Database Users

Hotaudio Model 2100: 2DIN 7" 1024x600 RK3066 Android 4.4.4

Hi Guys,
I've been searching but couldn't find info on this head unit. It looks like they upgraded the screen to 7" 1024x600 on an older dual core 1.6Ghz RK3066 to make a universal 2DIN unit. It seems to be a recently released model, looks like a nice unit for a good value.
Does anyone have this HU or know about it? Hotaudio seems to be the original manufacturer, is there a better known clone of this unit?
All I can find searching for "Hotaudio 2100" are some posts on a Russian forum:
https://www.drive2.ru/l/7069581/
https://www.drive2.ru/l/7031068/
They're on Aliexpress and Ebay:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Dual...ole-size-176mm-101mm-No-disc/32342857044.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1024-600-An...mm-176mm-7-inch-navi-radio-wifi-/251948090321
Any info or ideas?

Hi. This Hotaudio RK3066 - 1024X600 HU is considered a HuiFei type, so check out the thread below for more info:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2660662
Here's another thread on this specific HA HU that could help too:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/and...in-s07-android-4-4-using-rk3066-root-t3155372
Also, below's a link to Malaysk's Custom Rk3066 - 1024X600 ROM Images that have worked well for me with this HU:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=58249825&postcount=7614
And here's a link the MCU images for BN-HA RK3066 / RK3188 specific models:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=61291848&postcount=14139
My opinion of this HA HU is that it's inexpensively made and not perfect. For example, I had to relocate the WiFi antenna out the back, as the factory location inside of the unit created a very weak signal. To clarify, moving the antenna lead out the back of the unit increased throughput up and down by at least 10x + on my unit. Moreover, my HA HU also has an input switching issue with my vehicle's factory amp that creates a single loud popping sound through the speakers when switching from music to radio inputs or when turning the vehicle off. That said, this issue was not present at all with a prior Winmark Android HU in the same vehicle. I even installed a RCA ground loop isolator - noise filter and made sure the ground was to chassis, but the input switching loud single popping sound is still a problem with this HU. I'm guessing it's an issue with how crudely this HU the switches power, which is unlike the soft power switch and volume ramp up of my last Android HU.
Another issue with many of these Android type head units including this one is the boot up time. It's at least 20-30 seconds, but you can set the HU shut down time delay up to two hours. Still, it's not equal to having an any time almost instant on HU like my last one.
All the above said, this HU is decent if you can find it for around $200 US, but I'd recommend going with something of higher quality if cost is not a big concern, or at the least look for one of these units or similar ones with the quad core RK3188 processor and good support.
Bottom line is that these units are inexpensively made IMHO, but they can be fun to work with; thanks to Malaysk and all the excellent XDA developers and contributors. Plus, I still have not found any higher quality brand names to date that run pure android, OBD2, and have as many other app options available.
Best to all,
R

Thanks a lot for your informative post rhacy.
My unit just came in and I was wondering if this was the WiFi antenna you relocated out the back?
There seems to be an adhesive copper antenna tab taped to the inside of the chassis near the screen at the front of the unit. If you route it out the back wouldn't it put the antenna further away from the seats where you'd want the stronger WiFi signal? Was the stock placement of your antenna the same way?
Your previous Winmark HU with the instant boot up time was a Windows CE unit with Android running in a VM, or was it pure Android? I've seen the option in xdAuto firmware for the Carpad HUs to set sleep delay for 1day, 2days so it will instantly boot as long you drive every few days. I wonder if we can do that on these HuiFei units somehow?
I've seen mention in the changelog of an adapter that addresses factory amp pop by introducing a delay before switching the input, at least during turn-on. Maybe using an adapter like this might address the issue?
http://www.pac-audio.com/firmware/RP/RP4-CH11.html
Release Notes for RP firmware
2/13/2015 Rev 1.5.4.4:
Adds Fusion
Separates Sony & Pioneer
Adds Alpine VR command
Factory amp turn-on delay slightly longer to avoid turn-on pop
Fixes LED problem without proper radio selection
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have Steering Wheel Controls working with your unit? Does your vehicle have resistive controls or canbus?
I'm going to hook mine up to power and test it out, will report any issues to this thread. Anyone who has one of these Hotaudio model 2100 please post your experience.

Hi rcll,
Your more than welcome and thank you for the heads up and link for an adapter that addresses factory amp pop by introducing a delay before switching the inputs, at least at amp turn on. Cheers!
Here's a link to one I found on ebay that looks like it may work in some instances:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAC-TR-4-Ca...gger-Module-/191226517960?hash=item2c85fd19c8
Moreover, I'll do some more research and try to find an adapter that can sense any input switch and soft switch the amp. Well... I will if the new Android HU I just purchased has the same single loud popping sound when switching inputs or turning off. The new HU is a Joying JY-UQ124 Quad Core RK3188 1024*600 16GB 2 DIN system. It was purchased because I missed having an actual volume knob and wanted to upgrade to a quad core as well as see if it would fix the loud single pop sound issue.
Please note that I have emailed Hotaudio multiple times over the last month or so about the loud single pop sound issue when switching audio inputs etc., and Summer has stated that they are working on the problem and will send me a fix if and when they figure it out.
Also, if it helps at all, the Hotaudio HU is installed currently in a 2003 Mitsubishi Montero Limited with the factory infinity amp, 6 speakers, and a Polk sub-woofer. It's a non CANbus and non SWC SUV. As I mentioned in my previous post, there were zero single loud popping noise issues with the Winmark Android HU that I installed in the Montero prior this HA HU. The Winmark has a gentle audio input switching and a nice soft volume ramp up on any input including the radio. It was listed as a Pure Android Single DIN HU with the pop out 7" 1024x600 display and it has worked well. I only replaced it because I did not like how far it stuck out of the dash even with the display in. Plus, the display had to pop out in order for me to see my reverse camera or access my nav apps and that got old real fast. Also, I was concerned that the display motor or its ribbon cable would fail eventually.
Here's a link to Winmark Pure Android 4.1 Single DIN HU:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Pure-Android-4-1-universal-1_60150935774.html
To clarify further, the Winmark Pure Android HU is instant on when using the android music player or radio, but it does take 10 seconds for the display to pop out and up. That said, I'm guessing that there must be a sleep or standby mode for the Mstar system that Rockchip does not deploy. Plus, I know for sure that the Mstar system does not need to boot up even when the Montero has sat for days or weeks without use.
In regard to the Hotaudio WiFi Antenna, yes, mine was in the exact same spot originally. However, mine did not come with an adhesive copper antenna tab at the end of the antenna lead on the side of the case. It was just soldered to the inside sidewall of case. Your unit may perform better with the copper tab, although, I think there will still be more interference due to the antenna lead being inside the case. On mine, the difference between the factory mounting location and the lead being routed out the back (through the rear mounting bracket hole and then attached to center upper rear housing screw) has been a massive improvement in both signal strength and throughput. If I was not pressed for time during the antenna fix, I would have taken pictures as well as mounted a RP-SMA Antenna on the back housing like the one in the link below.
2.4G 2.5dBI Wireless RP-SMA Antenna with Extension Cord Cheap hot sale
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171505160014?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Further, I did ask Hotaudio for help with the ridiculously weak wifi signal and directly related low throughput issue, but they only suggested using a USB WiFi adapter instead of the internal WiFi radio. D'oh! And even then, there was no information on which adapter would work, or how to set it up, where to get the drivers, or where to get it. In turn, I pulled the HU, relocated the antenna lead, and tried to explain to them the poor factory antenna location problem. This was more than a month ago, so hopefully they are doing a better job on new units. Please note, my Winmark HU has the WiFi antenna routed out the back and it works great. Also, the forthcoming Joying HU routes the antenna out the back too, so hopefully it will work great as well. Anyway, if you're bench testing your HU prior to install, you can at least test the signal strength and throughput and compare it to your phone etc., and then decide if you need to reroute or not. Although, if you like to connect to home or work WiFi networks, I'd recommend relocating and upgrading the antenna.
Yikes... my apologies for type rambling...
Best to all,
R

rhacy said:
My opinion of this HA HU is that it's cheaply made and far from perfect. For example, I had to relocate the WiFi antenna out the back, as the factory location inside of the unit was poorly designed to save a few cents per unit. To clarify, moving the antenna lead out the back of the unit increased throughput up and down by 10x + on my unit. Moreover, my HA HU also has an input switching issue with my vehicle's factory amp that creates a single loud popping sound through the speakers when switching from music to radio inputs or when turning the vehicle off. That said, this issue was not present at all with a prior Winmark Android HU in the same vehicle. I even installed a RCA ground loop isolator - noise filter and made sure the ground was to chassis, but the input switching loud single popping sound is still a problem with this HU. I'm guessing it's an issue with how crudely this HU the switches power, which is unlike the soft power switch and volume ramp up of my last Android HU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you ever solve the popping sound before you switched to the Joying? This is my second HotAudio unit, my first one had a power issue. They sent me a new one at no cost, but this has the speaker popping as you described. My first one did not have this issue. And no word from Summer yet. I really don't want to go through the hassle of shipping this one back and waiting another 2 weeks for a new one. Frustrating.

