Hello,
I have recently bought a new hizpo head unit off ebay for my 2004 Lexus ES330, the car has a built in Pioneer amp, and I installed it using the TYTO-01 wiring harness. All the conections are good with no issues but there is a problem going on and im not sure what the source is or how to fix it. Multiple times a day, when I start the car there is no sound from the head unit at all, no system sound bluetooth sound radio sound or anything else. It is dead silent. This doesnt occure every time i start the car but it happens 2/3 of the time. I did some trouble shooting and this is what i have figured out, the sound works again if the head unit is restarted through the rst button with a paperclip. I can also get it to work by stopping the car completley and starting it again but this doesn't always work and takes multiple trials. The other way it will work without ****ting it off and powering back up is by disconnecting the blue/white wire from the head unit and reconnecting it. This wire is the amp connector wire from the head unit to the factory amp of the car.
Any suggestions would be much apreciated, thanks!
Hi, perhaps the amp "turn on" wire could be connected to a accessories 12V wire so that every time the accessories voltage turns on the amp is also on, regardless if the head unit turns it on or not. The blue/white wire should be the amp "turn on" trigger wire, the amp does not get power from it, it only gets out of standby if the blue white has 12V on it. Accessories wire from the car side for me has been red, and the main positive is yellow. You can test the red wire with a multimeter to see if it turns off and on when turning the car key. The head unit also uses the accessories voltage to know when it should turn on the screen from standby.
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I've seen this pop up else where, no one seems to know how to fix it. I have an XTrons PB65WRJAP, it's a MTCD/MTCE PX5.
Tempted to just cut the canbus power line and connect it to 12V ACC so the HU(headunit) gets no power until I turn on the ignition.
I've contacted XTrons a few times. They keep telling me to do the same following thing:
Disconnect the CANbus decoder box, as that's "always" the issue. So I tried that, HU wouldn't power up without the CANBus decoder attached, because it sends power to the ACC-in wire, which tells the HU to turn on, or wake up. So I wired the ACC-in wire up manually, and the HU powered up, and still drained power. So it seems to me it is the HU itself which is the issue, not the CANBus.
So I was wondering if anyone else had this issue, where their head unit would drain power, and if you actually fixed it or not?
Okay, so I tried the "VW" mod for this issue. Which is cutting the yellow wire that goes to the CANbus box, and wiring that up to 12V accessory. That sorta worked, the headunit now seems to fully turn off, but there is still a bit of a drain.
Pretty sure its revolving around the factory amp, since one of the audio signal channels is sitting around 11.5V when it should be off.
I believe I have figured out my issue at least.
The first part I already talked about, using the VW mod where you cut the yellow wire.
Now for the mystery drain, and I'm pretty sure this is it, it seems that my factory amp, which is controlled via canbus, isn't being told to turn off. So either the Head Unit isn't telling the canbus decoder to issue a turn off command, or the canbus decoder isn't issuing the right turn off command.
Good morning everyone!
I have a 2003 BMW 5-Series with an Xtrons Android 8.0 headunit attached to a JL Audio amp. Since the headunit was new, I have always experienced a faint chirping noise in the speakers.
Through trial and error, I found that the issue might be associated with the I-Bus system (BMWs older version of CanBus) in the car because the chirping/buzzing/electrical feedback activity is increased when I communicate with the car through OBDII and my diagnosis software on my laptop.
I know the issue is not my amplifier because when I disconnect the RCA connections at the back of the head unit, the noises go away. The noises also do not change with the volume level of the headunit (exactly the same at 0 volume, and at high volume with no audio playing).
The headunit is grounded via the ground wire on the wiring harness directly to the frame behind the headunit. Interestingly, when I disconnect the ground from the chassis, the headunit does not shut off. It appears to also be grounding through the antenna wire, as the unit will shut off when I also disconnect the antenna. With the ground wire connected to the chassis, and the antenna disconnected, the background noise is still present.
I am posting because I know many of you have experience with troubleshooting and hardware modifications with your own Chinese Android headunits. My hope is that one of you may have experience similar issues with background noise and may have a few things for me to try. My next step was going to try to be using a ground loop isolator on the ground wire. I have tried ground loop isolators on the RCAs, but that had no effect.
