Warning: This MOD will void your warranty. You will have to open the device and leave traces behind by performing it. Only perform this Mod if you´re willing to take a risk.
While you´re at it, you might consider having a look at this too
Since the Nexus 7 ( 2013 ) is quite old now and many people will be out of warranty soon ( or are already ), this MOD won´t hurt you much but it will prevent your fingers from burning when the device heatens up after a while.
Improving the cooling of the SoC will reduce thermal throttling intervals and also enhance overclocking potential while still keeping your fingers cool.
Material needed:
- some thermal paste
- some piece of metal ( Aluminum or Copper of about 0.5mm thickness ) ( worst case you could use Aluminum Foil and fold it many times in order to build yourself the needed spacer )
- rubbing alcohol
- a thermal pad of about 0.5mm thickness ( optional , if you prefer to use one of these, you can skip the piece of metal and the thermal paste )
- some sanding paper ( optional, only needed if your piece of metal has many scratches and you need to smooth the surface )
You need to open your device and to make sure that you lay down your display on a soft surface in order to prevent it from being scratched.
This is the area we are interested in:
Now you need to carefully remove the copper foil without destroying it since you will need to reattach it later ( it serves as a EMI shield too ).
Once removed, you will see 3x closed containers, we´re only interested in the middle one since there is the SoC we want to cool. Use gentle force and use eg. a screwdriver in order to remove the lid, make sure not to bend it. You will need to reattach the lid again since this one also serves as a EMI shield. Be patient while trying to remove the lid and make sure not to damage the PCB.
Once you have removed it, we can see the SoC and the 2x RAM modules ( 2x are on the back of the PCB ).
Since I forgot to make some pictures, I had to borrow one from ifixit in order to show you how it will look like The SoC is marked red.
Now you need to either a) attach a thermal pad on the SoC and carefully attach the lid back or in case you don´t have one, b) use the other ingredients mentioned..
Attach a thin layer of thermal paste on the SoC ( I used Arctic Silver 5 but any similar paste will do the job equal ).
Cut a small piece of metal ( about 16mm x 16mm x0.5mm will be enough but it would be ok to cover the SoC completely ), make sure to clean it with rubbing alcohol and carefully put it on the SoC.
Hold it in place, attach another thin layer of thermal paste on your piece of metal and make sure to put the lid back on. It´s ok if it bulges a little, just make sure you don´t use too much pressure.
The result:
While the SoC was designed to be used without a heatsink, it can use the EMI shield now as a heatsink :good:
Now all you need to do is to carefully attach the copper foil again, make sure that your Touchscreen Connector is still in place and put the back on.
You can use Antutu to perform a stress test now and check your temperature. The device won´t run as hot as before while remaining stable, even if you overclock the SoC.
I´m really happy with this MOD and I use it for a while now without any negative experiences The temperature increase remains constant and the back of the device as well as the touchscreen don´t feel as hot anymore.
Feel free to tell me your experiences
Advanced MOD : give the RAM and the NAND storage some love too
As you can see, I´ve also attached some coolers on the RAM
Material needed :
- a sharp knife ( you´re right, I mean it )
- rubbing alcohol
- cue tips or toilet paper or whatever you find
- screwdrivers
Basically you need to make some extra spacers out of scrap material, I used eg. this junk :
Now comes the tricky part, you need to remove all the small screws which hold the mainboard in place, carefully disconnect the Touchscreen connector, Speaker connector and the side buttons.
You see the ugly sticker on the display metal ? Guess what, now we need the knife but we only have to remove a part of it because it needs to maintain a electrical connection. Don´t forget to carefully remove the sticker from the NAND storage too. Did I mention that handling these things require you to be extra careful ?
This can look like this:
I went through the trouble of removing the glue with alcohol.
Now you need to proceed like you know and the result can look like this:
Carefully attach the mainboard and make sure not to use too much force when you tighten the screws.
Make sure that all connectors etc. are set in place now, close the back and enjoy
Here is a Screenshot after having performed the Antutu Stability Test:
The back of the device feels warm but not hot at all and also the screen has a mild temperature too.
I´ve overclocked the CPU @ 2Ghz and the GPU @ 477 Mhz
@Gorgtech thank you for your great tutorial! I just did it myself and indeed the screen temperature in games and benchsmarks feels alot cooler . I managed to do some camera shots. I will upload the next day if someone is interrest.
You´re welcome, I´m glad you could improve your device too
Here are the pics that i promise [emoji14]. You can see my piece oft metal are about 14mm x 14mm x0,5mm big. Should be okay?
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Yes, it´s ok The size of the metal has to be big enough to partially cover the SoC and to connect it with the lid The piece I used is similar in size, slightly smaller than the SoC itself
@Gorgtech I see thank you for your help . I attach an antutu stabilty test with stock 5.1.1, is the temperature graph alright? I always use glitch kernel with OC so i have wait for his update.
The values are great, mine are worse because I´ve overclocked the CPU and GPU But still, the temps are quite low for such a device now
I use ElementalX without any undervolting. I use the Stock 5.1.1 Kernel at the moment too
I think I´m crazy I opened the device again and made some extra coolers for the RAM ( 4x ) and 1 for the NAND storage ( Uh Oh, risky risky ).
This time I made some pictures but the effort in order to add the extra cooling to the other components requires some extra work and patience.
Now all I need to do is to perform some tests and to check if the temps can improve further but I guess there is barely anything left to Mod in this device.
I can post the pictures if there is any demand for them
@Gorgtech Nice, please post the pictures you made .
OP updated, have fun
Gorgtech said:
OP updated, have fun
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you manage to get the tablet cooler with advance mode ?
I´m not sure if the extra effort is really worth it because the difference might be 1-3° at best in total. But on the other hand, cooler RAM and NAND might live a longer life
The only thing I noticed is that the device feels in total a lot better and even these "micro stutters" other guys have noticed when trying to scroll through huge pages, seem to have vanished or are at least barely noticeable ?
Maybe this is Placebo but in total it feels like I have a faster device since at least the throttling intervals have improved
Sounds good! I will be cover the rams too tonight. I remember the day back when i do your mod i thought why not cover the rams too, like a gpu xD.
Did anyone else perform the MODs or are you guys too lazy to stop playing Angry Birds for a few minutes ? Or did you perform these Mods and bricked your device ?
My device is still working fine, stable as a rock and barely warm, even after excessive use
@Gorgtech How is your device running after couple of weaks
My device is still running like a champ, the temps are stable and still no heating issue, even after a long usage
That's nice . Finally with glitch r343, antutu stability test.
