Database Users

XDA II car kit prob - sound fades out to nothing in 20 secs

Have a new car kit for my xda II - worked fine with my Pioneer CD-MP3 player for a while.
But now after 20 seconds into a call, incoming and outgoing, the sound fades out and then disappears completely.
I'd be glad of any advice if someone knows what's going on and how to fix it!
Many thanks
Conor

I had the same problem, check your ground wire.

?
Thanks mate!
Except I'm already out of my depth there - don't know what a ground wire is! Guess I should just take it to the technicians!
Did it resolve your problem, by the way?
Thanks
Conor

I thought it did solve the problem.... but I found it to be in the rj45 connector going to the cradle. It seems really loose... I wiggled it last tim the sound faded away and it came back ... I'll keep you posted as to what happens.

Finally more people with this issue.
i posted it some times allready without any answers.
I found that the problem raises after the carkit is wired for approx one month (could be coincidence).
My workaround is to take the carkit off the 12v for some secs (by taking out the connector with power in it). After that it works again.
Could very well be that with the pulling out/putting back in the ground wire gets seated again . . .
Will investigate this weekend!!!!

Yes - after a month or so of use!
Yes, mine worked fine for about a month too! Now it's useless. Cuts out after 20 seconds. Had it at a car electronics specialist's today and he reckons it's because the guy who installed it made it use my car's speakers rather than the little speaker that comes with it. He said to bring in the xda speaker box tomorrow and he'll work it from that. He reckons the carkit doesn't like to use the car's speakers.
Does that make sense to any of you guys? It's all greek to me!
Cheers
Conor

PS
PS - How exactly do you disconnect the power from the kit?

by pulling (and pressing in the latch that prevents it from falling out) out the connector that has the thick red-wire and the thick black-wire in it from the blackbox
BTW:
the thick black one is Ground
the thick red one is permanent 12V (be sure it supplies enough power/current, I asked my garage to get me a wire that supplies enough power)
the thin red one is switched 12V (you can choose to connect this one to permanent 12V to keep the carkit 'always on' or to connect it to a switched 12V car-wire to make the carkit switch off when the engine is off.
Which reminds me: The booklet of the carkit says the carkit will be powered 1 hour after switchingoff the engine. My carkit is off as soon as the engine is off (whether I am in a call or not . . .)

Thanks
Thanks a mill mate!
I'll let you know tomorrow how I get on with the technicians.
Cheers!

At the moment my carkit now works flawlessly for about 6 weeks.
It must have been a coincidence then that the issue happened two times after about 1 month of operation.
So . . .I guess it isnt a circuitry reset but just a bad connection (to ground I guess) which probably will be solved when disconnecting & connecting the plug.

audio jack problems

hi, i got an imate jamin and i need to replace the audio jack were the handsfree pug in, do anyone know where i can find to buy this part please or if anyone had the same problem how did you solve it.
thanks guys!!

Dodgy Audio jack
My audio jack plug works fine BUT when I unplug the headset, the phone stays in headset mode i.e. no sound from the speakers. If I plug/unplug the headset a load of times it eventually goes back to normal.
Any ideas. My solution is never to use the audio jack!

Audio Jack
I've had two M600's which have done exactly the same thing, both replaced by Orange, I've now upgraded to an M700 and unlocked the old M600 with a PAYG sim and guess what that one has now lost speaker sound so that three with the same fault and this M600 has never had a headset plugged in.
Has anyone else had similar problems?

i had the same problem othillo before it broke so be carefull cause your is about to brake too, i mailed imate and they said the only way to fix it is to send it to them in dubai.. not relally keen to send it there .. but till today i havent find ther part any where it seems that imate dont send out parts ... as soon as i find an alternative i will post it here..

Is this problem caused by the connector itself or is it something else? If it is the connector I can buy a new one at the local hardware store and modify it a little bit to make it fit in my S200, probably going to replace it with an 3,5mm jack if that is possible...

it is caused by the connector in fact htc the original makers of the prophet on there new models they changed it to a usb connector for the handsfree i changed my connector many times with regulas 2.5mm connector but the sound doesnt work properly. what it does it comes out with out bass then when you push the talk button on the handsfree sound comes out good. another thing i noticed is if when you insert the jack plug in the connector and you pull it out a little bit the sound comes better and the talk button works, i know for fact cause i tried it that its not from the handsfee cause i tried it on another device and work properly. the actuall connector for them is different from what you find to buy even if you plug in normal 2.5mm headphone sound doesnt come out right . if you manage to make it work and modify the connector please post it here so who got the same prob like me can have an idea how to fix it... thanks

