I've seen this pop up else where, no one seems to know how to fix it. I have an XTrons PB65WRJAP, it's a MTCD/MTCE PX5.
Tempted to just cut the canbus power line and connect it to 12V ACC so the HU(headunit) gets no power until I turn on the ignition.
I've contacted XTrons a few times. They keep telling me to do the same following thing:
Disconnect the CANbus decoder box, as that's "always" the issue. So I tried that, HU wouldn't power up without the CANBus decoder attached, because it sends power to the ACC-in wire, which tells the HU to turn on, or wake up. So I wired the ACC-in wire up manually, and the HU powered up, and still drained power. So it seems to me it is the HU itself which is the issue, not the CANBus.
So I was wondering if anyone else had this issue, where their head unit would drain power, and if you actually fixed it or not?
Okay, so I tried the "VW" mod for this issue. Which is cutting the yellow wire that goes to the CANbus box, and wiring that up to 12V accessory. That sorta worked, the headunit now seems to fully turn off, but there is still a bit of a drain.
Pretty sure its revolving around the factory amp, since one of the audio signal channels is sitting around 11.5V when it should be off.
I believe I have figured out my issue at least.
The first part I already talked about, using the VW mod where you cut the yellow wire.
Now for the mystery drain, and I'm pretty sure this is it, it seems that my factory amp, which is controlled via canbus, isn't being told to turn off. So either the Head Unit isn't telling the canbus decoder to issue a turn off command, or the canbus decoder isn't issuing the right turn off command.
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Hello,
I have recently bought a new hizpo head unit off ebay for my 2004 Lexus ES330, the car has a built in Pioneer amp, and I installed it using the TYTO-01 wiring harness. All the conections are good with no issues but there is a problem going on and im not sure what the source is or how to fix it. Multiple times a day, when I start the car there is no sound from the head unit at all, no system sound bluetooth sound radio sound or anything else. It is dead silent. This doesnt occure every time i start the car but it happens 2/3 of the time. I did some trouble shooting and this is what i have figured out, the sound works again if the head unit is restarted through the rst button with a paperclip. I can also get it to work by stopping the car completley and starting it again but this doesn't always work and takes multiple trials. The other way it will work without ****ting it off and powering back up is by disconnecting the blue/white wire from the head unit and reconnecting it. This wire is the amp connector wire from the head unit to the factory amp of the car.
Any suggestions would be much apreciated, thanks!
Hi, perhaps the amp "turn on" wire could be connected to a accessories 12V wire so that every time the accessories voltage turns on the amp is also on, regardless if the head unit turns it on or not. The blue/white wire should be the amp "turn on" trigger wire, the amp does not get power from it, it only gets out of standby if the blue white has 12V on it. Accessories wire from the car side for me has been red, and the main positive is yellow. You can test the red wire with a multimeter to see if it turns off and on when turning the car key. The head unit also uses the accessories voltage to know when it should turn on the screen from standby.
I am replacing an old 4.4.2 Joying head unit with their new px5 4GB unit.
The wiring diagrams are identical as are the wiring harnesses so I figured I could just unplug the iso connection from the old and plug the new one in.
I get power but no audio. The external factory amp doesn’t seem to be powering on because with the old I would get a slight sound in the speakers as the head unit came fully on in the main screen.
Any ideas? I was going to start testing the pin outs but I just don’t get what could be different.
TheCleaner said:
I am replacing an old 4.4.2 Joying head unit with their new px5 4GB unit.
The wiring diagrams are identical as are the wiring harnesses so I figured I could just unplug the iso connection from the old and plug the new one in.
I get power but no audio. The external factory amp doesn’t seem to be powering on because with the old I would get a slight sound in the speakers as the head unit came fully on in the main screen.
Any ideas? I was going to start testing the pin outs but I just don’t get what could be different.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FYI, to close this out for others. The issue was the AMP CONT pin wasn't supplying 12 volts with the radio on. Tested with a multimeter. Frustrating, and trying to deal with Joying support to send something like this back to China is a PITA.
