Hi all.
I need some advice on the following. I purchased a JY-UL135N2 from you in March this year. The unit ran ok for the first few months the usual software instability but nothing too bad. I then upgraded to the September first software and that’s around the time the issues started. The unit would regularly freeze or not complete its boot-up cycle and reset itself to factory defaults.
Now I live in Melbourne Australia and it gets hot here and is very warm in the car. Reading about the cooling issues in the units I assumed heat must be a contributing factor. Sure enough CPUZ read the temps of all the CPU cores at 90 degrees Celsius when idle. Seeing this I powered down the unit removed it and left it on the work bench until I had time to add a cooling solution.
So eventually my order of Arctic silver thermal epoxy as well as my 120mm fan arrived. I had an old socket 478 intel cooler which I cut in half to use as a heatsink.
Before I go any further I must stress IT is my background and I have install and re-paired may devices in my time so I am not a novice at this.
Before I went to install it all I started the unit once more on the bench (wired correctly) and nothing. It would not start it was unresponsive with no sound, buttons lights off, black screen. I also tried it in the car and nothing. I can hear a power buzz from it but that is it. I put in a usb memory stick in the unit hoping it might go to recovery but the stick gets no power the unit is completely dead.
I have contacted Joying who have very kindly responded but it is a bit of over and back with trying things and the language barrier (I have requested a new motherboard which I can install but I am waiting on a response). I am happy to pay for the delivery which I know is their policy.
Now I think the motherboard is cooked. Could It be a cold solder issue (I am happy to fire up the rework station and try re solder it but where?. Advice please
Thanks
Zeroasylum
Related
Hey guys,
I've been reading threw some posts about some HD2's locking up when they get to hot. I generally stream audio to my phone while I'm driving home and have the phone plugged in charging. I have been having alot of lockups generally 1 a day now since summer started. I installed Battery Booster and generally when the phone gets to 106-108 degrees F it will lock up. Only way to restart it is to pull the battery and restart it. On one occasion it would not reboot till I held the phone in front of the A/C vent and cooled it off.
I seen the post about the solder problem on the cpu and wondering if anybody else had problems at 108 degrees with locking up. I used to use a Otterbox Defender case but recently I have it out to try to keep it as cool as possible. Anybody else with this problem? Phone at idle shows 90 degrees F.
Mike
Radio 2.12.50.02_2
Android Nand - Imilka's Ram Desire HD v2.0
waynestatemac said:
Hey guys,
I've been reading threw some posts about some HD2's locking up when they get to hot. I generally stream audio to my phone while I'm driving home and have the phone plugged in charging. I have been having alot of lockups generally 1 a day now since summer started. I installed Battery Booster and generally when the phone gets to 106-108 degrees F it will lock up. Only way to restart it is to pull the battery and restart it. On one occasion it would not reboot till I held the phone in front of the A/C vent and cooled it off.
I seen the post about the solder problem on the cpu and wondering if anybody else had problems at 108 degrees with locking up. I used to use a Otterbox Defender case but recently I have it out to try to keep it as cool as possible. Anybody else with this problem? Phone at idle shows 90 degrees F.
Mike
Radio 2.12.50.02_2
Android Nand - Imilka's Ram Desire HD v2.0
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 108 degrees is a little concerning. My phone doesn't go above 99 and I live in some hot ass weather. It usually sits at 93-95 degrees even when I'm streaming audio/charging etc...Is your phone still under warranty by any chance?
waynestatemac said:
I've been reading threw some posts about some HD2's locking up when they get to hot. I generally stream audio to my phone while I'm driving home and have the phone plugged in charging. I have been having alot of lockups generally 1 a day now since summer started. I installed Battery Booster and generally when the phone gets to 106-108 degrees F it will lock up. Only way to restart it is to pull the battery and restart it. On one occasion it would not reboot till I held the phone in front of the A/C vent and cooled it off.
I seen the post about the solder problem on the cpu and wondering if anybody else had problems at 108 degrees with locking up. I used to use a Otterbox Defender case but recently I have it out to try to keep it as cool as possible. Anybody else with this problem? Phone at idle shows 90 degrees F.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
from my experience phone temps seem normal, I'd even seen post from some guy in tropics reaching up to 122,
however resets at 106-108 suggest faulty mainboard, is you device still under warranty? if so have it repaired (mainboard replacement in my case), if not I'd rather discourage at home soldering - tried very similar thing with my laptop, which helped but only for two weeks, specialsed equipment keeping precise temperatures is necessary to make it work
I have had the same symptoms with my old car-charger. The HD2 was overheating and resets. It was because of a faulty charger. After replacing the charger, the HD2 never went too hot again.
sframbo said:
I have had the same symptoms with my old car-charger. The HD2 was overheating and resets. It was because of a faulty charger. After replacing the charger, the HD2 never went too hot again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am still very cautious about connecting my HD2 to a car charger, as an electrical spike from the car going through the charger damaged the USB port of my HTC Diamond.
