General Hardware question (USB, 5v, bluethooth) - Hardware Hacking General

Hello and Good evening,
I want to make a usb wired mouse into a wireless one. (Provided i cannot solder, and its a high dpi mouse)
Obviously there are two Problems to solve:
- make wireless (bluethooth, i think the only tech that could help)
- make able to power self (short: battery with 5v to usb)
So my question is: is it possible to cut the mouse wire, and connect it with a Y usb cable; in this case it need:
Male this is separated into male power and female data&power to male/female(not important).
The male(*) power get a usb rechargeable battery, the female a bluethooth dongle (**) the Male/female is the other end of the mouse.
* Because the only battery i found is female
** Q: Is there a bluetooth dongle that needs no driver or has build in driver and send usb data+- ?
what i found:
Battery 5v to USB - i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v1/1935810549/5V_li_ion_battery_pack_3_7v.jpg
Y USB (but wrong order, just for the idea) - ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41nWEk7w8SL._SX300_.jpg

Related

8525 to wired GPS cable

I am looking for a mini-USB Male to mini-USB Male cable to connect a GPS device (Garmin Edge 205) to a PPC (Cingular 8525) to transfer data. Both devices have mini-USB Female connectors normally used with mini-USB Male to regular USB Male to charge and transfer data with a laptop.
I'll write the driver myself.
Can you help?

TF300t Charge/sync

Hey guys,
If I use a 2 USB Type A male (1 for power from the Asus wall usb charger and the other for data from a computer) to a female Type A USB being plugged into the provided Asus Charge/sync cable, will it charge and sync at the same time or is the cable or hardware in the TF300T just not capable of doing both?
In case you are wondering, here's the cable we are using but instead of MIcro USB, its a female type A USB.
Thanks for your help.
Kits2GR said:
Hey guys,
If I use a 2 USB Type A male (1 for power from the Asus wall usb charger and the other for data from a computer) to a female Type A USB being plugged into the provided Asus Charge/sync cable, will it charge and sync at the same time or is the cable or hardware in the TF300T just not capable of doing both?
In case you are wondering, here's the cable we are using but instead of MIcro USB, its a female type A USB.
Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't bother doing the split that way -- there's a much better way to do this, assuming you're on a desktop. The Asus Transformer tablets will go into rapid-charge mode even at 12V (max 15V) on what's typically the 5V line. So if you use the existing 12V rail from your main power supply and send it through the 5V line, the tablet will charge and communicate over USB at the same time.
Make sure you isolate the 5V lead, otherwise you'll risk blowing something up by feeding 12V back into your motherboard.