vdubskey said:
Did you ever solve the popping sound before you switched to the Joying? This is my second HotAudio unit, my first one had a power issue. They sent me a new one at no cost, but this has the speaker popping as you described. My first one did not have this issue. And no word from Summer yet. I really don't want to go through the hassle of shipping this one back and waiting another 2 weeks for a new one. Frustrating.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi vdubskey,
No... I haven't solved the Hotaudio single loud popping sound when switching audio inputs or turning off yet. On an encouraging note, Summer sent me a link to new ROM and MCU images yesterday should fix the single loud audio popping sound. I'm guessing the fix is in updated MCU audio switching assembly code, but I've already installed the Joying HU and it's been working great for the most part. To clarify, out of the box the Joying HU has zero audio pop issues, decent WiFi throughput, and is obviously faster due to the quad core. The only issue with it so far is low mic volume and some background buzzing noise for the person on the receiving end of my Bluetooth paired phone calls. D'oh! There always seems to be some issue with these head units.
Anyway, if Summer has not sent you the download link to the New4_rk3066_h(20150831) ROM & MCU images yet, you can pm me for the link. Please note that I'm going to email Summer and will post the link and password here if she gives me permission to do so.
Best to all,
R

I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds

butthead123 said:
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this same HU and it has been nothing short of perfect for me. Try and update the MCU to the new (20150831) HA file and then put in Malaysk's ROM. The popping sound should be MCU related not ROM so you shouldn't have any problems.
I personally haven't updated my MCU yet so I still have that popping sounds, only the ROM to Malaysk's Aug24-2015 and it's running flawless. I bearly notice the pop anyways.

butthead123 said:
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great news. She just sent me a link with a firmware date of 09/09/2015 so hopefully it fixes it. Yea I appreciate all the work Malaysk has done but all of the UI changes done are not to my taste. The stock firmware looks much better IMO. I just extract the stock firmware images and rebuild with the modded apps I use and use then flash and apply *#hct#root# to root and install xposed and get the same experience with the same look as stock. Works for me [emoji6]
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Summer at Hotaudio has given me permission to post the links below that should fix the single loud audio pop when switching inputs or when turning off.
Please note that these ROM Firmware images should be for 1024x600 Hotaudio Dual Core RK3066 & Quad Core RK3188 Head Units, but I haven't testing them yet, so use at your own risk.
Hotaudio Rockchip RK3066 8-31-15 ROM Firmware & MCU Images:
http://yunpan.cn/cm4nU7wHDzcuA password:2782
Hotaudio Rockchip RK3188 9-8-15 ROM Firmware & MCU Images:
http://yunpan.cn/cmtZjSvdtbqqv password:6389
Thanks in advance for any feedback.
R

Yup that's the firmware I downloaded, the 9/8/15 one. I upgraded to a quadcore SOM for this radio. I'll try the MCU image first and see if it solves my problem and then the UPDATE image if I need to. Should get these posted to the HuiFei file server as well. At least the MCU files anyways.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

vdubskey said:
Yup that's the firmware I downloaded, the 9/8/15 one. I upgraded to a quadcore SOM for this radio. I'll try the MCU image first and see if it solves my problem and then the UPDATE image if I need to. Should get these posted to the HuiFei file server as well. At least the MCU files anyways.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! Please let us know if the single loud audio pop goes away or not. Also, once you flash the MCU, could you post the MCU version number for the new RK3188 MCU from your Settings - about section?
Moreover, once I know the both the new HA RK3066 and RK3188 MCU version numbers, I'll see if I or someone can post them to the HuiFei and mega.nz file servers - ( https://mega.nz/#F!KMZnXTJC!zDFMlP4qgxEE6vQxt8rrrw ), or if you do, please let us know.
Thanks again.
R

The MCU that was included in the 3188 download is v2.73. And that is what my system already had prior. I am still getting the pop randomly when switching music and radio apps. Although I haven't got the pop on boot or shutdown yet except a very tiny one that might have been related to something else. I'll have to do some more testing.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Hey guys, I am a total noob when it comes to dealing with these android head units. I am wondering if anyone can tell me if there is any way to have music (I.e. Mp3, radio, or other sources) to play continually, or at least while I am in the Nav app. Riding in silence just to use the Nav is not cool....

vdubskey said:
The MCU that was included in the 3188 download is v2.73. And that is what my system already had prior. I am still getting the pop randomly when switching music and radio apps. Although I haven't got the pop on boot or shutdown yet except a very tiny one that might have been related to something else. I'll have to do some more testing.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yikes! I updated to MCU 2.73 on my HA rk3066 about month ago and still had the single loud audio pop when switching inputs or turning off. Regardless, thanks for posting the MCU version. It's probably a waste of time, but I'll bench flash the MCU included with latest rk3066 ROM from Summer to see if it's newer than 2.73.
Bigjoe1025 said:
Hey guys, I am a total noob when it comes to dealing with these android head units. I am wondering if anyone can tell me if there is any way to have music (I.e. Mp3, radio, or other sources) to play continually, or at least while I am in the Nav app. Riding in silence just to use the Nav is not cool....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try going into Settings > GPS and selecting Mixing. There, you can also adjust the volume settings between your music and gps voice directions. Please note that this GPS volume setting may not work if you're using a GPS app with text to speech street names.
Hope this helps...
Best to all,
R

butthead123 said:
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey can you post the version number of the MCU that took the pop away. Also the firmware date? Is your unit a dual core or quadcore. Thanks.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Update: I went ahead and flashed the update.img after the MCU.img had no effect and it has resolved the speaker popping. So it turns out the even tho the MCU probably does handle the input switching, it must have been how the OS handled the execution. No facts to back that up but just my opinion. Now I have to mod this version all over again and setup my apps but oh well.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

vdubskey said:
Update: I went ahead and flashed the update.img after the MCU.img had no effect and it has resolved the speaker popping. So it turns out the even tho the MCU probably does handle the input switching, it must have been how the OS handled the execution. No facts to back that up but just my opinion. Now I have to mod this version all over again and setup my apps but oh well.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for posting that the latest Update Image from Summer at Hotaudio fixes the audio pop. I did bench load the included MCU for the HA rk3066. Unfortunately, it was version 2.60, so I knew it would not help. Thanks again for verifying the fix is the new firmware.
Cheers,
R

Another update: So the newest firmware fixes the pop when switching from radio to music and vice versa perfectly. Haven't had a pop yet. But I'm still getting a random pop here and there on ignition off. So I think I'm going to going to wire my DCDC-USB power supply in-between the unit and the battery so I can use the power off delay function to make sure my amp is powered off before the unit so I don't get the pop. Hopefully it works out.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Does anyone know how to get into recovery mode? This model doesn't have physical buttons but it still has the reset button. I tried going from maylask's to the original img. After flashing, it never booted successfully and now I'm stuck on the android logo screen. Any pointers ?

GA5151F Manuals?

I recently installed the GA5151F in my 2007 mazdaspeed. I do did not get any manuals for it. They gave me a link for a website manual but that unit was not listed. Does anyone have those? I contacted Eonon too and if I get them I will post them here.
I am also wondering if I can use the Malaysk rom with this unit and if so is there a guide to doing it? I have been searching and reading but not quite sure exactly what I need. The info for this seems to be all over the place or else I am just not seeing it. I have rooted and flashed android devices before. Thank you for all and any help.

I have the same unit in my Mazda3 with no manuals. Didn't really ever need it though since there was an installation video. What exactly are you looking for with the manual?

destructo322 said:
I have the same unit in my Mazda3 with no manuals. Didn't really ever need it though since there was an installation video. What exactly are you looking for with the manual?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wasn't looking for anything specific, just wanted to look it over to see if I was missing anything important. Did you modify yours with a different rom or anything?