Sorry for my ramblings, thanks for your help!!
After my car had been unused for a couple of months I got this strange problem. I realize that it might be a hardware fault, but maybe there is some clever solution to override it.
I have always had a small "pop" when turning on the head lights, but now the sound completely dies too. No sound from FM radio or any other music app. But if I put the head unit in standby and then turn it on the sound is back.
Also if I turn mute ON I can hear the sound very, very quiet, but if I turn mute OFF the sound is gone again.
I have tried different MCUs, stock Android 9 and 10, and Malaysk 10, no difference. I have tried to turn brightness adjustment off in MCU settings, instead of being controlled by the head lights.
My head unit is a PX6 MTCE with MTCE_CHS 3.75 MCU.
The head unit is connected to OEM amplifier through fiber optic converter.
Any ideas what to try next?
I am very thankful for any input.
I'd check the optical signal remains when the headlights are on. That will confirm it is nothing downstream of that.
I'd also be checking the voltage drop at the car battery when the lights are turned on. That will give an indication about the *possibility* of the head unit or a specific component of the HU going into a safety mode due to low juice.
Does the same thing happen when just the parking lights rather than the full headlights go on?
Report back on voltage and draw at the car battery if you can and go from there.
Thank you for your input.
I have checked the voltage drop when turning on the headlights, and it's just about 0,1 - 0, 2 V.
Just turning on the parking lights does not kill the sound.
When I start the car I have a much bigger drop, and it doesn't affect the sound, as long as the head lights are turned off.
Since I can hear the sound with really low volume when mute is on, I guess that means that the fiber optic converter works.
You mentioned in your original post that you still had some sound on mute.. agreed with you - wine last night confused me.
You don't say was the voltage actually drops to, just the amount it drops by. But if the car starts, you may assume that it is not charge.
I'm guessing the wrong car is chosen via software for the Canbus. Maybe you can offer more details. That sort of info is free and can help others.
Actual voltage
Car type, model and year
Current canbus car choice in setup
Anything else non standard
Any non standard connections to the wiring looms.
ludditefornow said:
You mentioned in your original post that you still had some sound on mute.. agreed with you - wine last night confused me.
You don't say was the voltage actually drops to, just the amount it drops by. But if the car starts, you may assume that it is not charge.
I'm guessing the wrong car is chosen via software for the Canbus. Maybe you can offer more details. That sort of info is free and can help others.
Actual voltage
Car type, model and year
Current canbus car choice in setup
Anything else non standard
Any non standard connections to the wiring looms.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your suggestions!
I have done some more troubleshooting and now I am thinking that it's more likely to be some kind of grounding issue (or a bad mainboard) than a canbus problem. Because sometimes when I plug in an USB drive or an USB cable (not connected to anything) there is a "bang" and the sound dies, as it does when turning on the head lights.
I made a new grounding wire and mounted it directly to a ground point in the car chassis, instead of using the one from the OEM cable harness., but no difference. Car on or off does not matter and I also tried with an power supply connected to the car battery.
Should I try to ground the head unit better and where to put the wire then? Would the head unit chassis be enough or is it necessary to open it up and connect it somewhere on the mainboard?
I'd be disconnecting as much as possible and just feeding a power ground and an ACC feed.
Hook up speakers only and see what the result is.
Add one component at a time and test again. Might be easier to check initially out of the car and using a constant 12v power source or even an old PC ATX PSU. They have 12v and 5v rails.
I don't think adding more ground will change much.
ludditefornow said:
I'd be disconnecting as much as possible and just feeding a power ground and an ACC feed.
Hook up speakers only and see what the result is.
Add one component at a time and test again. Might be easier to check initially out of the car and using a constant 12v power source or even an old PC ATX PSU. They have 12v and 5v rails.
I don't think adding more ground will change much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried this yesterday, but with the head unit still in the car. Disconnected everything but the fiber optics converter and power. I had no problems when turning on the head lights, I tried many times. Sound did not die. Still some weird sounds when using USB drive though.