How to attach usb powered hub to android stick? Which port

I have an andrid. Stick mx2 imito and I have a powered USB hub but I can't configure how I am meant to to get it to read from the hub. I have 2 ports on the stick, one full sized usb and one mini usb .
And In terms of devices I have my keyboard I want to add
1 external usb hard drive
And if I can get it to work a USB wifi dongle
Huh!
Since there is only one full sized USB port, I would think that is the solution. That's how it runs on mine anyway. Connect all your devices to the powered hub. Should be straight forward
So I would need a usb cable male to make? To connect to the hub. Do they exist ? I will try find the cable .
i cantget it to work
so the large usb port. i need a cable from that to connect to the hub? usb port
but i dont have a usb port with the same end? male to male etc
Get a USB powered hib
wakkaday said:
i cantget it to work
so the large usb port. i need a cable from that to connect to the hub? usb port
but i dont have a usb port with the same end? male to male etc
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The hub will come with one male USB to connect to the stick.
http://gadgets.softpedia.com/images/news/How-to-Charge-your-USB-Devices-Quick-and-Easy-4.jpg
Make sure to get a powered hub so that all the devices can be supported properly.
gsurath said:
The hub will come with one male USB to connect to the stick.
http://gadgets.softpedia.com/images/news/How-to-Charge-your-USB-Devices-Quick-and-Easy-4.jpg
Make sure to get a powered hub so that all the devices can be supported properly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this was an old hub i had, i dont have that wire. its a mini usb to full usb type connection isn't it?
Plenty of such options available
Here is another on ebay. Just search for powered USB hub and choose one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-PORT-USB-2-0-EXTERNAL-HUB-W-POWER-ADAPTER-FOR-PC-MAC-WITH-cable-SILVER-/370772094009?pt=US_USB_Cables_Hubs_Adapters&hash=item5653bd2c39
gsurath said:
Here is another on ebay. Just search for powered USB hub and choose one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-PORT-USB-2-0-EXTERNAL-HUB-W-POWER-ADAPTER-FOR-PC-MAC-WITH-cable-SILVER-/370772094009?pt=US_USB_Cables_Hubs_Adapters&hash=item5653bd2c39
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok great, so the port next to the power socket, is the cable i need to attach to and from the imito android stick? so that will be the main one and any other usb devices can go on the hub.
m confused on where i need to connect from on the android stick. which has 1 full sized usb, 1 mini usb otg socket and 1 mini usb (power)
It should also be possible to modify a USB hub to back feed power to the HDMI stick.
You would then power the hub with a sufficiently large USB power supply to power both the stick and all of the USB devices. In most cases, a single 2.1 Amp USB "wall wart" would work to power everything, unless you are really running something outrageous.
My NX003 (Same as MX1) can be powered from either the dedicated USB power jack, or the MicroUSB (OTG) connector.
So to build something like this, here is what I would do:
1. Obtain a USB hub I was willing to modify (destroy, as far as any other use is concerned)
2. Disassemble it.
3. Remove the input (Host) cable or connector.
4. Attach a short cable with a MicroUSB plug. Connect all 4 wires correctly.
5. Find "The diode" - Buy "The diode" I mean the one that that allows USB power to flow from the host to the peripherals when used in non-powered mode, but prevents power from flowing upstream to the host when an external power supply is used. (see referenced link).
6. Remove this diode, and replace it with a wire, jumper, or solder bridge.
7. Ensure all power circuity in the hub can handle 2 amps. Add solder to traces, or add jumper wire if needed to beef up current capability.
8. Reassemble, and clearly mark so that this hub is never used with anything else.
If the HDMI stick were powered via a coaxial connection, but is still powered by 5 Volts, I'd add a lead and coaxial plug off of the +5 in the hub. you'll have 2 wires, but it will still work. (Watch polarity.)
I have done this successfully for a prior, similar project. Reference Here: (Scroll to section about power.)
http://linuxslate.com/N770DockingStation.html
So why don't I actually do this to power my NX003? I did it an easier way. I bought a Tronsmart Prometheus. It has 3 full USB ports built-in.
-
Linuxslate said:
It should also be possible to modify a USB hub to back feed power to the HDMI stick.
You would then power the hub with a sufficiently large USB power supply to power both the stick and all of the USB devices. In most cases, a single 2.1 Amp USB "wall wart" would work to power everything, unless you are really running something outrageous.
My NX003 (Same as MX1) can be powered from either the dedicated USB power jack, or the MicroUSB (OTG) connector.
So to build something like this, here is what I would do:
1. Obtain a USB hub I was willing to modify (destroy, as far as any other use is concerned)
2. Disassemble it.
3. Remove the input (Host) cable or connector.
4. Attach a short cable with a MicroUSB plug. Connect all 4 wires correctly.
5. Find "The diode" - Buy "The diode" I mean the one that that allows USB power to flow from the host to the peripherals when used in non-powered mode, but prevents power from flowing upstream to the host when an external power supply is used. (see referenced link).
6. Remove this diode, and replace it with a wire, jumper, or solder bridge.
7. Ensure all power circuity in the hub can handle 2 amps. Add solder to traces, or add jumper wire if needed to beef up current capability.
8. Reassemble, and clearly mark so that this hub is never used with anything else.
If the HDMI stick were powered via a coaxial connection, but is still powered by 5 Volts, I'd add a lead and coaxial plug off of the +5 in the hub. you'll have 2 wires, but it will still work. (Watch polarity.)
I have done this successfully for a prior, similar project. Reference Here: (Scroll to section about power.)
http://linuxslate.com/N770DockingStation.html
So why don't I actually do this to power my NX003? I did it an easier way. I bought a Tronsmart Prometheus. It has 3 full USB ports built-in.
-
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the informatiom, but its a bit too technical for what i want... but i appreciate you efforts in writing this.
my stick can also power via both usb ports (mini) i have connected the cable from the stick to the hub which has been powered to the mains and it works, but the problem i have is when i put another usb device in the hub, it doesnt detect it e.g. keyboard wireless and i don't think the device has enough power to run my usb 2.0 portable harddrive (not main powered) - how can i get this to work? i have tried connecting this directly to the stick, but it just makes a beep sound. im guessing its lack of power... and i was hoping a hub would help.
my hub is powered 3.5 or 4 watts i believe...
Strange
Wakkaday,
This is very strange. On my MK802III I connect the powered USB hub (4 ports) to the full USB port.
I connect my bluetooth keyboard, 1 TB HDD and USB ethernet to the hub.
I power my Android stick using the 4rth port in the USB hub.
If I want USB audio, I replace the Ethernet/HDD with a USB audio peripheral.
All my peripherals work right out of the box. The only thing I am considering now is to have a separate power supply to the Android stick so that I can use all 4 ports on my hub.
It seems your device is not supporting the peripherals? Are the working when you connect directly?
gsurath said:
Wakkaday,
This is very strange. On my MK802III I connect the powered USB hub (4 ports) to the full USB port.
I connect my bluetooth keyboard, 1 TB HDD and USB ethernet to the hub.
I power my Android stick using the 4rth port in the USB hub.
If I want USB audio, I replace the Ethernet/HDD with a USB audio peripheral.
All my peripherals work right out of the box. The only thing I am considering now is to have a separate power supply to the Android stick so that I can use all 4 ports on my hub.
It seems your device is not supporting the peripherals? Are the working when you connect directly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm also trying to use a powered 4 port usb hub with my android stick, but it doesnot recognises the hub. Do i need to have any usb host drivers or change any setting to get it work? My stick is on Android ICS.. Thanks in advance

[Q] How to hack a single micro usb for charging and data transfer at same time

Hello guys, I'm trying to interface android tab with peripherals. Problem is, it is having only one micro USB port which is used for charging and otg/host, only one function is possible at a time .But I need to charge the tab and simultaneously transfer data to peripherals, say for example I need to use external mouse and charge the tab at same time.
So, is there any way to do it?
I know usb has 4 pins 5v,d+,d-,gnd. I thought to wire charging input power to tab pin 5v and gnd and pin D+,D-of tab to mouse D+, D- and giving external power supply to 5v and gnd pin of mouse.
Is this a right method? To charge and transfer the data at the same time?
Kindly help me. Suggest a better way to do it.
(mini & micro) USB connectors have 5 pins: Vbus, D-, D+, Id, Gnd.
For OTG, the Id pin is connected to Gnd.
It's like the old adage, "You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink."
You can connect a peripheral to an OTG host and have it work fine.
You can then connect an external power supply across the Vbus and Gnd.
The problem is, how does your host device know that it can "drink"?
There are basically two ways.
If the host detects power on its input before it switches into OTG host mode it may continue to charge.
If the host is in OTG host mode, device-specific commands to the charging circuits may convince it to charge.
There may also be non-standard Id resistor values for signalling host & charge for some devices.
I think your mileage would vary very much depending on what devices your using. AOS was not meant to deal with people hacking on the USB port, and probably the code to implement those features depend on your HW/FW.
If its a Samsung, you can play with some resistor values like these:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=25532839&postcount=2
I think the USB "CarKit" specifications should allow you both to charge and "connect" in some way.
A more easy solution would be to use a BlueTooth mouse and keep charging as usual.

Nexus 6P, Android Auto, faster charging question?

So, my 2014 Kia Soul has a new map update that is arriving in the mail tonight, and it includes Android Auto. I know I have to connect my device directly to the USB plug in my car to use it, but I have some questions for everyone.
I want to be able to keep my phone QUICK charging at 3A but also connect for the USB requirements for Android Auto. I also have a 32gb micro sized USB drive I'd like to keep plugged in, as it is loaded up with great driving music. I can live without the USB drive if needed, but really want to keep the ability to quick charge.
If I use an adapter like this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6ZPHAQ/
And connect the Type C connector on that to my phone, and then the Type C USB charger in my car to this, can I connect a Type A male to Type A male cable to satisfy Android Auto?
I hope this makes sense. I'm thinking it'll work, but maybe someone else has tried it. I have this adapter from some testing I did, but don't have a male to male type A USB cable to test out with yet.
I am almost sure it won't work. And where will you get 3A power to quickcharge? Cars usb are not prepared for that.
I would get to 3 amp power from where I get it now, the quick charger that I put in my car as mentioned above.
So the USB C cable would go from my current charger to the USB C in port on this adapter, which is designed only for charging through that port, then a USB A to USB A cable to connect the car USB port to the USB A port on the adapter.
I picked up a short USB a male to male cable earlier today so I can test this on Friday.

Categories

Resources