Awesome temperature Does the device remain cool too ?
Yeah a bit cooler, GPU @600mhz is producing a lot of heat. It's better with the mod [emoji14]
Related
Hello to all
Today I am going to tell you about a very big disadvantage of Xperia Z, may be some of you already experience it
Before talking about disadvantage you need to know about some Information
As we all know Xperia z is water and dust proof, its means it is an air tight handset. We also know that all the processors and electric chips create heat while they are in use, and the heat from Xperia Z Board remain inside of Xperia Z that’s why we feel it’s back cover heated up when using it.
Heating up device is also because of the Rom software that we are using; right now Sony is not able to give us a perfect Rom for Xperia Z, which will not heat up our device
Second thing to know is about Xperia Z Disassembly
The Xperia Z back cover is not tight up with any kind to screws. It is assembled with some kind to chemical seal material, this seal is lose it up when it is heated
Here is a video for that please take a look 1) Link Daily motion ---- 2) Link you tube
The Disadvantage of Xperia Z
Xperia Z heat up so much during use and it back cover reached up to 38 to 42 Degree temperature
If you are live in country where normal environment temperature is 35 to 45 then both these temperature together make heating up device more, that will be effect on the back cover seal. The life of the seal will also be affected with it
Here are some people who experience already that their device back cover is starting losing up
Here is the link for that please takes a look
Once this seal is losing up its mean our device is not water & dust proof now, and if you put your phone into water in this condition then you can hard brick it
Tips for avoid that
1) Do not use your phone up to that level where your device heated up so much until unless Sony improves the Rom, and heating up problem is solved
2) You can also use custom Rom from different developers that do not make device heat up so much
3) Do not put your phone into water because you don’t know how much seal is losing up from back cover, It’s better to check the seal from a mobile service shop. Because if once water get inside your device then your Xperia Z will be hard brick
4) If phone go overheating just open the ports like headphone,usb and etc.It help to air circulation in phone. this tip is provided by propov
About
I really don’t know why sony did not apply screw in the back cover of Xperia Z, this device is expensive, majority of people buy it after a lot of savings and in the end what we found a design disadvantage or fault
I am really wishing that sony will not do this thing with Xperia i1 Honami
During the heating,the overheat control comes into play..it lowers the cpu clock speed and cools the device..btw even during the case of extreme heating,the sealant won't wear off..it may melt if that's what u think,but it's waterproofing capabilities won't be gone...I've dipped my phone many times in water when I first bought the phone cuz the os wasn't that good then and was causing overheating constantly and it was working perfectly, no seepage in my phone and now it's a lot better after updating to 4.2.2 and my phone doesn't cross the 38C mark most of the time..
Hit thanks if I helped u.Sent from my Killer Xperia Z(C6602) using xda premium.
My Xperia Z's never managed to get past 35°.
Probably just because of the weather over here.
Sent from my 3rd (yes, that's right: 3rd) Xperia Z
xL3thalTuRdZz said:
My Xperia Z's never managed to get past 35°.
Probably just because of the weather over here.
Sent from my 3rd (yes, that's right: 3rd) Xperia Z
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
in you tube there are so many videos of heating test you can search and take a look
it shows 41 after playing games
GeoSpaceKing said:
During the heating,the overheat control comes into play..it lowers the cpu clock speed and cools the device..btw even during the case of extreme heating,the sealant won't wear off..it may melt if that's what u think,but it's waterproofing capabilities won't be gone...I've dipped my phone many times in water when I first bought the phone cuz the os wasn't that good then and was causing overheating constantly and it was working perfectly, no seepage in my phone and now it's a lot better after updating to 4.2.2 and my phone doesn't cross the 38C mark most of the time..
Hit thanks if I helped u.Sent from my Killer Xperia Z(C6602) using xda premium.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if it will not effect the seal then what you think on this http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2304680
look on top left side of this picture
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zohaib0001 said:
if it will not effect the seal then what you think on this http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2304680
look on top left side of this picture
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It may be some manufacturing defect bro..I've only said what I've been experiencing since I bought my XZ..I said the adhesive MIGHT melt during extreme heating but would cool down again..we have to be sensible enough not to try pulling out the cover at that time.. Other than that it is really a fine beauty
Hit thanks if I helped u.Sent from my Killer Xperia Z(C6602) using xda premium.
The reason why the XZ doesn't use screws is because screws are simply not tight enough to ensure a waterproof seal... thats why adhesive is used since it covers all entrance points into the phone
My XZL gets hot too....
pandaball said:
The reason why the XZ doesn't use screws is because screws are simply not tight enough to ensure a waterproof seal... thats why adhesive is used since it covers all entrance points into the phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In a way, what stopped Sony to use adhesive layer + screw and seal on screw to ensure 120% waterproof.....
Apparently lack of testing in extreme conditions..... Would not expect it from flagship development...
Well, I just hope that this "lifted back glass" issue is just attributed to very small scale of defected batch and the rest millions are not affected
This thread forced me to look at my device, and I'm a bit shocked to discover that after just 2 month of VERY GENTLE use, the pearl-color paint on the sides (I have a white XZ)
got a lot of chips and started to peal off on the corners..... WTF
I have the same problem with my Z, the back glass has lifted where the camera.
But I went to a swimming pool last weekend, and took some underwater pics, and till now no problem.
zohaib0001 said:
The Disadvantage of Xperia Z
Xperia Z heat up so much during use and it back cover reached up to 38 to 42 Degree temperature
If you are live in country where normal environment temperature is 35 to 45 then both these temperature together make heating up device more, that will be effect on the back cover seal. The life of the seal will also be affected with it
Here are some people who experience already that their device back cover is starting losing up
Here is the link for that please takes a look
Once this seal is losing up its mean our device is not water & dust proof now, and if you put your phone into water in this condition then you can hard brick it
Tips for avoid that
1) Do not use your phone up to that level where your device heated up so much until unless Sony improves the Rom, and heating up problem is solved
2) You can also use custom Rom from different developers that do not make device heat up so much
3) Do not put your phone into water because you don’t know how much seal is losing up from back cover, It’s better to check the seal from a mobile service shop. Because if once water get inside your device then your Xperia Z will be hard brick
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please tell me you do actually realise the heat guns in those videos you linked provide a lot more heat than your phone will reach during regular (or even excessive) use. Those guns probably provide around 300 degrees (yes, celsius) hot air, if not more (in fact, probably more). The phone has sensors which both clock down the CPU (to avoid heat) and eventually actually kill power altogether if the temperature is too high for an extended period (providing the OS is running normally and isn't locked up, if that is the case then you should go ahead and hold power and volume down for a few seconds until the screen goes blank).
