Hi you guys.
I opened my phone to repair the LCD screen and now the volume rocker isn't working.
I attached images of my phone, if you need other images I can take them.
I just don't know what to check... Should I just try to put a new volume ribbon? Would that be enough?
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Any help will be most appreciated.
Thank you.
can you feel the rocker button click ?
are the small pop caps still located on the volume switch points ! as they do fall off easily & are incredibly small.
volume is part of main flex board so lets hope it not damaged.
Mister B said:
are the small pop caps still located on the volume switch points ! as they do fall off easily & are incredibly small.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I can feel the rocker click (I think so), but I'm not sure what you mean by the pop caps. What are these? Should I add am image of my rocker (the plastic button)?
the little plastic domes that sit on the volume board with just a spot of tack glue holding them in place.
If all present & button feels correct & both up/down dead then possible you damaged flex ...
what can we do if were missing pop caps, can i somehow trigger that function with a screwdriver for example, how exactly do "pop caps work ?"
Just a small conductive graphite pad in center that bridges 2 contacts on the button board when cap pressed down.
Mister B said:
are the small pop caps still located on the volume switch points !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the picture you can see the little black dot, so they are still located.
Mister B said:
as they do fall off easily & are incredibly small.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:good: Oh yes, you are so right.
@ Tsury,
be sure that the main flex cable is connected to the main board.
tigger-gg said:
On the picture you can see the little black dot, so they are still located.:good: Oh yes, you are so right.
@ Tsury,
be sure that the main flex cable is connected to the main board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How do I check it? What other capability is the flex cable providing? The device is working, I can eliminate it in some other way probably.
You can use this guide to direct me: http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-HTC-HD2-PB81120-Logic-Board/5919/1
Thanks a lot!
Tsury said:
How do I check it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the main flex cable is not connected to the main board, loudspeaker sound and vibration do not work.
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-HTC-HD2-PB81120-Logic-Board/5919/8
---------- Post added at 08:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 PM ----------
Also be sure that the flex cable of volume rocker is not broken.
---------- Post added at 08:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:35 PM ----------
Outlaw78a said:
what can we do if were missing pop caps,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could buy new ones, e.g.:
http://www.chinagadgetland.com/htc-desire-hd2-volume-button-contact-chiporiginal-p-10004635.html
or
http://www.enjoyapples.com/volume-button-contact-chip-for-htc-desire-hd2_p1909.html
tigger-gg said:
If the main flex cable is not connected to the main board, loudspeaker sound and vibration do not work.
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-HTC-HD2-PB81120-Logic-Board/5919/8
---------- Post added at 08:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 PM ----------
Also be sure that the flex cable of volume rocker is not broken.
---------- Post added at 08:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:35 PM ----------
You could buy new ones, e.g.:
http://www.chinagadgetland.com/htc-desire-hd2-volume-button-contact-chiporiginal-p-10004635.html
or
http://www.enjoyapples.com/volume-button-contact-chip-for-htc-desire-hd2_p1909.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess I should buy a new flex first?
Open your HD2 again and connect the main flex cable on the main board. And dont forgett to unlock the tastatur flex cabel. I have forgotten it twice :crying: it tears very easily.
Have you edit your last post? First you have written that the sound and vibration also do not work.
tigger-gg said:
Open your HD2 again and connect the main flex cable on the main board. And dont forgett to unlock the tastatur flex cabel. I have forgotten it twice :crying: it tears very easily.
Have you edit your last post? First you have written that the sound and vibration also do not work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I edited it and forgot to re-add it!
My vibration and speaker indeed doesn't work.
tigger-gg said:
Open your HD2 again and connect the main flex cable on the main board. And dont forgett to unlock the tastatur flex cabel. I have forgotten it twice :crying: it tears very easily.
Have you edit your last post? First you have written that the sound and vibration also do not work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is the minimum I need to tear down in order to check it?
There are too many steps in this guide (remove vibrator/gps/bluetooth/camera).
You have to do all steps (1-22) of this giude http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-HTC-HD2-PB81120-Logic-Board/5919/1
tigger-gg said:
You have to do all steps (1-22) of this giude http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-HTC-HD2-PB81120-Logic-Board/5919/1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do I do with the big battery sticker in step 17? Just throw it away?
No, dont throw it away. You have to put it back when you assemble your device.
