Needed an inexpensive spare phone. Picked up a Nexus 5x 16GB for less than USD50, with problems (Unable to turn on, only red LED when trying to charge) so starting a project to revive it.
Stumbled across this thread.
Bit the bullet and bought the oudini UNLOCKED H791 32GB Mainboard with the 4GB RAM and a Da Da Xiong 3400mAh Battery to go with it.
Planning to do the copper heatsink mod too.
Was thinking of expanding on the idea of the copper heatsink mod with this Experimental "home-made" modding for heat dissipation mod. Aluminum foil was used along with liquid metal thermal compound in that thread. Not a good idea as liquid metal with aluminum is a recipe for disaster. I was thinking of using copper foil instead. Haven't decided on whether to use thermal paste or liquid metal. Also thinking of creating a bigger surface footprint for the "heat dissipation pipe" like the attached picture.
Your thoughts?
Will update once all parts arrive and I begin assembling. :fingers-crossed:
Attached Thumbnails
Good luck with that. Sounds like fun.
With that mainboard, is there any guarantee it won't start bootlooping a few months down the road?
Good to see somebody else dumping money into such a hobby
Aside from my daily driver 5X, I have another one now at the shop for a reballing job - kind of a long story, outcome still unknown
I don't think that whole 'heat pipe' situation is needed, you are going to be fine just with the copper pad.
I've been running it for a few days now and honestly it's more than enough. You won't get anymore performance out of this chip unless you go sub zero cooling or something.
Seriously, having it run at 30 to 40°C on daily normal usage and 40 to 50 in games or other intensive tasks is just fine.
Thermal throttling is also kept to a minimum, especially with the non-stock thermal configs.
That battery capacity is jank, you can't physically fit that much juice into that space.
The best battery you can get your hands on is a LG *allegedly* original unit from Amazon sold directly by LG. Other than that, you are always going to end up with some knock off that gives you, at best, the same battery life as a 3 year old original one.
Good luck with all this then.
But you'll probably ditch it all in a year's time for a Pixel, when you'll want that fresh Android. That's going to be my story, anyway.
AsItLies said:
Good luck with that. Sounds like fun.
With that mainboard, is there any guarantee it won't start bootlooping a few months down the road?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess there are no guarantees... My understanding is, this bootloop is caused by hardware problem with solder connections between the board, RAM and CPU. The RAM is packed with the CPU together on the top.
This main board has had a new RAM/CPU soldered on. So unless it was a shoddy job, it should all work. Now, under heavy load, heat builds, and when it gets too hot, there is a possibility of the solder connections giving problems again. Which is why I thought of doing the copper heatsink mods to reduce the chances of it happening. Also, with the 4GB of RAM, I am hoping it will have less stress on both CPU and RAM, which in turn will generate less heat, thus reducing the chances of the problems with the solder connections.
All this is just theoretical. I guess I have to build it and see how it goes. :fingers-crossed:
RO.maniac said:
Good to see somebody else dumping money into such a hobby
Aside from my daily driver 5X, I have another one now at the shop for a reballing job - kind of a long story, outcome still unknown
I don't think that whole 'heat pipe' situation is needed, you are going to be fine just with the copper pad.
I've been running it for a few days now and honestly it's more than enough. You won't get anymore performance out of this chip unless you go sub zero cooling or something.
Seriously, having it run at 30 to 40°C on daily normal usage and 40 to 50 in games or other intensive tasks is just fine.
Thermal throttling is also kept to a minimum, especially with the non-stock thermal configs.
That battery capacity is jank, you can't physically fit that much juice into that space.
The best battery you can get your hands on is a LG *allegedly* original unit from Amazon sold directly by LG. Other than that, you are always going to end up with some knock off that gives you, at best, the same battery life as a 3 year old original one.
Good luck with all this then.
But you'll probably ditch it all in a year's time for a Pixel, when you'll want that fresh Android. That's going to be my story, anyway.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don’t really game on phones but where I live, temperatures and humidity are quite high. Not looking for crazy performance, just hoping the phone stays cool and will last a while.
As for that battery, we’ll see. No harm trying after all. A guy on reddit bought one and said it does last longer than the original. If it sucks, I’ll just revert back to the original one.
This is just a small hobby/project, who knows how long I’ll use it. I actually already have a Pixel 2 XL. As I’ve mentioned, this is just a spare.
I also bought one of the 4GB boards (two actually) and replaced a dead N5X from ebay with the upgraded one. Works flawlessly, will post screenshots of the system info of 4GB RAM soon when I have my phone sorted.
I'm curious about that battery though - is it legit 3400MaH?
This is the 4GB board I bought, same as you. My first two didn't make it past chinese customs but he sent another two and they made it fine. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/oud...for-LG-H791-32GB-Motherboard/32846103543.html
AsItLies said:
Good luck with that. Sounds like fun.
With that mainboard, is there any guarantee it won't start bootlooping a few months down the road?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At the moment, no one reported bootloops on Nexus 5X with 4GB Ram. We will see in the future.
4GB board installed, just installing apps and setting it up etc. Feels snappier anyway. When installing ElementalX kernel, I set the read-ahead buffer from 512kb to 1024kb to adjust for the increased RAM.
