Recently got a Seicane head unit with Android 8.1 GO and MCU1: HW8227L-3.3-SWD-1.9
When I use my phone via bluetooth the sound from the caller is fine but my voice sounds low and distorted at the other end.
Tried various android apps but no luck so far.
What to to? maybe get an external mic?
Me too
Hello,
I've got same unit and same problem. I put a external mic but still have the same problem.
We hear the sound of the car but not much the voice. I think there is a problem with software processing. Please help us
Adrienpierre said:
Hello,
I've got same unit and same problem. I put a external mic but still have the same problem.
We hear the sound of the car but not much the voice. I think there is a problem with software processing. Please help us
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How did you connect the external mic?
via the rear jack connector, as indicated on the instructions. I checked, it works. maybe I should unplug the internal microphone ...
Took the unit apart and unsoldered the built-in microphone - I then soldered a 3.5 mm minijack extension to the circuit board. There's two small pins at the bottom of the board that says mic+ and mic-.
Sound is now improved with an external mic - not perfect but certainly better.
The reason as to why I soldered a minijack extension to the boad is due to my unit not having an external mic plug from factory.
Seicane_owner said:
Took the unit apart and unsoldered the built-in microphone - I then soldered a 3.5 mm minijack extension to the circuit board. There's two small pins at the bottom of the board that says mic+ and mic-.
Sound is now improved with an external mic - not perfect but certainly better.
The reason as to why I soldered a minijack extension to the boad is due to my unit not having an external mic plug from factory.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Seicane,
I am also facing this issue - but a newbie to soldering.
Did you solder to the pins or the adjacent pads ? Any advice/precautions for a newbie?
Thx!
roneytut said:
Hi Seicane,
I am also facing this issue - but a newbie to soldering.
Did you solder to the pins or the adjacent pads ? Any advice/precautions for a newbie?
Thx!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To the pins - the pads are not connected to the mic circuit.
Put some solder on the wires before soldering them to the pins.
Also - I strongly recommend that you unsolder the internal mic if you leave in in it might interfere with the external mic.
Seicane_owner said:
To the pins - the pads are not connected to the mic circuit.
Put some solder on the wires before soldering them to the pins.
Also - I strongly recommend that you unsolder the internal mic if you leave in in it might interfere with the external mic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the quick reply!
I saw another post here that has an interesting finding regarding what to solder/un-solder, and what to connect and disconnect.
Did you try any of that?
roneytut said:
Thanks for the quick reply!
I saw another post here that has an interesting finding regarding what to solder/un-solder, and what to connect and disconnect.
Did you try any of that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That thread was my main inspiration for trying to better the mic reception. I tried various software mods before but none had any impact whatsoever.
The main problem with my radio is the quality and/or the implementation of the internal mic at a hardware level - I could not see any other way but changing it with an external mic.
Seicane_owner said:
That thread was my main inspiration for trying to better the mic reception. I tried various software mods before but none had any impact whatsoever.
The main problem with my radio is the quality and/or the implementation of the internal mic at a hardware level - I could not see any other way but changing it with an external mic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe try MTK engineering shortcut and change Headset settings?
MTK Engineering Mode start Settings
Headset Mode
Original settings
Level 0 - 250
Level 1 - 192
Level 2 - 192
Level 3 - 180
Level 4 - 192
Level 5 - 196
Level 6 - 184
Level 7 - 184
Level 8 - 184
Level 9 - 184
Level 10 - 184
Level 11 - 0
Level 12 - 0
Level 13 - 0
Level 14 - 0
Custom settings
Level 0 - 14 - 240
raphael.atienza said:
Maybe try MTK engineering shortcut and change Headset settings?
MTK Engineering Mode start Settings
Headset Mode
Original settings
Level 0 - 250
Level 1 - 192
Level 2 - 192
Level 3 - 180
Level 4 - 192
Level 5 - 196
Level 6 - 184
Level 7 - 184
Level 8 - 184
Level 9 - 184
Level 10 - 184
Level 11 - 0
Level 12 - 0
Level 13 - 0
Level 14 - 0
Custom settings
Level 0 - 14 - 240
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you - but I tried that and it made no difference.
Seicane_owner said:
Thank you - but I tried that and it made no difference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you going to solder a new mic?
raphael.atienza said:
Are you going to solder a new mic?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Allready done. Take a look at my earlier post.
Seicane_owner said:
Allready done. Take a look at my earlier post.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah I see. Did it help? I am thinking of doing this too, but instead of the wire directly from the mic, a female 3.5mm plug. Then that is where the replacement aftermarket mic will be plugged.
raphael.atienza said:
Ah I see. Did it help? I am thinking of doing this too, but instead of the wire directly from the mic, a female 3.5mm plug. Then that is where the replacement aftermarket mic will be plugged.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats exactly what I did.
