my Audi A3. HU itself is quite nice, fits like original, and software is surprisingly good and stable (I had some doubts but decided to buy it anyway). Problem is that there is no ACC wired in car's connectors, instead original unit is powered off via CAN. Now, when I turn off the engine, HU powers off too, while it should stay on, and power off when I pull the key from ignition switch. This means, I can't listen music without having all ignition powers turned on. I earlier had an Alpine HU, and it worked perfectly, eg. powered off when I pulled key from ignition switch.
Is there any way to tweak this behaviour in android side? Or is this CAN decoder's job? Other than powering off, CAN controls seems to work ok (multifunction wheel, dimming, etc).
Details from my unit are: RK3188, KLD6, 800x480. CAN-bus decoder doesn't have much info, just KLD(AUDI-SS-01), SS-AD011030158-0.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine came with a harness that tied into my canbus, I'm sure your unit has the capability you probably just need the decoder that is specific to your vehicle. On a side note I to have a RK3188 800x480 and am looking for someone to pull the stock recovery. If you're willing let me know it won't harm your unit.
Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
dave5777 said:
Mine came with a harness that tied into my canbus, I'm sure your unit has the capability you probably just need the decoder that is specific to your vehicle. On a side note I to have a RK3188 800x480 and am looking for someone to pull the stock recovery. If you're willing let me now it won't harm your unit.
Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't know about the decoder, it should be ok, at least there's "For: AUDI A3/A4" in it. Tried to google it, I can find lot's of same looking decoders, but not much helpful info about it.
I can pull the stock firmware, just need to learn how to do it. I've been doing electronics and linux stuff for ages, but Android world is still bit new to me.
sohlo said:
Don't know about the decoder, it should be ok, at least there's "For: AUDI A3/A4" in it. Tried to google it, I can find lot's of same looking decoders, but not much helpful info about it.
I can pull the stock firmware, just need to learn how to do it. I've been doing electronics and linux stuff for ages, but Android world is still bit new to me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://android.stackexchange.com/questions/132314/can-we-backup-the-stock-recovery-img-in-any-way
Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
Ok, I will give it a try tomorrow.
Interested in the unit you bought.
I'm interested in your unit. Where did you buy it, could you please send me the unit's link?
u.r.rible said:
I'm interested in your unit. Where did you buy it, could you please send me the unit's link?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since I still have so low post count, I can't post links. Google "11-C1217-UK-A" and you will find correct HU from Pumpkin's website.
I sent question to Pumpkin too, and an answer from them: "it's normal when you turn the ignition key to off position the unit will switch off, cause the unit switching off is controlled by your car canbus system, and it sync with your car instrument panel".
Still, I don't consider this as a normal, since Audi OE head unit, and also earlier Alpine head unit didn't power off until I actually took the key off from the ignition switch. All Audi's I have and have had behaves like this, from the oldest Audi 80 (1994) to the newest.
So, is there any ways to analyze CAN data, and tweak the unit so that it would power off when key is taken away from ignition switch?
Dave, sorry I still don't have the recovery image, so busy days, and I'm missing USB cable to connect to the unit. But ADB is installed etc, so it will come eventually
sohlo said:
I sent question to Pumpkin too, and an answer from them: "it's normal when you turn the ignition key to off position the unit will switch off, cause the unit switching off is controlled by your car canbus system, and it sync with your car instrument panel".
Still, I don't consider this as a normal, since Audi OE head unit, and also earlier Alpine head unit didn't power off until I actually took the key off from the ignition switch. All Audi's I have and have had behaves like this, from the oldest Audi 80 (1994) to the newest.
So, is there any ways to analyze CAN data, and tweak the unit so that it would power off when key is taken away from ignition switch?
Dave, sorry I still don't have the recovery image, so busy days, and I'm missing USB cable to connect to the unit. But ADB is installed etc, so it will come eventually
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No rush whenever you have time my unit is working just no recovery.
I think I remember reading in the HU Q&A thread a way to change canbus options I'll try to find it.
Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
Hi sohlo....
I haven't answer for your prob, but i just want to say that my Greenyi HU run exactly like you suggest.......if i turn off, the HU still ON, and switch off only if i keep the keys out from the ignition.