Oh and climates where the temperature regularly gets to 35-42 degrees are not going to substantially lower the life expectancy of the seals either. Perhaps something like a few weeks in total at most, but then again it doesn't really work that way. Yes, if you leave it in the sun all day on a hot and windless day you might have a problem, but then again that really applies to all countries.
Stop scaring people into thinking their phone is about to fall apart if they play games for too long, that is not going to happen!
People, your phone is waterproof, but don't be ridiculous and go and use water to cool it or something like that, and don't be silly and leave it in a pool all day just because the box says it is waterproof. Instead, think of it as a comfort to not have to worry about your phone when it is raining or if you accidentally spill something on or around it.
Over 3 months daily use and no bulges or issues.
Sent from my C6603 using xda app-developers app
If phone go overheating just open the ports like headphone,usb and etc.It help to air circulation in phone.
Sory for my English!
propov said:
If phone go overheating just open the ports like headpohone,usb and etc.It help to air circilation in phone.
Sory for my English!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Highly doubtful, and don't blow into any of them either! Just put the phone down for a bit instead, perhaps onto something with good thermal conductivity like a piece of metal or something massive and cool like marble. Maybe turn off some graphics or processor heavy apps.
Modern day adhesives work way better then screws. they save space, weight and costs. They are used everywhere from cars to building construction.
Are they always perfect? well that depends on application and testing. Even Ferrari had some 458's catching on fire due to the adhesives overheating.
cy888 said:
Modern day adhesives work way better then screws. they save space, weight and costs. They are used everywhere from cars to building construction.
Are they always perfect? well that depends on application and testing. Even Ferrari had some 458's catching on fire due to the adhesives overheating.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol..but the phone ain't gonna catch fire in any case whatsoever and yup, adhesives these days are rapidly replacing screws and what I guess is the bulging of the back panel is due to some manufacturing defect,not due to heating of the adhesive..well maybe,unless they had pulled the back panel during that "extreme hot" window of 5 mins..it concludes xz rocks..
Sent from my Killer Xperia Z(C6602) using xda premium.
Rekoil said:
Please tell me you do actually realise the heat guns in those videos you linked provide a lot more heat than your phone will reach during regular (or even excessive) use. Those guns probably provide around 300 degrees (yes, celsius) hot air, if not more (in fact, probably more). The phone has sensors which both clock down the CPU (to avoid heat) and eventually actually kill power altogether if the temperature is too high for an extended period (providing the OS is running normally and isn't locked up, if that is the case then you should go ahead and hold power and volume down for a few seconds until the screen goes blank).
Oh and climates where the temperature regularly gets to 35-42 degrees are not going to substantially lower the life expectancy of the seals either. Perhaps something like a few weeks in total at most, but then again it doesn't really work that way. Yes, if you leave it in the sun all day on a hot and windless day you might have a problem, but then again that really applies to all countries.
Stop scaring people into thinking their phone is about to fall apart if they play games for too long, that is not going to happen!
People, your phone is waterproof, but don't be ridiculous and go and use water to cool it or something like that, and don't be silly and leave it in a pool all day just because the box says it is waterproof. Instead, think of it as a comfort to not have to worry about your phone when it is raining or if you accidentally spill something on or around it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you take me wrong
i am not here to provide any negativity about xperia z, or i am not scaring the people
i am just sharing information, and of course i am also want to buy xperia z and i will get it within this week so i am not against xperia z
i am just sharing information, if you think that the life of seal is not going to affect then it is your thought and i am sharing mine on the bases of reality with videos
propov said:
If phone go overheating just open the ports like headphone,usb and etc.It help to air circulation in phone.
Sory for my English!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your tip
zohaib0001 said:
Thanks for your tip
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since I also play games(RR3 and DH4) on my Z, whenever it gets hot, I just place it on the floor for 10 seconds. It cools down to a warmer temperature, enough to continue playing.
zohaib0001 said:
you take me wrong
i am not here to provide any negativity about xperia z, or i am not scaring the people
i am just sharing information, and of course i am also want to buy xperia z and i will get it within this week so i am not against xperia z
i am just sharing information, if you think that the life of seal is not going to affect then it is your thought and i am sharing mine on the bases of reality with videos
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah,.people are definitely free to do whatever to their phones.
Anyway, the phone is designed to be waterproof with the use of seals to keep water out. The electronic components inside are certainly not waterproof. If you see the back lifting, it means gaps (maybe very small) are formed somewhere underneath the back. It's similar to opening the phone up for repair.
It's just common sense that if you have a gap, water can go inside.
Hey guys,
I took a quick look inside the G Pad and want you to show how to open it and what it looks like there.
How to Open
What you need is a pry-tool, a small screw driver and some plectrums. Something to heat would be perfect as well.
First, you should remove the screw that is inside the microSD-slot:
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Next, you take the pry tool and get the device out of the chassis. Apply the pry-tool to the gap between frame and screen. As soon as you lifted off one of the short sides a bit, you stick there one of the plectrums carefully. Then you go on with the other sides.
When all sides are lifted off the device from the frame, you still won't be able to get rid of the rear panel. Unfortunately there is glue in the middle between battery and case, so a bit of heat wouldn't be bad. I took a blow-dryer to avoid bad times with my battery
Internals
And here we are:
You can clearly see the adhesive pad in the middle.
The case:
At the top of the picture between the two speaker-holes there is the serial number label as it is on the bottom of our back side. Right, you can see a thermal foil for the powerful chips. On the left side there is a little blue box. It could probably be the vibration motor (thanks to Ardion)
Closer look to the controllers:
After taking of the heatsink we get a look at the controller-chips. On the left side there is a Qualcomm PM8921 who cares for the power-management. The middle chip is still covered, I will embrace it later. The last chip is our NAND flash, it's a Toshiba THGBM5G7A2JBAIR
The top side:
At the very high top of the picture there is the 3.5mm sound-connector. Below is our microSD-Slot.
The flat wire that is mounted by two screws is from our battery. I have even found a spare part, so it would be possible to replace the battery.
The connector at the bottom of the picture leads us to the next part:
Power button and volume rockers:
Between the two volume buttons there is even a label LGV500 on it. So it might be a V500 exclusive part
Blame my camera for the bad macro function..