Quote from my earlier post
"Took the unit apart and unsoldered the built-in microphone - I then soldered a 3.5 mm minijack extension to the circuit board. There's two small pins at the bottom of the board that says mic+ and mic-.
Sound is now improved with an external mic - not perfect but certainly better."
Seicane_owner said:
Thats exactly what I did.
Quote from my earlier post
"Took the unit apart and unsoldered the built-in microphone - I then soldered a 3.5 mm minijack extension to the circuit board. There's two small pins at the bottom of the board that says mic+ and mic-.
Sound is now improved with an external mic - not perfect but certainly better."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I will probably try that. Calls are okay on mine but Google Voice recognition is spotty. It can't understand me vs recognition on my phone or a wired headset. I have to shout at the headunit for it to understand what Spotify playlist I want to shuffle.
Halo, guys, I just bought a Podofo Android Unit and i have same issue with the microphone. did you fix it?
---------- Post added at 11:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:11 PM ----------
Seicane_owner said:
Thank you - but I tried that and it made no difference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
raphael.atienza said:
Maybe try MTK engineering shortcut and change Headset settings?
MTK Engineering Mode start Settings
Headset Mode
Original settings
Level 0 - 250
Level 1 - 192
Level 2 - 192
Level 3 - 180
Level 4 - 192
Level 5 - 196
Level 6 - 184
Level 7 - 184
Level 8 - 184
Level 9 - 184
Level 10 - 184
Level 11 - 0
Level 12 - 0
Level 13 - 0
Level 14 - 0
Custom settings
Level 0 - 14 - 240
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Halo, how do you enter to those settings?
raphael.atienza said:
Maybe try MTK engineering shortcut and change Headset settings?
MTK Engineering Mode start Settings
Headset Mode
Original settings
Level 0 - 250
Level 1 - 192
Level 2 - 192
Level 3 - 180
Level 4 - 192
Level 5 - 196
Level 6 - 184
Level 7 - 184
Level 8 - 184
Level 9 - 184
Level 10 - 184
Level 11 - 0
Level 12 - 0
Level 13 - 0
Level 14 - 0
Custom settings
Level 0 - 14 - 240
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It improved the level of the mic even I will try to install a external microphone solded to mic buitl in.
built in micro replaced
raphael.atienza said:
Maybe try MTK engineering shortcut and change Headset settings?
MTK Engineering Mode start Settings
Headset Mode
Original settings
Level 0 - 250
Level 1 - 192
Level 2 - 192
Level 3 - 180
Level 4 - 192
Level 5 - 196
Level 6 - 184
Level 7 - 184
Level 8 - 184
Level 9 - 184
Level 10 - 184
Level 11 - 0
Level 12 - 0
Level 13 - 0
Level 14 - 0
Custom settings
Level 0 - 14 - 240
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried to intall a external mic with rca cable but it didn't works so I decided to,
I removed built-in micro. It is micro microphone. It is impossible to get good level of sound. See pictures.
I soldered a cable with a female 3.5mm jack and I plugged an external micro. Check pictures and take in mind right soldering pads. I made a mistake at first try. With a multimeter I could identify others points.
I also set up higher level of volume through mtk engineering app and WORKS.
Special thanks to this forum.
Based on the guidelines provided at various forums and as many google searches and youtube videos, I have done all possibilities at software level (no intention to open the hardware initially), but no luck.
Finally, I have soldered the external mic and removed the internal mic. It's really a surprise. Now, my voice is very clear to the recipients.
My Hardware Details:
XY Auto - YT3560
Related
Firstly, I like to say "Sorry HTC, but the headphones included in the box really suck".
Having said that, I found my old O2 Headphones which had an in-line volume control & button...........only problem is that it was 2.5mm plug while the HD2 had a 3.5mm connector.
I've cut the plug off the headphones and went out and bought a 3.5mm 4 Pole plug from Jaycar.
Ive tried wiring it the same way the 2.5mm was connected, but have had some problems with it.... mainly that I can't get the button to work properly.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram or know how the HD2 3.5mm connector is wired up ?
Once I know where the wires go, it should take me a total of 60 seconds to get it wired up.
Thanks in advance
TRLOS said:
Firstly, I like to say "Sorry HTC, but the headphones included in the box really suck".
Having said that, I found my old O2 Headphones which had an in-line volume control & button...........only problem is that it was 2.5mm plug while the HD2 had a 3.5mm connector.
I've cut the plug off the headphones and went out and bought a 3.5mm 4 Pole plug from Jaycar.
Ive tried wiring it the same way the 2.5mm was connected, but have had some problems with it.... mainly that I can't get the button to work properly.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram or know how the HD2 3.5mm connector is wired up ?
