Need to factory reset one of my old head units to move on to someone else. Issue is I have since sold the car that it was fitted to so don't have a way of powering the unit that I know of.
Has anyone got any idea on a quick way to power a head unit without the use of a car? I.e. if I can create a quick Ghetto power supply to power the unit on with at home so I can perform the reset on the device.
MONGO_abaday said:
Need to factory reset one of my old head units to move on to someone else. Issue is I have since sold the car that it was fitted to so don't have a way of powering the unit that I know of.
Has anyone got any idea on a quick way to power a head unit without the use of a car? I.e. if I can create a quick Ghetto power supply to power the unit on with at home so I can perform the reset on the device.
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Use a regular 12 V 2 A power supply or a PC-power supply. Tie yellow and red to +12, black to ground.
Thanks. I have an old Laptop Power Supply that I should be able to use hopefully if that's the case
halloj said:
Use a regular 12 V 2 A power supply or a PC-power supply. Tie yellow and red to +12, black to ground.
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Click to collapse
i am going to try this
Related
HelloAll,
Ive had my new head unit installed for two days now, and been through all the settings etc checked all the leads and cant see anything wrong, but have had to put my car battery on charge twice now.
It seems the head unit drains the battery when I turn the car ignition off.
Also I have an airbag fault, but I thought this was just due to me unpluging the passenger side airbag warning light when I was fitting the unit.
its a Erisin ES3015V 8" VW Android 5.1
The only thing I left unpluged was the old GPS antenna as not needed (would this cause a drain if touching something, forgot to tape it up)
Also due to the instructions being in pigeon english can any one advise how I should set the dip switches on the back.
see pics attached.
Many kind regards
Guy
HAGster1969 said:
HelloAll,
Ive had my new head unit installed for two days now, and been through all the settings etc checked all the leads and cant see anything wrong, but have had to put my car battery on charge twice now.
It seems the head unit drains the battery when I turn the car ignition off.
Also I have an airbag fault, but I thought this was just due to me unpluging the passenger side airbag warning light when I was fitting the unit.
its a Erisin ES3015V 8" VW Android 5.1
The only thing I left unpluged was the old GPS antenna as not needed (would this cause a drain if touching something, forgot to tape it up)
Also due to the instructions being in pigeon english can any one advise how I should set the dip switches on the back.
see pics attached.
Many kind regards
Guy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You may have swapped B+ and ACC. Normally B+ is yellow and carries +12 continuously. While ACC is normally red and should only carry +12 when your key is in ACC or further.
Concerning Airbag-light. Some cars need an airbag-light reset through the OBD-bus or manufacturer-bus. Sometimes it's good enough to disconnect the battery for some hours to clear various lights. I doubt that in your case since your battery been drained already. Maybe not low enough to clear the OB-computer.
thank you for the reply.
I might have sorted the power drain, flipping dip switch no 3 to off has now enabled the unit to shut down fully when the keys are removed from ignition, and now the standby option works so i can takekeys out and then have unit in instant on mode for 30 secs, 2 mins up to 2 hours etc before it completly shuts down.
I was thinking the light just needs a reset ill go see my friend who has a vag box to reset the light
Thank You
Similar problem
Hello,
Sorry to bring this back up...
I have a similar situation, but my unit Eonon GA6157f is installed in an Audi a3 with a BOSE unit.
h t t p ://www.eonon.com/Android-Car-GPS/Vehicle-Specific-GPS/GA6157F.html?Catype=1
(remove spaces)
The above solution did not work...
Does anyone else have any ideas of how to solve this?
I get a dead battery after 24 to 36 hours
thanks
Hello.
I have same problem with Audi A3 with Bose. Any solution?
Hello, i own a Joying PX5 2Gb with Android 6.0.1 which I really enjoy and I have the fast-boot function.
I really like this, I start the car and within less than 2 seconds the head unit is ready.
But i don't get how this works, my car didn't start a whole day and the day after that it also powers on in 2 secs. how does it find its power to keep the head unit in stand-by ?
I can't power it on when my car isn't started so i guess there is no 12v without ignition, that I don't understand.
I also wonder - is this like the "Sleep" function on a computer? Will the units need a full cold restart every now and again to flush things out?
up
https://www.ubiquitous-ai.com/en/products/os/quickboot/
rigattoni said:
https://www.ubiquitous-ai.com/en/products/os/quickboot/
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Click to collapse
It is not the ubiquitous fast boot and it is not a cold boot hibernation method.
