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Hi Guys,
I've been searching but couldn't find info on this head unit. It looks like they upgraded the screen to 7" 1024x600 on an older dual core 1.6Ghz RK3066 to make a universal 2DIN unit. It seems to be a recently released model, looks like a nice unit for a good value.
Does anyone have this HU or know about it? Hotaudio seems to be the original manufacturer, is there a better known clone of this unit?
All I can find searching for "Hotaudio 2100" are some posts on a Russian forum:
https://www.drive2.ru/l/7069581/
https://www.drive2.ru/l/7031068/
They're on Aliexpress and Ebay:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Dual...ole-size-176mm-101mm-No-disc/32342857044.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1024-600-An...mm-176mm-7-inch-navi-radio-wifi-/251948090321
Any info or ideas?
Hi. This Hotaudio RK3066 - 1024X600 HU is considered a HuiFei type, so check out the thread below for more info:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2660662
Here's another thread on this specific HA HU that could help too:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/and...in-s07-android-4-4-using-rk3066-root-t3155372
Also, below's a link to Malaysk's Custom Rk3066 - 1024X600 ROM Images that have worked well for me with this HU:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=58249825&postcount=7614
And here's a link the MCU images for BN-HA RK3066 / RK3188 specific models:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=61291848&postcount=14139
My opinion of this HA HU is that it's inexpensively made and not perfect. For example, I had to relocate the WiFi antenna out the back, as the factory location inside of the unit created a very weak signal. To clarify, moving the antenna lead out the back of the unit increased throughput up and down by at least 10x + on my unit. Moreover, my HA HU also has an input switching issue with my vehicle's factory amp that creates a single loud popping sound through the speakers when switching from music to radio inputs or when turning the vehicle off. That said, this issue was not present at all with a prior Winmark Android HU in the same vehicle. I even installed a RCA ground loop isolator - noise filter and made sure the ground was to chassis, but the input switching loud single popping sound is still a problem with this HU. I'm guessing it's an issue with how crudely this HU the switches power, which is unlike the soft power switch and volume ramp up of my last Android HU.
Another issue with many of these Android type head units including this one is the boot up time. It's at least 20-30 seconds, but you can set the HU shut down time delay up to two hours. Still, it's not equal to having an any time almost instant on HU like my last one.
All the above said, this HU is decent if you can find it for around $200 US, but I'd recommend going with something of higher quality if cost is not a big concern, or at the least look for one of these units or similar ones with the quad core RK3188 processor and good support.
Bottom line is that these units are inexpensively made IMHO, but they can be fun to work with; thanks to Malaysk and all the excellent XDA developers and contributors. Plus, I still have not found any higher quality brand names to date that run pure android, OBD2, and have as many other app options available.
Best to all,
R
Thanks a lot for your informative post rhacy.
My unit just came in and I was wondering if this was the WiFi antenna you relocated out the back?
There seems to be an adhesive copper antenna tab taped to the inside of the chassis near the screen at the front of the unit. If you route it out the back wouldn't it put the antenna further away from the seats where you'd want the stronger WiFi signal? Was the stock placement of your antenna the same way?
Your previous Winmark HU with the instant boot up time was a Windows CE unit with Android running in a VM, or was it pure Android? I've seen the option in xdAuto firmware for the Carpad HUs to set sleep delay for 1day, 2days so it will instantly boot as long you drive every few days. I wonder if we can do that on these HuiFei units somehow?
I've seen mention in the changelog of an adapter that addresses factory amp pop by introducing a delay before switching the input, at least during turn-on. Maybe using an adapter like this might address the issue?
http://www.pac-audio.com/firmware/RP/RP4-CH11.html
Release Notes for RP firmware
2/13/2015 Rev 1.5.4.4:
Adds Fusion
Separates Sony & Pioneer
Adds Alpine VR command
Factory amp turn-on delay slightly longer to avoid turn-on pop
Fixes LED problem without proper radio selection
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have Steering Wheel Controls working with your unit? Does your vehicle have resistive controls or canbus?
I'm going to hook mine up to power and test it out, will report any issues to this thread. Anyone who has one of these Hotaudio model 2100 please post your experience.
Hi rcll,
Your more than welcome and thank you for the heads up and link for an adapter that addresses factory amp pop by introducing a delay before switching the inputs, at least at amp turn on. Cheers!
Here's a link to one I found on ebay that looks like it may work in some instances:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAC-TR-4-Ca...gger-Module-/191226517960?hash=item2c85fd19c8
Moreover, I'll do some more research and try to find an adapter that can sense any input switch and soft switch the amp. Well... I will if the new Android HU I just purchased has the same single loud popping sound when switching inputs or turning off. The new HU is a Joying JY-UQ124 Quad Core RK3188 1024*600 16GB 2 DIN system. It was purchased because I missed having an actual volume knob and wanted to upgrade to a quad core as well as see if it would fix the loud single pop sound issue.
Please note that I have emailed Hotaudio multiple times over the last month or so about the loud single pop sound issue when switching audio inputs etc., and Summer has stated that they are working on the problem and will send me a fix if and when they figure it out.