Maybe this will help you too:
http://pocketnow.com/hardware-1/off...-training-videos-leaked?wpmp_switcher=desktop
Related
I dont beleive this BS i dropped my lovable phone on the floor and now my keyboard is being tempermental!!!! it sometimes works find but other times it dosn't GRRRR!!!! The keys that are effected are the F key the dot key the delete key and a few others help!!!!!!!!
Andi
Andi1985 said:
I dont beleive this BS i dropped my lovable phone on the floor and now my keyboard is being tempermental!!!! it sometimes works find but other times it dosn't GRRRR!!!! The keys that are effected are the F key the dot key the delete key and a few others help!!!!!!!!
Andi
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With any luck it's just the keyboard connector that's a bit loose. It's just under the back cover so no major dismantling:
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Mike
Sorry.
How high was the fall?
I've dropped mine many times on all sorts of surfaces and still kickin... If you saw the condition of my 6 month old 8525 you'd shiver
No help to offer. :|
Do what mike says, mines taken many a tumble and i've had to set the keyboard connector and the front camera back in place twice now.
Just as the thread states....I DROPPED MY HERMES!!!!
Assessing the damage, part of my keyboard popped out slightly. It popped back into place, but while using the phone, if I close the sliding keyboard, my phone will freeze. Or in other words loss of power. If the keyboard is not closed all the way, I can use my phone. If I carefully close the keyboard, I sometimes can use the phone. A small bump will result in loss of power.
I believe I have a loose connection somewhere. I am going to take Mike's suggestion to look at the keyboard connection. Does anyone have any other ideas I should check?
Giving an update. I opened up my Hermes to find the battery connector has broken off. I did more searching on the forums about this very issue. Hopefully resoldering the connections will work. Understand that the board has many layers and a may have damaged the connection internally. Will have to see. Luckily, I have a friend who works on all sorts of digital components for installing and repair. Hopefully this is the ONLY problem and not just one of many!
WildnMN said:
Giving an update. I opened up my Hermes to find the battery connector has broken off. I did more searching on the forums about this very issue. Hopefully resoldering the connections will work. Understand that the board has many layers and a may have damaged the connection internally. Will have to see. Luckily, I have a friend who works on all sorts of digital components for installing and repair. Hopefully this is the ONLY problem and not just one of many!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Funnily enough i did make a post suggesting a problem with the battery connector - but you may know the site was hacked and we lost some posts from Sunday.
Anyway, let's hope it has just broken the surface solder joints and all will be well.
Mike
mikechannon said:
Funnily enough i did make a post suggesting a problem with the battery connector - but you may know the site was hacked and we lost some posts from Sunday.
Anyway, let's hope it has just broken the surface solder joints and all will be well.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Mike,
I had thought there was a post on this. I tried searching for it with no luck. Regardless, my friend was able to solder the surface joints and I am back up and running!
WildnMN said:
Thanks Mike,
I had thought there was a post on this. I tried searching for it with no luck. Regardless, my friend was able to solder the surface joints and I am back up and running!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great news, good result
Mike
Gooday
Have looked and searched but cant find answer
I have just replaced the housing on my jasjam and now when I open the keyboard the screen dosen't change to landscape mode (Ie rotate 90 deg)
Can someone please tell me where the switch contacts or whaterve is on the slider or how it works
I am getting very good a dis and re -assembly of the jasjam
Also any suggestions of a type of "glue" that can be used on the bits that are stuck to the back of the screen
THANKS
Barney318
barney318 said:
Gooday
Have looked and searched but cant find answer
I have just replaced the housing on my jasjam and now when I open the keyboard the screen dosen't change to landscape mode (Ie rotate 90 deg)
Can someone please tell me where the switch contacts or whaterve is on the slider or how it works
I am getting very good a dis and re -assembly of the jasjam
Also any suggestions of a type of "glue" that can be used on the bits that are stuck to the back of the screen
THANKS
Barney318
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Barney you are a bad bad bad bad bad bad bad bad boy, bend over this is going to hurt! But trust me I know what I'm doing, I have a Manual for it:
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This has been asked few times by the folk who change casings but forget to move the magnet from the old casing to the new one. The switch is magnet operated and in fairness it's a tiny thing that is not obviously a magnet. See here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=1535294&postcount=4
Mike
PS not sure you really need to glue anything on the back of the screen do you? Perhaps a little tape might be better if really necessary.
THANKS
Didn't hurt at all
Just another dis & re-assemble all is fine now
Thanks again
Barney318
barney318 said:
THANKS
Didn't hurt at all
Just another dis & re-assemble all is fine now
Thanks again
Barney318
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good stuff
Mike
I know this is kind of an older thread, but when I searched for my problem, this is the most recent thread that came up.
I'm having a similar problem to the OP--I recently took my phone apart per the wiki because one of my tracks completely came off the rail. When I put it back together, I had an extra small square shaped rubber piece that fell off the motherboard and my keyboard is unrepsonsive when I slide it out in addition to it not going to landscape mode. The only thing is that I didn't take apart the part of the case with the magnet--I was able to get the slider thing back on the track without completely removing the very back housing. Is there anything else that might be causing the problem?
Sorry if this aspect has been gone over before; when I searched, this was the only thread I saw with a similar problem.
crazylikeafox11 said:
I know this is kind of an older thread, but when I searched for my problem, this is the most recent thread that came up.
I'm having a similar problem to the OP--I recently took my phone apart per the wiki because one of my tracks completely came off the rail. When I put it back together, I had an extra small square shaped rubber piece that fell off the motherboard and my keyboard is unrepsonsive when I slide it out in addition to it not going to landscape mode. The only thing is that I didn't take apart the part of the case with the magnet--I was able to get the slider thing back on the track without completely removing the very back housing. Is there anything else that might be causing the problem?
Sorry if this aspect has been gone over before; when I searched, this was the only thread I saw with a similar problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh dearie me!!!
First, the little rubber piece is the microphone cover from the bottom end of the motherboard.
Second, the screen orientation does not work because the magnet operated switch is attached to the keyboard cable which is obviously not working because as you say the keyboard is not responsive.
The likely cause of both the keyboard problem and the orientation problem is this connector:
It's under the back cover and is OFTEN forgotten because when you replace the motherboard the push in connector gets curled up beneath the board rather than curling around to be plugged in. (OR you just need to push it firmly into place)
A wider angle picture:
Cheers
Oh, and WELCOME to XDA-Devs
Mike
I remember that little metal piece but did not remember to put it back when I was putting my phone back together. I'll have to give that a try later as I've come down with the flu. Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the advice Mike. It worked like a charm. Turns out one of my sliders coming off the tracks was the best thing that happened to my phone. In taking it apart, I also found that the speaker connection had completely come off which was the cause of my phone not having sound. So now aside from some cosmetic damage, my phone is back to working like new.
Hi,
I'm totaly confused about what I found on the main board of my HD2.
Now, Simple you think, if you look on google you find the pinout to be:
5 VCC +5 V
4 D− Data −
3 D+ Data +
2 Type A: connected to Ground
or
Type B: not connected
1 GND Black Signal Ground
Easy... Or????
My USB is broken from the PCB (looks like the coper on the pcb is not that thight to the bord. Well.. Since I did study electronocs, I should be able to fix it. I took my HD2 appart, but I found this:
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Now if you look at the connections, Pin 1 is clear, Pin 2 is connected Pin 5 is also clear. Pin 4 can be through an other layer, so that is also explanable.
BUT: Pin 3 ? Is that one not connected? Does it just use ground instead of data-?
Who can give some answers? I don't understand.
Thanks
Hi again,
Ok, I know it should be connected somewhere, but I can not find out where I can connect it. I hope someone knows where I can find a coper line or component which should be connected to pin 3.
I now heve all connected except pin3 which makes USB useless, but the charging works.
There is one more question, does anyone know where I could get a new mainboard for this phone and what the price is?
Hi,did U solve this?i have problem with microusb too...
pinouts
hope the pic help the to your problem.
be careful when soldering because the small pives will come apart if you atemot to solder with soldering iron.
best will be bga blow gun and positioning small wire near the components still be very careful otherwise you will not have what to fix.
For all, I did not solve it.. The HD2 worked fine, but flashing through USB was inposible. After a few months I droped it :-( screen was broken (Both, digitizer and LCD) and the usb broke again. so I droped it in the trash since it was not worth it anymore.... RIP HD2.... I will miss you....
kruithofm said:
For all, I did not solve it.. The HD2 worked fine, but flashing through USB was inposible. After a few months I droped it :-( screen was broken (Both, digitizer and LCD) and the usb broke again. so I droped it in the trash since it was not worth it anymore.... RIP HD2.... I will miss you....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you joking? Really dumped it?
Very big mistake!
You wasted a totally revivable/repairable hd2