All head units have a hardware part (radio chip, AMP, bluetooth, MCU, USB, etc.) and an Android part. The FYT units (most Joying, some KLD, some FunRover, some Witson and a few more) bring the android part into deep-sleep, and switch off the hardware part completely.
If the non-android hardware parts would remain under power it would drain your car battery in 2-3 days, so that is completely switched off.
Keeping the android memory under power will last at least 30 days, but possibly 50-60 days.
That's why you have the constant power and "switch on/off contact" ACC+ wire (ACC= Accessory power. To power your accessories, whatever they are, which you only need with contact on).
If you switch off contact, the acc off is detected in the FYT units, generating a broadcast "com.fyt.boot.ACCOFF" (and "com.fyt.boot.ACCON" when contact is turned on). Some FYT apps stop "voluntarily". Other apps are killed by the system server (SofiaServer on Sofia, 000000_com.syu.ms on the PX5). And then the MCU only keeps memory under "power" using the constant power line.
Traditional hardware (AMP, radio chip) only take milliseconds to "be ready" when power is put back. Android 3-5 seconds (2 seconds is a very optimistic estimate from Joying).
maybe lineo warp, it creates a snapshot of the system that just booted and save it on SD, so for the next time, kernel has fully booted and inited, just the final part of the UI had to start.
https://www.lineo.co.jp/products/warp2.html
I installed one of these units in my Alfa 147 yesterday and am having a problem where it will boot from completely off most of the time. Occasionally it will boot from standby in around 3 seconds, but most of the time i have to sit through the entire boot from cold sequence.
I definitely have my ignition and constant wires the right way around, and I don't think it's a battery issue. I tested the voltage of the constant 12V and it only dipped to 10 or 11V when starting the engine. The problem also arises when just turning the key to the second position which rules out the starter motor bringing the voltage too low.
Any suggestions on how to fix this would be much appreciated.
Side note: the surround/bezel which came with the cage (from xtrons) doesn't fit over the head unit. Anyone else have this problem? It's pretty ugly having the cage exposed.
I have the same unit and I just installed it. I tried connecting by either switching A4 and A7 (my car is Peugeot 107 and this is how it should be, similar to your Alfa I believe), and without switching them, and it's the same. Also, I set the timeout on powering off when ACC is off to 10 minutes, but my head unit turns off immediately.
I've since figured out that in my case i was just expecting too much of it. I thought that it would stay in standby indefinitely as long as it had a power source. Turns out it will only stay in standby for as long as you set the ACC off timeout for, which is 1 hour maximum. I think this must be because it consumes too much power even in standby and would drain your car battery over night.
The way mine behaves now is that if i turn the ignition off it will go in to standby for one hour. During this hour it will turn back on within a couple of seconds when the ignition is turned back on. After that hour, it will need to boot from cold. This isn't actually too bad as it usually takes less than 10 seconds for a cold boot.
My main gripe with this unit now is how much the screen is recessed behind the bezel. Due to the angle it's at in my car this means that the bezel obstructs half of the notification bar when i'm sat in my natural driving position.
Actually, it turns out it works OK for me as well. I dropped the adapter that switches A4 and A7, and it works fine. It has it's flaws (today being a really sunny day, I wished display was a bit brighter), but it's a nice upgrade on my 2008 car stereo.
I know what you mean about the brightness. It's just about usable on a bright day though so not a deal breaker.
I can recommend the DVR019 dash cam if you don't have one by the way. Super cheap and easy to install - just requires USB connection to the head unit.
Let me know if you figure out anything useful about this unit.
Are you guys happy with the sound quality? I am looking into buying same unit.
Did you buy any special harness to connect to the car?
Set timeout to autosleep instead of timed, that way it'll always boot in seconds, mine starts instantly even two days later
Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Mr.R™ said:
Set timeout to autosleep instead of timed, that way it'll always boot in seconds, mine starts instantly even two days later
Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
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Can you explain how to do that? I only have the option for 10 minutes, 30 minutes and 1 hr and it doesn't work on any
Xtrons Androind installing
Hi!
Did you get any answer or solutions to this, after all..? I have the same problem, and originally installed the car navigator to get powered from the ACC cable.
I didnt try this yet, but i bet to use the 10min / 30min / 1 hour switch off, the navigator should be wired to the yellow 12V cable to get continuos electricity, and not to the ACC cable, what gives eletricity ONLY when you turn on the car..