Also, if it helps at all, the Hotaudio HU is installed currently in a 2003 Mitsubishi Montero Limited with the factory infinity amp, 6 speakers, and a Polk sub-woofer. It's a non CANbus and non SWC SUV. As I mentioned in my previous post, there were zero single loud popping noise issues with the Winmark Android HU that I installed in the Montero prior this HA HU. The Winmark has a gentle audio input switching and a nice soft volume ramp up on any input including the radio. It was listed as a Pure Android Single DIN HU with the pop out 7" 1024x600 display and it has worked well. I only replaced it because I did not like how far it stuck out of the dash even with the display in. Plus, the display had to pop out in order for me to see my reverse camera or access my nav apps and that got old real fast. Also, I was concerned that the display motor or its ribbon cable would fail eventually.
Here's a link to Winmark Pure Android 4.1 Single DIN HU:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Pure-Android-4-1-universal-1_60150935774.html
To clarify further, the Winmark Pure Android HU is instant on when using the android music player or radio, but it does take 10 seconds for the display to pop out and up. That said, I'm guessing that there must be a sleep or standby mode for the Mstar system that Rockchip does not deploy. Plus, I know for sure that the Mstar system does not need to boot up even when the Montero has sat for days or weeks without use.
In regard to the Hotaudio WiFi Antenna, yes, mine was in the exact same spot originally. However, mine did not come with an adhesive copper antenna tab at the end of the antenna lead on the side of the case. It was just soldered to the inside sidewall of case. Your unit may perform better with the copper tab, although, I think there will still be more interference due to the antenna lead being inside the case. On mine, the difference between the factory mounting location and the lead being routed out the back (through the rear mounting bracket hole and then attached to center upper rear housing screw) has been a massive improvement in both signal strength and throughput. If I was not pressed for time during the antenna fix, I would have taken pictures as well as mounted a RP-SMA Antenna on the back housing like the one in the link below.
2.4G 2.5dBI Wireless RP-SMA Antenna with Extension Cord Cheap hot sale
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171505160014?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Further, I did ask Hotaudio for help with the ridiculously weak wifi signal and directly related low throughput issue, but they only suggested using a USB WiFi adapter instead of the internal WiFi radio. D'oh! And even then, there was no information on which adapter would work, or how to set it up, where to get the drivers, or where to get it. In turn, I pulled the HU, relocated the antenna lead, and tried to explain to them the poor factory antenna location problem. This was more than a month ago, so hopefully they are doing a better job on new units. Please note, my Winmark HU has the WiFi antenna routed out the back and it works great. Also, the forthcoming Joying HU routes the antenna out the back too, so hopefully it will work great as well. Anyway, if you're bench testing your HU prior to install, you can at least test the signal strength and throughput and compare it to your phone etc., and then decide if you need to reroute or not. Although, if you like to connect to home or work WiFi networks, I'd recommend relocating and upgrading the antenna.
Yikes... my apologies for type rambling...
Best to all,
R
rhacy said:
My opinion of this HA HU is that it's cheaply made and far from perfect. For example, I had to relocate the WiFi antenna out the back, as the factory location inside of the unit was poorly designed to save a few cents per unit. To clarify, moving the antenna lead out the back of the unit increased throughput up and down by 10x + on my unit. Moreover, my HA HU also has an input switching issue with my vehicle's factory amp that creates a single loud popping sound through the speakers when switching from music to radio inputs or when turning the vehicle off. That said, this issue was not present at all with a prior Winmark Android HU in the same vehicle. I even installed a RCA ground loop isolator - noise filter and made sure the ground was to chassis, but the input switching loud single popping sound is still a problem with this HU. I'm guessing it's an issue with how crudely this HU the switches power, which is unlike the soft power switch and volume ramp up of my last Android HU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you ever solve the popping sound before you switched to the Joying? This is my second HotAudio unit, my first one had a power issue. They sent me a new one at no cost, but this has the speaker popping as you described. My first one did not have this issue. And no word from Summer yet. I really don't want to go through the hassle of shipping this one back and waiting another 2 weeks for a new one. Frustrating.
vdubskey said:
Did you ever solve the popping sound before you switched to the Joying? This is my second HotAudio unit, my first one had a power issue. They sent me a new one at no cost, but this has the speaker popping as you described. My first one did not have this issue. And no word from Summer yet. I really don't want to go through the hassle of shipping this one back and waiting another 2 weeks for a new one. Frustrating.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi vdubskey,
No... I haven't solved the Hotaudio single loud popping sound when switching audio inputs or turning off yet. On an encouraging note, Summer sent me a link to new ROM and MCU images yesterday should fix the single loud audio popping sound. I'm guessing the fix is in updated MCU audio switching assembly code, but I've already installed the Joying HU and it's been working great for the most part. To clarify, out of the box the Joying HU has zero audio pop issues, decent WiFi throughput, and is obviously faster due to the quad core. The only issue with it so far is low mic volume and some background buzzing noise for the person on the receiving end of my Bluetooth paired phone calls. D'oh! There always seems to be some issue with these head units.
