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I just bought a Joying Steering Wheel control radio. I got the 10.1" but I assume they all are similar. My question is, what type of input is the radio looking for to get the steering wheel controls to work? I have a 1999 Pontiac Trans Am. I had a Pumpkin Android radio and it had a Key1 and Steering Wheel Ground. I purchased a Pac SWI unit that connected to my car steering wheel wire. I set it for Pioneer, then used a 3.5mm jack from radio shack to connect to the PAC SWI with one wire to Key 1 and the other to steering wheel ground. It worked great. I tried this same technique on the Joying Stereo which doesn't have a steering wheel ground so I went straight to regular ground. It of course didnt' work. Are joying radios looking for a change in resistance, change in voltage? Does anyone know any adapters like the PAC that will output what the Joying wants to see?
I tried Joying customer service. They're very friendly but worthless. I couldn't find anything searching the net either.
Thanks in advance for the help!
TransAmMan said:
I just bought a Joying Steering Wheel control radio. I got the 10.1" but I assume they all are similar. My question is, what type of input is the radio looking for to get the steering wheel controls to work? I have a 1999 Pontiac Trans Am. I had a Pumpkin Android radio and it had a Key1 and Steering Wheel Ground. I purchased a Pac SWI unit that connected to my car steering wheel wire. I set it for Pioneer, then used a 3.5mm jack from radio shack to connect to the PAC SWI with one wire to Key 1 and the other to steering wheel ground. It worked great. I tried this same technique on the Joying Stereo which doesn't have a steering wheel ground so I went straight to regular ground. It of course didnt' work. Are joying radios looking for a change in resistance, change in voltage? Does anyone know any adapters like the PAC that will output what the Joying wants to see?
I tried Joying customer service. They're very friendly but worthless. I couldn't find anything searching the net either.
Thanks in advance for the help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It doesn't matter what Chinese brand you buy. They all have resistive inputs. As you wrote Key1 for left side and Key2 for right side and ground.
If your car has can-bus SWC you need to go here and get what you need. e.g axxessinterfaces.com or Crutchfield. There's a specific interface cable for
Chinese head-units.
halloj said:
It doesn't matter what Chinese brand you buy. They all have resistive inputs. As you wrote Key1 for left side and Key2 for right side and ground.
If your car has can-bus SWC you need to here and get what you need. e.g axxessinterfaces.com or Crutchfield. There's a specific interface cable for
Chinese head-units.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the quick response. So if it's just a resistive input, do I just hook my two connections from my PAC SWI to Key 1 and Key 2 so that way the resistance change goes across those two connections?
TransAmMan said:
Thanks for the quick response. So if it's just a resistive input, do I just hook my two connections from my PAC SWI to Key 1 and Key 2 so that way the resistance change goes across those two connections?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update. I got it to work. So from my 99 Trans Am, I hooked the single steering wheel wire up to the PAC unit. It's the SWI-RC. I set it and programmed it for a Pioneer radio but I don't think it matters. The output is a 3.5mm headphone style plug. I bought a 3.5mm jack from radio shack and soldered wires to the large connector and the top one. One wire goes to Key 1, the other to Key 2. Programs and works perfect!
TransAmMan said:
Update. I got it to work. So from my 99 Trans Am, I hooked the single steering wheel wire up to the PAC unit. It's the SWI-RC. I set it and programmed it for a Pioneer radio but I don't think it matters. The output is a 3.5mm headphone style plug. I bought a 3.5mm jack from radio shack and soldered wires to the large connector and the top one. One wire goes to Key 1, the other to Key 2. Programs and works perfect!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Time to buy a lottery ticket.
Man, what are the chances for my XDA PAC search to turn this thread up?!?! I too have a Trans Am (2000) with Joying headunit and had problems getting the PAC to work with it last night. I have Key1 hooked up to the PAC output wire and didn't work, but I also had my PAC set to "other".
Since you have the same car, just to make sure, you have your PAC programmed for "1", dial on side of it set to "pioneer", right?
I'm going to get a female 3.5mm jack today. I'm confused on what you mean by the large connector and the top one. Could you please explain?
InfiniteReality said:
Man, what are the chances for my XDA PAC search to turn this thread up?!?! I too have a Trans Am (2000) with Joying headunit and had problems getting the PAC to work with it last night. I have Key1 hooked up to the PAC output wire and didn't work, but I also had my PAC set to "other".
Since you have the same car, just to make sure, you have your PAC programmed for "1", dial on side of it set to "pioneer", right?
I'm going to get a female 3.5mm jack today. I'm confused on what you mean by the large connector and the top one. Could you please explain?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just bought a 2nd Joying radio and will be installing it in my other Trans am this weekend. I intend to put together a very detailed 'how to' video when I do the steering wheel control part. I was amazed that there was very little info out there on how to hook it up. When you get your connector, you'll see 3 terminals on in. One is very large and sort of wraps around backwards towards the plug. When you plug your 3.5mm plug from the PAC, you'll see the tip touches this part of the jack. You solder 1 wire to that long connector. There's a small tab opposite the large. You solder the 2nd wire to that one. Now all you have to do is hook up the 2 wires from the jack you just soldered to Key 1 and Key 2. It doesn't matter which wire goes to which one. Any other questions, feel free to ask!