Of course without the turn off timer, it would drane out the whole battery.. I think 30min delay would be pretty cool, the time to go for examle to a store and come back, and find the android system still fast and rdy to go..
Hi everyone,
I am currently fighting to get my HU working again (here), but I wanted to post a side question here for all the electricians out there, since it doesn't really have anything to do with flashing the unit.
I got myself a power supply, that outputs around 13V and can go up to 10.5A. It was previously used to power another HU so it should be working fine. However, when I connect the Android HU, it refuses to do anything. The display stays black and nothing is really happening. I connected the Power and S-Contact (?, the one that gets power once you turn the key) to the + and the Ground to the - outlet of the PU. I'm not sure, if I need anything else. It really does just stay black. I measured the voltage on the end of the Quadlock connector and it _does_ output about 13.5V, so it definitely has power.
Any ideas on what else I could try? Thanks in advance.
SIrThanksalot
SirThanksalot said:
I got myself a power supply, that outputs around 13V and can go up to 10.5A. It was previously used to power another HU so it should be working fine. However, when I connect the Android HU, it refuses to do anything. The display stays black and nothing is really happening. I connected the Power and S-Contact (?, the one that gets power once you turn the key) to the + and the Ground to the - outlet of the PU. I'm not sure, if I need anything else. It really does just stay black. I measured the voltage on the end of the Quadlock connector and it _does_ output about 13.5V, so it definitely has power.
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Click to collapse
Blown fuse in the (back of the) unit? Did you check that?
surfer63 said:
Blown fuse in the (back of the) unit? Did you check that?
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Click to collapse
Hi surfer63,
yes, indeed, that was the first thing I did. Still looking good (the "bridge" is still connected)
SirThanksalot said:
Hi everyone,
I am currently fighting to get my HU working again (here), but I wanted to post a side question here for all the electricians out there, since it doesn't really have anything to do with flashing the unit.
I got myself a power supply, that outputs around 13V and can go up to 10.5A. It was previously used to power another HU so it should be working fine. However, when I connect the Android HU, it refuses to do anything. The display stays black and nothing is really happening. I connected the Power and S-Contact (?, the one that gets power once you turn the key) to the + and the Ground to the - outlet of the PU. I'm not sure, if I need anything else. It really does just stay black. I measured the voltage on the end of the Quadlock connector and it _does_ output about 13.5V, so it definitely has power.
Any ideas on what else I could try? Thanks in advance.
SIrThanksalot
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Click to collapse
I just did this yesterday with a 14.4v 8.5amp wall wart i had and it is working perfectly for me. Without reading your other thread, I would wager the issue isn't the power source...
Good Luck!!!
pseudus said:
I just did this yesterday with a 14.4v 8.5amp wall wart i had and it is working perfectly for me. Without reading your other thread, I would wager the issue isn't the power source...
Good Luck!!!
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Click to collapse
Thanks
Well, the issue is the software. The unit just won't go out of recovery mode.
However, because I needed to sit in the car while trying to fix it, I thought that having it inside the house would be a more convenient solution. Also, that way I could quickly switch between SD cards and also not drain the car battery. So the unit is turning on when it's connected to the car, but not at home.
Is there by any chance another connector, that would prevent it from turning on?
SirThanksalot said:
Hi everyone,
I am currently fighting to get my HU working again (here), but I wanted to post a side question here for all the electricians out there, since it doesn't really have anything to do with flashing the unit.
I got myself a power supply, that outputs around 13V and can go up to 10.5A. It was previously used to power another HU so it should be working fine. However, when I connect the Android HU, it refuses to do anything. The display stays black and nothing is really happening. I connected the Power and S-Contact (?, the one that gets power once you turn the key) to the + and the Ground to the - outlet of the PU. I'm not sure, if I need anything else. It really does just stay black. I measured the voltage on the end of the Quadlock connector and it _does_ output about 13.5V, so it definitely has power.
Any ideas on what else I could try? Thanks in advance.
SIrThanksalot
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Click to collapse
Could you post a picture of how you have it setup with what. I really need to be able to do this. My device may had well be a brick
I picked this head unit up and it works well when it works. It will work fine one day and then the next time I get in the truck it won't power on. I've found that if I pull the unit out, unplug the wiring harness and plug it back in it comes back to life. Last time I did this it hard reset and I lost all customization. I had the accessory turned on setting it back up. Turned the acc off, started the truck and it's dead again. Anyone have an idea why? Cheap Chinese torture device? Thanks!