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Hi. I've solved the problem of using other chargers with GT.
Like Apple, Samsung used a little trick with their chargers.
To charge your GT with any usb charger you have to make a little adapter.
Usb pinout:
gnd d- d+ 5v
To work you must short d+ and d-.
From 5v use a 33k resistor to d+/d-.
From gnd use a 10k resistor to d+/d-.
If you have multimeter you should obtain ~4v between 5v and d+/d-; and ~1v between gnd and d+/d-.
I tested it and it's working.
Hi, it's not a trick but a standard. You only need to short d+ with d-, the resistors are not needed. Just be sure that the charger outputs closest to 5v possible, around 5.2~3 usually work for everything. About 5.6v and it start not to work on some devices, like apple..
Maybe, I have to test that
I know it's not a trick, I should wrote "trick".
For example GT adapter outputs 5.31v.
Apple adapter worked with 1 22k resistor between d- d+.
WarlockM said:
Hi. I've solved the problem of using other chargers with GT.
Like Apple, Samsung used a little trick with their chargers.
To charge your GT with any usb charger you have to make a little adapter.
Usb pinout:
gnd d- d+ 5v
To work you must short d+ and d-.
From 5v use a 33k resistor to d+/d-.
From gnd use a 10k resistor to d+/d-.
If you have multimeter you should obtain ~4v between 5v and d+/d-; and ~1v between gnd and d+/d-.
I tested it and it's working.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WarlockM said:
To charge your GT with any usb charger you have to make a little adapter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How can you do that? You need an extra device adapter? Please explain.
I've tested with d-/d+ shorted and it's not working.
@MizGarfield if u have 1 usb extension cable u can cut it on half.
Tie together white and green wires.
Tie black wires and conected to that 1 end of 10kohm resistor, the other end tie it to green/white wire.
Same to red wires but use 33kohm resistor.
See att. Sry for drawing.
bookmarking this for later use
WarlockM said:
I've tested with d-/d+ shorted and it's not working.
@MizGarfield if u have 1 usb extension cable u can cut it on half.
Tie together white and green wires.
Tie black wires and conected to that 1 end of 10kohm resistor, the other end tie it to green/white wire.
Same to red wires but use 33kohm resistor.
See att. Sry for drawing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't need that for modern devices has i told you. It did not work because you did it wrong. I have all my usb chargers working the new way, you even have wikipedia talking about it. You have to cut the data + and - on the power supply from the female usb port and short only the female d+ and d-. Trust me it works and it is alot simpler.
Edit : from wikipedia "The Dedicated Charging Port shorts the D+ and D- pins with a resistance of at most 200 Ω. The short disables data transfer, but allows devices to detect the Dedicated Charging Port and allows very simple, high current chargers to be manufactured. The increased current (faster, 9 W charging) will occur once both the host/hub and devices support the new charging specification."
""As of June 14, 2007, all new mobile phones applying for a license in China are required to use the USB port as a power port.[35][36] This was the first standard to use the convention of shorting D+ and D-.[37]""
http://apple.slashdot.org/story/10/08/03/1743240/Hardware-Hackers-Reveal-Apples-Charger-Secrets
""We all love to call out Apple when they design deliberate incompatibility into their devices, but there is a perfectly valid technical reason for what Apple is doing here, and, in fact, they are following a USB specification (which LadyAda unfortunaterly didn't even test).
Without data communications or when suspended, devices may legally draw no more than 2.5mA from a host, which is useless for charging. In fact, even if you're generous and pretend they're connected, devices are not allowed to draw more than 100mA without negotiating for a higher current, which requires actually talking to the host, and 100mA is still too little to charge properly. 500mA is the maximum allowed by the USB spec, but devices must negotiate it (there may be too many devices on the bus for negotiation to succeed).
Before there was a spec for "dumb" USB chargers, Apple used the resistors as a sentinel to avoid drawing too much current from undersized chargers in order to avoid damaging the host. This is a hack, but it works, and honestly, we're smart enough to figure out a couple resistors on the data lines. It's not like they're using crypto auth on the charger. They have a perfectly valid reason to do this. Devices which charge from "dumb" chargers aren't following the spec, though this is a common industry practice.
As it turns out, the USB-IF came up with a USB Battery Charging spec [usb.org]. The spec is long and boring, but it boils down to: short together the data lines (no resistors required) and you indicate that you're a dumb charger that can supply anywhere from 0.5A to 1.5A.
Guess what happens when you short the data lines of an iPhone 3G and supply 5V [marcansoft.com]. Did Apple just follow a standard? Incredible!
(Yes, I'm not following the USB spec there by in turn using a USB cable to supply the 5V and not negotiating over its data lines. I didn't feel like grabbing a dedicated 5V PSU for the shot, so sue me.)"""
http://marcansoft.com/transf/iphonechg.jpg
ok ??? no need for resistors, only 5.3V MAX and d+ and d- shorted
Thnx for the tip gonna try this later on my sanyo eneloop power booster tried it yesterday without this mod and it doesn't charge so gonna look for a AF to AF converter and modify it to gound the D+ and D-
@adolfotregosa
I tried again shorting d-d+, with iphone it works but with GT it's not working.
I use BatteryWatch and it is saying Not Charging. It's detecting the connection like usb port but is not. I use some device build by myself with 1 amp capabilities. D- and D+ r free of any connection and i can do with them what i want.
I dont say you r wrong but it's not working with GT.
Sent from my GT-P1000 using XDA App
but smt is wrong on your custom setup, voltage ??
EDIT: i just measure the original charger and it has no resistance between the data and power pins.
I think i know what could be wrong, when you plug in the Tab and it says not charging, how many volts have you got at that time ?
The original charger is very good because when it not charging the tab it has 5.3x volts but when you plug it in it lowers to 4.8x V Max and that is very good ! most chargers tend to lower much more (bad quality or just not powerful enough) and that is what causes the not charging messages on the tab or other devices.
Well i rest my case on this.
My device with no load it have 5.21v and with load 5.03v so it's not from him and i have another supply 5v/12 amp and it's doing the same (not charging, only with data shorted).
When u r trying to measure the original ps u can read ~7k between gnd and data but from 5v to data u cant because it have some capacitors.
Maybe samsund did something else, i have to try, maybe data pins drawing some current (mA) and that's why it's not working with only shorting them.
For the moment it's the only (working) solution i've found and i'm happy with it .
P.S. If i'm not finding anything else the last resort will be to open the original ps
Sent from my GT-P1000 using XDA App
USB Charger
This is what worked for me.
Items Needed:
USB Extension Cable
33k-Ohm Resistor (Shack Part No. 271-1129)
10k-Ohm Resistor (Shack Part No. 271-006)
Steps:
1. Cut USB Extension Cable in half, lets name the 2 halves, the half you will plug into the power suppy will be called "Cable A" and the half that you plug into the Galaxy Tab Data Cable will be called "Cable B"
2. On 'Cable A" strip outer plastic to expose all wires within, eliminate Green and White on this cable only as it will not be needed, leaving you with only the Red and the Black Cables
3. On "Cable B" strip outer plastic to expose all wires within, this should leave you exposing all 4 wires
4. On "Cable B" strip both the Green and White wires and join thes 2 wires with the 2 resistor ends (you should be using the resistor ends that have the red band with these wires), these can be joined by either soldering or just twisting together.
5. Strip Red wire from both cables and join together with the 33k-Ohm Resister (this will be the larger of the 2 resistors and should also be the end with the Gold Band) and as well join these together with solder or just twisting together.
6. Repeat the above process with the Black wires and 10K-Ohm Resistor.
7. No finally use Electrical Tape or Shrink Tubing to cover all your work.
This worked using it on a Champtek 5v 2.1a USB Car Charger and Home Charger. Also worked with iPhone charger. Also works with Original Galaxy Tab.
Hope this helps out.
May I just ask some clarifying questions?
rick75204 said:
This is what worked for me.
...
4. On "Cable B" strip both the Green and White wires and join thes 2 wires with the 2 resistor ends (you should be using the resistor ends that have the red band with these wires), these can be joined by either soldering or just twisting together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does it matter WHICH resistor you join to which of these two wires?
rick75204 said:
5. Strip Red wire from both cables and join together with the 33k-Ohm Resister (this will be the larger of the 2 resistors and should also be the end with the Gold Band) and as well join these together with solder or just twisting together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So that you have effectively bridged the red wire with 30K-Ohms to one of either green or white running to the TAB?
rick75204 said:
6. Repeat the above process with the Black wires and 10K-Ohm Resistor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And bridged the black wire with 10K-Ohms to the other of either green or white running to the TAB?
Would this be an accurate picture, with the 33K Ohm Resistor on the left, and the 10K Ohm Resistor on the right?
I think the intention was that you short the green and white wires together: so you are connecting both wires to both resistors.
That way the two data lines are both held at a fixed voltage of about 1.2V
Thanks, that clarified it.
I noticed today that if I connect my Tab to my keyboard (standard Apple USB KB with keypad, connected to a circa 2006 iMac), the device started charging according to battery stats. When it was plugged in it was at 48% and it ended up at around 60% after a few hours. Am I being deceived or something? I was under the impression that it would only charge if connected to the mains charger. Well I guess I'll see how long it runs now it's off the leash and see if it lasts till the morning (left my charging cable at work - D'oh!).
No, it definitely does charge even when it says it isn't - just slowly. I've got a 2A non-official USB charger that charges it up pretty quick, but still says it isn't charging. If the screen is off, it will even charge off one of those tiny Kindle chargers that must be delivering less than 500mA, but *really* slowly.
Clarify
Sorry guys, only a clarification.
As far as i understood:
the GT DOES charge with *any* charger (or connection to PC);
if you use the original charger (2Amp), it charges showing the charging-icon;
if you use a non-original charger, it charges in any case but NOT showing the charging-icon and depending on the charger power (even 1Amp charges, or 500mAmp, *VERY-REALLY* slowly);
if you use a non-original charger with the two resistors (33k + 10k) it charges showing the icon (even with a 1Amp).
Can anybody confirm if i understood well?
Thanks!!
eiem said:
Sorry guys, only a clarification.
As far as i understood:
the GT DOES charge with *any* charger (or connection to PC); Yes but slower than the original charger
if you use the original charger (2Amp), it charges showing the charging-icon; Yes, exactly
if you use a non-original charger, it charges in any case but NOT showing the charging-icon and depending on the charger power (even 1Amp charges, or 500mAmp, *VERY-REALLY* slowly); Yes.
if you use a non-original charger with the two resistors (33k + 10k) it charges showing the icon (even with a 1Amp). Depends, i get various results even though i am using the mod since day 1.
Can anybody confirm if i understood well?
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats it for now.
It seems that the Tab could recognize the status of the usb connection by measuring the usb data rx/tx wire level. If it is not shorted, the "pluged in but not in charging" status will appear, as the mismatch voltage of the usb connection is made.
Sent from my XT701 using XDA App
Has anyone torn down a car charger to direct wire the car charger into a vehicle?
Why not just use an inverter and plug it into that?
Car Charger
partin_us_99 said:
Has anyone torn down a car charger to direct wire the car charger into a vehicle?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why tear one down. You would have to completely redesign and rebuild it. The plug and wire is about all you would be able to use.
This is kinda pricey but I think this is what you want:
powerstream. com/ADC-p006. htm PST-YD100W
There is a couple of things to consider.
1. A car electrical system typically runs from about 9 volts on the low side to about 15 volts on the high side taking in consideration noise spikes maybe more in very short spikes.
2. your tablet is designed to run very close to 12 volts probably + or - 5% or 11.4 to 12.6 volts it may work okay up to + & - 10% or may not.
3. the adapter must be able to supply 12 volts @ at least 1.5 amps - you can find this value on your AC Adapter that came with your tablet.
So while the car may still run down to ~10 volts the tablet would likely have problems. Regulators normally take the input voltage and use a couple of volts to regulate. So if the input is 12 volts the output is going to be around 10 volts - to low for the tablet to work reliably. In most cases the car regulator when charging outputs around 14.4 volts. That on the other hand would work. One solution and the one I believe is used by the device from the power stream website is to use a voltage multiplier or DC to DC converter that amplifies the voltage then regulates it down to what is needed.
By the way it also comes with a bunch of plug adapters to match the jack on the tablet.
Regards,
- Phil
Found an article on hard wiring it with an add a circuit so I'm gonna do that. This isn't my first car wiring rodeo so it'll work. Thanks for all the replies I'll keep y'all updated
Sent from my GT-N7005 using xda app-developers app
I used an old Nokia 636 plug that I had that has the 3X1mm tip needed and spliced it into a mini usb car adapter, that was for my Tilt2 at the time, right after the fuse so I could power my phone and A500 simultaneously. It's been working fine for over a year and a half, I still use the Tilt2 as my dash cam. The Tilt2 plug also has an extra full usb port and friends and family will occasionally use that to charge their phones on trips so that one plug powers 3 devices and works fine.
So go for it, you will be fine.
Hello
I'm hoping some USB expert can help me out here, I'm trying to make a USB to DC (2.5mm plug) cable that can supply 2A, I have the popular HP Touchpad wallcharger that's rated 5v 2A , so I took a spare quality usb cable (copper cables) it has red, black, green, white (and a big bare metal cable and aluminum wrapping, shielding probably), the DC plug end has two wires red + black, so I hook up red to red black to black (red is 5V black is ground, tested using a multimeter) but I don't seem to be getting as good of results that the stock cable I have gets, the stock cable charges the device at around 1.8 Amps , the cable I made only outputs 800ma to 1.3 amps and if I turn the brightness up it stops charging like it can't supply enough power amps (again stock cable works fine with full brightness).
I'm wondering if on the charger end I need to do something with the green, white wires they both output around 2 volts should these be shorted to the black or possibly red wires to add additional amperage?
I found a youtube video where someone made a similar PSP charger and they spliced both the green, white and blacks wires together, I just want to make sure this is correct way to do things.
youtube.com/watch?v=8WhMeZkrK8U
Btw I also purchased a pre-made cable from dealsextreme but it exhibits the same behavior where full-brightness the charging light dims and goes out on my device, I assumed the low quality of the cable was to blame or again something needs to be connected with the green, white wires.
I know similar questions have been asked before but most have dealt with USB to USB fast charging , with USB to DC I'm confused on what to do with the D- and D+ wires at the charger end should they be shorted together? or to the black cable
ok I think I answered my own question, I tried to do a Ohm test on the stock cable and it seems there was no connection to the green and white or to any of the other wires, since the Ohm reading always returned 0, red and black got a 1+ reading meaning they were connected and a circuit was completed.
Looking at my stock cable it has a big black magnet on it, researching google i found this might be a ferrite core cable, so maybe this somehow boosts the signal and lets the cable pull more amperage or something.
The cylindrical lump on some cables is a ferrite core.
Its purpose is to reduce the amount of logic-generated RF noise from finding its way onto the main span of cable and using it as an antenna.
It will not affect any aspect of charging/powering a device.
Yes, the white/green data pair are used sometimes to indicate a dedicated charger.
A dedicated charger can have more current drawn from it than a normal USB connection.
This subject is handled exhaustively here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1384253
otyg said:
ok I think I answered my own question, I tried to do a Ohm test on the stock cable and it seems there was no connection to the green and white or to any of the other wires, since the Ohm reading always returned 0, red and black got a 1+ reading meaning they were connected and a circuit was completed.
Looking at my stock cable it has a big black magnet on it, researching google i found this might be a ferrite core cable, so maybe this somehow boosts the signal and lets the cable pull more amperage or something.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What are you trying to do, make another Touchpad charger? I assume you made sure it can supply up to 2A at 5V.
Many chargers including the HP Touchpad one IIRC short the green and white data wires and this tells the device it can draw more current. If your ohmmeter was reading 0 then that would mean they are shorted. I don't think they are tied to ground (black) just to each other.
The ferrite choke is there to suppress noise from the switching transformer so the device gets clean DC power when charging.
Thanks,
I was trying to make a cable for a Chinese tablet that cannot be charged through it's USB port and only has a 2.5mm dc power port, it seems to be pretty picky about the cable being used, so far the Stock cable to USB-DC to wall USB charger works fine (hp touchpad charger), and a true DC brick rated 2000ma , 5v to DC port works good, I wanted an extra cable to use to charge it with my HP usb charger so I ordered this from dx.com
http://dx.com/p/usb-to-2-5mm-dc-charging-cable-2538
as always I check the polarity and voltage of the cable and it showed 5.13 volts, and center pin positive, strangely when I hooked it to the tablet I saw the battery charging , at 100% I turned brightness up and ran a 3d game, suddenly I saw the red light switch on the tablet to indicate it's charging, strange since it was hooked up to power and was already fully charged, and another test battery was around 40% and I charged to around 80% I rebooted the tablet and the battery was at 40% again!, so thinking my battery died I re-hooked up the stock cable and charged to 80% rebooted again and battery was 80% , narrowed it down to the cheap dx.com cable not supplying enough amps or some short in the cable, this is when I decided to make my own cable.
In my post above, The USB cable I was using I ended up taking apart the usb male connector and found out although the cable was decent quality copper wires.. where it was making the connection at the USB male end the connector only had little push pins puncturing through the wire (two little metal prongs), they weren't soldiered or anything so I guess it was another cheap cable .
So I searched for another cable, finally I found an older usb cable that none of my devices use anymore, this cable actually had a copper metal shield I just connected red and black, left green and white alone not connected to anything, so far it is operating like the stock cable when fully charged I can run full brightness , cpu at fullspeed, and 3d game without the charger light on the tablet going on (I assume this means the tablet is getting enough power from the dc port and doesn't need to switch to battery), I haven't had time to charge the device with the cable yet, but I'm assuming it will work like intended.
I guess they don't make cables like they used to.
hey guys you can check this site out http://techno-fix.com/ . i found my pinout searches there. there are very usefull things
Hi Everyone,
I would like to be able to test a spare Eonon ga6163f without having to install it in my car. I have seen plenty of videos etc discussing the use of an PSU the problem is I don't have a old AT PSU but I have so many 12V switching power blocks.
Is it possible to use one of these even if the it's AC not DC? and does Amps matter?
meisme12 said:
Hi Everyone,
I would like to be able to test a spare Eonon ga6163f without having to install it in my car. I have seen plenty of videos etc discussing the use of an PSU the problem is I don't have a old AT PSU but I have so many 12V switching power blocks.
Is it possible to use one of these even if the it's AC not DC? and does Amps matter?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It must be DC +12. Twist yellow and red cables together and feed them with DC +12. Black cable to ground.
If it doesn't deliver enough current it wont run properly. I'm using a 12 V power block able to deliver 3,3 A.
You can even use a AT powersupply from an old PC to turn on your head unit, search youtube for guides, there are a lot of them.
On a computer PSU, locate the green (should be 1) cable. Then take a cable clip, or anything similar in metal and stort cut it to any black cable. This will simulate the "turn on" on computer. Then just pull the cable to turn it off.
Hi all, I am trying to connect my android Headunit to an atx power supply. I connected the positive from the psu to the Yellow (positive) and Red (ACC) connectors (bridged together) on the quadlock of the iso connector, and gnd from psu to gnd on the quadlock. The unit turns on for a second and then it immediataly turns off, everytime i power on the psu. The 12V are regularly transmitted. I don't understand if i have to connect/bridge other pins on the iso connector, for the canbus decoder thing, to let the stereo turn on correctly; can someone give me some help please? I gave searched everywhere and asked in other similar thread of many months ago, but with no luck. Thanks in advance.
more likely the ATX power supply is not running correctly. Dont they have trigger wires to allow a PC to switch the ATX on-off-standby mode ??
https://sadik.net/DIYProjects/tag/power-supply/
https://www.robotshop.com/letsmakerobots/atx-power-supply-converted-lab-use
pwood999 said:
more likely the ATX power supply is not running correctly. Dont they have trigger wires to allow a PC to switch the ATX on-off-standby mode ??
https://sadik.net/DIYProjects/tag/power-supply/
https://www.robotshop.com/letsmakerobots/atx-power-supply-converted-lab-use
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply, of course i made the bridge with the green and black wires on the psu, so it turns on without a pc motherboard, and as i said the 12v are regularly transmitted to the Headunit, i also tested it with a multimeter. The Headunit turns on for a second then it turns off; so considering that in another thread someone suggested to bridge the canbus pins, or something like that, i asked what i have to do exactly to let the car stereo turn on correctly. Unfortunately there are no documentations in the forums, or I could't find anything specifically related. Hope that someone can give me detailed instructions, because i don't want to burn my Headunit.
I use an old car battery for bench testing !!
Regarding the ATX, most of the people using them for bench power, also found they need a 10-20W load on the 5V wires. Try using a car tail-light bulb just to check ?
You might need to use multiple 12V wires (usually yellow) to feen the correct current to the head unit.
OR maybe you have a duff head unit ??
pwood999 said:
I use an old car battery for bench testing !!
Regarding the ATX, most of the people using them for bench power, also found they need a 10-20W load on the 5V wires. Try using a car tail-light bulb just to check ?
You might need to use multiple 12V wires (usually yellow) to feen the correct current to the head unit.
OR maybe you have a duff head unit ??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried it in the car, it turns on correctly. I think I will let it go, too risky, no precise info about it...
The reason is that a psu works with high frequencies generate the power.
The radios needs filters on the power lines to suppress those frequencies, because it needs clean voltage without those interferences.
Sometimes a big capacity may helps.
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Check your connections again, I hooked mine up to a SATA power cable from my atx psu using crocodile clips, I would recommend double checking your connections
Yellow 12v lead from SATA power to yellow and red on the head unit, black ground from SATA to black cable on head unit.
---------- Post added at 07:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:25 PM ----------
hercules123 said:
The reason is that a psu works with high frequencies generate the power.
The radios needs filters on the power lines to suppress those frequencies, because it needs clean voltage without those interferences.
Sometimes a big capacity may helps.
Gesendet von meinem MHA-L29 mit Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And for the pull-it-outta-your-ass award...
???
Do you have a canbus on the wire block if so you need to trigger that to a live feed