Anyway, if Summer has not sent you the download link to the New4_rk3066_h(20150831) ROM & MCU images yet, you can pm me for the link. Please note that I'm going to email Summer and will post the link and password here if she gives me permission to do so.
Best to all,
R
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
butthead123 said:
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this same HU and it has been nothing short of perfect for me. Try and update the MCU to the new (20150831) HA file and then put in Malaysk's ROM. The popping sound should be MCU related not ROM so you shouldn't have any problems.
I personally haven't updated my MCU yet so I still have that popping sounds, only the ROM to Malaysk's Aug24-2015 and it's running flawless. I bearly notice the pop anyways.
butthead123 said:
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great news. She just sent me a link with a firmware date of 09/09/2015 so hopefully it fixes it. Yea I appreciate all the work Malaysk has done but all of the UI changes done are not to my taste. The stock firmware looks much better IMO. I just extract the stock firmware images and rebuild with the modded apps I use and use then flash and apply *#hct#root# to root and install xposed and get the same experience with the same look as stock. Works for me [emoji6]
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Summer at Hotaudio has given me permission to post the links below that should fix the single loud audio pop when switching inputs or when turning off.
Please note that these ROM Firmware images should be for 1024x600 Hotaudio Dual Core RK3066 & Quad Core RK3188 Head Units, but I haven't testing them yet, so use at your own risk.
Hotaudio Rockchip RK3066 8-31-15 ROM Firmware & MCU Images:
http://yunpan.cn/cm4nU7wHDzcuA password:2782
Hotaudio Rockchip RK3188 9-8-15 ROM Firmware & MCU Images:
http://yunpan.cn/cmtZjSvdtbqqv password:6389
Thanks in advance for any feedback.
R
Yup that's the firmware I downloaded, the 9/8/15 one. I upgraded to a quadcore SOM for this radio. I'll try the MCU image first and see if it solves my problem and then the UPDATE image if I need to. Should get these posted to the HuiFei file server as well. At least the MCU files anyways.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
vdubskey said:
Yup that's the firmware I downloaded, the 9/8/15 one. I upgraded to a quadcore SOM for this radio. I'll try the MCU image first and see if it solves my problem and then the UPDATE image if I need to. Should get these posted to the HuiFei file server as well. At least the MCU files anyways.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! Please let us know if the single loud audio pop goes away or not. Also, once you flash the MCU, could you post the MCU version number for the new RK3188 MCU from your Settings - about section?
Moreover, once I know the both the new HA RK3066 and RK3188 MCU version numbers, I'll see if I or someone can post them to the HuiFei and mega.nz file servers - ( https://mega.nz/#F!KMZnXTJC!zDFMlP4qgxEE6vQxt8rrrw ), or if you do, please let us know.
Thanks again.
R
The MCU that was included in the 3188 download is v2.73. And that is what my system already had prior. I am still getting the pop randomly when switching music and radio apps. Although I haven't got the pop on boot or shutdown yet except a very tiny one that might have been related to something else. I'll have to do some more testing.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Hey guys, I am a total noob when it comes to dealing with these android head units. I am wondering if anyone can tell me if there is any way to have music (I.e. Mp3, radio, or other sources) to play continually, or at least while I am in the Nav app. Riding in silence just to use the Nav is not cool....
vdubskey said:
The MCU that was included in the 3188 download is v2.73. And that is what my system already had prior. I am still getting the pop randomly when switching music and radio apps. Although I haven't got the pop on boot or shutdown yet except a very tiny one that might have been related to something else. I'll have to do some more testing.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yikes! I updated to MCU 2.73 on my HA rk3066 about month ago and still had the single loud audio pop when switching inputs or turning off. Regardless, thanks for posting the MCU version. It's probably a waste of time, but I'll bench flash the MCU included with latest rk3066 ROM from Summer to see if it's newer than 2.73.
Bigjoe1025 said:
Hey guys, I am a total noob when it comes to dealing with these android head units. I am wondering if anyone can tell me if there is any way to have music (I.e. Mp3, radio, or other sources) to play continually, or at least while I am in the Nav app. Riding in silence just to use the Nav is not cool....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try going into Settings > GPS and selecting Mixing. There, you can also adjust the volume settings between your music and gps voice directions. Please note that this GPS volume setting may not work if you're using a GPS app with text to speech street names.
Hope this helps...
Best to all,
R
butthead123 said:
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey can you post the version number of the MCU that took the pop away. Also the firmware date? Is your unit a dual core or quadcore. Thanks.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Update: I went ahead and flashed the update.img after the MCU.img had no effect and it has resolved the speaker popping. So it turns out the even tho the MCU probably does handle the input switching, it must have been how the OS handled the execution. No facts to back that up but just my opinion. Now I have to mod this version all over again and setup my apps but oh well.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
vdubskey said:
Update: I went ahead and flashed the update.img after the MCU.img had no effect and it has resolved the speaker popping. So it turns out the even tho the MCU probably does handle the input switching, it must have been how the OS handled the execution. No facts to back that up but just my opinion. Now I have to mod this version all over again and setup my apps but oh well.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for posting that the latest Update Image from Summer at Hotaudio fixes the audio pop. I did bench load the included MCU for the HA rk3066. Unfortunately, it was version 2.60, so I knew it would not help. Thanks again for verifying the fix is the new firmware.