Audio Jack
Here is what the problem is:
Audio jacks have what is called a normally closed contact. Each contact point actually has 2 parts. In the closed (no headset) the 2 part of the contact point make contact (shorts). This enables the signal to pass through the jack to the phone speaker. When you insert a headset, the 2 points open (break contact) and signal only goes to the headset.
I'm talking from experience as a sound engineer for over 30 years and this is usually the problem 99% of the time when it comes to these type of jacks. One of the contacts (usually the ground when no sound or mic at all) breaks or can no longer "spring" back. I haven't opened mine yet but fully expect this to be the problem.

audio jack
hi jsapper, i got what you saying and your absolutly right .. the thing i replaced mine 2 times now been done by a technician who fixes phones/pdas the thing with the connectors i replaced the device doesnt work properly sound comes out with out the bass and the talk button doesnt work .. i guess that the original part got some extra connectors or most probably the pins are switched around..
do you know if there is any special connectors for them...

I have a similar pb with my S200:
After running tomtom during 2000km installed on my motorbike w/ a 2.5mm headset, sound seems to no work anymore (neither back or ear speaker), I suppose that vibrations against jack connector are responsible.
With a bluetooth or wired headset sound works.
I have soft/hard reset, upgrade to last WM5 rom, upgrade to WM6 rom, I have tried to get in/out a 2.5mm jack connector without any result.
The ring facility is working (w/ or w/o 2.5mm jack connected), so I can say that the back speaker is working.
I am looking for a solution too...
nb: I have my back speaker + screen replaced one time after 2months.
Dean.

Have you try resolder the Connector?

it was to damaged to be resolded

Hi everybody,
I aswell have this kind of problem from time to time.My solution is quite simple.You have to use the original 2,5" jack with the 3 black "dividings".(sorry for my english) This solution reduced the problem dramatically.If the problem starts now, just plug it in and out a few times and it should work again.
Cheers

Phone Jack is a mechanical mess ...
Same prob, used the headset, rear speaker dead. I opened the prophet, unsoldered the jack and found it misconstructed.
The body of the jack is plastic and not capable to withstand the forces of a plugged in headset.
There are two integrated switches - which - when headset is unplugged are closed and deliver the signal to the speaker. one of the switches does not close anymore when the headset is unplugged. My first solution was to unsolder the jack and bridge the contacts 2 and 4 as welll as 3 and 5.
The rear speaker functions now and I can use the phone.
Next step will be to find a jack solution on the market to finally solve the problem. I will keep you informed!

thanks buzzi will be looking in here... for your post!

i had the same problem with my audio jack and i searched many forums for a solution. the only thing i can say: if you really want to use it and you want go back in normal mode after unplugging, take a little needle. if you look at the audio jack (USB is left to it) you have to stick the needle in the right side of the jack somewhere an search for a little contact (the first time hard to find, the second time easy) and try to push it a bit to the left. so the prophet goes back in normal mode. it sucks but i didnt find another solution...except for buying a bluetooth headset and use software to hear music over that (for mono headsets u can use a programm calles BTAudioToggel, but make sure u use the Toggle software, because there is another one called BTAudio, it sucks because it costs money and doesn't work for me so well)
Greetz

Friends,
My prophet has exactly the same symptoms. However, I opened up the phone and carefully examined the jack. It is crap, sure, but at least on my phone it is not at fault. I tested with a continuity meter and the contact mechanism was working perfectly. Those who tried this measure without success read the following thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=281331
In my case it is definitely a problem with the speaker, and it seems to be eqaully common. It seems that there is more than one problem dogging the speaker of ths model.

mine's got the small contact switch problem.
it started last night! SO Annoying. Plugging a friend's original 2.5mm adapter in and out solved it temporarily. Then it went again! I have only got a 3rd party 2.5mm plug, and it took me ages to trip the small switch back with that. I have now got a BT headset on order.
Can't wait for the newer design HTC headphone adapter as I have had this problem with 5 different devices! (Tanager, Typhoon, Hurricane, Tornado and now Prophet.)

