I'm a Chinese user using a SM-G935S(Exynos8890),and here is a problem that puzzle me since a month ago.
About a month ago I broke my screen by accident ,and then I asked samsung's authorized agent in China if they can replace my screen.They told me that the screen of G9350(China snapdragon) and G935S is compatible,so I just let them repair it,cost 1500CNY.
After that my earphone port just won't work,I have tried many ROMs,including samsung's stock firmware,SuperStock ROM,RR5.7.8,lineageOS14.1 and Mokee 71.1, but no matter how hard I try the 3.5mm port just won't work.I went back and asked samsung if it's a hardware issue,but they just told me they have no idea about that.They just told me that maybe a chip on the replaced screen caused the problem,but they are not sure.
So I just here to ask,if anyone know if this tiny chip really the reason of why my earphone port doesn't work?
(Picture shows the broken screen that replaced from my phone,and the headphone jack is now in my phone but it still refuse to work.)
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Better question would be where is your 3.5mm headphone jack?
The empty hole that I circled, that's where it should be.
---------- Post added at 07:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:04 PM ----------
Tapatalk for Android - Works awesome on my Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge
joe.skelly said:
Better question would be where is your 3.5mm headphone jack?
The empty hole that I circled, that's where it should be.

---------- Post added at 07:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:04 PM ----------
---------- Post added at 07:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:04 PM ----------

Tapatalk for Android - Works awesome on my Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
err...this is the broken screen that replaced from my phone,so the headphone jack is in my phone now.
joe.skelly said:
Better question would be where is your 3.5mm headphone jack?
The empty hole that I circled, that's where it should be.

---------- Post added at 07:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:04 PM ----------
---------- Post added at 07:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:04 PM ----------

Tapatalk for Android - Works awesome on my Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But it just refuse to work...even after I try to get a new jack.
Ok, I had to do some digging around the web, and technical stuff (which is something I enjoy).
What I found is that, yes the LCD / Digitizer Assembly is universal between the Snapdragon and Exynos chipset.
With the LCD replacement, the ribbon cable for the screen is farther up the phone, as seen on the picture above.
The same universal compatibility is also true with Audio Jack (headphones),
And the Loudspeaker Assembly
But, that's it. The chip you have marked on your original post should be under the audio jack ribbon accessory.
Aside from the audio jack, the rest of that board is charging. It's the Dock Port Flex Cable Assembly.
Those are different.
Snapdragon (935a)
Exynos (935f)
Now, with that being said, depending on where they got the screen from, it may have had the Flex Cable already attached.
If that new screen had the cable, and you already know that the replacement screen came from a Snapdragon phone, then that might be the problem.
Unfortunately, the only way to know for sure is to open your phone back up, and after removing the Loudspeaker Assembly, check the ribbon cable for this:
If you look back up and look closely at the Dock Port Flex Cable Assembly, the chip you have circled is different on the Snapdragon version, the chip is in a different location, and the Audio Jack port connector visual looks different.
Im trying to give you as much information as possible, because the repair shop did something to your phone, and it drives me nuts when they take advantage of customers.
The simple fact that the Dock Port Flex assembly is still attached to your broken screen, so that tells you right there that they used a different assembly with the replacement.
And they put in a Snapdragon screen, then I'd say with about 99.9% certainty that they just used the the assembly already attached to the screen.
joe.skelly said:
Ok, I had to do some digging around the web, and technical stuff (which is something I enjoy).
What I found is that, yes the LCD / Digitizer Assembly is universal between the Snapdragon and Exynos chipset.

With the LCD replacement, the ribbon cable for the screen is farther up the phone, as seen on the picture above.
The same universal compatibility is also true with Audio Jack (headphones),

And the Loudspeaker Assembly

But, that's it. The chip you have marked on your original post should be under the audio jack ribbon accessory.
Aside from the audio jack, the rest of that board is charging. It's the Dock Port Flex Cable Assembly.