You said your jack had 3 terminals, but you talked about 2 wires plus the key 1 and key 2 wires. Where is 4th wire? Also where are the first 2 wires coming from? 1 has to be from the cars steering wheel wire but the other?
I actually have a 3.5mm jack laying around but they have wires on them. I cut the end off and have white, red and yellow.
Sorry for the questions and really appreciate the help and the future how to video. Still random as many vehicles on the road someone with same car and headunit knows how to get it to work. Thanks!
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I had to quickly sketch it out in CAD to follow it, I was confusing myself, lol. Now I'm following, sounds like you only use 2 of the 3 terminals or maybe the 3rd needs to be ground or just don't connect it?
I'm going to pick up a female 3.5mm plug from radio shack after work. This is what I plan to get.
https://www.radioshack.com/collecti...-stereo-in-line-audio-jack?variant=5717422981
You can just do this:
pounce said:
You can just do this:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is it really that simple??? It does make perfect sense since it looks for resistance and can program buttons in setup
InfiniteReality said:
Is it really that simple??? It does make perfect sense since it looks for resistance and can program buttons in setup
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup. That simple.
pounce said:
Yup. That simple.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heck yeah! I know what I'll be doing when I get home. Thanks!
InfiniteReality said:
I had to quickly sketch it out in CAD to follow it, I was confusing myself, lol. Now I'm following, sounds like you only use 2 of the 3 terminals or maybe the 3rd needs to be ground or just don't connect it?
I'm going to pick up a female 3.5mm plug from radio shack after work. This is what I plan to get.
https://www.radioshack.com/collecti...-stereo-in-line-audio-jack?variant=5717422981
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the late reply. Your sketch looks correct. Here's my youtube video showing the install https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45t9-meX5qY
TransAmMan said:
Sorry for the late reply. Your sketch looks correct. Here's my youtube video showing the install https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45t9-meX5qY
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No worries. I tried simply hooking the OEM steering wheel wire to Key1, but still didn't work.
Thanks for the video, very much appreciated! You are the man!!
InfiniteReality said:
No worries. I tried simply hooking the OEM steering wheel wire to Key1, but still didn't work.
Thanks for the video, very much appreciated! You are the man!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You have to connect the key wire AND the ground from the harness. Resistive systems are two wires. Your ground is probably floating.
pounce said:
You have to connect the key wire AND the ground from the harness. Resistive systems are two wires. Your ground is probably floating.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Steering wheel wire & ground wire from the OEM harness were connected to Key1 & ground on HU harness. Is that what you mean?
InfiniteReality said:
Steering wheel wire & ground wire from the OEM harness were connected to Key1 & ground on HU harness. Is that what you mean?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are two wires that make up the system used for the steering wheel buttons. The diagram was simplistic and showed only one wire from the harness to the adapter that you bypassed. If you truly have only one wire and your adapter was only connected to one wire that would be weird.
Assume that there are two wires coming out of your trans am wiring harness for the resistive buttons. Connect the wire that is probably white and green to Key1. Ground the other wire to the ground from the head unit to the ground on the vehicle. That would result in 3 wires being connected together for ground.
Basically, when a button is pushed you are connecting power to ground. If your ground for the button is floating then you cant measure the resistance of the button in the head unit. Nothing is happening.
If you have all that working and its not working...did you program the buttons in settings?
pounce said:
There are two wires that make up the system used for the steering wheel buttons. The diagram was simplistic and showed only one wire from the harness to the adapter that you bypassed. If you truly have only one wire and your adapter was only connected to one wire that would be weird.
Assume that there are two wires coming out of your trans am wiring harness for the resistive buttons. Connect the wire that is probably white and green to Key1. Ground the other wire to the ground from the head unit to the ground on the vehicle. That would result in 3 wires being connected together for ground.
Basically, when a button is pushed you are connecting power to ground. If your ground for the button is floating then you cant measure the resistance of the button in the head unit. Nothing is happening.
If you have all that working and its not working...did you program the buttons in settings?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply. Unless I'm mistaken, the Trans Am OEM harness only has 1 wire for steering wheel controls and there are no more wires that aren't connected from that harness. Wouldn't it be better to hook it up as you suggested OEM 1 wire to Key1 and then just ground Key2?
InfiniteReality said:
Thanks for the reply. Unless I'm mistaken, the Trans Am OEM harness only has 1 wire for steering wheel controls and there are no more wires that aren't connected from that harness. Wouldn't it be better to hook it up as you suggested OEM 1 wire to Key1 and then just ground Key2?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't tie key2 to anything. Its for a second button control set if you have one. You don't have one.
Did you state the year of your car?
Here is the install for for an ASWC-1 adapter for 1999 (like the op). You can use this to cheat on getting the wiring right.
http://contentdocs.installernet.com/documents/vehicle/12425.pdf
If you have this year or this applies double check you have attached to pin 14 wire. Assuming you had an aswc of some sort and it worked you are probably ok using the wire it used (as long as its not acc or ground of course).
If you have another year you can look up the install guide to get the wiring instructions or check your service manual.
http://axxessinterfaces.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=19
What's telling you that they way you have it wired isn't working?
Evening all.
I have an xtrons 4.4 HU, it's fitted with a canbus decoder in and Audi A4.
The HU came with the steering wheel controls preset, I've tried to map them to add my own touch but I can't. When I go into the steering wheel control option, I operate a key and he screen does not recognise this, I've also tried highlighting a button then trying to use a steeeing wheel button and it still doesn't recognise it.
What ami missing guys? All the YouTube and Google tutorials say to do it how I am!
Thanks.
I have the same issue on a 2012 Mazda 3, the head unit only recognizes a direct voltage input from the steering wheel buttons, yours is probably controlled by the CANBUS, with the head unit, there should be 2 wires (Key1 and Key2), they should be connected to the car wiring I believe. Please wait for someone with more experience to confirm.
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From what I've read they are connected through canbus but I have no idea how to work around this. Thanks.
Anyone? Tried downloading the rk1188 headunit app but it does nothing!
interested about!
Anyone please?
Tracking this info down was a nightmare for me. Hope this is useful to someone.
Requirements:
• Axxess aswc-1 Universal Steering Wheel Control Interface. (link)
• Time and patience.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT use the 3.5mm Female input (SWC IR-WIRELESS Steering Wheel Key Control Port) on the back of the Atoto A6 Pro. This port does not work for some reason.
**Connections to the Car**
1. Download the vehicle specific instructions for your car, as well as the "Axxess Steering Wheel Control Interface Installation Manual" (two different PDFs) from https://axxessinterfaces.com.
2. Follow the vehicle specific instructions to first connect the AWSC-1 to your car.
**Connections to the Radio**
1. The aswc-1 includes a female 3.5mm connector with a brown and brown/white wire coming out. Use this to connect to the Atoto’s Steering Wheel Key(+) and Steering Wheel Key#(+) wires.
2. Connect the "Steering Wheel Key+” wire of the Atoto A6 to the Brown/White wire of Axxess ASWC-1, connect the "Steering WheelKey#+” wire of the Atoto A6 to the Brown wire of the aswc-1
(yes, both of these wires are positive. I don't know who or why, but it works.)
3. Plug the male 3.5 mm jack from the aswc-1, into the female 3.5 mm jack that you wired up in step 2.
4. The ASWC-1 will NOT auto detect the Atoto A6. (don't worry, not a problem)
5. Follow the instructions from page 12 of the "Axxess Steering Wheel Control Interface Installation Manual" to change your radio type.
Change your radio type to "Visteon". (Visteon is radio type 8).
7. At this point you have completed configuring the aswc-1. Next, move on to your radio.
8. From the radio navigate to: Settings>Default settings>Steering wheel program.
9. Once at the screen press "Reset".
10. Then press any key value from the menu, it will begin to flash.
11. Finally press one of the buttons on your steering wheel. The flashing key (from step 10) on your radio will stop flashing, and a triangular symbol will appear on the key. This indicates the key has been successfully programmed.
repeat steps 10 and 11 until you have programmed all the steering wheel control buttons. :good:
first thanks for the guide there is nothing of information of those two wires anywhere.
second, I followed all the steps except the manual programming of the stereo, but use the axxess app to program the module as Visteon but I still can not make it to work, I know that axxess is well connected to the car because it already worked with my previous stereo but honestly I do not know what else I can do to make it work.
ATOTO steering wheel control for cars with resistance circuit
Just wanted to mention that if you vehicle's steering wheel controls is based on a simple resistance circuit, then it can be connected directly to ATOTO with no need for Axxess aswc-1. My vehicle (2011 Subaru WRX) was in this category.
For my vehicle, there are two wires in the harness and the resistance between these two wires will change depending on which SWC button is pressed on the steering wheel. Unfortunately, the ATOTO documentation is dead wrong how to hook this up. The manual says that if your vehicle has two wires, you should connect the two wires from the vehicle to the "Steering WheelKey#+” and "Steering WheelKey+” wires. That doesn't work. Instead you should connect one of the vehicle wires to chassis ground and the other vehicle wire to either of the ATOTO "Steering WheelKey" wires. I think the ATOTO wires are both labeled as "+" because they assume the vehicle SWC will provide a path to ground. Hope this information helps someone else.
Thanks a lot for your sharing! Really helpful!
jackohound said:
Just wanted to mention that if you vehicle's steering wheel controls is based on a simple resistance circuit, then it can be connected directly to ATOTO with no need for Axxess aswc-1. My vehicle (2011 Subaru WRX) was in this category.
For my vehicle, there are two wires in the harness and the resistance between these two wires will change depending on which SWC button is pressed on the steering wheel. Unfortunately, the ATOTO documentation is dead wrong how to hook this up. The manual says that if your vehicle has two wires, you should connect the two wires from the vehicle to the "Steering WheelKey#+” and "Steering WheelKey+” wires. That doesn't work. Instead you should connect one of the vehicle wires to chassis ground and the other vehicle wire to either of the ATOTO "Steering WheelKey" wires. I think the ATOTO wires are both labeled as "+" because they assume the vehicle SWC will provide a path to ground. Hope this information helps someone else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the Atoto a6 there is a Steering Wheel Key + (Orange wire) and a Steering Wheel Key# + (Brown, Black Stripe).
On my Metra harness there is a Steering Wheel 1 (Green), Steering Wheel 2 (Blue), 12v (Red) and Ground (Black). All for the Steering controls.
This is on my 11 WRX.
andrewd5418 said:
On the Atoto a6 there is a Steering Wheel Key + (Orange wire) and a Steering Wheel Key# + (Brown, Black Stripe).
On my Metra harness there is a Steering Wheel 1 (Green), Steering Wheel 2 (Blue), 12v (Red) and Ground (Black). All for the Steering controls.
This is on my 11 WRX.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you give a link to the Metra harness you have? The 2011 WRX steering wheel controls have 2 or 3 wires depending on your car's options, so having 4 steering wheel wires on the Metra harness seems strange. I'll paste one of the wiring diagrams here, guessing at your car's options. If you have trouble pasting a link to a Metra part like 70-8901 , just add some spaces onto the URL to make it look like plain text.
Also it would help to know if your 2011 WRX came originally from the factory with a non-bluetooth radio, bluetooth radio, or with the Navigation. The important point here is whether your steering wheel has just the Vol+/Vol-/Mode/Seek button cluster or if you also have the other cluster for controlling the bluetooth phone.
My guess is that you should connect Metra SteeringWheel1 to ATOTO Steering_Wheel_Key+, connect Metra SteeringWheel2 to Chassis Ground, and leave the any other steering wheel specific wires on your Metra harness unconnected since ATOTO doesnt need those. This is just a guess without the other info that I requested.
My bad. It is an "upgraded metra". It won't let me post a link. From auto harness house part AHH-70-7552
My cars a limited no nav. So it has bluetooth.
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andrewd5418 said:
My bad. It is an "upgraded metra". It won't let me post a link. From auto harness house part AHH-70-7552
My cars a limited no nav. So it has bluetooth.
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Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, so given that you have harness AHH-70-7552, then you should connect Metra SteeringWheel1 to ATOTO Steering_Wheel_Key+; connect Metra SteeringWheel2 to ATOTO Steering Wheel Key#+; leave the Metra SWC +12 and ground wires unconnected (ATOTO doesnt need those). The "third" common wire from your vehicle's SWC will be correctly connected by ground by the harness itself, as is noted in the AH-70-7552 product page:
*Pin 14 is grounded in the harness for the convenience of the installer. If this connection is not desired, cut the wire that connects between pin 14 and pin 10
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BTW, you might find this AE64 page useful for details on the pinouts for your subaru's 20-pin connector.
On a separate topic, are you connecting a back-up camera to the ATOTO? Noticed that your Metra harness doesnt have the reverse gear signal.
I was going to eventually and just run a wire from the reverse sensor wire to the units harness
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---------- Post added at 10:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:36 PM ----------
Do you know if I leave the parking brake wire disconnected on the atoto harness?
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andrewd5418 said:
I was going to eventually and just run a wire from the reverse sensor wire to the units harness
Do you know if I leave the parking brake wire disconnected on the atoto harness?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that's what I did on my install and what I would recommend. The ATOTO has a "feature" where it will disable playback of videos unless the parking brake is set, but that feature is disabled by default. There is no particular reason to connect the parking brake wire to the ATOTO unless you plan on enabling that feature.
Atoto swc
Thank you for your tip, my car Mitsubishi Pajero dakar has 2 wires with diferent resisteses, i conected 1 cable from the car to ATOTO and the second cable of the car to ATOTO AND GROUND toghether, that was the only way that worked... if i leave the second cable of atoto without ground it do not work..
Outlander 2015 Problem
Hi All !
I followed your instructions.
I have a Outlander 2015 and a ATOTO Pro A6.
After configuring the AWSC-1, only two buttons on the steering wheel work in the mapping panel (Volume up and skip right) no other wheel button is recongnized by ATOTO
I tried to swap the wires from the male jack connected to Steering key and key# with no luck.
Anybody encountered the same problem ?
Thank you
help what colour
jackohound said:
Just wanted to mention that if you vehicle's steering wheel controls is based on a simple resistance circuit, then it can be connected directly to ATOTO with no need for Axxess aswc-1. My vehicle (2011 Subaru WRX) was in this category.
For my vehicle, there are two wires in the harness and the resistance between these two wires will change depending on which SWC button is pressed on the steering wheel. Unfortunately, the ATOTO documentation is dead wrong how to hook this up. The manual says that if your vehicle has two wires, you should connect the two wires from the vehicle to the "Steering WheelKey#+” and "Steering WheelKey+” wires. That doesn't work. Instead you should connect one of the vehicle wires to chassis ground and the other vehicle wire to either of the ATOTO "Steering WheelKey" wires. I think the ATOTO wires are both labeled as "+" because they assume the vehicle SWC will provide a path to ground. Hope this information helps someone else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a 2011 subaru forester sounds like same wires /radio but what wire from the car do I need to connect? I understand I dont need a controller for this? there are 2 wires coming from atoto radio harness but what are the color of wires i need to connect to the car?
inventiveash said:
I have a 2011 subaru forester sounds like same wires /radio but what wire from the car do I need to connect?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did your 2011 Subaru Forester come from the factory with Navigation? If not, then does your steering wheel one cluster of SWC buttons (Vol+,Vol-, Seek+, Seek-, Mode, Mute) or does it also have the second cluster of SWC buttons for controlling Bluetooth phone? These questions affects the color and location of the wires you'll be looking for.
It has volume +&-
Tune up and down
Mode
No mute button
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creatingash said:
It has volume +&-
Tune up and down
Mode
No mute button
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, Take that to mean your 2011 Subaru Forester did not come with factory navigation and does not have the Bluetooth steering wheel buttons. In that case, you are looking for the following two wires on your car:
Yellow wire: Connected to pin 14 of your 20-pin Subaru audio connector.
LightGreen with red stripe: Connected to pin 4 of the 20-pin Subaru audio connector.
Refer to pics and pinouts of the 20-pin Subaru connector. Connect one of the above two Subaru wires (either one) to ground. Connect the remaining Subaru wire to ATOTO orange-black steering wheel key (+).
Leave the ATOTO brown-black steering wheel key #(+) unconnected. This worked for me, but others had reported that they needed to connect the steering wheel key #(+) to ground, so you could try that if needed.
Thank you, I will give it a try,
Since you are familiar any idea the best place for finding a reverse light wire easy to get to.
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inventiveash said:
any idea the best place for finding a reverse light wire easy to get to?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On 2011 Subaru Forester with factory navigation, that wire (a brown wire with yellow stripe) would be brought out to one of the navigation connectors. Don't know if that wire is accessible in your vehicle's instrument panel harness or not.
2015 Honda Fit
I've got the AWSC-01 connected to the HDCC-02 harness. The module will sense my buttons for setup but I cannot get it to work with the head unit. The head unit will detect a button press when the module ends it's setup mode on boot though. I've got it hooked up as described using the wires through the HDCC-02 harness. I even tried grounding each wire and it didn't make a difference.
According to another user they had to buy a $100 adapter to get it to work. I really don't want to pay $100 for steering wheel buttons.
Help would be appreciated.
2014 WRX l, no nav, bluetooth.
So my Metra harness did not come with steering wheel pins (4, 13, 14) can I just bypass the harness and hook it up straight from the A6 to the cars wires?
I also intend to replace my touch2 with go for an android Head Unit. I have an European Toyota Auris from 2014 and I find the support of smartphones and map updates downright sad. Mirrorlink suddenly stops working after PIE update, map updates are expensive and are more than a year behind.
I notice how few people complain about this. I was curious if someone already taken the step and if you like it, and if everything works: the reversing camera, android auto etc ... I have found the next Head Unit: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/WITS..._expid=71c6db31-fd7f-4938-8500-c6a56c89a5c6-0
Android head unit in Toyota Auris Hybrid 2014
Hello, I installed the same head unit in my Toyota Hybrid 2014. (also Aliexpress, model 2014, but XDA doesn't allow me to post the link)
It was plug and play, with a lot of leftover cables/connectors: you can add dash cams etc. afterwards.
I got everything to work, except from the voice command/voice dialing steering wheel button. I send a message to the seller about the problem, and they prepared a new cable for me, which is now on the way from China to the Netherlands. I can give you an update on the subject after I have installed the new cable.
The head set itself is great and works very good. OEM rear camera works great, car functions show in display, and radio shows nice in the dashboard. Also steering wheel buttons work(if they don't work correctly, you can assign functions to the steering wheel buttons through an app within the head unit).
Keep me informed about your progress! Regards, Gert-Jan Bosch
Gert-Jan Bosch said:
Hello, I installed the same head unit in my Toyota Hybrid 2014. (also Aliexpress, model 2014, but XDA doesn't allow me to post the link)
It was plug and play, with a lot of leftover cables/connectors: you can add dash cams etc. afterwards.
I got everything to work, except from the voice command/voice dialing steering wheel button. I send a message to the seller about the problem, and they prepared a new cable for me, which is now on the way from China to the Netherlands. I can give you an update on the subject after I have installed the new cable.
The head set itself is great and works very good. OEM rear camera works great, car functions show in display, and radio shows nice in the dashboard. Also steering wheel buttons work(if they don't work correctly, you can assign functions to the steering wheel buttons through an app within the head unit).
Keep me informed about your progress! Regards, Gert-Jan Bosch
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very good! Thanks for the info. In the mean time I took another direction;
https://car-solutions.com/en/smartp...tomail&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=automail
I have a Samsung so smartview is working perfect.
One question though, is android auto working with your gear and do you have the exact head set as I linked?
Regards, Maurits
Hey...
How about the battery monitor you have with Toyota radio,
Do you still have the option to see this with the android headunit?
Android head unit in Toyota Auris Hybrid 2014
Hakem said:
Very good! Thanks for the info. In the mean time I took another direction;
I have a Samsung so smartview is working perfect.
One question though, is android auto working with your gear and do you have the exact head set as I linked?
Regards, Maurits
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Android auto is not supported: it has Android Auto pre-installed, but it doesn't work: the buttons on the screen do not activate the corresponding buttons on Android auto on my telephone(they don't cooperate)
The head set is not "Play store protected", so automatic updates also don't work. By installing a new version of Android Auto it says that the device is not compatible for that version.
I would NOT recommend this head set to anybody. It has a nice sound, you can indeed install another route-planner, but you cannot use voice commands and Android Auto, which I find essential.
The cable which was promised to be send by Aliexpress shop "Big Screen GPS Factory Store" (in order to make voice command working)never arrived, and complaints are not answered... and since today it says they cannot receive messages from me..
In other words, I am blocked: NO GARANTEE whatsoever.
Regards, Gert-Jan
---------- Post added at 03:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:05 PM ----------
Yes, the battery monitor works fine. I still do not recommend the head unit! (see my other reply)
---------- Post added at 03:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:20 PM ----------
Yes, the battery monitor works fine. I still do not recommend the head unit! (see my other reply)
Gert-Jan Bosch said:
Android auto is not supported: it has Android Auto pre-installed, but it doesn't work: the buttons on the screen do not activate the corresponding buttons on Android auto on my telephone(they don't cooperate)
The head set is not "Play store protected", so automatic updates also don't work. By installing a new version of Android Auto it says that the device is not compatible for that version.
I would NOT recommend this head set to anybody. It has a nice sound, you can indeed install another route-planner, but you cannot use voice commands and Android Auto, which I find essential.
The cable which was promised to be send by Aliexpress shop "Big Screen GPS Factory Store" (in order to make voice command working)never arrived, and complaints are not answered... and since today it says they cannot receive messages from me..
In other words, I am blocked: NO GARANTEE whatsoever.
Regards, Gert-Jan
---------- Post added at 03:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:05 PM ----------
Yes, the battery monitor works fine. I still do not recommend the head unit! (see my other reply)
---------- Post added at 03:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:20 PM ----------
Yes, the battery monitor works fine. I still do not recommend the head unit! (see my other reply)
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Click to collapse
That's a bummer! It is a little bit too expensive to find out what headset is suitable with try and error. Maybe in the meantime time you find another solution. I can recommend mine; it just uses the video input of the original headset.
Seeing if anyone has any input here to possibly assist getting on of the new Joying Android 10 units working with the steering wheel controls on my 2008 350Z. I just cannot wrap my head around this. I don't believe my car has CANBUS but there seems to be no real concrete info. If not, I've read some conflicting items here. There's 2 plugs on the car harness that went to the stock radio that don't seem to have an equivalent to the aftermarket harness or unit. Can they be adapted somehow
There are universal adapters but I read that you have to splice and solder IN THE CAR for this **** to actually work? What a nightmare. Is there anything that I can pre-wire that just works? The AXXESS and PAC unit seem to require an engineering degree to figure out in addition to splicing the factory harness. This all seems so ridiculously difficult, there has to be a better way here.
level5music said:
Seeing if anyone has any input here to possibly assist getting on of the new Joying Android 10 units working with the steering wheel controls on my 2008 350Z. I just cannot wrap my head around this. I don't believe my car has CANBUS but there seems to be no real concrete info. If not, I've read some conflicting items here. There's 2 plugs on the car harness that went to the stock radio that don't seem to have an equivalent to the aftermarket harness or unit. Can they be adapted somehow
There are universal adapters but I read that you have to splice and solder IN THE CAR for this **** to actually work? What a nightmare. Is there anything that I can pre-wire that just works? The AXXESS and PAC unit seem to require an engineering degree to figure out in addition to splicing the factory harness. This all seems so ridiculously difficult, there has to be a better way here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is your unit, post info including MCU, joying means zip.
Yes, please post additional information. It looks like there should be an AXXESS module for your steering wheel controls. You have to indicate which trim option you have...base audio, standard audio or Bose. Here:
https://axxessinterfaces.com/products?Year=2008&Make=Nissan&Model=350Z&TrimOption[]=Base%20audio&TrimOption[]=BOSE&TrimOption[]=Standard%20Audio
You can update the trim on that page to be specific to your car. I took a quick look at the instructions and CAN-HI and CAN-LO so it looks like it's possible yours has a Canbus interface. If yours does, not sure if the AXXESS modules will help. If you don't need a canbus module for anything else, then you could possibly use the AXXESS module just for the steering wheel controls on the canbus interface.
I used an AXXESS module for my 2012 Kia Sorento as the amplifier and sound required it. It came with a steering wheel control module as well. Took a bit, but finally set it up as needed. The best thing you can get is a schematic for your car as it will show details about your steering wheel buttons and how they communicate / are wired to the head unit. Get the schematic and you can set up the buttons. Mine, however, does not have or require canbus.
marchnz said:
What is your unit, post info including MCU, joying means zip.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can't find this info anywhere. Not in the box, not in the Amazon order, not in any of the menus etc. I'm super surprised how difficult it is to find.
mastrv said:
Yes, please post additional information. It looks like there should be an AXXESS module for your steering wheel controls. You have to indicate which trim option you have...base audio, standard audio or Bose. Here:
https://axxessinterfaces.com/products?Year=2008&Make=Nissan&Model=350Z&TrimOption[]=Base%20audio&TrimOption[]=BOSE&TrimOption[]=Standard%20Audio
You can update the trim on that page to be specific to your car. I took a quick look at the instructions and CAN-HI and CAN-LO so it looks like it's possible yours has a Canbus interface. If yours does, not sure if the AXXESS modules will help. If you don't need a canbus module for anything else, then you could possibly use the AXXESS module just for the steering wheel controls on the canbus interface.
I used an AXXESS module for my 2012 Kia Sorento as the amplifier and sound required it. It came with a steering wheel control module as well. Took a bit, but finally set it up as needed. The best thing you can get is a schematic for your car as it will show details about your steering wheel buttons and how they communicate / are wired to the head unit. Get the schematic and you can set up the buttons. Mine, however, does not have or require canbus.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info, but this is nearly impossible for me to understand. The tech docs for this AXXESS make zero sense at all. I don't see any of the items pointed out in the documents on my harness for either the car or the radio. They simply do not exist. I don't get how there are zero plug and play options for this. I don't see any options for Canbus for my car either. Whenever I Google this, I only find info related to LS1 swaps (meaning those who put an older Corvette motor into their 350Z). So frustrating.
Well, let's start with a couple of questions:
Sounds like you've already installed the head unit...correct?
What is the Joying model number?
Do you have schematics for your car? If not, can you get them? These will definitively inform what wires to use. With the buttons on your steering wheel, like volume up and down, they went to your factory head unit to change the volume. This information either went directly to the factory head unit for it to interpret or went through the canbus where the factory radio also obtained this information
Did the harness you used have a can bus module? It's a small box with a lot of wires going in and out.
Whether or not you used or need a canbus module is another question. What kinds of other things did your old factory head unit do:
Did you have bluetooth phone built-in?
Rear view factory camera?
Rear factory radar?
If your factory head unit was fairly basic, then you may not need a canbus module. Please post a picture of your dash...maybe a couple with the gauges and another for the center stalk where the radio and the climate controls go...also a picture of the steering wheel buttons. These will help inform the likeliness of having or needing a canbus module.
Not sure if you know what a canbus module looks like. This page shows 5 different types/manufacturers of canbus modules:
CANBUS settings
cc2.teyes.ru
If you don't need a canbus module, you need to figure out which wires to use to connect to the Android head unit.
Thanks for your continued responses and help mastrv. I'll answer your questions as best I can:
Sounds like you've already installed the head unit - Yes. I had an older Joying unit since 2016. The same harness can be used so it was a simple swap out after the not-so-simple task of pulling the entire center console away from the car.
What is the Joying model number? - I don't see this anywhere at all. Not in About Device, not in other menus, not on the box, not on the unit, not on the Amazon order, not on the Amazon product page. I cannot find this info whatsoever, and I have looked for it thoroughly.
Do you have the schematics for your car? If not, can you get them? No, and maybe at best. I don't know what I'm looking for here. There are two plugs that went to the factory CD player that go unused on the aftermarket harness. It's absolutely mindboggling there isn't an adapter for this.
Did the harness you used have a can bus module? I don't know, but I don't see anything resembling this in my car.
Did you have bluetooth phone built-in? Nope.
Rear view factory camera? Nope.
Rear factory radar? Nope.
As for the rest, I'll need to do so over the weekend. The entire cernter console has to be removed in this car to replace the head unit. This is why it's absolutely not possible for me to do things like solder inside the vehicle, and majority of these items are tucked away. How does AXXESS or PAC expect users to install this garbage? There isn't any space for it, and they label wiring that doesn't even exist in this car! Why not just made a single adapter and be done with it?
mastrv said:
Well, let's start with a couple of questions:
Sounds like you've already installed the head unit...correct?
What is the Joying model number?
Do you have schematics for your car? If not, can you get them? These will definitively inform what wires to use. With the buttons on your steering wheel, like volume up and down, they went to your factory head unit to change the volume. This information either went directly to the factory head unit for it to interpret or went through the canbus where the factory radio also obtained this information
Did the harness you used have a can bus module? It's a small box with a lot of wires going in and out.