You are the SoC, aren't you?
So there we have a Hynix memory with H9TKNNNBPDMA-ARNGM on it. I couldn't find any information about it, but it seems that there is our RAM combined with the Snapdragon 600?
Mainboard detached
There we have our two cameras. The left one as rear-facing and the right one front-facing.
Mainboard the other way round
Not much to see, but there is a black box at the right. There a two bulbs, one should be the brightness-sensor, but the other one?
Don't use the tab in the bathtub
The paper strip with crosses seems to be a indicator for the manufacturer. If you have a damage caused by water the crosses will disappear and LG won't be your friend any more. It is very clever placed at the SD-card-slot, where the water-cooling will first take effect
Sh1tty camera
There you have the rear-facing camera. I wasn't able to get it out of there, probably I have to dismount the board first..
Down left of the camera, there is our IR-blaster.
The Battery
There it is. 4.600 mAh
Worst speaker of the world
With my first G Pad I had trouble with one of the speakers. It sounded very muffled and vibrated a lot. The new one sounds better, but not more..
The whole speaker strip is attached by three screws. The one at the bottom right didn't want to go my way, so I had to stop disassembling
The bottom side
ATMEL controller in the middle. Could be the touchscreen-controller (thanks to Ardion)
USB connector
At the left side you can see the USB connector. At the right there seems to be the microphone. The two connectors between them are connected to the blue box that I have already mentioned.
Summing up, it's no easy job to get to the battery. There are a lot of flat wires that have first to be disconnected. A lot things have to be dismounted as well.
The mainboard on the other side is good accessible and can be replaced easily.
That's all, I hope you liked it.
Replacing the screen
Turn over to iruiz2's post to see additional pictures and get to know how to replace the screen:
iruiz2 said:
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think the Atmel chip at the bottom is a touchscreen controller.
The little blue box looks like the vibration motor.
Great job! If you discover a replacement battery somewhere, please update with that information.
woody1 said:
Great job! If you discover a replacement battery somewhere, please update with that information.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good news!
I just searched again and actually I found one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bateria-Bat...101-BL-T10-4600mAh-New-ORIGINAL-/161171869316 :good::good:
Start post is edited.
It would be great if someone could make a battery replacement tutorial video. I mean when the time is right, I guess the batteries are too new to be replaced!
Sent from my LG-V500 using xda app-developers app
sergio7676 said:
It would be great if someone could make a battery replacement tutorial video.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will think about it. Cause it should be enough to detach the upper and lower wires. Though this is no easy intervention as there is a wire adhesived near the USB connector.
I added two pictures with the mainboard detached.
So that is a lot easier than the battery..
Perhaps there is enough space to adapt and inegrate a qi-receiver!
Cheers
Spock
LtSpock said:
Perhaps there is enough space to adapt and inegrate a qi-receiver!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think that this is a good idea. The metallic backside would shield the magnetic radiation and you wouldn't get any power
Interesting thread thanks! If I were to take my tab apart I would never be able to put it back together again in working order
Must require a great deal of skill & patience to do this.
Great job. I was wondering how to open up this baby. Now I know this has a one piece back plate.
How long did your blow dry it? Have you tried to remove the glue and see if it loose or make any squeaky noises?
cutterline said:
How long did your blow dry it? Have you tried to remove the glue and see if it loose or make any squeaky noises?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't need much heat. I just used it about half a minute and then the glue loses his power. With constant force to the back plate you can feel how the glue-strip is slowly peeling away from the back plate.
I haven't tried to remove the glue, cause it is attached to the battery..
Thanks for the reply.
Do you have the service manual before doing this or just found it out after tinkering for a while?
If you have the service manual, can you share the link? It seems I couldn't find them (including the GPE pad v510)
No service manual. I tried it myself
What a great man! Thank you for bestowing a good knowledge upon mankind especially lg g pad user
It would be more awesome if you can record the process of disassembling the case apart.
This thread needs to be in a sticky.
cutterline said:
What a great man! Thank you for bestowing a good knowledge upon mankind especially lg g pad user
It would be more awesome if you can record the process of disassembling the case apart.
This thread needs to be in a sticky.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks!
I will think about it soon. First, I have to order a tripod for my cam
Really interesting, thanks! I love people who risk bricking their device for the good of the community :good:
think there's space to hide a full-size SD card with a (SD->microSD) adapter inside?
eg:
http://www.dx.com/p/sd-to-microsd-transflash-card-converter-module-27001
https://www.google.com/search?site=&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1120&bih=612&q=SD+to+microSD
paperWastage said:
think there's space to hide a full-size SD card with a (SD->microSD) adapter inside?
eg:
http://www.dx.com/p/sd-to-microsd-transflash-card-converter-module-27001
https://www.google.com/search?site=&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1120&bih=612&q=SD+to+microSD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The only possible space would be between battery and back-cover. But I dunno whether 0.16 in are free there, it might be less.
I could measure it for you when I am shooting the video.
USB connector replacement?
Can anyone advise if it's possible to replace the USB connector?
I spilled a tiny amount of water my G Pad. I didn't think it got to the internals, but after charging it overnight the cable was stuck in the connector (like really stuck) and had obviously baked itself in.
I got it loose after spraying with isopropyl alcohol, and it somehow still charges, but the connection is bad and getting worse.
Any clues?
Meh, might as well. Repost from OnePlus Forums.
Update: finally added the Note 2 battery's weight
Tip: resize the browser window to make the thread more readable.
I should add that I facilitate no allegiance to any particular phone brand, nor am I sponsored by any phone brand. I work for myself, and make my own decisions based on fact, not personal biases. I love the OnePlus One as a phone, I just don't like what the company is doing to their customers.
It all started when I created a thread about the iPhone 5C's battery being able to be upgraded. I was then met with the question: "Why didn't OnePlus make the battery on its One removable? Another manufacturer, Samsung, could make a phone that had a larger removable battery in a form factor that was thinner and shorter than the OPO, even with the addition of a MicroSD slot and a USB 3.0 port." I was informed that OnePlus chose to make their battery non-removable, because if they did, it would end up being a 2500 mAh cell, 80% that of the current 3100 mAh, due to the inclusion of a protective shell, regulatory circuitry, spring contacts etc.
Then I thought, "Weird; the 5" Samsung Galaxy S4 has a removable battery, but it has a 2600 mAh battery!" So to settle things once and for all (for now), I went ahead and disassembled my OnePlus One, to compare its internal battery's volume with a removable equivalent, the Samsung Galaxy Note 2's (also 3100 mAh). Seeing that OnePlus warranty is near non-existent anyway, even if the phone did fail or malfunction due to manufacturer fault, I'd just get another phone to save the trouble of going through RMA hell.