Soon I will order one Motherboard. If my 5X will have bootloop again.
paradoxiumwind said:
I'm curious about that battery though - is it legit 3400MaH?
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Click to collapse
No idea but on the sellers ad, they say they use a EBC-A10H machine to test their batteries for the desired result. Also, there are a couple of brands besides the Da Da Xiong one that I bought. There's HSABAT, LOSONCOER and IBITION.
On reddit k3v1ng1994 says ;-
"Just wanted to update you on the extended battery.
I finally had it delivered a couple of days ago. I can confirm that the battery does so far last longer than the OEM battery- I just don't know exactly how much by.
The biggest issue is the battery has thrown my phone out of calibration. No longer can I see what battery percent I'm on (it always stays on 50%), and the screen on time isn't resetting when I put my phone on charge. I've tried many ways to try and recalibrate the battery, with no luck.
I would say it's not worth getting for this very reason. I'd rather be able to tell how much battery I have left, rather than have a longer battery life. But you might be interested in giving it a go, especially if you're rooted since you can take additional measures to calibrate the battery."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess there is an issue with calibration but I think should be an easy fix with a flash of stock images (or factory wipe) and batterystats.bin will be removed in /data/system... Should be calibrated after that. Not sure which brand he bought though. Who knows. Will try and see how it goes.
Got a notification, my items have been shipped!
Main board should arrive by the 2018-03-18 but the battery says 2018-04-08 . I've ordered stuff from China recently and they usually arrive before their estimates. Hopefully they get shipped out of the country before their Chinese New Year holidays. Then it's up to my country to deliver the goods.
Took apart the phone today and tried the "heating" method fix but it didn't work. I got as far as getting "Google" to appear on the screen then it gets stuck there.
Anyway, looking at the heatsink/"heat pipe" mods, I'll probably stick to thermal paste instead of liquid metal. Liquid metal is corrosive. Even with copper the metal ions will migrate into the copper metal, gradually creating a copper-gallium alloy that is grey-silverish in color. Which is why people think it's drying up. It's actually the copper absorbing the liquid metal.
Looking at what PC CPU heatsink are like these days, the contact point is usually copper, followed by aluminum fins for faster heat dissipation. Why not just follow that recipe. :silly:
So, looks like the copper foil I ordered won't be of any use now :laugh:.
Really don't think a heatsink mod is needed, in my old phone I used a 0.1mm(or 0.2mm I forgot) copper shim over where the CPU is, stuck it on with thermal paste, didn't make much difference in cpu temp.
paradoxiumwind said:
Really don't think a heatsink mod is needed, in my old phone I used a 0.1mm(or 0.2mm I forgot) copper shim over where the CPU is, stuck it on with thermal paste, didn't make much difference in cpu temp.
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Click to collapse
A .1 or .2 mm shim won't indeed change anything, it's way too thin for the chip to be in contact with the chassis. Especially if you don't remove the factory yellow pad and the thin foil from the chip shield.
With a .8 or .9 mm copper pad (can't tell for sure, I sanded down a 1mm pad) I can guarantee that you'll notice the temp difference, the throttling is almost gone.
It also depends on what thermal paste you use and how much of it.
Also to everybody wondering why the bootloop issue occures, here's a few things:
The 808 and 810 were the first x64 chips Qualcomm came up with as a response to Apple's. So you can imagine they aren't exactly well thought out, especially in the long run. You can do a bit of research to see how they just janked together some ARM cortexes, slammed a GPU in there and called it a day. Samsung even ditched the 810 from the S6 and used in-house silicon - I think we can safely assume Samsung knows its hw game.
The stock thermal config and kernel are absolute garbage and don't help at all with the thermal throttling that keeps the little cluster pinned at 1440Mhz and the big one off, anytime the package is above 46°C - that's most of the time. Now you tell me how easy that is on the hw.
These design flaws coupled with possibly bad soldering led to our problems. Even though it's hard to imagine that so many boards made it out of the production line with bad soldering since that's a mostly automated and very tidy job, leaving little to mistake.
RO.maniac said:
A .1 or .2 mm shim won't indeed change anything, it's way too thin for the chip to be in contact with the chassis. Especially if you don't remove the factory yellow pad and the thin foil from the chip shield.
With a .8 or .9 mm copper pad (can't tell for sure, I sanded down a 1mm pad) I can guarantee that you'll notice the temp difference, the throttling is almost gone.
It also depends on what thermal paste you use and how much of it.
Also to everybody wondering why the bootloop issue occures, here's a few things:
The 808 and 810 were the first x64 chips Qualcomm came up with as a response to Apple's. So you can imagine they aren't exactly well thought out, especially in the long run. You can do a bit of research to see how they just janked together some ARM cortexes, slammed a GPU in there and called it a day. Samsung even ditched the 810 from the S6 and used in-house silicon - I think we can safely assume Samsung knows its hw game.
The stock thermal config and kernel are absolute garbage and don't help at all with the thermal throttling that keeps the little cluster pinned at 1440Mhz and the big one off, anytime the package is above 46°C - that's most of the time. Now you tell me how easy that is on the hw.