Once I know where the wires go, it should take me a total of 60 seconds to get it wired up.
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After a lot of trial and error, I finally got a working headset with full stereo sound and the Microphone working as well. Dont know if this is the right or not, but it works. Only thing is I couldn't get the button to work at all.
If anyone can correct the below Diagram, it would be much appreciated.
From the Tip of the 3.5mm plug to the base
(colors based on the O2 Atom Life inner ear headset)
1. - Left Channel (Green)
2. - Right Channel (Red)
3. - Microphone + (White) >
- Ground (Blue) > Both of these on Pin3
4. - Microphone - (Copper)
NOTE *
All the standard pinouts say the Blue and Copper should be at the base of the plug but when i tried this, the sound quality was greatly reduced.......however, If you pressed the button, you would get full stereo sound as long as you were holding the button down. It also didn't allow you to answer calls via the button. For some reason, putting the Blue with the White on Pin3 seemed to work.
All same for me ))) I have my old Imate JASJAR headphones...
Any progress ? solution ?
Thanks in advance ....
Wiring Diagram of the orginal HD2 headset
Hi all, i had some trouble with my headset. Some bad connection in the wires. So I had to test with a new 3 mm plug 4 pin to make my headset work again.
So here it is:
Pin:
1 2 3 4
-===[ solder-side <---- Plug
Pin1 = left speaker
Pin2 = Right speaker
Pin3 = Ground (red,green,blue => from the shielded microphone) + blue wire
Pin4 = Microphone + xx volt for the condenser Mic.
Some extra info:
test rev. that
Pin 4 and Pin 3 = play/pause and answering
Pin 4 and Pin 2 = back
Pin 4 and Pin 3 = next
I have tested this and is fully working
I hope it helped for you
Best regards, Albert from the Netherlands
AlbertJansen said:
Hi all, i had some trouble with my headset. Some bad connection in the wires. So I had to test with a new 3 mm plug 4 pin to make my headset work again.
So here it is:
Pin:
1 2 3 4
-===[ solder-side <---- Plug
Pin1 = left speaker
Pin2 = Right speaker
Pin3 = Ground (red,green,blue => from the shielded microphone) + blue wire
Pin4 = Microphone + xx volt for the condenser Mic.
Some extra info:
test rev. that
Pin 4 and Pin 3 = play/pause and answering
Pin 4 and Pin 2 = back
Pin 4 and Pin 3 = next
I have tested this and is fully working
I hope it helped for you
Best regards, Albert from the Netherlands
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For audio part,it works,but I little bit confused.
I find 6 wires inside the cable.
Red (+) + Blue (-) = right channel
Green (+) + Red-Blue/shielded (-) = left channel
white = Mic (+) (?)
Copper = Mic (-) (?)
Pin 1:Green
Pin 2:Red
Pin 3:Blue,Red-Blue,white (?)
Pin 4:Copper (?)
Can anyone help me?
AlbertJansen said:
Some extra info:
test rev. that
Pin 4 and Pin 3 = play/pause and answering
Pin 4 and Pin 2 = back
Pin 4 and Pin 3 = next
I have tested this and is fully working
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wait a moment, this can't be right. How can shorting 4/3 be the formula for both play/pause AND for next track? Please clarify.
-Dennis
dennisthetiger said:
Wait a moment, this can't be right. How can shorting 4/3 be the formula for both play/pause AND for next track? Please clarify.
-Dennis
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Follow this link :
[GUIDE] Fixing Audio Jack + Wiring Info
I've fixed mine that I created this thread
formula for both play/pause AND for next track? Please clarify
dennisthetiger said:
Wait a moment, this can't be right. How can shorting 4/3 be the formula for both play/pause AND for next track? Please clarify.
-Dennis
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
to next you click button 2x and to Back you click 3x that's how my beats earbuds work..
Hey guys, I worked on adding external microphone features to my device for a dog-gone long time yesterday... about 5 hours. Elite Recognized Developer Rebellos searched the code and we figured out that the device wouldn't recognize my mic because it's ohms are too low. The WolfsonMicro chip uses any value below 1000 ohms to signify button presses. Above 1000 ohms it signifies a microphone. My microphone is a 900 ohm microphone, so in all actuality, it's pretty high considering most are around 100-500 ohms. However, Rebellos and I managed to hack through it. I wanted to share this method.
My target device is a Galaxy Camera, but Samsung has used WolfsonMicro chips in their devices for a long time. This also works on the Galaxy Note 2 so Its logical to assume it will work on others.
Here's the finished solution. A Samsung 4-pole to 1/4" Mic adapter with a 200ohm resistor inline.
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Introduction
The Galaxy Camera and Note2 require over 1000 ohms of resistance in order to recognize that a microphone is connected to it. So, there's two ways to do this.