Cheers,
R
Another update: So the newest firmware fixes the pop when switching from radio to music and vice versa perfectly. Haven't had a pop yet. But I'm still getting a random pop here and there on ignition off. So I think I'm going to going to wire my DCDC-USB power supply in-between the unit and the battery so I can use the power off delay function to make sure my amp is powered off before the unit so I don't get the pop. Hopefully it works out.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Does anyone know how to get into recovery mode? This model doesn't have physical buttons but it still has the reset button. I tried going from maylask's to the original img. After flashing, it never booted successfully and now I'm stuck on the android logo screen. Any pointers ?
Please bear with me as im relatively new to all this, and just posted in the wrong forum. Sorry.
Ive got a unbranded chinese head unit, was working ok for two days, but then decided to boot to the blue wizzy android logo and no further. was running kk 4.4 as supplied. no upgrading or anything has been going on, just fitted to van and thats it. no fiddling!
Ive been trying all sorts of methods to get into recovery mode, as i assume this is what i need to do, but nothing works.
retailer is not helping and has refused a refund, Paypal also say im outside the 30 days cover offered, regardless of the fact i alerted the seller to the problems 3 days after i received the goods.
make and model are unknown.
here is a link the the unit.
ebay.co.uk/itm/141745211290?euid=f7c885aa6eed45d0a992a3f423a4cb9d &cp=1
Please, help.
Kind regards,
Phil
Ive now stripped the unit down.
the daughter board plugged into the main board is labelled as zx803 with a Allwinner A20 proc fitted.
*bump*
*bump*
Friends please help. I installed a headunit i bought from amazon
10.1 Inch 1024*600 Resolution HD Capacitive Multi-touch Screen,Pure run most recent, stable version, Android 4.4.4 kitkat OS; CPU: RK3188 1.6GHz Cortex A9 Quad Core
after installation, everything worked fine, then i went ahead to screw in all the screws and put the dash back, and I get a square and exclamation mark
the weird thing is that my phone does connect to the headunit via bluetooth
and when i go to shut down the car, i can see the homescreen and a popup box saying its shutting down.
mr_achtung I had a similar experience a couple of years ago with an older 2.3.4 (I think) unit. Went to great lengths to cut up the dash in my truck and squeeze this baby in--same case anyway as yours. It worked great for about 2 weeks and then without warning, it won't boot up (I just get a white screen) and can't figure out how to reset, enter recovery mode, reflash firmware etc.
I asked for help in here too and never got any response--I check back every few months. Sorry I can't actually help, but maybe it will be nice to know that your bad experience has made me feel better.
Try this
kenjiloc5 said:
Friends please help. I installed a headunit i bought from amazon
10.1 Inch 1024*600 Resolution HD Capacitive Multi-touch Screen,Pure run most recent, stable version, Android 4.4.4 kitkat OS; CPU: RK3188 1.6GHz Cortex A9 Quad Core
after installation, everything worked fine, then i went ahead to screw in all the screws and put the dash back, and I get a square and exclamation mark
the weird thing is that my phone does connect to the headunit via bluetooth
and when i go to shut down the car, i can see the homescreen and a popup box saying its shutting down.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I noticed on the Joying website blog that if the screws are tightened too much it can pinch some wires and cause the unit to not work. That's the gist of what they say, as it it difficult to understand the broken English. You might try loosen the screws or taking them out entirely and see if it works. If it does, just space them out with some washers to keep them from extending too far into the case. They use the term " screws from both sides of the car" but I'm sure that's what they mean.
kenjiloc5 said:
Friends please help. I installed a headunit i bought from amazon
10.1 Inch 1024*600 Resolution HD Capacitive Multi-touch Screen,Pure run most recent, stable version, Android 4.4.4 kitkat OS; CPU: RK3188 1.6GHz Cortex A9 Quad Core
after installation, everything worked fine, then i went ahead to screw in all the screws and put the dash back, and I get a square and exclamation mark
the weird thing is that my phone does connect to the headunit via bluetooth
and when i go to shut down the car, i can see the homescreen and a popup box saying its shutting down.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
having same sort of problems with my unit, same chip set RK3188 and OS 4.4.4
when i do get it to power up after a while get desk top and a popup box saying its shutting down, after many attempts to reload the firmware, with the same problems, i come to the conclusion it's knackered.
will find out soon from suppler and factory if i have a nice door stop..
So I bought -what I believe- is this Android Head Unit over a month back (Apparently I can't post links yet, but if you search Amazon for "Car Stereo Touch Screen Bluetooth GPS DVD Double Din In Dash Sat Navigation Vehicle Head Unit for VW Volkswagen Jetta Golf Passat Tiguan T5 VW Skoda Seat Hands Free Call Free Map Backup Camera" the result is the item that I got. ) It worked fine once I got it installed, then about a week ago it started having issues (Screen would freeze, buttons unresponsive, and would stay like this until car had been off for some time. Still switched to backup camera on reverse.) I tried to go into settings and do a factory reset to see if that would fix the issue, but now it's stuck with a black screen and the word "Erasing". It still seems to be doing something because overnight the next time I come out the screen is on and it says, "Recovery 7.1.1 :failed to mount /cache (invalid argument)" I've tried several different button pressing methods to try and get to the recovery screen, but it just keeps coming back to the "Erasing" screen regardless of whether I use the Reset button or the Power button (held). I have a couple pictures of settings from the "Droid Info" app (because I couldn't find anything helpful in the settings themselves) that I took before I started having problems with it. So I'm looking for some help regarding getting it into recovery and/or finding out what I'm doing wrong.