would agree with hybrid the needle trick fixed it ran media player so i could tell when it was working again. it was mentioned before that using the 2.5mm adaptor with ibky 2 rings as opposed to 3 causes this problem. I can identify with this as i have been using my dopod h/free with no problems for months i use the adaptor to plug in my headphones one time and get a eap of issues!
i will adapt a h/free to plug in some nicer headphones!
Can i use the USB connection as a handsfree port on my prophet?
Cheers

Hi, Prophet's USB is not a USB hub and thus not usable for connecting external devices - only way is bluetooth ...

thanks buzzi

[Q] Built-in mic muted when using TSR headphone

Hello,
when I plug-in my headphones (3.5" jack, 3pin TRS connector, no microphone) the phone thinks they have a mic and the built-in microphone is disabled and I cannot make calls (I could, but the other person would not hear my voice).
I did check with ddms and I've noticed that android does not detect any differences between TRS 3-pin connectors (w/o mic) and TRRS 4-pin ones (w/mic, like the one that ships with the phone):
Code:
08-12 17:58:59.340: VERBOSE/HeadsetObserver(531): Intent.ACTION_HEADSET_PLUG: state: 1 name: Headset mic: 1
so I though it could be a hardware limitation/issue or a kernel one. The status icon (Gingerbread 2.3.4) always shows a headset with a tiny mic, whether I connect a headset with mic or just standard headphones.
My question is: does this problem appear only on my blade (i.e. is my blade broken?) or is it a "general" issue present in all blades?
thank you for your help

slashdotted said:
My question is: does this problem appear only on my blade (i.e. is my blade broken?) or is it a "general" issue present in all blades?
thank you for your help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not just your Blade. I'm running stock 2.2 (got it today) and while there's no mic on the icon, the phone always disables the built-in mic even when I plug in regular headphones. Sound recorder and voice calls are both affected.
Have you found a workaround? I'd be OK without detection if the phone always assumed the attached headset doesn't have a mic and keeps the built-in one enabled.

Same here. Im on CM7 and even if i plug in the 3.5mm (3pin) headphones, the phone mic gets disabled and in the status bar i can see the icon of headset (no matter when i use headset or headphones).
Keeping this aside, i had a more worst problem. If i plugin any headphones or headset other than the stock one provided with phone, they wont fit in the socket correctly. Even if i push them tightly into the socket (and left) , they will come out by 1 or 2 mm making the headphones unusable (what happens is only one ear phone works). And both earphones work as long as i keep it pressed and held tightly into the socket. But i cant hold it all the time i was hearing to the music right...? WTF... And i figured out why this happens. This is due to the back cover which was designed foolishly. The back cover of phone has a tiny hole for headset jack which prevents the other 3.5mm headphones to completely enter into it (this is sure in my case). If i remove the back cover and plugin 3.5 headphones they will be fit completely without any problem (even though here i cant use the phone mic). Another foolish design of the back cover is the exposure of the power switch making it more vulnerable to damage.
I had an idea to cut out the extra plastic thing at the headset hole of back cover to make it usable with 3.5mm headphones, but i fear i would loose warranty. Will i loose the warranty if i do so..?
After watching all these i think the headset jack of our phone is not correct. It might be having difference in the connector lengths. Don't wanna blame the rom/kernel for this. After all those were just my opinions.

Exactly the same happens on my blade using default 2.1 rom that came with the phone.
As for the above post, perhaps you should see if you can get a new back cover? Its only yours having that issue
Sent from my ZTE BLADE using XDA App

Jack connector problem
bharat_xda19 said:
Keeping this aside, i had a more worst problem. If i plugin any headphones or headset other than the stock one provided with phone, they wont fit in the socket correctly. Even if i push them tightly into the socket (and left) , they will come out by 1 or 2 mm making the headphones unusable (what happens is only one ear phone works). And both earphones work as long as i keep it pressed and held tightly into the socket. But i cant hold it all the time i was hearing to the music right...? WTF... And i figured out why this happens. This is due to the back cover which was designed foolishly. The back cover of phone has a tiny hole for headset jack which prevents the other 3.5mm headphones to completely enter into it (this is sure in my case). If i remove the back cover and plugin 3.5 headphones they will be fit completely without any problem (even though here i cant use the phone mic). Another foolish design of the back cover is the exposure of the power switch making it more vulnerable to damage.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have exactly the same problem with some jacks but not all (my headset from Nokia fits in well, a retractable jack I've bought for my car fits almost well (it never drops by itself but if you touch it to much, it does)).
The biggest problem I have is that some applications ("music" and "listen") start playing when the faulty contact happens, even if I was listening for music in another application (jamendo) this is really a pain because jamendo keeps playing music and a podcast starts to play in "listen". Is there a way to tell those applications not to react to the headset being plugged/unplugged ? (I guess the faulty contact may be acting like a remote control press or something...)
Thanks for your ideas
Edit : it seems related to this : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=625731 and to this http://android.modaco.com/topic/301335-the-headphone-bug/ and it seems that this application : https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.idunnolol.headsetblocker&hl=fr can be used to configure the behavior. I'll try it tonight and tell if it solved the problem.