1. Buy a microphone with over 1000 ohms of impedance.
2. Add some impedance.
Now, adding impedance will reduce the volume of the microphone, but that's not an entirely huge issue as adjusting volume is not a big deal. However, adding a resistor will slightly distort the waveform but even with this slight distortion it's not going to destroy the sound quality because it's a very slight ripple which in most cases will not affect the compressed recording quality.
Getting things together
Everything you need to add external, directional audio is available at Radio Shack for less than $35 USD. Buy a better microphone with higher ohms for louder sound. You get what you pay for.
1. 1/4" Mono In-Line Audio Jack (2-pack) - RS Part Number 274-0340 - $5
2. a set of Samsung Earbuds with 4-pole connections
3. optional - microphone Unidirectional Dynamic Microphone - RS Part Number 3303038 - $19.99 - note the old one is 900ohms. The new one is 600 ohms.
4. optional - Biasing Resistor - you will need to do the following equation to determine the ohmage of resistor you require. $5
1100 ohms - (ohms of your microphone stated in the manual) = ohms of resistor required to turn on the microphone.
1100 ohms - 900 ohms = 200 ohms of resistance required
5. Epoxy and Superglue $5
Building the adapter
Building the adapter is quite simple Samsung uses 7 wires in their headphones. Bare wire is not connected to anything. 3 are copper colored in clear shields there is a Blue or Green, Red and White as well. The 3 copper are the common leads The White is the microphone.
Cut the connector off the headphone, leaving 3 inches of the cable.
Cut all of the wires except for one Copper and the White wire.
Strip and tin the Copper and White wires.
Solder the copper wire to one side of the 1/4" Mono In-Line Audio Jack
*Optionally* If required to exceed 1100ohms solder the resistor to the white wire
Attatch the white wire (with resistor if used) to the center post of the 1/4" Mono In-Line Audio Jack.
At this point you can verify your setup works.
superglue the wire to hold it in place for the next step
Mix up your epoxy and apply to the resistor, wire and jack connections in a way to support the following:
1. to keep the wires from touching anything
2. to prevent physical strain on the electrical connections
You'll want to ensure that the epoxy is a light coat which totally surrounds the wire, resistor and large metal pads on the 1/4" audio jack. But don't let it go down inside the jack because it can prevent the microphone from connecting properly.
slide the 1/4" jack cover down over the epoxy after it's done drying.
It should look something like this:
Here's a video showing how it works with my cheap microphone. It works super well to remove almost all noise from my recordings and just needs about a 6db gain and bass-boost adjustment in post-processing for accurate sound reproduction. This could be and will be corrected with a better mic in the future.
Probably could build a preamp circuit using an op-amp to handle the impedance shift without losing volume.
FYI - Speech Filter
http://www.circuit-finder.com/categories/audio/audio-filter/283/speech-filter
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does 1000 ohms apply to USB driven mics (somehow)? Or is it only a matter of drivers? To be specific I'm referring to the Snowball from Blue.
I'm considering adapting this mod to my specific needs. I'm looking to hardwire my lady's car for handsfree using google now. I have headphone audio in via a tape deck adapter. This mod would allow me to add an external mic mounted to the steering wheel or dashboard.
Is the mic functionality of this mod exclusive with audio output? Or could I keep the Red, Blue, and remaining copper wires and attach them to a separate 1/4" jack for audio out?
This would then give me a Y-Adapter, with one side for Mic In, and the other for Line Out.
QNBT said:
Does 1000 ohms apply to USB driven mics (somehow)? Or is it only a matter of drivers? To be specific I'm referring to the Snowball from Blue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If there is a way to configure that chip, its locked away in proprietary drivers. The ohms only affects the pins 1 and 2 in the OP. To my knowledge all samsung camera apps (GCam and Note2 tested) do not have the ability to record bluetooth or USB.
Adreaver said:
I'm considering adapting this mod to my specific needs. I'm looking to hardwire my lady's car for handsfree using google now. I have headphone audio in via a tape deck adapter. This mod would allow me to add an external mic mounted to the steering wheel or dashboard.
Is the mic functionality of this mod exclusive with audio output? Or could I keep the Red, Blue, and remaining copper wires and attach them to a separate 1/4" jack for audio out?
This would then give me a Y-Adapter, with one side for Mic In, and the other for Line Out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It would work well.. to activate Google Now you simply open the connection between pins 1 and 2 momentarily... however, i posted a schematic for the entire audio controls via USB last year. It uses the Built-in FSA chip present in all Samsung Galaxy devices. You bridge USB PINS 4-5 WITH A 410kohm resistor and then using a set of 10 switches and resistors you can seek, skip, pause, and several other actions. The schematic for a car-mode audio dock is located in the USB chip manual.
thats blody brilliant, from the looks of this, this mod would work for a wide spectrum of phones, I might atempt this with my evo 3d!
