Anyone use this yet? So Far this is the best thing I have seen on the market. Yes, its only 10W so the new S10 will only charge at wireless fast charge speeds not wireless fast charge 2.0. But the S9+,S9 etc. will have full speed Wireless fast charge 1.0. - The only other caveat is the Micro USB connector. I'd prefer USB-C as we are updating all our electronics and removing anything with legacy cables. Tired of carrying multiple cables for everything and nothing all at once.
I haven't found many references to these on the net.
Clamping vs magnetic vs IR auto clamping vs Gravity/tension clamping
- Magnetic throws off the internal compass (I've had to recalibrate a few times after using one.)
- IR is just another thing to fail and don't want a motorized item dropping my expensive device while bumping around off road and on road.
- the gravity style clamps are normally orientated vertical. I use my device in Horizontal orientation. Additionally they have aa bad rep for bouncing a phone out of the clamping arms in rough terrain. for 80 percent of the readers, this is not an issue. For us , the other 20 percent, it is a huge issue.
- Clamping mechanically is the way to go in my book. Nothing to interfere with or fail if and when we are bumping around off road.
PROS-
- Mechanical Clamping
- Wireless Fast Charge 1.0 / 10W max
- Small Form Factor
- Silicone rollers to assist in holding it firm
Cons-
- Wireless Fast Charge 1.0
- Micro USB
- No Ball adapter for RAM Mounts ( Have to tear this apart and modify it)
Would Change for future iterations
- Color - Black on Black option
- USB-C
- Wireless Fast Charge 2.0 or better. (Xiaomi has a 20w Wireless Fast Charging puck already)
- Windshield Mount or Ball Adapter options
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HOCO-Car-Q...hash=item2ac91d695e:m:mTQyY-DdpJf9QR_hmtc64xg
https://hocotech.com/product/phone-...-wireless-charger-s1-roller-clamp-air-outlet/
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S1 in-car wireless charging phone holder with silicone roller clamp 5W / 7.5W / 10W output easy one-hand operation
1. Material: PC + aluminum alloy + silicone.
2. Input: 5V / 2A, 9V / 2A.
3. Output: 5W / 7.5W / 10W.
4. Press the button to adjust the clamp width.
5. Sliding silicone roller does not hurt the phone.
6. Easy one-hand operation.
Related
As the title says!
I need a car charger and i don't know what to buy...
i wanted something that can last at least 6 months without having the cable damaged due to stretching
I use the cable of my TomTom One XL. Same voltage...
I like using my ebay-bought USB adapter and retractable mini-usb cable. Cuts down on the mess, and lets me charge other USB devices.
I use Motorola OEM that I got long time ago (4 years back with my first RAZR) - It works no problem
I also use regular USB cable with my wife's iPhone car charger and works fine too... So I guess Blackberry charger will do the same since I use Blackberry as home charger too occasionaly
Note that many of the miniusb chargers will not work consistently. Elsewhere here on the forum there are extensive details, but in short, HTC compliant chargers (meaning will charge 100% of the time) short pins 4-5 on the mini usb port. This is not implemented in normal mini usb chargers. The normal (non-HTC compliant) will usually work but not always.
Read about a small percentage that seemed to have trouble (RLOD related trouble) from cheap or non-HTC chargers, so I got a true HTC OEM at www.tiltdepot.com. Best $25 I've spent.
I have used a tomtom car(borrowed from my mom) charger too, wich is 2.0 Ah, but found out the HTC charger (same 2.0 Ah same voltage) charged a lot better than the tomtom one. After one hour(started with a 3/4 charged battary) the tomtom was pretty much the same(3/4) and the HTC one was fully charged.
Yep... With the TomTom charger I believe the charging current is limited because the HTC phone sees it as potentially a data connection. The HTC charger has short between pins 4 and 5 addresses that. Hard to beat the HTC charger.
Naztech Premium LCD Display Car Charger:
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http://www.naztech.com/products.php?id_prod=40
The "11 Foot Heavy-Duty Cord" is nice... it's coiled tightly, and long enough to get to wherever you need to in the front of the cab, be it a center console or a seat. The digital display tells you how long it's been charging, and changes color when still charging the device (blue is standby, orange is charging). Nothing beats the Naztech for a USB car charger. I have the silver one, but it looks like the newer ones are black; you can probably get your choice of either if you get one off of Ebay like I did.
They have lots of other cool products for phones, too.
I noticed a few complaints on this forum and others about Goggle Navigation being too much of a drain on the handset even with it plugged into a car charger.
My suspicion is that this is down to badly made car chargers, and on a previous occasion using the Testing menu, I noticed that my own charger was being reported by the phone as USB.
So I set about trying to rectify this, using my awesome rolleyes knowledge of how the phone recognises what it's being charged with and an 'I don't care if I kill the charger, it was free' attitude.