JohnnyTightlips said:
I wasn't looking for anything specific, just wanted to look it over to see if I was missing anything important. Did you modify yours with a different rom or anything?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not yet. I've actually been looking over a lot of sources to see what changes I can make. Malaysk ROM looks like it should be good as long as you use the ones for RK3188 / 800 x 480 resolution. That can be found here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=3246370. Information and instructions on where I found that it works is here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/android-auto/android-head-units/eonon-ga5153f-mcu-t3217479/page2
It looks like changing the rom is fine as long as you don't make any changes to the MCU because i don't find any support for MTCB-ZD.
You can also find other useful apps and information at the following link that are applicable to most android units:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/wiki/Hui_Fei_Type#MTCB_Android_Automotive_Head_Units
Let me know if you make any changes to your system as I won't have access to mine for another two weeks.

destructo322 said:
Not yet. I've actually been looking over a lot of sources to see what changes I can make. Malaysk ROM looks like it should be good as long as you use the ones for RK3188 / 800 x 480 resolution. That can be found here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=3246370. Information and instructions on where I found that it works is here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/android-auto/android-head-units/eonon-ga5153f-mcu-t3217479/page2
It looks like changing the rom is fine as long as you don't make any changes to the MCU because i don't find any support for MTCB-ZD.
You can also find other useful apps and information at the following link that are applicable to most android units:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/wiki/Hui_Fei_Type#MTCB_Android_Automotive_Head_Units
Let me know if you make any changes to your system as I won't have access to mine for another two weeks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot for the info, I may just mess with it this weekend. I will keep you posted.

HU Updated
I got a little bored last night and decided to go through with this.
I put the update_4_4_4_FUSE_800X480_RK3188_16_MAL_22_05_2016_AUDIO on my head unit and it worked.
I put update.img on the root of a usb stick and put it in the port labeled usb.
I turned on the unit and went into the Settings menu, move to very bottom of the menu, select “About tablet”
Select “System Updates”

Select “Wipe data from the flash” option and click “Install”
I then let it fully install and it sat at the mazda logo forever. I finally read more of the instructions and saw it will always do that.
I shut the car off.
I then turned the car back on holding the power button and I pushed the reset button, not sure which one did it but then it showed it was erasing
After that it booted up and everything worked well.
My only issue is that the Android Head Unit app service thing does not control google music, which is the only music app I really want to use.
Any ideas?
Also is there a guide for this rom and all the cool features it has?
I also don't understand how I stop the radio when I switch to another app like google music? It keeps playing unless I hit the mode button and switch to music.
Another problem I would like to address is when my phone connects over bluetooth for it to auto turn on wifi tether, I think tasker can do this but I wasn't sure if there was another app. I do really like this head unit but I have a lot of tweaking to do before I get it where I would like it.

JohnnyTightlips said:
I got a little bored last night and decided to go through with this.
I put the update_4_4_4_FUSE_800X480_RK3188_16_MAL_22_05_2016_AUDIO on my head unit and it worked.
I put update.img on the root of a usb stick and put it in the port labeled usb.
I turned on the unit and went into the Settings menu, move to very bottom of the menu, select “About tablet”
Select “System Updates”

Select “Wipe data from the flash” option and click “Install”
I then let it fully install and it sat at the mazda logo forever. I finally read more of the instructions and saw it will always do that.
I shut the car off.
I then turned the car back on holding the power button and I pushed the reset button, not sure which one did it but then it showed it was erasing
After that it booted up and everything worked well.
My only issue is that the Android Head Unit app service thing does not control google music, which is the only music app I really want to use.
Any ideas?
Also is there a guide for this rom and all the cool features it has?
I also don't understand how I stop the radio when I switch to another app like google music? It keeps playing unless I hit the mode button and switch to music.
Another problem I would like to address is when my phone connects over bluetooth for it to auto turn on wifi tether, I think tasker can do this but I wasn't sure if there was another app. I do really like this head unit but I have a lot of tweaking to do before I get it where I would like it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info. Should be useful when I get to it so I don't freak out from the logo.
For Google Play Music: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=63877529 . I think this app just had a checkbutton for me to use spotify, but it should support google play although I'm not sure if you need to do anything extra.
Malaysk guide: I am not aware of any, but it seems to be used across a lot of head units so there is probably some videos on YouTube.
Radio issue: I think it may be a bug in Eonon's MCU which is only updated by Eonon and you probably have to specifically ask them for any updates. I may do that at some point because it annoys me also. I usually was just exiting out using the back button before I found that mode fixes it temporarily just recently. You might be able to just use Tasker to kill the radio app whenever Google Play Music is opened.
Auto-tether: I used tasker to do this whenever it connects to EONON on bluetooth and would automatically end the tether when disconnected. Other apps may work such as https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=eu.inrete.autotethering&hl=en
As for me, I used to have my unit set up where tasker on the phone would turn on hotspot and use spotify through the head unit. Now, I just have my HU start up at bluetooth and tasker on my phone opens a specific spotify playlist whenever it detects i am connected to Eonon. I mainly do this just because I download songs on spotify and podcasts to my phone whenever I'm on wifi to save data. I'm thinking about mirroring my phone using EasyConnected and seeing how that works out on the HU.

JohnnyTightlips said:
I recently installed the GA5151F in my 2007 mazdaspeed. I do did not get any manuals for it. They gave me a link for a website manual but that unit was not listed. Does anyone have those? I contacted Eonon too and if I get them I will post them here.
I am also wondering if I can use the Malaysk rom with this unit and if so is there a guide to doing it? I have been searching and reading but not quite sure exactly what I need. The info for this seems to be all over the place or else I am just not seeing it. I have rooted and flashed android devices before. Thank you for all and any help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is it an MTCB head unit ? Can you post a pic of your settings/about device screen ?

typos1 said:
Is it an MTCB head unit ? Can you post a pic of your settings/about device screen ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will post pics soon, life is crazy busy atm.

http://imgur.com/a/hoWtd
Is this what you are looking for?

JohnnyTightlips said:
http://imgur.com/a/hoWtd
Is this what you are looking for?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, the last pic was.
You have an MTCB units made by ZD.
There are some manuals around, come KLD ROMs have them on the unit, you dont really need one, but if you must one have I could get a copy for you, its not very detailed and its the same for all units from all manufacturers apart from minor details like the launcher.

typos1 said:
Yeah, the last pic was.
You have an MTCB units made by ZD.
There are some manuals around, come KLD ROMs have them on the unit, you dont really need one, but if you must one have I could get a copy for you, its not very detailed and its the same for all units from all manufacturers apart from minor details like the launcher.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Eonon just sent me this.
Wish you a good day.
Sorry for inconvenience caused.
Here is online user manual for your reference:
http://i.sbo2.com/page/GASeriesAndroid4.4Manual(eonon)_EN.html
Here is an installation video for your reference:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZIsormC28A
Any further questions pls feel free to contact me.
Have a nice day.

typos1 said:
Yeah, the last pic was.
You have an MTCB units made by ZD.
There are some manuals around, come KLD ROMs have them on the unit, you dont really need one, but if you must one have I could get a copy for you, its not very detailed and its the same for all units from all manufacturers apart from minor details like the launcher.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does that microphone mod still apply to these units? I have not had a chance to test the external mic but it is all hooked up. Another thing I was wondering is if you still need to do the audio mod to get better sound quality on these units as well. I won't be taking it apart any time soon but when I upgrade to an amp and better speakers I might if that is still needed. I also can not figure out how to get the screensaver mph to display anything and the clock is wrong. Thanks for the help.

JohnnyTightlips said:
Does that microphone mod still apply to these units? I have not had a chance to test the external mic but it is all hooked up. Another thing I was wondering is if you still need to do the audio mod to get better sound quality on these units as well. I won't be taking it apart any time soon but when I upgrade to an amp and better speakers I might if that is still needed. I also can not figure out how to get the screensaver mph to display anything and the clock is wrong. Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The ZD units are relatively rare, I think youd have to take yours apart to see about the mic set up, but its probably roughly the same as the other units, which are all slightly different but they all need modding, best check out the mic mod thread to see if anyone has done it to a ZD unit.
Pretty certain it will have he audio controller hooked up to the MCU rather than Android so you would need to do 7floor's audio mod, assuming of course that youre not happy with the sound as it is, there is a slight sound quality improvement with the Lollipop update so you may wanna try that.
What screensaver is that, one from on here or did it come on the unit ?
---------- Post added at 01:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:15 AM ----------
destructo322 said:
It looks like changing the rom is fine as long as you don't make any changes to the MCU because i don't find any support for MTCB-ZD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its not that the MCU is not suported, its that the ZD units have only started appearing recently so they are no MCU updates yet, plus you cant get a copy of the MCU off the unit, in time ZD MCU updates will no doubt turn up.
destructo322 said:
Radio issue: I think it may be a bug in Eonon's MCU which is only updated by Eonon and you probably have to specifically ask them for any updates. I may do that at some point because it annoys me also. I usually was just exiting out using the back button before I found that mode fixes it temporarily just recently. You might be able to just use Tasker to kill the radio app whenever Google Play Music is opened.
Auto-tether: I used tasker to do this whenever it connects to EONON on bluetooth and would automatically end the tether when disconnected. Other apps may work such as https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=eu.inrete.autotethering&hl=en
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These units need an app to control switching between music apps other than the MTC ones that they come with, otherwise your ll get 2 sources playing at once, this is what @JohnnyTightlips was referring to.
Eonon are sellers ONLY, all they do is buy these from ZD, stick badges on and sell them, they do not make the MCU or have anything to do with it, its a ZD MCU ie, like all the other MTCB units, its an STMicroElectronics MCU with software developed by MTC for ZD. Its not an Eonon MCU, the radio issue he was talking about is the one I referred to above.
Forget about Eonon (apart from as a possible source of updates) and about "GA5151F" (it means nothing), you both have ZD MTCB head units - a good example is if you bought a BMW from a dealers called Smith & Son, you dont have a car called a Smiths & Son, you have a BMW.