So, to deal with it I ended up cutting AMP CONT right before the fuse, and then splicing it into the red/accessory wire. Same effect. Good to go now.
TheCleaner said:
FYI, to close this out for others. The issue was the AMP CONT pin wasn't supplying 12 volts with the radio on. Tested with a multimeter. Frustrating, and trying to deal with Joying support to send something like this back to China is a PITA.
So, to deal with it I ended up cutting AMP CONT right before the fuse, and then splicing it into the red/accessory wire. Same effect. Good to go now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same problem here. I emailed joying support no help yet. I was looking for a setting in car setup that used to be in the android 6 units to tell it you wanted the external amp trigger enabled - I could not find that setting in the new Joying Android 8 unit.
sounds exactly like my issue I have posted on Joying forums and have a long chat with Candy at Joying. I am at a loss because the radio app when it comes on plays just fine via my external amp and sub. But when I switch to spotify or bluetooth audio. I get nothing. then if I mute and unmute I get audio to my front and rears but nothing to my subwoofer. I was looking for the external amp settings like I had in my 6.1 Android unit. Nothing. Dont want to send it back because it is fast and looks great. If I do send it back, I am just going to go with Seicane.
Hello all this worked for me. Try taking the top cover off the head unit and look on the board for the round sticker on top of the MCU (in my case the sticker said TP6735D v43-6686) and search the sticker info. Download only the MCU update with the same sticker info (in my case I needed TP6735D v43) after update the sound is working again. Not sure why the website MCU update takes out the sound. Good thing is, you can rollback . Hope this helps.
Playing music from USB will wake our factory amp, but radio station music does not. What would cause this? Is there a way to get radio to wake amp? I think(?) Amp Cont wire is unconnected.
Just installed my new xtrons android 9.0 headunit today everything is working apart from everytime I connect the amp control wire from my subwoofer to the amp con wire on the back of the headunit the system seems to have a bootloop. The unit will load up and just restart. I know its this wire because without it attached the headunit works ok. Tried to do some research but can't find anything, help it's driving me mad! Just want to use my subwoofer again!
I've just got an Xtrons PSP90M245 to go in my Vito and I'm having exactly the same problem. With mine, if I let it boot up first, then connect the wire it works fine.
I wonder if there is a big voltage drop as a number of things try and power up simultaneouslly that causes the head unit to go low on power? I hear a few other things try and start too, like the fan on the ECU at exactly the same time.
Did you ever get yours resolved?
After my car had been unused for a couple of months I got this strange problem. I realize that it might be a hardware fault, but maybe there is some clever solution to override it.
I have always had a small "pop" when turning on the head lights, but now the sound completely dies too. No sound from FM radio or any other music app. But if I put the head unit in standby and then turn it on the sound is back.
Also if I turn mute ON I can hear the sound very, very quiet, but if I turn mute OFF the sound is gone again.
I have tried different MCUs, stock Android 9 and 10, and Malaysk 10, no difference. I have tried to turn brightness adjustment off in MCU settings, instead of being controlled by the head lights.
My head unit is a PX6 MTCE with MTCE_CHS 3.75 MCU.
The head unit is connected to OEM amplifier through fiber optic converter.
Any ideas what to try next?
I am very thankful for any input.
I'd check the optical signal remains when the headlights are on. That will confirm it is nothing downstream of that.
I'd also be checking the voltage drop at the car battery when the lights are turned on. That will give an indication about the *possibility* of the head unit or a specific component of the HU going into a safety mode due to low juice.
Does the same thing happen when just the parking lights rather than the full headlights go on?
Report back on voltage and draw at the car battery if you can and go from there.
Thank you for your input.
I have checked the voltage drop when turning on the headlights, and it's just about 0,1 - 0, 2 V.
Just turning on the parking lights does not kill the sound.
When I start the car I have a much bigger drop, and it doesn't affect the sound, as long as the head lights are turned off.
Since I can hear the sound with really low volume when mute is on, I guess that means that the fiber optic converter works.