I cant help but think that this is one step closer to making the galaxy camera a full blown phone.
Adam,
I've found this on the net and thought it may be of interest to you.
These guys have worked on a similar project, but for the iPhone. On the wiki they stated that they couldn't get the android microphone to work, but I think you solved the problem.
I am unable to post links but the project is called BootlegMic, and the wiki is:
wiki dot openmusiclabs dot com slash wiki slash BootlegMic
Regards
Lutadore
Sent from my GT-P3100 using xda app-developers app
Edit: typos fixed
lutadore said:
Adam,
I've found this on the net and thought it may be of interest to you.
These guys have worked on a similar project, but for the iPhone. On the wiki they stayed that they couldn't get the android microphone to work, but I think you solved the problem.
I am unable to post links but the project is called BootlegMic, and the wiki is:
wiki dot openmusiclabs dot com slash wiki slash BootlegMic
Regards
Lutadore
Sent from my GT-P3100 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly this wont work for ifruit devices, due to the fruits closed licence system for 3-rd party products the headphone have to digitally ID themselves to the phone. Take and 4 pin ifruit headset and on the other side of the buttons board is a small ic, it get's it's 1.2v from the earphone signal and transmits digital secure key down the ground/mic wires. Also the fruit company decided to swap ground and mic wires so my ifruit 4 headphones make my note do some very odd things, but put my samsung note phones in the ifruit and all it does is cancel the call.
darkspr1te
AdamOutler said:
Getting things together
Everything you need to add external, directional audio is available at Radio Shack for less than $35 USD. Buy a better microphone with higher ohms for louder sound. You get what you pay for.
1. 1/4" Mono In-Line Audio Jack (2-pack) - RS Part Number 274-0340 - $5
2. a set of Samsung Earbuds with 4-pole connections
3. optional - microphone Unidirectional Dynamic Microphone - RS Part Number 3303038 - $19.99 - note the old one is 900ohms. The new one is 600 ohms.
4. optional - Biasing Resistor - you will need to do the following equation to determine the ohmage of resistor you require. $5
1100 ohms - (ohms of your microphone stated in the manual) = ohms of resistor required to turn on the microphone.
1100 ohms - 900 ohms = 200 ohms of resistance required
5. Epoxy and Superglue $5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the tips but I found that all external mics for iPhone work pretty well with Android devices.
As I mentioned in another thread, I have an irig mic cast and it works like a charm with both my old Galaxy Note (now sold) and with my Galaxy Note 2: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1795707
Also it's a condenser mic which should have better sensitivity than a dynamic mic, and it's got a socket to connect a set of earbuds or speakers.
I got it for $39: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/IK+Multimedia+-+iRig+Mic+Cast+Condenser+Microphone+for+Select+Apple%AE+Devices/4755719.p?id=1218522129796&skuId=4755719
There's also a bigger handheld version of the same mic:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/IK+Multimedia+-+iRig+Handheld+Condenser+Microphone+for+Select+Apple%26%23174%3B+Devices+-+Black/Silver/2938035.p
springer.music said:
Thanks for the tips but I found that all external mics for iPhone work pretty well with Android devices.
As I mentioned in another thread, I have an irig mic cast and it works like a charm with both my old Galaxy Note (now sold) and with my Galaxy Note 2: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1795707
Also it's a condenser mic which should have better sensitivity than a dynamic mic, and it's got a socket to connect a set of earbuds or speakers.
I got it for $39: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/IK+Multimedia+-+iRig+Mic+Cast+Condenser+Microphone+for+Select+Apple%AE+Devices/4755719.p?id=1218522129796&skuId=4755719
There's also a bigger handheld version of the same mic:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/IK+Multimedia+-+iRig+Handheld+Condenser+Microphone+for+Select+Apple%26%23174%3B+Devices+-+Black/Silver/2938035.p
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried an iRig. The guy at Radio Shack opened it up and we tried it. The volume was unusably low.
AdamOutler said:
I tried an iRig. The guy at Radio Shack opened it up and we tried it. The volume was unusably low.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The iRig as such is a guitar adapter, therefore I don't think it's suitable for mics:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11976281
iRig mic and iRig mic cast on the other hand are real condenser mics.
The recording volume on mine is loud and clear, it also has a switch to adjust the sensitivity from Low to High (a sort of volume booster).
Most likely the guy at radio shack made you try the wrong product...
springer.music said:
The iRig as such is a guitar adapter, therefore I don't think it's suitable for mics:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11976281
iRig mic and iRig mic cast on the other hand are real condenser mics.
The recording volume on mine is loud and clear, it also has a switch to adjust the sensitivity from Low to High (a sort of volume booster).