My next and previous track steering wheel controls don't seem to work in Google play music. I see the next and previous toast come up on the screen when I press them but nothing happens in the app. volume and mute work great. I'm not sure if maybe there is a setting I'm missing. I also don't know what the control settings app does. And in the viper audio tool what settings do I adjust for Android music apps? Also what is the biggest fat32 SD card I can have in each slot 128gb? Thanks for the help.

JohnnyTightlips said:
Does that microphone mod still apply to these units? I have not had a chance to test the external mic but it is all hooked up. Another thing I was wondering is if you still need to do the audio mod to get better sound quality on these units as well. I won't be taking it apart any time soon but when I upgrade to an amp and better speakers I might if that is still needed. I also can not figure out how to get the screensaver mph to display anything and the clock is wrong. Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Isn't the mic mod just for units that only have internal mics? The HU already has the option for an external microphone so I don't see much reason needed to solder in an external mic. Nobody that's called me has complained of the internal mic so I haven't even connected an external yet, but I might next time I take it out because it's too annoying to put back in.

I have the external mic hooked up and did a test the other day. I was driving at 80mph and the person on the other line said I sounded great and it sounded like I was using the phone itself. My external is mounted to the top/side of the steering column.

JohnnyTightlips said:
My next and previous track steering wheel controls don't seem to work in Google play music. I see the next and previous toast come up on the screen when I press them but nothing happens in the app. volume and mute work great. I'm not sure if maybe there is a setting I'm missing. I also don't know what the control settings app does. And in the viper audio tool what settings do I adjust for Android music apps? Also what is the biggest fat32 SD card I can have in each slot 128gb? Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Control settings is for CAN Bus data, different apps will appear depending on what setting you have your unit set on in factory settings.
destructo322 said:
Isn't the mic mod just for units that only have internal mics? The HU already has the option for an external microphone so I don't see much reason needed to solder in an external mic. Nobody that's called me has complained of the internal mic so I haven't even connected an external yet, but I might next time I take it out because it's too annoying to put back in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All units have built in mics, most people find it useless for calls but some find it ok for google now.
JohnnyTightlips said:
I have the external mic hooked up and did a test the other day. I was driving at 80mph and the person on the other line said I sounded great and it sounded like I was using the phone itself. My external is mounted to the top/side of the steering column.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most, but not all, people find they need to do the mic mod.

Does that canbus app let you do anything? I opened it and it have a bunch of buttons but nothing seemed to do anything. Is that where I am supposed to set what the steering controls do?

JohnnyTightlips said:
Does that canbus app let you do anything? I opened it and it have a bunch of buttons but nothing seemed to do anything. Is that where I am supposed to set what the steering controls do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, its not for SWC, only for CAN Bus, not all cars are supported.

Xtrons PB7890BP - BMW E90

Hello,
Not sure how common this unit is, but I'm just trying to gain some details about it. I bought it at the weekend, it arrived yesterday and I am keen to work out what is going on. Hopefully some of you experts can help.
1. The instruction manual states that I must connect the long yellow wire to the battery, which will preserve the memory for the clock and radio settings. However, I've seen this on XDA for a similar Eonon:
Settings
scroll down to factory settings
password:126
default power status; memory of last status
apply
exit
yes to reboot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which essentially means all radio settings are written directly to the NAND. Why wouldn't this be enabled by default as surely it would remove all requirement for that power cable from the battery, unless that power cable is simply powering the clock? I'm wondering if using GPS time might be better for me, rather than spending an age finding a place for this cable to go. Thoughts? I will continue experimenting tonight.
2. So far, the unit has absolutely no problem connecting to my home Wi-Fi but simply won't connect to my S7 Edge Wi-Fi hotspot. Are there any tips to make this work? Perhaps it's something to do with 5GHz or something? I just need it to work with my phone otherwise it's kinda useless
3. This is probably specific to BMW E90 owners, where are you guys hiding your GPS antenna? Nobody really wants it on the dash do they as it looks nasty. I've been reading about places to hide it but some are ridiculous, like running new lines via the roof lining. Surely there's somewhere within the dash that has limited visibility of the sky, but just enough?
4. Steering controls work out of the box, but I am unable to actually set manual ones? Is there any trick to this?
Thanks in advance.

Looks like I'm going to be the crash test dummy for this unit then. So I'll give my thoughts so far:
Audio Quality - Good. Very good actually considering it's a cheap aftermarket jobby. I've not had one that wasn't a Kenwood or Pioneer sound this good. My Erisin was okay, but nothing on this. The Amplifier app (which is a really a glorified Equalizer) allows a fair amount of twiddling, and I used the optimum settings that I was given by a BMW expert and my word, it blows the OEM radio out the water. Great start.
Screen Quality - It is what it is. Its clearly not high def but then they don't claim to be. It's clear enough though and when navigating earlier I had no problem.
Touch Screen - Jury is still out. I've had a few occasions where taps wouldn't register, but you can never tell if its the CPU lagging or not. Other than that, it seems fine.
Wi-Fi - I was sceptical of how this would perform, as it's one of the biggest complaints on these forums. No problems so far though. Connected perfectly to my phone hotspot and I listened with pleasure to Spotify for a good half an hour.
Installation - Easy enough. There is a surprising amount of wiring though so you need to get a bit inventive to get it fully recessed into the dash.
Does it need the yellow wire to the battery or fuse box? Well, I'm not sure. I found the setting I spoke about above, and so far it does appear to be preserving settings correctly. The only thing that is lost is the clock so far, but the clock is automatically picked up from GPS, so it's possibly a none issue.
Bluetooth A2DP - Jury's out. I tried it with YouTube on my phone and felt it sounded a bit thin, but then music on YouTube always sounds a bit dull and lifeless I find. I really need to use Spotify, but then Spotify works well on the unit, so there's no point.............
Bluetooth Calls - Only made one. Positive feedback though. The person on the other end said it was clear and that's always good. My end, well it wasn't as good as my previous Kenwood, but it was clear enough.
Reversing Sensor Integration - Game changer. It's brilliant. I don't have the camera, and I really can't be arsed to fit one. It's a shame I can't disable the stupid triangle that appears informing you that no camera is present, because the unit displays a car with coloured sensors on the back and that's top draw. Very impressed.
I skipped out on the tyre pressure monitoring, but I've got the DAB antenna and hopefully a piece of kit that will make DAB work with my OEM aerial, coming all the way from Germany.
I now need to resolve a few issues with installation. I wanted to route the USB cables and what not to the glovebox, but how the hell I'm supposed to do that I am not sure. I will get onto a BM forum and find out. I will post some photos up when I'm finished. Also, you do have to file a bit of the climate control part, so it fits smooth. Currently, I've wedged it in without the surround but it looks a bit cruddy, so I will do that probably at the weekend.
Current unit issues I am trying to resolve:
- Cannot get the steering wheel app to work at all. The steering buttons work, perfectly fine, but the actual app itself does nothing, so I cannot configure the voice setting for example, to open OK Google.
- FM Radio is dreadful. It was never good to begin with, but it's horrific now.
- Making the previous audio source come back after a cold boot.

ok, so almost had my first snafu tonight. CANBUS integration was 90% broken. no reversing sensor functionality, other than the original beeps, and steering controls not working. I was all but ready to send a snotty e-mail to Xtrons, when I tried booting up the hardware, turning on the ignition, disconnecting the CANBUS box, and then reconnecting it. I think perhaps the car has a fail safe if it thinks something is not right with the CANBUS and just disables it. Disconnecting the CANBUS caused the unit to switch off, I then reconnected it and the unit instantly returned and importantly the clocks sync'd up.
I've noticed if the CANBUS isn't working, temperature and clocks are lost. Hopefully this won't be a recurring theme. I was messing about in factory settings earlier, so I don't want to throw any blame at Xtrons just yet.