I took it apart and tested continuity between the 2 middle (data) pins on the USB plug, there was none, and the problem was identified. I simply flipped the board over and soldered these 2 pins together and reassembled the charger.
Took it out to the car, plugged it in and lo and behold, the Testing menu now reports that it is plugged into an AC source! As my phone is fully charged and I don't have any trips planned right now I don't know how much real world difference there is, but it's looking promising, at least the phone now knows it can draw 1000mA instead of 500mA, and for 5 minutes 'work' it was worth doing.
I didn't bother with a how-to as I figured chances of someone having the same charger as me were slim, but pics aren't a problem:
Here is my universal USB charger with the cover removed:
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and the reverse side with the 2 pins soldered together:
Probably doesn't tell you a huge amount unfortunately, but to be honest that's because it really is a simple procedure with not much to tell.
where did you get your universal charger? I'm wanting to chop one up and hide the nexus dock on the side of my GTI instead of blocking my 6" double din monitor..
Almost like you can do your radar detector..
-Chalrie
It was an Xmas present, part of a universal kit. It's made by Mountech if it helps though.
thanks I'll look it up, hopefully most universal ones are designed the same usb wise then I could dremel my dash and have a easy access usb port for nav.
Fail!
Despite the mod, it's still not enough to charge/sustain the N1 with Google Navigation running (screen on full brightness). Guess it's just not man enough to produce the required 1A.
I have a USB port installed in my car as per the headunit
at full brightness and while using google navigation AND streaming Slacker via bluetooth... I do not have a -% charge
in fact, the N1 stays fully charged at all times... (however if I have less than 100%, it does take a long time for the % to go up... might take 5 minutes for 1% increase)
sooo I'm not sure what the problem is with the car chargers (as I don't use one)
I have a USB headunit and never thought to try and charge from it! D'oh!
This post is dedicated for those who frequently use their beloved smartphone/tablet in the car for navigation or music.
Bored to see your device still loosing battery even if plugged in the car? The charging speed is way too slow?
Seems it gets less juice than it consumes for GPS ?
We will discuss why and how to trick this.
(I know it is already a well known subject but who knows, maybe it will help someone.)
Why ?
The low speed battery charge is due to the fact modern devices control themselves AC power they need for charging.
The device see two possible states when pluggin the microUSB connector :
- The USB plug is used for data connexion (with a Computer, USB Stick or any OTG accessory)
- The USB plug is used for charging only
Here is a wiring diagram of microUSB/USB cable (non-OTG) :
View attachment 2852878
To know in which state he actualy is, the device test the two data connectors D+ and D-.
If there is no connection between them, the devices assumes it is plugged on a computer. Then it limits its own consumption for charge to 500mA. This is how much a standard USB port is able to provide on a computer.
But if the two data pins are connected together, the devices believe he is plugged on standard AC and get the power it really need to charge efficiently (1A, 2A,... depends of the device).
How ?
WARNING
Do NOT plug this connector in your computer.
Do NOT use it for another usage than the usage I describe.
It might destroy the planet (almost)Assuming you don't want to destroy a connexion cable, there is a simple trick to achieve the very same result using a simple USB Female to USB Male Adapter.
View attachment 2852841
Why such a connector have been created is quite weird to me but it serves our purpose so let's get a cheap one on ebay
For the modding you will need
A sharp knife / cutter / scalpel
Soldering tools (iron, materials)
Cyanolit glue (or any glue you likes)
5 min
First, use the knife to open the connector form the side. Do it gently since you will reassemble it the same way in the end.
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Use the knife again to remove some of the white plastic to reach the internal connector pins
Here you can see the two pins are unconnected
Use the soldering kit you have to connect the two central pins
(In fact the USB specification mention a 200 Ohm resistance. Mine works without it).
Beware for the soldering not to touch the external part of the connector
Verify the connection between D- and D+ through the connector
Reassemble the connector with the glue
Result
You will get "AC charging" on your device while using this connector between your car power supply and the charging cable of your device.
Before / After
Corrections and advices are of course welcome
Narkoa
Yep or if you have an s3 or s2 get siyah kernel then install stweaks and change charging speed on USB plug
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA Free mobile app
thatonerootuser said:
Yep or if you have an s3 or s2 get siyah kernel then install stweaks and change charging speed on USB plug
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Input: DC 12-24V and Output: DC 5.0V/1000mA . Nealy 1A output current is enough for most cell phones
Edit. Sorry the image is a little bit large . I dont' know how to limit it's display width on forum thread.
SallyChen said:
Input: DC 12-24V and Output: DC 5.0V/1000mA . Nealy 1A output current is enough for most cell phones
Edit. Sorry the image is a little bit large . I dont' know how to limit it's display width on forum thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
very interesting trick...
My daughter's Nexus 7 wouldn't charge.
After trying ALL the tricks found here and elsewhere I bought a new battery for $40.
Replacing the battery gave me the ability to boot the tablet and I discovered that it was not charging anymore : when powered off, the white on black battery sign wouldn't show up and when booted, the small battery icon wouldn't show the lightning sign when plugged in.
I tried all the chargers and usb cables to no avail.
I then tried to power it using the pogo pins and THAT worked. :laugh: I was finally able to charge it but using the pogo pins.
Conclusion : sometimes the internal charging circuits that links the USB power to the battery is dead but another path exists between the pogo pins to the battery.
The best way to solve my problem was then to buy a dock but :
I couldn't find one below $40
My Daughter's cover wouldn't fit into a dock
So I decided to do a small hardware hack to resurect the Nexus 7 : to internally short-circuit the +5V pogo pin to the +5V USB pin.
It took me about 5 mn to do so and it's been working for a week now with no flaw.
Disclaimer :
I do NOT advise you to do this, Do not do this.
If you do, I'm not responsible of any damage you should encounter.
It really is a last chance option, and it only works if you have that (rare!) problem.
You can tell that you have the same problem if the tablet is charging with a dock and not charging with a USB cable.
If this is the case, you'd better buy a charging dock than doing this.
Hardware fix (see disclaimer)
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In the picture above, I just soldered the +5V pogo pin (bottom right when on the screen) to the USB +5V (right one when on the screen) using thin cable.
To do this I first removed the speakers (3 screws). The standard thin wire was preimpregnated with solder paste on both ends and I only briefly (2sec) heated the wire end on the pogo and usb pin to make them catch.
Problem solved.
I just saw the iFixit teardown
https://youtu.be/VYFbSpvSE-w
I retrofitted a Galaxy S5 and S4 to wireless charging with Qi receivers off of eBay:
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I know there is one for the G4 (since it's in their flip cover), but I was wondering if it is possible to work with an existing coil and wire it up to the Nexus 5X.
First, the cover pops off like a Galaxy S5 cover:
Here is the back cover and internals. Normally, the NFC covers the battery, but I am thinking it might be above the camera since there are connectors from cover to internals and would make sense for Android pay. So, what is the big shield on the right that covers the battery? (see question mark):
I think the battery posts are under the white piece of tape on the right - easy access for an NFC receiver to charge:
Worst case, the battery contacts are accessible under the midframe (10 screws):
So, do you think a retrofit of an existing Qi receiver would work? (the NFC part might be not used). The shield on the back over the battery might have to be removed, but I am not sure of it's purpose. Alternatively, anybody heard if any company is making a Qi receiver for the 5X? I'd buy the 5X over the 6P if I could get wireless charging.
I guarantee it's do-able. I don't know if the battery fuel gauge contains the logic to simply solder the coil output directly to the leads going to the battery but it shouldn't be a problem to solder to the VDC/GND pins/traces coming from the USB port. The only thing that concerns me, and I'm saying this w/out having looked at how USB c accomplishes it's reversibility, is that the pins for power aren't achiral (for lack of a better word) depending on the orientation of the plug. Would need to read up on that.
Just saw another thread opened shortly after this one was posted:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-5x/general/nexus-5x-qi-wireless-hack-mod-t3231461
Guess I had the right idea , but the video shows only the teardown, no connection.
Hi
etwashoo said:
Just saw another thread opened shortly after this one was posted:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-5x/general/nexus-5x-qi-wireless-hack-mod-t3231461
Guess I had the right idea , but the video shows only the teardown, no connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The NFC antenna is around the camera, you are correct on that. That foam material, I'm guessing that is what it is, is there to fill any gap between the battery and the back case to avoid the back being able to press down, and being soft it works with the varying differences in tolerance with the the battery thickness. It could even be to fill a recess that was suppose to be filled by a wireless charging coil.
Notice though the foam continues up to the site of the fingerprint reader. That should remain, it's job is to apply pressure on the contact pads of the flexible circuit board.
In the video where they show a mod, what they have done is used a QI coil which has it's own circuitry which outputs 5 volts, this connects by thin wires to the +5v and ground of the USB socket, and from there goes to the battery via the normal charging circuit, the phone doesn't know it is wireless charging, it just looks like a USB charger is attached. This direct connection may cause a problem when plugging in a normal USB charger as you end up with 5 volts in reverse going into the QI circuitry and charger, presumably though that circuity is protected with a diode so it doesn't matter.
You shouldn't connect anything directly to the battery terminal as this will bypass all the charging circuitry and would cause damage and likely trigger the batteries protection circuits and cut it dead.
How cleanly the back refits is another thing, their can't be that much space.
Regards
Phil