So I only plug in the charger after I have started the car's engine. I bought a Belkin USB Car Charger, as I trust Belkin with power control and that it has a very low profile when plugged in.
p107r0 said:
from my experience phone temps seem normal, I'd even seen post from some guy in tropics reaching up to 122,
however resets at 106-108 suggest faulty mainboard, is you device still under warranty? if so have it repaired (mainboard replacement in my case), if not I'd rather discourage at home soldering - tried very similar thing with my laptop, which helped but only for two weeks, specialsed equipment keeping precise temperatures is necessary to make it work
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I you said if it is still under warranty have it repaired? I have tmo insurance does it cover this? Are they aware of the problem?
THanks
jodajen2 said:
I you said if it is still under warranty have it repaired? I have tmo insurance does it cover this? Are they aware of the problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not familiar with us warranty regulations, where judging from your sig you are.
Try contacting HTC customer support for info, contrary to popular belief, they were quite helpful when my device started to malfunction.
I have had this problem.
When viewing youtube videos for more than 5 minutes my HTC HD2 becomes very hot and reboot. I sent mine to HTC repair center in Singapore and they replaced the main board and now everything is ok. I have to send it twice because the first time the phone isn't starting...
HelloAll,
Ive had my new head unit installed for two days now, and been through all the settings etc checked all the leads and cant see anything wrong, but have had to put my car battery on charge twice now.
It seems the head unit drains the battery when I turn the car ignition off.
Also I have an airbag fault, but I thought this was just due to me unpluging the passenger side airbag warning light when I was fitting the unit.
its a Erisin ES3015V 8" VW Android 5.1
The only thing I left unpluged was the old GPS antenna as not needed (would this cause a drain if touching something, forgot to tape it up)
Also due to the instructions being in pigeon english can any one advise how I should set the dip switches on the back.
see pics attached.
Many kind regards
Guy
HAGster1969 said:
HelloAll,
Ive had my new head unit installed for two days now, and been through all the settings etc checked all the leads and cant see anything wrong, but have had to put my car battery on charge twice now.
It seems the head unit drains the battery when I turn the car ignition off.
Also I have an airbag fault, but I thought this was just due to me unpluging the passenger side airbag warning light when I was fitting the unit.
its a Erisin ES3015V 8" VW Android 5.1
The only thing I left unpluged was the old GPS antenna as not needed (would this cause a drain if touching something, forgot to tape it up)
Also due to the instructions being in pigeon english can any one advise how I should set the dip switches on the back.
see pics attached.
Many kind regards
Guy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You may have swapped B+ and ACC. Normally B+ is yellow and carries +12 continuously. While ACC is normally red and should only carry +12 when your key is in ACC or further.
Concerning Airbag-light. Some cars need an airbag-light reset through the OBD-bus or manufacturer-bus. Sometimes it's good enough to disconnect the battery for some hours to clear various lights. I doubt that in your case since your battery been drained already. Maybe not low enough to clear the OB-computer.
thank you for the reply.
I might have sorted the power drain, flipping dip switch no 3 to off has now enabled the unit to shut down fully when the keys are removed from ignition, and now the standby option works so i can takekeys out and then have unit in instant on mode for 30 secs, 2 mins up to 2 hours etc before it completly shuts down.
I was thinking the light just needs a reset ill go see my friend who has a vag box to reset the light
Thank You
Similar problem
Hello,
Sorry to bring this back up...
I have a similar situation, but my unit Eonon GA6157f is installed in an Audi a3 with a BOSE unit.
h t t p ://www.eonon.com/Android-Car-GPS/Vehicle-Specific-GPS/GA6157F.html?Catype=1
(remove spaces)
The above solution did not work...
Does anyone else have any ideas of how to solve this?
I get a dead battery after 24 to 36 hours
thanks
Hello.
I have same problem with Audi A3 with Bose. Any solution?
Hi, my phone with just three weeks of use, my screen stops working suddenly after ending a call. At that moment I see that the screen does not turn on, I press the lock button and I hear the blocking sound, I proceed to remove the battery and turn the phone back on, but the same thing happens. I do not have a boot image (no LG logo, nothing, only backlight for about 2 seconds) when the backlight is turned on the screen, the bottom edge of the screen gets very hot (even faster and much hotter than the CPU) . The phone reacts, I receive calls, notifications, but I have no picture on the screen. Okay, I'm starting to think it's a hardware problem and I disarm the phone to check that the LCD connector is not badly connected, but everything was fine. I assemble the phone and turn it on again and I still have no picture. I leave the phone charging all night and I go to sleep, the next day the screen worked, but only a few minutes, until it became pixelated as in the attached image.
Now the phone does not give image (only backlight) and only sometimes gives me image, but pixelated. I have been investigating, and the only thing I could investigate is that it can be screen (flex ribbon damaged), overheated GPU or CPU, defective GPU. So I do not know what to do (a replacement is not possible). I need to know if the problem is the screen or the motherboard, in case it is the motherboard I can bake the motherboard in the oven to try to perform a reflow of the GPU, just as it happened with the LG G3 when it reheated and this was a solution.