OK, so it seems CANBUS Integration is broken when you switch the car off and then return to it after a few seconds/minutes. I am guessing this is because the unit immediately goes into sleep mode when you shutdown the car and the car doesn't like this. I can't be sure until I return to the car in a few hours as not all the subsystems power down immediately. I am going to experiment with setting the unit to power down after 10 minutes. I suppose it's about finding a happy balance. You don't want to drain your battery excessively, but you need to be able to pop into the shops without losing almost 100% of the canbus functionality.
The games continue. I will do some more research.

Right, another update. Returned to the car after an hour. Canbus working fine. Switched it off and on repeatedly and for some reason I couldn't break it. Was solid as a rock. God knows why it failed this morning then. Perhaps it's the unit rather than the car then I will keep an eye and nagg Xtrons if it's problematic going forward.
I've set the ACC delay to 10 minutes but it doesn't seem to make a difference. It still powers off :| I don't think it does it any favours it powering off though.

Another update. So, if you leave your car for a few minutes, the canbus goes dead and is nonoperational until the next time you leave it for a while . I've not timed it specifically, but it's definitely happening. Wonder if it's the car or the radio causing these problems?

I will eventually merge this all into a single reply which can form the basis of the thread for this device. I'm guessing the price is somewhat blocking it's widespread popularity. I must admit, it's not easy throwing 300+ quid at a Chinese head unit.
Anyway, another update on this Canbus issue. I think the problem is both the car and the head unit. The head unit is 'half' going into Deep Sleep when I switch the car off. It's not fully entering deep sleep. Hence when I get back in the car within a few minutes, the device is still 'powering down'. It then immediately wakes up and usually, canbus functionality is lost. I wonder if there's a command that's not being sent or something and the canbus then falls into a bad state. Once in this state, it's nearly impossible to get out of it. You just have to wait until the car is fully powered down (about 30-60 mins).
The only thing this could be, other than a software bug, is because I've not wired that yellow wire in. Now the guys at Xtrons said it's just for the memory and clock, but I've proven that you don't need that wire to store the memory and the clock can be updated via GPS. So, could it be that the yellow wire also acts as a secondary 'accessory' line? God knows. Before I start tearing my car apart to run wires or trying to access the fuse box to tap them, I will run it through the cabin and to the battery which sits in the boot. Sounds lethal and very dirty, but this to me is the simplest way of finding out what the crack is.

Bingo. I've potentially found the fix/hack for CANBUS bugs and it might not require the yellow wire to be connected. I think the issues are probably caused by not connecting up that wire, but doing so is a bit of a pain. I'll need to route it to the fusebox or battery etc. blah blah. I'll maybe try for academic reasons at the weekend.
It definitely is the unit rather than the car I think. It appears to trigger some kind of 'bad state' when you switch off the ignition. What I have observed is that the unit never quite reaches deep sleep, you then enter the car a few minutes later and the unit is essentially half powered down, at which point it continues into deep sleep then immediately 'unsleeps'. At this point, all canbus integration has been lost, SWC, PDC, all dead. I think perhaps because it's continuing to enter deep sleep when you re-trigger the ignition, it is effectively powering down the canbus subsystem. This is then dead for the next hour unless the unit will power it back on, which is surprisingly awkward.
So...... the fix/hack, at least, so far, is to set Shutdown Delay when ACC OFF to 30 seconds, rather than Auto Sleep. The auto sleep mode never fully powers down the unit and that is the whole point I guess. If you set it to 30 seconds, the unit continues to power down after you've left the vehicle and perhaps it continues the correct shutdown of the canbus system. When you re-enter and trigger the ignition, it then powers it up again properly, or so it would seem anyway. One thing I will say, in auto sleep, if you don't fully engage the ignition, this also caused issues. With it powered down, I think the unit will not come back on until ignition is at least in accessory mode, so hopefully that problem is also gone.
The ONLY negative of this fix, is the fact that the unit boots from cold every time you start the car. Booting takes, I don't know 20-30 seconds ish? Not ideal, I'll admit, but it's definitely better than losing all CANBUS integration and not being able to operate steering controls and having your parking sensors work correctly. They're important after all.
I will test, as I say, for academic reasons at the weekend and if it does work, maybe the ends justify the means, but only if I can get the wire into the bloody fusebox

Skeeza,
Thanks for posting and tracking all of your work. I have the PE9890BPL (9in screen, no cd/dvd) and have been encountering some of the same issues as you. I do believe there are issues with the CANBUS integration as I have multiple issues associated with this harness. More than 75% (installed 2 days ago so 3/4 trips) of the time I have no steering wheel controls and the unit does not link (time and temp) to the center console. I do have the yellow wire connected in my fuse box but I just discovered that the fuse I tapped into may not be always on. I found a fuse that is reportedly always on listed on XDA so I swapped it and I will report if that does/does not correct my issue.
My time also does not display correctly. I do not have it connected to 4G/LTE and I would prefer not to if I do not have to, but I will. I manually set the time and it still loses it. The radio presets have also disappeared once. Perhaps swapping the yellow wire will correct this as well.
Finally I agree that music via bluetooth is "thin." Volume is very different than the FM radio and there is no base.

FYI I just received an email back from Xtrons about my intermittent CANBUS. They didn't ask any questions about installation or suggest any firmware changes, just said they would send me a new one.

jerkeife said:
Skeeza,
Thanks for posting and tracking all of your work. I have the PE9890BPL (9in screen, no cd/dvd) and have been encountering some of the same issues as you. I do believe there are issues with the CANBUS integration as I have multiple issues associated with this harness. More than 75% (installed 2 days ago so 3/4 trips) of the time I have no steering wheel controls and the unit does not link (time and temp) to the center console. I do have the yellow wire connected in my fuse box but I just discovered that the fuse I tapped into may not be always on. I found a fuse that is reportedly always on listed on XDA so I swapped it and I will report if that does/does not correct my issue.
My time also does not display correctly. I do not have it connected to 4G/LTE and I would prefer not to if I do not have to, but I will. I manually set the time and it still loses it. The radio presets have also disappeared once. Perhaps swapping the yellow wire will correct this as well.
Finally I agree that music via bluetooth is "thin." Volume is very different than the FM radio and there is no base.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Finally, nice to have a friend on this forum with the same unit I was starting to think I was the only person who had ordered it. Essentially we have the same unit, mine has the smaller screen + drive, yours has the bigger screen and no drive, like you said. Internally, they're essentially identical. Interesting you mention about the yellow wire perhaps not being connected. I think this is what we both need to resolve, and how important it is.
Let me know how you get on. I plan on running it through the cabin direct to the battery today as an experiment, but this isn't anything long term, merely an experiment. Realistically, I'll need to do this properly or not at all. I notice all of the same problems as you though. Temperature invisible, clock wrong, steering wheel controls, broken park distance controls too (you've maybe not spotted that). I installed mine Monday, so I'm equally a novice. Which fuse are you planning on using? I've been on the BMW forum, and it seems that finding one that is constantly live is a bit of a minefield. I figured the most obvious one is central locking, or maybe ECU ? Central locking would be preferred. It's a non critical system after all.
http://fusesdiagram.com/bmw/fuse-box-diagram-bmw-3-e90.html
Potentially this shines some light on it. Is yours an E90? Mines an 2007 E90. Fuse 56 and 57 are central locking, 15amps. I will check if they correspond to that tonight and if so, they will be the ones I use for my tap.
Good to hear I'm not the only one with the CANBUS issue. I am hoping we both resolve it by connecting up that yellow wire. Like I said, only one way to find out I did have a micro fuse tap somewhere for my previous motor, but I can't find it now, so I'll order another.
The immediate hack/fix for CANBUS is to set Shutdown Delay when ACC OFF to 30 seconds, rather than Auto Sleep. Trust me, it'll work 100% of the time after, but it will also boot from cold after. I think that's the problem. It's not shutting down correctly, quite possibly because of that yellow wire.
What do you think so far? I'm pretty impressed with everything else. Did you have to file down the climate control to fit it in?

skezza said:
Finally, nice to have a friend on this forum with the same unit I was starting to think I was the only person who had ordered it. Essentially we have the same unit, mine has the smaller screen + drive, yours has the bigger screen and no drive, like you said. Internally, they're essentially identical. Interesting you mention about the yellow wire perhaps not being connected. I think this is what we both need to resolve, and how important it is.
Let me know how you get on. I plan on running it through the cabin direct to the battery today as an experiment, but this isn't anything long term, merely an experiment. Realistically, I'll need to do this properly or not at all. I notice all of the same problems as you though. Temperature invisible, clock wrong, steering wheel controls, broken park distance controls too (you've maybe not spotted that). I installed mine Monday, so I'm equally a novice. Which fuse are you planning on using? I've been on the BMW forum, and it seems that finding one that is constantly live is a bit of a minefield. I figured the most obvious one is central locking, or maybe ECU ? Central locking would be preferred. It's a non critical system after all.
http://fusesdiagram.com/bmw/fuse-box-diagram-bmw-3-e90.html
Potentially this shines some light on it. Is yours an E90? Mines an 2007 E90. Fuse 56 and 57 are central locking, 15amps. I will check if they correspond to that tonight and if so, they will be the ones I use for my tap.
Good to hear I'm not the only one with the CANBUS issue. I am hoping we both resolve it by connecting up that yellow wire. Like I said, only one way to find out I did have a micro fuse tap somewhere for my previous motor, but I can't find it now, so I'll order another.
The immediate hack/fix for CANBUS is to set Shutdown Delay when ACC OFF to 30 seconds, rather than Auto Sleep. Trust me, it'll work 100% of the time after, but it will also boot from cold after. I think that's the problem. It's not shutting down correctly, quite possibly because of that yellow wire.
What do you think so far? I'm pretty impressed with everything else. Did you have to file down the climate control to fit it in?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have an 08 e90. I was initially tapped into fuse 57 as specified on what you posted (56 and 57 are central locking fuses on my car's fuse diagram) but found that the radio would intermittently start up for a few seconds when I would unlock the doors. When I got to work this morning I switched to fuse 47 as shown on what you posted (fuse 2 on my car's diagram) based on a post I found on Bimmerpost but I did not get a chance to test that fuse location. I could go hook up my DMM to it and check after work to see if it is still powered. Both drives I took at lunch today the radio presets and clock have not been stored but my CANBUS seemed to be functioning properly. I think the yellow wire is used for more than just retaining presets and time. Where is the Shutdown Delay? I keep seeing a mention of a Factory Settings menu but I have been unable to find it.
I do like the radio and as long as we can iron out these few issues I will be happy. The previous Xtrons I owned had a horrible bluetooth echo for anyone who was talking to me while I used the radios function. So bad that my wife would not even talk to me unless I disconnected, which made it a show stopper for me and I returned the unit. I did have to file down the climate control to get it installed but the bottom sticking down farther bothers me less than I thought it would.

Shutdown delay is under Extra settings. It'll be set to Auto sleep by default, which essentially prevents the unit from shutting down. Set it to 30 seconds and you'll be laughing, except you'll be a tad annoyed because everytime you start the car, your head unit will reboot, but canbus will work 100% of the time. I believe the auto sleep could be one of the reasons we're having issues. I think the unit isn't powering itself down properly and then perhaps the canbus integration app is crashing? Would need to debug, but really, this is what they should be doing, not us.
Early signs are not positive with the yellow wire. I went out and ran the yellow accessory wire all the way to the battery. No idea if anything has changed functionally on the unit, but after re-enabling auto sleep, I was able to get the canbus to fail again fairly quickly. They've offered me a new canbus box as well, so I might take them up on that. I'm leaving the car for an hour or so now. I've disabled writing presets to memory so I can be sure the permanent live is working. It should be, I've run it direct to the battery, but there's a join in the middle and perhaps I accidentally disconnected it, we'll see..... in an hour Did you lose your FM Presets then? That's the first place I'll go then to be sure.
Frustrating.
How much did you file off? I'm looking at my climate control and I'm working out where to start. There's a plastic clip which goes into the metal bracket included with the unit. I assume we leave that but you file all the obscured plastic that surrounds it?

Bad news, wired in the yellow wire and disabled the writing the memory to NAND storage. Tested it by removing the wire, all presets lost, reconnected it and they were stored. Left for an hour, canbus working fine. 5 minutes? No, the canbus is completely broken..... the issue is definitely related to the headset powering down when you open the door and I think it's triggering the canbus on the car to deactivate. I've recorded the symptoms and will forward it to Xtrons. It's a combination of the two. Once the canbus is powered down, even having the 30 second ACC fix won't bring it back. You must wait for an hour until the car shuts down all the other subsystems. I think the reason it works with the 30 second ACC fix is because it's like a sequence, off, on, off, on etc.
In the meantime, I will request the new canbus box as they've offered. Did they ask you to return yours? They've not said to me yet, better not be back to China though. More frustratingly, this unit doesn't even work without the canbus box..... I don't think anyway.
Ultimately, if this doesn't work, you have to ask yourself what's more important...... the functionality this unit brings (which is plentiful) or the ability to boot it in 1 second. Personally, the functionality outweighs being able to boot in 1 second. It's just a shame we can't figure out what the **** is going wrong with it. Can I live with 20 second boots? Probably to be fair.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etgYOHwAe04
Video of the canbus failing.

I just got this unit and installed today. I also have canbus issues. I am going to try a second canbus unit from my old android head unit I have to see if it helps at all. I think most of this is software though, as my previous android 6.0 unit px5 had none of these issues. Didn't connect the yellow wire and it never lost memory.
Ill keep you updated on my findings as well.

erronr said:
I just got this unit and installed today. I also have canbus issues. I am going to try a second canbus unit from my old android head unit I have to see if it helps at all. I think most of this is software though, as my previous android 6.0 unit px5 had none of these issues. Didn't connect the yellow wire and it never lost memory.
Ill keep you updated on my findings as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe it is software too. I think the car is reacting to something that the unit is doing. Like I said, with it on 30 second shutdown, CANBUS works everytime. I've been sent a return address and will return the canbus box tomorrow. It has to be worth a punt, but I'm pretty sure without it, the unit won't function at all, which isn't ideal, although perhaps if I go into factory settings and disable canbus it will? If not, it becomes a £300 paperweight for a few days, but there we go. Need to at least give it a try, don't I?
I wonder if it's a problem with the MCU, perhaps it's shutting down a critical piece of software? Ultimately, the MCU is what handles canbus right?
Do you experience the symptoms in the video above?

skezza said:
Shutdown delay is under Extra settings. It'll be set to Auto sleep by default, which essentially prevents the unit from shutting down. Set it to 30 seconds and you'll be laughing, except you'll be a tad annoyed because everytime you start the car, your head unit will reboot, but canbus will work 100% of the time. I believe the auto sleep could be one of the reasons we're having issues. I think the unit isn't powering itself down properly and then perhaps the canbus integration app is crashing? Would need to debug, but really, this is what they should be doing, not us.
Early signs are not positive with the yellow wire. I went out and ran the yellow accessory wire all the way to the battery. No idea if anything has changed functionally on the unit, but after re-enabling auto sleep, I was able to get the canbus to fail again fairly quickly. They've offered me a new canbus box as well, so I might take them up on that. I'm leaving the car for an hour or so now. I've disabled writing presets to memory so I can be sure the permanent live is working. It should be, I've run it direct to the battery, but there's a join in the middle and perhaps I accidentally disconnected it, we'll see..... in an hour Did you lose your FM Presets then? That's the first place I'll go then to be sure.
Frustrating.
How much did you file off? I'm looking at my climate control and I'm working out where to start. There's a plastic clip which goes into the metal bracket included with the unit. I assume we leave that but you file all the obscured plastic that surrounds it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try and take a picture of it tonight showing how much of the tabs I filed off. I did not want to completely remove them in case things didn't work out again.
skezza said:
Bad news, wired in the yellow wire and disabled the writing the memory to NAND storage. Tested it by removing the wire, all presets lost, reconnected it and they were stored. Left for an hour, canbus working fine. 5 minutes? No, the canbus is completely broken..... the issue is definitely related to the headset powering down when you open the door and I think it's triggering the canbus on the car to deactivate. I've recorded the symptoms and will forward it to Xtrons. It's a combination of the two. Once the canbus is powered down, even having the 30 second ACC fix won't bring it back. You must wait for an hour until the car shuts down all the other subsystems. I think the reason it works with the 30 second ACC fix is because it's like a sequence, off, on, off, on etc.
In the meantime, I will request the new canbus box as they've offered. Did they ask you to return yours? They've not said to me yet, better not be back to China though. More frustratingly, this unit doesn't even work without the canbus box..... I don't think anyway.
Ultimately, if this doesn't work, you have to ask yourself what's more important...... the functionality this unit brings (which is plentiful) or the ability to boot it in 1 second. Personally, the functionality outweighs being able to boot in 1 second. It's just a shame we can't figure out what the **** is going wrong with it. Can I live with 20 second boots? Probably to be fair.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They sent me an RMA to return my old canbus. I've requested they send me the new one first so I can still use the radio; no response yet. I attempted the off after 30 seconds but it did not work for me. If what you've worked out is correct, whatever is causing my unit to briefly power up and then shut down when I open the door is killing my steering wheel controls. I left the off after 30 seconds on but I need the radio to not turn on when I unlock/open the door for me to test it. Or I supposed I could just sit in the car for a minute. I don't know what I didn't just try that...
Edit: Tried it twice...so far it worked both times.
erronr said:
I just got this unit and installed today. I also have canbus issues. I am going to try a second canbus unit from my old android head unit I have to see if it helps at all. I think most of this is software though, as my previous android 6.0 unit px5 had none of these issues. Didn't connect the yellow wire and it never lost memory.
Ill keep you updated on my findings as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a post here that mentions changing which car is specified for the canbus integration. I found that setting when I finally found the factor settings/car settings. I may try all that say BMW on them (which is 24, 89, and 99) just for ***** and giggles.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...d-units/canbus-decoders-manufacturer-t3670266

jerkeife said:
I'll try and take a picture of it tonight showing how much of the...................
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm happy to file down the tabs, but yeah, like you said, the unit really needs to be working before I start making wholesale irreversible changes. At least a new climate control unit is only £49 off eBay. Could be worse.
They've sent me an RMA too and offered to pay for postage; like you though, I'll end up potentially having no radio while they fiddle and piss around for a few days. I don't think the radio works properly (or even at all) without the canbus box either. If it works partially, I can live without it, but I really don't want to be driving around for a week while they fanny about sourcing a new canbus decoder for me. I'd need to look though which I'll do tonight or early tomorrow morning. I'll update once I know. If it does work, I will get it posted tomorrow so I can get a new one back next week. I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't fix it though.
The other option is I could rip it out completely and put the OEM one in loose or partially re-fit it, but hardly ideal is it? I never had these problems with Erisin Mind you, that had no canbus at all
Did you watch the video I recorded? The fact, your description sounds exactly the same as mine, means I'm pretty sure our problems are the same. Are you a UK customer as well? Be interesting to see how quickly they operate.
The 30 second ACC fix should work, assuming your canbus hasn't bugged out already!! It's really really important to note that. Once you've bugged your CANBUS, it's done. Dead..... and it'll be dead for half an hour to an hour or so regardless of this setting. I'm not uber clued up on the car, but I found an article discussing BMW canbus and aftermarket radios and essentially, there's some kind of lockdown system. If any kind of discrepancy is detected, the canbus circuitry for the radio is shutdown. So with that in mind, I think the car detects the unit powering down, but the unit should be powering up as the door has just been opened. This then puts the car into a fail-safe and canbus into a shutdown mode. You could disconnect the battery for a quick answer, I suppose, but no point. Just wait an hour or so. Then you'll have working canbus everytime you enter the vehicle, assuming you have that 30 second mode activated.
This isn't a fix though is it? This is simply booting the radio from cold everytime you enter the car and that really shouldn't be necessary. It was one of the selling points of this particular piece of equipment.
I will try those settings tonight/tomorrow before sending it back. Has to be worth a try.

skezza said:
I believe it is software too. I think the car is reacting to something that the unit is doing. Like I said, with it on 30 second shutdown, CANBUS works everytime. I've been sent a return address and will return the canbus box tomorrow. It has to be worth a punt, but I'm pretty sure without it, the unit won't function at all, which isn't ideal, although perhaps if I go into factory settings and disable canbus it will? If not, it becomes a £300 paperweight for a few days, but there we go. Need to at least give it a try, don't I?
I wonder if it's a problem with the MCU, perhaps it's shutting down a critical piece of software? Ultimately, the MCU is what handles canbus right?
Do you experience the symptoms in the video above?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have used the unit with the canbus disabled. The radio worked, that is all I tested. I was trying to figure out why my canbus stopped before reading this post.
As of now, I don't have the 30 second thing selected and since swapping my canbus to my old one ive kept canbus working. That being said, I havent done a quick turn off/turn on. I will try that shortly.

Eunavi 2 Din 7'' PX6 4G 64G P11 RK3399

I am thinking of buying new HU becouse my existing Hu from Hizpo PX3 7.1.2 is kinda wired, mostly because none of beetter DVR cams do not work.
So I am thinking of this one
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32934575168.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.78b03c00oKlwsb
anyone have experience with Eunavi HU?

It's similar to the one I have, it has a few problems with my Skoda Octavia.
It boots up every time it powers up taking about 20seconds.
The canbus doesn't work with all the steering wheel buttons.
The default apps are rubbish
The theme is shocking and you can't read the text properly.
Short of the power on issue, it's not too bad.

i see.. original rom I had on hizpo px3 had similar issues, like power up it was even longer.. but with hal9k rom or "malsik" that changed.

I'm still waiting on eunavi sending me the firmware so I can have a look at fixing the problems.

It's not a problem with it booting up each time, trust me.
I have a dash which goes into standby mode and it drains the battery in about 3-5 days of not using the car for a decent drive. I'm forever having to use jumper cables on the battery. I've since installed a switch, although you can use a relay - to make it boot up every time.
I've just bought this unit btw. I'll let you know how it goes in a month. Hopefully it can be modded.

Hi, how is the unit? Have you had any chance to use rca pre outs? I want to buy an android unit but the only thing stopping me is that Subwoofer preout are either of low voltage or doesn't work at all.
The seller claims its a 5v rca pre out for the sub.. Can you confirm this?
---------- Post added at 16:15 ---------- Previous post was at 16:11 ----------
Turbine1991 said:
It's not a problem with it booting up each time, trust me.
I have a dash which goes into standby mode and it drains the battery in about 3-5 days of not using the car for a decent drive. I'm forever having to use jumper cables on the battery. I've since installed a switch, although you can use a relay - to make it boot up every time.
I've just bought this unit btw. I'll let you know how it goes in a month. Hopefully it can be modded.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, how is the unit? Have you had any chance to use rca pre outs? I want to buy an android unit but the only thing stopping me is that Subwoofer preout are either of low voltage or doesn't work at all.
The seller claims its a 5v rca pre out for the sub.. Can you confirm this?

same issue here
So I have the same unit and the same power-problem, takes long to startup every time.
Tried swapping +BATT and ACC but that didn't help the drainage.
Also, mine doesn't hold the radio presets and USB2 doesn't work.
Left a message with Ali-E. to help me with this problem.
My car is a 2011 Dacia Sandero Stepway, which is Renault, basically.
**** solved ******
wire was crossed in the pigtail - radio preset hold, eq.settings hold and lots of other stuff fixed by installing Malays full ROM for PX6/STM32

have autI have autoradio android vw Eunavi I need the secret numbers to open the settings and the habit of adjusting the factory.

Help with Android Head Unit install in 2013 Audi Q5 (p60? Android 10?) (backup camera, mmi controls, air bag light)

Hello, I hope this is the right place, I keep finding this forum every time I search trying to trouble shoot my issues. Long story short, I had been eyeing these head units for my Q5 to add CarPlay, a local installer recommended the same model, and I thought great, so I ordered it and they installed it. I am however having 3 issues, and while the seller has been helpful, they are on a completely different time zone and it’s not progressing well unfortunately. The installer can’t find anything wrong. Little did I know what I was getting into, and I can’t find a manual or even a specific model number to search on.
My Car:
2013 Audi Q5 MMI (3g, gps nav, etc built in, AMI port in glove box, but everything else is in the center console under the screen)
Unit I installed as recommended by installer:
Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS 732910618142 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
My 3 issues:
1) My OEM backup camera does not show video. The radar sensors work. When I put the car into reverse the unit changes to backup mode, but the video image is black. There are multiple backup camera options in the software, I have tried them all. The after market selections at least give me the radar visual and lane lines, but still no video feed. The OEM option only shows me a black screen with a picture of a Q5 on the right.
2) The audio from the head unit is not coming through the car stereo. None of the center console controls work. The right 2 control buttons around the knob are both always flashing slowly. Only Radio works and can be controlled by steering wheel. My phone seems to be synced to car‘s original Bluetooth, and audio takes over when I get a call.
3) My airbag light in the dash is on. I am certain this is because the bezel they sent me only has the hazard light switch.
The unit otherwise is getting better and better as I learn to use it and CarPlay, which I ultimately bought it for, is working well too. My wife and I though are really struggling without the backup camera, and I fear I’ll be ripping the whole thing out and putting the original unit back in if I can’t fix that.
I have pictures of everything inside and out I can share. I’ll add them later as I can. But since this forum keeps coming up in my searches, I thought I would get a conversation started and see if anyone could help me. Really appreciate any assistance in advance. At this point I’ve become versed in taking the car apart and can get behind the entire vertical stack in the center and have confirmed what I can. I’m pretty handy with software as well.
(At the very least to start, a picture of my backup camera options in the software, I’ve tried them all)

