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Last night, after I flashed the newest Mary ROM, it turned off suddenly and would not turn back on. I heard something rattling around in there so I took off the battery cover and removed the battery. Didn't see anything, so I took out the stylus to see if it was making the noise. When I shook the phone (gently), a very very very tiny screw flew out of the phone.
The phone now will randomly turn itself off.
I have no idea where this screw goes. I think I have to take the phone apart to look.
Has this happened to anyone? Does anyone know how the screw could've come loose?
when i took my niki apart to line up the case better (HTC Build is [email protected]!) two screws that hold the slider on were loose!!! in fact weren't even tightened up, which is odd, as all the others had some kinda blue glue holding them in. :/
so yes, mine were loose
badaas said:
when i took my niki apart to line up the case better (HTC Build is [email protected]!) two screws that hold the slider on were loose!!! in fact weren't even tightened up, which is odd, as all the others had some kinda blue glue holding them in. :/
so yes, mine were loose
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
oh wow. were those two loose screws very very very tiny? the one that fell out of mine were smaller than screws that you use to hold glasses together.
badaas said:
when i took my niki apart to line up the case better (HTC Build is [email protected]!) two screws that hold the slider on were loose!!! in fact weren't even tightened up, which is odd, as all the others had some kinda blue glue holding them in. :/
so yes, mine were loose
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
is there an online guide on how to open and take niki apart? Because also my phone fell and the slider is a bit lose on the bottom side..
Thanks!
yes, i got one, i will have to sort it when i get home
eyecrispy said:
were those two loose screws very very very tiny?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
theyre about the size of the two you can see on the slider back when you slide it out
badaas said:
yes, i got one, i will have to sort it when i get home
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, hope u can share it asap
let me know!
badaas said:
theyre about the size of the two you can see on the slider back when you slide it out
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the one that fell out of my niki is 1/2 or 1/3 the size of that one. sooo small!
did you work it out? i took apart my nike to rebuid it a bit better, the back was creaking after last time i took it apart..
the screw could have come from a bunch of places, i noticed a small screw holding the mainboard in and one holding the small pcb at the top with the speaker etc.. its probably one of them. i'd screw it back in asap though.
good luck.
ducamie said:
did you work it out? i took apart my nike to rebuid it a bit better, the back was creaking after last time i took it apart..
the screw could have come from a bunch of places, i noticed a small screw holding the mainboard in and one holding the small pcb at the top with the speaker etc.. its probably one of them. i'd screw it back in asap though.
good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. Unfortunately, I haven't had time to go buy a kit that I can use with those itty bitty screws. I hope to do it soon. Will report back to let you know where that little bugger came from.
Hey there...no available guide yet..?
what size tools are you guys using?
I sent my husband to the store to get tools so I can put this cursed screw back in my phone but the kit he got was too big! What kind of tools are you guys using to take your phones apart?? Where might I get some??
im not sure where you can get them - most likely any hardware store, online, ebay. there are 2 types of screws in the nike.. you'll need a torx screwdriver (a t6 should do it) to get it open, and a real small philips (not sure about size.. just real small lol) for a couple of screws inside..
ducamie said:
im not sure where you can get them - most likely any hardware store, online, ebay. there are 2 types of screws in the nike.. you'll need a torx screwdriver (a t6 should do it) to get it open, and a real small philips (not sure about size.. just real small lol) for a couple of screws inside..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure the one we tried was a t6. I'll have to verify.
badaas said:
when i took my niki apart to line up the case better (HTC Build is [email protected]!) two screws that hold the slider on were loose!!! in fact weren't even tightened up, which is odd, as all the others had some kinda blue glue holding them in. :/
so yes, mine were loose
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know this is slighty offtopic and i apologise. However, after you tightened your case up did it eliminate all the 'wobble' when the device was closed?
hey guys!
does anyone know where i can get some screws for my g1?
i need the three that attach to the metal back plate behind the lcd and about 5 of the silver torx screws that goes under the battery cover.
if not ill throw a couple bucks someone's way for these screws. please help me
I have screws from a few parted out g1's but i wont be back in town to ship them until Tuesday. If you cant locate any shoot me a PM and we can chat there.
how about some super glue ;-)
crpercodani said:
how about some super glue ;-)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got duct tape inside of mine, its holding pretty well
I had to use bubble gum last time, now my phone smells like peppermint.
Hey everyone my HTC HD2 got the Non-Responsive screen problem a week ago, & did a lot of research and found out that it was most likely a hardware problem with a cable..... So a lot of people would tell the people with the problem that the "Touch Screen Digitizer" is dead (like the cable), or it needs to be cleaned... pretty well go out and buy a new one... BUT I have never found evidence that someone has done this and it has successfully "cured" their HTC HD2 Non-Responsive touch screen problem...
So I was looking for anyone on the forums that could confirm this is a solution or give me any tips on what I should do.... AND no I don't have enough money to get a new phone, nor do I live in the USA so I can't send it in to fix it...
This is what I was going to buy for it:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-OEM-HTC-...781?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519a3d2e45
Thanks for taking the time to read my Thread, its much appreciated!! I hope I can find a fix!!
PS: If anyone wanted to know what it looks like out of curiosity I posted 3 pictures with RED circle HIGHLIGHTING the problem when I try to touch something....
My digitizer has been a bit dodgy for the past few months. It's ironic that when I finally found out what the issue was and called HTC, my factory warranty had ended exactly 4 days prior to the call.
Fast forward 3 months and my phone has now been unresponsive for 3 hours despite my prying and tweaking various hard parts.
I disassembled the phone down to the main board just to see how hard the install is, but it's a bit intimidating once it's time to start pulling all the film and ribbons. A bit too tight and small parts for my liking.
Time to hit CL to see if I can find a cheap replacement.
Good luck with your repairs. I may be following in your footsteps if I can not find a good deal.
Yeah I will see how well it goes... if anyone has useful info, i will be more than grad to hear it
Thanks
Many people attempt to replace a digitizer, but I simply don't recommend it, we see enough of do-it-yourselvers who created problems in addition to the original ones.
What I do recommend, however, and I stated it on many threads already, is to get an LCD+DIGITIZER assembly. Simply because it is easier to fit. Not saying the overall fitting is easy, always depends on your overall skill, so ensure that you are familiar with the procedure BEFORE you begin. But you will save yourself a lot of trouble by getting the whole thing, as opposed to the digitizer only for the sake of a few bucks.
However, if anyone still feels intimidated by the whole thing, I am on the lookout for working main board. Advertised a few times in the marketplace with limited success. So if anyone smashed their baby and will be looking to replace, rather than repair - drop me a PM. I am in NZ. Will pay by Paypal.
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
cheeselump said:
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How much did the set cost?
cheeselump said:
Mm i've replaced my HD2 screen just last night. Trust me it's among the most complex phones around.
Unless you've done a few phones before i wouldn't advice you DIY. Otherwise you can look carefully at the Leo Ds. and Leo As. guides on youtube. those helped me!
Mm i killed my LCD in the process of removing the digitizer as it's stupidly glued on to each other and the LCD glass is thin as hell.
Get the set, it'll save you your time
Mm i got mine of ebay, from the seller goodgoodsecho. It works perfectly well for me!
All the best!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks I will check it out, hopefully it won't be to hard and I hope I can repair it!! oh and could you post a link of the youtube & manual you used to replace your screen?? Thanks
Oh would anyone suggest then just calling HTC and sending it to them to repair?? or does that cost to much??
Thanks everyone for the help
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
GnatGoSplat said:
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yah I was looking at the video's and they were taking off EVERYTHING... it looks really hard to do.. I don't know whether I want to do it anymore.....
oh and are you talking about the digitizer itself or the LCD+digitizer for your method?
Thanks
Heronization said:
Yah I was looking at the video's and they were taking off EVERYTHING... it looks really hard to do.. I don't know whether I want to do it anymore.....
oh and are you talking about the digitizer itself or the LCD+digitizer for your method?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, there is absolutely no reason to take off everything like some people seem to think is necessary.
The way I'm talking about requires removing LCD+digitizer. In fact, I think you'll always have to remove both because the connector for the digitizer is under the LCD. Anyway, the way I did it, I went from removing the the phone insides from the rear housing straight to separating the LCD+digitizer assembly from the frame. No removal of any boards or flex cables. The only cable to be disconnected is the LCD+digitizer assembly one. Getting it disconnected and reconnected does require unplugging the front button flex and removing the screws for the bottom logic board to loosen it, but that's all.
GnatGoSplat said:
Yep, there is absolutely no reason to take off everything like some people seem to think is necessary.
