Database Users

Camera on X10

Guys
How would you able to take good shots on X10?
Why is it blurred or like my pics is taken on an Iphone cam. Too much noise etc and not good. It's like I'm using a VGA or 0.3 cam.
Can you guys advice me a good settings or tips to make the cam better
TIA

I got the same issue, the pic taken by X10 is worse than X1 (8M VS 3M)
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Post some examples.. My phone takes great pics.

Here are the sample shot.
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a few mine findings on x10 camera..
when is enough light there is no problem, auto settings is good.
when taking pic indors but with enougt light use sport setting, then pic will not be blured (same for video) coz exposure time is shorter, but if there is not enough light pic will be tooo dark with sport setting, then use defaul setting and try to keep phone steady as you can while focusing and while pressing key and second after that..
i got great results

Pics
Personally, I find the camera fantastic (until you zoom right, right in). It almost seems like they've used a 4mp camera and doubled the res as the pixels seem very blocky close up.
I'll upload when i can!

I never changed the settings or MP nor cam I enabled photo light too on some shots.
Example of a very good light condition is my laptop. you see its disgusting. the light is from bulb that is very good, and yet I get a crappy pics even with image stabilizer on

i've also noticed that image stabiliser make pic even worse, with that option i got less details, washed out colours...

Man those pictures look like NOTHING my X10 makes. You are either the worst photographer or there's something wrong here. Here's a few I made with my X10:

I've had no problems with the camera either.. i've really good quality photos with the X10. the only i have is the ease of access to the flash

Any tips? I'm bad at photography I know that that's why I'm asking for what settings what things do to etc.?

gr3yh0und said:
Any tips? I'm bad at photography I know that that's why I'm asking for what settings what things do to etc.?
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EV -7 when is too much light.
EV -3 in "normal" conditions
Always keep the sun behind you.
Also, depending what you shoot you can change the metering.

Well, my X10i also takes great pictures, and i usually use automatic settings. Here are some samples (I resized image size, just click the thumbnails):

Yeah those things bugs me
The metering too.
What should I set to this center average?

Well, my X10 also takes good pictures, one thing i noticed on your shots is that they're not focused and all blurry, did you wait until the focus was alright ? (when semi pressing the camera button, the focus in the middle of the screen should become green or red if it thinks the focus is not good enough)
Also, for close-up shots you should definitely enable macro mode.
here's an example i just took of a 20ct coin, with low lighting :
(unfortunately i can't give any higher res pic since i can't post links :/)

I had blurry pictures when I first got my x10.. but after setting the camera to "Scene Reognition" under Capturing Mode, it fixed all the problems. Hope that helps

i use touch fokus and now take better pictures

i have the same problem as gr3yh0und
and i dont know what to do ?!!
please someone tell me the ebst setting for camera

My pictures are too soft.
Way too soft.
I will have to give it a try without image stabilization to see if it makes a difference.

Here's a low-light shot from tonight... Went to the Airport park.
It's geotagged correctly on flickr as well.

Camera tips! #2

Hi once again, everyone.
I've noticed that when using the flash on our Desire HDs, there is an extreme increase in warm colours. In other words, the picture will come out very yellow. This tip is only meant for indoors and macro shots, where lighting is needed, as outside pictures are balanced beautifully. To resolve the green-yellowish hue, hit the menu button while you're in the camera app. Go to White Balance, and touch Flourescent. Now take a picture, the picture will come out with more realistic colours. Do bear in mind that if pictures are not to your liking, you can use Photoshop, or for faster results, the built-in effects for our phones. Oh, and turn your ISO down to 100 when taking macro shots, or outdoors on a sunny day. Pictures are much more impressive and high quality.
Edit: it would seem ISO 100 images are better quality but overexpose extremely close macro shots. ISO 800 is recommended for this procedure
Remember to consult hamdir's guide for other problems

nice, ill try your flash tip tonight, if it works ill add it to the guide, if you don't mind
its seems your enjoying your camera as much as i do
autofix in the gallery effects improves tinted and badly contrasted pictures quit nicely

hamdir said:
nice, ill try your flash tip tonight, if it works ill add it to the guide, if you don't mind
its seems your enjoying your camera as much as i do
autofix in the gallery effects improves tinted and badly contrasted pictures quit nicely
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Of course I won't mind, we're both equally interested. You're my xda brother I guess xD anyways if I find other solutions i'll let you know, that way your guide can be a solution-for-all for everyone who not only has a Desire HD, but also any modern camera

awesome! it works well thanks

I am glad it did

guide update
i've added this to the flash section
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thx again

You're welcome

Elemental_Fire said:
Hi once again, everyone.
Edit: it would seem ISO 100 images are better quality but overexpose extremely close macro shots. ISO 800 is recommended for this procedure
Remember to consult hamdir's guide for other problems
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sorry but that is wrong.
turning the ISO up would surely cause it to be more likely to overexpose? unless its a bug in the firmware.
you got to remember the exposure triangle. aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. our aperture is fixed, the shutter speed automatic, but the iso user controllable. increase the ISO and the camera increases the shutter speed to maintain the correct exposure. lower iso, longer shutter speed.
ISO is used to increase the sensors sensitivity to light. higher ISO number means more sensitive but more noise, low number means less sensitive with less noise.
so in summary, ISO 100 should not cause the photo to overexpose unless the firmware is buggy. ISO 800 is more likely to cause overexposure.
ISO 800 should not be used for macro since it destroys fine detail very quickly, thereby giving a poor quality picture.
ISO should be left on auto unless lighting is poor (change to high ISO 800) or unless you believe the camera is using a shutter speed significantly faster than neccessary, and that picture quality is suffering due to ISO noise and/or noise reduction (change to low ISO 100/200)
good tip on the white balance though.

I agree, there seems to be a bug. The flash light is not compensated for. In real terms, what I am trying to say is...setting the ISO to 100 causes the camera to slow down by approximately 50% There operations are also slowed down. When the camera takes a macro picture at ISO 100, it does not compensate for the flash fast enough. As a result, the picture comes out overexposed. However, at ISO 800, there is no such decrease in operations. Thus, the flash can quickly be compensated for. You will understand if you try for yourself. Try very close macro shots. Set your lighting mode, and then set your ISO to first 100, and take a few pictures. Now try again with ISO 800. What happens?

Low light camera "fix"?

In putting together the camera locked/unlocked comparison, I found that the locked Sony did a good job of pulling out details in low light environments, while pictures under normal lighting conditions were (mostly) unaffected.
This morning, before heading out for work, I stumbled across an app in the Play Store called Night Camera and after a quick test, found that it actually does a fairly comparable job with the Sony "high and mighty", "I'm gonna delete your DRM keys if you try to steal it" algorithms.
Here are the comparison shots. First one taken with the Sony camera on a locked bl phone, and the second taken with Night Camera on a phone that has been BL unlocked.
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it does remove the noise quite well but look at the sharpness and detail of the bench and towel

Bäcker said:
it does remove the noise quite well but look at the sharpness and detail of the bench and towel
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We all know that sony software with their own algorithms is better than this "Night Camera", but the point, imho, is that your hardware will be the same with the same capabilities with or without drm.
It's only a software related problem.
I think I'm going to unlock my bootloader now, how often happens to you guys to take a photo completely in the dark? In other condition seems there are no big differences, but I'm not a photographer myself.
On the other hand I had an s4 before the z3c, always been on aosp rom, and I've never missed any of the samsung camera capabilities, even knowing they were degraded using google camera.

yes, that is a nice confirmation. Though I've always been convinced that this is just a software problem and sony does not actually degrade the hardware.

Keep in mind that the same photo using an iPhone 5s results in a nearly black picture!

kaiowas82 said:
We all know that sony software with their own algorithms is better than this "Night Camera", but the point, imho, is that your hardware will be the same with the same capabilities with or without drm.
It's only a software related problem.
I think I'm going to unlock my bootloader now, how often happens to you guys to take a photo completely in the dark? In other condition seems there are no big differences, but I'm not a photographer myself.
On the other hand I had an s4 before the z3c, always been on aosp rom, and I've never missed any of the samsung camera capabilities, even knowing they were degraded using google camera.
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+1
OP, what happens if you use the Sony app and manually set ISO to 12800?

Fruktsallad said:
+1
OP, what happens if you use the Sony app and manually set ISO to 12800?
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You can't manually set the ISO to 12800. Can only be done in Auto mode.

Crewville96 said:
You can't manually set the ISO to 12800. Can only be done in Auto mode.
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Oh, that's true. My bad. Some third party apps allow some degree of ISO control, though.

Crewville96 said:
You can't manually set the ISO to 12800. Can only be done in Auto mode.
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Actually, while there's no 12800 ISO setting, there is a SCENE for High ISO in manual mode.

dew.man said:
Actually, while there's no 12800 ISO setting, there is a SCENE for High ISO in manual mode.
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Yup, but I'm shooting with the High ISO mode, it's only taking pics at 3200 ISO.

nope, not even close.

If only Sony's camera software was as competent in other lighting situations as it was in low light conditions, they would have the best camera experience on the market, hands down.

1/24000 shutter speed Pro Mode?

Has anyone tried setting shutter speed in Pro Mode to 1/24000? Whenever i set to 1/24000 the screen become dark even my ISO was set to 800. When we need to use 1/24000 shutter speed?

This mode is to use under ultra bright luminosity !
The photo is taken very fast (0,00004 seconds of exposition time!!).
Because it's very fast, you need a lot of light (and by a lot I mean a big lot) or else it's complete dark. But if you have enough luminosity, not a single photo will be blurred by camera or objects movements.
For example : a car is driving at 200Km/h, you take a picture of the tires of the car : on the photo you will be able to read the small writtings on it, even if the car was moving super fast

1/24000 is STUPIDLY fast shutter speed... i honestly can't think of a single situation where 1/24000 would actually be useful, unless you were aiming to deliberately under expose everything else while taking a photo directly of the sun lol
to give you an idea, 1/8000 setting can actually capture a bullwhip cracking without any blur on the whip at all... and 1/24000 is a hell of a lot faster than that lol

here's one example (not the best one) of a photo taken in 1/24000 mode :
https://goo.gl/photos/9KhKrU623WpwkinU7
I couldn't have done this photo without high shutter speed, I was in a fast train... at 1/8000 it wouldn't be blurry aswell but I wouldn't have the strong contrast I have on this mode and the sun would "melt" in the sky....

very nice @Mr_PoPoP
underexposed shadows is definitely the only use i can think of for that speed, unless i could wire the phone through to studio lighting, then i might get some use out of it just to sate my curiosity lol

Thanks @methosivanhoe
That's what I like with S7 camera, a lot of ways to play with....
I've been shooting the sky at night with 10 seconds exposure, and it's very nice...

haven't tried that yet... might have to give it a go sometime
i'm at a burlesque shoot this weekend, so i'll take the phone along with me and see how it performs next to my 1DX lol, i know it won't stand up fully to it, but it'll be a fun comparison of the samsung 'raw' files vs a proper DSLR raw file for me to compare quality

Thank you all for the answer. Now i have better understanding on shutter speed.

shutter speed is basically how long you expose the shot for... 1/24000 is stupidly fast really
easier to explain it with a photo
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short shutter speeds, like 1/1000, 1/2000, 1/4000 and so on, freeze any movement... like falling water, running people, whips, and so on... the faster the shutter speed, the higher the fraction... so 1/24000 is the fastest i've ever seen, which is saying something as top line pro cameras like the Canon 1DX only go up to 1/8000th of a second shutter speed.
it's a tradeoff really, to use 1/24000 shutter speed, you need more light around to get the same exposure... so either taking photos with a hell of a lot of light, or boosting the ISO up so it exposes right

Mr_PoPoP said:
Thanks @methosivanhoe
That's what I like with S7 camera, a lot of ways to play with....
I've been shooting the sky at night with 10 seconds exposure, and it's very nice...
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I wish I could get the shots im looking for of the night sky with a 10 second exposure. I am trying to find a camera app that will give me a 30 second exposure.
What ISO setting are you using along with the 10 second exposure? Also, do you have any pictures you could post?
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

FerdinandT said:
Has anyone tried setting shutter speed in Pro Mode to 1/24000? Whenever i set to 1/24000 the screen become dark even my ISO was set to 800. When we need to use 1/24000 shutter speed?
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Here's a picture I clicked at 2 in the afternoon with the sun shining bright at 40°C and the shutter speed set to 1/24000. Note that it was an extremely bright sunny day when this was clicked. I am no pro photographer in this was actually the first time I used the shutter speed feature and got a pleasing result
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jrwingate6 said:
I wish I could get the shots im looking for of the night sky with a 10 second exposure. I am trying to find a camera app that will give me a 30 second exposure.
What ISO setting are you using along with the 10 second exposure? Also, do you have any pictures you could post?
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
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I think this might work I bought it a while ago but never used it haha https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ui.LapseItPro

methosivanhoe said:
very nice @Mr_PoPoP
underexposed shadows is definitely the only use i can think of for that speed, unless i could wire the phone through to studio lighting, then i might get some use out of it just to sate my curiosity lol
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have you ever tried taking a light stream photo with your s7?..

Anyone having trouble turning off "make up" mode on the front-facing camera?

Anyone having trouble turning off "make up" mode on the front-facing camera?
I know there's the slider at the bottom of the screen when taking a front-facing photo, but I have it at zero, and it's still adding QUITE A BIT of "smoothing" or "make up" to the photo. I'm not sure what the official term is. Is there a way to shut it off completely?
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unfortunately it's the noise reduction it seems for the ffc. can't turn it off completely so it's terrible in low light. got that oil painting look, as we used to call it with the g2.
Sent from my LG V20 US996

jayochs said:
unfortunately it's the noise reduction it seems for the ffc. can't turn it off completely so it's terrible in low light. got that oil painting look, as we used to call it with the g2.
Sent from my LG V20 US996
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Exactly. I remember the default setting being on 3 or something when I first got the phone, and I turned it to 0 and it was normal. But since I took a couple of updates this week, it seems I can't turn it off completely. Just awful.

Can't give you a full run down as to what is going on without seeing the exif information from the photo but there's a few things possibly going on here to keep in mind. (I'm assuming we are not looking at the full image but just a crop?)
First, I'm not sure how they're making the normal/wide thing work for the FFC. I'm guessing that they're just cropping the wide angle sensor data to give the normal view but that's not what the image properties say when viewing images on the phone. They say the same exact image size. I'm thinking this isn't true. I can't believe that they have a lens that actually zooms on a FFC module or there would be one on the back of every cellphone that these companies would be bragging about. So my guess is that the image properties is just writing the settings and not the actual image data. This means that if you are using the full setting for the sensor (5mp supposedly) you are only getting a full 5mp if you're shooting the wide angle. The regular view will be noticeably less.
Which brings me to point #2. Just like on the main camera around back, it isn't defaulting to using the full sensor. Instead, they opt to default to a 16x9 which is only 3.7mp. So if you're shooting the default AND normal mode, you're looking at less than 3.7mp. (Oh, and about that 5mp? It only shows up as 4.9 in the image properties.)
Then yes, there's the noise reduction. Which they seemed to have decided to err on the side of over applying than under applying. But here's the thing. To see this on a full resolution shot, I have to zoom in further than the intended viewing "distance". The problem is that images coming out of cellphones just aren't up to the task of being cropped aggressively. Heck, you really have to get to a much larger sensor before even thinking about that. Some 1" sensors can kind of do OK but I'd say you would want to get to at least a four thirds or dx sized sensor before considering cropping a lot. Even then, you're usually in the territory of swappable lenses which is preferred over cropping. Cropping is always last resort.
Edit to add, as for the question about shutting it off completely..... the beauty thing is most likely off when it hits zero and everything else you see is just noise reduction. The best way to minimize noise reduction is to be shooting at base ISO which means shooting with A LOT of light. Think daylight. Shooting in normal indoor lighting usually isn't enough as we tend to keep our lighting pretty soft, even when you don't think it is. (also for power savings and keep heat down) If you want to make sure the absolute minimum noise reduction is going on, shoot RAW which means shooting the main sensor on the other side. I don't think RAW is available on the FFC? RAW shots will show you everything coming off the sensor in all its "glory". This goes for any camera. Just be warned, for cellphone camera sensors, this will not be pretty.