Nope... still have it, but... digitizer + LCD + USB broke... And if I'm not wrong also the volume keys are teared.... So fixing it means buy LCD/digitizer/ribben kabel/mainboard... which is basicly a whole new HD2, without the casing and battery.
kruithofm said:
Nope... still have it, but... digitizer + LCD + USB broke... And if I'm not wrong also the volume keys are teared.... So fixing it means buy LCD/digitizer/ribben kabel/mainboard... which is basicly a whole new HD2, without the casing and battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm interested in buying it!
Think about for a fair price and PM me, if interested!
I'm not selling.. sorry...
Somebody probably already found this, but the mojo actually has a power and reset button under the hood
Sry for the dusty pic
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Nice. Could you please post more images of the opened device and maybe a description on how to open the MOJO without damaging anything?
Open the mojo
First of all, BE CAREFUL, I'm not taking responsibility if you crack something or drive a screwdriver through the motherboard, not that its likely but still
1. Disconnect everything from the device.
2. Orientate the device upside down and rotate it so the ports are away from you (easier to explain some of the steps)
3. Remove both rubber feet, the one next to the ports hides the four clasps in the picture below, the other one hides one screw that needs to be removed.
4. Grab something small, flat and a little wide (like a flat screwdriver)
One a time, press the clasps down and away from you.
At the same time grab the edge above the ports (the bottom plate) and bend it a LITTLE upwards so the clasps comes out a little easier.
4. When the four clasps are out of the sockets and the screw is removed from under the other rubber foot, you basically can open the whole thing like a clam.
Just be careful with the ports, especially the audio jack, it sits on a mini pcb inside and seemed a little fragile.
When you opened it so the ports are free, some force has to be applied. On the opposite side, inside the shell there are two more clasps that will resist.
I just kept opening it like a clam and the two pieces separated, everything intact.
5. Done!
I removed the motherboard from the bottom plate, the only things under there was the soldering points of the ports.
I also removed the heatsink, nothing exciting. (I dont recommend this because of the thermal compound between the cpu and heatsink)
The power and reset button
This was the most exciting thing I found, there was a button under the usb3 port, can figure out what it does though, if I hold it in under boot, the device wont boot.
PM me if you cant figure it out!
Why Mad Catz wouldn't put a power and reset button on the outside of the device is beyond me. I wish there was a way to power on and off from the controller...
But this is a nice find! I might have to mod an external switch, if that's an option...
Wow. Thank you for your explanation! :good:
Hey, Thanks...I heard about that before, but the Instructions and pics are great! I think I'll be tearing mine open this weekend & figure out how to expose those 2 buttons.
Seems one could drill a couple small holes in the case and put a couple small plastic pins as button extensions. Possibly the shafts from a couple of golf tees?
Does anyone know which button does what? and will the reset start it back up after being turned off with a software switch?
About the third button: will the MOJO not boot at all with it pressed, or does it boot into fastboot?
Hello all, I'm thinking to tear down mine and I might change the case for my Mojo. Not sure if I'll add a fan with a switch to toggle it on /off, and planning to expose those power buttons too. Has anyone done something similar? Maybe there are some 3d printer schemes somewhere on the net, I could not find any though. Thank you very much!
Hi yes it happened! my audio jack came off! will that stop the sound coming through the TV?
colks said:
Hi yes it happened! my audio jack came off! will that stop the sound coming through the TV?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No as long as your sound is going through the HDMI.
I'm a Chinese user using a SM-G935S(Exynos8890),and here is a problem that puzzle me since a month ago.
About a month ago I broke my screen by accident ,and then I asked samsung's authorized agent in China if they can replace my screen.They told me that the screen of G9350(China snapdragon) and G935S is compatible,so I just let them repair it,cost 1500CNY.
After that my earphone port just won't work,I have tried many ROMs,including samsung's stock firmware,SuperStock ROM,RR5.7.8,lineageOS14.1 and Mokee 71.1, but no matter how hard I try the 3.5mm port just won't work.I went back and asked samsung if it's a hardware issue,but they just told me they have no idea about that.They just told me that maybe a chip on the replaced screen caused the problem,but they are not sure.
So I just here to ask,if anyone know if this tiny chip really the reason of why my earphone port doesn't work?
(Picture shows the broken screen that replaced from my phone,and the headphone jack is now in my phone but it still refuse to work.)
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Better question would be where is your 3.5mm headphone jack?
The empty hole that I circled, that's where it should be.
---------- Post added at 07:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:04 PM ----------
Tapatalk for Android - Works awesome on my Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge
joe.skelly said:
Better question would be where is your 3.5mm headphone jack?
The empty hole that I circled, that's where it should be.

---------- Post added at 07:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:04 PM ----------
---------- Post added at 07:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:04 PM ----------

Tapatalk for Android - Works awesome on my Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
err...this is the broken screen that replaced from my phone,so the headphone jack is in my phone now.
joe.skelly said:
Better question would be where is your 3.5mm headphone jack?
The empty hole that I circled, that's where it should be.

---------- Post added at 07:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:04 PM ----------
---------- Post added at 07:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:04 PM ----------

Tapatalk for Android - Works awesome on my Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But it just refuse to work...even after I try to get a new jack.
Ok, I had to do some digging around the web, and technical stuff (which is something I enjoy).
What I found is that, yes the LCD / Digitizer Assembly is universal between the Snapdragon and Exynos chipset.
With the LCD replacement, the ribbon cable for the screen is farther up the phone, as seen on the picture above.
The same universal compatibility is also true with Audio Jack (headphones),
And the Loudspeaker Assembly
But, that's it. The chip you have marked on your original post should be under the audio jack ribbon accessory.
Aside from the audio jack, the rest of that board is charging. It's the Dock Port Flex Cable Assembly.
Those are different.
Snapdragon (935a)
Exynos (935f)
Now, with that being said, depending on where they got the screen from, it may have had the Flex Cable already attached.
If that new screen had the cable, and you already know that the replacement screen came from a Snapdragon phone, then that might be the problem.
Unfortunately, the only way to know for sure is to open your phone back up, and after removing the Loudspeaker Assembly, check the ribbon cable for this:
If you look back up and look closely at the Dock Port Flex Cable Assembly, the chip you have circled is different on the Snapdragon version, the chip is in a different location, and the Audio Jack port connector visual looks different.
Im trying to give you as much information as possible, because the repair shop did something to your phone, and it drives me nuts when they take advantage of customers.
The simple fact that the Dock Port Flex assembly is still attached to your broken screen, so that tells you right there that they used a different assembly with the replacement.
And they put in a Snapdragon screen, then I'd say with about 99.9% certainty that they just used the the assembly already attached to the screen.
joe.skelly said:
Ok, I had to do some digging around the web, and technical stuff (which is something I enjoy).
What I found is that, yes the LCD / Digitizer Assembly is universal between the Snapdragon and Exynos chipset.

With the LCD replacement, the ribbon cable for the screen is farther up the phone, as seen on the picture above.
The same universal compatibility is also true with Audio Jack (headphones),

And the Loudspeaker Assembly

But, that's it. The chip you have marked on your original post should be under the audio jack ribbon accessory.
Aside from the audio jack, the rest of that board is charging. It's the Dock Port Flex Cable Assembly.
Those are different.
Snapdragon (935a)

Exynos (935f)

Now, with that being said, depending on where they got the screen from, it may have had the Flex Cable already attached.
If that new screen had the cable, and you already know that the replacement screen came from a Snapdragon phone, then that might be the problem.
Unfortunately, the only way to know for sure is to open your phone back up, and after removing the Loudspeaker Assembly, check the ribbon cable for this:
With the LCD replacement, the ribbon cable for the screen is farther up the phone, as seen on the picture above.
The same universal compatibility is also true with Audio Jack (headphones),

And the Loudspeaker Assembly

But, that's it. The chip you have marked on your original post should be under the audio jack ribbon accessory.
Aside from the audio jack, the rest of that board is charging. It's the Dock Port Flex Cable Assembly.
Those are different.
Snapdragon (935a)

Exynos (935f)

Now, with that being said, depending on where they got the screen from, it may have had the Flex Cable already attached.
If that new screen had the cable, and you already know that the replacement screen came from a Snapdragon phone, then that might be the problem.
Unfortunately, the only way to know for sure is to open your phone back up, and after removing the Loudspeaker Assembly, check the ribbon cable for this:

If you look back up and look closely at the Dock Port Flex Cable Assembly, the chip you have circled is different on the Snapdragon version, the chip is in a different location, and the Audio Jack port connector visual looks different.
Im trying to give you as much information as possible, because the repair shop did something to your phone, and it drives me nuts when they take advantage of customers.
The simple fact that the Dock Port Flex assembly is still attached to your broken screen, so that tells you right there that they used a different assembly with the replacement.
And they put in a Snapdragon screen, then I'd say with about 99.9% certainty that they just used the the assembly already attached to the screen.
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Thank you very much!And I'll go back to that repair shop this weekend and ask for an answer.See if I can get this thing finally work,or get a resonable compensation.