Related
I've successfully taken my HD2 apart now I'm not sure about the digitizer I need. My phone doesn't have a T-Mobile logo and it came with the leather pouch which I read means it's not the T-M version.
I'm looking for a new digitizer and the one that looks like the connector would fit says it's for the T-M version. Rather than go on about it here is a pic of my digitizer. I'm in the UK so if anybody has shopping suggestions I'd be grateful.
Ty
hypertyper said:
I've successfully taken my HD2 apart now I'm not sure about the digitizer I need. My phone doesn't have a T-Mobile logo and it came with the leather pouch which I read means it's not the T-M version.
I'm looking for a new digitizer and the one that looks like the connector would fit says it's for the T-M version. Rather than go on about it here is a pic of my digitizer. I'm in the UK so if anybody has shopping suggestions I'd be grateful.
Ty
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't say too much based from picture posted above ...
It could have already replaced unbranded digitizer or it's Telstra, European, Taiwanese version... Are the call and end buttons colored on your phone (green and red respectively)?
If You have enough money, about 89-120$, better choice will be to buy a LCD+digitizer assembly also named LCM, they will work at all versions of HD2, not only T-mobile or European, I tested the LCM from European HD2 with in a T-mobile version of HD2 ant it works perfect. So go on eBay.com and buy one
Call buttons are all grey. I've though about getting the whole combo but it's more than twice the price and I'm not exactly rich so it would have been nice to just get a digitizer. I was hoping there would a way to identify properly which digitizer I need. I've sent a message to one of the suppliers on ebay. I'll see what comes out of it.
According to this article the different versions of the HD2 aren't physically the same size in terms of casing. Do the LCM units fit all the same?
pocketnow"dot"com/thought/t-mobile-hd2-vs-htc-hd2-comparison
Clarification
hypertyper said:
Call buttons are all grey. I've though about getting the whole combo but it's more than twice the price and I'm not exactly rich so it would have been nice to just get a digitizer. I was hoping there would a way to identify properly which digitizer I need. I've sent a message to one of the suppliers on ebay. I'll see what comes out of it.
According to this article the different versions of the HD2 aren't physically the same size in terms of casing. Do the LCM units fit all the same?
pocketnow"dot"com/thought/t-mobile-hd2-vs-htc-hd2-comparison
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let me help you:
#1.your picture is defining an uncommon/unbranded TMO(bile)US touchscreen(No doubt about, at least for me!), but grey hardware keys are for international HD2 model, probably you have a (let say) hybrid (home made)version between american(TMOUS) and international model;
#2.nevertheless, in your financial position, I'll look on ebay for an appropriate touchscreen model(there are plenty, most of them with very clear pictures like your's) for about US$30-40;
#3. if you want a combo, as far as I know(and pvii already said it) the 2 LCMs are geometrically identical, but the frame/chasis on which lay on the LCM is different(the american model is longer on 2,0-2,5mm);
#4. international model is cheaper & easier to find.
For more informations/help feel free to contact me!
Cheers!
hypertyper said:
Call buttons are all grey. I've though about getting the whole combo but it's more than twice the price and I'm not exactly rich so it would have been nice to just get a digitizer. I was hoping there would a way to identify properly which digitizer I need. I've sent a message to one of the suppliers on ebay. I'll see what comes out of it.
According to this article the different versions of the HD2 aren't physically the same size in terms of casing. Do the LCM units fit all the same?
pocketnow"dot"com/thought/t-mobile-hd2-vs-htc-hd2-comparison
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
May be it will be better if You post a photo of rear side of your display or at least say it's product number (from sticker on square copper pad, rear side), i.e. P/N:60H00300-00P is for T-Mobile and P/N:60H00295-00P is for international version.
If You don't have enough money for a european LCM combo, you can buy a LCD apart and digitizer apart, even from different sellers but you have to buy matching parts, both for European or both for T-Mobile version.
Thanks for the info guys. The serial number is the kind of solid identification that I was looking for. The serial on my screen ending in 300-00P indicates that it's the TMobile version.
My theory is that since this phone was bought when it wasn't exactly new on the market HTC had switched to the solderless screens which seem more modern?!?
I'm assuming that in terms of connection the digitisers that look like they will fit in terms of connection should work. I'm only worried about the dimensions of it since the casing of mine is smaller than the real TMobile version from what I can tell.
Since I can't find anything else on ebay I guess I'll order one of the TMobile ones and see if it fits. I'll look for a shop with return policy just in case.