Most likely the guy at radio shack made you try the wrong product...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Audio inputs have 2 possible settings: mic or line. Mic uses a hardwired preamp to boost volume to usable levels, where line does not.
While most professional mixers have a switch for each input, since the iRig went for an iDiot-proof solution, you need to buy the correct adapter.
Maybe somebody more motivated than me could solder in a switch with an extra resistor that would allow for a mic/line toggle. Probably easier to get the mic version and disable the preamp for line rather than the other way around.
Edit: http://m.bestbuy.com/m/e/product/detail.jsp?skuId=4770587&pid=1218526674224&ev=prodView is an I rig mic preamp that enables phantom power. Won't allow an all in one solution for mic/line, but should be a hack free way to attach any mic you want.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda app-developers app
I want to do this, but only if it will work on a I9000. The I9000 mic is a piece of crap, so I'm wondering if making this and attach a external mic will solve anything...
Great guide, thanks. I want to do the same mod and create a 3.5mm 4 pole to 3.5mm mic and headphone splitter. I want to use to connect a pc headset with mic to blackberry curve 9220. Any idea on how i should go about finding the right impedance for mic and control?
Hello there,
My tablet has a wolfson WM8960 dac, will this hack compatible with it?
Wolfson WM8960 product page: http://www.wolfsonmicro.com/products/codecs/WM8960/
My tablet is ainol novo7 aurora 2
Zkaar said:
I want to do this, but only if it will work on a I9000. The I9000 mic is a piece of crap, so I'm wondering if making this and attach a external mic will solve anything...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just checked on a Samsung Captivate and it didn't work. It may work on yours though.
I have a 200 Ohm mic, so would this be too much of an impedance jump (given I add an 800 Ohm) for the resistor to have clear audio? Great work by the way, love following your techniques.
Hi,
I'm trying to find a way to connect an external 3.5mm mic to my i9100 using a variable resistor (eg a volume controller in this case) to add impedance so that various mics with their different impedances can be connected freely, rather than just adding an inline resistor of arbitrary value.
A splitter like like could work perhaps:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310720331050?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
I was just checking out this thread for a similar hack:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2072612&referrerid=0
and it says that impedance needs to be added in line with the mic so that the device recognises the mic as a mic (has to be above 1000 Ohms).
This has me wondering if, instead of adding a resistor in the cable that goes to the mic jack (or in the cable of the mic itself), it would be possible to use the splitting adapter above and plug a volume controller like the one below into the mic jack of the splitting adapter then the mic to the other end, like this:
http://1drv.ms/1c7ZwLY
Using the volume controller I can change the resistance between the tip connections of that cable, from 0 up to 1250 ohms, and then it jumps to infinity.
In the above photo the adapter is designed for nokias (OMTP) so the TRRS pinout is different to the i9100 (CTIA).
If I get a CTIA TRRS adapter, will I be abe to make this work using the volume controller?
This was fairly extensively covered in another thread.
My suggestion was just to capacitively couple the signal.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=49625339
Renate NST said:
This was fairly extensively covered in another thread.
My suggestion was just to capacitively couple the signal.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=49625339
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've read that thread and it doesn't say anything about using a variable resistor of some kind so that many mics can be made compatible, nor the general principle behind the idea (if it works etc).
Thanks for your suggestion about capacitive coupling, but at this point Id like to know if and how the idea I described could work. Your suggestion entails a mic mixer, an attenuator, and learning about capacitive coupling, and my idea just proposes using a volume controller, so Id like to know if the idea is possible before trying something more involved.
What kind of mic do you want to attach?
A regular computer electret mic with FET? Just connect it.
A low impedance dynamic mic? Use capacitive coupling.
A line level from something? Use capacitive coupling and an attentuator.
There's no reason to use a pot, you'd use a fixed resistor, but you don't even want that.
Renate NST said:
What kind of mic do you want to attach?
A regular computer electret mic with FET? Just connect it.
A low impedance dynamic mic? Use capacitive coupling.
A line level from something? Use capacitive coupling and an attentuator.
There's no reason to use a pot, you'd use a fixed resistor, but you don't even want that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd like to use dynamic mics, but not just one dynamic mic, like the above thread and mod assumes. My idea is to use a volume controller to control impedance added instead of using just a resistor with a fixed impedance, so that the impedance could be matched to any dynamic mic and thus made to work (as each dynamic mic has its own impedance). This is the reason I had for the idea of a variable resistor of some kind; so that one mod could be adjusted using the volume controller for whatever the impedance is of the mic which is to be attached, and thus the minimum impedance could be added in order to make the mic work. Thus, you're not just stuck with using the mic which the mod (the added resistor) is designed to work. I hope I have explained the idea clearly.