jcapxda said:
Hello, I hope this is the right place, I keep finding this forum every time I search trying to trouble shoot my issues. Long story short, I had been eyeing these head units for my Q5 to add CarPlay, a local installer recommended the same model, and I thought great, so I ordered it and they installed it. I am however having 3 issues, and while the seller has been helpful, they are on a completely different time zone and it’s not progressing well unfortunately. The installer can’t find anything wrong. Little did I know what I was getting into, and I can’t find a manual or even a specific model number to search on.
My Car:
2013 Audi Q5 MMI (3g, gps nav, etc built in, AMI port in glove box, but everything else is in the center console under the screen)
Unit I installed as recommended by installer:
Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS 732910618142 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Android 10.0 Head Unit for Audi Q5 2009-2017 Car GPS Navi Stereo Radio 4G BT RDS at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
My 3 issues:
1) My OEM backup camera does not show video. The radar sensors work. When I put the car into reverse the unit changes to backup mode, but the video image is black. There are multiple backup camera options in the software, I have tried them all. The after market selections at least give me the radar visual and lane lines, but still no video feed. The OEM option only shows me a black screen with a picture of a Q5 on the right.
2) The audio from the head unit is not coming through the car stereo. None of the center console controls work. The right 2 control buttons around the knob are both always flashing slowly. Only Radio works and can be controlled by steering wheel. My phone seems to be synced to car‘s original Bluetooth, and audio takes over when I get a call.
3) My airbag light in the dash is on. I am certain this is because the bezel they sent me only has the hazard light switch.
The unit otherwise is getting better and better as I learn to use it and CarPlay, which I ultimately bought it for, is working well too. My wife and I though are really struggling without the backup camera, and I fear I’ll be ripping the whole thing out and putting the original unit back in if I can’t fix that.
I have pictures of everything inside and out I can share. I’ll add them later as I can. But since this forum keeps coming up in my searches, I thought I would get a conversation started and see if anyone could help me. Really appreciate any assistance in advance. At this point I’ve become versed in taking the car apart and can get behind the entire vertical stack in the center and have confirmed what I can. I’m pretty handy with software as well.
(At the very least to start, a picture of my backup camera options in the software, I’ve tried them all)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to say, issue 1 and 3 are quite sure installation issues.
For the first one: Quite clear and could be measured: The backup camera has no power. There should be a connector for the power feed. --> instructions.
Third one: They removed the connector for the airbag, while checking the unit with ignition on. Can be reset at the dealer or by someone who has the right tooling.
Second one: Look into the settings of the unit and check the settings for the CAN box. 2 possibilities here: You got the wrong CAN box or the setting is not set to external amplifier.

@rigattoni thank you
rigattoni said:
Sorry to say, issue 1 and 3 are quite sure installation issues.
For the first one: Quite clear and could be measured: The backup camera has no power. There should be a connector for the power feed. --> instructions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well installation issues, at this point I think I can fix (famous last words). Getting parts / seems to be harder with communication challenges. (was instructions supposed to be a link?)
I pulled things out last night, I didn't find the RCA yellow video in I expected (there are 2 but they both seemed to be for aftermarket and are disconnected. There wasn't the obvious yellow <-> yellow rca adapters I see everyone else have with the power feed to the reverse lights. I'm assuming it's (in theory) feeding in through the primary adapter (block of plugs) going in to the back of the Android unit. I was able to account for all other connectins.
rigattoni said:
Third one: They removed the connector for the airbag, while checking the unit with ignition on. Can be reset at the dealer or by someone who has the right tooling.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They reset it, it keeps coming back on. My original had a light, this bezel doesn't. As I understand there is likely some resisitance that's supposed to be here ...
rigattoni said:
Second one: Look into the settings of the unit and check the settings for the CAN box. 2 possibilities here: You got the wrong CAN box or the setting is not set to external amplifier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I will check settings. There's a "key settings" and offers 4 & 8. It's the only major configuration section I don't understand. But I think I've tried both. Will look again.

jcapxda said:
Well installation issues, at this point I think I can fix (famous last words). Getting parts / seems to be harder with communication challenges. (was instructions supposed to be a link?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No link, the seller should at least provide some installation instruction with the unit.
As I don´t know the unit and don´t know what has been provided with the unit itself, I am not able to help.
Your backup camera should have a video output which needs to get connected with the head unit. Where to put, needs to get from the seller. If he is not able... send this crap back.
The same for the airbag error message... If the seller is not able to give clear instruction... send the crap back.

Seller finally agreed they didn't send me all the right cables. Specifically they mentioned I need an AMI cable, but also the LVDS plug (in the photo above, in the top left) ... should have an adapter. Which I've specifically asked them about a few times in pictures, but as I suspected it, it can't just be unplugged and needs an adapter to plug into the rest. So... those are on their way, we'll see. I suspect the OEM backup cam video comes in via that cable based on my research and wiring diagrams, but again, we'll see.

jcapxda said:
Seller finally agreed they didn't send me all the right cables. Specifically they mentioned I need an AMI cable, but also the LVDS plug (in the photo above, in the top left) ... should have an adapter. Which I've specifically asked them about a few times in pictures, but as I suspected it, it can't just be unplugged and needs an adapter to plug into the rest. So... those are on their way, we'll see. I suspect the OEM backup cam video comes in via that cable based on my research and wiring diagrams, but again, we'll see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good to know.
Did they give you a guide how to fix the airbag issue?
Just to let you know: In case of an accident, the airbags can be activated or not without control. This is a severe security issue, you should take care of.
The AMI cable just provides audio and is normally used for external audio sources like iPod, IPhone and such things. May be they use it to get the head unit speaking to your OEM amplifier. I don´t know your unit and the specs. At least Audi is not that easy with these kind of units.

Well, predictably, nothing's easy.
They sent me a splitter cable for the airbag (passenger occupancy light) and hazard button. (but there's only one input to split into ....
LVDS cable was missing, so that connects the LVDS feed -> back of android. I do finally have some sight to the OEM UI, but only briefly, and I can't interact with it with any buttons. The backup camera will come on but only briefly, and only the first time. After that it cuts to OEM nav, and then only for a second.
AMI adapter (straightforard) would in theory help audi, but I suspect the priori issue with the oem system and lack of mmi buttons working is somehow blocking control / and thus "aux" audio.
However, at the least, I was able to remove the OEM occupancy / hazazrd button, and attach it to the splitter they gave me. Tucked it into the dash (meaning I can't... see the light but for now fine) and cleared the Air bag code. And yes, air bag stays off. Finally. So that's better.
I'm awaiting their reply on all the rest. Driving me crazy. Based on searches, I'm starting to wonder if this is programmed for the wrong baud rate? I only vaguely know these terms, but have stumbled across similar symptoms of people retrofitting MMI 3G+ and issues witht the controls not working, flashing red lights.

jcapxda said:
Well, predictably, nothing's easy.
They sent me a splitter cable for the airbag (passenger occupancy light) and hazard button. (but there's only one input to split into ....
LVDS cable was missing, so that connects the LVDS feed -> back of android. I do finally have some sight to the OEM UI, but only briefly, and I can't interact with it with any buttons. The backup camera will come on but only briefly, and only the first time. After that it cuts to OEM nav, and then only for a second.
AMI adapter (straightforard) would in theory help audi, but I suspect the priori issue with the oem system and lack of mmi buttons working is somehow blocking control / and thus "aux" audio.
However, at the least, I was able to remove the OEM occupancy / hazazrd button, and attach it to the splitter they gave me. Tucked it into the dash (meaning I can't... see the light but for now fine) and cleared the Air bag code. And yes, air bag stays off. Finally. So that's better.
I'm awaiting their reply on all the rest. Driving me crazy. Based on searches, I'm starting to wonder if this is programmed for the wrong baud rate? I only vaguely know these terms, but have stumbled across similar symptoms of people retrofitting MMI 3G+ and issues witht the controls not working, flashing red lights.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello where did you put the splitter into?
1 goes to the original cable
1 goes to the new framepanel (without the air bag light)
and where goes the third cable?
Please help thx