So, it's possible.....but don't know how...sorry.....
sohlo said:
I recently bought Pumpkin head unit to my Audi A3. HU itself is quite nice, fits like original, and software is surprisingly good and stable (I had some doubts but decided to buy it anyway). Problem is that there is no ACC wired in car's connectors, instead original unit is powered off via CAN. Now, when I turn off the engine, HU powers off too, while it should stay on, and power off when I pull the key from ignition switch. This means, I can't listen music without having all ignition powers turned on. I earlier had an Alpine HU, and it worked perfectly, eg. powered off when I pulled key from ignition switch.
Is there any way to tweak this behaviour in android side? Or is this CAN decoder's job? Other than powering off, CAN controls seems to work ok (multifunction wheel, dimming, etc).
Details from my unit are: RK3188, KLD6, 800x480. CAN-bus decoder doesn't have much info, just KLD(AUDI-SS-01), SS-AD011030158-0.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi there, ive recently installed the same on my A3 (well an android head) can you tell me the age of yours and what loom connector you bought? some of them mix the live and ignition live up and they just need swopping over.
PS are your rear speakers working? took me ages to fix mine
vettahead said:
Hi there, ive recently installed the same on my A3 (well an android head) can you tell me the age of yours and what loom connector you bought? some of them mix the live and ignition live up and they just need swopping over.
PS are your rear speakers working? took me ages to fix mine
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Click to collapse
My A3 is 2005. I have ISO connectors (non-BOSE), since originally my A3 is single din and I converted it to double din. I have checked wires again and again, they seem to be fine. Permanent live goes where it should, and ACC hasn't been wired at all in car side, because of CAN power off. You have same Pumpkin HU?
My rears are working OK, I just have to set fader quite heavily to back, like 70-80%. I had the same problem with earlier Alpine unit, had to set fader way back.
SKOLSC said:
Hi sohlo....
I haven't answer for your prob, but i just want to say that my Greenyi HU run exactly like you suggest.......if i turn off, the HU still ON, and switch off only if i keep the keys out from the ignition.
So, it's possible.....but don't know how...sorry.....
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Click to collapse
It seems that your unit is KGL/HuiFei (mine's KLD/Klyde), so there's propably some differences. Also CAN adapter might be different. Can you confirm this?
I was finally able to extract the stock recovery from the Update.img https://www.dropbox.com/s/9b3azwgmqm...overy.img?dl=0
This is from RK3188 800x480 KitKat 4.4.2 KLD6 2.81
Thanks to @RedScorpioXDA for his Rockchip Unpacker Tool http://forum.xda-developers.com/show....php?t=2257331
dave5777 said:
I was finally able to extract the stock recovery from the Update.img https://www.dropbox.com/s/9b3azwgmqm...overy.img?dl=0
This is from RK3188 800x480 KitKat 4.4.2 KLD6 2.81
Thanks to @RedScorpioXDA for his Rockchip Unpacker Tool http://forum.xda-developers.com/show....php?t=2257331
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good to hear. I still haven't been able to get adb detect my unit, actually when I connect usb, even lsusb doesn't show anything. I have tried to turn on adb in the unit (adbon), but still no luck. Well, will continue to try
sohlo said:
Good to hear. I still haven't been able to get adb detect my unit, actually when I connect usb, even lsusb doesn't show anything. I have tried to turn on adb in the unit (adbon), but still no luck. Well, will continue to try
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think the only way is to use adb over WiFi.
If you need to root your HU this is the method I used
Flashing a pre-rooted rom doesn't seem to be the only way any more. If you go to Settings->Factory Settings, and enter**#hct#root#* as the password, it enables root on the device.
This appears to be a permanent root which persists after reboots.
Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
So it seems, at least usb was all dead for adb. Need to study more, first time ever trying to debug Android.
Actually, seller agreed to accept return and refund the unit, so I might switch to HuiFei/KGL unit if I just get a confirmation that it works better. Now I just would like to know if this CAN issue is because of the CAN bus decoder, or because of unit configuration. It was mentioned earlier that GreenYi unit works, and it seems to be KGL, but then again, I don't know is it decoder or unit which makes the decision of power off.
sohlo said:
So it seems, at least usb was all dead for adb. Need to study more, first time ever trying to debug Android.
Actually, seller agreed to accept return and refund the unit, so I might switch to HuiFei/KGL unit if I just get a confirmation that it works better. Now I just would like to know if this CAN issue is because of the CAN bus decoder, or because of unit configuration. It was mentioned earlier that GreenYi unit works, and it seems to be KGL, but then again, I don't know is it decoder or unit which makes the decision of power off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One thing to check, go to factory settings enter 126 as password and verify your canbus is setup for Audi.
Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
dave5777 said:
One thing to check, go to factory settings enter 126 as password and verify your canbus is setup for Audi.
Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Strange thing is that canbus is set to none. And if I set it to Audi (or anything else), steering wheel controls etc doesn't work at all.
sohlo said:
Strange thing is that canbus is set to none. And if I set it to Audi (or anything else), steering wheel controls etc doesn't work at all.
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Click to collapse
That is strange, with it set to Audi does it stay on until you pull the key out? There's also a steering wheel mapping utility in factory setting I believe have you tried changing that with Audi selected? Make sure you take a screen shot of your original settings.
Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
My new head unit arrived the other day. Ordered it from AliExpress and it took less than a week to get here. I sought out a replacement because my previous Android head unit (Eonon GA5153) was having issues. It performed great for just over a year without any issues. A couple weeks ago my car battery started draining and I couldn't figure out why. It wasn't until I went to grab something out of my car at night that I realized the lights around the unit were still illuminated. Not only that but the fan was still going. I searched thread after thread and I couldn't seem to find an answer other than installing a toggle switch on the accessory wire. I found the Witson 9 inch unit for $245.00 and decided to give it a shot. After unboxing and wiring everything up I realized that the radio trim wouldn't go on because the edges were somewhat squared off in the back of the unit. It clearly isn't a perfect fit for my vehicle (2008 VW R32) but I wasn't going to let a small problem like some square edges prevent me from enjoying a new head unit...that and sending it back to China. I pulled out the old Dremel and used a sanding attachment at low speed and fixed the problem in less than 5 minutes. The unit looks great. Fits just as well as the Eonon did. The only issues Ive had thus far involve the unit not remembering certain things when its shut down. The LOUD beep that occurs with every touch has to be shut off every time I start the car. The radio starts up every time the car is started as well and doesn't save any of the pre-sets. The adjustments to the equalizer wont save either. If anyone could help me out with these issues Id greatly appreciate it! Thanks!
TicketToKickIt said:
My new head unit arrived the other day. Ordered it from AliExpress and it took less than a week to get here. I sought out a replacement because my previous Android head unit (Eonon GA5153) was having issues. It performed great for just over a year without any issues. A couple weeks ago my car battery started draining and I couldn't figure out why. It wasn't until I went to grab something out of my car at night that I realized the lights around the unit were still illuminated. Not only that but the fan was still going. I searched thread after thread and I couldn't seem to find an answer other than installing a toggle switch on the accessory wire. I found the Witson 9 inch unit for $245.00 and decided to give it a shot. After unboxing and wiring everything up I realized that the radio trim wouldn't go on because the edges were somewhat squared off in the back of the unit. It clearly isn't a perfect fit for my vehicle (2008 VW R32) but I wasn't going to let a small problem like some square edges prevent me from enjoying a new head unit...that and sending it back to China. I pulled out the old Dremel and used a sanding attachment at low speed and fixed the problem in less than 5 minutes. The unit looks great. Fits just as well as the Eonon did. The only issues Ive had thus far involve the unit not remembering certain things when its shut down. The LOUD beep that occurs with every touch has to be shut off every time I start the car. The radio starts up every time the car is started as well and doesn't save any of the pre-sets. The adjustments to the equalizer wont save either. If anyone could help me out with these issues Id greatly appreciate it! Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seems like you have swapped red and yellow cables. Yellow should be always on +12 volt. Red is controlled via ACC, i.e. on when your starter switch
is in acc or running it supplies +12 volt. The yellow, always on, keeps the memory powered. i.e. radio stations are saved and so on.
[dormancy setting] - DORMANCY IF CUT ACC --> ON If you select a hidden setting to radio sleep after cutting off ACC,do not turn off the radio will remember your settings. It will be up to speed will execute and will not beeps when touching.
Hey all, last weekend i had a Joying VM130N2 had unit installed in my 2006 Mk5, and since I have had constant battery issues. I have done plenty of searching, but I am yet to find anything.. I thought it was alternator, seems not, then settings in the head unit which isn't looking like the solution..
I am not the best with card and am at my wits end! Any help would be really, really appreciated
Thanks
Mike.
Wired it wrong?
How do you know its the radio? Have you actually tested it?