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Centimeter grid, for your convenience
Now, I'm not going to dissect the batteries; rechargeable cells are very dangerous, and can explode if punctured. So, I measured the dimensions of both batteries to calculate their respective volumes. I didn't have a digital scale on me, so I couldn't calculate the energy density of Li-ion (Note 2) vs. LiPo (OPO).
The dimensions (in milimeters) of the batteries are as follows:
OnePlus One
Length: 83.39 mm
Width: 57.84 mm
Thickness: 4.38 mm
Volume: 21125.96 cubic mm
Energy Density (power/weight): 230.98 Wh/kg
Volumetric Mass Density (weight/volume): 0.0024 g/cubic mm
Note 2
Length: 75.00 mm
Width: 55.44 mm
Thickness: 5.65 mm
Volume: 23492.7 cubic mm
Energy Density (power/weight): 226.54 Wh/kg
Volumetric Mass Density (weight/volume): 0.0022 g/cubic mm
This makes the volume of the OnePlus One's battery 89.9% that of the Note 2's, so the percentage difference is only 10.1%. Keep in mind that this is lithium ion vs. lithium polymer. Li-ions need more protective circuitry to prevent overcharging and exploding and whatnot, compared to their LiPo counterparts. And from what I heard, LiPos have a higher energy density than Li-ions, which is why I wanted to calculate how much the batteries weighed as well.
Edit: The OnePlus One's battery has a comparatively higher energy density (1.8% higher), a smaller volume, and a higher mass density (8.3%!!!!) than the Note 2's, meaning a LiPo battery should provide more power than a Li-ion of the same weight and volume. But, since the difference is so small, it's probably going to cancel out once we take into account the protective shell and protection circuits and whatnot. In conclusion, the point below still stands due to the negligible difference because it is calculated based on the removable equivalent having around the same specifications.
Just going by these numbers, a removable equivalent for the OnePlus should be roughly 2780 mAh (10.4% decrease), not 2500 as OnePlus has claimed (a ~20% decrease). Of course, this is inconclusive, but this should give you a better idea of what's actually happening here.
The Galaxy S4 featured here is the LTE-A version, sporting a Snapdragon 800 chipset, more closely related to the OPO's Snapdragon 801 compared to the Snapdragon 600 S4.
I have discovered that the OnePlus's processor may not be adequately cooled. Since smartphones are passive devices, they aren't actively cooled by fans like computers are, so they rely on heat dissipation through the use of a heatsink of some sort.
The Samsung Galaxy S4's chassis is made of magnesium alloy, just not as abundantly so as the OPO. The logic board well is form-fitting, and there are thermal pads that contact the underside of the logic board to the chassis in order to dissipate heat. Since the chassis is so big, heat is easily dissipated.
The OPO, however, looks like it's insulated at the area where the chipset is closest to the chassis with what seems to be carbon paper/film. Now, I'm no materials expert (and correct me if I'm wrong), but I'm pretty sure carbon in this state should act as an insulator. I say this because iPhones use the same stuff on the chassis to protect the LCD from heat damage (on the iPhone, the film is on the LCD side and not the logic board side).
On the underside of the logic board, we see that there's a steel cage covering the on-board components, covered by a thermal pad.
What does this mean? It means that under load, a Samsung phone will feel hotter to the touch, because that's the passive cooling system in action. In the case of the OnePlus one, it might not feel as hot as a Samsung under similar loads, but when it does get hot, it's really, really hot. So hot that the small heatsink and carbon film can't contain or dissipate it.
For size comparison purposes, here's the Galaxy S4's logic board next to the OPO's. Remember that the S4 is a 5 inch phone.
Assembly was probably quite sloppy; the tape used to insulate the speaker contacts is off-center on the left speaker.
The weak vibrate motor cannot be upgraded, as it is soldered to the flex.
The earpiece grille is centered on the front of the phone, but it is offset to the left internally because the camera module takes up the space in the center, as can be seen below. This may or may not contribute to the low earpiece volume, since it is channeled.
The rear microphone (pictured below) is also offset slightly lower than the hole next to the rear camera. Outside, the hole is parallel to the center-point of the camera lens, but internally, it is parallel to the top of the flash LED closest to the camera. I'm not sure how effective this placement is. The top microphone (refer to picture above, left of front camera hole) is channeled.
I should update my signature.
Nice!!
Sent from my crispy bacon
This is what i call informative!Thank you @vantt1
Very informative, thank you.
Thanks was it that difficult?
Hit Thanks if I Helped
~Codename Android~
Thank You. So how hard would it be to replace the battery when the original starts dying?
Good work!
Sent via quantum entanglement, focused through my OnePlus One.
This was amazingly informative, one of the best posts I've seen in awhile! Kudos mate
It's hard to tell the thermal conductivity of carbon because it largely depends on the allotrope (type of carbon).
carbon is an excellent heat conductor, it even better than metal.
janice1234 said:
carbon is an excellent heat conductor, it even better than metal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It depends on what form of carbon - some are excellent but others are mediocre, at best.
gavin-phelan said:
Thanks was it that difficult?
Hit Thanks if I Helped
~Codename Android~
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not that difficult, I've had difficult-er
someth1ng said:
It's hard to tell the thermal conductivity of carbon because it largely depends on the allotrope (type of carbon).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, that's why I was "pretty sure" and not "completely sure". I have yet to find any straight answers as to whether if carbon is a conductor or insulator.
I know for a fact that iPhones have a similar sticker on their chassis. It's found on the midframe between the LCD and the logic board, and it is stuck on the LCD side. It is commonly called the heat shield, meaning it protects the LCD from the logic board's heat. Since it's on the LCD side and not the logic board side, I'm more inclined to think it's an insulator.
iPhone 4:
iPhone 5S:
It would make no sense for it to be a conductor, or else it'd conduct the heat to the LCD.
Great informative post... Thx for the teardown.
Tap'd via 1+1
Great post, thank you
Worth it to just to see the rd battery !!!
nice work thanks,
I'll open mine as soon they release the kevlar back ! :silly:
Does LiPo also have a limited number of charges like Li-ion? Will we have to deal with shorter battery life as it ages?
nice work!
nice work!
Thank you so much!
Thanks,
Excellent work. You're a braver man than I for sure!!!!!!