Whether or not you used or need a canbus module is another question. What kinds of other things did your old factory head unit do:
Did you have bluetooth phone built-in?
Rear view factory camera?
Rear factory radar?
If your factory head unit was fairly basic, then you may not need a canbus module. Please post a picture of your dash...maybe a couple with the gauges and another for the center stalk where the radio and the climate controls go...also a picture of the steering wheel buttons. These will help inform the likeliness of having or needing a canbus module.
Not sure if you know what a canbus module looks like. This page shows 5 different types/manufacturers of canbus modules:
CANBUS settings
cc2.teyes.ru
If you don't need a canbus module, you need to figure out which wires to use to connect to the Android head unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From the information you've provided, it's most likely that you don't need a canbus at all...especially since your old unit didn't have one.
The only thing you're concerned about is the steering wheel controls, right?
Only thing that needs to be determined is which wires to be used for the steering wheel controls.
OK. I think I've found some good info for your model. The info doesn't have 2008 but it's for a 2007 and I think the 2008 is the same. This has information about the wires to use from the factory harness that connected to the old stereo:
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/forced-induction/360447d1390787670-finally-repurpose-your-steering-wheel-buttons-for-forced-induction-infiniti350zradiobuttonboxgeneralinstallguider1-7.pdf
It's for something called a Radio Button Box for racing applications. The install details the wires to use. On pages 2 and 3 it shows a piece of a schematic and identifies wires for Remote Control A, Remote Control B and Remote Control Ground. These would directly attach to Key1 and Key2 on the Android Head unit and any ground. On page 3 it also talks about how to test measure with a multi-meter to make sure these are the correct wires. The wires are in M39 connector:
Remote Control A is pin 22 and coloured R/G, Red and Green
Remote Control B is pin 23 and coloured OR, Orange
Remote Control Ground is pin 25 Y, Yellow
There is also a picture of the connector and it shows the wires from back and front. I think it shows the connector for an Infiniti G35, which is identical to the 350Z except for the wire colours.
I think you may not need any module and can connect those directly to the Android head unit...and then use the steering wheel control app to map them as you like.
FYI, the picture of the steering wheel controls includes a rocker for Volume up/down, buttons for Mode beside a Power button and a Prev/Next rocker.
FYI, the my350z site has much information and there is an Audio/Video section:
Audio & Video - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion
Audio & Video - 350Z Mobile entertainment and other electronics
my350z.com
mastrv said:
From the information you've provided, it's most likely that you don't need a canbus at all...especially since your old unit didn't have one.
The only thing you're concerned about is the steering wheel controls, right?
Only thing that needs to be determined is which wires to be used for the steering wheel controls.
OK. I think I've found some good info for your model. The info doesn't have 2008 but it's for a 2007 and I think the 2008 is the same. This has information about the wires to use from the factory harness that connected to the old stereo:
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/forced-induction/360447d1390787670-finally-repurpose-your-steering-wheel-buttons-for-forced-induction-infiniti350zradiobuttonboxgeneralinstallguider1-7.pdf
It's for something called a Radio Button Box for racing applications. The install details the wires to use. On pages 2 and 3 it shows a piece of a schematic and identifies wires for Remote Control A, Remote Control B and Remote Control Ground. These would directly attach to Key1 and Key2 on the Android Head unit and any ground. On page 3 it also talks about how to test measure with a multi-meter to make sure these are the correct wires. The wires are in M39 connector:
Remote Control A is pin 22 and coloured R/G, Red and Green
Remote Control B is pin 23 and coloured OR, Orange
Remote Control Ground is pin 25 Y, Yellow
There is also a picture of the connector and it shows the wires from back and front. I think it shows the connector for an Infiniti G35, which is identical to the 350Z except for the wire colours.
I think you may not need any module and can connect those directly to the Android head unit...and then use the steering wheel control app to map them as you like.
FYI, the picture of the steering wheel controls includes a rocker for Volume up/down, buttons for Mode beside a Power button and a Prev/Next rocker.
FYI, the my350z site has much information and there is an Audio/Video section:
Audio & Video - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion
Audio & Video - 350Z Mobile entertainment and other electronics
my350z.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks again mastvr! Still really confused on this. So, my harness to the Joying unit has a pink Key 1 and brown Key 2 wires. What I don't get here is how I'm connecting to the car here. Soldering is pretty much off the table. I'm also very leary of cutting anything factory in the vehicle, although I guess if I HAVE to, maybe I would. My apprehension here is that if I cut something, and it's wrong, I'm going to end up with a hacked up factory harness that I neither have the skills, space, equipment or otherwise know-how to fix. That's why I sincerely wish there was something I could just adapt in a plug-and-play fashion. So completely frustrated with this.
If you don't have a connector for the plug in the link I provided, you can always use a t-tap connector so you don't have to cut it...or maybe there's some module you can use.
Anyway, there's enough info to make sure those are the correct wires. So, good luck with the rest.