Wired by an auto electrician and then rechecked it after the battery drain was first detected.
Some people have suggested that it could be the canbus controller? :S
I never managed to solve the Joying battery drain in my Mk5 Golf. Swapping wires was no help, so CANBUS controller was certainly a possibility.
What did you do in the end man?
robjg said:
I never managed to solve the Joying battery drain in my Mk5 Golf. Swapping wires was no help, so CANBUS controller was certainly a possibility.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I gave up tbh. I loved using PowerAmp, Google Maps, a cheap (compared to VW OEM) rear view camera, but the awful FM signal, constant battery drain and another annoying bugs made me switch back to a VW OEM stereo.
Mine was an older Android 4.4.4 unit, so may consider giving an Android 6 unit a try in the future if they can sort out these issues.
robjg said:
I gave up tbh. I loved using PowerAmp, Google Maps, a cheap (compared to VW OEM) rear view camera, but the awful FM signal, constant battery drain and another annoying bugs made me switch back to a VW OEM stereo.
Mine was an older Android 4.4.4 unit, so may consider giving an Android 6 unit a try in the future if they can sort out these issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well they seem sure that it shouldn't cause a flat battery :S
It was 100% the unit causing it in mine. As soon as I swapped back to OEM VW head unit, no flat batteries.
With the Joying, I would lose 0.5v approx overnight
You need to swap can-gateway in VW MK5 Years like 2004-2008. You can buy from me. About 70 Euro.
OK, so I have replaced the battery, and it seems that it may be draining slowly again.. I tried running without canbus, with the accessories cable connected, however it doesn't turn off when I take the key out. What do i do? Is it possible to bypass canbus?
mwhelan182 said:
OK, so I have replaced the battery, and it seems that it may be draining slowly again.. I tried running without canbus, with the accessories cable connected, however it doesn't turn off when I take the key out. What do i do? Is it possible to bypass canbus?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Read my post about VAG cars, Joying and the CAN-bus.
https://forum.carjoying.com/thread-709-workaround-for-canbus-sleep-issues-on-skodavwseat.html
As the website throws away the photos every so much months you need to take the pdf from post 8 (but start reading from post 1)
surfer63 said:
Read my post about VAG cars, Joying and the CAN-bus.
As the website throws away the photos every so much months you need to take the pdf from post 8 (but start reading from post 1)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hmm ... that link does not work anymore. Do you know whether this information is still relevant in the case of VW and the March 1 update?
buurman42 said:
hmm ... that link does not work anymore. Do you know whether this information is still relevant in the case of VW and the March 1 update?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
March 1 update? That's old.
It is not relevant to the firmware version. It has to do with the CANbus and the 2 ways VAG connects its cars.
See here the pdf.
surfer63 said:
March 1 update? That's old.
It is not relevant to the firmware version. It has to do with the CANbus and the 2 ways VAG connects its cars.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much, this is just what i was looking for!
About the update; It looks new to me... Check the blog at the joyingauto site for te 1 march update.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 10 met Tapatalk
buurman42 said:
Thank you very much, this is just what i was looking for!
About the update; It looks new to me... Check the blog at the joyingauto site for te 1 march update.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 10 met Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the date of the blog post, the firmware is dated 12618
VW Passat B6 aftermarket radio drain issue Solved.
Hey I had a similar issue. I have a 2006 Passat 2.0T , I had the base stereo=premium 7 . I purchased a aftermarket Podofo 9" Android radio for my Passat.
It came with a canbus box, I installed it plug and play . Had horrible battery drain. I could not figure out wth was going on. Then I ran into this video from Dan Sohan on YouTube . I can't post links here because I'm a new user and it's disabled till the 10th post not sure why. But anyways I can give links to solve this issue 1000% and stop the battery drain.
Basically you cut the factory can hi and can low from the harness and run the can hi and can low from climate unit that's basically piggy backed on the climate control canbus wires. For me it's solved everything. I can leave the car for 3-4 days no issues... battery doesn't have the so called parasitic drain anymore and I believe it is the root cause to many aftermarket stereo installs on these newers VW's that did not use the K Line wire system and instead a CAN Hi + and CAN Low - ........hopefully these links help you guys like they did me I went through alot of headaches with the unit but overall it's a great unit , backup camera with sensors works flawlessly, GPS is great only downfall is Sound quality is not great but overall a good unit and not many people will notice the sound quality difference with something like this vs their stock unit. All the credit for this fix goes to Dan Sohan and his YouTube video .