slashdotted said:
Hello,
when I plug-in my headphones (3.5" jack, 3pin TRS connector, no microphone) the phone thinks they have a mic and the built-in microphone is disabled and I cannot make calls (I could, but the other person would not hear my voice).
I did check with ddms and I've noticed that android does not detect any differences between TRS 3-pin connectors (w/o mic) and TRRS 4-pin ones (w/mic, like the one that ships with the phone):
Code:
08-12 17:58:59.340: VERBOSE/HeadsetObserver(531): Intent.ACTION_HEADSET_PLUG: state: 1 name: Headset mic: 1
so I though it could be a hardware limitation/issue or a kernel one. The status icon (Gingerbread 2.3.4) always shows a headset with a tiny mic, whether I connect a headset with mic or just standard headphones.
My question is: does this problem appear only on my blade (i.e. is my blade broken?) or is it a "general" issue present in all blades?
thank you for your help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does any body found the answer/solution of this????
Sent from my Inspire 4G using Tapatalk

External Mic on Galaxy Devices

Hey guys, I worked on adding external microphone features to my device for a dog-gone long time yesterday... about 5 hours. Elite Recognized Developer Rebellos searched the code and we figured out that the device wouldn't recognize my mic because it's ohms are too low. The WolfsonMicro chip uses any value below 1000 ohms to signify button presses. Above 1000 ohms it signifies a microphone. My microphone is a 900 ohm microphone, so in all actuality, it's pretty high considering most are around 100-500 ohms. However, Rebellos and I managed to hack through it. I wanted to share this method.
My target device is a Galaxy Camera, but Samsung has used WolfsonMicro chips in their devices for a long time. This also works on the Galaxy Note 2 so Its logical to assume it will work on others.
Here's the finished solution. A Samsung 4-pole to 1/4" Mic adapter with a 200ohm resistor inline.
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Introduction
The Galaxy Camera and Note2 require over 1000 ohms of resistance in order to recognize that a microphone is connected to it. So, there's two ways to do this.
1. Buy a microphone with over 1000 ohms of impedance.
2. Add some impedance.
Now, adding impedance will reduce the volume of the microphone, but that's not an entirely huge issue as adjusting volume is not a big deal. However, adding a resistor will slightly distort the waveform but even with this slight distortion it's not going to destroy the sound quality because it's a very slight ripple which in most cases will not affect the compressed recording quality.
Getting things together
Everything you need to add external, directional audio is available at Radio Shack for less than $35 USD. Buy a better microphone with higher ohms for louder sound. You get what you pay for.
1. 1/4" Mono In-Line Audio Jack (2-pack) - RS Part Number 274-0340 - $5
2. a set of Samsung Earbuds with 4-pole connections
3. optional - microphone Unidirectional Dynamic Microphone - RS Part Number 3303038 - $19.99 - note the old one is 900ohms. The new one is 600 ohms.
4. optional - Biasing Resistor - you will need to do the following equation to determine the ohmage of resistor you require. $5
1100 ohms - (ohms of your microphone stated in the manual) = ohms of resistor required to turn on the microphone.
1100 ohms - 900 ohms = 200 ohms of resistance required
5. Epoxy and Superglue $5
Building the adapter
Building the adapter is quite simple Samsung uses 7 wires in their headphones. Bare wire is not connected to anything. 3 are copper colored in clear shields there is a Blue or Green, Red and White as well. The 3 copper are the common leads The White is the microphone.
Cut the connector off the headphone, leaving 3 inches of the cable.
Cut all of the wires except for one Copper and the White wire.
Strip and tin the Copper and White wires.
Solder the copper wire to one side of the 1/4" Mono In-Line Audio Jack
*Optionally* If required to exceed 1100ohms solder the resistor to the white wire
Attatch the white wire (with resistor if used) to the center post of the 1/4" Mono In-Line Audio Jack.
At this point you can verify your setup works.
superglue the wire to hold it in place for the next step
Mix up your epoxy and apply to the resistor, wire and jack connections in a way to support the following:
1. to keep the wires from touching anything
2. to prevent physical strain on the electrical connections
You'll want to ensure that the epoxy is a light coat which totally surrounds the wire, resistor and large metal pads on the 1/4" audio jack. But don't let it go down inside the jack because it can prevent the microphone from connecting properly.
slide the 1/4" jack cover down over the epoxy after it's done drying.
It should look something like this:
Here's a video showing how it works with my cheap microphone. It works super well to remove almost all noise from my recordings and just needs about a 6db gain and bass-boost adjustment in post-processing for accurate sound reproduction. This could be and will be corrected with a better mic in the future.