Thanks for the help. If anybody has further suggestions I'd love to hear them.
[/QUOTE]I'm only worried about the dimensions of it since the casing of mine is smaller than the real TMobile version from what I can tell.
Thanks for the help. If anybody has further suggestions I'd love to hear them.[/QUOTE]
Read carefully my previous post:
you don't have to be worry, the touchscreen, lcd and lcm are geometrically (length x width) identical!
I'm only worried about the dimensions of it since the casing of mine is smaller than the real TMobile version from what I can tell.
Thanks for the help. If anybody has further suggestions I'd love to hear them.[/QUOTE]
Read carefully my previous post:
you don't have to be worry, the touchscreen, lcd and lcm are geometrically (length x width) identical![/QUOTE]
Yupp, any LCM will fit on any model of HD2.
I wasn't sure which part was identical but if the digitizers are then what I ordered should do the trick. Digitizer should arrive this week so hopefully I'll have something to report about
edit: Digitizer arrived and fits perfectly. I guess my phone was some weird mutation. Solution is to just buy a digitizer with the correct connection, job done.
Oh and getting the right tape is a total *****. I had to take everything apart again because my tape wasn't strong enough!
I thought I'd post my findings and produce some cliffnotes on how I fixed my HD2.
Firstly, if you search youtube for "leo as" and "leo dis" you will find the official HTC videos on how to assemble and dis-assemble the HD2. They make it look easier than it is. Also, they don't separate the digitizer from the screen.
I ordered the tools to "dis" off ebay. Especially the T5 screwdriver was worth getting since it allowed me to find out which digitizer I need. I have a non TMobile version but needed the TM digitizer.
I found that using an old credit card type of card works very well for taking the phone apart. It can reach further into the phone and bends rather than breaking like some of the cheap tools from ebay.
Especially for separating the digitizer and screen it's great. I heated up the digitizer & lcd combo in the oven for a couple of minutes like the video advertised for taking the middle part of the phone apart (you'll see in the vid). Here comes the interesting part: Instead of sliding the card / tool all the way across the screen (between screen and digi), it's enough to just separate it around the edges. There is no glue or adhesive in the middle. It seems obvious now but I got lots of glue all over the LCD which was a bit** to clean.
Another tip that is worth repeating is getting the cheap double sided tape from ebay which is meant for Iphone digitizers (3M branded). I got three of them for £1 incl delivery. I used it to put the "middle" of the phone together. Screen and digi I did with cheap double sided tape which is working but I regret somewhat.
Another tip would be the whit cable (flash?) which goes on the bottom of the mainboard. I put it on top to start with. It's easy to mix up. Also it makes sense to put one end on before you put down the mainboard because that way you still have proper access.
Make sure you have good tape and be patient. I had crap tape and just slammed things together because I was so keen to see if the phone still works. I had to take it all apart again which almost broke the phone because it was coming apart in all sorts of places.
Overall it's like a big, fragile puzzle. I got the phone from a family member who had dropped it so all I had to get was the digitizer and tape. Now I have the best phone that ever lived
If anybody has questions, I feel like I know the hardware of the HD2 inside out.
I also took mine apart to replace the digitizer. I haven't got the new one yet though. I also watched the take apart vid on youtube. Unlike you I didn't disconnect the white wire from under the board. As a matter of fact, I left the other wires attached to the mainboard and just disconnected them from the GPS, camera and Bluetooth boards. At the end of the little channel that the wires are in, there was a little metal tab that held the wires in place. I just bent the tab up to remove the wires. Like you I used a piece of credit card to loosen the glued pieces.
I hope my post is in the right spot.
Anybody know if the connectors are the same for a LCD from a Samsung 10.1 (p7500) as the LCD in a windows tablet?
I have a Gigabyte S1082 (windows) tablet that has a 10.1 display, however the display on my Samsung Android 10.1 is by far far far superior. The LCD inside the Samsung has a way better back-light, better colors, and a way better viewing angle.
I don't think its a film or a protector on the digitizer, I think its a cheap LCD inside the Gigabyte.
Not sure if the width or height is the same, but I would think as most hardware for windows is plug n play, I could put any LCD in if it were the same dimensions right?
Ebay has lots of LCD's for the Samsung p7500.
interesting thread.. tjinking abt doing that too
I am not sure the chip that is soldered on the main board that communicates with the LCD is matched to a specific LCD or not. The Samsung 10.1 uses Samsung CMC6230R chip, and that resides on the main. Not sure about the Gigabyte tablet. However I would be willing to bet it might support a variety, because the tablet has VGA and hdmi out connectors.
