Database Users

New Xtrons PA97MTVPL for SEAT Altea not fitting

Hi all
Has anyone fit the Xtrons PA97MTVPL yet? I just received one and it won't fit in my 2010 Altea. On the product description the Altea is mentioned as compatible for the years 2004 to 2015. They do warn that you should check the console to be sure it'll fit because they can't guarantee it will fit, but I checked what I could see and the dimensions all match. In fact the facia panel I have is a lovely fit!!
It's the stupid lower left and right corners. For some reason Xtrons have made these square on this model while other compatible models (such as the PCD8AMTVA or the PA87MTVP which I think is its sister model but with DVD) have rounded corners!!
The RCD310 that I've removed also has rounded lower corners. So what gives with the square corners?!
I'm mostly annoyed because I decided to wire it all up and test it before finally mounting it. Apart from not being able to find a way to get the DAB aerial cable fed behind the dash (I suspect I will need to get someone to do that for me) everything was working perfectly! My FM reception was easily as good as the RCD310, the GPS was picking up strong signals, the sound (for the money) is really, really good, with a DAB aerial taped to the windscreen I was able to pick up all the channels I wanted with full signal strength!! I even had the device switching off when I removed the key!! And not only that it remembered what was running when I switched the ignition on and boot up within seconds!!
It was all going so well!! Why, oh, why did Xtrons make the bottom corners square? Will these actually fit other SEAT models? Is it only my version of the Altea that it won't fit? The corners are exactly where the fascia clips are so I can't even trim the plastic!!
It will have to go back, which is a shame as my initial impression is that it is a really nice piece of kit that actually behaves as it should!
I just wondered if anyone else has had a similar installation problem with this or any other head units? So much for being Custom Fit!!!

Maybe you have the unit for the facelift dashboard? I know this does exist on a Leon, so maybe also on an altea?
Verstuurd vanaf mijn Z2 Pro met Tapatalk

hans.vinkers said:
Maybe you have the unit for the facelift dashboard? I know this does exist on a Leon, so maybe also on an altea?
Verstuurd vanaf mijn Z2 Pro met Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could be right, but that's not obvious on their website or their ads as it states that it is compatible with the Altea models from 2004 to 2015 and I'm fairly sure the 2004 model probably didn't have the facelift. But maybe I'm wrong. It does have the extra L on the end of its model number, but there is no explanation anywhere on the website as to what that actually means.
I've never had my RCD310 out before today so had no idea that the mounting could be different. We live and learn. Hopefully this will not be a costly lesson!! I've been in touch with the supplier so just waiting to hear from them with my fingers crossed!
It's a real shame as I am very impressed with the unit otherwise. I'll try and swap it with the PA87MTVP which should fit albeit with a smaller screen.

Just for information's sake I thought I'd let you know I have managed to fit the Xtrons unit into my Altea. I did have to do some minor modifications to the plastic, but nothing that can be seen once the fascia is back in place.
Suffice it to say that, so far, I love this unit! It is everything I hoped it would be and more and after a couple of days driving with it I would definitely recommend it! Hopefully I'll still feel the same in a few months time!!

where did you order it from and for what price?

I bought it from Audio Visual Tech on eBay for £199.99. Delivery was quick. I had to contact the seller a couple of times initially to enquire about availability, as it was out of stock when I ordered, and they were always quick to respond and polite and helpful. The unit came back into stock sooner than they originally thought and was sent straight out.

Hi,
I’ve recently fitted one of these to my 2007 Passat and I have to say I’m disappointed!
WiFi range is horrendous
Steering wheel controls only work on certain apps
It won’t recognise my IPhone as an iPod so I cannot Control it from m the HU
Screen is way too bright at night at lowest setting (dangerously so)
Spotify app keeps dumping downloaded playlists
Dab+ app is awful with no way to save favourite stations
I’m seriously considering selling it on (at a huge loss no doubt) & forking our for a Kenwood / Pioneer with CarPlay!

happyarthur1979 said:
Hi,
I’ve recently fitted one of these to my 2007 Passat and I have to say I’m disappointed!
WiFi range is horrendous
Steering wheel controls only work on certain apps
It won’t recognise my IPhone as an iPod so I cannot Control it from m the HU
Screen is way too bright at night at lowest setting (dangerously so)
Spotify app keeps dumping downloaded playlists
Dab+ app is awful with no way to save favourite stations
I’m seriously considering selling it on (at a huge loss no doubt) & forking our for a Kenwood / Pioneer with CarPlay!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
any recommended alternative android 7 unit? i'm looking for my Skoda Roomster 2015

ystokar said:
any recommended alternative android 7 unit? i'm looking for my Skoda Roomster 2015
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, no not really as I’ve not really been looking. I would guess they are all very similar though hence my probable decision to go with a big named brand with CarPlay installed!
Graham.

[MOD] Copper Heatsink

Found while researching the 5X bootloop of DEATH.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mV8_hsua4vo
Maybe too much paste and looks like in translation .8mm copper plate was used.
Any comments regarding this relatively simple mod.

omgdwong said:
Found while researching the 5X bootloop of DEATH.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mV8_hsua4vo
Maybe too much paste and looks like in translation .8mm copper plate was used.
Any comments regarding this relatively simple mod.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the square cover you used, is the same as the cutter cutter?
Enviado desde mi Nexus 5X mediante Tapatalk

I bought these copper shims: http://www.ebay.com/itm/261704004472
15mmx15mmx0.3-5-8-1, think I'm going to try just putting a 0.5mm shim on the CPU with some paste, none on the screen side, I don't want the area of the screen there getting too hot - the copper itself should act as a good heatsink

Why? The only thing this device needs is 4 gb RAM mod. Nothing else.