The way I'm talking about requires removing LCD+digitizer. In fact, I think you'll always have to remove both because the connector for the digitizer is under the LCD. Anyway, the way I did it, I went from removing the the phone insides from the rear housing straight to separating the LCD+digitizer assembly from the frame. No removal of any boards or flex cables. The only cable to be disconnected is the LCD+digitizer assembly one. Getting it disconnected and reconnected does require unplugging the front button flex and removing the screws for the bottom logic board to loosen it, but that's all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow that sounds pretty simple! and for you it all works perfectly now?? no calibration needed or problems?? Maybe I will try it after all..... but what screw drivers to I need to dissemble it?? the screws look different from normal..
Heronization said:
Wow that sounds pretty simple! and for you it all works perfectly now?? no calibration needed or problems?? Maybe I will try it after all..... but what screw drivers to I need to dissemble it?? the screws look different from normal..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it's not that simple because simply getting the HD2 insides out of the rear housing is difficult if you've never done it before. I believe the screwdriver you need is a Torx T-5. Once you get the screws out, you will need a plastic opening tool to go between the digitizer and rear housing frame. They look like this:
http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Plastic-Opening-Tools/IF145-000
I found it comes out much easier if I use the tool to make a gap along the top edge and then slide the entire end of a scrap credit card into that gap, then that makes the whole assembly easier to pry out along the sides with the tool. I know on one of the vids, the guy takes forever doing this part and I can understand why, but once I figured out sliding a credit card into the top gap as far as it would go, I was able to get it apart much easier.
I can't answer whether the phone will work properly, because I just ordered the new digitizer over the weekend and haven't put it back together. I did remove the LCD+digitizer assembly and then re-connected it and put it back, then powered on the phone just to make sure pulling the LCD didn't hurt it - it didn't, everything worked as well as it did before. I did manage to crack the digitizer more when I tried to get the insides out of the rear housing before I figured out the credit card trick, so fortunately I was not trying to save my digitizer as it was already cracked. If you are just wanting to try to clean or fiddle with the connection, then you're going to have to be a LOT more careful than I was because it was all too easy to crack the digitizer!
I'm guessing yours probably needs replacement though. I sent my HTC Surround in for a funny acting digitizer, and the digitizer was replaced.
Oh, and if I would have bought an LCD+digitizer pre-assembled unit, that would have been super easy to replace. However, I opted to save $50+ by buying just the digitizer. Not too sure how I'm going to prevent dust getting in it, and I've read thickness of the adhesive is critical. I may regret it later!
GnatGoSplat said:
Well, it's not that simple because simply getting the HD2 insides out of the rear housing is difficult if you've never done it before. I believe the screwdriver you need is a Torx T-5. Once you get the screws out, you will need a plastic opening tool to go between the digitizer and rear housing frame. They look like this:
http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Plastic-Opening-Tools/IF145-000
I found it comes out much easier if I use the tool to make a gap along the top edge and then slide the entire end of a scrap credit card into that gap, then that makes the whole assembly easier to pry out along the sides with the tool. I know on one of the vids, the guy takes forever doing this part and I can understand why, but once I figured out sliding a credit card into the top gap as far as it would go, I was able to get it apart much easier.
I can't answer whether the phone will work properly, because I just ordered the new digitizer over the weekend and haven't put it back together. I did remove the LCD+digitizer assembly and then re-connected it and put it back, then powered on the phone just to make sure pulling the LCD didn't hurt it - it didn't, everything worked as well as it did before. I did manage to crack the digitizer more when I tried to get the insides out of the rear housing before I figured out the credit card trick, so fortunately I was not trying to save my digitizer as it was already cracked. If you are just wanting to try to clean or fiddle with the connection, then you're going to have to be a LOT more careful than I was because it was all too easy to crack the digitizer!
I'm guessing yours probably needs replacement though. I sent my HTC Surround in for a funny acting digitizer, and the digitizer was replaced.
Oh, and if I would have bought an LCD+digitizer pre-assembled unit, that would have been super easy to replace. However, I opted to save $50+ by buying just the digitizer. Not too sure how I'm going to prevent dust getting in it, and I've read thickness of the adhesive is critical. I may regret it later!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok thanks I think thats what I am going to do, first dissemble it then try to move the cable around because, just yesterday it started to work again and then today it isn't working. I will contact you if I have a problem or get stuck, if that is ok with you
Thanks a lot
Heronization said:
Ok thanks I think thats what I am going to do, first dissemble it then try to move the cable around because, just yesterday it started to work again and then today it isn't working. I will contact you if I have a problem or get stuck, if that is ok with you
Thanks a lot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, no prob. I can post a pic of the digitizer lifted from the frame which shows where the adhesive tapes are that you have to go through, if it would help.
