Hello eveyone. I'm looking for a new 7" universal Android head unit. I've narrowed it down to the non-physical button model because I like the flush look. I had it narrowed down to the Atoto A6 until I found the XDA forum. I've read that the Dasaita may have a little better support and that the HA2100-V600 may be a little brighter. And now, I've found the Dasaita with 4GB of RAM. I Think this could be useful in the future.
I've spend hours reading all 84 pages of the MCU update forum that has spanned over the past 7 to 9 months. During that period, there were several reports of problems with the Dasaita Blue tooth, GPS and other things. However, the people still seem to stand behind their brand. Are the problems with the Dasaita as bad as it sounds, or is it just a few people having these problems?
I like the idea of the Atoto A6 having Dual Bluetooth. This will allow me to Pair with my phone and the OBDII adapter at the same time. None of the other head units mention this. I keep reading that these units are basically the same, so it seems that they all should be able to do this. But I don't know if they do. Any one have a Dasaita HA2100 that can verify it? Could it be an Android 7.1 feature? The Atoto also has the external wireless antenna and multiple USB outlets, one of which is 2 amp for quick phone charging.
If anyone has either of these models and wants to elaborate on what they like about it (or don't like), I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks for your help.
The Atoto is one of the few that uses a MediaTek SoC instead of a Rockchip or Intel Sofia. That means for right now, there's no community support.
I've got the 2gb touch-only version, had it since just before Christmas. It's reasonably responsive (think 2012-2013 high-end tablet/phone responsive), it gets really bright (I'm in Florida with a sunroof and non-tinted windows, never had a problem seeing the screen), colors are a bit muted but viewing angles are good. 2 second boot is true, it comes alive very fast, backup camera activates quickly.
Dual BT was the main selling point for me, and it works as advertised, phone is paired for phone/contacts/media, OBD2 is paired, and phone is can paired again for BT tethering. BT tethering works decent, there's plenty of bandwidth for running Maps/Waze while streaming Spotify, but you'll of course want to switch back to WiFi tethering/hotspot for video streaming or even installing apps from the Play Store.
The microSD card slot works well, I've use a NTFS formatted 128gb SanDisk with no issues. The "fast charge" USB connector puts out just under 2a, so it does charge quicker than most, but still no comparison to an QC 2, 3, or Power Delivery charger. That same USB port is the only USB 2.0 port, the other two USB ports (on one dongle) are USB 1.1
The combination of on-device and external microphones seems to work well enough for voice activation and calling (my callers say I sound fine, no worse than any other speakerphone). Google Assistant does NOT work on this device (or just about any tablet for that matter), but Google Now/Voice Search does work, along with OK Google voice detection. (and OK Waze detection if you're Wazing).
I've only had one crash, and that may have been a launcher problem, or a Spotify problem as much as an Atoto problem.
Audio quality is good, with a half-decent EQ, fader/balance controls, loudness. Power is lacking, so you'll want to run this through an amp.
Steering wheel interface works (though I needed both a PAC CANBUS harness/box, and at PAC SW-1 RC to make them work). Pro-tip if you go with the PAC stuff, program the SW-1 as a Pioneer, and then use the Kenwood wire (instead of the 3.5mm plug) to Key + on the A6. There's also no provision on the A6 for dual button mapping, you get one function per button (some units allow for double press or long press for more options).
Wifi reception is solid, the included remote antenna is the key to this (mine is mounted on the edge of my windshield, partially tucked under the headliner, and practically invisible.
GPS reception is also very good, I almost always get 10+ satellites and quick locks.
So far, so good.
But...the A6 has three big problems.
The first is that the distance between the outer glass screen with the touch layer, and the actual LCD is pretty wide, and that causes parallax issues, where you touch on the glass doesn't match up with the screen, especially annoying with small buttons and hamburger menus. The physical button version doesn't seem to have this issue, because the touch screen and the LCD are closer (at the cost of having the whole display inset and not flush.). If I had to do it over, I'd opt for the PB model.
The second issue is that there's always some electronic noise heard when the unit is powered up, similar to putting a mobile phone next to speakers, and it varies with CPU load and Wifi activity. You don't notice it when music is playing but if there's a pause (or you pause), there it is again. Doesn't seem to be affected by volume settings though.
The last major issue (and there's maybe a fix coming for this in the next firmware update from Atoto) is that when the device has been off for more than oh, ten minutes, when it comes back on, it automatically loads the AM/FM tuner and plays. Which is annoying enough on its own (the FM tuner app is hideous, for one thing), but for some reason, the volume from the tuner is 2x the volume of MP3, internet streaming, or BT streaming music, so if you were rocking out even just a little when you parked the car, when you get back, your eardrums will be bleeding from the FM blast. So far, nobody has figured a way to disable the FM app, it's part of the system, and tied to the MCU.
Overall, I'm not unhappy with the A6, since I went into it knowing that all the Chindroid head units are flawed...but for $179 (Lightning deal), I figured it was worth the risk.
Croak said:
The Atoto is one of the few that uses a MediaTek SoC instead of a Rockchip or Intel Sofia. That means for right now, there's no community support.
I've got the 2gb touch-only version, had it since just before Christmas. It's reasonably responsive (think 2012-2013 high-end tablet/phone responsive), it gets really bright (I'm in Florida with a sunroof and non-tinted windows, never had a problem seeing the screen), colors are a bit muted but viewing angles are good. 2 second boot is true, it comes alive very fast, backup camera activates quickly.
Dual BT was the main selling point for me, and it works as advertised, phone is paired for phone/contacts/media, OBD2 is paired, and phone is can paired again for BT tethering. BT tethering works decent, there's plenty of bandwidth for running Maps/Waze while streaming Spotify, but you'll of course want to switch back to WiFi tethering/hotspot for video streaming or even installing apps from the Play Store.
The microSD card slot works well, I've use a NTFS formatted 128gb SanDisk with no issues. The "fast charge" USB connector puts out just under 2a, so it does charge quicker than most, but still no comparison to an QC 2, 3, or Power Delivery charger. That same USB port is the only USB 2.0 port, the other two USB ports (on one dongle) are USB 1.1
The combination of on-device and external microphones seems to work well enough for voice activation and calling (my callers say I sound fine, no worse than any other speakerphone). Google Assistant does NOT work on this device (or just about any tablet for that matter), but Google Now/Voice Search does work, along with OK Google voice detection. (and OK Waze detection if you're Wazing).
I've only had one crash, and that may have been a launcher problem, or a Spotify problem as much as an Atoto problem.
Audio quality is good, with a half-decent EQ, fader/balance controls, loudness. Power is lacking, so you'll want to run this through an amp.
Steering wheel interface works (though I needed both a PAC CANBUS harness/box, and at PAC SW-1 RC to make them work). Pro-tip if you go with the PAC stuff, program the SW-1 as a Pioneer, and then use the Kenwood wire (instead of the 3.5mm plug) to Key + on the A6. There's also no provision on the A6 for dual button mapping, you get one function per button (some units allow for double press or long press for more options).
Wifi reception is solid, the included remote antenna is the key to this (mine is mounted on the edge of my windshield, partially tucked under the headliner, and practically invisible.
GPS reception is also very good, I almost always get 10+ satellites and quick locks.
So far, so good.
But...the A6 has three big problems.
The first is that the distance between the outer glass screen with the touch layer, and the actual LCD is pretty wide, and that causes parallax issues, where you touch on the glass doesn't match up with the screen, especially annoying with small buttons and hamburger menus. The physical button version doesn't seem to have this issue, because the touch screen and the LCD are closer (at the cost of having the whole display inset and not flush.). If I had to do it over, I'd opt for the PB model.
The second issue is that there's always some electronic noise heard when the unit is powered up, similar to putting a mobile phone next to speakers, and it varies with CPU load and Wifi activity. You don't notice it when music is playing but if there's a pause (or you pause), there it is again. Doesn't seem to be affected by volume settings though.
The last major issue (and there's maybe a fix coming for this in the next firmware update from Atoto) is that when the device has been off for more than oh, ten minutes, when it comes back on, it automatically loads the AM/FM tuner and plays. Which is annoying enough on its own (the FM tuner app is hideous, for one thing), but for some reason, the volume from the tuner is 2x the volume of MP3, internet streaming, or BT streaming music, so if you were rocking out even just a little when you parked the car, when you get back, your eardrums will be bleeding from the FM blast. So far, nobody has figured a way to disable the FM app, it's part of the system, and tied to the MCU.
Overall, I'm not unhappy with the A6, since I went into it knowing that all the Chindroid head units are flawed...but for $179 (Lightning deal), I figured it was worth the risk.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, that is exactly the kind of information I was looking for. I had read about the radio coming on with each startup. I'm glad you said something about the touchscreen. The flush screen was one of the selling points for me, but if the actual lcd is still recessed, I may go for the PB. Prices have skyrocketed since just before Christmas.
On the Dasaita, I had asked if the 4GB HA2100-V600 they have on Aliexpress would be updated to Android 7.1 (it's currently Android 6.0). They told me that unit would not be able to run Android 7.1 because of hardware incompatibility issues. He said they had an Android 8.0 unit with 4GB RAM if I wanted to pay the Price. I didn't even ask how much because the 6.0 unit was already at the upper price range I want to spend for one of these. However, Hot Audio is saying they are working on a 8.0 upgrade for the HA2100 and it should be out any time now. Who Do I Believe? I feel pretty sure the android 6.0 unit will be upgraded since there are several other brands already running 7.1. Anybody?
Thing about the flush screen/body is that most car kits end up making the whole thing recessed anyway. PB version wouldn't have looked any worse, and it would have operated a bit better. Also, turns out the PB model is a much more recent hardware revision, released in November, whereas the touch-only model came out almost six months earlier.
Here's a shot of mine using a Schoshe double-din mounting kit.
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Does the Dasaita HA2100 have dual BT? I'm in the same position as OP - I currently have a Joying 2GB unit and it's a pain to BT tether (still not reliable after root). The Atoto A6 blog says there is a pro version coming by Feb 2018 end with "hand gestures recognition control", whatever that means. http://www.myatoto.com/index.php?m=...FjAFegQIBRAB&usg=AOvVaw0vQxQJxnoYd_2loGxiT1vf
Till then I'm looking at the Atoto A6 a61721p.
Great ATOTO using experience.
Croak said:
The Atoto is one of the few that uses a MediaTek SoC instead of a Rockchip or Intel Sofia. That means for right now, there's no community support.
I've got the 2gb touch-only version, had it since just before Christmas. It's reasonably responsive (think 2012-2013 high-end tablet/phone responsive), it gets really bright (I'm in Florida with a sunroof and non-tinted windows, never had a problem seeing the screen), colors are a bit muted but viewing angles are good. 2 second boot is true, it comes alive very fast, backup camera activates quickly.
Dual BT was the main selling point for me, and it works as advertised, phone is paired for phone/contacts/media, OBD2 is paired, and phone is can paired again for BT tethering. BT tethering works decent, there's plenty of bandwidth for running Maps/Waze while streaming Spotify, but you'll of course want to switch back to WiFi tethering/hotspot for video streaming or even installing apps from the Play Store.
The microSD card slot works well, I've use a NTFS formatted 128gb SanDisk with no issues. The "fast charge" USB connector puts out just under 2a, so it does charge quicker than most, but still no comparison to an QC 2, 3, or Power Delivery charger. That same USB port is the only USB 2.0 port, the other two USB ports (on one dongle) are USB 1.1
The combination of on-device and external microphones seems to work well enough for voice activation and calling (my callers say I sound fine, no worse than any other speakerphone). Google Assistant does NOT work on this device (or just about any tablet for that matter), but Google Now/Voice Search does work, along with OK Google voice detection. (and OK Waze detection if you're Wazing).
I've only had one crash, and that may have been a launcher problem, or a Spotify problem as much as an Atoto problem.
Audio quality is good, with a half-decent EQ, fader/balance controls, loudness. Power is lacking, so you'll want to run this through an amp.
Steering wheel interface works (though I needed both a PAC CANBUS harness/box, and at PAC SW-1 RC to make them work). Pro-tip if you go with the PAC stuff, program the SW-1 as a Pioneer, and then use the Kenwood wire (instead of the 3.5mm plug) to Key + on the A6. There's also no provision on the A6 for dual button mapping, you get one function per button (some units allow for double press or long press for more options).
Wifi reception is solid, the included remote antenna is the key to this (mine is mounted on the edge of my windshield, partially tucked under the headliner, and practically invisible.
GPS reception is also very good, I almost always get 10+ satellites and quick locks.
So far, so good.
But...the A6 has three big problems.
The first is that the distance between the outer glass screen with the touch layer, and the actual LCD is pretty wide, and that causes parallax issues, where you touch on the glass doesn't match up with the screen, especially annoying with small buttons and hamburger menus. The physical button version doesn't seem to have this issue, because the touch screen and the LCD are closer (at the cost of having the whole display inset and not flush.). If I had to do it over, I'd opt for the PB model.
The second issue is that there's always some electronic noise heard when the unit is powered up, similar to putting a mobile phone next to speakers, and it varies with CPU load and Wifi activity. You don't notice it when music is playing but if there's a pause (or you pause), there it is again. Doesn't seem to be affected by volume settings though.
The last major issue (and there's maybe a fix coming for this in the next firmware update from Atoto) is that when the device has been off for more than oh, ten minutes, when it comes back on, it automatically loads the AM/FM tuner and plays. Which is annoying enough on its own (the FM tuner app is hideous, for one thing), but for some reason, the volume from the tuner is 2x the volume of MP3, internet streaming, or BT streaming music, so if you were rocking out even just a little when you parked the car, when you get back, your eardrums will be bleeding from the FM blast. So far, nobody has figured a way to disable the FM app, it's part of the system, and tied to the MCU.
Overall, I'm not unhappy with the A6, since I went into it knowing that all the Chindroid head units are flawed...but for $179 (Lightning deal), I figured it was worth the risk.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot for your honest reivew. After find your honest using feedback, I placed the Order for one ATOTO product: A62721PB. It seems like their products is hot-sale. There are just left 3 to sell now. So lucky for me to find this great Chinese head unit. However, I am not so lucky enough to catch their lightning deal. So I paid $249.:crying::crying::crying:
Anyway, I am very happy with ATOTO product. I noticed that you pointed out an using issue: radio automatically turn on. Based on my experience, please make sure you exit our radio, turn off the car then turn on car, the radio will not showing up. If the radio still turning on after the car is on, please open AUX then exit it. I am sure you will solve the problem.
I also have the same problem. I know it is a nuisance. So I registered on their support website and found this way. Hope it will help you. What's more, I have sent mail to their support team, they feedback to me the same method within 1 hours. I had to say: They have a great and professional support team. I will get another ATOTO product for my GF.
bluemind497 said:
Thanks a lot for your honest reivew. After find your honest using feedback, I placed the Order for one ATOTO product: A62721PB. It seems like their products is hot-sale. There are just left 3 to sell now. So lucky for me to find this great Chinese head unit. However, I am not so lucky enough to catch their lightning deal. So I paid $249.:crying::crying::crying:
Anyway, I am very happy with ATOTO product. I noticed that you pointed out an using issue: radio automatically turn on. Based on my experience, please make sure you exit our radio, turn off the car then turn on car, the radio will not showing up. If the radio still turning on after the car is on, please open AUX then exit it. I am sure you will solve the problem.
I also have the same problem. I know it is a nuisance. So I registered on their support website and found this way. Hope it will help you. What's more, I have sent mail to their support team, they feedback to me the same method within 1 hours. I had to say: They have a great and professional support team. I will get another ATOTO product for my GF.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The trick with switching to AUX and exiting does not work on my unit.
But I've found a fix and it will work 100% of the time. I'm arranging a return of the Atoto unit with Amazon. The radio issue is not something I can live with, having to do half a dozen button presses when starting the car, I may as well use a mobile phone.
Also, if the radio does not get turned on at startup, the MCU isn't initialized, which means there's no audio, no backup camera, etc. My return period expires in a week, and I have no faith that Atoto will fix this before then, so I'm returning it, and finding a different unit. I'll take a look at Atoto again with their next generation of units, they're on the right track, but they're not there yet.
There is supposed to be a "pro" version coming out before March, which will include hand gestures control. ATOTO support says you'll be able to control the unit without touching the screen/steering wheel. I'm guessing the price for the current premium version will go down so I'm going to wait. If you find another unit with dial Bluetooth or easy tethering let us know pls.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
car_dude_123 said:
There is supposed to be a "pro" version coming out before March, which will include hand gestures control. ATOTO support says you'll be able to control the unit without touching the screen/steering wheel. I'm guessing the price for the current premium version will go down so I'm going to wait. If you find another unit with dial Bluetooth or easy tethering let us know pls.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds great! I will buy the next version. Hope they can give me some discounts! Let's waiting!
Just got an email from ATOTO - new model coming in March. I'm waiting...
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
I own a Dasaita HA2100A-V600.
I own a Dasaita HA2100A-V600. It differs from the HA2100-V600. It has a capacitive home button, lacks a micro sd slot, and is 178mm wide. The dasaita is not compatible with Bluetooth game pads nor my obdlink mx obd2 scanner. I suspect that the ATOTO A6 is compatible with these BT accessories. I had to use the much cheaper and faster usb obdlink sx on my dasaita. Honestly, if dasaita makes a direct fit product for your car, it is more economical than getting a dash kit, canbus to analog converter for reverse trigger and (retained) accessory power, in addition to steering wheel control adapter. Dasaita units have built in canbus capabilities where ATOTO units do not. Dasaita doesn't make a direct fit for the Ford Focus MK3. If I were to do it all over again. I would've gone with the Atoto unit from the start, only because fitment of an ATOTO 173mm unit has to be easier than the larger Dasaita units.
Croak said:
The Atoto is one of the few that uses a MediaTek SoC instead of a Rockchip or Intel Sofia. That means for right now, there's no community support.
But...the A6 has three big problems.
The first is that the distance between the outer glass screen with the touch layer, and the actual LCD is pretty wide, and that causes parallax issues, where you touch on the glass doesn't match up with the screen, especially annoying with small buttons and hamburger menus. The physical button version doesn't seem to have this issue, because the touch screen and the LCD are closer (at the cost of having the whole display inset and not flush.). If I had to do it over, I'd opt for the PB model.
The second issue is that there's always some electronic noise heard when the unit is powered up, similar to putting a mobile phone next to speakers, and it varies with CPU load and Wifi activity. You don't notice it when music is playing but if there's a pause (or you pause), there it is again. Doesn't seem to be affected by volume settings though.
The last major issue (and there's maybe a fix coming for this in the next firmware update from Atoto) is that when the device has been off for more than oh, ten minutes, when it comes back on, it automatically loads the AM/FM tuner and plays. Which is annoying enough on its own (the FM tuner app is hideous, for one thing), but for some reason, the volume from the tuner is 2x the volume of MP3, internet streaming, or BT streaming music, so if you were rocking out even just a little when you parked the car, when you get back, your eardrums will be bleeding from the FM blast. So far, nobody has figured a way to disable the FM app, it's part of the system, and tied to the MCU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, full root and a custom recovery is available for this now. As for custom roms and stuff, nothing for that right now. My unit is fully rooted but I have not yet installed TWRP custom recovery as its not something I am going to be using at the moment. FlashFire is working just fine for my needs.
I will address your issues number 2 and number 3.
As for the "electrical noise" when powered up or when no sound is present, I am not experiencing that what so ever. Make sure you have good solid ground. If you are using a PAC device (You mentioned that earlier about the steering wheel controls), make sure its not the PAC device its self causing the problem. I am using the PAC RP5-GM11 in my 2004 Chevy Tahoe and there is zero electrical noise/hiss what so ever.
As for the radio always turning on, that I will agree with, it is super annoying as is the SD card or anything other than the radio, playing at what seem like half volume that the radio plays at. The best way to stop the radio from playing when you first turn on your car/power, is to turn off the head unit with the power button before you remove power/turn off your key. Now when you turn the car back on, the head unit is off and you will have to turn it back on. But be ready to turn the volume down if you had it up pretty high when you turned off the unit.
Myself, other than the clunky factory UI/Launcher and the radio issue I mentioned and the quoted post, that are my only real issues but far from deal breakers for me. The launcher is easy, just install a different one. And now that my unit is rooted, its just a little bit better for me. Overall, after 2 months now, I am very happy with mine so far.
I have installed the Atoto A6Y2721PB on my 2017 Honda Accord Sport. I am having an issue with the ASWC-1. I have updated both firmwares to the most recent versions. When I go to program the Steering Wheel Controls through the Atoto system, it is only recognizing no more than 3 of the buttons on the Steering Wheel. Right now it is configured for Pioneer/Jensen as that is what Atoto Customer Service recommended. However, the only buttons recognized are Volume Up, Seek forward, and Seek Backward. It does not recognize volume down, source, or any of the lower buttons: Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command. I tried every brand available on the ASWC-1 manual stereo program, as well as the Auto stereo program, and some recognize the source and volume down buttons, but none recognize the lower (Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command) buttons. I have tried wiring the Atoto to the 3.5mm female multiple ways as well, sometimes different buttons will work, but no more than 3. I am not getting any errors while setting up the ASWC-1, I get the 7 Green LED blinks, and the Red Solid LED as well. Any ideas or recommendations?
This is installed with the Metra 99-7804 kit for my vehicle.
Any update? How is the unit after 6 months? Is the radio turn off problem better now?
Blakestr said:
Any update? How is the unit after 6 months? Is the radio turn off problem better now?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Firmware update in early February made it a tiny bit less annoying, in that the "Aux trick" works more reliably. But you still have to frequently manually select AUX after starting the car, or you get either no audio using speaker wire output or muted audio with no onboard controls (fader/balance, EQ, SWC etc) if using RCA outputs to an external amp. There's been no firmware updates since then.
Also, on mine, the backup camera stopped working in late January. Atoto sent me a replacement camera/harness, still not working. Reverse trigger works (it mutes audio when in reverse) and the dedicated camera power and ground connections in my car meter out correct, but it gets no signal from the camera...even took both cameras to an audio shop, and they both work on the shop's test devices, so it's something in the input side of the Atoto that went bad. And yes, I installed a relay on the PAC harness, so it's not the 1 amp limitation that's causing the problem.
Updating apps from the Play Store is painfully slow...it's not a bandwidth issue, it's once the app update has finished downloading, it takes many, many minutes for the update to process. Things like Waze or Maps can take 20 minutes to update AFTER downloading.
Finally, the biggest reason I went with the A6 in the first place, dual Bluetooth for tethering, is a feature I ended up not using much after the first month, because I have an in-car hotspot now, and don't need to tether my phone for data.
But other than that, it's working mostly fine for what I use it for, which is Waze, MP3, Spotify, with CarWebGuru as the launcher. And, it only cost me $179 for the unit itself. Still looking for that "great" double-din universal Android head unit, but at this point, I'm probably just going to go with a 2018 model major brand head unit with capacitive display and Wireless Android Auto (the Alpine HALO9 unit looks very interesting).
As soon as I saw MediaTek.....
Keep away.
Perfect, thanks for this. I ordered the 2 gig Physical button, 239 minus the 15 clipon off amazon. I also ordered the steer wheeling control (even though I don't really like the way it looks but I care more that it's made and seems to work for it), a highly rated backup camera for $25 and the Atoto Bluetooth OBD2 reader.
This is for a 2005 Hyundai Elantra, which I already have the Scorsche DoubleDin kit and the Metric Harness.
I'm particularly excited because there has always been this huge gap in tech between my home life and my car. I've spent the last 3 years using a bluetooth headset as my audio source from my phone. (audiobooks mainly, physical control buttons on headset). Though I could never get my S7 Edge to root I should be able to use one of the paid tethering apps of the playstore hopefully. (I want faster speeds than BT tether - I "watch" a lot of information videos on Youtube that are more or less audio productions.
Always use a PX cpu. never go for mediatek or allwinner unless you cannot fint a PX unit.
Hi.
I'm quite new in this adventure (LOL)
I have a Belsee android 10 head unit connected to my sound system in a car with DSP and aftermarket amps and speakers (Mazda 6 2017)
a couple of things annoy me and I would like to ask how can I improve the android to work better? Which app I should install it?
Also, have a problem. Sometimes it freezes and has to restart it.
When I turn on the HU the original software is frozen for a while before he kicks on! Is there a way to fix this glitch?
Also what annoys me very much is when I switch off from the android to the normal Original Mazda mod screen Aux music stop playing. Is there something to avoid this?
Also I there anything to have a volume control panel where I can see how much I'm increasing volume? My system is quite loud and I have set the volume to not go above to prevent clipping or distortion and just wanna be safe. Unfortunately, I have to switch to the original OEM from android, the music stops, and then adjust the volume to see what level I am.
Also as the original OEM use a bose amp and now is obviously replaced with aftermarket amps i can't figure out why is my radio and CD/DVD player quieter then AUX output..Anyone knows, please?
I would really appreciate it if someone can give me the best tips and apps to improve the HU.
Thank you!!!
I also have a belsee android unit (on my mazda 3) with aftermarket subs, tweeters and connected to Bose system that has both the Mazda connect & Android o/s. I have experienced similar problems as you - sometimes the original mazda system takes forever to complete it's boot-up. I did upgrade to Mazda connect firmware 74 and that DID help (system responds faster and voice commands function much better) but it has some issues sometimes with the backup camera for some reason As far as the volume issue, i've found that if i don't use steering wheel control for volume but the knob on the center console i get a visual representation of volume from both sides.
You might check to see if your Bose Co-pilot and Centerpoint are disabled. I've found this levels out the volume a little better.
Do you have problems switching between the two o/s's - ie it's easy to get back to the mazda system by touching console favorites button or using the CarUI icon but going back to Android by swiping right hand side of screen doesn't work many times??????
I've also found that sometimes the Driver (left) side of audio on AUX cuts out as if it's not there and reserved for the voice warnings that occur and doesn't come back until restarted.
Does DSP work for you? I can touch the icon for it, it won't launch for me. Also radio is only available on Mazda side and app not there on android side.
eddotykc said:
I also have a belsee android unit (on my mazda 3) with aftermarket subs, tweeters and connected to Bose system that has both the Mazda connect & Android o/s. I have experienced similar problems as you - sometimes the original mazda system takes forever to complete it's boot-up. I did upgrade to Mazda connect firmware 74 and that DID help (system responds faster and voice commands function much better) but it has some issues sometimes with the backup camera for some reason As far as the volume issue, i've found that if i don't use steering wheel control for volume but the knob on the center console i get a visual representation of volume from both sides.
You might check to see if your Bose Co-pilot and Centerpoint are disabled. I've found this levels out the volume a little better.
Do you have problems switching between the two o/s's - ie it's easy to get back to the mazda system by touching console favorites button or using the CarUI icon but going back to Android by swiping right hand side of screen doesn't work many times??????
I've also found that sometimes the Driver (left) side of audio on AUX cuts out as if it's not there and reserved for the voice warnings that occur and doesn't come back until restarted.
Does DSP work for you? I can touch the icon for it, it won't launch for me. Also radio is only available on Mazda side and app not there on android side.
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Hi.Thanks for your reply. I haven't hope anyone will answer!
I would like to update the firmware but I don't know how..Also, I was reading you can jump straight from android 10 to android 12 but i don't know how to.
I have still a problem with the reversing camera sometimes..
There is absolutely poor communication with the Chinese..Their English is like hello. connect to the original radio then ok?... So what the hell that means?!!!!
Also, does the volume button piss me off? Is there a way somehow with some app to get the volume from the OEM screen to transfer to the android?
Also, I have an issue checking the android for clipping by oscilloscope..My focal tweeters sound harsh and sparkling when I increase the volume...I don't know if there has to be a balance between the volume of OEM to volume on AU|X?I ws reading somewhere someone checks the original OEM for clipping and it says there is no clipping on full volume..I have to test it..The problem is I don't know whether to check the voltage from HU before the pre amp or after..I bought an adapter from amazon which on one end is a wire to strip in and another side is RCA female output when I'm running 8 wires into the DSP Focal and then to each amp.
About DSP in android ..Do not use this..Its a crap..I tested with a scope. It's clipping like hell and producing a lot of distortion.
But my main issue is the correct voltage output from HU because if you set the voltage in DSP software on a computer wrongly you by sending to the amps digital clipping....
About the Radio in android, i have only FM which i don't know why because i purchase DAB and install it..Also the DAB is very weak..it may be because of interference from somewhere..
I have as well the problem with the left door speaker cutting of few times..
Would love to move from android 10 to 12 - have you found firmware file to do it?
I actually changed out the back-up camera for a third party model that i can choose from six different views and it works great with both the mazda connect and android.
On the distortion issue, have you checked all the wiring behind glove compartment and heat unit to make sure there isn't a wire exposed potentially causing the distortion. I had a problem on the rca going to an under-seat sub sounding like crap until i wrapped the left and right as they came out of the PAC AOEM line-out converter and ensured it ran opposite of power/ground wiring.
I’m not using PAC.you don’t have to because if you measure the output voltage from hu is only between 0.6-0.8v before the factory preamp .after that is 2.4V so I bought on Amazon just adapter which on one end plug wires and other end rca. Then they run in to the dsp. But what really make my piss of is the volume on radio which is very quiet.I try your tactics without result.I don’t know if the Bose amp increase the volume or… other things have you manage to do the big 3 upgrade?at the moment I have 155amp alternator and second battery at the back xs power 3400 .the thing is I can’t connect alternator to battery as it causing charging eloop malfunkcion.it has to be done somehow to pass the sensor but haven’t figure out test.any idea?also charging screen not ready for I start stop -battery .when I disconnect second battery then fine full ready. It’s the upgrade issue alt to battery or alt? If where can I get bigger one ?
Good Morning!
I have a 2017 Mazda 6 with Bose system and amp & just installed a Belsee android 10 with dual capability to use my factory infotainment + android. Is this the same one ya’ll have? Im also a novice when it comes to all of this so I’m working with a local car stereo shop to figure it all out. 1) We’re either of ya’ll able to plug in the center control knob? Factory system and original screen both had 4pin plugs, but Android has a proprietary plug with 4pin to plug into original infotainment system, so there are no more 4pin ports. 2) when I plug in the RCA cables I get a background static that doesn’t go away — constantly on once the system boots (and is there when I’m on the OEM and Android). Android side base volume is low and I have to crank volume way up to hear. 3) when using wireless Apple car play on Android side and making calls, the receiver gets a horrible immediate echo of their voice. Not sure of the fix for volume and echo, just thought I’d throw it out here if any of you or those on the forum have similar problems or a solution. Thanks!
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Hello stefanek33! Yes, I did buy from Belsee and have been dealing with Rambo since June troubleshooting the issue. It has been very frustrating and I’ve come to the conclusion in my novice mind that the systems are crap. You confirmed it with your professional work on it! I had to look for something because my factory screen crapped out on me — it was going to be $1500 to replace and was backordered by Mazda with unknown stock date so I went looking and found Belsee. Screen size is great but that’s about it. At this point since the factory works, I’m just going to use the thing for the 10.1” screen and get one of those car link adaptors that does the same (android apps, wireless CarPlay) but run it through the factory part and completely ignore the Belsee android (attached the install document and a picture of the split screen android/factory system). All I need to do is figure out how to plug in the center command knob and they plan will work (I think lol).
I’m interested in your suggested fix, but I’m not sure what you mean about the red wire. What is the tau? Do you have a picture example of the wire? I’m sorry — you’re dealing with a complete noob / novice to troubleshooting electronics. Happy holidays!!!
mjs8rkis said:
Hello stefanek33! Yes, I did buy from Belsee and have been dealing with Rambo since June troubleshooting the issue. It has been very frustrating and I’ve come to the conclusion in my novice mind that the systems are crap. You confirmed it with your professional work on it! I had to look for something because my factory screen crapped out on me — it was going to be $1500 to replace and was backordered by Mazda with unknown stock date so I went looking and found Belsee. Screen size is great but that’s about it. At this point since the factory works, I’m just going to use the thing for the 10.1” screen and get one of those car link adaptors that does the same (android apps, wireless CarPlay) but run it through the factory part and completely ignore the Belsee android (attached the install document and a picture of the split screen android/factory system). All I need to do is figure out how to plug in the center command knob and they plan will work (I think lol).
I’m interested in your suggested fix, but I’m not sure what you mean about the red wire. What is the tau? Do you have a picture example of the wire? I’m sorry — you’re dealing with a complete noob / novice to troubleshooting electronics. Happy holidays!!!
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TAU = Tuner Amplifier Unit. Google is my friend. I’m getting smarter at this by the day! Lol. It’s one thing to work through good quality products that have diagrams and such … but having to pull teeth to get back one to two liners in broken English is very frustrating. Even more so when they say these units are “plug and play” lol
you should recieve this wire ..then connect it and run the rcaback to the unit and connect it in to the AUx in..The central knob i havent got any wires i just use the factory wire from the Radio and connected to the Android ..It mus fit try...Central knob connect to the original location...I was bit strugling too as later i figure out from the Original OEM you have to dismount the metal Unit and fit the android unit on it..Of course Mr Rambo didnt provide scrwews so i have to use my one...When you instal the Android on the metal OEM part then just run the blue wire from the Android and connect to the Metal Unit and you should be okay..
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Stefanek33 said:
you should recieve this wire ..then connect it and run the rcaback to the unit and connect it in to the AUx in..The central knob i havent got any wires i just use the factory wire from the Radio and connected to the Android ..It mus fit try...Central knob connect to the original location...I was bit strugling too as later i figure out from the Original OEM you have to dismount the metal Unit and fit the android unit on it..Of course Mr Rambo didnt provide scrwews so i have to use my one...When you instal the Android on the metal OEM part then just run the blue wire from the Android and connect to the Metal Unit and you should be okay..
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Ah yes, received that connector and ran it through to the Aux in on the Android. I have the static and the low volume and echo on Bluetooth/CarPlay calling still.
For the center control knob, I have this power/4pin connector (attached pic), and I can connect it to the factory, but then the Android blue cable that connect from Android head unit to that 4pin port won’t connect. Will I still get the factory system to show? I’ll need to extend the cable though to get it to plug into the factory since it won’t reach.
Thanks!
The blu cable has nothing to do with the central consol .blue wire from android the second end connect to the metal part of oem.
That’s right. But if I leave blue connected to the metal part of OEM, I have no other place to plug the center console plug. All Rambo told me was to unplug the blue and see what happens lol
I connect the central console back to the OEM metal bracket..I think in my one the 4 pins are positioned on the left back side..How is it look like your metal Bracket from back..Can you make some pic.?
I was able to get the center knob to work! I kept the blue 4 pin cable, but apparently in a previous install the guy helping me ran a separate 8pin cable that didn’t connect to anything, so I found the correct 8pin that is connected to the power cable and it all works. Now I just need to try and solve the echo and static issue. I think if I go the way you did and completely replace the Bose system, it would work — though might end up with the same issue you have. Happy New Year!
How is working aux for you?You have to plug the silly 3.5mm jack in to the aux slot then switch to the Aux on the OEM..When you increase the volume on aux did you hear static noise with or without starting the engine?Please let me know!Its very important!
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Stefanek33 said:
If you can please do that .Do not play any music.Just plug in and increase both volumes on max if you hear any hiss or static noise from tweeters etc...The problem is the 3.5mm jack doesn't have close circuit and I wanna find out if this is the main concern causing the issue...
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So I plugged red/white RCA connector to the R/W RCA inputs on the android. I immediately began hearing static at low to zero volume. I did not have the 24 pin adapter cable even connected to the right door radio plug. I also did not have the 35mm jack in the aux slot. So I had the static then, and the after, when I plugged the adapter in and the 35mm in the aux slot, static was still there, but my volume was very low. Turning up the volume made static even worse. I heard the static both without and with the engine started.
Thought it interesting that static started immediately when plugging the RCA male to the RCA inputs on the android and didn’t even have the 24 pin adapter connected.
mjs8rkis said:
So I plugged red/white RCA connector to the R/W RCA inputs on the android. I immediately began hearing static at low to zero volume. I did not have the 24 pin adapter cable even connected to the right door radio plug. I also did not have the 35mm jack in the aux slot. So I had the static then, and the after, when I plugged the adapter in and the 35mm in the aux slot, static was still there, but my volume was very low. Turning up the volume made static even worse. I heard the static both without and with the engine started.
Thought it interesting that static started immediately when plugging the RCA male to the RCA inputs on the android and didn’t even have the 24 pin adapter connected.
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Make some short video and upload on vimeo ..We have to do something with it as Rambo wasnt really honest with as.