Those are different.
Snapdragon (935a)

Exynos (935f)

Now, with that being said, depending on where they got the screen from, it may have had the Flex Cable already attached.
If that new screen had the cable, and you already know that the replacement screen came from a Snapdragon phone, then that might be the problem.
Unfortunately, the only way to know for sure is to open your phone back up, and after removing the Loudspeaker Assembly, check the ribbon cable for this:
With the LCD replacement, the ribbon cable for the screen is farther up the phone, as seen on the picture above.
The same universal compatibility is also true with Audio Jack (headphones),

And the Loudspeaker Assembly

But, that's it. The chip you have marked on your original post should be under the audio jack ribbon accessory.
Aside from the audio jack, the rest of that board is charging. It's the Dock Port Flex Cable Assembly.
Those are different.
Snapdragon (935a)

Exynos (935f)

Now, with that being said, depending on where they got the screen from, it may have had the Flex Cable already attached.
If that new screen had the cable, and you already know that the replacement screen came from a Snapdragon phone, then that might be the problem.
Unfortunately, the only way to know for sure is to open your phone back up, and after removing the Loudspeaker Assembly, check the ribbon cable for this:

If you look back up and look closely at the Dock Port Flex Cable Assembly, the chip you have circled is different on the Snapdragon version, the chip is in a different location, and the Audio Jack port connector visual looks different.
Im trying to give you as much information as possible, because the repair shop did something to your phone, and it drives me nuts when they take advantage of customers.
The simple fact that the Dock Port Flex assembly is still attached to your broken screen, so that tells you right there that they used a different assembly with the replacement.
And they put in a Snapdragon screen, then I'd say with about 99.9% certainty that they just used the the assembly already attached to the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much!And I'll go back to that repair shop this weekend and ask for an answer.See if I can get this thing finally work,or get a resonable compensation.
Related
I am slightly worried about the mini-USB connector on my QTEK 9100 as it seems to have a little bit of 'play' in it - i.e. it can be moved slightly and so seems loose.
I have read various threads about the connectors breaking and either being pushed into the device or simply falling out. Some people seem to have had some success getting them replaced or repaired under warranty, others haven't. Since I bought mine off eBay last year I think I am pretty much out of luck regarding warranty.
Anyway if I take the stylus or something similar and push the metal edge of the mini-USB connector it moves slightly within the over-sized hole in the plastic case (there is a very slight gap all around the metal outer part of the mini-USB connector and the hole in the plastic case). I am not sure whether it has always done this or it is becoming loose. Can someone else check whether their mini-USB connector moves slightly in the manner I describe or if theirs is solid? It is only a very slight movement but really that is all it has the ability to move since the gap between the metal and the plastic is very small.
The connection seems OK to my PC and I have upgraded the ROM a few times recently but this slight movement is getting me a bit concerned that it is going to break shortly and since this is the only way to charge it I will be left a bit stuck
If it is on it's way out what are my options and what are the likely costs? I don't think I have any warranty case and I am in the UK.
Thanks
Andy
loose mini-USB connector
My MDA also had a loose mini USB connector over time it continued to become loose until it finially brokw. I was forunate that T-Mobile did replace it under warranty.
I did find a company ont he internet that charges $60 to replace the MDA with a new mini USB Connector. It does require the device to be shipped to them.
Here is ther website address:
http://www.pocketpctechs.com/
Good Luck
I have applied a rather crude fix by inserting some small pieces of card (I cut up a business card) around the slight gap between the outer metal part of the mini-USB connector and the surrounding plastic. This seems to have stopped the connector moving, although I still think the damage may have been done
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It's charging and syncing without any issues though so I will see how it goes.
Andy
Loose Stylus & Mini USB inspection.....
My Wizard has recently developed the loose stylus issue outlined here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=247497&highlight=loose+stylus
I have followed the instructions to 'strengthen' the small plastic retention tab using a bit of silicone which is currently drying.....