Sinistersky said:
Why? The only thing this device needs is 4 gb RAM mod. Nothing else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
because putting a copper chim on the back of the CPU that overheats is a good temporary fix until I can organize shipping my phone to china? I'm talking to [email protected] in PM about it but it's hard because his english isn't very good. he says $200 without shipping for 128gb internal storage upgrade and 2gb-4gb ram upgrade.

paradoxiumwind said:
because putting a copper chim on the back of the CPU that overheats is a good temporary fix until I can organize shipping my phone to china? I'm talking to [email protected] in PM about it but it's hard because his english isn't very good. he says $200 without shipping for 128gb internal storage upgrade and 2gb-4gb ram upgrade.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let me know how that goes, as I would be very interested. I love the 5x, but there are a number of limitations that are starting to peek out.
16GB storage
2GB ram
CPU is fast enough for me, but overheats and throttles
Battery lasts ~4 hours SOT
If I could upgrade to 128GB, 4GB, cool the CPU with a copper shim and some modding, and then swap my old battery for an LG G2 3,000 mah one, I could see myself using this phone for several more years!
Or at least until Android P comes out, and I get upgrade envy.

I just finished this in the morning. Initially I got the idea from here: youtu.be/mV8_hsua4vo.
Used a 1mm thick, 15 x 15 mm copper pad that I bought locally, I couldn't get a 0.8mm one and waiting for an order from Aliexpress for such a tiny item is not my thing since our national post is a mess and it adds up like a week to an already huge delivery time.
So I sanded down the 1mm one to about probably 0.8, just enough so the board is not floating on it and the contacts for the ear piece are fine.
Removed the factory yellow pad, cut the thin foil off of the metal shield, slammed some DeepCool thermal compound that I had laying around and pieced it back together.
All I can tell you is that I can't get the CPU temp past 52°C. Tried all the trending benchmarks on the PlayStore, max brightness, streaming Play Music over bluetooth to my headphones, you name it.
That 52 is peak, doesn't stay there, at idle it ends up around 30 to 32 and some casual browsing with mid brightness goes up to around 40.
So the most is runs at when gaming or doing heavy tasks is between 40 and 50. Which is a massive improvement over stock temperatures and even better than the thermal config that I used to run (see bellow).
Worth mentioning that I'm running the extremeV4 thermal config, throttling temp at 51, EX Kernel with Heimdall_5x_v4 profile for the interactive governor.
The screen is NOT getting too hot, in fact it used to get hotter before, without the copper pad.
Sorry I don't have any photos, but I don't have another camera, just an old GoPro H3+B - useless.

Tried this too. Didn't seem to do much though.. Tried this test and CPU didn't reach even close to 40 degrees Celsius. Weird thing was that the two faster cores quickly went offline after starting the test though..
EDIT: I used a 1 mm thick thermal pad but now notice a blue spot around the cpu. I can also see a curvature in the screen under the right lighting. Maybe the thermal pad is too thick? I figured a 1 mm pad could be squished down to 0.8 mm if it would be too thick..

I just saved mine via fastboot with a modified img but having two disabled cores bothers me. I thought about replacing the motherboard or upgrading/replacing the two cores to a new one with 4gb ram and then adding the heat sink. Do you guys think it's worth it or should I just leave it be

Hi,
i made the mod a few days ago. i used a 0,8mm 15 x 15 mm copper pad.
It works great.
But today i used gps the first time since the mod and got a big problem. I was driving with maps und a had a few seconds gps then searching for gps then a few seconds gps and searching again.
Anyone alse noticed some problems with gps after this mod?
Or any ideas what could happend?

I had the same issue with GPS, seems like only done encounter the issue. I just had to get a new thermal pad. Found some Arctic thermal pad that is .5mm thick and used that.
Here is a post of mine in another thread
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=75586886&postcount=26
the_desaster said:
Hi,
i made the mod a few days ago. i used a 0,8mm 15 x 15 mm copper pad.
It works great.
But today i used gps the first time since the mod and got a big problem. I was driving with maps und a had a few seconds gps then searching for gps then a few seconds gps and searching again.
Anyone alse noticed some problems with gps after this mod?
Or any ideas what could happend?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

octavioromo said:
I had the same issue with GPS, seems like only done encounter the issue. I just had to get a new thermal pad. Found some Arctic thermal pad that is .5mm thick and used that.
Here is a post of mine in another thread
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=75586886&postcount=26
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok thank you. seems like not everyone got this problem.
i will try to press the backcover a bit on the mainboard next time.
if that doesnt help i try with the thermal pad or maybe a thinner copper pad.
are your temps better with the pad than original?

I couldn't use the copper pad at all, and it wasn't a clearance issue. I tried a thinner shim and I had the same issue. Send like there is some sensor or something that gets blocked by using a metal shim. I used CPU throttling test and it said performance improved by about 10 percent or so. But in real world it's a bit better but essentially couldn't use the copper pad.

octavioromo said:
I couldn't use the copper pad at all, and it wasn't a clearance issue. I tried a thinner shim and I had the same issue. Send like there is some sensor or something that gets blocked by using a metal shim. I used CPU throttling test and it said performance improved by about 10 percent or so. But in real world it's a bit better but essentially couldn't use the copper pad.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the copper pad in there and I use Strava and Google Maps almost every day but never had a GPS problem.
I still believe you are encountering a problem with the antennas' pins not making contact with the board.
There just can't be any shielding or any problem from the copper pad, since the whole back of the display is a big chunk of aluminum that would mess the GPS even more if that would be the problem.

RO.maniac said:
There just can't be any shielding or any problem from the copper pad, since the whole back of the display is a big chunk of aluminum that would mess the GPS even more if that would be the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
makes sense... but than an 0.8mm copper shim seems to be to thick.
i dont used to much thermal paste...
do you know which of the pins on the backcover are for gps-antenna?
maybe i can try to improve the contact.
if that doenst work i will try an thermal pad.
Desaster

This only works with the stock rom?

Rojas2018 said:
This only works with the stock rom?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WTF this is a simple mod to improve cooler, hardware is not changed so it work with any rom

[GS] said:
WTF this is a simple mod to improve cooler, hardware is not changed so it work with any rom
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool!

Paste
Is it necessary to use thermal paste, or can I use glue?

I just took out the copper pad because I lost all gps signal and after troubleshooting every other possible cause, I went with the "rumour" that the pad is causing interference. And oh man, it does!
I have no idea how my gps worked for like 8 months, since I got the mod in. Still, Strava was losing signal here and there, generating zig-zag lines, but I blamed it on the app.
Now everything is fine, I get signal from at least 6 fixed satellites and Strava is super stable.
I guess I'm back in line to get the bootloop now, the SoC is back running in the 70s and 80s C.
So I think you can forget about this mod unless you don't care about proper gps signal.

Matte screen px5?

Hi, is there any head unit with px5 and 2gb ram (I understand that it is current most powerful option in Chinese HUs) with matte screen and physical know for volume and other buttons?
Also it would be great if it ships from EU.
Or at least with truly black screen with some ag coating. All I saw for sale, even name brand HUs from Kenwood are this silver/gray super reflective ****.
Also does Bluetooth internet tethering from phone work on px5 mtcd/e units?

evlo said:
Hi, is there any head unit with px5 and 2gb ram (I understand that it is current most powerful option in Chinese HUs) with matte screen and physical know for volume and other buttons?
Also it would be great if it ships from EU.
Or at least with truly black screen with some ag coating. All I saw for sale, even name brand HUs from Kenwood are this silver/gray super reflective ****.
Also does Bluetooth internet tethering from phone work on px5 mtcd/e units?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
px5 is a weakling. Its a bunch of A53's.
The ARM way of doing things is to couple a few weaker cores (they call them "little") with a few stronger cores (they call them "BIG").
The little cores are used when the processing demands are low, because typically they will use less power than the big cores (A57, A72, A73).
What the px5 has, is a bunch of little cores, without any BIG ones.
It doesn't matter if it has 8 of them, they're still really weak and slow.
The stronger chip available for car radios is the Intel Sofia. Don't get too crazy about core counts, frequency, or "benchmarks". None of those metrics help you in calculating the relative performance when you are comparing dissimiliar CPU architectures.
MTC is also responsible for some particularly poor designs. Try to find something from SYU instead. They are a lot less dependent on crappy firmware running on the external MCU chip. Both do have an MCU, but the SYU doesn't use it for nearly as much.

Don't really care about CPU as much for the screen, but would prefer latest arm platform then depreciated, even if more powerful intel one.
If there are intel with matte screen and no px5 with it then sure.

So anything at least semi glossy, like some hi end laptops are these days? Or at worst something with truly black screen? (sometimes it is called fully laminated)

HU I have has very glossy screen glass, but the only case I suffer from this is when making photos of whats on screen - have to choose position carefully to avoid self-reflection. All other usage scenarios are not affected by that at all.

And why not putting on a matte protector? I have a Peugeout 308 with an integrated multimedia screen, and I aready fitted a matte screen protector.
I wanted to install a protector no matter what, to avoid permanent scratches that could be caused with rings, keys or whatever you could have in hand in any moment.
I now ordered a Joying HU and will install a screen protector ASAP.

There is video on Youtube featuring Joying's screen glass hardness - looks like it is of some Gorilla type, quite impressive and nothing to worry about. What really bothers me is greasy stains from my even greasy fingers, but in this case soft cloth helps, not any screen protector which I firmly believe is rather useless.

ptolomeo said:
And why not putting on a matte protector? I have a Peugeout 308 with an integrated multimedia screen, and I aready fitted a matte screen protector.
I wanted to install a protector no matter what, to avoid permanent scratches that could be caused with rings, keys or whatever you could have in hand in any moment.
I now ordered a Joying HU and will install a screen protector ASAP.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My experience with matte protectors is just bad, it is not same, not even close to matter layer fused with polarizer on matte displays.

luciusfox said:
px5 is a weakling. Its a bunch of A53's.
The ARM way of doing things is to couple a few weaker cores (they call them "little") with a few stronger cores (they call them "BIG").
The little cores are used when the processing demands are low, because typically they will use less power than the big cores (A57, A72, A73).
What the px5 has, is a bunch of little cores, without any BIG ones.
It doesn't matter if it has 8 of them, they're still really weak and slow.
The stronger chip available for car radios is the Intel Sofia. Don't get too crazy about core counts, frequency, or "benchmarks". None of those metrics help you in calculating the relative performance when you are comparing dissimiliar CPU architectures.
MTC is also responsible for some particularly poor designs. Try to find something from SYU instead. They are a lot less dependent on crappy firmware running on the external MCU chip. Both do have an MCU, but the SYU doesn't use it for nearly as much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any examples of SYU/Sofia units you recommend?

Nexus 5x 32GB 4GB ram + 3400mAh battery + heatsink mod

Needed an inexpensive spare phone. Picked up a Nexus 5x 16GB for less than USD50, with problems (Unable to turn on, only red LED when trying to charge) so starting a project to revive it.
Stumbled across this thread.
Bit the bullet and bought the oudini UNLOCKED H791 32GB Mainboard with the 4GB RAM and a Da Da Xiong 3400mAh Battery to go with it.
Planning to do the copper heatsink mod too.
Was thinking of expanding on the idea of the copper heatsink mod with this Experimental "home-made" modding for heat dissipation mod. Aluminum foil was used along with liquid metal thermal compound in that thread. Not a good idea as liquid metal with aluminum is a recipe for disaster. I was thinking of using copper foil instead. Haven't decided on whether to use thermal paste or liquid metal. Also thinking of creating a bigger surface footprint for the "heat dissipation pipe" like the attached picture.
Your thoughts?
Will update once all parts arrive and I begin assembling. :fingers-crossed:
Attached Thumbnails

Good luck with that. Sounds like fun.
With that mainboard, is there any guarantee it won't start bootlooping a few months down the road?

Good to see somebody else dumping money into such a hobby
Aside from my daily driver 5X, I have another one now at the shop for a reballing job - kind of a long story, outcome still unknown
I don't think that whole 'heat pipe' situation is needed, you are going to be fine just with the copper pad.
I've been running it for a few days now and honestly it's more than enough. You won't get anymore performance out of this chip unless you go sub zero cooling or something.
Seriously, having it run at 30 to 40°C on daily normal usage and 40 to 50 in games or other intensive tasks is just fine.
Thermal throttling is also kept to a minimum, especially with the non-stock thermal configs.
That battery capacity is jank, you can't physically fit that much juice into that space.
The best battery you can get your hands on is a LG *allegedly* original unit from Amazon sold directly by LG. Other than that, you are always going to end up with some knock off that gives you, at best, the same battery life as a 3 year old original one.
Good luck with all this then.
But you'll probably ditch it all in a year's time for a Pixel, when you'll want that fresh Android. That's going to be my story, anyway.

AsItLies said:
Good luck with that. Sounds like fun.
With that mainboard, is there any guarantee it won't start bootlooping a few months down the road?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess there are no guarantees... My understanding is, this bootloop is caused by hardware problem with solder connections between the board, RAM and CPU. The RAM is packed with the CPU together on the top.
This main board has had a new RAM/CPU soldered on. So unless it was a shoddy job, it should all work. Now, under heavy load, heat builds, and when it gets too hot, there is a possibility of the solder connections giving problems again. Which is why I thought of doing the copper heatsink mods to reduce the chances of it happening. Also, with the 4GB of RAM, I am hoping it will have less stress on both CPU and RAM, which in turn will generate less heat, thus reducing the chances of the problems with the solder connections.
All this is just theoretical. I guess I have to build it and see how it goes. :fingers-crossed:

RO.maniac said:
Good to see somebody else dumping money into such a hobby
Aside from my daily driver 5X, I have another one now at the shop for a reballing job - kind of a long story, outcome still unknown
I don't think that whole 'heat pipe' situation is needed, you are going to be fine just with the copper pad.
I've been running it for a few days now and honestly it's more than enough. You won't get anymore performance out of this chip unless you go sub zero cooling or something.
Seriously, having it run at 30 to 40°C on daily normal usage and 40 to 50 in games or other intensive tasks is just fine.
Thermal throttling is also kept to a minimum, especially with the non-stock thermal configs.
That battery capacity is jank, you can't physically fit that much juice into that space.
The best battery you can get your hands on is a LG *allegedly* original unit from Amazon sold directly by LG. Other than that, you are always going to end up with some knock off that gives you, at best, the same battery life as a 3 year old original one.
Good luck with all this then.
But you'll probably ditch it all in a year's time for a Pixel, when you'll want that fresh Android. That's going to be my story, anyway.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don’t really game on phones but where I live, temperatures and humidity are quite high. Not looking for crazy performance, just hoping the phone stays cool and will last a while.
As for that battery, we’ll see. No harm trying after all. A guy on reddit bought one and said it does last longer than the original. If it sucks, I’ll just revert back to the original one.
This is just a small hobby/project, who knows how long I’ll use it. I actually already have a Pixel 2 XL. As I’ve mentioned, this is just a spare.

I also bought one of the 4GB boards (two actually) and replaced a dead N5X from ebay with the upgraded one. Works flawlessly, will post screenshots of the system info of 4GB RAM soon when I have my phone sorted.
I'm curious about that battery though - is it legit 3400MaH?
This is the 4GB board I bought, same as you. My first two didn't make it past chinese customs but he sent another two and they made it fine. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/oud...for-LG-H791-32GB-Motherboard/32846103543.html

AsItLies said:
Good luck with that. Sounds like fun.
With that mainboard, is there any guarantee it won't start bootlooping a few months down the road?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At the moment, no one reported bootloops on Nexus 5X with 4GB Ram. We will see in the future.

4GB board installed, just installing apps and setting it up etc. Feels snappier anyway. When installing ElementalX kernel, I set the read-ahead buffer from 512kb to 1024kb to adjust for the increased RAM.

Soon I will order one Motherboard. If my 5X will have bootloop again.

paradoxiumwind said:
I'm curious about that battery though - is it legit 3400MaH?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No idea but on the sellers ad, they say they use a EBC-A10H machine to test their batteries for the desired result. Also, there are a couple of brands besides the Da Da Xiong one that I bought. There's HSABAT, LOSONCOER and IBITION.
On reddit k3v1ng1994 says ;-
"Just wanted to update you on the extended battery.
I finally had it delivered a couple of days ago. I can confirm that the battery does so far last longer than the OEM battery- I just don't know exactly how much by.
The biggest issue is the battery has thrown my phone out of calibration. No longer can I see what battery percent I'm on (it always stays on 50%), and the screen on time isn't resetting when I put my phone on charge. I've tried many ways to try and recalibrate the battery, with no luck.
I would say it's not worth getting for this very reason. I'd rather be able to tell how much battery I have left, rather than have a longer battery life. But you might be interested in giving it a go, especially if you're rooted since you can take additional measures to calibrate the battery."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess there is an issue with calibration but I think should be an easy fix with a flash of stock images (or factory wipe) and batterystats.bin will be removed in /data/system... Should be calibrated after that. Not sure which brand he bought though. Who knows. Will try and see how it goes.

Got a notification, my items have been shipped!
Main board should arrive by the 2018-03-18 but the battery says 2018-04-08 . I've ordered stuff from China recently and they usually arrive before their estimates. Hopefully they get shipped out of the country before their Chinese New Year holidays. Then it's up to my country to deliver the goods.
Took apart the phone today and tried the "heating" method fix but it didn't work. I got as far as getting "Google" to appear on the screen then it gets stuck there.
Anyway, looking at the heatsink/"heat pipe" mods, I'll probably stick to thermal paste instead of liquid metal. Liquid metal is corrosive. Even with copper the metal ions will migrate into the copper metal, gradually creating a copper-gallium alloy that is grey-silverish in color. Which is why people think it's drying up. It's actually the copper absorbing the liquid metal.
Looking at what PC CPU heatsink are like these days, the contact point is usually copper, followed by aluminum fins for faster heat dissipation. Why not just follow that recipe. :silly:
So, looks like the copper foil I ordered won't be of any use now :laugh:.

Really don't think a heatsink mod is needed, in my old phone I used a 0.1mm(or 0.2mm I forgot) copper shim over where the CPU is, stuck it on with thermal paste, didn't make much difference in cpu temp.

paradoxiumwind said:
Really don't think a heatsink mod is needed, in my old phone I used a 0.1mm(or 0.2mm I forgot) copper shim over where the CPU is, stuck it on with thermal paste, didn't make much difference in cpu temp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A .1 or .2 mm shim won't indeed change anything, it's way too thin for the chip to be in contact with the chassis. Especially if you don't remove the factory yellow pad and the thin foil from the chip shield.
With a .8 or .9 mm copper pad (can't tell for sure, I sanded down a 1mm pad) I can guarantee that you'll notice the temp difference, the throttling is almost gone.
It also depends on what thermal paste you use and how much of it.
Also to everybody wondering why the bootloop issue occures, here's a few things:
The 808 and 810 were the first x64 chips Qualcomm came up with as a response to Apple's. So you can imagine they aren't exactly well thought out, especially in the long run. You can do a bit of research to see how they just janked together some ARM cortexes, slammed a GPU in there and called it a day. Samsung even ditched the 810 from the S6 and used in-house silicon - I think we can safely assume Samsung knows its hw game.
The stock thermal config and kernel are absolute garbage and don't help at all with the thermal throttling that keeps the little cluster pinned at 1440Mhz and the big one off, anytime the package is above 46°C - that's most of the time. Now you tell me how easy that is on the hw.
These design flaws coupled with possibly bad soldering led to our problems. Even though it's hard to imagine that so many boards made it out of the production line with bad soldering since that's a mostly automated and very tidy job, leaving little to mistake.

RO.maniac said:
A .1 or .2 mm shim won't indeed change anything, it's way too thin for the chip to be in contact with the chassis. Especially if you don't remove the factory yellow pad and the thin foil from the chip shield.
With a .8 or .9 mm copper pad (can't tell for sure, I sanded down a 1mm pad) I can guarantee that you'll notice the temp difference, the throttling is almost gone.
It also depends on what thermal paste you use and how much of it.
Also to everybody wondering why the bootloop issue occures, here's a few things:
The 808 and 810 were the first x64 chips Qualcomm came up with as a response to Apple's. So you can imagine they aren't exactly well thought out, especially in the long run. You can do a bit of research to see how they just janked together some ARM cortexes, slammed a GPU in there and called it a day. Samsung even ditched the 810 from the S6 and used in-house silicon - I think we can safely assume Samsung knows its hw game.
The stock thermal config and kernel are absolute garbage and don't help at all with the thermal throttling that keeps the little cluster pinned at 1440Mhz and the big one off, anytime the package is above 46°C - that's most of the time. Now you tell me how easy that is on the hw.
These design flaws coupled with possibly bad soldering led to our problems. Even though it's hard to imagine that so many boards made it out of the production line with bad soldering since that's a mostly automated and very tidy job, leaving little to mistake.
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Click to collapse
I don't want to go OT, but understanding some things may help "solve" the heat / bootloop problem in non-bootlooping N5X. In stock kernel, through ExKernelManager, I've seen CPU at 96º C when taking photos with HDR+ With Jolla kernel and the big off, CPU hardly reaches 60º C. If soldering is not "the problem", an "accurate" kernel configuration will be enough to avoid the bootloop? Sorry if I misunderstood your explanation or if I ask something stupid. I know nothing about this, but I would love to learn something. Thanks!