Probably could build a preamp circuit using an op-amp to handle the impedance shift without losing volume.

FYI - Speech Filter
http://www.circuit-finder.com/categories/audio/audio-filter/283/speech-filter
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Does 1000 ohms apply to USB driven mics (somehow)? Or is it only a matter of drivers? To be specific I'm referring to the Snowball from Blue.

I'm considering adapting this mod to my specific needs. I'm looking to hardwire my lady's car for handsfree using google now. I have headphone audio in via a tape deck adapter. This mod would allow me to add an external mic mounted to the steering wheel or dashboard.
Is the mic functionality of this mod exclusive with audio output? Or could I keep the Red, Blue, and remaining copper wires and attach them to a separate 1/4" jack for audio out?
This would then give me a Y-Adapter, with one side for Mic In, and the other for Line Out.

QNBT said:
Does 1000 ohms apply to USB driven mics (somehow)? Or is it only a matter of drivers? To be specific I'm referring to the Snowball from Blue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If there is a way to configure that chip, its locked away in proprietary drivers. The ohms only affects the pins 1 and 2 in the OP. To my knowledge all samsung camera apps (GCam and Note2 tested) do not have the ability to record bluetooth or USB.

Adreaver said:
I'm considering adapting this mod to my specific needs. I'm looking to hardwire my lady's car for handsfree using google now. I have headphone audio in via a tape deck adapter. This mod would allow me to add an external mic mounted to the steering wheel or dashboard.
Is the mic functionality of this mod exclusive with audio output? Or could I keep the Red, Blue, and remaining copper wires and attach them to a separate 1/4" jack for audio out?
This would then give me a Y-Adapter, with one side for Mic In, and the other for Line Out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It would work well.. to activate Google Now you simply open the connection between pins 1 and 2 momentarily... however, i posted a schematic for the entire audio controls via USB last year. It uses the Built-in FSA chip present in all Samsung Galaxy devices. You bridge USB PINS 4-5 WITH A 410kohm resistor and then using a set of 10 switches and resistors you can seek, skip, pause, and several other actions. The schematic for a car-mode audio dock is located in the USB chip manual.

thats blody brilliant, from the looks of this, this mod would work for a wide spectrum of phones, I might atempt this with my evo 3d!

I cant help but think that this is one step closer to making the galaxy camera a full blown phone.

Adam,
I've found this on the net and thought it may be of interest to you.
These guys have worked on a similar project, but for the iPhone. On the wiki they stated that they couldn't get the android microphone to work, but I think you solved the problem.
I am unable to post links but the project is called BootlegMic, and the wiki is:
wiki dot openmusiclabs dot com slash wiki slash BootlegMic
Regards
Lutadore
Sent from my GT-P3100 using xda app-developers app
Edit: typos fixed

lutadore said:
Adam,
I've found this on the net and thought it may be of interest to you.
These guys have worked on a similar project, but for the iPhone. On the wiki they stayed that they couldn't get the android microphone to work, but I think you solved the problem.
I am unable to post links but the project is called BootlegMic, and the wiki is:
wiki dot openmusiclabs dot com slash wiki slash BootlegMic
Regards
Lutadore
Sent from my GT-P3100 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly this wont work for ifruit devices, due to the fruits closed licence system for 3-rd party products the headphone have to digitally ID themselves to the phone. Take and 4 pin ifruit headset and on the other side of the buttons board is a small ic, it get's it's 1.2v from the earphone signal and transmits digital secure key down the ground/mic wires. Also the fruit company decided to swap ground and mic wires so my ifruit 4 headphones make my note do some very odd things, but put my samsung note phones in the ifruit and all it does is cancel the call.
darkspr1te

