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Canbus stereo doesnt stay on longer than 10 minutes

Hi
I'm hoping you can help, I don't have much hair left to pull out!
I have an Audi TT 2003 and bought a VW Passat android 4.4 head unit.
The head unit uses canbus system to turn on
I connected the stereo to check operation and everything seemed fine.
After fitting (which took an age) discovered that stereo turns off after ten mins. I have to remove key, open and close the door then put key back in then stereo powers up again for ten mins. If I remove the key before ten mins and get out, stereo powers down.
Any ideas?

Peterbrid said:
Hi
I'm hoping you can help, I don't have much hair left to pull out!
I have an Audi TT 2003 and bought a VW Passat android 4.4 head unit.
The head unit uses canbus system to turn on
I connected the stereo to check operation and everything seemed fine.
After fitting (which took an age) discovered that stereo turns off after ten mins. I have to remove key, open and close the door then put key back in then stereo powers up again for ten mins. If I remove the key before ten mins and get out, stereo powers down.
Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe the canbus decoder from Passat it's not compatible with the Audi TT, but you can cut red wire from canbus decoder and connect directly to acc signal (12v when switch is in ACC and ON position)
All other function from canbus decoder are fine? (lights, reverse, door info, a/c info, etc)

Thanks for the reply.
There is no external canbus decoder. The canbus wires connect directly to the head unit so it must be an internal decoder.
I was thinking there may be a difference between canbus systems. They are both VAG group systems but two years different, car 2003 head unit for a 2005. Was canbus updated in this period? This is the nuclear option as it means I'll have to rip it out and start again (I have tried a canbus unit with external decoder just to see what happens-same thing just comes on for ten mins)
However, there has to be some communication as HU turns on with signal from canbus and will turn off if u remove the key (before ten mins). Also the other functions work, fuel guage etc

Peterbrid said:
Thanks for the reply.
There is no external canbus decoder. The canbus wires connect directly to the head unit so it must be an internal decoder.
I was thinking there may be a difference between canbus systems. They are both VAG group systems but two years different, car 2003 head unit for a 2005. Was canbus updated in this period? This is the nuclear option as it means I'll have to rip it out and start again (I have tried a canbus unit with external decoder just to see what happens-same thing just comes on for ten mins)
However, there has to be some communication as HU turns on with signal from canbus and will turn off if u remove the key (before ten mins). Also the other functions work, fuel guage etc
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a trouble, do you open head unit to see how is inside? Maybe you can made the mod internally.

Thank you for the reply
That's what I was thinking, but I'm a little bit worried about opening it up. I don't have much experience with pcbs.
So my questions are:-
1) If I open up the canbus bypass box (from another stereo) will the pcb inside be broadly similar to the one inside the HU, giving me a rough plan as to what to look for re:- wiring and live etc
2) the switched live from a canbus bypass box 12v (as previous post said can just bypass with a switched live), is it likely to be same inside HU or will it be stepped down to 5v (should I just buy a multimeter)

Peterbrid said:
Thank you for the reply
That's what I was thinking, but I'm a little bit worried about opening it up. I don't have much experience with pcbs.
So my questions are:-
1) If I open up the canbus bypass box (from another stereo) will the pcb inside be broadly similar to the one inside the HU, giving me a rough plan as to what to look for re:- wiring and live etc
2) the switched live from a canbus bypass box 12v (as previous post said can just bypass with a switched live), is it likely to be same inside HU or will it be stepped down to 5v (should I just buy a multimeter)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1.- I have not idea, I never see inside of a unit with internal canbus decoder. You can open your unit and take some pictures maybe I can help you, also take pictures of the main harness of your unit.
2.- For a external canbus units just cut red wire from canbus decoder to head unit and connect the red wire from the side of head unit to 12v switched.

I will post some pics
And thanks again for the help

SOLVED Joying head unit with factory VW Amp

I have a 2007 VW Golf with the factory fitted amplifier under the seat. How do I make this work with my Joying head unit? I see the orange AMP wire coming out the back of the unit but I don't know what to connect it to...

SOLUTION
You need to provide power to the AMP-CONT orange wire, this can be done by plugging it into the empty hole next to the blue wire going into the CANBUS box, then Amp option in Device>Sound is set to On.