According to the responses, the MOD in the above thread seems to work, and it entails getting less components and doing less research than your idea of using capacitive coupling, so Id be interested to know why you recommend using capacitive coupling instead of the above resistor MOD. Have you found the resistor method not to work very well? In your view is capacitive coupling the better solution for some reason(s)?
The first point is that the mic presence/button press detection circuit actually works on resistance, not impedance.
A nominal 150 ohm impedance dynamic mic has a DC resistance much lower.
Throwing an ohmmeter on my Shure SM58 I get about 17 ohms.
Any other mic can't be that much different.
To build that out to greater than 1k you're going to need a 1k resistance.
There's no particular point in using something variable for fixed duty.
Depending on the bias circuit inside the cell phone, the lower the resistance of the mic, the lower the effective resistance of the bias circuit.
This will reduce the level of your signal.
The series resistance will also reduce the level.
It's best to have infinite load resistance and zero series resistance.
Also, that way you are not wasting 1-2 mA of bias current.
I did a test using a 470 µF electrolytic capacitor and a Shure SM58 mic.
470 µF is kind of humongous, but a few calculations on input impedance shows that you need a decent value for bass.
I was amazed to see that the level in the stock "Sound Recorder was only about 6 dB lower than using the internal mic.
I'm pretty sure that there was at least 10dB of AGC coming in somewhere.
Renate NST said:
The first point is that the mic presence/button press detection circuit actually works on resistance, not impedance.
A nominal 150 ohm impedance dynamic mic has a DC resistance much lower.
Throwing an ohmmeter on my Shure SM58 I get about 17 ohms.
Any other mic can't be that much different.
To build that out to greater than 1k you're going to need a 1k resistance..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, thanks....but now I'm lost. Your explanation seems to be at odds with the resistor mod explanation, where we are told that are options are:
1. Buy a microphone with over 1000 ohms of impedance.
2. Add some impedance.
Perhaps this is just a terminology problem though. The main problem for me, is that the formula given there to calculate the resistance / impedance (they seem to be used interchangeably in places )which needs to be added, in order to detect the mic, is:
"1100 ohms - (ohms of your microphone stated in the manual) = ohms of resistor required to turn on the microphone".
According to that post, we should get the value of the impedance/resistance from the value stated 'in the manual', which means would be using the value for the impedance stated in the manual, not actually measuring the DC resistance (which you have told us we should do, as it gives a very different value from the nominal impedance). Does this mean that the above post is wrong, and we should in fact be measuring the resistance using a multimeter, not just taking the value of the nominal impedance given in the manual?
No, really, just forget the resistor stuff.
A regular computer electret mic with FET? Just connect it.
A low impedance dynamic mic? Use capacitive coupling.
A line level from something? Use capacitive coupling and an attentuator.
Get an iRig Pre (which has a balanced input and a preamp).
Use a USB mic and USB host mode on your device.
Use a USB preamp/ADC/interface and USB host mode on your device.
Attached is a recording of quiet acoustic guitar using a Shure SM58, Alpha Lexicon and a Nook Touch.
Renate NST said:
No, really, just forget the resistor stuff.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your suggestion to use the 'capacitive coupling' method Renate NST, but unless using it offers some advantage over the resistor method, I cant see any reason for using it. The resistor method is less costly, and requires fewer components and less research ( I know nothing about capacitive coupling).
Can someone confirm which of the above is correct? In order to calculate the resistance/impedance which needs to be added, should we use the impedance of a mic stated the mic's manual (as explained in the resistor method post), or use a directly measured value for resistance using a Multimeter (as Renate NST says above)?
Best amp chips? -> Poor sound/audio quality AC7315 / HW8227L (Hactivol 9 inch 1G/16G)
Hi,
I tried to find for relevant threads, but couldn't really find anything, so starting my own.
Are their any comparisons or recommendations on which head unit to get or to look for which amplifier chip?
I just installed my Android head unit with a "AC7315" amplifier chip and I was underwhelmed with the sound quality.
At low/medium volume it is OK, but when you turn it up a little bit the sound gets bad. It's not really distorted, but it just becomes very flat. All the dynamic stuff goes and it becomes a boring sound.
When listening to dance/trance tracks I know very well I can just hear certain parts are "missing". They get lost in the "distortion".
infos:
Android: YT9217C_00005_V003_20190225_HIFI
system: Android 8.1 Go kenel 3.18.22
CAN Pro: Raise-Focus-V4.1-disconnect
FLASH: 16G
cpu: A7 1.3GHz x 4
Capacitance: 10000 UF
Amplifier: AC7315 MOS bile duct 45W X 4
display: 1024*600
MCU1: HW8227L-3.3-SWO-1.9
Is this common with these chinese head units? I have a Ford Fiesta (nov/13) and the standard/stock radio is a lot better. And that stock radio is not considered very good or anything, just a basic entry model.