Question: Did you get it back together and did it work???
Seems like a lot of us are like 12 year old little boys.
Take it apart and worry about the rest later, right???
Ken
notesbancales said:
Worth it to just to see the rd battery !!!
nice work thanks,
I'll open mine as soon they release the kevlar back ! :silly:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think OnePlus canceled all the StyleSwap covers for good.
clevebb said:
Does LiPo also have a limited number of charges like Li-ion? Will we have to deal with shorter battery life as it ages?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it does. All batteries, li-ion and LiPo, will decrease in capacity the more charge cycles it goes through.
kenfb1 said:
Thanks,
Excellent work. You're a braver man than I for sure!!!!!!
Question: Did you get it back together and did it work???
Seems like a lot of us are like 12 year old little boys.
Take it apart and worry about the rest later, right???
Ken
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course!
Very detailed indeed, so how hard do you think it is to replace the screen/digitizer?
Thanks
As you may know, our beloved smartphone suffers from some overheating problem, due to the powerful Snapdragon 810 that use.
Its cores are the real "cores" of the problem: Qualcomm has adopted pure ARM reference design instead their revised versions, that creates more trouble than it should;
No custom kernel or other things really solve the problem and the results are bad performances in heavy load scenario (multitasking or gaming) and more heat than usual.
To be honest, I never had any particular problems with my M9, but wanted to try something that I also done on my old M7: disassemble the phone and apply a serious-level thermal grease to make sure to put processor die in contact with the metal body!
Well, let's start!
Here's what I am faced: a carefully disassembled One M9 (iFixit exhaustively explains how to do that) and, at my discretion, the best thermal paste on the market, the Artic MX-4.
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Now i gently opened the metal coverage of components and ... There is our processor!
At this point, i have to remove the old (and inefficient) thermal pad applied by the factory.
-In the photo i've already partially removed it.
The instant after the compound application.
Pressure will definitely flatten it; it's also a large surplus but in that way i'm sure that it will cover the entire surface of the processor and also the surroundings. (no problem, it does not conduct electricity)
After closing the coverage, I applied a dose of thermal paste also on it, to bring together the processor with the outside of the smartphone, according to the scheme below.
Now we're ready to clo...HEY! wait, wait, wait, is a missing screw what I just saw?
YES! and also explains my perception of the slightly lower volume from the bottom speaker!
Fortunately, M7 screw are compatible... screwed and fixed!
... is not an oversight that I would expect from this flagship device...
...as I was saying, I reassembled the smartphone.
No one will notice anything, like new!
And now, you will expect results ... here they are!
I made this improvement more than one month ago, at the time I done many many tests, i also take screenshots, but they're totally useless at the moment, because what you should know is the following;
In addition to the significant drop in temperature outside of the phone, as I noticed with my old M7, I have seen an unexpected increase in battery life of 10% of the daily average, really not bad!
And the temperature of the processor? It's now under control! Even under full load, the temperature increases gradually and slowly, without peaks and never exceed 45 degrees on the cores, even after several minutes of use.
In normal use, temperature is a few degrees above the ambient one.
To ensure that my system works well I did a little test... I launched a benchmark app (viewing onscreen temp) and after a few minutes I put an ice cube on the back of the phone, just above the processor position: I assisted to an insane temperature drop, from 45 to 7 degrees Celsius within 8-10 seconds!
What to say, I am pleased of the change I made to my M9, now the problem is not completely resolved but it is dammed.
Remember, I shared with you my experience for information, I do not assume liability for damage to your smartphone!
Awesome. I wish i had the balls to do this. Kudos sir. Amaze balls work.
Oh God, the HTC M9 isnt overheating. Its a bit hotter (Allmost between 5 to 8 Degress then other Flagships) and ony because it uses a Aluminium-Unibody which transports heat more effective. I Bet, others would get as hot as the M9, if they used a Metall Unibody.
And for me : Better a Metall Unibody then Plastic or Glas (which can break easilly (See here Xperia Z3 and Z3 Compact)).
I've tested the Galaxy S6 and the M9 some weeks ago with a Laser-Thermometer (Ambient Temp was 26 °C in my Room) :
After 5 runs Antutu :
M9 = 52,3 °C
S6 = 48,4 °C
After 5 Runs (3D Mark)
M9 = 54,1 °C
S6 = 48,7 °C
So there is no real difference, and the Scores even didnt decreased much on the M9. (from 59,435 to 57,897 Antutu) (S6 : 73,185 to 71,321)
this is a tricky mod to do id say. the better solution would of been if htc went with the 808 processor.
yeah.. the idea behind what i've done was to take all the advantages that an alluminum cover can do in thermal excange.
in that way the heat that the processor produce is immediately brought to the outside of the phone
Nice! Thanks for sharing this
Will definitely try this once I had the balls to do so.
oh my god I am a guitarist and have a pick in the hand. but as I tried to pull of just the top piece and saw glue removing I had fear that could be noticeable once you reassembly it. like parts not sticking right.
last time I disassembly a hd2 it was a mess, I broke 2 flats ahahaha
WOW...holy crap! i just did this mod and im telling you it IS NOT for the faint of heart. the all aluminum frame can bend and scratch easy if your not careful. i was able to do it and assemble the best i could like stock but this WILL void all and any warranty. scared the crap out of me because at first the device would not boot until i plugged it into a charger. :/ be very aware that when you separate the two halfs of the phone there is "very strong" adhesive tape holding the camera to the board. i used arctic silver cpu paste and its too soon to tell but i can say the device is much cooler under cpuz stats. im hoping this might improve battery life as well. soo far everything on the device works.
heres the guide to ifixit. https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/HTC+One+M9+Teardown/39166
Nice!
I just did the procedure described here. I'll post back with results if there's any change.
fix-this! said:
WOW...holy crap! i just did this mod and im telling you it IS NOT for the faint of heart. the all aluminum frame can bend and scratch easy if your not careful. i was able to do it and assemble the best i could like stock but this WILL void all and any warranty. scared the crap out of me because at first the device would not boot until i plugged it into a charger. :/ be very aware that when you separate the two halfs of the phone there is "very strong" adhesive tape holding the camera to the board. i used arctic silver cpu paste and its too soon to tell but i can say the device is much cooler under cpuz stats. im hoping this might improve battery life as well. soo far everything on the device works.
heres the guide to ifixit. https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/HTC+One+M9+Teardown/39166
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ahhhhhhhhhh you're crazy! artic silver is an electrical conductor! you must (or would have had to) use a ceramic or carbon compound!