Not working add-on universal steering wheel control on Joying PX5

Hi,
I finally bought this universal SWC unit from aliexpress: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Car-...574.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2f4f4c4d3Pq2pc
I repeated this Boyka video, so I'm pretty sure that I did everything correct.
My unit originally has a CANbus as I have a Skoda.
I removed the CANbus when I got the unit (because I don't want it anyway) , connected it again 2 months ago (let's give it a shot), and now for the SWC I removed it again (as I know the CANbus "takes over" when it comes to SWC).
I disconnected the brown key1, the pink key2 and the GND wire from the little CANbus adapter connector.
From the the SQC receiving box to the Joying, I connected ACC to ACC, key1 to brown, key2 to pink, GND to GND.
In the steering wheel screen nothing works when I push buttons on the small unit or on the screen, be it long or short. The 6 fields in the top of the screen only quickly alternate between 254-255 (see attached IMG_20181020_145152172.jpg).
So then I connected my multimeter (set on 20V) as well. I connected the RED additionally to the key1 and the BLACK additionally to the GND.
I now read 5.3V source voltage. When I push buttons to close the loop, the voltage drops for a number of keys to, for example, 0.8V or 1.3V or 2.8V. Some buttons don't react.
When I connect the RED additionally to the key2, the source voltage is again 5.3V. Now the other keys show values like 1.3V or 2.8V when pressed.
Obviously the little universal unit works and it obviously needs both key1 and key2 wires.
As said, I have the CANbus disconnected and in the CARsettings I have set the CANbus settings to NULL.
What is wrong, or what am I doing wrong?
(Note: I repeated this on my Sofia unit with the exact same results: zero, that is).

surfer63 said:
Hi,
I finally bought this universal SWC unit from aliexpress: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Car-...574.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2f4f4c4d3Pq2pc
I repeated this Boyka video, so I'm pretty sure that I did everything correct.
My unit originally has a CANbus as I have a Skoda.
I removed the CANbus when I got the unit (because I don't want it anyway) , connected it again 2 months ago (let's give it a shot), and now for the SWC I removed it again (as I know the CANbus "takes over" when it comes to SWC).
I disconnected the brown key1, the pink key2 and the GND wire from the little CANbus adapter connector.
From the the SQC receiving box to the Joying, I connected ACC to ACC, key1 to brown, key2 to pink, GND to GND.
In the steering wheel screen nothing works when I push buttons on the small unit or on the screen, be it long or short. The 6 fields in the top of the screen only quickly alternate between 254-255 (see attached IMG_20181020_145152172.jpg).
So then I connected my multimeter (set on 20V) as well. I connected the RED additionally to the key1 and the BLACK additionally to the GND.
I now read 5.3V source voltage. When I push buttons to close the loop, the voltage drops for a number of keys to, for example, 0.8V or 1.3V or 2.8V. Some buttons don't react.
When I connect the RED additionally to the key2, the source voltage is again 5.3V. Now the other keys show values like 1.3V or 2.8V when pressed.
Obviously the little universal unit works and it obviously needs both key1 and key2 wires.
As said, I have the CANbus disconnected and in the CARsettings I have set the CANbus settings to NULL.
What is wrong, or what am I doing wrong?
(Note: I repeated this on my Sofia unit with the exact same results: zero, that is).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought one of these for my Joying Sofia system, one made for VWs, as I have a Passat. I had the exact same experience as you, right down to measuring the voltages and seeing them change.
Step back to my previous sysyem, an Xtrons that I bought a universal steering wheel mounted wireless controller, and it worked flawlessly. The Xtrons was also made specifically fow VWs, but the generic controller worked fine. I tried it with the VW-centric Joying Sofia and went through the testing discussed previously.
I contacted Joying Support and was told that the system itself would only respond to the resistance from the VW Can Bus and unless I had that I was out if luck.

markmorto said:
I contacted Joying Support and was told that the system itself would only respond to the resistance from the VW Can Bus and unless I had that I was out if luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply.
Did Joying say anything about when you remove the CAN bus adapter? Should it somehow work in that case? Because I first disconnected the brown/pink from the Joying CANbus connector and also removed the entire JY CANbus itself.
Anyway, I will check again. I thought that the brown and pink key1 and key2 wires were leading, but obviously that's not true.
The green (CAN/L) and black/green(CAN/H) wire coming from the Skoda (in my case) ISO adapter are leading into the JY CAN bus. The pink/brown then come again from the JY CANbus and lead to the unit.
So I will try to connect the key1/key2 wires to the green and black/green wire. But maybe I need to ground the CAN/L wire and connect one or both key1/key2 wires to the CAN/H wire.
(Although in one of the Joying diagrams, the green and green/black are for the Left Rear speaker, but that does not comply with my Skoda ISO adapter. confusing.)
Of course it can also mean that the JY CANbus expects a digital CANbus signal instead of an analog resistive signal, in which case it will not work at all, not without an analog to digital converter at least.
To be continued.

surfer63 said:
Thanks for your reply.
Did Joying say anything about when you remove the CAN bus adapter? Should it somehow work in that case?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The way they made it sound, the stereo itself only responded to CAN bus signals. The reply was a little strange in that it mentioned 'resistor values that match original VW'. I don't know if other head units have this problem, but am a little frustrated that I lost this functionality that I had with a "cheaper" Chinese head unit.