Whilst I had the back off I decided to take a look at the Mini USB connector and see if there was any damage. Well it looks like three of the four solder pads at either corner of the connector have become 'unstuck' from the circuit board (see attached image). I have some experience of soldering but I am a little worried that I may damage something else with the heat if I attempt to touch each of the pads to re-secure it. The five data pins at the rear all seem OK, it is just these ground/earth ones.
Has anyone else performed this repair successfully?
Andy (slightly worried )
Since the replies were so encouraging I went ahead and re-soldered the pads and it's still working......
The silicone didn't work so I removed it and inserted a small piece of plastic and re-siliconed it in place. It's better than it was originally now
I think I'll take the back off again in a few weeks and see how the mini USB connector is. Any other advice as to keeping the USB connector intact?
Andy
Hi,
I have a post about red/orange light in this forum, do you reckon that the broken usb connector could be whats causing my problem? Do you have a guide to dismantling the MINI?
Thanks
Service Manual on FTP
mrhaddock said:
Hi,
I have a post about red/orange light in this forum, do you reckon that the broken usb connector could be whats causing my problem? Do you have a guide to dismantling the MINI?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check the link I posted in the 4th post. There is a service manual on the FTP.
The trickiest bit it unlocking the hooks on the back panel - it feels like you are going to snap the thing
ftp://ftp.xda-developers.com/Wizard/Docs_Tutorials/
HTH
Andy
ADB100 said:
Whilst I had the back off I decided to take a look at the Mini USB connector and see if there was any damage. Well it looks like three of the four solder pads at either corner of the connector have become 'unstuck' from the circuit board (see attached image). I have some experience of soldering but I am a little worried that I may damage something else with the heat if I attempt to touch each of the pads to re-secure it. The five data pins at the rear all seem OK, it is just these ground/earth ones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have had a MP3 player which has the same problem with the output jack (for the ear phone). The solder became loose and I get irritating silences during the music play back. I solve the problem by applying superglue on top of it because the circuits there are just way too small for my (or any other human) soldering skill.
Anyway, for this case, it seems that the ground is large enough to withstand minor heat from the solder. And, chances are, since it ground, in most cases thick/wide enough most of the way (as to absorb any 'distrubances') before it reaches any IC which is what you need to be really careful of.
Hi you guys.
I opened my phone to repair the LCD screen and now the volume rocker isn't working.
I attached images of my phone, if you need other images I can take them.
I just don't know what to check... Should I just try to put a new volume ribbon? Would that be enough?
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Any help will be most appreciated.
Thank you.
can you feel the rocker button click ?
are the small pop caps still located on the volume switch points ! as they do fall off easily & are incredibly small.
volume is part of main flex board so lets hope it not damaged.
Mister B said:
are the small pop caps still located on the volume switch points ! as they do fall off easily & are incredibly small.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I can feel the rocker click (I think so), but I'm not sure what you mean by the pop caps. What are these? Should I add am image of my rocker (the plastic button)?
the little plastic domes that sit on the volume board with just a spot of tack glue holding them in place.
If all present & button feels correct & both up/down dead then possible you damaged flex ...
what can we do if were missing pop caps, can i somehow trigger that function with a screwdriver for example, how exactly do "pop caps work ?"
Just a small conductive graphite pad in center that bridges 2 contacts on the button board when cap pressed down.
Mister B said:
are the small pop caps still located on the volume switch points !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the picture you can see the little black dot, so they are still located.
Mister B said:
as they do fall off easily & are incredibly small.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:good: Oh yes, you are so right.
@ Tsury,
be sure that the main flex cable is connected to the main board.
tigger-gg said:
On the picture you can see the little black dot, so they are still located.:good: Oh yes, you are so right.
@ Tsury,
be sure that the main flex cable is connected to the main board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How do I check it? What other capability is the flex cable providing? The device is working, I can eliminate it in some other way probably.
You can use this guide to direct me: http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-HTC-HD2-PB81120-Logic-Board/5919/1
Thanks a lot!
Tsury said:
How do I check it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the main flex cable is not connected to the main board, loudspeaker sound and vibration do not work.
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-HTC-HD2-PB81120-Logic-Board/5919/8
---------- Post added at 08:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 PM ----------
Also be sure that the flex cable of volume rocker is not broken.
---------- Post added at 08:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:35 PM ----------
Outlaw78a said:
what can we do if were missing pop caps,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could buy new ones, e.g.:
http://www.chinagadgetland.com/htc-desire-hd2-volume-button-contact-chiporiginal-p-10004635.html
or
http://www.enjoyapples.com/volume-button-contact-chip-for-htc-desire-hd2_p1909.html
tigger-gg said:
If the main flex cable is not connected to the main board, loudspeaker sound and vibration do not work.
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-HTC-HD2-PB81120-Logic-Board/5919/8
---------- Post added at 08:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 PM ----------
Also be sure that the flex cable of volume rocker is not broken.
---------- Post added at 08:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:35 PM ----------
You could buy new ones, e.g.:
http://www.chinagadgetland.com/htc-desire-hd2-volume-button-contact-chiporiginal-p-10004635.html
or
http://www.enjoyapples.com/volume-button-contact-chip-for-htc-desire-hd2_p1909.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess I should buy a new flex first?
Open your HD2 again and connect the main flex cable on the main board. And dont forgett to unlock the tastatur flex cabel. I have forgotten it twice :crying: it tears very easily.
Have you edit your last post? First you have written that the sound and vibration also do not work.
tigger-gg said:
Open your HD2 again and connect the main flex cable on the main board. And dont forgett to unlock the tastatur flex cabel. I have forgotten it twice :crying: it tears very easily.
Have you edit your last post? First you have written that the sound and vibration also do not work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I edited it and forgot to re-add it!
My vibration and speaker indeed doesn't work.
tigger-gg said:
Open your HD2 again and connect the main flex cable on the main board. And dont forgett to unlock the tastatur flex cabel. I have forgotten it twice :crying: it tears very easily.
Have you edit your last post? First you have written that the sound and vibration also do not work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is the minimum I need to tear down in order to check it?
There are too many steps in this guide (remove vibrator/gps/bluetooth/camera).
You have to do all steps (1-22) of this giude http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-HTC-HD2-PB81120-Logic-Board/5919/1
tigger-gg said:
You have to do all steps (1-22) of this giude http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-HTC-HD2-PB81120-Logic-Board/5919/1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do I do with the big battery sticker in step 17? Just throw it away?
No, dont throw it away. You have to put it back when you assemble your device.
Maybe this will help you too:
http://pocketnow.com/hardware-1/off...-training-videos-leaked?wpmp_switcher=desktop
So I'm making a flexible, detachable monitor out of my atrix lapdock, a cheap flexible lamp, some cheap aluminium and a micro-hdmi -> hdmi converter!!!
Lamp
Here http://www.amazon.com/Globe-Electri...1392864024&sr=1-7&keywords=flexible+desk+lamp
or Here http://www.amazon.com/Boston-Harbor-TL-TB-170-BK3L-Flexible-Black/dp/B002SDNSF6
NOTE: Not the same one I used, as I just used what I had lying around, it needs to have a large diameter neck to fit the cords inside.
So far I have the initial mount tapped and screwed onto the head of the lamp, and the Power cord whittled down to fit through it.
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Lapdock
Only necessary parts are the motherboard and the Hall Sensor plugged into it to make the screen work, seen here
Aluminium
Making a case from aluminum to cover/protect internals, this will be screwed into the back of the lapdock's screen and attached/detached
from the lamp mount via magnets.
HDMI Converter
Here is the one I'm ordering.
http://www.amazon.com/Importer520-P...-1-catcorr&keywords=female+micro+hdmi+to+hdmi
I will make a tut when this is complete.
*** For some reason my screen has an extreme blue/green tint? Not sure if this is from handling internals so much and causing damage or what but it worked fine on my other Atrix? If anyone has an extra broken lapdock they'd like to donate so I can fix this? Not needed but very welcome Now that the phone is so old,
I hope more cool projects like this come up.
***ALSO I want to squeeze an hdmi through the lamp neck however connector is much too large. Anyone know if you can cut an HDMI and successfully solder it back on? (Something like 19 wires?)
Anybody interested in doing this? I've ordered my cable and will post the assembled pics when it arrives!
jeffreygtab said:
For some reason my screen has an extreme blue/green tint?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's because you've lost the TMDS data 2 signal (Red) on pins 1, 2, 3.
A gooseneck lamp is clever.
I used a desk mic stand for my Nook. The base is a lot heavier.
See: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=26880178#post26880178
This is one mic stand: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PAW6EG/
Renate NST said:
That's because you've lost the TMDS data 2 signal (Red) on pins 1, 2, 3.
A gooseneck lamp is clever.
I used a desk mic stand for my Nook. The base is a lot heavier.
See: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=26880178#post26880178
This is one mic stand: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PAW6EG/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you referring to the 30pin or the one that the lcd plugs into? I have no idea what the schematics are for the lapdock so that'd help. If it's fixable I'll try giving it a soldering when I go to robotics! I'm just learning though so hopefully I don't botch it.
Well, you've lost the red somewhere.
I don't have an exact idea of what you are doing so I can't say.
Your "Lapdock" is what model? Did I miss that?
You've given lots of links, but none for the "Lapdock".
Presuming that it takes an HDMI signal and converts it to LVDS for the LCD display you've lost it somewhere.
If there is some builtin on-screen display generated internally check that for a true white image ("No signal connected" warning or whatever).
That will tell you if you lost it in the HDMI or the LVDS section.
Renate NST said:
Well, you've lost the red somewhere.
I don't have an exact idea of what you are doing so I can't say.
Your "Lapdock" is what model? Did I miss that?
You've given lots of links, but none for the "Lapdock".
Presuming that it takes an HDMI signal and converts it to LVDS for the LCD display you've lost it somewhere.
If there is some builtin on-screen display generated internally check that for a true white image ("No signal connected" warning or whatever).
That will tell you if you lost it in the HDMI or the LVDS section.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its the Motorola atrix lapdock. The "No signal" popped up recently and it didn't display accurate whites at all...
Oh, well then in your "physical reformation" of the Lapdock you've lost connectivity between the board and the LCD.
Carefully check and reseat the ribbon connectors.
Check to make sure that you didn't separate and fold back the delicate foil on the flat cables.
Renate NST said:
Oh, well then in your "physical reformation" of the Lapdock you've lost connectivity between the board and the LCD.
Carefully check and reseat the ribbon connectors.
Check to make sure that you didn't separate and fold back the delicate foil on the flat cables.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sounds like something I easily could have done because I was fiddling with the connectors a ton during the initial tear down. I'll post pics tomorrow morning.
EDIT: Pics, I don't see why it's not working...
Yeah The LVDS cable is way to small to see if it's damaged... I guess I'll just have to deal with it.
My first post on xda-devs after a long time away.
So as you might have guessed by the title, I own the Nvidia Shield K1. Bought it used a few weeks back and wanted the stylus. Since it's apparently made from Unobtainium, that took a few weeks.
After receiving it and opening my Shield K1 (can be done using a fingernail, I was pleasantly suprised) I found the original Stylus slot still in there. It seems Nvidia only changed the exterior Mold and closed the Stylus Slot that way.
I'll attach a few pictures that shows the process and final look. The pen fits snugly inside and doesn't fall out (even if I run carrying the tablet in my hand).
The only thing is: The tablet doesn't detect the removal of the stylus. That is somewhat expected but comparing pictures from iFixit with my tablet, I can't find the sensor that's supposed to be in the original Shield Tablet. If someone owns the original Pyro and has opened / wants to open it, could you please send me detailed pictures of the stylus slot? If you know where the sensor is, even better. Perfect would be if you could send me logs of the events that are triggered on stylus removal (should be obtainable via adb / adb shell / logcat, no root needed).
Enough talk, time for pictures.
Open the tablet starting from the MicroSD slot (a credit card, fingernail or something like that works great)
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File the metal under the cable down so you have enough slack and glue it down. In the original Shield it's done with tape, I used some crazy glue.
Remove some material from the back cover. I used some small files to do all this. Doesn't take much effort since it's all plastic.
Final Result of my mod. Works great. The Stylus is held firmly in there and I can remove it easily
Thanks in advance for any feedback on this
Ah, And after reviewing other pictures I think I found the stylus sensor on this picture https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/mcKFJDJGtYNlZ5gx.huge
Right beside the opening at the top next to the speaker. Don't have any Idea how it's connected. If someone has pictures of that (what ribbon cable is it using, where on the mainboard does it connect to).
I'm set on getting this feature modded into my K1
Nice, that's clean!
Thanks for the pics and guide. My new nvidia shield k1 should be arriving next week, and this will probably be one of the first things I do.
I found a cover from an original Shield on eBay, so I won't have to modify the cover. I just need to modify the housing for the stylus to fit. Did you just use files for the housing?
operative1 said:
Ah, And after reviewing other pictures I think I found the stylus sensor on this picture https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/mcKFJDJGtYNlZ5gx.huge
Right beside the opening at the top next to the speaker. Don't have any Idea how it's connected. If someone has pictures of that (what ribbon cable is it using, where on the mainboard does it connect to).
I'm set on getting this feature modded into my K1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly, Nvidia left the connector and support circuitry off for the stylus sensor. If you are very patient, and proficient with a soldering iron you could swap the missing parts over from a dead original shield (I hate soldering 0402 components, and there are close to a dozen of them missing). The sensor connector and support circuitry is on the display side of the board. Looking at the picture you had attched, you see a black ribbon with writing on it in the lower left corner - that is the stylus detect harness.
Also, if you carefully remove the rubber/foam block in the corner near the stylus slot, you can very carefully pull the speaker ribbon off the plastic and re stick it down so that you can use Kaptan or scotch tape to hold down the speaker cable in the stylus slot without having to file underneath it.
neosenshi said:
Sadly, Nvidia left the connector and support circuitry off for the stylus sensor. If you are very patient, and proficient with a soldering iron you could swap the missing parts over from a dead original shield (I hate soldering 0402 components, and there are close to a dozen of them missing). The sensor connector and support circuitry is on the display side of the board. Looking at the picture you had attched, you see a black ribbon with writing on it in the lower left corner - that is the stylus detect harness..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am now the proud owner of a fully bricked original shield tablet thanks to ebay So yes, I know about the missing components. For the time being I transferred the mainboard and battery from my K1 to the original shield housing (for the stylus slot). Also missing on the k1 is the charge status LED right next to the USB port. The solderpads are there.
I don't know how you came up with "close to a dozen" but as far as I can tell by comparing both boards, there is the connector itself and 2 passives (probably resistors) missing. the other pads are unpopulated on the original shield and only used in case you have the LTE version (for simcard slot and mini-pci-e connector).
caseyatbt said:
I found a cover from an original Shield on eBay, so I won't have to modify the cover. I just need to modify the housing for the stylus to fit. Did you just use files for the housing?
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yes, I did file the housing using some needle files.
As neosenshi said, you don't need to file the metal inside the housing, just tape it down with kapton tape or similar.
operative1 said:
I am now the proud owner of a fully bricked original shield tablet thanks to ebay So yes, I know about the missing components. For the time being I transferred the mainboard and battery from my K1 to the original shield housing (for the stylus slot). Also missing on the k1 is the charge status LED right next to the USB port. The solderpads are there.
I don't know how you came up with "close to a dozen" but as far as I can tell by comparing both boards, there is the connector itself and 2 passives (probably resistors) missing. the other pads are unpopulated on the original shield and only used in case you have the LTE version (for simcard slot and mini-pci-e connector).
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I'm also the proud owner of a dead unit from ebay. I bought my working unit from Swappa and simply filed the case. And you're right, I'm thinking of one of the LTE connectors. I didn't pull the board for my new unit completely out of the housing, just verified that the connector wasn't there, and saw empty solder pads for addition components.
Hey all, I recently bought a P580 when I was out in the States with work (I'm back in the UK now). Whilst I was out there it was working fine and when I came back it was working fine when I originally tried it out - I didn't want to use it much as it was supposed to be a gift but wanted to make sure it was all set up and stuff. Second time I tried it, it won't power on. I've tried multiple USB cables, multiple wall plugs and tried charging it on my PC. Nothing seems to get it to power on.
Everytime I connect and disconnect it to my PC I get the audible tone that says a device was connected but that's it. Samsung's Smart switch doesn't recognise it either. Talking to their support, I've tried holding Power + Volume down + home button but that doesn't seem to do anything other than disconnect it from the PC and holding the Power button for more than a minute doesn't seem to do anything either.
I hadn't rooted the device, in fact I'd barely done anything other than install a couple of apps like Facebook, Snapchat and Youtube. Does anyone know what's going on with the device and is there anything I can do? I'd definitely prefer not to send it back to Samsung as they won't accept it in the UK support so I'd have to send it back to the US support.
Anyways, if anyone has any advice it would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you.
It's not a power but display issue. If you can hear the sound in the background or press volume up and down and you can hear the sound, it mostly has the loose LCD cable.
Search Youtube how to open your tablet, the tool you may need is a guitar pick.
Disconnect the battery first. You only need to disconnect and reconnect the LCD cable. The locking tab is at the top of the connector, lift it gently up 90 degree and be careful, otherwise you might break it. All connectors are unlocked by lifting up from the top 90 degree and they're very easy broken if you're not careful.
Here the LCD cable ( black ) is just slightly below the line on mainboard, you will have a black screen
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This one, the LCD cable is fully seated.
This connector is weakly hold the cable, you can pull the cable out while is in locking position. So you need put tapes over the connector and cable to hold it firmly, another one at the center of the battery to prevent if from moving. Battery should be back, otherwise you'll see nothing. Test by plugging your charger and press the HOME button, you should see the battery icon briefly if everything you're done correctly.
Beut said:
It's not a power but display issue. If you can hear the sound in the background or press volume up and down and you can hear the sound, it mostly has the loose LCD cable.
Search Youtube how to open your tablet, the tool you may need is a guitar pick.
Disconnect the battery first. You only need to disconnect and reconnect the LCD cable. The locking tab is at the top of the connector, lift it gently up 90 degree and be careful, otherwise you might break it. All connectors are unlocked by lifting up from the top 90 degree and they're very easy broken if you're not careful.
Here the LCD cable ( black ) is just slightly below the line on mainboard, you will have a black screen
This one, the LCD cable is fully seated.
This connector is weakly hold the cable, you can pull the cable out while is in locking position. So you need put tapes over the connector and cable to hold it firmly, another one at the center of the battery to prevent if from moving. Battery should be back, otherwise you'll see nothing. Test by plugging your charger and press the HOME button, you should see the battery icon briefly if everything you're done correctly.
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Hey, thank you for the reply! I opened up my Tab and it was loose. Unfortunately being a complete beginner I think I f****d it up and ruined the cable - imgur dot com/a/kvP8Z ( I cant post links)
Am I going to have to replace that now as it still doesn't seem to be working.. :/
Other than that I can't see anything else that might be wrong with it whilst it's opened up??
Again, thanks for your help, it's MASSIVELY appreciated!
Sn0wtek said:
Hey, thank you for the reply! I opened up my Tab and it was loose. Unfortunately being a complete beginner I think I f****d it up and ruined the cable - imgur dot com/a/kvP8Z ( I cant post links)
Am I going to have to replace that now as it still doesn't seem to be working.. :/
Other than that I can't see anything else that might be wrong with it whilst it's opened up??
Again, thanks for your help, it's MASSIVELY appreciated!
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Speaking from experience, you are in a tight spot now... if you did what I did. I had a Tab S and I opened it up to replace the charging port. Different pieces, but same steps as listed above. I broke the locking tab that holds the cable down. My only recourse was to replace the motherboard. Long story short, it was easier (and not much more expensive) to buy a new tablet. I know this isn't what you want to hear. Sorry about your luck.
HOWEVER, my problem was with supply, my S was old and I couldn't find a new motherboard and the website I found was "out of stock" of used ones priced high. Since you have a fairly new device, you might be able to find a replacement much easier.
Bdozier said:
Speaking from experience, you are in a tight spot now... if you did what I did. I had a Tab S and I opened it up to replace the charging port. Different pieces, but same steps as listed above. I broke the locking tab that holds the cable down. My only recourse was to replace the motherboard. Long story short, it was easier (and not much more expensive) to buy a new tablet. I know this isn't what you want to hear. Sorry about your luck.
HOWEVER, my problem was with supply, my S was old and I couldn't find a new motherboard and the website I found was "out of stock" of used ones priced high. Since you have a fairly new device, you might be able to find a replacement much easier.
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I don't think that the locking mechanism is effected, but I scuffed the black LCD cable thing and it's now showing some of the bronze beneath it.. I thought that maybe that was causing it to not just work now that the cable's in the correct position? If it's the case that I've completely ruined the device and that I can't do anything with it, I don't know if I can justify getting a second one in such a short space of time. :/
Sn0wtek said:
I don't think that the locking mechanism is effected, but I scuffed the black LCD cable thing and it's now showing some of the bronze beneath it.. I thought that maybe that was causing it to not just work now that the cable's in the correct position? If it's the case that I've completely ruined the device and that I can't do anything with it, I don't know if I can justify getting a second one in such a short space of time. :/
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That's good. You might be able to find a replacement cable or even just put a small piece of electrical tape over the scuffed segment... Depending on how deep the scuff is. There are a lot smarter people on this board that may be able to advise you better.
Just searched "galaxy tab a 10.1 lcd cable" and they are pretty inexpensive. Cheaper than a new tablet! About $2 USD.
Sn0wtek said:
I don't think that the locking mechanism is effected, but I scuffed the black LCD cable thing and it's now showing some of the bronze beneath it.. I thought that maybe that was causing it to not just work now that the cable's in the correct position? If it's the case that I've completely ruined the device and that I can't do anything with it, I don't know if I can justify getting a second one in such a short space of time. :/
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Try to tape the LCD cable down to the mainboard, I don't know how bad you damaged it. This LCD cable is not easy to take out as the section connected to LCD is under the frame.
In order to take it out, you have to cut the frame. It's easier than heating up the whole assembly to remove the touchscreen and LCD from the frame. Newbie will most likely damage them in this process.
Beut said:
Try to tape the LCD cable down to the mainboard, I don't know how bad you damaged it. This LCD cable is not easy to take out as the section connected to LCD is under the frame.
In order to take it out, you have to cut the frame. It's easier than heating up the whole assembly to remove the touchscreen and LCD from the frame. Newbie will most likely damage them in this process.
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See Sn0wtek... A much smarter person than me!
This is the proper way to secure LCD cable both SM-T580 and SM-P580, without tape the cable will loose again.
This is another bad design from Samsung, the motherboard has no screw to hold it at the bottom. It can wobble easily, that's reason you need tapes to hold the LCD cable to mainboard , prevent it from moving out of the connector.