ArfanZakB6 said:
Hey I had a similar issue. I have a 2006 Passat 2.0T , I had the base stereo=premium 7 . I purchased a aftermarket Podofo 9" Android radio for my Passat.
It came with a canbus box, I installed it plug and play . Had horrible battery drain. I could not figure out wth was going on. Then I ran into this video from Dan Sohan on YouTube . I can't post links here because I'm a new user and it's disabled till the 10th post not sure why. But anyways I can give links to solve this issue 1000% and stop the battery drain.
Basically you cut the factory can hi and can low from the harness and run the can hi and can low from climate unit that's basically piggy backed on the climate control canbus wires. For me it's solved everything. I can leave the car for 3-4 days no issues... battery doesn't have the so called parasitic drain anymore and I believe it is the root cause to many aftermarket stereo installs on these newers VW's that did not use the K Line wire system and instead a CAN Hi + and CAN Low - ........hopefully these links help you guys like they did me I went through alot of headaches with the unit but overall it's a great unit , backup camera with sensors works flawlessly, GPS is great only downfall is Sound quality is not great but overall a good unit and not many people will notice the sound quality difference with something like this vs their stock unit. All the credit for this fix goes to Dan Sohan and his YouTube video .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi
I have the drain battery problem on my 2014 qashqai. The life of battery is one year.
You have bypass the canbus?
Could I have the video?
Thanks
Hi all,
I am also suffering from battery drain on my RK1388 MTCD_MX. It was confirmed by my garage who measured 500mA from the radio while the ignition is shut off.
It seems the problem started after I recently did an MCU update from MTCD_MX 2.56 to MTCE_MX 3.73. I checked the "Shutdown delay when ACC OFF" setting after the update and tried several settings, without result.
The strange thing is that regardless of the "Shutdown delay when ACC OFF" setting, if I quickly turn the ignition off and on, the unit will always do a cold boot. So this is strange in two ways:
1. Why doesn't it behave according to the setting
2. Why does my battery drain if it indeed the unit is being shutdown and not sleeping when I turn the ignition off.
The wiring seems all ok (it is plug & play adapter), I measured everything: Red = ACC, Yellow +, Black ground). The only thing I noticed is that the ACC still has 0,14 V when the ignition is shut off. Could this be the source of battery drain?
Today I removed the unit and started measuring currents.
The smoking gun for me was the MCU update. However, I did not want to fully revert to MCU_MX 2.56 because under that version I had problems with the unit remembering radio presets for which I opened another thread.
After I set everything up such that I could measure red and yellow wire I found out that indeed the unit does not fully shut down when I take the carkey out of the ignition, despite the unit reporting 'shutting down'. After the shutdown delay (in my case 30s) the current was still around 400mA.
After downgrading from MTCE_MX_v3.73 to MTCD_MX_v2.56 the issue was gone. After removing the carkey and waiting for 30 seconds, the current indeed dropped to 0 mA. So this MCU version would not drain my battery.
I now upgraded to the before last MCU version MTCE_MX_v3.30, and with that version the issue did NOT return. So my conclusion is that for some reason complete shutdown does not happen under MTCE_MX_v3.73, hence this version is not okay!
It does make sense that radio presents were never gone after I updated to MTCE_MX_v3.73 as the unit would never fully shut down. Only after the battery drained I lost my channels again. Let's hope that the radio channel presets are preserved under the MCU version I am now running (no clue if it has anything to do with it). That issue is super annoying!
BiscuitR said:
After I set everything up such that I could measure red and yellow wire I found out that indeed the unit does not fully shut down when I take the carkey out of the ignition, despite the unit reporting 'shutting down'. After the shutdown delay (in my case 30s) the current was still around 400mA.
After downgrading from MTCE_MX_v3.73 to MTCD_MX_v2.56 the issue was gone. After removing the carkey and waiting for 30 seconds, the current indeed dropped to 0 mA. So this MCU version would not drain my battery.
I now upgraded to the before last MCU version MTCE_MX_v3.30, and with that version the issue did NOT return. So my conclusion is that for some reason complete shutdown does not happen under MTCE_MX_v3.73, hence this version is not okay!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope you reported this issue and your analysis to Joying. It is really important info. [email protected]