I made an extra wire from the ground wire and mounted it at one of the screws at the back of the head unit. I connected everything back except the FM antenna connector. I suspected it could be interfering because the amplified OEM FM antenna is connected to a control unit in the car which is also managing car lights.
After this I had no problems at all for the rest of the evening. Tried turning on the head lights when driving and with the engine off. Plugged in USB drive and USB cable. Sound dit not die and no noise when using USB.
Today the problem with dying sound when turning on head lights was back.
My feeling is that this issue is much more likely to happen when the head unit (and the car) is cold. If the car has been driven so the temperature inside is around 20 degrees for a period of time, or if it has been standing in the sun so the interior is warm, it is very rare that turning on the head lights affects the sound.
Probably u have heard this already before.
Recently puchased an Aycetry PX6 with DSP HU unit but looks like it's a Wondefoo actually that had a really rough start in the beginning.
Seller told me beforehand that I'll need some adapter to power my half bose system(I didnt really understand this why cause I saw a low of videos with HU's that could power an Audi amp), then when the unit arrived it didnt want to start at all until a car electrician moved a cable to a different pin and reconnected a blackplug into the second one(pictures below)(ACC).
The only thing that remains now is the rear speakers who's volume sounds 30-35% or so lower.
I noticed that if my engine is OFF I dont really have good radio signal. The blue wire that powers the radio antena only has 11.5 V(maybe) in this state. Once I turn ON the engine the blue wire of the radio antena has 13.5V and I have very good radio signal.
I tought something similar is the problem with the rear speakers as well so I measured the blue/white wire that connects to the white cable in the iso harness which should power the amp and in both states of the engine, on or off, I have 13.5V.
So I'm not sure what exactly is the problem here. The seller did offer me some adapter for 10 USD but if the blue/white wire that goes to the white wire in the iso harness already has 13.5V then where exactly is the problem. Or does my amp need more V's?
Please offer some suggetions here.
The unit really sounds good, made a bunch of video upgrading my 1DIN cage to a 2DIN cage and would like to close this matter so I may finish editing my videos.
Rear speakers playing as loud as front speakers will destroy your stereo stage.
So if you are serious about sound guality you want your rear speaker at low volume.
13.5V should not cause any problems. But I would definitely not power any amp from the head unit. Car amps normally have a "remote" signal input that doesn't really pull any power but tells the amp to turn on. Car amps draws a lot of current through a heavy gauge wire directly from the battery.
So I am pretty sure the "amp wire" from your head unit is designed as a remote signal telling the amp to turn on.
Bad things are likely to happen if you draw any significant power through the tiny amp remote wire so I would check how the amp was powered with the OEM headunit and use the OEM power wire. Alternatively you could run a new heavy gauge wire directly from battery to your amps power input.
You could install a simple NO relay to solve the low antenna voltage with engine of problem.
Thank you for your answer.
With the original cd-player front and rear speaker had the same volume. So I guess the audio system was designed to work this way.
However, new HU has a different design which was clear from the start since I had troubles event starting it up and now I must find some way to overcome it.
I was hoping to find someone else that had similar issues.
The low antenna voltage while engine is OFF is not a problem for me. Mostly I listen to music and rarely radio and since the car is ON doesn't really matter.
Hello,
I have Android head unit for Peugeot 407, it's PX5 and running on Android 9.0. Issue I'm having for some time is that I have seperate amp and sub attached to it. I have taken 12V signal to turn it on from head unit's I think antenna or something that gave out 12V whenever it was turned on. I sometimes play music louder and after some time subwoofer just cuts off and it remains playing on normal car speakers. I checked already if maybe amp overheats but it doesn't as when I restart the unit (turn car off then on) the signal is back on and it can play again for some time before it cutsoff again. Also other interesting thing is that my rear speakers are not working at all on head unit... the weren't working for quite a long while, not sure if they have correct wiring on that adapter that comes with it to plug it to car. I was thinking of bridging the front and rear speakers together since I don't want them not playing as i've bought them new after my factory ones rotted out. They were working when I had my factory radio in few years back.