I hope for you that pressure and time won't let it overflows on the motherboard!
p.s. after i disassembled my one m7 (photo), nothing scares me anymore (i'm still using it)
After 6 months of use I'd say overheating problems are long gone, but this is always a good practice, thanks for sharing this . Even after playing Need for Speed: No Limits for more than an hour the top temperature was 43 Celsius on my M9, that's pretty standard.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm
according to this it wont be an issue. im not overly concerned.
fix-this! said:
http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm
according to this it wont be an issue. im not overly concerned.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
"(While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.)"
Valerio-M8 said:
"(While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.)"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And what makes you think that Arctic MX-4 is any different? MX-4 contains 40% metallic aluminum, so it's not electrically inert either. They both use an oil (silicone oil or ester oil) as a carrier.
mike.s said:
And what makes you think that Arctic MX-4 is any different? MX-4 contains 40% metallic aluminum, so it's not electrically inert either. They both use an oil (silicone oil or ester oil) as a carrier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/mx-4.html
-"It does not contain any metallic particles so electical conductivity would not be an issue. Unlike silver and copper compound, it ensures that contact with any electrical pins would not result in damage of any sort."
-"The ARCTIC MX-4 compound is composed of carbon micro-particles [...]"
Arctic MX-4 EC safety data sheet: "Aluminium 40% CAS 7429-90-5"
In any case, both manufacturers assert their products are non-conductive, so you're knocking down a straw man. The question was in regard to a potential effect on interlead capacitance, about which the marketing fluff you mentioned says nothing. MX-4 uses a silicone oil, which has a dielectric constant of in the 2.5 range. Ester oil as used in AC5 is similar (high 2.x). There's no reason to believe they're significantly different electrically, yet you hype one as "the best," and warn against using the other. I think you've just fallen for marketing.
how has this mod panned out for anyone who did it?
Great mod, now i can play heavy games
does this mod actually work? also what the best thermal paste to use for this mod or would a replacement thermal pad be better?
thanks
Techfan3000 said:
does this mod actually work? also what the best thermal paste to use for this mod or would a replacement thermal pad be better?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, i've used AAB thermal paste and it's ok, thermal paste is always better than thermal pad in my opinion.
Yo gents, let's discuss about this awesome hobby(or maybe business for some of you?) which is growing a lot since several years and also affordable more and more.
I'm using a modified Ender 3 v2 within a closet to keep temps close with ABS:
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What Printer are you using?
Or do you just want some advice which one to buy?
What slicers do you use?
Materials you prefer?
What 3D modeling software(Fusion 360, FreeCad, Tinkercad, Solid Works)?
What have you designed and printed?
Are you using custom firmware or compile your own one?
Let's see some comments!
res
You 3D printed a soap?
karandpr said:
You 3D printed a soap?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nah, its the soap tray silly!
karandpr said:
You 3D printed a soap?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, the soapholder, but yeah, you can also 3d print a soap, depending how soft(or not) your skin is, you need a "harder" soap
Yep, I've been 3D printing for around 8 months now. Absolutely love it. It can be very addictive and satisfying, but can also be one of the most frustrating things when it doesn't go quite right!
I also use an Ender 3 V2. I find it does everything I need it to. I've mostly been making functional stuff like you have in the photos. Mainly use PLA+ and occasional PETG.
I've always used Cura, and printing via OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pie. Been doing some reading on Klipper, and may have a play with that sometime.
I'm currently printing some autorewind filament spool holders. Some people are so smart to come up with engineered stuff like this. It blows me away.
I am a total noob regarding 3D printing, my son who is 14 y/o had the chance to get one for Christmas (group gift from our family). He's so lucky.
He owns a Creality CR-10S Pro V2
He knows a lot more than me already, he learnt how to use it at school. He has no account on XDA, so I will possibly post here on his behalf, LOL.
Let's clear this out, that was not a hidden self-gift!! but now that he owns it, our family and I will profit for sure
> First tests:
Day one
Day two
There is no much potential with those 3D printers!
I think having a section on XDA is great and I hope people will share their knowledge, files, firmware, etc.
I have an Ender-3 Pro. My favorite filament is a silver PLA, creates great looking objects.
Haven't spent much time with it lately but my first mod would definitely be a self-leveller as the hardest thing is getting it levelled and then having to print something to make sure it's actually levelled properly.
But, lots of fun, and the kids (and me) really enjoy the prints!
bitpushr said:
I have an Ender-3 Pro. My favorite filament is a silver PLA, creates great looking objects.
Haven't spent much time with it lately but my first mod would definitely be a self-leveller as the hardest thing is getting it levelled and then having to print something to make sure it's actually levelled properly.
But, lots of fun, and the kids (and me) really enjoy the prints!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Replacing the stock soft bed level springs with silicon bumpers or stiffer springs can help a lot even without auto bed leveling
What Printer are you using?
Or do you just want some advice which one to buy?
What slicers do you use?
Materials you prefer?
What 3D modeling software(Fusion 360, FreeCad, Tinkercad, Solid Works)?
What have you designed and printed?
Are you using custom firmware or compile your own one?
I usually use an Ender 3 pro V1, and mostly PLA and PET-G, The best material for me is a gray PLA from Polymaker.
I use a Cura 3D slicer, and Fusion 360 for modelling. What have i designed and printed? Many things. For example, now i am building a chassis frame for Autel evo 2 pro drone, sometimes i print also parts for home used things, like a blender or smth... But mostly i design and print parts for drones.
macizet_legacy said:
What Printer are you using?
Or do you just want some advice which one to buy?
What slicers do you use?
Materials you prefer?
What 3D modeling software(Fusion 360, FreeCad, Tinkercad, Solid Works)?
What have you designed and printed?
Are you using custom firmware or compile your own one?
I usually use an Ender 3 pro V1, and mostly PLA and PET-G, The best material for me is a gray PLA from Polymaker.
I use a Cura 3D slicer, and Fusion 360 for modelling. What have i designed and printed? Many things. For example, now i am building a chassis frame for Autel evo 2 pro drone, sometimes i print also parts for home used things, like a blender or smth... But mostly i design and print parts for drones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, thanks for the insight! Any mods on your printer or custom firmware?
Do you have link for the gray Polymaker PLA as I want to try Polymaker... Currently I'm using gray Geeetech PLA which is good imo.
strongst said:
Cool, thanks for the insight! Any mods on your printer or custom firmware?
Do you have link for the gray Polymaker PLA as I want to try Polymaker... Currently I'm using gray Geeetech PLA which is good imo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't use firmware mods on my Ender, but I've printed these things from thingiverse:
Ender 3 Display LCD PCB Cover by Rocco81-92
A tip as appreciation is welcome. Backcover for the new Ender-3 Display. Hi, i used four countersunk (2x M3x10 / 2x M3x16 (M3x18 work too) 02.12.2018 added a new version on request from "DOC73", a version for 3 plug use. 16.08.2018 added two new closed Versions for factory srews, one with...
www.thingiverse.com
Creality Ender-3 Display Ribbon Cable Clip by gn-jr
Clip to tide up ribbon cable from controller to display Ender-3 Printer, print it sideway so you don't need any support.
www.thingiverse.com
Ender 3 / CR-10 Tool Holder by DantRush
This is a press-fit tool holder for the creality Ender 3. It's super easy to mount and it doesn't need to screw anything. UPDATE! I updated a second file which can also hold the scrapper tool without any bolts. FILES: tool_holder - The one without scrapper (Printed in grey)...
www.thingiverse.com
Ender 3 Cable Chain by johnniewhiskey
Update [10:53 PM 2018-06-16] Added parts assembly guide image cableChain_link_v3.stl Not constraint hinge to 1 direction anymore (But v2 still work fine) 15 links for heatbed, 10-15 links for gantry. cableChain_bedCorner_v2.stl (and Cover) Easier Snap assembly and disassembly...
www.thingiverse.com
And here's the link for polymaker :
PolyLite Polymaker 1,75 mm PLA 750 g / rolka Czarno-biały / biały / szary Filament do drukarki 3D
Tylko US$46.19, kup najlepszy sklep internetowy PolyLite Polymaker 1,75 mm PLA Filament do drukarki 3D 750g / rolka czarny / biały / szary w cenie hurtowej.
pl.banggood.com
I hope that will help
macizet_legacy said:
I don't use firmware mods on my Ender, but I've printed these things from thingiverse:
Ender 3 Display LCD PCB Cover by Rocco81-92
A tip as appreciation is welcome. Backcover for the new Ender-3 Display. Hi, i used four countersunk (2x M3x10 / 2x M3x16 (M3x18 work too) 02.12.2018 added a new version on request from "DOC73", a version for 3 plug use. 16.08.2018 added two new closed Versions for factory srews, one with...
www.thingiverse.com
Creality Ender-3 Display Ribbon Cable Clip by gn-jr
Clip to tide up ribbon cable from controller to display Ender-3 Printer, print it sideway so you don't need any support.
www.thingiverse.com
Ender 3 / CR-10 Tool Holder by DantRush
This is a press-fit tool holder for the creality Ender 3. It's super easy to mount and it doesn't need to screw anything. UPDATE! I updated a second file which can also hold the scrapper tool without any bolts. FILES: tool_holder - The one without scrapper (Printed in grey)...
www.thingiverse.com
Ender 3 Cable Chain by johnniewhiskey
Update [10:53 PM 2018-06-16] Added parts assembly guide image cableChain_link_v3.stl Not constraint hinge to 1 direction anymore (But v2 still work fine) 15 links for heatbed, 10-15 links for gantry. cableChain_bedCorner_v2.stl (and Cover) Easier Snap assembly and disassembly...
www.thingiverse.com
And here's the link for polymaker :
PolyLite Polymaker 1,75 mm PLA 750 g / rolka Czarno-biały / biały / szary Filament do drukarki 3D
Tylko US$46.19, kup najlepszy sklep internetowy PolyLite Polymaker 1,75 mm PLA Filament do drukarki 3D 750g / rolka czarny / biały / szary w cenie hurtowej.
pl.banggood.com
I hope that will help
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Thanks, you're using Poly Lite not PolyTerra? I wanted to try PolyTerra as I want to get rid of the empty plastic spools(and I already have spool container)
strongst said:
Thanks, you're using Poly Lite not PolyTerra? I wanted to try PolyTerra as I want to get rid of the empty plastic spools(and I already have spool container)
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Yup, i am using poly lite i've never tried polyterra, maybe it's time to try
stevejhons12 said:
Yes, I've been 3D printing for around 2 years now. I absolutely like it. It can be very addictive and satisfying, but can also be one of the most frustrating things when it doesn't go quite right!
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Bed leveling for example
Do you also use acetone / pla
strongst said:
Yo gents, let's discuss about this awesome hobby(or maybe business for some of you?) which is growing a lot since several years and also affordable more and more.
I'm using a modified Ender 3 v2 within a closet to keep temps close with ABS:
View attachment 5500647
What Printer are you using?
Or do you just want some advice which one to buy?
What slicers do you use?
Materials you prefer?
What 3D modeling software(Fusion 360, FreeCad, Tinkercad, Solid Works)?
What have you designed and printed?
Are you using custom firmware or compile your own one?
Let's see some comments!
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Do you also use acetone / plastic mixtures to secure your print to the table?
Just wondering if maybe my humidity changes a lot compared to other people.
Thanks!
hwk2014 said:
Do you also use acetone / pla
Do you also use acetone / plastic mixtures to secure your print to the table?
Just wondering if maybe my humidity changes a lot compared to other people.
Thanks!
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Most stickness problems occur due to bad bed leving or temperature changes. But also false temperatures can have an impact. Which setting do you use?
Acetone and PLA don't work, PLA is acetone safe. Acetone only works with ABS.
I'm using a double sided steel bed with a PEI or rough coating which works fine with PLA and PETG(which has a strong bed adhesion and can damage glass beds)
{Mod edit: Quoted post has been deleted}
Depends on your budget, the max object size and technology?!
Ripped the ribbon cable for the LCD on my Elegoo Mars resin printer when changing the fan for something a little quieter. Must have been absolutely rough as a dog with it
Didn't realise until I tried to print something and nothing printed after a couple hours, thought maybe my print got stuck to the FEP but no it was a ripped ribbon cable on the LCD.
Finally the new screen came today and we are all up and running again.
All I've been hearing from my 3 year old the last week is "Daaaaaaaad? Where's my paw patrol badge, you said you would make me a paw patrol badge"
Finally she has her badge to colour in for the day. Happy kid, happy daddy
Additionally, I employ Creality Ender 3 V2. This is extremely great, however I'm using an Ideamaker slicer, PLA and ABS materials, Thinkercad software, and my own custom firmware. Everything is fine, however the printed object doesn't have sharp, distinct edges.