What do you think is the problem? Sometimes when I have pixelated image and I turn off the main screen, the time shows perfectly on the secondary screen without pixelation
I'd first check the ribbon cable and any other cables or connections to make sure that's not an issue. If it is the GPU, please, please take it to a professional who can reflow it correctly. I can not stress this enough -- the risk you are taking by putting your cell phones motherboard into the oven is astronomical. You could essentially take a phone with a GPU issue and turn it into an everything issue. :\ I used to repair Xbox 360s and Playstation 3s for a living and I had a BGA rework station, you have no idea how many times people brought in baked motherboards from attempted home repairs. You can find these services cheap all over the internet. Just make sure you select one with plenty of positive reviews.
Edit: I also don't recommend a heatgun reflow unless you have something to mount the heat gun with so you can attempt to replicate a BGA rework station environment. If you are dead set on repairing this yourself (if it turns out to be GPU that is) -- then I highly recommend doing this instead of the oven. Watch lots of youtube videos first. PM me if you have any questions. I can't promise I'll get back quickly as I have stuff to deal with here hurricane wise.
I installed one of these units in my Alfa 147 yesterday and am having a problem where it will boot from completely off most of the time. Occasionally it will boot from standby in around 3 seconds, but most of the time i have to sit through the entire boot from cold sequence.
I definitely have my ignition and constant wires the right way around, and I don't think it's a battery issue. I tested the voltage of the constant 12V and it only dipped to 10 or 11V when starting the engine. The problem also arises when just turning the key to the second position which rules out the starter motor bringing the voltage too low.
Any suggestions on how to fix this would be much appreciated.
Side note: the surround/bezel which came with the cage (from xtrons) doesn't fit over the head unit. Anyone else have this problem? It's pretty ugly having the cage exposed.
I have the same unit and I just installed it. I tried connecting by either switching A4 and A7 (my car is Peugeot 107 and this is how it should be, similar to your Alfa I believe), and without switching them, and it's the same. Also, I set the timeout on powering off when ACC is off to 10 minutes, but my head unit turns off immediately.
I've since figured out that in my case i was just expecting too much of it. I thought that it would stay in standby indefinitely as long as it had a power source. Turns out it will only stay in standby for as long as you set the ACC off timeout for, which is 1 hour maximum. I think this must be because it consumes too much power even in standby and would drain your car battery over night.
The way mine behaves now is that if i turn the ignition off it will go in to standby for one hour. During this hour it will turn back on within a couple of seconds when the ignition is turned back on. After that hour, it will need to boot from cold. This isn't actually too bad as it usually takes less than 10 seconds for a cold boot.
My main gripe with this unit now is how much the screen is recessed behind the bezel. Due to the angle it's at in my car this means that the bezel obstructs half of the notification bar when i'm sat in my natural driving position.
Actually, it turns out it works OK for me as well. I dropped the adapter that switches A4 and A7, and it works fine. It has it's flaws (today being a really sunny day, I wished display was a bit brighter), but it's a nice upgrade on my 2008 car stereo.
I know what you mean about the brightness. It's just about usable on a bright day though so not a deal breaker.
I can recommend the DVR019 dash cam if you don't have one by the way. Super cheap and easy to install - just requires USB connection to the head unit.
Let me know if you figure out anything useful about this unit.
Are you guys happy with the sound quality? I am looking into buying same unit.
Did you buy any special harness to connect to the car?
Set timeout to autosleep instead of timed, that way it'll always boot in seconds, mine starts instantly even two days later
Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Mr.R™ said:
Set timeout to autosleep instead of timed, that way it'll always boot in seconds, mine starts instantly even two days later
Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you explain how to do that? I only have the option for 10 minutes, 30 minutes and 1 hr and it doesn't work on any
Xtrons Androind installing
Hi!
Did you get any answer or solutions to this, after all..? I have the same problem, and originally installed the car navigator to get powered from the ACC cable.
I didnt try this yet, but i bet to use the 10min / 30min / 1 hour switch off, the navigator should be wired to the yellow 12V cable to get continuos electricity, and not to the ACC cable, what gives eletricity ONLY when you turn on the car..
Of course without the turn off timer, it would drane out the whole battery.. I think 30min delay would be pretty cool, the time to go for examle to a store and come back, and find the android system still fast and rdy to go..
Hi
I'm hoping someone can help me out. I have the above head unit in my car, and it works pretty well. But it boots from cold all the time. There is an inbuilt option where I can choose standby for 5, 10, 20, 30 and 60 minutes, which means if I return to my car within that time chosen my head unit comes on immediately, but it's maxed out at 60 mins, all other times it cold boots, and takes an age.
My last head unit in a different car did the same thing, found the remedy in switching the red and yellow wires. Worked perfectly. Tried that remedy with this head unit and it actually made it worse. Is still booting from cold, but now setting the standby time doesn't work at all. I can't take it back to the garage unitl next week..
So, Has anyone had any luck forcing it to go into standby? (I read someone had connected the red and yellow from the head unit to the red from the car. Not sure what this will do)
Thanks
T