CLPose said:
I don't want to go OT, but understanding some things may help "solve" the heat / bootloop problem in non-bootlooping N5X. In stock kernel, through ExKernelManager, I've seen CPU at 96º C when taking photos with HDR+ With Jolla kernel and the big off, CPU hardly reaches 60º C. If soldering is not "the problem", an "accurate" kernel configuration will be enough to avoid the bootloop? Sorry if I misunderstood your explanation or if I ask something stupid. I know nothing about this, but I would love to learn something. Thanks!
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Click to collapse
All I'm saying is pure speculation, the web is filled with people talking bs about 808 and 810.
Also, Qualcomm, LG or Google never settled this with actual honest facts.
Another fact is that some Huawei made Nexus 6P devices bootlooped as well, so you can see how one could easily think that the root problem is the architecture itself of that generation of SoCs.
On the other hand, I can make an 'educated guess' about how a cooler running package prolongs its life and puts less stress on the 'allegedly' weak soldering.
So I think it's safe to assume that running a custom kernel and thermal config, along with other tweaks like the heatsink, will dramatically increase the life of your 5X.

Hello friends first forgive the translator's mistakes. I already knew this topic before but did not know that the motherboard had already been sold already modified.
My thanks to @LeonF for providing the link of the sale of the motherboard with 4GB of RAM.
I already have a functional 5x nexus, but I bought another today with the burned motherboard per US $40.00. Then I bought the motherboard per US $132.05 5% off.
Unfortunately I live in Brazil, the customs (IRS) here are horrible, it will certainly take up to 70 days for me to receive the product, as soon as arrive i come to post my opinion here... on a battery 3400mAh do not think it's good.

I have noticed with my 4gig ram board, my battery usage is really good. same battery. ordered two of those 3400mah ones though, but somehow more ram = better battery time

Copper shims arrived today. They're 15 x 15 x 0.8 mm. Took the phone apart, did a mock of the copper shim then cleaned off the yellow thermal pad...

So @Mortihead found a service that will replace your emmc chip to 32GB, 64GB or 128GB and mentioned I should try.
Mortihead said:
Taobao service now can change internal storage for 32/64/128GB in Nexus 5x
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a211ha.10565794.0.0.e9dd404sdwVlg&id=549749619850&toSite=main
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Click to collapse
I got in touch with them and found out (as best as I can understand the WeChat translator) that the 128GB chips have been out of stock but they still have the 64GB ones and it will cost RMB280 to do it.
I found this chart from @ikfe from this thread of the part numbers...
ikfe said:
Sure, but my idea is not an occasional adaptater but a real memory extend like this thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/google-nexus-5/help/nexus-5-64gb-t3350533
I'm confused with 2 ideas :
-Add an SDCard slot (can be cool)
-Extend memory to 64 or 128gb (my advice SDCard still better)
On the iFixit Teardown guide, it says it's a Toshiba THGBMFG7C2LBAIL (16gb variant) chip.
And in the Toshiba catalog, like u can see downside, all chips seems to be the same type (P-WFBGA153).
The problem is the size of the chip. Upgrade can be easily done to 32GB (N5X Variant), or to 64 and 128 gb, up to 0,4mm difference.
Searched a bit on the web and finded some chips:
64GB Variant:
https://www.rutronik24.com/product/toshiba/thgbmhg9c4lbair/7782539.html
http://fr.aliexpress.com/item/THGBMHG9C4LBAIR-VFBGA-153-eMMC5-1-64GB-Flash-Memory/32653487163.html
128GB Variant:
http://fr.aliexpress.com/item/THGBMHT0C8LBAIG-TFBGA-153-eMMC5-1-128GB-Flash-Memory/32653124263.html
http://www.alibaba.com/trade/search?fsb=y&IndexArea=product_en&CatId=&SearchText=THGBMHT0C8LBAIG (Ask seller)
The only problem i see is like i said above, the chip size grew up to 0,4mm, so is it possible to do it without get an curved nexus?
Any ideas where and how is possible to put an SD Reader?
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Click to collapse
Searched for the 128GB chips and found this for USD$35. I can go as far as fitting the new 128GB chip but I have no idea how to proceed after that. Reading the thread about @KApetz2 and how he fitted a 64GB eMMC to his Nexus 5 you have to fix the partition tables to support the larger capacity storage or it wouldn’t recognize the upgrade. If someone can point me in the right direction, I might try it out.