These design flaws coupled with possibly bad soldering led to our problems. Even though it's hard to imagine that so many boards made it out of the production line with bad soldering since that's a mostly automated and very tidy job, leaving little to mistake.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't want to go OT, but understanding some things may help "solve" the heat / bootloop problem in non-bootlooping N5X. In stock kernel, through ExKernelManager, I've seen CPU at 96º C when taking photos with HDR+ With Jolla kernel and the big off, CPU hardly reaches 60º C. If soldering is not "the problem", an "accurate" kernel configuration will be enough to avoid the bootloop? Sorry if I misunderstood your explanation or if I ask something stupid. I know nothing about this, but I would love to learn something. Thanks!
CLPose said:
I don't want to go OT, but understanding some things may help "solve" the heat / bootloop problem in non-bootlooping N5X. In stock kernel, through ExKernelManager, I've seen CPU at 96º C when taking photos with HDR+ With Jolla kernel and the big off, CPU hardly reaches 60º C. If soldering is not "the problem", an "accurate" kernel configuration will be enough to avoid the bootloop? Sorry if I misunderstood your explanation or if I ask something stupid. I know nothing about this, but I would love to learn something. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All I'm saying is pure speculation, the web is filled with people talking bs about 808 and 810.
Also, Qualcomm, LG or Google never settled this with actual honest facts.
Another fact is that some Huawei made Nexus 6P devices bootlooped as well, so you can see how one could easily think that the root problem is the architecture itself of that generation of SoCs.
On the other hand, I can make an 'educated guess' about how a cooler running package prolongs its life and puts less stress on the 'allegedly' weak soldering.
So I think it's safe to assume that running a custom kernel and thermal config, along with other tweaks like the heatsink, will dramatically increase the life of your 5X.
Hello friends first forgive the translator's mistakes. I already knew this topic before but did not know that the motherboard had already been sold already modified.
My thanks to @LeonF for providing the link of the sale of the motherboard with 4GB of RAM.
I already have a functional 5x nexus, but I bought another today with the burned motherboard per US $40.00. Then I bought the motherboard per US $132.05 5% off.
Unfortunately I live in Brazil, the customs (IRS) here are horrible, it will certainly take up to 70 days for me to receive the product, as soon as arrive i come to post my opinion here... on a battery 3400mAh do not think it's good.
I have noticed with my 4gig ram board, my battery usage is really good. same battery. ordered two of those 3400mah ones though, but somehow more ram = better battery time
Copper shims arrived today. They're 15 x 15 x 0.8 mm. Took the phone apart, did a mock of the copper shim then cleaned off the yellow thermal pad...
So @Mortihead found a service that will replace your emmc chip to 32GB, 64GB or 128GB and mentioned I should try.
Mortihead said:
Taobao service now can change internal storage for 32/64/128GB in Nexus 5x
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a211ha.10565794.0.0.e9dd404sdwVlg&id=549749619850&toSite=main
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I got in touch with them and found out (as best as I can understand the WeChat translator) that the 128GB chips have been out of stock but they still have the 64GB ones and it will cost RMB280 to do it.
I found this chart from @ikfe from this thread of the part numbers...
ikfe said:
Sure, but my idea is not an occasional adaptater but a real memory extend like this thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/google-nexus-5/help/nexus-5-64gb-t3350533
I'm confused with 2 ideas :
-Add an SDCard slot (can be cool)
-Extend memory to 64 or 128gb (my advice SDCard still better)
On the iFixit Teardown guide, it says it's a Toshiba THGBMFG7C2LBAIL (16gb variant) chip.
And in the Toshiba catalog, like u can see downside, all chips seems to be the same type (P-WFBGA153).
The problem is the size of the chip. Upgrade can be easily done to 32GB (N5X Variant), or to 64 and 128 gb, up to 0,4mm difference.
Searched a bit on the web and finded some chips:
64GB Variant:
https://www.rutronik24.com/product/toshiba/thgbmhg9c4lbair/7782539.html
http://fr.aliexpress.com/item/THGBMHG9C4LBAIR-VFBGA-153-eMMC5-1-64GB-Flash-Memory/32653487163.html
128GB Variant:
http://fr.aliexpress.com/item/THGBMHT0C8LBAIG-TFBGA-153-eMMC5-1-128GB-Flash-Memory/32653124263.html
http://www.alibaba.com/trade/search?fsb=y&IndexArea=product_en&CatId=&SearchText=THGBMHT0C8LBAIG (Ask seller)
The only problem i see is like i said above, the chip size grew up to 0,4mm, so is it possible to do it without get an curved nexus?
Any ideas where and how is possible to put an SD Reader?
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Searched for the 128GB chips and found this for USD$35. I can go as far as fitting the new 128GB chip but I have no idea how to proceed after that. Reading the thread about @KApetz2 and how he fitted a 64GB eMMC to his Nexus 5 you have to fix the partition tables to support the larger capacity storage or it wouldn’t recognize the upgrade. If someone can point me in the right direction, I might try it out.
Related
sadly i don't have one of these elite-atrix which can stand massive overclocking without at some point reboot because of too much heat.
so i decided to do something against overheating.
what i did was tearing apart the atrix and removing the aluminium part covering the tegra II chip (and no this piece doesnt have any contact to the chip so it doesnt serve as heatspreader).
now i took some spare aftermarket ram cooler and grinded it down to the exact size of the chip.
next step was quite easy: just cut out some part of the inner plastic frame to have some space for the new built "cooler".
last but not least i just put a small drop of thermal paste onto that chip and pressed the new cooler on top. (sidenote: you shouldnt have to glue it. it will keep sticking there because of adhesion)
no i'm going to try wheather this has any effect at all gonna flash some 1.5/1.6 kernel and see if my atrix can handle the speed now
pictures and results follow soon (partly done)
btw any good app to log temps?
Here you go with some pictures (more to come):
Really cool. You are a brave one....
I might have to try it.
Thanks for the info.
Even running at stock speeds the heat management on this phone is horrendous. I actually think the overheating caused my digitizer problems.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app
Interesting, I hope you took some pictures. (and are willing to share!)
Hahaha, that's epic. Finally a real hardware mod for the atrix, please upload a picture!
Sent from my Atrix
I cant wait to see the pictures! XD
sorry mates, had no pc around and posting the first 10 times via tablet/smartphone is a pain in the ***
So the results are not that overwhelming but i'll surely try to figure out how to optimize all of this.
Results so far at stresstest
Clockspeed ..................................... Before ....................................... After
1000mhz max....................................working........................................ working
1300mhz max .........................reboot after some minutes..................... working
1450mhz max..........................reboot & bootloop soon.....................reboot after some minutes ... sometimes bootloop
as you can see there already is some slight increase of stability with overclocking, but i think that there can be done even more. just got to find a way how to squeeze even more heatsink into that little case without having to cut out any more will try with aluminium tape and also with some leftover copper heatsink soon
Copper should be better and maybe some holes in battery cover.
I hope that you're not going to try water cooling
no but got some copper heatpipes lying around XD
yes some holes in the cover would be better, but i really want to keep the outside stock.
well i also could also varnish some copper-plate into the backcover having contact to the heatsink on the cpu. so there would be a much bigger surface and of course allover masses. but i suppose if you hold this ting in your hand it would be too freaking hot. holding my finger down on that little heatsink while stresstesting can already be painfull. here i'm glad i got that plastic cover in between.
my plans are now to extend the heatsink over msdcard and simcard, since there is some good space left. maybe next days when i'll get home again
Actually copper plate into the backcover is great idea! Don't worry about heat because bigger surface and you still have plastic between heatsink and fingers
I did similar thing long time ago with zx spectrum
well then i need a really thin copper plate wich will not have that good effect on cooling, or i replace some area of the backcover with copper. then there would be heat issue (and aesthetic, too)
Try to find copper foil or easier aluminum foil. Just be careful to avoid electrical short circuit
Are you testing with or without the cover on?
What are you using to conduct the stress test?
I know you want to keep it stock, but an extended battery cover would give you lots of extra room and many have vents. Might even be able to squeeze a fan in there for active cooling!
atm i'm testing with back cover on. having stable oc only with back cover taken off doesnt make any sense since its unusable as daily driver.
i got some aluminium foil at home and some some fine copper plates.i'm sure i'll be able to work something out.
atm I'm using cm 7.2/miui hybrid with faux's 1450ghz 027b5 kernel. slightly undervolted.
mainly stresstesting with "StabilityTest". after about 10 mins of stresstesting i wouldn't get temps over 65°C still tweaking a bit, then i'll give some benchmarks a go and will see if i can get 1.6 ghz kernel running
still looking for some good tool for logging cpu temps or at least showing on screen/status baar. atm got to switch to setcpu and open cpu info tab to get some readouts.
I'm curious to see how 1.45Ghz kernel and tweaked stock rom will do in webtop-mode. hopefully this will be also run stable since webtop-charging also produces some extra heat. we'll see when i get my lapdock back from motorola ^^
extended back cover would be an option for space as long as i dont want to dock it to lapdock oder cardock, which i do multiple times a day. so no option for me.
i have also thought about adding a fan, but when i think about it, it's way to big, makes noise and drains even more juice. so this is a no-go.
if you would want to do extreme overclocking just for benchmarking this would be an option again. but then we would need a kernel with even higher clocks to get something groundbreaking...
so who starts with a LN2-cooled smartphone ?
Lol, fan is going to drain battery really fast. Only for extreme overclocking. Bigger heatsink, some holes or extended battery cover should be enough.
At the end he's going to overclock with liquid azote
Edit: system tuner pro could log data. Try it.
stresstesting @1450 faux kernel 027b5
while connected to a 1.6A charger and static 100% cpu-load i get temps of 86°C with the phone freezing.
got to play with some profiles here and maybe even more uv.
thanks for the tip with system tuner pro, looks promising. now i can get more accurate values and also log and see when the device crashes/reboots/freezes, etc
86°C is too much! Be careful, don't burn your phone
Zeljko1234 said:
86°C is too much! Be careful, don't burn your phone
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Click to collapse
lol Could fry some egg and bacon on it!
be sure that i know its way too hot. i set up some profiles in setcpu and undervoltet a bit more.
i'm trying to peek at even while powercharging 65° but for that i will have to improve the heatsink. atm i still get about 72 with limit of 1200 when over 65
Possiblу is replacement of procesor QUALCOMM QSD8250 on HTC HD2 with dual core 1.5GHz procesor similar with mainboard and other components?I mean CPU of another smartphone.Thanks in adviance
I don't even know if its possible, but there would be so many problems caused by doing that that it really wouldn't be worth it.
Sent from my NexusHD2 using xda app-developers app
It's probably not possible.
Too long a response: what I've seen inside the Leo.
I have the remains of 3 disassembled HTC HD2 units in the fight lab (aka storage).
I will warn that these units are never able to be put back together exactly perfect as they were initially. This is because they are assembled like thin layers of stickers stuck on top of each other you need to peel apart. There are layers of copper shielding, plastic, thin metal, etc. all sandwiched together with adhesive. I've taken apart damn near everything I can, (a personality trait and/or symptom of a disorder, a gift and a curse) and I can say that disassembling an iPhone is cake compared to peeling apart HD2s which are a curse.
So, upon peeling it apart, I encountered different CPU cooling techniques on the different units: yellow thermal compound on one, a thick red/orange thermal pad on the second, and a plastic piece stuck with a mystery compound (possibly even glue) on the 3rd. A faster chip will likely be even hotter.
Look into "reballing" when it comes to soldered cpu replacement. The complexities of the physical replacement are significant but the routing of correct functionality from the alien processor are what makes it a much more difficult project, but nothing is impossible.
One would have to have manufacturer schematics of the board, insider details of chips/other components if functionality is to be had even IF the physical removal and replacement of the processor was achieved. The physical install of a faster clocked chip I think we will see done successfully by someone, but the function of the hardware may be forever impossible unless what I believe is closed/unreleased code/info becomes public. If any device were to have it's complete wealth of detailed info released from company insiders/Dark Force Teams/Chinese anons/crafty work, et al, I'd bet it very well would be the Leo. (We can dream).
To be clear, I'm no chip alchemist at all, I'm just sharing what I've seen and been told by some professionals who know at least a little on what I generalize as computer hardware engineering. Having extensively researched (aka wasted too much of my life on) and even managed to discuss with some HP technicians about a tablet CPU upgrade of a soldered Dothan board, I learned that even if the CPU is successfully replaced (& it doesn't explode) it's more than likely the timings of the board may wind up very effed up. Being uncharted territory, there is no way to find out but to try. I appreciate it if I helped or something interesting came from my ramblings, I think clicking thanks helps me or something. Keep fighting and don't take apart your HD2 if you don't have another one handy!
If i change motherboard(cpu,ram and others) and replace them with another motherboard(with cpu,ram and others) but but outside HD2 is unchanged,with same display and buttons!This is a posable?Please tell me?
Drake Sanderson said:
If i change motherboard(cpu,ram and others) and replace them with another motherboard(with cpu,ram and others) but but outside HD2 is unchanged,with same display and buttons!This is a posable?Please tell me?
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Click to collapse
er, replace them with what? a quad core and 4gb from your pc? and why? are you skilled in microsoldering and chip reprogramming?
how much space is inside your phone and what do you really think the chances are of replacing anything?
did you not read the post above yours by ComputerFight. he has seen the inside of an HD2 and lived to tell the tale
i would usually answer 'anything is possible' but i think this one has to be a no
Even if it was possible, i don't understand what would you acomplish with it?
HD2 is legend because of it's wide variety of OSs, roms etc, not because of its hardware.. at least not anymore.
I would rather buy an new phone or used HD2 if i feel like playing around with flashing different operating systems.
If you do even manage to successfully solder and re-wire new hardware onto the HD2, it wouldn't be usable because there are no drivers for them. Someone who have to build hardware drivers from scratch or port them from other phones then every HD2 Rom would have to be re-done to work with the new hardware. I'm no tech expert but I hardware isn't the main problem, it's software. It would be cool if we got tegra 3 and more ram on the HD2 though, that would give the HD2 2-3 more years in a chance to run future roms.
Still another smartphone to make the appearance as being an HTC HD2?Do you think it possible?
Would you recommend a dual core cpu to pull out another smartphone and puts htc hd2 (as htc sensation xl)?
Drake Sanderson said:
Would you recommend a dual core cpu to pull out another smartphone and puts htc hd2 (as htc sensation xl)?
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Oh my god....
Found while researching the 5X bootloop of DEATH.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mV8_hsua4vo
Maybe too much paste and looks like in translation .8mm copper plate was used.
Any comments regarding this relatively simple mod.
omgdwong said:
Found while researching the 5X bootloop of DEATH.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mV8_hsua4vo
Maybe too much paste and looks like in translation .8mm copper plate was used.
Any comments regarding this relatively simple mod.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the square cover you used, is the same as the cutter cutter?
Enviado desde mi Nexus 5X mediante Tapatalk
I bought these copper shims: http://www.ebay.com/itm/261704004472
15mmx15mmx0.3-5-8-1, think I'm going to try just putting a 0.5mm shim on the CPU with some paste, none on the screen side, I don't want the area of the screen there getting too hot - the copper itself should act as a good heatsink
Why? The only thing this device needs is 4 gb RAM mod. Nothing else.
Sinistersky said:
Why? The only thing this device needs is 4 gb RAM mod. Nothing else.
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because putting a copper chim on the back of the CPU that overheats is a good temporary fix until I can organize shipping my phone to china? I'm talking to [email protected] in PM about it but it's hard because his english isn't very good. he says $200 without shipping for 128gb internal storage upgrade and 2gb-4gb ram upgrade.
paradoxiumwind said:
because putting a copper chim on the back of the CPU that overheats is a good temporary fix until I can organize shipping my phone to china? I'm talking to [email protected] in PM about it but it's hard because his english isn't very good. he says $200 without shipping for 128gb internal storage upgrade and 2gb-4gb ram upgrade.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let me know how that goes, as I would be very interested. I love the 5x, but there are a number of limitations that are starting to peek out.
16GB storage
2GB ram
CPU is fast enough for me, but overheats and throttles
Battery lasts ~4 hours SOT
If I could upgrade to 128GB, 4GB, cool the CPU with a copper shim and some modding, and then swap my old battery for an LG G2 3,000 mah one, I could see myself using this phone for several more years!
Or at least until Android P comes out, and I get upgrade envy.
I just finished this in the morning. Initially I got the idea from here: youtu.be/mV8_hsua4vo.
Used a 1mm thick, 15 x 15 mm copper pad that I bought locally, I couldn't get a 0.8mm one and waiting for an order from Aliexpress for such a tiny item is not my thing since our national post is a mess and it adds up like a week to an already huge delivery time.
So I sanded down the 1mm one to about probably 0.8, just enough so the board is not floating on it and the contacts for the ear piece are fine.
Removed the factory yellow pad, cut the thin foil off of the metal shield, slammed some DeepCool thermal compound that I had laying around and pieced it back together.
All I can tell you is that I can't get the CPU temp past 52°C. Tried all the trending benchmarks on the PlayStore, max brightness, streaming Play Music over bluetooth to my headphones, you name it.
That 52 is peak, doesn't stay there, at idle it ends up around 30 to 32 and some casual browsing with mid brightness goes up to around 40.
So the most is runs at when gaming or doing heavy tasks is between 40 and 50. Which is a massive improvement over stock temperatures and even better than the thermal config that I used to run (see bellow).
Worth mentioning that I'm running the extremeV4 thermal config, throttling temp at 51, EX Kernel with Heimdall_5x_v4 profile for the interactive governor.
The screen is NOT getting too hot, in fact it used to get hotter before, without the copper pad.
Sorry I don't have any photos, but I don't have another camera, just an old GoPro H3+B - useless.
Tried this too. Didn't seem to do much though.. Tried this test and CPU didn't reach even close to 40 degrees Celsius. Weird thing was that the two faster cores quickly went offline after starting the test though..
EDIT: I used a 1 mm thick thermal pad but now notice a blue spot around the cpu. I can also see a curvature in the screen under the right lighting. Maybe the thermal pad is too thick? I figured a 1 mm pad could be squished down to 0.8 mm if it would be too thick..
I just saved mine via fastboot with a modified img but having two disabled cores bothers me. I thought about replacing the motherboard or upgrading/replacing the two cores to a new one with 4gb ram and then adding the heat sink. Do you guys think it's worth it or should I just leave it be
Hi,
i made the mod a few days ago. i used a 0,8mm 15 x 15 mm copper pad.
It works great.
But today i used gps the first time since the mod and got a big problem. I was driving with maps und a had a few seconds gps then searching for gps then a few seconds gps and searching again.
Anyone alse noticed some problems with gps after this mod?
Or any ideas what could happend?
I had the same issue with GPS, seems like only done encounter the issue. I just had to get a new thermal pad. Found some Arctic thermal pad that is .5mm thick and used that.
Here is a post of mine in another thread
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=75586886&postcount=26
the_desaster said:
Hi,
i made the mod a few days ago. i used a 0,8mm 15 x 15 mm copper pad.
It works great.
But today i used gps the first time since the mod and got a big problem. I was driving with maps und a had a few seconds gps then searching for gps then a few seconds gps and searching again.
Anyone alse noticed some problems with gps after this mod?
Or any ideas what could happend?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
octavioromo said:
I had the same issue with GPS, seems like only done encounter the issue. I just had to get a new thermal pad. Found some Arctic thermal pad that is .5mm thick and used that.
Here is a post of mine in another thread
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=75586886&postcount=26
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok thank you. seems like not everyone got this problem.
i will try to press the backcover a bit on the mainboard next time.
if that doesnt help i try with the thermal pad or maybe a thinner copper pad.
are your temps better with the pad than original?
I couldn't use the copper pad at all, and it wasn't a clearance issue. I tried a thinner shim and I had the same issue. Send like there is some sensor or something that gets blocked by using a metal shim. I used CPU throttling test and it said performance improved by about 10 percent or so. But in real world it's a bit better but essentially couldn't use the copper pad.
octavioromo said:
I couldn't use the copper pad at all, and it wasn't a clearance issue. I tried a thinner shim and I had the same issue. Send like there is some sensor or something that gets blocked by using a metal shim. I used CPU throttling test and it said performance improved by about 10 percent or so. But in real world it's a bit better but essentially couldn't use the copper pad.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the copper pad in there and I use Strava and Google Maps almost every day but never had a GPS problem.
I still believe you are encountering a problem with the antennas' pins not making contact with the board.
There just can't be any shielding or any problem from the copper pad, since the whole back of the display is a big chunk of aluminum that would mess the GPS even more if that would be the problem.
RO.maniac said:
There just can't be any shielding or any problem from the copper pad, since the whole back of the display is a big chunk of aluminum that would mess the GPS even more if that would be the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
makes sense... but than an 0.8mm copper shim seems to be to thick.
i dont used to much thermal paste...
do you know which of the pins on the backcover are for gps-antenna?
maybe i can try to improve the contact.
if that doenst work i will try an thermal pad.
Desaster
This only works with the stock rom?
Rojas2018 said:
This only works with the stock rom?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WTF this is a simple mod to improve cooler, hardware is not changed so it work with any rom
[GS] said:
WTF this is a simple mod to improve cooler, hardware is not changed so it work with any rom
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool!
Paste
Is it necessary to use thermal paste, or can I use glue?
I just took out the copper pad because I lost all gps signal and after troubleshooting every other possible cause, I went with the "rumour" that the pad is causing interference. And oh man, it does!
I have no idea how my gps worked for like 8 months, since I got the mod in. Still, Strava was losing signal here and there, generating zig-zag lines, but I blamed it on the app.
Now everything is fine, I get signal from at least 6 fixed satellites and Strava is super stable.
I guess I'm back in line to get the bootloop now, the SoC is back running in the 70s and 80s C.
So I think you can forget about this mod unless you don't care about proper gps signal.
I've read about the faulty battery issue, and sudden reboots/bootloop issue.
Is there a way to minimize the risk, if I can check the device physically?
Checking the manufacturing date? Checking how many hours are left under "battery" in settings?
Any advice would be appreciated, Thanks!
Don't buy this phone. There are so many issues with this thing. My network signals all of a sign went kaput (the network chip got fried go figure!). No I'm stuck with a giant iPod. Save your money and buy something else (serious advice).
I agree, don't buy this phone used. You have no way to test the battery and other issues might appear.
My phone is a year old and I have already gotten a couple of sudden shutdowns. In addition people often complain that they can't hear me and my voice is intermittently muffled.
i wouldn't recommend getting this phone used, especially this late in the game... you can't just ignore all the issues being posted
I stumbled across this because I am buying a used 64gb 6p on eBay right now (7- 22- 2018). My research shows that if one comes across a survivor of the bootloop death (which can be overcome by disabling the 4 large cores, why bother) AND one is willing to eventually buy a $15 battery kit and can use a heat gun effectively, the Nexus 6p is THE best phone right now for no more than $150. The 128gb can be had for $180. If one buys one manufactured later than 2/2016, the battery lasts longer and supposedly some other minor bugs were fixed.
For $150 even if you only get one year from it I believe it's worth it. Phones now are so expensive unless your signing your life away on a plan.
Battery problems, heat and lag issues. Can't wait to upgrade to Pixel 3 or anything else. I wouldn't recommend spending money on this peace of ... I loved the phone when it worked as supposed to, but now it just don't. Oh, and microphone problems when using speakerphone are also common.
I bought mine on ebay 64 gb for 150, it had a bad battery so i got them to refund $50. i paid like $15 to fix it been working absaloutey fine for 5 months so far. No lag at all for me or random reboots, all my cores work,signal works fine, and so do calls . I dont really know how it is on stock i have been on abc rom and franco kernel the whole time and loving the phone
This might be irrelevant to OP but here's my 2 cents
I bought one (exterior is almost mint) a few weeks ago and I couldn't be happier. I got it for $100 (from a guy that badly needed some money to go on holiday ) and honestly, I would say it's comparable to new mid range $300+ phones, even surpassing them in some regards - camera, software support, build quality, design, "feel". I'm not even sure why I bought it, since my trusty Z2 is still holding on, I guess I couldn't resist that price.
I knew what I was getting into, I read about all the problems beforehand, but I figured if it didn't get the bootloop till now, it probably won't. Also, I ordered a new battery off Aliexpress the day I got the phone. Screen On time used to be 2-3 hrs with random shutdown at 15-5%, now after replacement I'm getting ~5 hrs. Great success.
So for the 3 people out there looking to buy this phone, you can expect:
-bad battery life and random shutdown (just get a new one, they're dirt cheap)
-minor burn-in of the navbar (I notice it on white backgrounds only)
-getting warm after using it a while BUT it's a lot better after replacing the battery
-yellowish tint of the screen (I notice it since I'm coming from a cold LCD)
+camera performance comparable to flagships, especially with the Pixel camera app
+sexy design
+great build quality
+smooth overall
+very potent double speakers
+VERY fast charging with the original charger
I bought a used 128gb from a "refurbish" mill for $150 on eBay. It went dead after 2 days. Total battery/system failure and no joy with the charger. I got a free return shipping label and a full refund.
The same day I resolved to buy from an individual who can answer questions. If the seller couldn't tell me the manufacture date they were dropped from the watchlist. My research seemed to indicate that units made after 2/2016 were the ones to get.
I bought a 64gb made in 10/2016 from a guy on eBay for $100. It's in better than near mint condition. Google announced the end of the Nexus brand the same month so this has to be one of the last made. Everything is perfect (including Oreo 8.1) except that AccuBattery reports 60% battery health. I concur with all that skullzhunter said.
I already planned to change the battery, but 60% health will buy me some time before I have to track down a heatgun. The battery kits are cheap and contain all the special tools for the job.
I'd like to hear from skullzhunter what the date of manufacture is on his phone (for others, boot into recovery and select "barcodes"). Also, were you able to remove the top and bottom covers intact? I imagine the trick is to apply enough heat. The question is, how much heat is TOO much? Any tips on re-installing those little covers with future access in mind?
Lawrencetate1 said:
I bought a used 128gb from a "refurbish" mill for $150 on eBay. It went dead after 2 days. Total battery/system failure and no joy with the charger. I got a free return shipping label and a full refund.
The same day I resolved to buy from an individual who can answer questions. If the seller couldn't tell me the manufacture date they were dropped from the watchlist. My research seemed to indicate that units made after 2/2016 were the ones to get.
I bought a 64gb made in 10/2016 from a guy on eBay for $100. It's in better than near mint condition. Google announced the end of the Nexus brand the same month so this has to be one of the last made. Everything is perfect (including Oreo 8.1) except that AccuBattery reports 60% battery health. I concur with all that skullzhunter said.
I already planned to change the battery, but 60% health will buy me some time before I have to track down a heatgun. The battery kits are cheap and contain all the special tools for the job.
I'd like to hear from skullzhunter what the date of manufacture is on his phone (for others, boot into recovery and select "barcodes"). Also, were you able to remove the top and bottom covers intact? I imagine the trick is to apply enough heat. The question is, how much heat is TOO much? Any tips on re-installing those little covers with future access in mind?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting trick with the Barcodes, seems my phone was manufactured in November 2015.
The operation was more difficult than I expected, but I managed to remove the covers with minor marks. You have to be VERY patient and careful, and you don't necessarily need a heat gun, a hair dryer will do. I don't think you can apply too much heat really, the frame will quickly get much hotter than the glass/plastic pieces but it cools down just as quick. Just heat it up until you can't touch the aluminium, there's nothing you can damage.
A trick that I unfortunately discovered after putting everything back together would be to use a sticker/vinyl skin to lift the covers from the corners (after heating), instead of digging in the gaps - as there are no gaps really.
So other than a hair dryer, you will need a 1.5 philips screwdriver, some thin plastic pieces to keep the screen assembly from snapping back into the case when you pry it open, and most importantly the thinnest strongest piece of metal you can find.
I used some tiny 3M double sided sticky strips to stick the pieces back and kept some of the old glue as well, I removed the gunky parts only. I think there are different glues used for top and bottom, the one on top being easier to reuse, but the bottom piece kinda sinks in the hole, so you need to leave just a little bit and press really hard so it snaps into place. I think it will be 10x easier to remove them now if I ever need to.
As the title says, I found a way to improve our device in a way not many would have imagined, I have been using this tablet for 5 years and maybe current tablets like my tab s2 outperform the note, however, I insist that our tablet still have game, after breaking the original logic board of my note pro doing experiments about heat dissipation, I ordered a new one and when I used the note again with the new logic board I realized that it wasn't practical to use because it generated too much heat, throttling and eating battery like a monster, after more study and analysis I concluded that there was a way to improve this heat tablet.
In the attachments you can see our tablet logic board and it's SoC's heatsink, the original thermal band dissipating the heat was small, slim and probably deteriorated because of the years, I concluded that changing the thermal band for a better one would help, so I buyed an alphacool 17kwm of 0.5 mm (slimmest) thermal pad and applied it, well, I must say that it vastly improves the tablet, of course, it won't make the device run like a snapdragon 855, but it will run much faster at lower temperatures, for instance, before this mod Temps playing Lego star War would hit 91 C and the crash, after the mod I can play comfortably and Temps would go to max 80 to 90 after prologated use without crashing, that and the overall sensation of the tablet improves, if someone have a doubt about the mod or the thermal pad to buy, feel free to ask, with this mod I think we can spread new life to our tablets.
After searching the thermal pad I used for the mod I founded that there was another brand making the same pad, in the thumbnails is both brands of thermal pad, as you can see there is a clear price difference between the alphacool and the fujipoly, as someone who have used both brands I can tell that there are no practical differences in choosing one or another brand.
Once you have the thermal pad and the tablet disarmed, you have to get a slim but large screwdriver to extract the heatsink from the motherboard, once you do that you have to cut a piece of thermal pad of the size of the SoC/CPU (which is detailed in the first thumbnail), then put the heatsink in its place, see that all flex's, connectors and the like are well connected so your device boots fine.
Hello JohnKCG,
Is this pad also usable?
Alliexpress: 100x100mm 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad Sheet Computer CPU Graphics Chip Heat Sink Heatsink Cooling Conductive Thermal Pad New
(I can not yet post complete links, sorry)
I to want to continue using this tablet!