You mentioned in your original post that you still had some sound on mute.. agreed with you - wine last night confused me.
You don't say was the voltage actually drops to, just the amount it drops by. But if the car starts, you may assume that it is not charge.
I'm guessing the wrong car is chosen via software for the Canbus. Maybe you can offer more details. That sort of info is free and can help others.
Actual voltage
Car type, model and year
Current canbus car choice in setup
Anything else non standard
Any non standard connections to the wiring looms.
ludditefornow said:
You mentioned in your original post that you still had some sound on mute.. agreed with you - wine last night confused me.
You don't say was the voltage actually drops to, just the amount it drops by. But if the car starts, you may assume that it is not charge.
I'm guessing the wrong car is chosen via software for the Canbus. Maybe you can offer more details. That sort of info is free and can help others.
Actual voltage
Car type, model and year
Current canbus car choice in setup
Anything else non standard
Any non standard connections to the wiring looms.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your suggestions!
I have done some more troubleshooting and now I am thinking that it's more likely to be some kind of grounding issue (or a bad mainboard) than a canbus problem. Because sometimes when I plug in an USB drive or an USB cable (not connected to anything) there is a "bang" and the sound dies, as it does when turning on the head lights.
I made a new grounding wire and mounted it directly to a ground point in the car chassis, instead of using the one from the OEM cable harness., but no difference. Car on or off does not matter and I also tried with an power supply connected to the car battery.
Should I try to ground the head unit better and where to put the wire then? Would the head unit chassis be enough or is it necessary to open it up and connect it somewhere on the mainboard?
I'd be disconnecting as much as possible and just feeding a power ground and an ACC feed.
Hook up speakers only and see what the result is.
Add one component at a time and test again. Might be easier to check initially out of the car and using a constant 12v power source or even an old PC ATX PSU. They have 12v and 5v rails.
I don't think adding more ground will change much.
ludditefornow said:
I'd be disconnecting as much as possible and just feeding a power ground and an ACC feed.
Hook up speakers only and see what the result is.
Add one component at a time and test again. Might be easier to check initially out of the car and using a constant 12v power source or even an old PC ATX PSU. They have 12v and 5v rails.
I don't think adding more ground will change much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried this yesterday, but with the head unit still in the car. Disconnected everything but the fiber optics converter and power. I had no problems when turning on the head lights, I tried many times. Sound did not die. Still some weird sounds when using USB drive though.
I made an extra wire from the ground wire and mounted it at one of the screws at the back of the head unit. I connected everything back except the FM antenna connector. I suspected it could be interfering because the amplified OEM FM antenna is connected to a control unit in the car which is also managing car lights.
After this I had no problems at all for the rest of the evening. Tried turning on the head lights when driving and with the engine off. Plugged in USB drive and USB cable. Sound dit not die and no noise when using USB.
Today the problem with dying sound when turning on head lights was back.
My feeling is that this issue is much more likely to happen when the head unit (and the car) is cold. If the car has been driven so the temperature inside is around 20 degrees for a period of time, or if it has been standing in the sun so the interior is warm, it is very rare that turning on the head lights affects the sound.
Hello,
I have Android head unit for Peugeot 407, it's PX5 and running on Android 9.0. Issue I'm having for some time is that I have seperate amp and sub attached to it. I have taken 12V signal to turn it on from head unit's I think antenna or something that gave out 12V whenever it was turned on. I sometimes play music louder and after some time subwoofer just cuts off and it remains playing on normal car speakers. I checked already if maybe amp overheats but it doesn't as when I restart the unit (turn car off then on) the signal is back on and it can play again for some time before it cutsoff again. Also other interesting thing is that my rear speakers are not working at all on head unit... the weren't working for quite a long while, not sure if they have correct wiring on that adapter that comes with it to plug it to car. I was thinking of bridging the front and rear speakers together since I don't want them not playing as i've bought them new after my factory ones rotted out. They were working when I had my factory radio in few years back.