AdamOutler said:
Getting things together
Everything you need to add external, directional audio is available at Radio Shack for less than $35 USD. Buy a better microphone with higher ohms for louder sound. You get what you pay for.
1. 1/4" Mono In-Line Audio Jack (2-pack) - RS Part Number 274-0340 - $5
2. a set of Samsung Earbuds with 4-pole connections
3. optional - microphone Unidirectional Dynamic Microphone - RS Part Number 3303038 - $19.99 - note the old one is 900ohms. The new one is 600 ohms.
4. optional - Biasing Resistor - you will need to do the following equation to determine the ohmage of resistor you require. $5
1100 ohms - (ohms of your microphone stated in the manual) = ohms of resistor required to turn on the microphone.
1100 ohms - 900 ohms = 200 ohms of resistance required
5. Epoxy and Superglue $5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the tips but I found that all external mics for iPhone work pretty well with Android devices.
As I mentioned in another thread, I have an irig mic cast and it works like a charm with both my old Galaxy Note (now sold) and with my Galaxy Note 2: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1795707
Also it's a condenser mic which should have better sensitivity than a dynamic mic, and it's got a socket to connect a set of earbuds or speakers.
I got it for $39: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/IK+Multimedia+-+iRig+Mic+Cast+Condenser+Microphone+for+Select+Apple%AE+Devices/4755719.p?id=1218522129796&skuId=4755719
There's also a bigger handheld version of the same mic:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/IK+Multimedia+-+iRig+Handheld+Condenser+Microphone+for+Select+Apple%26%23174%3B+Devices+-+Black/Silver/2938035.p

springer.music said:
Thanks for the tips but I found that all external mics for iPhone work pretty well with Android devices.
As I mentioned in another thread, I have an irig mic cast and it works like a charm with both my old Galaxy Note (now sold) and with my Galaxy Note 2: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1795707
Also it's a condenser mic which should have better sensitivity than a dynamic mic, and it's got a socket to connect a set of earbuds or speakers.
I got it for $39: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/IK+Multimedia+-+iRig+Mic+Cast+Condenser+Microphone+for+Select+Apple%AE+Devices/4755719.p?id=1218522129796&skuId=4755719
There's also a bigger handheld version of the same mic:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/IK+Multimedia+-+iRig+Handheld+Condenser+Microphone+for+Select+Apple%26%23174%3B+Devices+-+Black/Silver/2938035.p
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried an iRig. The guy at Radio Shack opened it up and we tried it. The volume was unusably low.

AdamOutler said:
I tried an iRig. The guy at Radio Shack opened it up and we tried it. The volume was unusably low.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The iRig as such is a guitar adapter, therefore I don't think it's suitable for mics:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11976281
iRig mic and iRig mic cast on the other hand are real condenser mics.
The recording volume on mine is loud and clear, it also has a switch to adjust the sensitivity from Low to High (a sort of volume booster).
Most likely the guy at radio shack made you try the wrong product...

springer.music said:
The iRig as such is a guitar adapter, therefore I don't think it's suitable for mics:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11976281
iRig mic and iRig mic cast on the other hand are real condenser mics.
The recording volume on mine is loud and clear, it also has a switch to adjust the sensitivity from Low to High (a sort of volume booster).
Most likely the guy at radio shack made you try the wrong product...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Audio inputs have 2 possible settings: mic or line. Mic uses a hardwired preamp to boost volume to usable levels, where line does not.
While most professional mixers have a switch for each input, since the iRig went for an iDiot-proof solution, you need to buy the correct adapter.
Maybe somebody more motivated than me could solder in a switch with an extra resistor that would allow for a mic/line toggle. Probably easier to get the mic version and disable the preamp for line rather than the other way around.
Edit: http://m.bestbuy.com/m/e/product/detail.jsp?skuId=4770587&pid=1218526674224&ev=prodView is an I rig mic preamp that enables phantom power. Won't allow an all in one solution for mic/line, but should be a hack free way to attach any mic you want.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda app-developers app

I want to do this, but only if it will work on a I9000. The I9000 mic is a piece of crap, so I'm wondering if making this and attach a external mic will solve anything...