Brand is confusing, roundabout on Amazon I found "Malanzs", but it looks exactly like and has the same Manufacturer # as the TMOTEC brand (DS02P051S01C0) and a lot of the pictures of the Malanzs one look like they photoshopped them from the TMOTEC pictures.
One of the things I was trying to find on my pictures but I don't have is the MCU version (apparently this is important for where I will get the most help with my post)
Any help is appreciated, thanks for your time.
I can't help get it working (it sounds defective), personally I'd return it to Amazon quick !
MrGubby said:
I can't help get it working (it sounds defective), personally I'd return it to Amazon quick !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the response, I'm in communication with the seller to try and get it returned, but as it's been longer than a month, it's outside of Amazon's return period. I was just hoping to possibly find a solution here.
im not sure the region in which u live ...
but sounds like it possibly overheated ...
and something fried,
ive a px3 rockchip 7.1 hizpo (for ford fusion/f150/exploders)
had it bout idk 8 months, put in some nice sundown 12's in my trunk w/a 40k orion amp and between that and summer in full swing early, im drawling alot of heat, and the same things happenin to mine...
seems over 96 degrees the unit just shats on it self...
the heads still on but android system(ui) crashes...
imma try these few idears while i wait for my px5 upgrade to get here from ebay...
other then this fabricating trick,
im outta suggestions... ive tried everything to get it too
function correctly, even sit in a ice box ova ac just to keep it cool...
anyways ...
these were for px5 but hw as i understand is same under the hood...
:good:
https://youtu.be/k4HYcKsszsg
https://youtu.be/C-s2FN3VeAc
Hi,
There's an issue that has been mildly bugging me since I have had my Android Head Unit. Just wondering if I'm the only one or if this is a known issue.
Sometime when starting the car and the Head Unit powers up, the bluetooth and Wifi radios are not working. My phone cannot connect via bluetooth and the Wifi activation slider in the Wifi Setting menu will not move to the "activated" position.
Usually, a full system restart fixes the issue but I've had occurence where a second reboot in a row is necessary!
This has been going since I have had the unit. I didn't stay on stock ROM for long as I moved to Malaysk first and now using Hal9k ROM. Both ROMs exhibit the same issue. Point is I don't know if the stock ROM had this issue.
Head Unit is equipped with a MD725 version 1 radio module.
Does somebody have a workaround (other than rebooting)?
Thanks!
EDIT: Please check this post for a detailed explanation of the cause of the problem, the resolution process and finally provides fixes for it.
psyko_chewbacca said:
Hi,
There's an issue that has been mildly bugging me since I have had my Android Head Unit. Just wondering if I'm the only one or if this is a known issue.
Sometime when starting the car and the Head Unit powers up, the bluetooth and Wifi radios are not working. My phone cannot connect via bluetooth and the Wifi activation slider in the Wifi Setting menu will not move to the "activated" position.
Usually, a full system restart fixes the issue but I've had occurence where a second reboot in a row is necessary!
This has been going since I have had the unit. I didn't stay on stock ROM for long as I moved to Malaysk first and now using Hal9k ROM. Both ROMs exhibit the same issue. Point is I don't know if the stock ROM had this issue.
Head Unit is equipped with a MD725 version 1 radio module.
Does somebody have a workaround (other than rebooting)?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How disappointing to see that no one has replied. I purchased a Seicane unit from an Amazon seller two weeks ago, and among the things I noticed immediately was the frequent, seemingly random WIFI/BT disconnect. As you described, it happens when waking up. Either pressing the reset button or holding the power button for >5 seconds has returned their functionality every time (so far). But, in corresponding with Seicane, they act like it's the first time they've heard of it. They want to replace the WIFI module. But, I'm sure that'll take weeks, and by the time it gets here, I'm outside the return window with Amazon.
I'm fully stock, and I really like the fit and finish in my Tundra.
Can I thread-jack and ask you some questions to see if you have other issues like me?
- Google account sync is missing calendar (and chrome too, for that matter). That means any calendar app (stock or 3rd party) cannot access events. Do you see calendar under settings/accounts/google/sync?
- Side-loading apks is a no-go. Whether I use file manager, or the default "Apk-installer", when I try to install an APK (even OEM legit ones on the internal memory), I get a momentary flash of "package install.." then right back to the file list. Seicane doesn't seem to understand the issue, even after I sent them a video of how it's behaving.
- Fader is not working. I do have left/right, but when I move fader to rear, everything goes quiet. It seems front and rear are combined, because full front has sound coming from all speakers. That's not a deal breaker since I generally listen to podcasts, and not music.
Just knowing there's someone else out there with similar issue(s) is comforting.
Seicane = Bad Customer Service, No Support after they have your money
I purchased a Seicane Nav/Radio Unit back in June 2018, and from day 1 the Parrot Bluetooth module I paid extra for has never worked. Did everything recommended, used their BT apk, tried setting up via Phone apk, changed name of BT module, change passcode to 0000, 1234, 01234, but it never saw my BT enable Phone or Tablet that was within 2 foot of the Head Unit, nor did my phone or tablet ever see the Head Unit.
I have been going back and forth with Seicane, and after 3 months got them to send me a replacement BT Module. They shipped me an unmarked module that does not even look like its Bluetooth other than the 10 pins at the bottom of it for mounting. Oh, no instructions, no explanations, nor did they tell me the Head Unit needed to be COMPLETELY disassembled to get at the existing BT module. Once opened it was apparent that the module was soldered in requiring de-soldering of the old, and soldering in the new. Problem was while inspecting how to do this I found 3 SMD resistors on the main board that were damaged during manufacturing, so now I know why the BT never worked! I assume they knew it also, and that is why they sent me the replacement module knowing that if I opened the case, the factory warrantee was then void. So now they want me to spend $60 to ship the Head Unit back to them in China, and of course, they will void the warrantee and change me $60 to get it back.......NEVER AGAIN WITH SEICANE.................
Seicane:
CPU: 8 core 64-bit CPU Coretex-A53 @ 1.5G
Memory: 3891
Kernel Version: 4.4.93+ [email protected] #263 Wed May 9 09:36:56 CST 2018
Build Number: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 end.hct.20180515.095719 test-keys
MCU Version: MTCE_KLD_V2.80_1 Mar 1 2018 16:54:22
Model: px5(800x480)
Android version: 8.0.0
Android security patch level: October 5, 2017
I have similar problems, i thought that only the "XRC" units (MTCE_XRC_...) ones had the problem with WiFi and Bluetooth not working sometimes when you start.
From what i saw, a restart sometimes fixes it.
Somebody said that entering into recovery and then restarting seems to always fix the issue, but it's still annoying.
Until somebody finds a "real" solution, we're stuck with restarting the unit if the WiFi/BT doesn't work.
You could try using an USB adapter for the WiFi and Bluetooth, the ones i had (for my PC) didn't work, probably we need something designed for Android.
P.S. the problem is not from custom ROMs, it does the same with the ROM that it came with.
Well, that's not very promising. I initiated the refund/return process for mine with Amazon. I have about 10 days left before the return window closes. So glad I bought from AZ vs. AliExpress or directly from Seicane.
There's another seller of the PX5 (Hizpo) that is custom fit to my Tundra, but uses the button-less trim. I'm hoping that it doesn't have this issue.
On an aside, I figured out why my APKs wouldn't side-load. Under settings/car/factory defaults/other is a setting called "install apps" which was set to disabled. Switching it to enabled allowed me to install all my favorite 'patched' apks. Unfortunately, the intermittent wifi/BT is a deal breaker. I'm hoping Seicane can come up with a fix/workaround suggestion in the coming days - else, this one is getting picked up by the big brown truck.
verszipo said:
I have similar problems, i thought that only the "XRC" units (MTCE_XRC_...) ones had the problem with WiFi and Bluetooth not working sometimes when you start.
From what i saw, a restart sometimes fixes it.
Somebody said that entering into recovery and then restarting seems to always fix the issue, but it's still annoying.
Until somebody finds a "real" solution, we're stuck with restarting the unit if the WiFi/BT doesn't work.
You could try using an USB adapter for the WiFi and Bluetooth, the ones i had (for my PC) didn't work, probably we need something designed for Android.
P.S. the problem is not from custom ROMs, it does the same with the ROM that it came with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
psyko_chewbacca said:
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've got that Hizpo arriving on Wed. If it has the same issue running stock (as the Seicane XRC) does, then I'll be happy to give the WU725B adapter a go. I just wonder why there aren't more people complaining about this phenomenon given the popularity of the PX5 systems.
psyko_chewbacca said:
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be interested to know if this works. I found a thread where others have done that to fix BT call issues. Apparently it's not just plug and play in most cases.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ons-development/bluetooth-usb-dongle-t3684383
Same unit, different issues...
Hazard15301 said:
I'd be interested to know if this works. I found a thread where others have done that to fix BT call issues. Apparently it's not just plug and play in most cases.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ons-development/bluetooth-usb-dongle-t3684383
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I think I have the same unit - I too had issues with Bluetooth, but after a factory reset it seemed to behave itself. The only downside is the hardware buttons on the facia (its a merc slk 200 type facia) are now not working! navi, setup, BT, 1-6, power etc all not responding. I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to the hardware side of these android head units - am I missing some sort of interface APK that helps the hardware buttons talk to the android OS?
Sorry for thread jacking, but I'm starting to get a bad feeling - I purchased from seicane direclty and so far, the support feels like one guy doing it after he gats back from the factory...
For ref I took some pics and a video of the issue - any hints?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRrc69Qr3CpFaTq7A
I believe it MTCE_MX2_V2.94_1 on 8 core 64-bit coretex-A53 @ 1.5Ghz
px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007
xboson said:
Hi,
I think I have the same unit - I too had issues with Bluetooth, but after a factory reset it seemed to behave itself. The only downside is the hardware buttons on the facia (its a merc slk 200 type facia) are now not working! navi, setup, BT, 1-6, power etc all not responding. I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to the hardware side of these android head units - am I missing some sort of interface APK that helps the hardware buttons talk to the android OS?
Sorry for thread jacking, but I'm starting to get a bad feeling - I purchased from seicane direclty and so far, the support feels like one guy doing it after he gats back from the factory...
For ref I took some pics and a video of the issue - any hints?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRrc69Qr3CpFaTq7A
I believe it MTCE_MX2_V2.94_1 on 8 core 64-bit coretex-A53 @ 1.5Ghz
px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to go into the Factory Settings menu, under the Panel Key Study header and manually set all your physical buttons
Hazard15301 said:
You need to go into the Factory Settings menu, under the Panel Key Study header and manually set all your physical buttons
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Yep - tried that - a couple of times (factory settings code 126) - tried reset and panel key study - nothing appears on screen. Tried waiting a minute or two but no dice. I'll try again just to be sure and report back.
---------- Post added at 10:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:52 PM ----------
xboson said:
Hi,
Yep - tried that - a couple of times (factory settings code 126) - tried reset and panel key study - nothing appears on screen. Tried waiting a minute or two but no dice. I'll try again just to be sure and report back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep - so just tried that page again - waitied about a minute and a half - nothing showed up - blank page & no response to any hardware buttons on the facia - the canbus based steering wheel answer, hangup and volume controls work as expected. So it should just detect the hardware buttons no issue? No special apk needed?
erkme73 said:
I've got that Hizpo arriving on Wed. If it has the same issue running stock (as the Seicane XRC) does, then I'll be happy to give the WU725B adapter a go. I just wonder why there aren't more people complaining about this phenomenon given the popularity of the PX5 systems.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The new hizpo unit worked GREAT! No dropouts. Well, at least not for the first 10 min... After that the screen went dark. Resetting and power-cycling made it beep and the buttons illuminated green for about 2 seconds... But that was it.
I did an exchange through Amazon and the replacement arrived today. On power up, no wifi or BT. ARG. I did a power-cycle, and both came back. I went to vehicle several more times during they day/evening, and despite cold booting, wifi resumed each time. Fingers crossed, but I'm guessing it will disappoint me soon.
I sent a message to the seller asking for stock MCU and firmware images, but I'm sure that will be met with crickets.
Will update if anything changes.
That didn't take long. Got in truck this am to find no wifi. Took FOUR resets for it to finally wake the wifi/bt. Really frustrating. Took a video and sent it to the Amazon seller (JBY TECH) asking what I need to do to get a functioning unit. If I do another exchange it'll be the third unit. This sucks.
Wish I could get a non-XRC unit that fits my Sequoia.
Growing more frustrated and impatient by the day, I opted to remove the back of the radio (which leaves the factory warranty seal intact) to get a better view of the wifi/bt components. The thing is tiny - smaller than a postage stamp. It appears to be soldered directly to the main board at 8 points - though the ones on the left are hard to identify due to the hot-glue applied to the antenna wire connection point. These points are not surface-mount sized. A steady hand with a standard iron should be able to comfortably resolder these connections. I would attempt it if out of warranty and all other options have been exhausted.
I did push down on each joint before re-assembling the unit. After several power-cycles, WIFI/BT remain on. The acid test will be in the AM. I am reluctant to even post this now, as I don't want to jinx it. I will post updates as they happen.
erkme73 said:
Growing more frustrated and impatient by the day, I opted to remove the back of the radio (which leaves the factory warranty seal intact) to get a better view of the wifi/bt components. The thing is tiny - smaller than a postage stamp. It appears to be soldered directly to the main board at 8 points - though the ones on the left are hard to identify due to the hot-glue applied to the antenna wire connection point. These points are not surface-mount sized. A steady hand with a standard iron should be able to comfortably resolder these connections. I would attempt it if out of warranty and all other options have been exhausted.
I did push down on each joint before re-assembling the unit. After several power-cycles, WIFI/BT remain on. The acid test will be in the AM. I am reluctant to even post this now, as I don't want to jinx it. I will post updates as they happen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The seller of my radio thinks I have a bad chip as well. He's sending me a new chip, should be here monday. So I'll be doing this exact procedure when it gets here. I think someone else said there's ten total solder points, and two are real close together and very easy to short together.
I was wondering why it is that wifi and bt will remain functional across short term sleep cycles, but only seems to act up when left in sleep overnight (at least that's how it works in my case). Not sure if that points to a software or hardware issue.
Hazard15301 said:
The seller of my radio thinks I have a bad chip as well. He's sending me a new chip, should be here monday. So I'll be doing this exact procedure when it gets here. I think someone else said there's ten total solder points, and two are real close together and very easy to short together.