I want to know if anybody has attempted to use a Samsung P7500 LCD on a different brand of tablet.
You can do this in a laptop, since the LCD is connected to a cable that passes through the hinge into the main body and plugs into the graphic board with a standardized connector.
In the case of tablets, things are a little more complex. If you open your Galaxy, you will see a long flat cable that connects the main board with the LCD screen (actually you will see three: one for the LCD, other for the touch glass and a third one for the docking connector). This flat cable is a plastic sheet with circuit tracks printed in it is shaped in a way that makes it rest just at the main board video connector. A different tablet can have the video connector in another place and so the LCD for that tablet will have a flat cable with a different shape.
What's more, if your tablet uses Wacom technology for use with a stylus, the "Wacom tablet" part will be integrated with the LCD and the flat wire will drive the signals for both the video and the Wacom digitizer.
As an example, the screens of the Galaxy Tab 2 10.1 and the Galaxy Note 10.1 are the same size and have the same resolution but they are not interchangeable because one has the Wacom digitizer and the other not so the connectors are different.
I don't think there is any standardization in the LCD connectors of tablets so chances are you can not connect your Galaxy LCD in your Gigabyte tablet.
But don't take my word for true. why don't you open your tablets and have a look to the flat cables and video connector to see if they look the same? Or you can browse ebay for LCDs for both tablets and most probably you can see the flat cable in the pictures.
Thanks
thanks for the info
Maybe Yes ... Maybe No ...
like @jedikalimero already said ...
Open the hardware and see the connector
If it the same connector, you can change it ...
I'm already saw my Friends changing LCD on Handphone
When he use the Original LCD, the backlight and color is smooth. Better than Assembling LCD (Not Ori)
But ... since this case is on SmartPhone (Tablet), you better googling the LCD
and Compare it with yourself without Open you Tablet hardware
CMIIW
I will be using this thread to track my upgrade of the amplifier chip on the Intel Sofia based Joying units.
I chose the Pioneer PA2030A but apparently you can also use the TDA7850 chip.
To quote @kampfschachtel:
If your speakers are 4 ohm I would use the Pioneer as it has more power at 4 ohm, if you have 2 ohm speakers (like eg a lot of the BMW ones) then the TDA7850 is your choice. Be aware you get orginals as they are lot low quality clones on the market.
Joying radio and new Pioneer PA2030A chip
You can see in the back where the amp chip is anchored in the metal frame with two screws. The metal frame provides some cooling.
First step: take unit apart using the 2 screws - 1 on each side. At this step, say goodbye to your warranty!
1 more screws on the back and then you can take the top cover off
Behold! The internals!
Slide up the 2 USB cables from the frame and carefully disconnect the single USB cable from the board, the ribbon cable from the motherboard (which takes video and touch input to the screen) and then on the back, unscrew the GPS antenna from the frame. The other bundle of mic, radio antenna and USB cable just keep as is, as it's more work to untangle the wires.
NOTE! The ribbon cable uses a slide-lock to keep the cable in. Carefully pull the brown slider back and then remove the ribbon from the slot. Don't force it or you may damage it and will need to get a new ribbon.
Your can see the cables that were removed.
Next remove the following 4 screws and also the smaller 2 screws holding the amp chip to the frame
You can see the metal bracket that holds the amp chip falls off. Notice in the back, that the amp chip is held to the frame with some thermal paste. We'll need some more of that later when the chip is replaced.
Remove 2 more bolts that hold the motherboard - on the corners. 1 you can see where my screwdriver is resting.
Carefully pry out the board from the case.
You can see the chip we'll replace and the solders in the back that we'll have to work with.
NOTE: interesting marking on the board - PX3-MAIN. Other folks might know more on this, but did they re-use the main host board from their other stereos with minor modifications? Looks like it.
Next step - warm up the solder gun!
Time to go find my solder gun... dammit! Where did I put it? Haha!
You're going to want to pay attention to how high the chip sits on the board as the new one will have to be at a similar height to bolt back to the metal frame.
---removed---
Another side note... It looks like the SD card reader board has space for another SD card reader slot. If one wants dual SD card, maybe another soldering project down the line? The metal frame is also pre-cut for the second slot so it would be an easy project!
Making slow progress on removing the chip. A nice solder sucker would be great right now!
It looks easy, but that soldering looks the most difficult part of the job, how can you loose it with so many pins on the board, and i suppose you can do that by every chinese android radio?
Flemischguy said:
It looks easy, but that soldering looks the most difficult part of the job, how can you loose it with so many pins on the board, and i suppose you can do that by every chinese android radio?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You take your time Slowly heat up pins and you go around to each pin... over and over again.
bogdi1988 said:
You take your time Slowly heat up pins and you go around to each pin... over and over again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you use a classic soldering on electric? I think that i would use a soldering on gas, which is instantly hot and blow hot air over the pins (and faster)
Just a thought
So I got the chip soldered. Ran a quick test and got audio, but the channels are all over the place. Gotta trace all my solders to make sure I didn't mess up anything.
Flemischguy said:
Do you use a classic soldering on electric? I think that i would use a soldering on gas, which is instantly hot and blow hot air over the pins (and faster)
Just a thought
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, I did use a classic one.
I might have to re-do all solders.
Well, until I figure out my solder stuff... feedback on what I was able to test as it was.
Audio was significantly more powerful! Quite a difference! I'll spend some more time on this over the next couple days.
It is a tricky mod, but worth it!
I think my chip might be faulty so I got a new one coming in next week. I'll update this post next week when I get it
One of my friends, after drinking too much, thrashed my tablet to the floor, way back in 2013. The digitizer and speakers died of the shock. Still it worked with mouse and headphones. I did the final damage in 2014, when I intended to buy a digitizer; so I separated the LCD from the front glass by blowing hot air. Actually I unscrewed the front panel assembly first, then blowed hot air on it and pulled the LCD backwards slowly from one side with the help of a small flat-head screwdriver as a lever. I did not know the functioning of LCD panels back then. I removed some rainbow colored semiliquid, thinking it to be glue, from the separated surfaces with the help of isopropanol. I observed that the LCD went uniformly white when switched on. That being my my first android device I could not throw it out. After three long years, I examined it again. The battery was dead. Still it will switch on from direct 5V input after a little mod. Now I see that another glass layer at least 1mm thick, smaller from bezel and exactly the size of LCD, is sticking behind the front glass. This combo works as a polarizer. Now I doubt whether what I thought to be glue was actually the liquid crystal layer itself. Pictures attached. Any clue on what actually had happened back then? Is there no option but to throw out the display assembly?
Bump
bump
you sir, have ****ed up. based on what I am seeing here (and I am far from an expert) you have indeed removed the liquid crystals from the display. You're tablet is ****ed. Buy a new Nexus 7, and swap the mother board from your old one and stick it in the new one if you want to keep the whole "first android device" feeling. Otherwise, your "first android device" is broken. I only reccomend this, because an LCD replacement is about 30$, whereas you can pick up a good condition used Nexus 7 8GB (who cared how big the storage is, your swapping boards) off ebay for around the same price. Good Luck with whatever your next move is.
I heartily thank you for insulting my foolishness. I really needed one to move on from lingering false hope.
It seems there's like one or two factories that pump these LCDs out and then they're rebranded 40 different ways. I got a unit for free that uses one of those 7 inch screens. The touch function works fine and the image is perfect, but the very surface of it has a huge scratch on it. Just toying with it these seem to have basically no protection at all, they scratch crazy easy. An example of the screen I'm talking about on a Joying unit;
https://www.amazon.com/Octa-core-Un...e=UTF8&qid=1516587015&sr=1-17&keywords=7+inch
Anyone know if these can be sourced online and if the outer part can be replaced or has this ever been tried?
ArgonautPollux said:
It seems there's like one or two factories that pump these LCDs out and then they're rebranded 40 different ways. I got a unit for free that uses one of those 7 inch screens. The touch function works fine and the image is perfect, but the very surface of it has a huge scratch on it. Just toying with it these seem to have basically no protection at all, they scratch crazy easy. An example of the screen I'm talking about on a Joying unit;
https://www.amazon.com/Octa-core-Un...e=UTF8&qid=1516587015&sr=1-17&keywords=7+inch
Anyone know if these can be sourced online and if the outer part can be replaced or has this ever been tried?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The ones that are inset with a plastic bezel can be replaced with generics, but those "all glass" ones are custom. They don't typically scratch especially easy, you might have a different branded one made of a super cheap plastic? Or possibly a plastic "screen protector" or clear shipping skin stuck to it?