GnatGoSplat said:
One word of advice I have, is just remove the LCD/digitizer module assembly and don't remove anything else.
I have no idea why these videos and manuals have you pulling circuit boards, flex cables, and disconnecting stuff just to remove the LCD module. All you really have to do after removing the rear housing is to cut through the double-sided tape holding the LCD module to the main frame, being careful to know where the flex is and not to go too deep there. I used a credit card for that, but anything similarly flat and thin should do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey lolz I need your help already, I just took off the back housing and now Im lost on what to do... It looks to me as if you do have to remove the cables from the motherboard to get to it?? and what is the double sided tape? and isn't everything connected to the lcd?? lolz this is my first time doing any phone disassemble.. Thanks
added a picture of what I was thinking of doing... or am I doing this all wrong... because you did say we don't need to remove any flex cable or wires and stuff
Thanks!!
Heronization said:
Hey lolz I need your help already, I just took off the back housing and now Im lost on what to do... It looks to me as if you do have to remove the cables from the motherboard to get to it?? and what is the double sided tape? and isn't everything connected to the lcd?? lolz this is my first time doing any phone disassemble.. Thanks
added a picture of what I was thinking of doing... or am I doing this all wrong... because you did say we don't need to remove any flex cable or wires and stuff
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, I didn't disconnect anything except the circled connector on the far right of your picture. You will need to do that to remove the LCD flex cable from the logic board.
I've attached a pic of the LCD module loosened from the frame. What you do is use something thin and flat to separate the adhesive tape holding the LCD to the frame. You will need to lift some of that black fabric tape on the edge to see where the LCD module meets the frame. Near the top, you will probably have to slide your separating tool all the way through to separate the tape (I used a scrap credit card). Avoid the area where the LCD flex cable is, because you could damage it! It's on the lower right of the LCD if you are looking from the front. When the LCD is loose, lift up from left to right (when LCD is facing you), pretending that there is a hinge on the right side. This is because you don't want to put any force on the LCD flex.
Once you've got your phone looking like my picture, you can remove the "captain" (orange tape), unlatch the LCD flex from the top, remove the button flex from its connector, then loosen the bottom logic board from the frame just enough to pull the flex out of the connector.
I hope that makes sense! It probably helps to know that a very strong double-sided sticky tape is all that holds the LCD+digitizer assembly to the frame, and there is only one flex cable connecting LCD+digitizer assembly to the rest of the phone.
GnatGoSplat said:
Nope, I didn't disconnect anything except the circled connector on the far right of your picture. You will need to do that to remove the LCD flex cable from the logic board.
I've attached a pic of the LCD module loosened from the frame. What you do is use something thin and flat to separate the adhesive tape holding the LCD to the frame. You will need to lift some of that black fabric tape on the edge to see where the LCD module meets the frame. Near the top, you will probably have to slide your separating tool all the way through to separate the tape (I used a scrap credit card). Avoid the area where the LCD flex cable is, because you could damage it! It's on the lower right of the LCD if you are looking from the front. When the LCD is loose, lift up from left to right (when LCD is facing you), pretending that there is a hinge on the right side. This is because you don't want to put any force on the LCD flex.
Once you've got your phone looking like my picture, you can remove the "captain" (orange tape), unlatch the LCD flex from the top, remove the button flex from its connector, then loosen the bottom logic board from the frame just enough to pull the flex out of the connector.
I hope that makes sense! It probably helps to know that a very strong double-sided sticky tape is all that holds the LCD+digitizer assembly to the frame, and there is only one flex cable connecting LCD+digitizer assembly to the rest of the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome I will try it now, I do need to heat the screen some for the tape to get sticky so I can pry it off right?? and I am guessing once you have removed that tape you can't "just stick it back on together and it will work right?? right??
Heronization said:
Awesome I will try it now, I do need to heat the screen some for the tape to get sticky so I can pry it off right?? and I am guessing once you have removed that tape you can't "just stick it back on together and it will work right?? right??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could try heating; I didn't, but maybe it will come apart easier if you do. In the HTC factory service video, they mentioned putting the whole phone into the oven to loosen the tape. I didn't know if it would be a good idea to do that complete with all the circuit boards or not.
No, without heat, the tape is definitely ruined and I will need to replace it. I was planning to use some leftover tape I have from fixing iPhone digitizers so I didn't even attempt to salvage the existing tape. Not sure if it's even possible to salvage that tape considering you need to stick some kind of tool in there to separate it.
GnatGoSplat said:
You could try heating; I didn't, but maybe it will come apart easier if you do. In the HTC factory service video, they mentioned putting the whole phone into the oven to loosen the tape. I didn't know if it would be a good idea to do that complete with all the circuit boards or not.
No, without heat, the tape is definitely ruined and I will need to replace it. I was planning to use some leftover tape I have from fixing iPhone digitizers so I didn't even attempt to salvage the existing tape. Not sure if it's even possible to salvage that tape considering you need to stick some kind of tool in there to separate it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright thanks I have to go and don't know when I'll be back, but I will try it tonight and hopefully I don't break anything...
Thanks for the help!
Hey All,
The other night my phone back glass panel shattered while inside my pocket. I'm not sure when/how it happened. Now, I have a solid red light when charging and the phone will not turn on. I've tried various combinations of holding power + volume down, but to no avail.
I've got a ton of pictures and some saved games data I'm trying to get off the phone. Is there any way to do this?
Also, I called google and they are sending me a new one, but I didn't mention the broken glass. Do you think this will be an issue? I've also had it rooted for about 1 month now.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
BNCole said:
Hey All,
The other night my phone back glass panel shattered while inside my pocket. I'm not sure when/how it happened. Now, I have a solid red light when charging and the phone will not turn on. I've tried various combinations of holding power + volume down, but to no avail.
I've got a ton of pictures and some saved games data I'm trying to get off the phone. Is there any way to do this?
Also, I called google and they are sending me a new one, but I didn't mention the broken glass. Do you think this will be an issue? I've also had it rooted for about 1 month now.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You will need to open the back cover and unscrew the two screw pins that are holding the battery. Flip the plate over and put it back in and screw them back together. You will need a T5 torque screwdriver and small philip screwdriver. The phone should power on now.
scream4cheese said:
You will need to open the back cover and unscrew the two screw pins that are holding the battery. Flip the plate over and put it back in and screw them back together. You will need a T5 torque screwdriver and small philip screwdriver. The phone should power on now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Arg, T5 of course! I've got a T6. I just ordered a set on Amazon and it should come Tuesday. I'll let you know how it works out!
Thanks for your help.
BNCole said:
Arg, T5 of course! I've got a T6. I just ordered a set on Amazon and it should come Tuesday. I'll let you know how it works out!
Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So do you still have to return the phone for the replacement? LOL
scream4cheese said:
So do you still have to return the phone for the replacement? LOL
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I'm not really sure. If I fix it myself... they might not take it. But I really want those pics off so I'm going to give it a shot anyhow.
BNCole said:
Yeah, I'm not really sure. If I fix it myself... they might not take it. But I really want those pics off so I'm going to give it a shot anyhow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try this video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZDAIgwbXk4
I don't see any reason why they shouldn't charge you for the second phone: the screen on the first shattered - mechanical damage, it has been opened - this is not allowed. All these will leave you without warranty.
fatum2002 said:
I don't see any reason why they shouldn't charge you for the second phone: the screen on the first shattered - mechanical damage, it has been opened - this is not allowed. All these will leave you without warranty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The black glass shattered while it was in my pocket. The screen is fine. It sounds like a manufacturers defect to me.
BNCole said:
The black glass shattered while it was in my pocket. The screen is fine. It sounds like a manufacturers defect to me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im sure once they see the shattered glass they'll charge you for the replacement..should of told them from the begining what happened and atleast tried to explain. :/
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda premium
drmclove69 said:
Im sure once they see the shattered glass they'll charge you for the replacement..should of told them from the begining what happened and atleast tried to explain. :/
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh I did. The lady said broken glass voided the warranty. So I hung up and called back and just didn't mention it.
I don't get it, whats the warranty good for if shattered glass voids the warranty?...
the whole phone is practically a glass statue.
Nirkon said:
I don't get it, whats the warranty good for if shattered glass voids the warranty?...
the whole phone is practically a glass statue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly. The glass breaking randomly should be covered by the warranty, since it's the damn problem. They even updated the design to include nubs on the bottom of newer models to prevent the glass from touching any surfaces 100% flat.
I had to order some plastic tools to open the case. They should come tomorrow. The new phone hasn't came either, ordered Friday night.
BNCole said:
The black glass shattered while it was in my pocket. The screen is fine. It sounds like a manufacturers defect to me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it may be a manufacturers defect, but the fact the device is going to be tampered with, and opened up; at least from a business standpoint, they shouldnt have to replace it. i hope it all works out for you, but on their end, giving you the refund/replacement would be questionable business practice. they lose money from it but gain customer satisfaction... tough call lol.
Update:
My pry tools came into today and I was able to remove the back. I then removed 1 battery screw and I cannot remove the second one. It is so ridiculously tight that it started to strip the screw. I switched to a flat head that fit exactly and the screw bent the flat head. (cheap metal i guess)
So my plan now is to go to the hardware store and get a brand name 1.0 precision flat head which will hopefully work. If that doesn't work I think I have a small enough drill head to drill the screw out.
One problem after another... this phone is really pissing me off.
Any ideas? I've tried the rubber band method and it's just too small to work.
draikz said:
Any ideas? I've tried the rubber band method and it's just too small to work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
DO NOT TRY THIS
I too stripped one of the screws on the battery connector when I was replacing my phone's broken screen recently. It was two in the morning, and I had already spent two hours trying to disassemble the phone, with the majority of the time spent trying every method I knew to loosen the stripped screw. I was losing my patience. Finally, driven by frustration and exhaustion, I just said "**** it", and with my fingers I pried the connector off along with one of the mounting bosses by force. I was lucky because the mounting boss got ripped off of the PCB cleanly, with only a small bit of the PCB surface separated. No circuitry was damaged. I fixed my screen and now the phone functions perfectly without any loose parts. What's great about this is if I ever need to remove the battery again, there's one fewer screw to remove :victory:
I really shouldn't be allowed near electronics repair.
DO NOT TRY THIS
I personally would try slowly filing down both sides of the screw so I could get a fix with some appliers or a small spanner. Never tried this though and only a suggestion !.
Phone : Nexus 4 /Rom : cataclysm / Kernel : Stock.
bladebuddy said:
I personally would try slowly filing down both sides of the screw so I could get a fix with some appliers or a small spanner. Never tried this though and only a suggestion !.
Phone : Nexus 4 /Rom : cataclysm / Kernel : Stock.
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If there isn't enough screw head to grip on for that to work, you can also try taking a razor and cutting a slot into the head so you can apply a flat screwdriver. Another option is to super glue/solder the tip of a screwdriver to the screw then apply torque, but it might be hard to get enough bonding strength on such a small surface.
if you can solder, try soldering an allen wrench or something similar directly to the screw. you might not be able to get the solder off once the screws our but at least it might be able to remove it.
Solder won't stick to the screw. Welding or brazing is out too. I would try filing a slot and using a flathead screw driver as mentioned earlier. I would then try the super glue trick also mentioned earlier. Good luck, small screws are a pain. I deal with broken screws and bolts all the time. Patience is key. Don't rush it.
Sent from my underpriced, overpowered pocket thingy.
They make a special stripped screw extractor bit for a hand drill. Can get them at any hardware store. I use them all the time at work and they work magically.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
draikz said:
Any ideas? I've tried the rubber band method and it's just too small to work.
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So how did you get it out ??? I have the same problem. I was thinking of using my fingers like someone mentioned but I still have a lil patience left in me
draikz said:
Any ideas? I've tried the rubber band method and it's just too small to work.
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Hi!!! I have the same problem and would like to know how did you solve it?
Thanks so much
yes i have the same problem. how did you end up solving it the thread says solved.
dominiqueovalle said:
yes i have the same problem. how did you end up solving it the thread says solved.
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Well if its little stripped try 3 size bigger screwdrive. Worked for me!!! And don't screw back so hard.
Epoxy or epoxy putty.
You can use either to attach a disposable screwdriver to the screw in question. Let either set for at least an hour.
You may need to rough up both surfaces a bit to get a good bond.
Phillips head screws and drivers are made to cam out so you don't strip the head. Either you're using the wrong size screwdriver or a worn tip. Go slow. Take your time.
Not that you'd be using a drill/driver but you see the same thing happen when the speed is too high and not enough torque. The bit ends up spinning in the head wearing away the slots.
Use hammer and one screwdriver to revert the screw. That isn''t a joke a tried this metod and work .