Great guide, thanks. I want to do the same mod and create a 3.5mm 4 pole to 3.5mm mic and headphone splitter. I want to use to connect a pc headset with mic to blackberry curve 9220. Any idea on how i should go about finding the right impedance for mic and control?

Hello there,
My tablet has a wolfson WM8960 dac, will this hack compatible with it?
Wolfson WM8960 product page: http://www.wolfsonmicro.com/products/codecs/WM8960/
My tablet is ainol novo7 aurora 2

Zkaar said:
I want to do this, but only if it will work on a I9000. The I9000 mic is a piece of crap, so I'm wondering if making this and attach a external mic will solve anything...
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I just checked on a Samsung Captivate and it didn't work. It may work on yours though.

I have a 200 Ohm mic, so would this be too much of an impedance jump (given I add an 800 Ohm) for the resistor to have clear audio? Great work by the way, love following your techniques.

[DIY] Convert CTIA headset to earphone with 1cm wire [Xperia 2011/OMTP connectors]

Note: TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, I won't be responsible for your damage or lost of the phone because you just short-circuited your phone or what so ever, I didn't point a gun on your head and demand you to do it I'd just explored this method randomly and pure randomness, nothing else, and a brave heart maybe btw, i can't imagine how to make the phone short-circuit with just bridged the gnd and mic plate of the headset.
Since our phone are stuck in OMTP connectors forever and where newer phones/tablets/phablets are now having CTIA connectors and producing more and more CTIA standard headset everywhere. It is hard to find a OMTP standard headset nowadays (except if you want to buy Nokia phones, i mean asha series, not lumia, asha series usually implement OMTP standard connectors and headset while Lumia-s having CTIA, but who would want to buy a phone just for a working OMTP headsets, seriously... ). When you connected a wrong standard headset to your phone, you will know whats went wrong, like the sound lose the bass and vocal, mic doesn't work, handfree button doesn't work and so on...
And if good quality earphone (additional condition that's you are an audiopile, sounds quality means everything to you) out there just cost too much for you but you have a good quality CTIA headsets (eg: Samsung, Sony OEM headsets) plus you don't want to do the soldering work to change CTIA to OMTP by exchange mic and gnd cable.
Ladies and gentlemen, allow me to introduce to you a way to convert your CTIA headset to a working earphone with only 1 piece of 1cm wire (when i say earphone, of course it mean the mic will not be able to function. Why? good question, continue reading)
HOW to DIY:
1. try to grab any wire in your house, or just cut out a cable from any of the malfunctioned wire keyboard or mouse, then cut out 1cm of copper wire from the cable, you may make extra 1cm or 2 to do the hanging work.
2. use a pliers to "apply pressure" on 1 side of the tip to make it thin just like a paper, make sure the thin wire length must not exceed about 0.5cm, the sole idea of this DIY is make a bridge to connect gnd and mic wire to cheat the phone that you just connected a earphone, and this is why the mic function will be gone.
3. then bend the thin wire tip to 90 degree, or any degree to suit you on how to hang that wire on the phone's headset connector. Again, make sure your thin wire length must not exceed 0.5cm!!!
4. insert the thin wire tip into the headset connector, not middle of course, i mean "stick to the wall"
5. the remaining wire is up to you on how to hang the wire but the thin wire must be "stick to the wall" of the headset connector. Use paper tape or glue or whatever you can get to stick the wire with your phone, don't let loose. Use your imagination.
6. then try connect your CTIA headset to your phone and play some music, check for sound quality, Is it the same sound quality that you get with other newer phone. If you found it hard to insert the headset jack, "apply more pressure" on the thin wire tip, make it thinner then test again.
7. if it works, congrats, you just made it there!!!
** if you are unsure how it does, check the picture or leave your comment(not pm), share what is not being clear in this post, allow me to refine the details of the procedure, XDA forum is all about sharing ideas....
this same procedure could convert OMTP headset to normal earphone in CTIA standards connectors too (theoretically). OR should I name it universal CTIA/OMTP to earphone converter trick?
ps: if you have a better vocabulary to replace "apply pressure" please suggest me or you found this will cause catastrophic damage on our phone, please do notice me about it!
info: i made this work on my Xperia Neo and China made tablet (RK29xx tabs) which also using OMTP connectors and i'm using Lenovo and Samsung OEM headset to test on both of them.
what is CTIA/OMTP? what are the difference between them? read: Phone_connector

This works for my Xperia NEO! Thenks Man :good: