[GUIDE] Battery and Screen replacement with pictures - LeEco Le Max 2 Guides, News, & Discussion
I just replaced the battery and screen on my LeEco Le Max 2, and this post will detail the process. Hopefully it will be helpful for someone who is considering to replace their screen and/or battery.
Consider buying an extra screen
There are a number of people who have reported breaking their screen as a result of replacing the battery. I highly recommend that you buy a replacement screen if you intend to replace the battery. Unfortunately while removing my screen I also created a few dead pixels (which you'll see later). With all that being said, it is definitely possible to remove your screen without damaging it. I suspect that next time I will be able to remove the screen without damaging it.
Tools required
- small philips screwdriver (from Jeweler's kit)
- thin prying tools
- suction cup that tightly grips screen (you'll see the one I used later)
- heat gun or hair dryer
Onto the replacement procedure
Before you begin, make sure that you have plenty of time to commit to the replacement. It took me about 2 hours to swap the battery and screen. You should also read this full post before attempting to remove your battery.
Remove any sim cards in your phone and turn your phone off.
You'll need to heat up the perimeter of the screen on your phone. This can be done using a heat gun, however I manged this using a hair dryer. I spent about 10 minutes heating up the screen before attempting to remove the screen. Note that as you're removing the screen you may need reheat certain areas of the screen to loosen up the adhesive that secures the screen.
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Next you'll want to apply the suction cup towards the bottom of the screen. Ensure that you have a solid grip on the screen.
I pulled the suction cup away from the screen, and began to notice that the sides of the screen were begging to come undone. I used a prying tool to sliced the adhesive that was holding the screen in place.
Go around the edge of the screen very carefully until the entire screen is removed. Remember the screen is glass and will break if it's flexed too much. My advice would be to go slow and use a lot of heat.
You'll need to remove two small screws behind the screen in order to disconnect the cable which connects the screen to the body of the phone.
Then disconnect the screen ribbon from the phone.
There will be an additional 15 screws which you'll need to remove in order to get to the battery. If you are just replacing the screen you can skip ahead to the section where I connect the new screen to the phone.
With all of the screws removed, you can pry the shield away from the back of the phone. You'll need to be careful, as a ribbon is glued to the back of the shield.
You can see the glue locations for the ribbon on the back of the shield. With the shield removed, you can now finally access the old battery.
Disconnect the ribbon that is right above the battery. Near this large ribbon will be another smaller ribbon that connects the battery to your phone. Disconnect the battery from the phone.
Now you can begin to remove the battery.
Important note from an XDA user
Jaki1122 said:
In the attach photos, you can see on the glue band (or whatever is called) a wider zone close to the motherboard. That is because you are supposed to grab that and pull straight. Then the glue comes off and the battery pops off nicely without being bend and with 0 danger. For this procedure you need to take out the motherboard entirely, which is pretty easy and quick. Take out the SIM tray (I always forget about this one ), disconnect the few connectors (vol and power buttons, fingerprint, USB Dock and the coaxial cable on the right), then 2 screws and its just comes out. After this the end of the glue band is clearly visible and easy to take and pull. Also, and this applies to all phones, you can use isopropyl 99% to weaken the glue (also useful for cleaning PCBs and fix water damage). Another note: you should always avoid bending a Lithium battery like in the photos, heat it to 70 degrees Celsius to weaken the glue and take it out as straight as possible.
Note 2: FOR LE ECO LE 2 USERS: The battery is mounted exactly like the Max 2, BUT you need to take out the USB PCB and speaker on the lower part of the phone instead of the motherboard, given that there is where the "puller" is. Why is it different to the Max 2 if the rest of the phone is identical? No idea... Maybe a brainfart?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Be very careful not to puncture the battery as you remove the battery. The battery is glued into the base of the phone. You can see the two major glue strips in the following picture.
Place and secure the replacement battery.
Reassemble your phone. Before you put the new screen on, I recommend testing the original screen to see if you damaged the screen during the process.
You can see a few new dead pixels on my original screen. This happened as I was prying the screen open, so you'll want to be very careful as you remove the screen. Do not stick your prying tool too far in or against the screen. This damage is something I could live with, however since I have a new screen I'll go ahead and put it on. Turn your phone off before attaching a different screen.
You'll want to connect and test the new screen before proceeding.
Hopefully your new screen is working. Turn your phone off again. Now you should do your best to remove the old adhesive that was used to secure the old screen to the phone. However, you should only do this if you have new adhesive to secure the screen in place!
Your new screen should come with an adhesive template. Remove the outer edge of this template which will be placed on your phone's body.
Now place the adhesive template onto the body of the phone. You'll have to push down such that the adhesive has been firmly placed. Remove the template such that only the adhesive around the perimeter of your phone remains.
Connect the new screen's ribbon to the phone, and secure with the two screws. You can now firmly place the new screen into the phone. You'll want to firmly press the screen into place around the edges.
You'll want to keep pressure on the screen while the adhesive sets in place. I used a few pennies placed on the floor to give clearance to the rear camera. Then I placed the phone on the pennies, and heated up the screen again. I believe the adhesive will cure faster and stronger onces it's been warmed up.
I then placed a textbook onto the screen with a 10 pound weight, where I let the phone sit for an hour or so.
Enjoy your newly replaced battery/screen and hopefully this has been helpful!
AccuBattery stats for the new battery
I'm now on the second charge of the battery, and I figured you may be interested in some of the stats of the battery. You can see that despite the battery being labeled 4100 mAH, the estimated battery capacity is only about 3000 mAH.
Frequently Asked Questions
coming soon
Edit June 7, 2019, I think we can conclude that changing the battery capacity as detailed below doesn't do anything
Updating battery capacity in Lineage based roms
This is in regards to this post https://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-s3/general/fix-compiled-powerprofile-xml-file-to-t1732722
I don't think that updating the power_profile.xml https://github.com/LineageOS/androi...works/base/core/res/res/xml/power_profile.xml does anything really. However if you want to change it to a new battery capacity, this post will explain how.
I edited the default power_profile.xml to reflect the new 4100 mAH battery (there are many doubts of the real battery capacity). I then compiled the power_profile.xml. The attached power_profile.xml is the compiled version.
1. Boot into recovery and copy /system/framework/framework-res.apk over to your computer.
2. Make a backup of this framework-res.apk
3. Open framework-res.apk on your computer using 7zip.
4. Navigate to res/xml/
5. Delete the power_profile.xml
6. Copy the attached power_profile.xml into the location where the previous power_profile.xml file was. Note this is a compiled file, meaning that it is not in plain text and you can't read the inside of the file.
7. save the framework-res.apk
8. Copy the new framework-res.apk over to /system/framework/
9. Reboot your phone.
You can use the following command to pull a csv of your battery stats while your phone is connected to your computer and running lineage (other other OS). More info here https://developer.android.com/studio/command-line/dumpsys
Code:
adb shell dumpsys batterystats --checkin > bat.csv
which will create a comma separated list of your battery properties. The one related to the specified capacity of your battery has the section identifier pws. Open bat.csv on your computer and search for pws. Before doing this change it would show up as 3100, and now it shows up as 4100. However, I have not noticed that this did anything different with the battery behavior or estimated battery capacity. The only thing this appeared to do is now that when I open AccuBattery a different manufacture capacity shows up.
Six month battery review:
I have 120 charge sessions, and probably only 1% of those used Quick Charge 3.0. AccuBattery shows estimated capacity of 3,065 mAh. The battery has been strong so far. See attached screenshots.
Hi, great guide, but when i try to download the power_profile.xml you uploaded i get an error.
I'm thinking on buying a new battery to replace it (and buy a screen just in case) because my current one its not calibrated and i cannot find a way to calibrate it, it says that its got 1800mah but it can actually hold 3000+.., the real capacity its really 3000-? i have seen people that say its around 3800~ can you confirm?
Links to buy???
sameer 100 said:
Links to buy???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These are the products that I purchased and the price that I paid. I don't necessary endorse these products... besides the suction cup. That one was great. One more thing, the adaptive brightness on the new screen doesn't appear to work as good it with the original screen.
Screen $13.17: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ori...-X820-touch-screen-Digitizer/32862597681.html
Battery $10.81: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/HSA...-2-X820-Le-Max2-5-7inch-X821/32875310678.html
Tools $11.88: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Jel...Set-LCD-Screen-Opening-Plier/32831437976.html
Suction cup $1.36: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bod...ss-Metal-Cell-Phone-Table-PC/32843015681.html
hitagisenjougahara said:
Hi, great guide, but when i try to download the power_profile.xml you uploaded i get an error.
I'm thinking on buying a new battery to replace it (and buy a screen just in case) because my current one its not calibrated and i cannot find a way to calibrate it, it says that its got 1800mah but it can actually hold 3000+.., the real capacity its really 3000-? i have seen people that say its around 3800~ can you confirm?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try right clicking power_profile.xml and doing a save as. That just worked for me.
If it's a software bug, then EUI should help.
I was in a similar situation where my phone was 1.5 years old, and my estimated battery capacity was around 1700 mAH. I tried calibrating my battery (on lineage), and it did not work. As soon as I put this battery in, on the very first charge, the calibration appeared correctly on lineage. No sudden battery % drops or other weird behavior.
xlcashlx said:
These are the products that I purchased and the price that I paid. I don't necessary endorse these products... besides the suction cup. That one was great. One more thing, the adaptive brightness on the new screen doesn't appear to work as good it with the original screen.
Screen $13.17: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ori...-X820-touch-screen-Digitizer/32862597681.html
Battery $10.81: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/HSA...-2-X820-Le-Max2-5-7inch-X821/32875310678.html
Tools $11.88: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Jel...Set-LCD-Screen-Opening-Plier/32831437976.html
Suction cup $1.36: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bod...ss-Metal-Cell-Phone-Table-PC/32843015681.html
Try right clicking power_profile.xml and doing a save as. That just worked for me.
If it's a software bug, then EUI should help.
I was in a similar situation where my phone was 1.5 years old, and my estimated battery capacity was around 1700 mAH. I tried calibrating my battery (on lineage), and it did not work. As soon as I put this battery in, on the very first charge, the calibration appeared correctly on lineage. No sudden battery % drops or other weird behavior.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you fixed that problem? Or your battery was actually 1700mah? Because mine is not..
Also any updates in the real battery capacity? I've thinking on changing the battery right away, but if its only 3000mah its not worth, whats the charge current when it reaches 100%? it should say that in accubattery
hitagisenjougahara said:
Did you fixed that problem? Or your battery was actually 1700mah? Because mine is not..
Also any updates in the real battery capacity? I've thinking on changing the battery right away, but if its only 3000mah its not worth, whats the charge current when it reaches 100%? it should say that in accubattery
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My battery was failing and rapidly getting worse. The capacity I was getting was actually 1700 mAH.
You can see the current hit zero and the capacity is still around 3100 mAH. I did a 1% to 99% uninterrupted charge in EUI. It would have been nice if the battery was actually 4100 mAH, but it does not appear that is the case.
xlcashlx said:
My battery was failing and rapidly getting worse. The capacity I was getting was actually 1700 mAH and was rapidly getting worse.
You can see the current hit zero and the capacity is still around 3100 mAH. I did a 1% to 99% uninterrupted charge in EUI. It would have been nice if the battery was actually 4100 mAH, but it does not appear that is the case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Feelsbad, well its better than 1700 anyways, thanks for sharing
Hi bro, i heard from a guy that has recently replaced the battery to this HSABAT one that all OREO & Nougat roms are capped at 3100mah and you need to use another rom (this: https://t.me/LeitaEUI6) to get the full capacity of the battery, he says its real battery capacity its around 3800~ mah, will be cool if you try this rom and share results
hitagisenjougahara said:
Hi bro, i heard from a guy that has recently replaced the battery to this HSABAT one that all OREO & Nougat roms are capped at 3100mah and you need to use another rom (this: https://t.me/LeitaEUI6) to get the full capacity of the battery, he says its real battery capacity its around 3800~ mah, will be cool if you try this rom and share results
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be cool.
Can I use any EUI6 build? I did try EUI5 and the capacity was still arround 3100 =/
xlcashlx said:
That would be cool.
Can I use any EUI6 build? I did try EUI5 and the capacity was still arround 3100 =/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont know, try the one i sent
Hey,
fist, thanks for that great guide!
I also changed my battery, but the capacity is only 3000 mAh. It is better than the old battery, but not 4100 mAh. I did the thing with the xml file. But nothing changed. I have lineageos pie.
I think there are more mechanisms which will decrease the capacity.
I think it will be the battery_cycles. If the cycles are high, the batteryvoltage will be cut. If I charge, the battery isn't at 4.4 volts.
I found this files to change the cycles and the capacity. But it is just temporary:
/sys/Classic/power-supply/battery/
If I write in these files, at the next start it will be changed...
Is there any solution for the shutoff voltage and charge voltage?
Thanks.
Excellent work!
This phone is mercifully reparable once the screen is off. My advice to people is to take that part very carefully and deliberately, it's about the only thing you'll break if you're careless. Once it's off, things become much easier.
Publishing information like this is very helpful to those who would attempt repairs of a solid phone, and it's a gift to the community.
Did someone remove the screen without breaking it? Maybe with a small peace of plastic sheet instead metal prying tool .
Huncriter said:
Did someone remove the screen without breaking it? Maybe with a small peace of plastic sheet instead metal prying tool .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Those few dead pixels were the only damage to my screen, and it's damage I could have lived with. After this experience, I probably could have removed the screen without damage. This was the first smartphone with this design that I've ever opened.
I think this YT video shows someone removing a Le 2 screen without breaking it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_LExkf89z0 Be warned the fingernail thing you'll see grosses me out.
That said, there are numerous comments on XDA about people breaking their screen while attempting to replace their battery. It's highly recommended that you buy a replacement screen, especially if the lead (shipping + order) time is long for your country.
Thanks
Ths
Important extra info on the repair!!!
I've changed countless screens on this (and other) phones, and there is something VERY important missing on this tutorial (very well done apart from what I'm about to explain).
In the attach photos, (the same as in the OP post) you can see on the glue band (or whatever is called) a wider zone close to the motherboard. That is because you are supposed to grab that and pull straight. Then the glue comes off and the battery pops off nicely without being bend and with 0 danger. For this procedure you need to take out the motherboard entirely, which is pretty easy and quick. Take out the SIM tray (I always forget about this one ), disconnect the few connectors (vol and power buttons, fingerprint, USB Dock and the coaxial cable on the right), then 2 screws and its just comes out. After this the end of the glue band is clearly visible and easy to take and pull. Also, and this applies to all phones, you can use isopropyl 99% to weaken the glue (also useful for cleaning PCBs and fix water damage). Another note: you should always avoid bending a Lithium battery like in the photos, heat it to 70 degrees Celsius to weaken the glue and take it out as straight as possible.
Just as a note, I'm just trying to help here, not criticising other people's very appreciated apportions, just complementing them when I can.
Note 2: FOR LE ECO LE 2 USERS: The battery is mounted exactly like the Max 2, BUT you need to take out the USB PCB and speaker on the lower part of the phone instead of the motherboard, given that there is where the "puller" is. Why is it different to the Max 2 if the rest of the phone is identical? No idea... Maybe a brainfart?
3000 mAh to 4100 mAh
xlcashlx said:
I just replaced the battery and screen on my LeEco Le Max 2, and this post will detail the process. Hopefully it will be helpful for someone who is considering to replace their screen and/or battery.
Consider buying an extra screen
There are a number of people who have reported breaking their screen as a result of replacing the battery. I highly recommend that you buy a replacement screen if you intend to replace the battery. Unfortunately while removing my screen I also created a few dead pixels (which you'll see later). With all that being said, it is definitely possible to remove your screen without damaging it. I suspect that next time I will be able to remove the screen without damaging it.
Tools required
- small philips screwdriver (from Jeweler's kit)
- thin prying tools
- suction cup that tightly grips screen (you'll see the one I used later)
- heat gun or hair dryer
Onto the replacement procedure
Before you begin, make sure that you have plenty of time to commit to the replacement. It took me about 2 hours to swap the battery and screen. You should also read this full post before attempting to remove your battery.
Remove any sim cards in your phone and turn your phone off.
You'll need to heat up the perimeter of the screen on your phone. This can be done using a heat gun, however I manged this using a hair dryer. I spent about 10 minutes heating up the screen before attempting to remove the screen. Note that as you're removing the screen you may need reheat certain areas of the screen to loosen up the adhesive that secures the screen.
Next you'll want to apply the suction cup towards the bottom of the screen. Ensure that you have a solid grip on the screen.
I pulled the suction cup away from the screen, and began to notice that the sides of the screen were begging to come undone. I used a prying tool to sliced the adhesive that was holding the screen in place.
Go around the edge of the screen very carefully until the entire screen is removed. Remember the screen is glass and will break if it's flexed too much. My advice would be to go slow and use a lot of heat.
You'll need to remove two small screws behind the screen in order to disconnect the cable which connects the screen to the body of the phone.
Then disconnect the screen ribbon from the phone.
There will be an additional 15 screws which you'll need to remove in order to get to the battery. If you are just replacing the screen you can skip ahead to the section where I connect the new screen to the phone.
With all of the screws removed, you can pry the shield away from the back of the phone. You'll need to be careful, as a ribbon is glued to the back of the shield.
You can see the glue locations for the ribbon on the back of the shield. With the shield removed, you can now finally access the old battery.
Disconnect the ribbon that is right above the battery. Near this large ribbon will be another smaller ribbon that connects the battery to your phone. Disconnect the battery from the phone.
Now you can begin to remove the battery.
Important note from an XDA user
Be very careful not to puncture the battery as you remove the battery. The battery is glued into the base of the phone. You can see the two major glue strips in the following picture.
Place and secure the replacement battery.
Reassemble your phone. Before you put the new screen on, I recommend testing the original screen to see if you damaged the screen during the process.
You can see a few new dead pixels on my original screen. This happened as I was prying the screen open, so you'll want to be very careful as you remove the screen. Do not stick your prying tool too far in or against the screen. This damage is something I could live with, however since I have a new screen I'll go ahead and put it on. Turn your phone off before attaching a different screen.
You'll want to connect and test the new screen before proceeding.
Hopefully your new screen is working. Turn your phone off again. Now you should do your best to remove the old adhesive that was used to secure the old screen to the phone. However, you should only do this if you have new adhesive to secure the screen in place!
Your new screen should come with an adhesive template. Remove the outer edge of this template which will be placed on your phone's body.
Now place the adhesive template onto the body of the phone. You'll have to push down such that the adhesive has been firmly placed. Remove the template such that only the adhesive around the perimeter of your phone remains.
Connect the new screen's ribbon to the phone, and secure with the two screws. You can now firmly place the new screen into the phone. You'll want to firmly press the screen into place around the edges.
You'll want to keep pressure on the screen while the adhesive sets in place. I used a few pennies placed on the floor to give clearance to the rear camera. Then I placed the phone on the pennies, and heated up the screen again. I believe the adhesive will cure faster and stronger onces it's been warmed up.
I then placed a textbook onto the screen with a 10 pound weight, where I let the phone sit for an hour or so.
Enjoy your newly replaced battery/screen and hopefully this has been helpful!
AccuBattery stats for the new battery
I'm now on the second charge of the battery, and I figured you may be interested in some of the stats of the battery. You can see that despite the battery being labeled 4100 mAH, the estimated battery capacity is only about 3000 mAH.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can I install 4100mAh battery to my le2? 3000 is not enough
Are you kidding ? You unnecessary quote an entire post asking a question you could have answered yourself just by reading the thread ? Unbelievable.
Related
Battery Change without causing Hard Reset - Is it possible?
Does anyone know if it is safe to keep the charger cord attached while changing the battery? The goal, of course, is to prevent a hard reset. (Obviously, all data should be backed up to SD card first.) Is there a post somewhere that outlines the recommended steps for the battery change? (Search has not yielded one.) Thanks, Steve G. XDA on T-Mobile, GPRS
Hi, I recently replaced my battery with a higher capacity battery bought off ebay for $22US del from HK to UK in 5 days. search for ezipda, later bought one for an Ipaq for same price. The process of changing over took 5 mins, BUT!! I would not recommend having it plugged in and changing batt. You may be shocked by the result (pun intended). I cant remember if it did a hard reset but dont think it did. As long as your back-up battery is charged and u are quick dont think there should be a problem. Unscrew the screws and get a wide thin blade and go around the edge of the case, I didnt and caused a few marks ont he edges! There are a number of clips that pop open quite easily. The battery is held in place by double sided tape, use the the same blade and carefully prise the battery up. Replacement is a reverse of the procedure, the only tricky bit is the connector is quite small and a bit difficult to locate but not too bad. Hope I have helped. :lol:
Thanks, BadgerBoy1. The backup battery is the key, but how does one determine if it is working and charged? I've searched all over the system for an indicator of the backup battery, to no avail. That begs the next question: If the backup battery is bad, where is it, and can it be replaced?
[Q] NST Battery Replacement
Hi...has anyone replaced its NST battery? how can we find a compatible battery? i've searched and found a battery on amazon (u can see its picture attached) but it's not designed for nst ...its for nook color ...do u have any idea if we can use this for NST ??
No, this won't work. The Nook Touch battery has 6 wires: 2 for positive 2 for the temperature sensor 2 for negative Long life of a lithium battery requires accurately stopping charging. That's why they measure the temperature at the battery. The EPD display is also very temperature dependent. There are tables of waveforms for 0C to 48C to compensate. I haven't figured out if a separate temperature sensor is used for the display. If anybody finds out exactly what the plug is on the battery pack I'd be grateful. If somebody wants to sell/send me the cable off an old pack I'd be grateful too. I'd use it to be able to measure power consumption accurately.
Back cover??? How did you remove your back cover on your nook simple touch to even get to the battery??? I would like to replace the standard 2Gb HD on my Nook touch for a 16Gb. I know how to do all the software requirements, but I don't want to break the plastic. Will I need a specific tool? Taking off the back cover to get to the battery would be very important when my nook becomes 2 years old, and the lithium ion battery won't hold a charge anymore. PLEASE tell me how you got to the battery!!!
The Nook Touch comes apart pretty easily. Use a knife blade and starting at an edge carefully pop off the power button. Underneath is a tiny Torx T-5 screw. Remove that and the back cover simply slides down. The battery is attached to the back cover, so open carefully. I still haven't heard of a source for these batteries yet.
I'm a newbie here so I wont be able to post external links...download the attachment...there's a website address which may help...
From my signiture: The RSS feed for the NookTouch Dev forum is: http://forum.xda-developers.com/exte...&forumids=1201 Interal teardown pics are here: m.techrepublic.com/blog/itdojo/nook-2011-cracking-open-analysis-battery-replaceable-same-processor-as-nook-color/2639 Click to expand... Click to collapse Hope this helps
[Q] Battery or Logic Board failure?
So the other day while minding my own business, I pulled out my phone to use it's calculator for some accounting work. Just as a side note, I keep my phone in my front pocket, and do not wear skinny jeans. When I pulled it out, I looked at the back and it had a crack going down the center of the glass with a slight bulge where the battery is. As soon as I got home, I pulled the battery out and saw that the backside was bulging outwards. It bulged so bad that it managed to crack the glass even with one of those gel-like protectors on it . I tossed it aside and put it my spare battery, which should have been good. This is where the interesting stuff starts happening. Slowly but surely, the lifespan of my battery would get shorter till the point where as soon as I unplugged it, it would die. It got so bad that It would die around 95%. When it would charge, the percentage would vary a lot, making a very interesting graph in the battery app I have. Not only that, but sometimes when I would restart my phone, it would be a completely different percentage than it was before. On top of that, when the phone would die, it would be at a different percentage than when it was still alive. I would have to plug it into a charger in order for it to start up again. If I did not, it would sometimes get into a boot loop where it would say google, turn off, then turn itself back on, rinse and repeat until I held the power button forcing it off. After I changed the battery, I rooted it and put the Carbon nightly rom on it, but in order to eliminate possible problems, I did do a factory reset to the phone to make sure it was either of those. Now I did put a "new" battery from ebay in it, but I am still having the same issue. However, the battery I believe was not new because it still had glue on the back of it from a previous nexus. My actual new battery should be here tomorrow I hope. Could there be a problem with the batteries, or could there be a problem with my logic board? I have tried two different chargers, the LG one provided with the phone, and a rocket fish wall charger, same problem. Attached are two different pictures of the battery graph. The sharp drops are where it dies, and the sawtooth wave is it on charge. (Don't hurt me! I know I'm not supposed to post outside links, but this is absolutely necessary for you wonderful people to help me! Just remove the space in the link and it will work) http: //i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x345/Foxx1996/Screenshot_2014-05-08-19-50-58_zps1fdf4967.png http: //i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x345/Foxx1996/Screenshot_2014-04-28-08-34-42_zps7a396d8d.png
phone dropped in sea worked fine but...
So I dropped my old S2 phone in sea (salt water!). I took almost all precautions in that situations. It dried after few days , I cleaned it gently with a toothbrush (no chemicals as alcohol) and worked fine for couple of days. I managed to save photos and other essential stuff. I noticed in BBS msm_otg wakelock like its charging or connected on USB charger but it suffered of it before. Restart would resolve issue. After dropped in sea it was always there. (Great amount of Samsung phones that generation had/has that wakelock issue/also known as vbus_present because of malfunctioned micro usb port) After a week I couldn't powered it on. When I pulled battery out and left it for couple hours it would power on again and worked for a day. I had to repeat same procedure couple of times and it worked fine but finally phone didn't start any more. I can feel vibration after pressing power button but that's all. If I'm keeping it pressured again for 10 sec it restarts (can feel vibration again) but logo doesn't appear any more. Trick with pulling battery out for even a 24 hours (i presumed it needed to discharge completely) doesn't work anymore. Is it dead or there is somth more I could do? I'm definitely getting new phone but i remembered i had few files on it worth to save. Tnx.
Since the phone is already DOA, try disconnecting the battery, hit the power button a few times to discharge capacitors and wash the main board in distilled water. The water shouldn't present any issues to the circuit board and should remove any sodium or other mineral residues that have probably formed across some of the lands. Dry with a hair dryer on either cool or the lowest heat setting available or allow to air dry. If the power switch is not a part of the board, the water shouldn't hurt it either, clean it out with the distilled. I don't know the effects that the distilled would have on the display circuitry, so I would do the display only as a last resort. Hope this helps.
ctjailer said: Since the phone is already DOA, try disconnecting the battery, hit the power button a few times to discharge capacitors and wash the main board in distilled water. The water shouldn't present any issues to the circuit board and should remove any sodium or other mineral residues that have probably formed across some of the lands. Dry with a hair dryer on either cool or the lowest heat setting available or allow to air dry. If the power switch is not a part of the board, the water shouldn't hurt it either, clean it out with the distilled. I don't know the effects that the distilled would have on the display circuitry, so I would do the display only as a last resort. Hope this helps. Click to expand... Click to collapse Tnx a lot, I'll try that.
ctjailer said: Since the phone is already DOA, try disconnecting the battery, hit the power button a few times to discharge capacitors and wash the main board in distilled water. The water shouldn't present any issues to the circuit board and should remove any sodium or other mineral residues that have probably formed across some of the lands. Dry with a hair dryer on either cool or the lowest heat setting available or allow to air dry. If the power switch is not a part of the board, the water shouldn't hurt it either, clean it out with the distilled. I don't know the effects that the distilled would have on the display circuitry, so I would do the display only as a last resort. Hope this helps. Click to expand... Click to collapse Sir, thank you so much. I followed your instructions and phone booted again. Working like a charm . We'll see for how long. Backuped all needed data. I even noticed that phone went to deep sleep. Even after charging. No need to restart it every time after charging. (I stumbled somewhere on forum that capacitor can be removed, but that's instructions for i9000). Anyway thank you very, very much. Saved me. :good:
Zuk Z2(plus) not charging fix
So my brother's zuk z2 has been broken for months now, and no repair shop could repair the phone. I did a lot of digging and i found out that zuk z2 has a problem with quick charge 3.0 (It technically supports it but it doesn't have the necessary hardware for it) If your zuk z2 (plus) has these symptomes this fix is guaranteed to work Not charging. Not turning on (Sometimes it might turn on). Notification light blinking. Heating in the lower part of the phone near the charging port. (If your zuk doesn't do that, then removing the cx chip will only disable fast charging) The problem:This tiny chip with cx on it: https://i.imgur.com/YD8Eh2b.jpg This chip is responsible for quick charge and it only supports quick charge from the original charger (that is what i was told). When charging with an qc charger it may short out. That is where the heat is coming from. The solution You need to remove that chip. You can just pry on it with a screwdriver and it pops out like its meant to do that. Anyone can do this procedure at home, but you need a phone repair kit(<1$ online). Or you can take your phone to the local repair guy and send them a link to this guide. If you decide to do this by yourself i advise you to watch a teardown video, because there are some plastic tabs that you don't want to break. 1) First off, remove the sim card tray and then you need to remove the back glass, use a hair drier at the lowest setting and heat the lower part of the back of the phone (where the zuk logo is) around the perimeter. When the glass is hot, use a suction cup to lift the glass and then use a plastic tool (only plastic tools) to slice the adhesive. Try the suction cup method 3-4 times with heating, because the suction cup may not be strong enough to lift the glass up. If the suction cup is not strong enough to lift the glass away, use a very thin and short piece of metal, wedge it between the glass and the plastic body (this will slightly damage the plastic) and the glass should pop out if it's hot. Be very careful at the left upper side of the phone (the camera side) because there is the volume and power button ribbon and the battery ribbon. You don't want to damage those. This is maybe the hardest part of this teardown. This is how it looks like once the back cover is off: https://i.imgur.com/XGD5m7F.jpg 2) Because the chip is on the back side of the motherboard you will need to remove almost every component except the battery and some other smaller components. Remove all screws. Attention! one screw is under the battery ribbon. Then try to remove the plastic. The top plastic piece needs to be pulled from the opposite side of the back camera because there is a plastic latch near the back camera. Pull that plastic piece up and then to the left (away from the back camera). The lower plastic piece should be pulled from the upper most part, but it should be pulled first up and then pulled towards the top side. If the piece doesn't move you need to remove residual adhesive or try to remove the lower plastic piece from the headphone jack side. This is how it should look like without the plastic top cover: https://i.imgur.com/qEtXTg7.jpg This is how it looks like without the bottom plastic piece:https://i.imgur.com/RlVhDQK.jpg The problematic chip is in the red circle, but it is on the other side of the motherboard. 3)Unclip the connections, the antenna connectors, and the selfie camera. By this point you should have removed the sim card tray, if not remove it NOW. 4)Remove the motherboard with the back camera (its held with some copper tape). Inspect the charging port. It should look something like this: https://i.imgur.com/bKiN5tG.jpg The chip is very small. This is how the chip looks like when removed: https://i.imgur.com/fCSJBds.jpg This is the chip you want to remove: The one with CX on it! This chip: https://i.imgur.com/YD8Eh2b.jpg 5)Remove the chip with something made out of metal, like a screwdriver. 6)Reassemble the phone and enjoy your charging phone. Also this is why you would want to do it yourself. This is what a "repair guy" did to the phone: https://i.imgur.com/5BiMn6s.jpg He said that there was a short on the motherboard and the phone is completely dead. The phone works, but now i don't have a power/volume button. He obviously used a metal tool, as seen by the scratches left on the metal inside the phone. So don't use a metal tool. Edit: Removing this chip will only disable fast charging, if your device is perfectly working, or has different symptomes, don't remove this chip. Edit2: The thread was broken,(only one image was showing). My dumb ass inserted the images wrongly.
Will removing this enable quick charge 3.0 support on our device ?
troublesom said: Will removing this enable quick charge 3.0 support on our device ? Click to expand... Click to collapse No
My phone is bot charging. So will removing this chip make it charging again?? And how it is so that without that chip it will work properly??
Does OTG work after removing it?
Sandeep7974 said: My phone is bot charging. So will removing this chip make it charging again?? And how it is so that without that chip it will work properly?? Click to expand... Click to collapse Don't remove it .it regulates charging speed and safety
spandu500 said: Does OTG work after removing it? Click to expand... Click to collapse It does.
zuk z2 plus thanks bro its work for me
It did not work for me, unfortunately. I removed the black part of the chip and the problem continued, just stopped blinking the led and vibrated continuously. I removed the silver part of the chip and nothing, it continued in the same way without charging. But I figured out a way to charge it, I entered the TWRP menu, (by clicking on the power button to enter the recovery it would turn off, then I pressed the button to enter the recovery, it hung up and when it was already on the twrp). At the TWRP recovery I connected the charger, and then the ZUK started charging the battery more slowly than normal, but it charged 100%. I have it for at least 2 years, I always used the original charger, only 2 or 3 months I changed the cable that broke. So I believe this is not a hardware problem, but a software problem. I use the Cardinal rom, but it seems that this happens in any rom ...
Isaías J. said: It did not work for me, unfortunately. I removed the black part of the chip and the problem continued, just stopped blinking the led and vibrated continuously. I removed the silver part of the chip and nothing, it continued in the same way without charging. But I figured out a way to charge it, I entered the TWRP menu, (by clicking on the power button to enter the recovery it would turn off, then I pressed the button to enter the recovery, it hung up and when it was already on the twrp). At the TWRP recovery I connected the charger, and then the ZUK started charging the battery more slowly than normal, but it charged 100%. I have it for at least 2 years, I always used the original charger, only 2 or 3 months I changed the cable that broke. So I believe this is not a hardware problem, but a software problem. I use the Cardinal rom, but it seems that this happens in any rom ... Click to expand... Click to collapse I am sorry for you. I really don't know if there can be such a software problem. (have you tried clean flashing?) Did your phone heat up a lot when charging in the usb area? Did the procedure fix the heating? If it charges in any way, that is not a hardware problem. Are you using any kind of rom tweaking apps (like kernel adiutor or smartpack kernel manager) if yes check in the battery section if charging is enabled or just uninstall them. Try flashing the stock rom. I know it is a pain in the butt to try all of these things, especially if your zuk is your primary phone (my zuk is not my primary phone and it has a problem with flashing custom roms that i haven't fixed in months)
I didn't try the original rom, it's too bad. It also has no kernel or overclocking app. Moreover, the device did not heat up in the usb area, only in the area of the processor, when it was charging, was always like this. What made a difference before the problem was that it got too hot, especially playing pupg, which I've done a lot in the last few days, and then he hung up. He always hung up, but it was rare to happen, days before the problem he started to hang up almost every day. But I have something new, I saw the gmail notification of your message yesterday, so today I came to respond. The device was in the TWRP menu, charging, I turned on the system and the led turned on. As I write the battery charged 10%! JoraForever said: I am sorry for you. I really don't know if there can be such a software problem. (have you tried clean flashing?) Did your phone heat up a lot when charging in the usb area? Did the procedure fix the heating? If it charges in any way, that is not a hardware problem. Are you using any kind of rom tweaking apps (like kernel adiutor or smartpack kernel manager) if yes check in the battery section if charging is enabled or just uninstall them. Try flashing the stock rom. I know it is a pain in the butt to try all of these things, especially if your zuk is your primary phone (my zuk is not my primary phone and it has a problem with flashing custom roms that i haven't fixed in months) Click to expand... Click to collapse
And the problem returns.
thank you i try remove the cx chip and it work after remove it charging decreased a bit from 2100 ma to 1980 ma and volt from 4.4 to 4.1:fingers-crossed::fingers-crossed:
Working, thanks!
it worked for me! many thanks!
JoraForever said: So my brother's zuk z2 has been broken for months now, and no repair shop could repair the phone. I did a lot of digging and i found out that zuk z2 has a problem with quick charge 3.0 (It technically supports it but it doesn't have the necessary hardware for it) If your zuk z2 (plus) has these symptomes this fix is guaranteed to work Not charging. Not turning on (Sometimes it might turn on). Notification light blinking. Heating in the lower part of the phone near the charging port. (If your zuk doesn't do that, then removing the cx chip will only disable fast charging) The problem:This tiny chip with cx on it: https://i.imgur.com/YD8Eh2b.jpg This chip is responsible for quick charge and it only supports quick charge from the original charger (that is what i was told). When charging with an qc charger it may short out. That is where the heat is coming from. The solution You need to remove that chip. You can just pry on it with a screwdriver and it pops out like its meant to do that. Anyone can do this procedure at home, but you need a phone repair kit(<1$ online). Or you can take your phone to the local repair guy and send them a link to this guide. If you decide to do this by yourself i advise you to watch a teardown video, because there are some plastic tabs that you don't want to break. 1) First off, remove the sim card tray and then you need to remove the back glass, use a hair drier at the lowest setting and heat the lower part of the back of the phone (where the zuk logo is) around the perimeter. When the glass is hot, use a suction cup to lift the glass and then use a plastic tool (only plastic tools) to slice the adhesive. Try the suction cup method 3-4 times with heating, because the suction cup may not be strong enough to lift the glass up. If the suction cup is not strong enough to lift the glass away, use a very thin and short piece of metal, wedge it between the glass and the plastic body (this will slightly damage the plastic) and the glass should pop out if it's hot. Be very careful at the left upper side of the phone (the camera side) because there is the volume and power button ribbon and the battery ribbon. You don't want to damage those. This is maybe the hardest part of this teardown. This is how it looks like once the back cover is off: https://i.imgur.com/XGD5m7F.jpg 2) Because the chip is on the back side of the motherboard you will need to remove almost every component except the battery and some other smaller components. Remove all screws. Attention! one screw is under the battery ribbon. Then try to remove the plastic. The top plastic piece needs to be pulled from the opposite side of the back camera because there is a plastic latch near the back camera. Pull that plastic piece up and then to the left (away from the back camera). The lower plastic piece should be pulled from the upper most part, but it should be pulled first up and then pulled towards the top side. If the piece doesn't move you need to remove residual adhesive or try to remove the lower plastic piece from the headphone jack side. This is how it should look like without the plastic top cover: https://i.imgur.com/qEtXTg7.jpg This is how it looks like without the bottom plastic piece:https://i.imgur.com/RlVhDQK.jpg The problematic chip is in the red circle, but it is on the other side of the motherboard. 3)Unclip the connections, the antenna connectors, and the selfie camera. By this point you should have removed the sim card tray, if not remove it NOW. 4)Remove the motherboard with the back camera (its held with some copper tape). Inspect the charging port. It should look something like this: https://i.imgur.com/bKiN5tG.jpg The chip is very small. This is how the chip looks like when removed: https://i.imgur.com/fCSJBds.jpg This is the chip you want to remove: The one with CX on it! This chip: https://i.imgur.com/YD8Eh2b.jpg 5)Remove the chip with something made out of metal, like a screwdriver. 6)Reassemble the phone and enjoy your charging phone. Also this is why you would want to do it yourself. This is what a "repair guy" did to the phone: https://i.imgur.com/5BiMn6s.jpg He said that there was a short on the motherboard and the phone is completely dead. The phone works, but now i don't have a power/volume button. He obviously used a metal tool, as seen by the scratches left on the metal inside the phone. So don't use a metal tool. Edit: Removing this chip will only disable fast charging, if your device is perfectly working, or has different symptomes, don't remove this chip. Edit2: The thread was broken,(only one image was showing). My dumb ass inserted the images wrongly. Click to expand... Click to collapse Thank you so much for this post, I have just done this and my zuk is charging again! Thank you sir for this post! :fingers-crossed: :good:
I deleted this chip, but after that it stopped connecting to the PC. The drivers all stood, the cable was working. Then I had the urge to change the firmware to https://forum.xda-developers.com/le...rom-flyme-7-3-0-0a-zuk-z2-plus-bylzy-t3923861, but he went into the bootloop, and then probably the battery played Darth Vader in Return of the Jedi.
Removal of the chip fixed my ZUK as well! Thank you TS!!!
I must really thank you for the guide. My phone stopped charging suddenly, tried different cables, chargers, etc and none worked. I was about to go buy a new phone and somehow stumbled on this thread. After a few days getting the courage to open the phone, i did it, followed the guide and now it is charging!! Thank you very much!!!
Big thanks, my zuk is now working again :good: