Hi once again, everyone.
I've noticed that when using the flash on our Desire HDs, there is an extreme increase in warm colours. In other words, the picture will come out very yellow. This tip is only meant for indoors and macro shots, where lighting is needed, as outside pictures are balanced beautifully. To resolve the green-yellowish hue, hit the menu button while you're in the camera app. Go to White Balance, and touch Flourescent. Now take a picture, the picture will come out with more realistic colours. Do bear in mind that if pictures are not to your liking, you can use Photoshop, or for faster results, the built-in effects for our phones. Oh, and turn your ISO down to 100 when taking macro shots, or outdoors on a sunny day. Pictures are much more impressive and high quality.
Edit: it would seem ISO 100 images are better quality but overexpose extremely close macro shots. ISO 800 is recommended for this procedure
Remember to consult hamdir's guide for other problems
nice, ill try your flash tip tonight, if it works ill add it to the guide, if you don't mind
its seems your enjoying your camera as much as i do
autofix in the gallery effects improves tinted and badly contrasted pictures quit nicely
hamdir said:
nice, ill try your flash tip tonight, if it works ill add it to the guide, if you don't mind
its seems your enjoying your camera as much as i do
autofix in the gallery effects improves tinted and badly contrasted pictures quit nicely
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course I won't mind, we're both equally interested. You're my xda brother I guess xD anyways if I find other solutions i'll let you know, that way your guide can be a solution-for-all for everyone who not only has a Desire HD, but also any modern camera
awesome! it works well thanks
I am glad it did
guide update
i've added this to the flash section
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
thx again
You're welcome
Elemental_Fire said:
Hi once again, everyone.
Edit: it would seem ISO 100 images are better quality but overexpose extremely close macro shots. ISO 800 is recommended for this procedure
Remember to consult hamdir's guide for other problems
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry but that is wrong.
turning the ISO up would surely cause it to be more likely to overexpose? unless its a bug in the firmware.
you got to remember the exposure triangle. aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. our aperture is fixed, the shutter speed automatic, but the iso user controllable. increase the ISO and the camera increases the shutter speed to maintain the correct exposure. lower iso, longer shutter speed.
ISO is used to increase the sensors sensitivity to light. higher ISO number means more sensitive but more noise, low number means less sensitive with less noise.
so in summary, ISO 100 should not cause the photo to overexpose unless the firmware is buggy. ISO 800 is more likely to cause overexposure.
ISO 800 should not be used for macro since it destroys fine detail very quickly, thereby giving a poor quality picture.
ISO should be left on auto unless lighting is poor (change to high ISO 800) or unless you believe the camera is using a shutter speed significantly faster than neccessary, and that picture quality is suffering due to ISO noise and/or noise reduction (change to low ISO 100/200)
good tip on the white balance though.
I agree, there seems to be a bug. The flash light is not compensated for. In real terms, what I am trying to say is...setting the ISO to 100 causes the camera to slow down by approximately 50% There operations are also slowed down. When the camera takes a macro picture at ISO 100, it does not compensate for the flash fast enough. As a result, the picture comes out overexposed. However, at ISO 800, there is no such decrease in operations. Thus, the flash can quickly be compensated for. You will understand if you try for yourself. Try very close macro shots. Set your lighting mode, and then set your ISO to first 100, and take a few pictures. Now try again with ISO 800. What happens?
Related
Guys
How would you able to take good shots on X10?
Why is it blurred or like my pics is taken on an Iphone cam. Too much noise etc and not good. It's like I'm using a VGA or 0.3 cam.
Can you guys advice me a good settings or tips to make the cam better
TIA
I got the same issue, the pic taken by X10 is worse than X1 (8M VS 3M)
-------------------------------------
Sent via the XDA Tapatalk App
Post some examples.. My phone takes great pics.
Here are the sample shot.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
a few mine findings on x10 camera..
when is enough light there is no problem, auto settings is good.
when taking pic indors but with enougt light use sport setting, then pic will not be blured (same for video) coz exposure time is shorter, but if there is not enough light pic will be tooo dark with sport setting, then use defaul setting and try to keep phone steady as you can while focusing and while pressing key and second after that..
i got great results
Pics
Personally, I find the camera fantastic (until you zoom right, right in). It almost seems like they've used a 4mp camera and doubled the res as the pixels seem very blocky close up.
I'll upload when i can!
I never changed the settings or MP nor cam I enabled photo light too on some shots.
Example of a very good light condition is my laptop. you see its disgusting. the light is from bulb that is very good, and yet I get a crappy pics even with image stabilizer on
i've also noticed that image stabiliser make pic even worse, with that option i got less details, washed out colours...
Man those pictures look like NOTHING my X10 makes. You are either the worst photographer or there's something wrong here. Here's a few I made with my X10:
I've had no problems with the camera either.. i've really good quality photos with the X10. the only i have is the ease of access to the flash
Any tips? I'm bad at photography I know that that's why I'm asking for what settings what things do to etc.?
gr3yh0und said:
Any tips? I'm bad at photography I know that that's why I'm asking for what settings what things do to etc.?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
EV -7 when is too much light.
EV -3 in "normal" conditions
Always keep the sun behind you.
Also, depending what you shoot you can change the metering.
Well, my X10i also takes great pictures, and i usually use automatic settings. Here are some samples (I resized image size, just click the thumbnails):
Yeah those things bugs me
The metering too.
What should I set to this center average?
Well, my X10 also takes good pictures, one thing i noticed on your shots is that they're not focused and all blurry, did you wait until the focus was alright ? (when semi pressing the camera button, the focus in the middle of the screen should become green or red if it thinks the focus is not good enough)
Also, for close-up shots you should definitely enable macro mode.
here's an example i just took of a 20ct coin, with low lighting :
(unfortunately i can't give any higher res pic since i can't post links :/)
I had blurry pictures when I first got my x10.. but after setting the camera to "Scene Reognition" under Capturing Mode, it fixed all the problems. Hope that helps
i use touch fokus and now take better pictures
i have the same problem as gr3yh0und
and i dont know what to do ?!!
please someone tell me the ebst setting for camera
My pictures are too soft.
Way too soft.
I will have to give it a try without image stabilization to see if it makes a difference.
Here's a low-light shot from tonight... Went to the Airport park.
It's geotagged correctly on flickr as well.
I've been playing around with the camera today and got a few interesting results. So I've created this thread so that we can post and share our pictures and settings used to achieve them. I feel this would be good for people who perhaps are not familiar with our cameras settings and would like to get better shots.
I think our SGS2s camera can achieve some fantastic results
Please post your favourite shot and the settings you used below
Here is mine to start off.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Settings:
-White Balance; Sunlight.
-Metering; Matrix
-ISO auto or 100 (I think, forgot)
holy CRAP that's nice... i'll try to take some later =D
What resolution is that? the Max setting also?
My first macro shot with the SGSII, results were better than expected!
I believe everything was pretty much set to auto, except focus.
I should have some more lying around.
Nice shot
Whenever I point the phone to my dog, he thinks it's something like a gun so he runs away.
Can you tell me what's diffirent between metering : spot, matrix...?
Here in Spain it's ice-cream time
I always shoot in min ISO, so ISO 100. Both in macro mode.
Another macro shot (also ISO 100):
wow! amazing shots!!! very sharp and nice DOF
OMG wow.... Ok i will post some soon.
trungdaika said:
Can you tell me what's diffirent between metering : spot, matrix...?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is centre-weighted, Spot and matrix metering.
These options take readings from the image which adjusts exposure to the image being produced according to the light intensities.
Centre- weighed towards the centre and averaged throughout the rest of the scene
Spot- the camera will only measure a very small area of the centre spot, useful when there is a relatively small object within your scene which you need to be perfectly exposed.
Matrix - takes reading from split areas of the scene to calculate the best exposure and sets it according to an average.
...I think
It's all a bit complicated to be honest, well for me it is, I'm just a beginner.
computermilk said:
holy CRAP that's nice... i'll try to take some later =D
What resolution is that? the Max setting also?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Highest res and Image quality, 3264x2448 (8MP)
A few more of mine:
This more of a spur of the moment shot, I just wanted to test how it would look!
And finally one to test how good the flash would be in pitch black:
PyroCF said:
A few more of mine:
This more of a spur of the moment shot, I just wanted to test how it would look!
And finally one to test how good the flash would be in pitch black:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
give that angry bird toy to me or i will kill u. the results of the flash seems excellent. thanks a lot buddy
dave2 said:
Matrix - takes reading from split areas of the scene to calculate the best exposure and sets it according to an average.
...I think
It's all a bit complicated to be honest, well for me it is, I'm just a beginner.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
matrix mode does not take "split areas" (it might just be a language issue however), it splits the images into a matrix (a table if you prefer) and finds out the best exposure for each point in the matrix.
this usually fixes up expose problems and while i didnt test the matrix implementation of the sgs2 im surprised it doesn't default to it, in theory, it should make all those overexposed pics ppl take on smartphones look "mostly" fine
centered will not, and you always notice it when the lighting is not correct, with the burned out / over exposed edges
Lots of nice cars.
Centre weighted, ISO 40. Really happy with the camera.
Im interested in this thing: lock exposure after focusing. e.g. SE X10 and other sony ericssons are capable to lock exposure after phone camera focus on object. Then you can move phone to other position and fullpress to take picture...this is very good when dificult light conditions...THX for answer
bilboa1 said:
matrix mode does not take "split areas" (it might just be a language issue however), it splits the images into a matrix (a table if you prefer) and finds out the best exposure for each point in the matrix.
this usually fixes up expose problems and while i didnt test the matrix implementation of the sgs2 im surprised it doesn't default to it, in theory, it should make all those overexposed pics ppl take on smartphones look "mostly" fine
centered will not, and you always notice it when the lighting is not correct, with the burned out / over exposed edges
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for clearing that up
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA App
rob_h said:
Lots of nice cars.
Centre weighted, ISO 40. Really happy with the camera.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
iso 40?? how can you choose 40? iso 100 is the lowest on mine
Just in case others haven't noticed, there is a Camera firmware update available. Don't ask me where I found it but it was in the "Samsung Apps" app somewhere! I have no idea what it improves either (if anything).
Mine
I've been to Amsterdam lately ..
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA Premium App
Extremely amazing .. no need to buy a cam
Has anyone tried setting shutter speed in Pro Mode to 1/24000? Whenever i set to 1/24000 the screen become dark even my ISO was set to 800. When we need to use 1/24000 shutter speed?
This mode is to use under ultra bright luminosity !
The photo is taken very fast (0,00004 seconds of exposition time!!).
Because it's very fast, you need a lot of light (and by a lot I mean a big lot) or else it's complete dark. But if you have enough luminosity, not a single photo will be blurred by camera or objects movements.
For example : a car is driving at 200Km/h, you take a picture of the tires of the car : on the photo you will be able to read the small writtings on it, even if the car was moving super fast
1/24000 is STUPIDLY fast shutter speed... i honestly can't think of a single situation where 1/24000 would actually be useful, unless you were aiming to deliberately under expose everything else while taking a photo directly of the sun lol
to give you an idea, 1/8000 setting can actually capture a bullwhip cracking without any blur on the whip at all... and 1/24000 is a hell of a lot faster than that lol
here's one example (not the best one) of a photo taken in 1/24000 mode :
https://goo.gl/photos/9KhKrU623WpwkinU7
I couldn't have done this photo without high shutter speed, I was in a fast train... at 1/8000 it wouldn't be blurry aswell but I wouldn't have the strong contrast I have on this mode and the sun would "melt" in the sky....
very nice @Mr_PoPoP
underexposed shadows is definitely the only use i can think of for that speed, unless i could wire the phone through to studio lighting, then i might get some use out of it just to sate my curiosity lol
Thanks @methosivanhoe
That's what I like with S7 camera, a lot of ways to play with....
I've been shooting the sky at night with 10 seconds exposure, and it's very nice...
haven't tried that yet... might have to give it a go sometime
i'm at a burlesque shoot this weekend, so i'll take the phone along with me and see how it performs next to my 1DX lol, i know it won't stand up fully to it, but it'll be a fun comparison of the samsung 'raw' files vs a proper DSLR raw file for me to compare quality
Thank you all for the answer. Now i have better understanding on shutter speed.
shutter speed is basically how long you expose the shot for... 1/24000 is stupidly fast really
easier to explain it with a photo
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
short shutter speeds, like 1/1000, 1/2000, 1/4000 and so on, freeze any movement... like falling water, running people, whips, and so on... the faster the shutter speed, the higher the fraction... so 1/24000 is the fastest i've ever seen, which is saying something as top line pro cameras like the Canon 1DX only go up to 1/8000th of a second shutter speed.
it's a tradeoff really, to use 1/24000 shutter speed, you need more light around to get the same exposure... so either taking photos with a hell of a lot of light, or boosting the ISO up so it exposes right
Mr_PoPoP said:
Thanks @methosivanhoe
That's what I like with S7 camera, a lot of ways to play with....
I've been shooting the sky at night with 10 seconds exposure, and it's very nice...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wish I could get the shots im looking for of the night sky with a 10 second exposure. I am trying to find a camera app that will give me a 30 second exposure.
What ISO setting are you using along with the 10 second exposure? Also, do you have any pictures you could post?
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
FerdinandT said:
Has anyone tried setting shutter speed in Pro Mode to 1/24000? Whenever i set to 1/24000 the screen become dark even my ISO was set to 800. When we need to use 1/24000 shutter speed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's a picture I clicked at 2 in the afternoon with the sun shining bright at 40°C and the shutter speed set to 1/24000. Note that it was an extremely bright sunny day when this was clicked. I am no pro photographer in this was actually the first time I used the shutter speed feature and got a pleasing result
Sent from my SM-G935F using XDA-Developers mobile app
jrwingate6 said:
I wish I could get the shots im looking for of the night sky with a 10 second exposure. I am trying to find a camera app that will give me a 30 second exposure.
What ISO setting are you using along with the 10 second exposure? Also, do you have any pictures you could post?
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think this might work I bought it a while ago but never used it haha https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ui.LapseItPro
methosivanhoe said:
very nice @Mr_PoPoP
underexposed shadows is definitely the only use i can think of for that speed, unless i could wire the phone through to studio lighting, then i might get some use out of it just to sate my curiosity lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
have you ever tried taking a light stream photo with your s7?..
Hi guys!
Been loving my S8 so far, but I don't know if I am missing something or it's just the camera that works like this, but, photos taken outside come out bright and no problems.
But whenever I try to take photos of my 8 month ols son, 6 out of 10 times, I end up with a blurry shot. Am I missing some setting? Anyone else having the same problem?
I noticed a small milisecond kinda delay after taking the shot sometimes, doesn't matter if I have internal storage selected or SD card as save directory.
Here are some samples of the results I get.
Tried sports mode and while there's no delay when taking the shot, I get kinda the same results.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
He is clearly moving and in low light camera needs to have lens open longer to expose picture properly. To fix it you need to switch into PRO mode and then you have 3 options which do pretty much the same thing different ways:
1. add more or stronger lights into the room, 2. manually set ISO as high as you can tolerate noise (probably need to do few test shots) 3. set shutter speed at at least 1/100 sec or shorter depending on speed of movement, here you risk under exposure, high ISO noise. Also you can combine 1 and 2 or 3.
pete4k said:
He is clearly moving and in low light camera needs to have lens open longer to expose picture properly. To fix it you need to switch into PRO mode and then you have 3 options which do pretty much the same thing different ways:
1. add more or stronger lights into the room, 2. manually set ISO as high as you can tolerate noise (probably need to do few test shots) 3. set shutter speed at at least 1/100 sec or shorter depending on speed of movement, here you risk under exposure, high ISO noise. Also you can combine 1 and 2 or 3.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the advice. Used to get better results in the same conditions with the Nexus 6P that's why I found this strange.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Either your kid is growing up and moving faster or Nexus defaulted to higher ISO settings in similar conditions. At 1.7 the lens on S8 is most likely brighter than 6P, but the ISO setting is double edged sword: higher the ISO less blur in fast moving object, but more noise, which could ruin the picture. Another way to do it is to time it just when the movement is smallest and if your timing is off, then set the cam into burst mode, you'll have whole bunch of pictures to choose from. S8 has one of the best, most capable cameras on any phone.
pete4k said:
Either your kid is growing up and moving faster or Nexus defaulted to higher ISO settings in similar conditions. At 1.7 the lens on S8 is most likely brighter than 6P, but the ISO setting is double edged sword: higher the ISO less blur in fast moving object, but more noise, which could ruin the picture. Another way to do it is to time it just when the movement is smallest and if your timing is off, then set the cam into burst mode, you'll have whole bunch of pictures to choose from. S8 has one of the best, most capable cameras on any phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haha maybe he is quite fast now
I thought maybe it was a setting I was missing or a defective camera. Thanks again!!
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
I searched for many manual camera applications on google play store.
finally, I found one..
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
DEV JC said:
I searched for many manual camera applications on google play store.
finally, I found one..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Footej isnt it?
Sent from my Redmi Note 4 using Tapatalk
Low light , the camera frame drops very bad. Any fix ?
DEV JC said:
I searched for many manual camera applications on google play store.
finally, I found one..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Whats the name of dis app
abd styles said:
Whats the name of dis app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Footej Camera.
Kevin Saiza said:
Low light , the camera frame drops very bad. Any fix ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Under automatic settings, all smartphone cameras will get frame rate drops in low light; it is a hardware limitation. These pinhole cameras can't capture light as well as traditional cameras and needs more time to process the low light image. So to get a better low light image, the camera software will automatically increase the shutter speed so it can gather more light (i.e. it leaves the shutter open for longer) and increase the ISO. This causes your video to lag and images will have a lot of artifacts/grain.
However! If you manually control the shutter speed and the ISO like a DSLR, you can get smoother image and no lag. Here is a short guide on smoother video even in low light.
For video, you always want a constant shutter speed. The automatic setting in your camera will keep changing its shutter speed to compensate for light, which will cause lag. Start with a shutter speed of 1/30s, then try lower speeds 1/40, 1/50 etc. Going any lower than 1/50 is no good for low light as are cell phone cameras are just too tiny and your video will be super dark.
Once you have your shutter speed set, select your ISO accordingly. In the night you will probably need at least 1600 - 3200 ISO or higher for cellphones. The higher the ISO, the more grain in your image. So try to find a balance.
Please take a look at some sample Youtube video samples I did with manual settings in another thread. I used both OmniVision and Sony sensors for my Mido. (Sony is better of course!)
https://forum.xda-developers.com/redmi-note-4/accessories/sensor-camera-replacement-rn4x-t3667106/page9
DEV JC said:
I searched for many manual camera applications on google play store.
finally, I found one..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow thanks so much bro!
Very nice simple clean UI, easy to understand and got loads of essential settings for phone photography! Just excellent!
Welcome buddy
Also recommending to use the old version 2.0.6( not remember properly)
If you interested ask me... I will send you the link to download
DEV JC said:
Welcome buddy
Also recommending to use the old version 2.0.6( not remember properly)
If you interested ask me... I will send you the link to download
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why recommend version 2.0.6?
yohyah said:
Under automatic settings, all smartphone cameras will get frame rate drops in low light; it is a hardware limitation. These pinhole cameras can't capture light as well as traditional cameras and needs more time to process the low light image. So to get a better low light image, the camera software will automatically increase the shutter speed so it can gather more light (i.e. it leaves the shutter open for longer) and increase the ISO. This causes your video to lag and images will have a lot of artifacts/grain.
However! If you manually control the shutter speed and the ISO like a DSLR, you can get smoother image and no lag. Here is a short guide on smoother video even in low light.
For video, you always want a constant shutter speed. The automatic setting in your camera will keep changing its shutter speed to compensate for light, which will cause lag. Start with a shutter speed of 1/30s, then try lower speeds 1/40, 1/50 etc. Going any lower than 1/50 is no good for low light as are cell phone cameras are just too tiny and your video will be super dark.
Once you have your shutter speed set, select your ISO accordingly. In the night you will probably need at least 1600 - 3200 ISO or higher for cellphones. The higher the ISO, the more grain in your image. So try to find a balance.
Please take a look at some sample Youtube video samples I did with manual settings in another thread. I used both OmniVision and Sony sensors for my Mido. (Sony is better of course!)
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=75156188&postcount=82
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your detailed explanation. Which camera did you use for shutter speed controls for mido ?
Kevin Saiza said:
Thanks for your detailed explanation. Which camera did you use for shutter speed controls for mido ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used OpenCamera (you can download from Google Play). You will need to enable the Camera2API for your device before you can access the extra features/settings.
Once you are in the app, go to the settings check off "Use Camera2API". Then when taking pictures or recording video, press the +/- icon and you will be able to manually adjust the shutter speed and ISO by pressing M (for manual)