KLD oreo 8 core 4gb ram 32gb rom just received very poor quality control

Hi all,
long time reader first time writer. I just got my KLD unit in the mail. I am very familiar with rooting android and have done many projects over the years with them. I'm an old guy that has been around since the beginning of PCs before they were available for individuals and only used in banking etc. I thought it would be a great idea to install a new HU in the car, I purchased a month ago, since it's stereo is okay but has limited capability. So I took the plunge and ordered a KLD unit with a blue tooth dbd II dongle and the Parrot Blue Tooth Module FT6000T. I ordered this unit because it is a new car and is made for my model. I like things looking factory. So far I have installed a backup camera, a DVR and other miscellaneous devices in the car. I though this would be a great addition since I have installed car radios, custom electronic devices, etc. since I was a kid. However; upon opening the box I was in for quite a surprise. I won't even attempt to install this unit as it is a pile of junk. The Power/Volume and Tune knobs are not even centered. The rear radio antenna input is off center I don't think it will even plug in without disassembling the unit. Maybe even require re-soldering the plug? I don't know as I'm not willing to take it apart as I am disgusted with the obvious problems with quality control. Finally, it's getting boxed up and sent back. I am taking the time to write all this as this board has helped me many times in the past, and I owe it to the community here. There are so many knowledgeable folks here I learn new stuff everyday. Thank you all! Sorry I didn't get to power it up and see how it works, but if the way it was assembled is any clue, I'm sure it has all kinds of problems that I don't want to deal with. I did a lot of research here before purchasing and thought the problems would be worth all the nice features; WRONG. So buyer beware!

Gartenzwergmann said:
Hi all,
long time reader first time writer. I just got my KLD unit in the mail. I am very familiar with rooting android and have done many projects over the years with them. I'm an old guy that has been around since the beginning of PCs before they were available for individuals and only used in banking etc. I thought it would be a great idea to install a new HU in the car, I purchased a month ago, since it's stereo is okay but has limited capability. So I took the plunge and ordered a KLD unit with a blue tooth dbd II dongle and the Parrot Blue Tooth Module FT6000T. I ordered this unit because it is a new car and is made for my model. I like things looking factory. So far I have installed a backup camera, a DVR and other miscellaneous devices in the car. I though this would be a great addition since I have installed car radios, custom electronic devices, etc. since I was a kid. However; upon opening the box I was in for quite a surprise. I won't even attempt to install this unit as it is a pile of junk. The Power/Volume and Tune knobs are not even centered. The rear radio antenna input is off center I don't think it will even plug in without disassembling the unit. Maybe even require re-soldering the plug? I don't know as I'm not willing to take it apart as I am disgusted with the obvious problems with quality control. Finally, it's getting boxed up and sent back. I am taking the time to write all this as this board has helped me many times in the past, and I owe it to the community here. There are so many knowledgeable folks here I learn new stuff everyday. Thank you all! Sorry I didn't get to power it up and see how it works, but if the way it was assembled is any clue, I'm sure it has all kinds of problems that I don't want to deal with. I did a lot of research here before purchasing and thought the problems would be worth all the nice features; WRONG. So buyer beware!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hello, I've been using it for three months on Hyundai Tucson 2016, everything works fine, and the second android, the first px5 2gb was a disaster, you could not make a decent call, I do not open the unit to see inside, I have at 10.1 inc and I am satisfied.

@OP, fancy taking a few photos. I've not heard of KLD, but according to the Hui Fei, it's Klyde? Again, not a brand I'm familiar with. The main players are Xtrons, Eonon, Joying, Pumpkin and the pricier Dynavin and to a lesser extent Erisin. There's a few lesser known brands, but obviously you start to fall into the murky world of unbranded stuff at that point.
I was able to find this Alibaba link: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/klyde-2-din-7-inch-head_60387926850.html
Which I must admit, doesn't inspire confidence. That front is utterly hideous with the chrome knobs. However, I suspect the rest of it is okay. Some photos would be good though to backup your remarks

sorry about the confusion
Hi Skezza and Conan, sorry for the confusion. I was a little pissy about the quality control when I wrote my review as I had just received the head unit. I am not able to post photos yet. Maybe because I'm a newbie? Maybe because this is the first time I've posted on a forum and don't know what I'm doing? Skezza you are correct it is a KLYDE unit from China. I bought it directly from the manufacture. It was literally built three days, at KLYDE before shipping, according to the chasse tag. My understanding is KLYDE sells to other companies that rebrand them. This was made vehicle specific. I am guessing that is why it was made three days before shipping? I decided to keep the unit. I was being a little too picky - I think about the flaws. I straightened out the antenna input with a wooden dowel. My son said the two knobs were not that far off center in the front. He knows I am a perfectionist. He is a computer engineer and tells me I obsess too much about imperfections with electronics. He should know as that's what he does day in and day out. So I agreed with him and installed the unit. I was disappointed with the external mic. In theory the mic plugs into an input. No way that was happening as they aren't even close to the same size. I have a couple of adapters laying around, but no dice. Very odd size on the head unit. Overall, so far, I have been impressed with it's features. Cold boots in about 10 seconds or so maybe faster. Love the flexibility of what it will do. I like the two micro SD slots. I don't know how many gigs they will support but so far no problems with a 32 gig card. The other slot is marked GPS which is good if a decent ROM comes out. I made a phone call, via Bluetooth and my wife said it was clear. I used the mic mounted in the head unit as I gave up on the external mic. The only things I am really disappointed about are the following: The mic button on the swc does not activate the mic. I am sure I'll find a solution. Mapping it so far is a no go. The factory car usb/ipod connector, the factory car AUX, and the factory mic don't work. The unit comes with two usb outputs. I may get brave and flush mount these somewhere in the interior, but I'm hesitant since it's a new car. IMHO the factory usb/ipod, aux, and mic should work as this is supposed to be plug and play according to KLYDE. Other than that I love this head unit. I did contact the seller and told him the problems with it. He was very polite and offered to let me send it back. However, by this time I had already installed it, and the minor flaws didn't affect the overall performance. I do have a photo of the unit installed. I will keep trying to post a photo. Skezza it looks bad when it's not installed. The facia you are seeing probably has the tabs for mounting and groves for the vehicle's trim. It looks factory. The chrome knobs are a little cheezy but there aren't many choices out there for a factory look. Everyone, so far, doesn't realize it's after market. When my wife isn't looking I may order an amp and after market speakers. Maybe even a sub woofer. The unit supports them so sounds like a fun project. German oompha music sounds great cranked up!

Gartenzwergmann said:
Hi Skezza and Conan, sorry for the confusion. I was a little pissy about the quality control when I wrote my review as I had just received the head unit. I am not able to post photos yet. Maybe because I'm a newbie? Maybe because this is the first time I've posted on a forum and don't know what I'm doing? Skezza you are correct it is a KLYDE unit from China. I bought it directly from the manufacture. It was literally built three days, at KLYDE before shipping, according to the chasse tag. My understanding is KLYDE sells to other companies that rebrand them. This was made vehicle specific. I am guessing that is why it was made three days before shipping? I decided to keep the unit. I was being a little too picky - I think about the flaws. I straightened out the antenna input with a wooden dowel. My son said the two knobs were not that far off center in the front. He knows I am a perfectionist. He is a computer engineer and tells me I obsess too much about imperfections with electronics. He should know as that's what he does day in and day out. So I agreed with him and installed the unit. I was disappointed with the external mic. In theory the mic plugs into an input. No way that was happening as they aren't even close to the same size. I have a couple of adapters laying around, but no dice. Very odd size on the head unit. Overall, so far, I have been impressed with it's features. Cold boots in about 10 seconds or so maybe faster. Love the flexibility of what it will do. I like the two micro SD slots. I don't know how many gigs they will support but so far no problems with a 32 gig card. The other slot is marked GPS which is good if a decent ROM comes out. I made a phone call, via Bluetooth and my wife said it was clear. I used the mic mounted in the head unit as I gave up on the external mic. The only things I am really disappointed about are the following: The mic button on the swc does not activate the mic. I am sure I'll find a solution. Mapping it so far is a no go. The factory car usb/ipod connector, the factory car AUX, and the factory mic don't work. The unit comes with two usb outputs. I may get brave and flush mount these somewhere in the interior, but I'm hesitant since it's a new car. IMHO the factory usb/ipod, aux, and mic should work as this is supposed to be plug and play according to KLYDE. Other than that I love this head unit. I did contact the seller and told him the problems with it. He was very polite and offered to let me send it back. However, by this time I had already installed it, and the minor flaws didn't affect the overall performance. I do have a photo of the unit installed. I will keep trying to post a photo. Skezza it looks bad when it's not installed. The facia you are seeing probably has the tabs for mounting and groves for the vehicle's trim. It looks factory. The chrome knobs are a little cheezy but there aren't many choices out there for a factory look. Everyone, so far, doesn't realize it's after market. When my wife isn't looking I may order an amp and after market speakers. Maybe even a sub woofer. The unit supports them so sounds like a fun project. German oompha music sounds great cranked up!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like a more positive resolution then. Photos would be great. I don't know exactly how Klyde work. I would suspect most of these companies order from the same factory, and then put their software and skins on etc. I've found the external mics don't provide a whole lot of extra benefit.

I also purchased a Klyde Android Headunit. I did not go directly to the manufacturer, only found out it was a Klyde unit after I got it installed and viewed the system info. Mine was the PX3 2GB model.
In my case I was satisfied with the build quality but I had a ton of issues from AUX not working, terrible android experience with the stock rom, apps missing or failing, Wifi disconnects, Bluetooth problems w/ OBD2 and Google play problems.
In less than 24 hours I devoured XDA topics on PX3's, rooting these units and rom options. I chose to go with the Hal9k ROM. All I have to say is I love the unit now, every issue I had was fixed with the rom, everything works as expected and I am very happy.
Summary: Klyde's stock setup sucks, get a rom on there and root it ASAP.

ddubbin said:
I also purchased a Klyde Android Headunit. I did not go directly to the manufacturer, only found out it was a Klyde unit after I got it installed and viewed the system info. Mine was the PX3 2GB model.
In my case I was satisfied with the build quality but I had a ton of issues from AUX not working, terrible android experience with the stock rom, apps missing or failing, Wifi disconnects, Bluetooth problems w/ OBD2 and Google play problems.
In less than 24 hours I devoured XDA topics on PX3's, rooting these units and rom options. I chose to go with the Hal9k ROM. All I have to say is I love the unit now, every issue I had was fixed with the rom, everything works as expected and I am very happy.
Summary: Klyde's stock setup sucks, get a rom on there and root it ASAP.
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Click to collapse
Seems to be a common theme the stock ROM's sucking balls lol.

Klyde and Erisin use the ****tiest mainboards you can imagine, thats their nr1 problem. Nr2 is the quality control. And the problem extends even further because Joying, Pumpkin and Eonon with PX cpus are all Klyde units.
We have been trough many klyde units wher i work, and while they fixed alot of issues with their 7.1 and onwards units, Their 5.1 MTCC was just pure garbage. we still get about 30% defective units back from customers. its insane.
Sadly not much help to you OP, but atleast it might be a warning for others.
Oh yeah their dual UI with windows isnt exactly the best ui on the planet. luckily we have Hal9k