I was wondering why it is that wifi and bt will remain functional across short term sleep cycles, but only seems to act up when left in sleep overnight (at least that's how it works in my case). Not sure if that points to a software or hardware issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm no engineer, but if I unplug all wires from the back of the radio and leave it de-energized for an hour, I would think that any residual electrons would be gone - or at least comparable to an overnight connected shut down. The fact that it still works after that hour makes me think it's hardware.
The one variable that changes overnight is temperature. The unit cools down completely overnight, and by morning the symptoms return. I suppose I could take the radio and put it in the freezer/refrigerator for a few hours and see if recurs.
If it is temp, that would lend credence to poor electrical connections - with the most likely suspect being the hand-soldered points (not the SM-ed board components). Admittedly, it's a stretch.
If your seller has OK'ed the replacement of your board, if I were you, I'd practice with the old one and re-solder those 8-10 points.
I recall reading posts elsewhere stating that keeping pressure on that board resolved the issue (one guy wrote about using tape!).
I just received word from the seller that they suspect the "core board" to be the problem. They want me to open the case and unplug/replug it to see if that resolves it. I've attached their photo. If it does not solve the problem, they suggest replacing it, and they provided a link to the latest XRC firmware (XRC8.0_20180510). I'm downloading it now.
Looks like when daylight comes, I'll be doing some vendor-approved dissection...
New daylight, and with permission to disassemble, I managed to get a better picture of the wifi/bt module. Unless there are pins underneath the board, it really looks like 8 connections.
I removed the 'core board' and replaced it. No wifi/bt. After third power-cycle it came up.
I really think this is temperature-related. By the 2nd or 3rd reboot, the electronics have warmed up and it starts working. Now I have to wait until it gets back to ambient temp to do more testing. To prove this theory, I've placed it in my freezer. I'll give this a go in about 30 min. If it stop working again, I think that would be pretty conclusive. Will update as I proceed.
After leaving the unit in the freezer for 30 minutes, the wifi/bt once again stopped responding. In fact, it stayed off for about 5-10 minutes (regardless of the number of power-cycles/resets). I even held down on the wifi chip and it made no difference. Only after it had completely thawed out and warmed up did it re-enable.
I'm going to relay this back to the seller. FWIW, since they provided me with a factory rom and MCU image, I took this chance to install the Hal9k rom. WOW is that worth it...
erkme73 said:
I just received word from the seller that they suspect the "core board" to be the problem. They want me to open the case and unplug/replug it to see if that resolves it. I've attached their photo. If it does not solve the problem, they suggest replacing it, and they provided a link to the latest XRC firmware (XRC8.0_20180510). I'm downloading it now.
Looks like when daylight comes, I'll be doing some vendor-approved dissection...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you upload the MCU update image?
Interesting stuff about the temperature. Quite frankly I had this ruled out since rebooting through recovery fixes the issue 100% of the time while normal reboots only works sporadically. I was under the impression that the issue was related to the MCU or some other component not waking up the device from sleep when unit wakes up.
Hi everyone,
first of all, my apologizes in advance for duplicating the thread, but I've got the feeling that the original HERE is not in the right place, and therefore I've got 0 comments since open.
Therefore, I transcribe the problem here.
After buying an android head unit for the Fabia mk3 from my wife and testing it at my workshop, I got mad because the front panel buttons were not working. I was almost giving up when I decided to install the radio anyway just to profit from the navigation by forcing us to use it only by the touchscreen, when I found out that the front panel buttons get activated only when the head unit receives the can-bus signals.
However, some days after the installation and the happiness of solving the issue, big surprise when we found the car with the battery dead. o after bringing it back to life, I removed the android radio and checked the current drainage. It was around 300mA for the car switched off. Too much for a car that is parked so long due to the COVID-19 quarantine.
After asking Google, I found out that in the new VAGs, included the Fabia mk3, there is no longer a "switched-off" power cable arriving to the radio. Only an "always-on" one. It seems that the original radio is being switched off by the can-bus signal, bringing the current drainage to a minimum. What is this minimum, I do not know as I haven't measured it.
This doesn't seem to be the case with my android radio which is sucking 300mA when turned off by the can-bus.
So I looked for a "switched-off" signal from the fuse panel and I brought it all the way up to the radio to force the total current shut-off when switching off the car.
Happy with the solution, my wife takes the car again some days after and and told me that the radio was not starting. I went to check it and I found the unit getting blocked at the "android" starting screen.
Sometimes it ends up just blocked there. Sometimes shows an alternating picture between the word "android" and a kind of arrow picture. I share here a couple of screenshots and a small video.
I've tried the reset button, even with the 15 seconds wait, and nothing happens, I get the same blocked starting screen...
Any ideas what can this be? It looks pretty damn bricked to me but I refuse to give up with the radio, it looked very well installed in the car and I was able to "taste" the capabilities right before the battery drainage and it was even sounding better than the ****ty original radio.
Here the head-unit specs:
Android 9.0 System
Capacitive Screen HD 1024*600 1080P HD Video
CPU Rockchip PX3 Cortex A9, 4 core 1.6GHz
2GB DDR3 RAM Memory
16 GB Nand Flash