markmorto said:
The way they made it sound, the stereo itself only responded to CAN bus signals. The reply was a little strange in that it mentioned 'resistor values that match original VW'. I don't know if other head units have this problem, but am a little frustrated that I lost this functionality that I had with a "cheaper" Chinese head unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is also very weird.
I checked the Boyka video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odnEb-1b310) where he is in a VW, using a Joying unit with a CAN bus where he simply soldered/connected the key1/key2 wires to the brown and pink. Why does that work? It is a Sofia like you have and like I still have on the bench currently doing my tests on.

surfer63 said:
It is also very weird.
I checked the Boyka video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odnEb-1b310) where he is in a VW, using a Joying unit with a CAN bus where he simply soldered/connected the key1/key2 wires to the brown and pink. Why does that work? It is a Sofia like you have and like I still have on the bench currently doing my tests on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had some more mail exchange with Joying. The VW models have a different motherboard with different connections. The unit in the video is actually a universal model just connected to display the working of a universal SWC with a universal Joying unit.
So maybe I should try to use some "universal analog/CAN-bus steering wheel converter" and connect the SWC to the converter, and then connect the converter to the CAN/H, CAN/L connectors of the Joying ISO adapter.
But I'm already tired of it. I wanted a simple way to try and maybe do some test work for XFytTweaker.

Joying New Design Android Oreo JY-FO128N4PX5S issues

Hi all,
I have the Joying Android Oreo JY-FO128N4PX5S installed in my Ford Focus ST and have issues which Joying have not been able to fix.
The main issue is that something in the head unit is keeping my ECU alive so the Dash led where the odometer is stays on 24/7
I disconnected the Canbus and it seems to have fixed it for awhile but now I have not wheel controls.
I reconnected the Canbus but cut the black/red wire and spliced it into Key2 wire as recommended by Joying. And tried to re-learn the wheel controls but this does not work as the controls do nothing in this setup.
But ECU stays on. Anyone know if there are any settings inside the unit to make sure it goes off when the power is turned off and does not keep sending messages to the ECU.
Thanks

Most units with CAN bus SWC controls have a different motherboard than units with resistance based SWC controls.
Probably your unit must use the CAN bus otherwise your SWC will most probably not work. That his for the FYT units. Your PX5S is an STT unit. That might work differently.
However, in your case you probably have 2 constant power leads. Both the red and yellow power cable deliver constant power. That is why your unit stays on.
In some of the VAG (VW/Skoda/Seat) cars it also works that way: Switching off the builtin radio is also controlled by the CAN bus and this CAN bus stays on (but not the radio in that case). All those Chinese "multi purpose" units do not support that.
Please check if both power cables deliver constant power.

Hiworld FD01.11 ford mondeo canbus problem

Hello,
some days ago i did a terrible mistake and i joined the can-rx cable(which connects the canbus decoder with the head-unit) with the swc controls cable (from the head-unit side, NOT from the car side.) After that the head-unit never powers off. It stays always on and also all the canbus commands dont work at all, like the ILL command or the reverse camera mode which was automatic.
In ford mondeo there are no ILL or ACC cables coming to the ford quadlock connector.The reverse camera image activates though canbus command as the reverse activation cable connects to the canbus decoder. All these commands come through canbus communications.
So my assumption is that either i made damage to the head-unit can-rx input or to the canbus decoder.
I have noticed three things:
1) All the head-unit functions including flashing the mcu and flashing the system-rom work ok! I read that can-rx and can-tx connect directly to the mcu so with no fried mcu on the head-unit i think that the damaged canbus scenario is more possible.
2)The canbus decoder outputs constanlty 12-14 volts on ACC cable even when the car ignition is off. That is why the head-unit never powers off. Also when i enable the headlights the ILL cable has 0 volts which is sadly expected as the ILL (dimmind of the screen and leds illumination on the head-unit) does not work.
I also gave 12 volts from my power supply to the canbus decoder with nothing connected on it and i checked the ACC cable with multimeter. The voltage was 12 volts as with my previous tests at the car where everything were connected together.
3)And one last thing i want to mention is that after all these i checked with my original sony radio that came with the car and everything is working fine including ACC and ILL so for sure there is no damage to the car side.
So i want your knowledge please.
Do you think that is it a faulty canbus decoder? Is it normal for the ACC pin on the canbus decoder to be 12 volts when there is nothing connected to it?
Does the canbus send commands to the canbus decoder through CanH and CanL for the ACC pin to be 0 volts so that is why it is always 12 volts in the first place when disconnected from the head-unit?
And if the ACC should be 0 volts where should i check for damage on the canbus decoder? Because i checked the capacitors and all seem ok. Also i cant find any obvious short on the circuit. Maybe it is the Nation N32L406 that got damaged?
Thanks in advance!