Question is if there's anything to be gained by getting another Android Head unit? With a different amp chip? Or maybe one which has a 1-DIN or 2-DIN unit accompanying it. (Currently it's just the display with the amp/radio attached to the back of it).
It's this one: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32962174349.html
But from last year, so with a 7315 instead of the current 7388 mentioned on that page.
Thanks for helping out,
Opper
i have the same problem and i will try to change amp chip AC7315. but i dont know which it better then AC7315
hkn07 said:
i have the same problem and i will try to change amp chip AC7315. but i dont know which it better then AC7315
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
TDA7850 is what you'll want. But only changing the amp chip won't do it. You need to make changes to the surrounding electronics, build an active, temperature-controlled cooling system and an external power supply to run the amp at 17V.
You will also need to replace all the speaker cables in the ISO harness with 18 AWG ones.
Last but not least, you'll need to install and properly configure Viper4Android app.
If you invest about $100 into an active subwoofer - all of the above will make a huge difference in sound quality. I wouldn't try this with a passive sub.
Good luck gents.
ExtremeMOD said:
TDA7850 is what you'll want. But only changing the amp chip won't do it. You need to make changes to the surrounding electronics, build an active, temperature-controlled cooling system and an external power supply to run the amp at 17V.
You will also need to replace all the speaker cables in the ISO harness with 18 AWG ones.
Last but not least, you'll need to install and properly configure Viper4Android app.
If you invest about $100 into an active subwoofer - all of the above will make a huge difference in sound quality. I wouldn't try this with a passive sub.
Good luck gents.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Replacing the internal power amp and/or doing silly things like running the amp IC at Vmax, won't achieve what a low cost external power amp will.
Running thicker cables to factory speakers will lighten your wallet.
marchnz said:
Replacing the internal power amp and/or doing silly things like running the amp IC at Vmax, won't achieve what a low cost external power amp will.
Running thicker cables to factory speakers will lighten your wallet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After research we adjusted the recommended external voltage to 17V. The difference in audio quality was barely audible compared to running it st Vmax. Vmax is 18V for TDA7850.
As for external amp - yes, an easier fix but we'd highly recommend an RCA line driver in between the head unit and the external amp. Even the cheaper ones will make a difference.
If you go this route, remove the internal amp altogether as it's only causing issues like overheating.
As for speaker cables, check the current AWG. We've seen a good number of cars where factory speakers already run on 18 AWG cables. Others are 20 AWG or 22.
ExtremeMOD said:
After research we adjusted the recommended external voltage to 17V. The difference in audio quality was barely audible compared to running it st Vmax. Vmax is 18V for TDA7850.
As for external amp - yes, an easier fix but we'd highly recommend an RCA line driver in between the head unit and the external amp. Even the cheaper ones will make a difference.
If you go this route, remove the internal amp altogether as it's only causing issues like overheating.
As for speaker cables, check the current AWG. We've seen a good number of cars where factory speakers already run on 18 AWG cables. Others are 20 AWG or 22.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi.
I am also looking to remove my internal amp and do the RCA mod.
Are there any info on how to do this RCA mod?
Do you simply solder rca cables to Input 1 and 2 where the amp was and the shield to chassis?
I have a MTK8667 Android head unit.
alli2501 said:
Hi.
I am also looking to remove my internal amp and do the RCA mod.
Are there any info on how to do this RCA mod?
Do you simply solder rca cables to Input 1 and 2 where the amp was and the shield to chassis?
I have a MTK8667 Android head unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The lighter version of the mod requires removal of the internal amp. The more in-depth mod requires replacing a considerable number of components on the motherboard, like resistors, capacitors and potentially adding EMI shielding.
You do not need to solder cables at all for the lighter version of the mod.
The information on the advanced version of the mod can be found here: link.
I recently bought this android head unit and installed it in my 98 suburban. First, I didn't realize this radio was only 2 channel with no fade from front to read.
I also noticed that going from volume level 19 to 20, the volume spikes for a split second then returns to normal. This head unit was not as oud as I thought it was going to be and I wasn't expecting it to shatter the windows or anything...
So my questions are these:
1) is there a way I can enable fade through software? I have 4 wires coming out of the radio for fr fl rr and rl, but fade does absolutely nothing and I would like to enable this somehow. Maybe the channels are bridged inside the amp... But theseller tells me it is 4 ohm per speaker but it is only 2 channel without fade. I am not understanding something here and if someone could explain this to me I would greatly appreciate it.
2) it seems like it is being limited intentionally somehow and installing any audio booster just distorts the audio. Is there a way to increase the overall volume output?
Could they have installed some kind of hardware that limited the fade option and limited the audio levels intentionally (for buying the cheaper version) and could this be reversed somehow?
Any help would be appreciated