Yo gents, let's discuss about this awesome hobby(or maybe business for some of you?) which is growing a lot since several years and also affordable more and more.
I'm using a modified Ender 3 v2 within a closet to keep temps close with ABS:
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What Printer are you using?
Or do you just want some advice which one to buy?
What slicers do you use?
Materials you prefer?
What 3D modeling software(Fusion 360, FreeCad, Tinkercad, Solid Works)?
What have you designed and printed?
Are you using custom firmware or compile your own one?
Let's see some comments!
res
You 3D printed a soap?
karandpr said:
You 3D printed a soap?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nah, its the soap tray silly!
karandpr said:
You 3D printed a soap?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, the soapholder, but yeah, you can also 3d print a soap, depending how soft(or not) your skin is, you need a "harder" soap
Yep, I've been 3D printing for around 8 months now. Absolutely love it. It can be very addictive and satisfying, but can also be one of the most frustrating things when it doesn't go quite right!
I also use an Ender 3 V2. I find it does everything I need it to. I've mostly been making functional stuff like you have in the photos. Mainly use PLA+ and occasional PETG.
I've always used Cura, and printing via OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pie. Been doing some reading on Klipper, and may have a play with that sometime.
I'm currently printing some autorewind filament spool holders. Some people are so smart to come up with engineered stuff like this. It blows me away.
I am a total noob regarding 3D printing, my son who is 14 y/o had the chance to get one for Christmas (group gift from our family). He's so lucky.
He owns a Creality CR-10S Pro V2
He knows a lot more than me already, he learnt how to use it at school. He has no account on XDA, so I will possibly post here on his behalf, LOL.
Let's clear this out, that was not a hidden self-gift!! but now that he owns it, our family and I will profit for sure
> First tests:
Day one
Day two
There is no much potential with those 3D printers!
I think having a section on XDA is great and I hope people will share their knowledge, files, firmware, etc.
I have an Ender-3 Pro. My favorite filament is a silver PLA, creates great looking objects.
Haven't spent much time with it lately but my first mod would definitely be a self-leveller as the hardest thing is getting it levelled and then having to print something to make sure it's actually levelled properly.
But, lots of fun, and the kids (and me) really enjoy the prints!
bitpushr said:
I have an Ender-3 Pro. My favorite filament is a silver PLA, creates great looking objects.
Haven't spent much time with it lately but my first mod would definitely be a self-leveller as the hardest thing is getting it levelled and then having to print something to make sure it's actually levelled properly.
But, lots of fun, and the kids (and me) really enjoy the prints!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Replacing the stock soft bed level springs with silicon bumpers or stiffer springs can help a lot even without auto bed leveling
What Printer are you using?
Or do you just want some advice which one to buy?
What slicers do you use?
Materials you prefer?
What 3D modeling software(Fusion 360, FreeCad, Tinkercad, Solid Works)?
What have you designed and printed?
Are you using custom firmware or compile your own one?
I usually use an Ender 3 pro V1, and mostly PLA and PET-G, The best material for me is a gray PLA from Polymaker.
I use a Cura 3D slicer, and Fusion 360 for modelling. What have i designed and printed? Many things. For example, now i am building a chassis frame for Autel evo 2 pro drone, sometimes i print also parts for home used things, like a blender or smth... But mostly i design and print parts for drones.
macizet_legacy said:
What Printer are you using?
Or do you just want some advice which one to buy?
What slicers do you use?
Materials you prefer?
What 3D modeling software(Fusion 360, FreeCad, Tinkercad, Solid Works)?
What have you designed and printed?
Are you using custom firmware or compile your own one?
I usually use an Ender 3 pro V1, and mostly PLA and PET-G, The best material for me is a gray PLA from Polymaker.
I use a Cura 3D slicer, and Fusion 360 for modelling. What have i designed and printed? Many things. For example, now i am building a chassis frame for Autel evo 2 pro drone, sometimes i print also parts for home used things, like a blender or smth... But mostly i design and print parts for drones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, thanks for the insight! Any mods on your printer or custom firmware?
Do you have link for the gray Polymaker PLA as I want to try Polymaker... Currently I'm using gray Geeetech PLA which is good imo.
strongst said:
Cool, thanks for the insight! Any mods on your printer or custom firmware?
Do you have link for the gray Polymaker PLA as I want to try Polymaker... Currently I'm using gray Geeetech PLA which is good imo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't use firmware mods on my Ender, but I've printed these things from thingiverse:
Ender 3 Display LCD PCB Cover by Rocco81-92
A tip as appreciation is welcome. Backcover for the new Ender-3 Display. Hi, i used four countersunk (2x M3x10 / 2x M3x16 (M3x18 work too) 02.12.2018 added a new version on request from "DOC73", a version for 3 plug use. 16.08.2018 added two new closed Versions for factory srews, one with...
www.thingiverse.com
Creality Ender-3 Display Ribbon Cable Clip by gn-jr
Clip to tide up ribbon cable from controller to display Ender-3 Printer, print it sideway so you don't need any support.
www.thingiverse.com
Ender 3 / CR-10 Tool Holder by DantRush
This is a press-fit tool holder for the creality Ender 3. It's super easy to mount and it doesn't need to screw anything. UPDATE! I updated a second file which can also hold the scrapper tool without any bolts. FILES: tool_holder - The one without scrapper (Printed in grey)...
www.thingiverse.com
Ender 3 Cable Chain by johnniewhiskey
Update [10:53 PM 2018-06-16] Added parts assembly guide image cableChain_link_v3.stl Not constraint hinge to 1 direction anymore (But v2 still work fine) 15 links for heatbed, 10-15 links for gantry. cableChain_bedCorner_v2.stl (and Cover) Easier Snap assembly and disassembly...
www.thingiverse.com
And here's the link for polymaker :
PolyLite Polymaker 1,75 mm PLA 750 g / rolka Czarno-biały / biały / szary Filament do drukarki 3D
Tylko US$46.19, kup najlepszy sklep internetowy PolyLite Polymaker 1,75 mm PLA Filament do drukarki 3D 750g / rolka czarny / biały / szary w cenie hurtowej.
pl.banggood.com
I hope that will help
macizet_legacy said:
I don't use firmware mods on my Ender, but I've printed these things from thingiverse:
Ender 3 Display LCD PCB Cover by Rocco81-92
A tip as appreciation is welcome. Backcover for the new Ender-3 Display. Hi, i used four countersunk (2x M3x10 / 2x M3x16 (M3x18 work too) 02.12.2018 added a new version on request from "DOC73", a version for 3 plug use. 16.08.2018 added two new closed Versions for factory srews, one with...
www.thingiverse.com
Creality Ender-3 Display Ribbon Cable Clip by gn-jr
Clip to tide up ribbon cable from controller to display Ender-3 Printer, print it sideway so you don't need any support.
www.thingiverse.com
Ender 3 / CR-10 Tool Holder by DantRush
This is a press-fit tool holder for the creality Ender 3. It's super easy to mount and it doesn't need to screw anything. UPDATE! I updated a second file which can also hold the scrapper tool without any bolts. FILES: tool_holder - The one without scrapper (Printed in grey)...
www.thingiverse.com
Ender 3 Cable Chain by johnniewhiskey
Update [10:53 PM 2018-06-16] Added parts assembly guide image cableChain_link_v3.stl Not constraint hinge to 1 direction anymore (But v2 still work fine) 15 links for heatbed, 10-15 links for gantry. cableChain_bedCorner_v2.stl (and Cover) Easier Snap assembly and disassembly...
www.thingiverse.com
And here's the link for polymaker :
PolyLite Polymaker 1,75 mm PLA 750 g / rolka Czarno-biały / biały / szary Filament do drukarki 3D
Tylko US$46.19, kup najlepszy sklep internetowy PolyLite Polymaker 1,75 mm PLA Filament do drukarki 3D 750g / rolka czarny / biały / szary w cenie hurtowej.
pl.banggood.com
I hope that will help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, you're using Poly Lite not PolyTerra? I wanted to try PolyTerra as I want to get rid of the empty plastic spools(and I already have spool container)
strongst said:
Thanks, you're using Poly Lite not PolyTerra? I wanted to try PolyTerra as I want to get rid of the empty plastic spools(and I already have spool container)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup, i am using poly lite i've never tried polyterra, maybe it's time to try
stevejhons12 said:
Yes, I've been 3D printing for around 2 years now. I absolutely like it. It can be very addictive and satisfying, but can also be one of the most frustrating things when it doesn't go quite right!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bed leveling for example
Do you also use acetone / pla
strongst said:
Yo gents, let's discuss about this awesome hobby(or maybe business for some of you?) which is growing a lot since several years and also affordable more and more.
I'm using a modified Ender 3 v2 within a closet to keep temps close with ABS:
View attachment 5500647
What Printer are you using?
Or do you just want some advice which one to buy?
What slicers do you use?
Materials you prefer?
What 3D modeling software(Fusion 360, FreeCad, Tinkercad, Solid Works)?
What have you designed and printed?
Are you using custom firmware or compile your own one?
Let's see some comments!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you also use acetone / plastic mixtures to secure your print to the table?
Just wondering if maybe my humidity changes a lot compared to other people.
Thanks!
hwk2014 said:
Do you also use acetone / pla
Do you also use acetone / plastic mixtures to secure your print to the table?
Just wondering if maybe my humidity changes a lot compared to other people.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most stickness problems occur due to bad bed leving or temperature changes. But also false temperatures can have an impact. Which setting do you use?
Acetone and PLA don't work, PLA is acetone safe. Acetone only works with ABS.
I'm using a double sided steel bed with a PEI or rough coating which works fine with PLA and PETG(which has a strong bed adhesion and can damage glass beds)
{Mod edit: Quoted post has been deleted}
Depends on your budget, the max object size and technology?!
Ripped the ribbon cable for the LCD on my Elegoo Mars resin printer when changing the fan for something a little quieter. Must have been absolutely rough as a dog with it
Didn't realise until I tried to print something and nothing printed after a couple hours, thought maybe my print got stuck to the FEP but no it was a ripped ribbon cable on the LCD.
Finally the new screen came today and we are all up and running again.
All I've been hearing from my 3 year old the last week is "Daaaaaaaad? Where's my paw patrol badge, you said you would make me a paw patrol badge"
Finally she has her badge to colour in for the day. Happy kid, happy daddy
Additionally, I employ Creality Ender 3 V2. This is extremely great, however I'm using an Ideamaker slicer, PLA and ABS materials, Thinkercad software, and my own custom firmware. Everything is fine, however the printed object doesn't have sharp, distinct edges.
Related
How to disassembly... reasembly and paint a HTC Wizard.....
I did it once with a wizard stole on the Mexico streets,... yes with a gun!!! jajaja
and posted in todopocketpc buthad some issues with the frnt case cause it has a panit of chrome and cuprum and the paint dont dry at all... but I will try again the Thing Pics of paint, and a tutorial for disassembly may be a great Thing on XDA Developers...
So wait for the customization....
Things To GET
Well....
We need somethings to get this job succesfull withou broke some little things on the wizard...
See the Factory tecnical manual to see how to disassembly is on WIKI...
1.- As you see it we new a screw driver star kind, on the store are so many try to get any with many sizes see the screw behind the stylus? all are the same maybe 5 or 4 screws more.
2.- Get a screw driver cross kind very thin cause inside are at least 2 screws of this kind.
3.- A piece of hard plastic like in the tecnical manual... if you dont get one of this tool, use your nails or something
4.- We need something to get two kind of sandpaper one hard and one soft not so much... maybe for metal the softest you can get and one watters the middle one.
5.- The paint.... You need acrylic enamel on spray!!!! a bottle for every color is enough.
(this is a limitation on the front cover... You only can see the silver paint.... and yes is paint not metal... but under the silver paint is a layer of aluminium and under the aluminium is a layer of Cuprum, this cant be painted as well)
Well i have did this long time ago see this: http://www.megaupload.com/?d=DGT2LCOJ
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So lets work
Somebody stole my wizard (AGAIN!!!! i only have a wizard at least 1 year... im so sad...) last night i was waiting for the BUS and two guys atacks me with a knife, they took my Wizard and my money. So I cant test anymore painting techniques and photos with the device... so let me found a cheap wizard to start over...
The good news are... i finish last night but furious my Tutorial. I hope you can enjoy the job.. dont be afraid of disassembly your device.
This is the link to the tutorial: (xcuse my poor english)
HTC_wizard_Painting_Tutorial.doc
DownloadLink: http://rapidshare.com/files/149721020/HTC_wizard_Painting_Tutorial.doc
Video
The tutorial has a painting technique and it said "see video1 or 2 or 3" what ever there are the links to the videos... you can see it too at my profile in Youtube see my Signature and finish the job...
This is the painting JOB:
Video painting 1 the back case
Video painting 3 the front case
Video painting 4 the battery case
Video painting 2 the back camera case
This is how finish my Wizard
For the final sight!!!!
My almost new HTC Wizard... i need to get another device... until i get one i'm widde open to answer all your questions...
I dont paint the buttons side cause i cant got the black spray acrilic enamel on Sunday.... nobody works! so...
Enjoy your almost new device too.
Link:
My Silver HTC Wizard
BTW... dont paint your qwerty!! pad.
Special thank on the .doc TUTTORIAL.
Hi + Que PPC,
It's a shame someone stole your phone , where it was? I'm also from Guad. I will look at your videos at home, looks interesting. BTW if you are looking for new phone I have a friend of mine is selling one here in Guad. Maybe I will sell mine very cheap. Also in Plaza de la Tecnologia in the downtown I found a little store where they sell Wizards for like $4000 MXP. (news).
yup!
edgar0204 said:
Hi + Que PPC,
It's a shame someone stole your phone , where it was? I'm also from Guad. I will look at your videos at home, looks interesting. BTW if you are looking for new phone I have a friend of mine is selling one here in Guad. Maybe I will sell mine very cheap. Also in Plaza de la Tecnologia in the downtown I found a little store where they sell Wizards for like $4000 MXP. (news).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mnmmm it was in J. Luis Verdia and Medrano... don't go to there is dangerous but what can I do my girlfriend lives near there... its in Analco near the Papillon boutique.. so let me see cause the device is so expensive in Plaza de la Tecnologia in downtown right straght to the normal stairs on second floor isnt it? I saw Wizards in Mercadolibre.com at $2199 MXP but I bought my device in 1200 so... I think it was a price that i cant reject jajaja. So let me know if your friend is interesting on selling his device ok?
It isnt hard if you have a question dont dude to ask... where do you live? its nice to see people in guadalajara with Wizards. I saw someday a girl with a wizard but it was 8125. mine is a qtek or mda style.
My Black Wizard
+ Que PPC nice job with the tutorial. It must be real pain in the *** to take pictures at every step. It was a great help for me.
I have painted my Wizard with acrylic matt paint. Although you can't see it in the crappy pictures, it looks good.
Are we the only ones that have painted our Wizards? Strange...
If anyone else has painted his Wizard please post some pictures.-
Nice job men!!!!
BTW YES!!! i was a painfull work cause i have to see and attach pictures of my stolen wizard all over the night
The painting job in matt looks great man! but tell me does you remove the aluminium layer of the front case?
I dont know if people paints their wizards but in TODOPOCKETPC.com forums i see some people that combines with higly designs made by pace litle pieces of tape, it looks amazing!!!!
Nice job man!! if you experiment issues on the painting job please comment it here to get perfection on our job.
Thank you for your good words.
I didn't remove the aluminiun layer in the front panel.
I have some issues with the paint job but it is my fault. I didn't polish the paint & now every time that I scratch the paint with my nails little parts of paint are removed. This happens especially in the front buttons. I will repaint it when i have free time, because as you know better than me it takes a lot of time, & of course I will polish it.
I will search at todopocketpc.com to see what are you talking about but it will be hard because I am from Greece & I am not familiar with the language.
It will be helpful if you send me a link. It will save me a lot of time.
Thank you in advance.
samxein said:
Thank you for your good words.
I didn't remove the aluminiun layer in the front panel.
I have some issues with the paint job but it is my fault. I didn't polish the paint & now every time that I scratch the paint with my nails little parts of paint are removed. This happens especially in the front buttons. I will repaint it when i have free time, because as you know better than me it takes a lot of time, & of course I will polish it.
I will search at todopocketpc.com to see what are you talking about but it will be hard because I am from Greece & I am not familiar with the language.
It will be helpful if you send me a link. It will save me a lot of time.
Thank you in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course let me search thats why... is in spanish!!! cause im mexican.
Jejeje yes the scratching nails front case issue...
YES you need to polish Everything even tough the buttons...
But maybe it becames without lightning buttons jajaja after the job cause maybe it will brokes because of the hard polish... or... levae without paint the buttons
OMG!
this is amazing!
makes me want to dissassemble my wing and paint it matte black
My Wizards!!!
Both stolen!!! It seems i had a spell over the wizard painting a few days after I painted my wizards was stolen!!
Painted Wizard
I painted mine over a month ago. I was a little hesitant thinking that the paint would get chipped or scratched. but I haven't had any problems. I had an extra case that came off of a dead wizard. I removed all stickers and pads, and the front keys. I sanded with wet sand paper 600 grit. On the front I used a small wire brush to make sure that all the surfaces were properly prepaired. I wiped everyting with acetone. Then I sprayed several light coats of black appliance enamel. I sanded everything down again for the last coat. Then I let it cure for over a week before installing.
WOW!!
Its beautyfull!!!
Acetone!? Yes! it cleans very well for grease and dust... great work! Its a beutyfull lady like a woman with new dress!
Sorry i dont mean you to be jeleause... Nice work Men.
I saw this machine somewhere you are the first that place this little plastic things on buttons cause your fingers isnt it? I reed it some day...
Nice to see more PIMPED Wizard....
SO Please GUYS P I M P M Y D E V I C E
+ Que PPC said:
Its beautyfull!!!
Acetone!? Yes! it cleans very well for grease and dust... great work! Its a beutyfull lady like a woman with new dress!
Sorry i dont mean you to be jeleause... Nice work Men.
I saw this machine somewhere you are the first that place this little plastic things on buttons cause your fingers isnt it? I reed it some day...
Nice to see more PIMPED Wizard....
SO Please GUYS P I M P M Y D E V I C E
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I liked your red and black one as well...
Why yes, yes I was the first with the bumps... It's just two part 5min epoxy. Mix up a small batch wait about 3 min, it should just start to gel. Then with the butt of a small paint brush, dab it on. Two times if you want a little bit taller bumps. Now I can easily find the hard keys with my fat fingers.
samxein said:
+ Que PPC nice job with the tutorial. It must be real pain in the *** to take pictures at every step. It was a great help for me.
I have painted my Wizard with acrylic matt paint. Although you can't see it in the crappy pictures, it looks good.
Are we the only ones that have painted our Wizards? Strange...
If anyone else has painted his Wizard please post some pictures.-
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Respect man, but seems like You miss most of your Art classes in Elementary School...
CyberianIce said:
Respect man, but seems like You miss most of your Art classes in Elementary School...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I like it, so...
i enjoyed both painted wizards! i have another wizard, guess ill paint it myself on my spare time.
Hope you can men!
Good luck men!? if you had a question post it men!
Found this while searching for Iconia cases
The part in the back looks to be high quality and it clipped on to the body just like the Blurex case but also offered 360° Rotating
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Leather-Case...022?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23133d8446
Looks fairly good overall....
...but the description describes it as having "snap shut closure..."
Looks like a band of elastic that wraps around it to keep it shut...
If this had magnets, or real snaps or...something else, it might be a contender...I'm not a fan of elastic...wears out way too fast.
Achristocat said:
...but the description describes it as having "snap shut closure..."
Looks like a band of elastic that wraps around it to keep it shut...
If this had magnets, or real snaps or...something else, it might be a contender...I'm not a fan of elastic...wears out way too fast.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think what you are seeing as "elastic bands" are the grooves in the case for the edge of the tablet to set in.
I will be very eager to hear from someone who gets this case to find out:
1. How it"snaps shut"?
2. If the flap opens all the way to the back?
3. How well the tablet stays in the case?
I purchased this from Ebay a week ago. When it comes I will post pics and give my thoughts on it. Should arrive next week. Woot!!
Looks nice, but, I refuse to use eBay.. a source for this from a real store would be great
Hymizzle said:
I purchased this from Ebay a week ago. When it comes I will post pics and give my thoughts on it. Should arrive next week. Woot!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looking forward to the pictures.
source for real store
choccy74 said:
Looks nice, but, I refuse to use eBay.. a source for this from a real store would be great
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am purchasing this within next week. Seller gave me the link for his store.
http://www.fintie.com/
IMHO, it looks like one of the best cases out there.
Per the description from the store link above,
5.Elastic band holds iPad 2 closed securely while on the go
maybe it does use elastic bands, but since it also says "iPad 2" I'll be curious to see how it actually works.
Elastic closure...
Having gone to where the original object was posted and downloaded the picture, I saw a swelling on the "upper corner" of the cover that could really only be a couple of things...
Given the lack of anything else that might be considered a candidate for some sort of closure, I figured it to be elastic...
Looking forward to seeing the confirmation in other people's pictures...I still may get it and modify it to my liking. Seems like the closest yet. I do wish it had some other type of closure...
P.S. I love the simplicity of the TPU "snapon" case I have now - seems to offer more corner / edge protection should I mishandle it.
I may buy another TPU case and add / modify it with portions of this case. now THAT would be cool...
I'm thinking that "snap shut" could means like one of those jean button...
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( then dock it through a circle ring ( case snap on to base ) to become desktop with angles and 360 rotation positions )
Top half of the circle above Acer logo is part of tablet case while the bottom half is use as the backstand. ( it is bendable at that part/or separate.... see the joint lines in pic #1 )
the Jeans snap shut button could either be on the top half or the lower half circle... served the same purpose.
Together, they combined to becomes a portfolio case
point #4 at the retail site:
http://www.fintie.com/Tablet PC Accessoriesessories/Acer?product_id=1190
4.Snap-n-Roll Design, Detachable case easily snaps into mount.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I preferred that it is bendable instead of separate and snap on button on the top half of the ring.
top candidate for me and also because cannot get the Blurex case from Amazon to Canada.
~~~~~
UnicornKaz said:
Found this while searching for Iconia cases
The part in the back looks to be high quality and it clipped on to the body just like the Blurex case but also offered 360° Rotating
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Leather-Case...022?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23133d8446
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Rotating ? Strange way to describe it.
pov1 said:
Rotating ? Strange way to describe it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What's so strange about describing a gadget or item that is capable of "360° Rotation" ???
besides... that's what the ad said !!
maybe some people just run out of things to complain about, so they have to pick on a word ??
I'm looking forward to reading the user reviews of this case.
JetskiMark said:
I'm looking forward to reading the user reviews of this case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here, but I have the blurex slim case now and love it, and but this case looks nice
Sent from my A500 using XDA Premium App
I received mine today, which I ordered last week from fintie.com. It looks exactly like the pictures on ebay or the fintie.com so I am not going to post any pictures. I also have a blurex slim case (same thing with roocase slim) and quality wise it is not as good as blurex, and it has one less indentation thingies in the case that serve as a stopper for different angels, but it stays fine even if you don put the table directly into those indentations.
Build quality is ok, not great but ok. Unfortunately just like in the pictures it has an elastic strap as a closure instead of a magnetic flap or a hard leather part like in blurex case. I am not sure if it wears out or becomes lose quickly, only the time will tell.
Swivel mechanism works fine, and it is a lot easier to remove the tablet from the case, if you are doing that constantly. The part that your tablet sits in is plastic, the rest is fake leather. It is slightly thinner than the blurex slim case, mainly due to less padding on the flap.
Removing the plastic case from the swivel mechanism and flap is NOT easy at all, and would probably break the notches on the swivel eventually.
Both sides are open like the blurex case, so this is not designed to protect your tablet if you drop it sideways, but more for to protect it from daily wear and tear and carrying in a bag, etc.
All in all I am happy with it and would buy it again, since I really wanted something that swivels for reading comics in portrait mode.
Thanks man, this seems like a nice case then. I will order mine within this week, although it will probably reach my hands one month after I do the purchase (I live in Mexico and our Postal Service is really crappy).
Looking forward to pictures as well, was wanting a case like this since I read mangas and also browse ebay in portiat mode.
I just Googled "iconia a500 rotating case" and found another vendor for this item and bought it for about $19 total. (Same item but $10 cheaper than the two vendors on Amazon; in fact this vendor is through amazonwebstore.) I'll try to remember to post back here after I get to play with it for a couple of days.
I received the case yesterday, so shipment from the vendor I used was quick enough for me. The case looks just as it does in pictures posted in this thread already, so I won't add more.
The thickness of the case material seems like it will protect the tablet very well from abrasion damage. As for impact damage, dropping small/light things onto the case shouldn't damage the tablet inside--or even dropping the tablet itself onto a hard floor unless the tablet lands right on a corner as the sides are exposed. (Even then, the case will protect it a little bit as it does extend over the edges of the Iconia a little.)
When the case is open, access is unobstructed to all buttons and ports except, of course, the docking port. When the case is closed, the elastic band covers the camera and the headphone port. I can't imagine anyone trying to take pictures with the Iconia closed in the case, but blockage of the headphone port could be a problem for people who want to close the case securely with the elastic band and listen to music through wired headphones at the same time.
There are two preset angles in this case. Using the trusty eyeballing method, one is 50 deg and the other is 65 deg. There is enough friction to set the tablet at any angle between there and not much give to set beyond.
The rotation works as advertised and is the reason why I got this particular case. I spent $19 on it and feel it's a good value. If you find a deal on this case for $10-$15, then you shouldn't even hesitate.
$17.99 now at Amazon.com
Same case ... just through a different retailer.
same manufacture... just supplies to different retailers and they in turn set their own price.
http://www.amazon.com/Iconia-Multi-...?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1315109306&sr=1-72
Some other examples... but the above is currently the cheapest being at $17.99.
($19.97)
http://www.amazon.com/PU-Rotating-C...?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1315110415&sr=1-92
and this one won't even be available till Sept/20
($22.87)
http://www.amazon.com/DURAGADGET-De...1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1315110603&sr=1-1
Hey all,
I wanted to share with you my progress on a little pet project.
Since Google never got around to releasing their charging dock for the N10, I thought I'd have a bit of a play and see if I could come up with one myself. Fortunately, having access to 3D printers at work, I can!
It's designed to work with the fantastic Pogo charger available on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B2166BS/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And I'm offering this as a free download to anyone that wants it, to go and print it themselves. File is the the widely used .stl format.
Ignore the scummy white crap in some of the pictures - I hadn't fully cleaned it yet!
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I have designed it to work with the magnetic charger available on Amazon, and it is designed it to fit around this case, which it does:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00AD6W57W/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am more than happy to draw up an alternate version with a thinner slot, for those who go caseless. Let me know if you would like me to draw this up!
Notes on building it:
The charging port fits VERY snugly, but that's kind of the point. Once it's in, it's in!
The hole underneath is so you can then feed the USB cable back through the unit. It is necessary to avoid having an ugly, trailing wire.
Any failures, damage, mishaps, injuries or deaths that you suffer as a result of this project I claim no responsibility for, I'm just trying to help you out!
Please let me know what you think, all feedback is welcome and I'm happy to redesign as necessary!
EDIT - NEW DOWNLOAD LINK, ALL FILES ZIPPED AS REQUESTED BY KTNEMEC:
http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=23201521075832552593
Enjoy.
Love it.
If reasonably priced, I'm ready to purchase!!
SeaFractor said:
If reasonably priced, I'm ready to purchase!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not for sale! Up as a free download, because I'm a nice guy. :laugh:
Just need the pogo charger from Amazon, and a friendly local 3d-print bureau.
STP
jonnug said:
Not for sale! Up as a free download, because I'm a nice guy. :laugh:
Just need the pogo charger from Amazon, and a friendly local 3d-print bureau.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can you convert it to STEP file or IGS?
It looks great. But why create it so thick? Wouldn't it print faster and cheaper if this is thin-wall out? Maybe create a screw slot to screw in a metal plate to make it feel more solid.
How much did it cost you to print that? I don't see how the Pogo cable get fix in so it won't move around.
How much did it cost you for the 3d printing? Im taking an engineering class and I might be able to do this as one of the projects next semester.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using xda app-developers app
jonnug said:
Hey all,
Enjoy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My son and I are both be getting 3d printers for Xmas (his for his dorm room), I think this would make a very useful first print. Thank you!
Ed
workerantDroid said:
can you convert it to STEP file or IGS?
It looks great. But why create it so thick? Wouldn't it print faster and cheaper if this is thin-wall out? Maybe create a screw slot to screw in a metal plate to make it feel more solid.
How much did it cost you to print that? I don't see how the Pogo cable get fix in so it won't move around.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are indeed correct. Most 3D-print shops will be able to print it 'sparse', in as such that they can build the inner with a honeycomb structure, saving time and materials. As for costs - no idea I'm afraid - I'm lucky enough to be able to do projects like this for free!
abdel12345 said:
How much did it cost you for the 3d printing? Im taking an engineering class and I might be able to do this as one of the projects next semester.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, no idea on costs I'm afraid, although it's only a small project, no bigger footprint than a CD. It shouldn't cost the earth.
metaled222 said:
My son and I are both be getting 3d printers for Xmas (his for his dorm room), I think this would make a very useful first print. Thank you!
Ed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem - if you have a specific case with a different thickness then send me the dimensions - I'd be happy to draw an alternate with a different sized slot for you!
As an FYI -
both UPS (in 4 pilot cities - NYC, SF, ...) and Shapeways.com can quote you to print it
Both quotes are in the neighborhood of $200-250...
So yeah - i think its a great idea, but one would have to really put on a thinking cap in order to hollow out/redesign it in a way to use far less material. to get it down to what I would think is a reasonable price point (~$50)
workerantDroid said:
can you convert it to STEP file or IGS?
It looks great. But why create it so thick? Wouldn't it print faster and cheaper if this is thin-wall out? Maybe create a screw slot to screw in a metal plate to make it feel more solid.
How much did it cost you to print that? I don't see how the Pogo cable get fix in so it won't move around.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
IGES & STEP formats now up.
mingiunate said:
As an FYI -
both UPS (in 4 pilot cities - NYC, SF, ...) and Shapeways.com can quote you to print it
Both quotes are in the neighborhood of $200-250...
So yeah - i think its a great idea, but one would have to really put on a thinking cap in order to hollow out/redesign it in a way to use far less material. to get it down to what I would think is a reasonable price point (~$50)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow... crazy money for the solid model - can they not run it as a sparse model with a hollowed-out inner?
^ might as well invest on a printer if price is around $250.
I need to do more homework on these 3D printers.
Thank you very much.
I requested this item here in Germany.
The Volume is 115 ccm, so i must pay 80 Euro for this.
Uhhhh i must think about tis.....
Bastlwastl2010 said:
Thank you very much.
I requested this item here in Germany.
The Volume is 115 ccm, so i must pay 80 Euro for this.
Uhhhh i must think about tis.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have seen this price as well, but I think it should be cheaper for a hollow version (price found on plastikliebe.de).
@jonnug
which program did you use to make the model?
I have a FabLab with open workshop here in Nuremberg with 3D printers.
If i understand it right i must only pay for the material.
I wil go on Friday or Saturday in and check this.
frauhottelmann said:
I have seen this price as well, but I think it should be cheaper for a hollow version (price found on plastikliebe.de).
@jonnug
which program did you use to make the model?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I drew it in SolidWorks, very easy package to use.
Hey, thank you for this! I had started to model one but wasn't making good progress then I saw this and it is perfect! I just got a Makerbot Replicator 2 for the Robotics Club at my school and my teacher said he would start the print before he left school today, but in the software for it, we chose to do a hexagonal infill to save time and filament but it is still estimated to take 6 hours. I hope it will not be too light due to it being hollow, but I will post pictures and impressions tomorrow. Thank you again!
Chuckles6969 said:
Hey, thank you for this! I had started to model one but wasn't making good progress then I saw this and it is perfect! I just got a Makerbot Replicator 2 for the Robotics Club at my school and my teacher said he would start the print before he left school today, but in the software for it, we chose to do a hexagonal infill to save time and filament but it is still estimated to take 6 hours. I hope it will not be too light due to it being hollow, but I will post pictures and impressions tomorrow. Thank you again!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The honeycomb infill is exactly how I designed it to be made - as you can see from previous posts the costs for a solid model are outrageous!
It took me about 6 hours to make it too.
The weight is quite light, but not so light that you send it flying when you prod the screen, so I think it's about right!
Works Great! Thanks!
Hey, I got the stand 2 days ago and its been pretty good so far. It cost about $6 to make and took about 6 hours and 45 minutes to print. It is hollow so it is very light and does get lifted up when I pick up the tablet but I'm working on a fix for that. My main complaint is when I put the cable through it was such a tight fit I can barely say it did. I ended up damaging some areas and edges using tools to push, pull, and force the damned thing through. Right now the charging part is slightly angled and I cant pull it out or push it in further to level it. The last picture attached kind of shows the honey comb fill. All in all I'm glad I printed it and thanks to Jonnug for designing it, it works even without a case on it. Thanks!
As you may know, our beloved smartphone suffers from some overheating problem, due to the powerful Snapdragon 810 that use.
Its cores are the real "cores" of the problem: Qualcomm has adopted pure ARM reference design instead their revised versions, that creates more trouble than it should;
No custom kernel or other things really solve the problem and the results are bad performances in heavy load scenario (multitasking or gaming) and more heat than usual.
To be honest, I never had any particular problems with my M9, but wanted to try something that I also done on my old M7: disassemble the phone and apply a serious-level thermal grease to make sure to put processor die in contact with the metal body!
Well, let's start!
Here's what I am faced: a carefully disassembled One M9 (iFixit exhaustively explains how to do that) and, at my discretion, the best thermal paste on the market, the Artic MX-4.
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Now i gently opened the metal coverage of components and ... There is our processor!
At this point, i have to remove the old (and inefficient) thermal pad applied by the factory.
-In the photo i've already partially removed it.
The instant after the compound application.
Pressure will definitely flatten it; it's also a large surplus but in that way i'm sure that it will cover the entire surface of the processor and also the surroundings. (no problem, it does not conduct electricity)
After closing the coverage, I applied a dose of thermal paste also on it, to bring together the processor with the outside of the smartphone, according to the scheme below.
Now we're ready to clo...HEY! wait, wait, wait, is a missing screw what I just saw?
YES! and also explains my perception of the slightly lower volume from the bottom speaker!
Fortunately, M7 screw are compatible... screwed and fixed!
... is not an oversight that I would expect from this flagship device...
...as I was saying, I reassembled the smartphone.
No one will notice anything, like new!
And now, you will expect results ... here they are!
I made this improvement more than one month ago, at the time I done many many tests, i also take screenshots, but they're totally useless at the moment, because what you should know is the following;
In addition to the significant drop in temperature outside of the phone, as I noticed with my old M7, I have seen an unexpected increase in battery life of 10% of the daily average, really not bad!
And the temperature of the processor? It's now under control! Even under full load, the temperature increases gradually and slowly, without peaks and never exceed 45 degrees on the cores, even after several minutes of use.
In normal use, temperature is a few degrees above the ambient one.
To ensure that my system works well I did a little test... I launched a benchmark app (viewing onscreen temp) and after a few minutes I put an ice cube on the back of the phone, just above the processor position: I assisted to an insane temperature drop, from 45 to 7 degrees Celsius within 8-10 seconds!
What to say, I am pleased of the change I made to my M9, now the problem is not completely resolved but it is dammed.
Remember, I shared with you my experience for information, I do not assume liability for damage to your smartphone!
Awesome. I wish i had the balls to do this. Kudos sir. Amaze balls work.
Oh God, the HTC M9 isnt overheating. Its a bit hotter (Allmost between 5 to 8 Degress then other Flagships) and ony because it uses a Aluminium-Unibody which transports heat more effective. I Bet, others would get as hot as the M9, if they used a Metall Unibody.
And for me : Better a Metall Unibody then Plastic or Glas (which can break easilly (See here Xperia Z3 and Z3 Compact)).
I've tested the Galaxy S6 and the M9 some weeks ago with a Laser-Thermometer (Ambient Temp was 26 °C in my Room) :
After 5 runs Antutu :
M9 = 52,3 °C
S6 = 48,4 °C
After 5 Runs (3D Mark)
M9 = 54,1 °C
S6 = 48,7 °C
So there is no real difference, and the Scores even didnt decreased much on the M9. (from 59,435 to 57,897 Antutu) (S6 : 73,185 to 71,321)
this is a tricky mod to do id say. the better solution would of been if htc went with the 808 processor.
yeah.. the idea behind what i've done was to take all the advantages that an alluminum cover can do in thermal excange.
in that way the heat that the processor produce is immediately brought to the outside of the phone
Nice! Thanks for sharing this
Will definitely try this once I had the balls to do so.
oh my god I am a guitarist and have a pick in the hand. but as I tried to pull of just the top piece and saw glue removing I had fear that could be noticeable once you reassembly it. like parts not sticking right.
last time I disassembly a hd2 it was a mess, I broke 2 flats ahahaha
WOW...holy crap! i just did this mod and im telling you it IS NOT for the faint of heart. the all aluminum frame can bend and scratch easy if your not careful. i was able to do it and assemble the best i could like stock but this WILL void all and any warranty. scared the crap out of me because at first the device would not boot until i plugged it into a charger. :/ be very aware that when you separate the two halfs of the phone there is "very strong" adhesive tape holding the camera to the board. i used arctic silver cpu paste and its too soon to tell but i can say the device is much cooler under cpuz stats. im hoping this might improve battery life as well. soo far everything on the device works.
heres the guide to ifixit. https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/HTC+One+M9+Teardown/39166
Nice!
I just did the procedure described here. I'll post back with results if there's any change.
fix-this! said:
WOW...holy crap! i just did this mod and im telling you it IS NOT for the faint of heart. the all aluminum frame can bend and scratch easy if your not careful. i was able to do it and assemble the best i could like stock but this WILL void all and any warranty. scared the crap out of me because at first the device would not boot until i plugged it into a charger. :/ be very aware that when you separate the two halfs of the phone there is "very strong" adhesive tape holding the camera to the board. i used arctic silver cpu paste and its too soon to tell but i can say the device is much cooler under cpuz stats. im hoping this might improve battery life as well. soo far everything on the device works.
heres the guide to ifixit. https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/HTC+One+M9+Teardown/39166
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ahhhhhhhhhh you're crazy! artic silver is an electrical conductor! you must (or would have had to) use a ceramic or carbon compound!
I hope for you that pressure and time won't let it overflows on the motherboard!
p.s. after i disassembled my one m7 (photo), nothing scares me anymore (i'm still using it)
After 6 months of use I'd say overheating problems are long gone, but this is always a good practice, thanks for sharing this . Even after playing Need for Speed: No Limits for more than an hour the top temperature was 43 Celsius on my M9, that's pretty standard.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm
according to this it wont be an issue. im not overly concerned.
fix-this! said:
http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm
according to this it wont be an issue. im not overly concerned.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
"(While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.)"
Valerio-M8 said:
"(While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.)"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And what makes you think that Arctic MX-4 is any different? MX-4 contains 40% metallic aluminum, so it's not electrically inert either. They both use an oil (silicone oil or ester oil) as a carrier.
mike.s said:
And what makes you think that Arctic MX-4 is any different? MX-4 contains 40% metallic aluminum, so it's not electrically inert either. They both use an oil (silicone oil or ester oil) as a carrier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/mx-4.html
-"It does not contain any metallic particles so electical conductivity would not be an issue. Unlike silver and copper compound, it ensures that contact with any electrical pins would not result in damage of any sort."
-"The ARCTIC MX-4 compound is composed of carbon micro-particles [...]"
Arctic MX-4 EC safety data sheet: "Aluminium 40% CAS 7429-90-5"
In any case, both manufacturers assert their products are non-conductive, so you're knocking down a straw man. The question was in regard to a potential effect on interlead capacitance, about which the marketing fluff you mentioned says nothing. MX-4 uses a silicone oil, which has a dielectric constant of in the 2.5 range. Ester oil as used in AC5 is similar (high 2.x). There's no reason to believe they're significantly different electrically, yet you hype one as "the best," and warn against using the other. I think you've just fallen for marketing.
how has this mod panned out for anyone who did it?
Great mod, now i can play heavy games
does this mod actually work? also what the best thermal paste to use for this mod or would a replacement thermal pad be better?
thanks
Techfan3000 said:
does this mod actually work? also what the best thermal paste to use for this mod or would a replacement thermal pad be better?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, i've used AAB thermal paste and it's ok, thermal paste is always better than thermal pad in my opinion.
Hey all,
I wanted to share with you my progress on a little pet project.
Since Google never got around to releasing their charging dock for the N10, I thought I'd have a bit of a play and see if I could come up with one myself. Fortunately, having access to 3D printers at work, I can!
It's designed to work with the fantastic Pogo charger available on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B2166BS/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And I'm offering this as a free download to anyone that wants it, to go and print it themselves. File is the the widely used .stl format.
Ignore the scummy white crap in some of the pictures - I hadn't fully cleaned it yet!
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I have designed it to work with the magnetic charger available on Amazon, and it is designed it to fit around this case, which it does:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00AD6W57W/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am more than happy to draw up an alternate version with a thinner slot, for those who go caseless. Let me know if you would like me to draw this up!
Notes on building it:
The charging port fits VERY snugly, but that's kind of the point. Once it's in, it's in!
The hole underneath is so you can then feed the USB cable back through the unit. It is necessary to avoid having an ugly, trailing wire.
Any failures, damage, mishaps, injuries or deaths that you suffer as a result of this project I claim no responsibility for, I'm just trying to help you out!
Please let me know what you think, all feedback is welcome and I'm happy to redesign as necessary!
EDIT - NEW DOWNLOAD LINK, ALL FILES ZIPPED AS REQUESTED BY KTNEMEC:
http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=23201521075832552593
Enjoy.
Love it.
If reasonably priced, I'm ready to purchase!!
SeaFractor said:
If reasonably priced, I'm ready to purchase!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not for sale! Up as a free download, because I'm a nice guy. :laugh:
Just need the pogo charger from Amazon, and a friendly local 3d-print bureau.
STP
jonnug said:
Not for sale! Up as a free download, because I'm a nice guy. :laugh:
Just need the pogo charger from Amazon, and a friendly local 3d-print bureau.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can you convert it to STEP file or IGS?
It looks great. But why create it so thick? Wouldn't it print faster and cheaper if this is thin-wall out? Maybe create a screw slot to screw in a metal plate to make it feel more solid.
How much did it cost you to print that? I don't see how the Pogo cable get fix in so it won't move around.
How much did it cost you for the 3d printing? Im taking an engineering class and I might be able to do this as one of the projects next semester.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using xda app-developers app
jonnug said:
Hey all,
Enjoy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My son and I are both be getting 3d printers for Xmas (his for his dorm room), I think this would make a very useful first print. Thank you!
Ed
workerantDroid said:
can you convert it to STEP file or IGS?
It looks great. But why create it so thick? Wouldn't it print faster and cheaper if this is thin-wall out? Maybe create a screw slot to screw in a metal plate to make it feel more solid.
How much did it cost you to print that? I don't see how the Pogo cable get fix in so it won't move around.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are indeed correct. Most 3D-print shops will be able to print it 'sparse', in as such that they can build the inner with a honeycomb structure, saving time and materials. As for costs - no idea I'm afraid - I'm lucky enough to be able to do projects like this for free!
abdel12345 said:
How much did it cost you for the 3d printing? Im taking an engineering class and I might be able to do this as one of the projects next semester.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, no idea on costs I'm afraid, although it's only a small project, no bigger footprint than a CD. It shouldn't cost the earth.
metaled222 said:
My son and I are both be getting 3d printers for Xmas (his for his dorm room), I think this would make a very useful first print. Thank you!
Ed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem - if you have a specific case with a different thickness then send me the dimensions - I'd be happy to draw an alternate with a different sized slot for you!
As an FYI -
both UPS (in 4 pilot cities - NYC, SF, ...) and Shapeways.com can quote you to print it
Both quotes are in the neighborhood of $200-250...
So yeah - i think its a great idea, but one would have to really put on a thinking cap in order to hollow out/redesign it in a way to use far less material. to get it down to what I would think is a reasonable price point (~$50)
workerantDroid said:
can you convert it to STEP file or IGS?
It looks great. But why create it so thick? Wouldn't it print faster and cheaper if this is thin-wall out? Maybe create a screw slot to screw in a metal plate to make it feel more solid.
How much did it cost you to print that? I don't see how the Pogo cable get fix in so it won't move around.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
IGES & STEP formats now up.
mingiunate said:
As an FYI -
both UPS (in 4 pilot cities - NYC, SF, ...) and Shapeways.com can quote you to print it
Both quotes are in the neighborhood of $200-250...
So yeah - i think its a great idea, but one would have to really put on a thinking cap in order to hollow out/redesign it in a way to use far less material. to get it down to what I would think is a reasonable price point (~$50)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow... crazy money for the solid model - can they not run it as a sparse model with a hollowed-out inner?
^ might as well invest on a printer if price is around $250.
I need to do more homework on these 3D printers.
Thank you very much.
I requested this item here in Germany.
The Volume is 115 ccm, so i must pay 80 Euro for this.
Uhhhh i must think about tis.....
Bastlwastl2010 said:
Thank you very much.
I requested this item here in Germany.
The Volume is 115 ccm, so i must pay 80 Euro for this.
Uhhhh i must think about tis.....
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I have seen this price as well, but I think it should be cheaper for a hollow version (price found on plastikliebe.de).
@jonnug
which program did you use to make the model?
I have a FabLab with open workshop here in Nuremberg with 3D printers.
If i understand it right i must only pay for the material.
I wil go on Friday or Saturday in and check this.
frauhottelmann said:
I have seen this price as well, but I think it should be cheaper for a hollow version (price found on plastikliebe.de).
@jonnug
which program did you use to make the model?
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I drew it in SolidWorks, very easy package to use.
Hey, thank you for this! I had started to model one but wasn't making good progress then I saw this and it is perfect! I just got a Makerbot Replicator 2 for the Robotics Club at my school and my teacher said he would start the print before he left school today, but in the software for it, we chose to do a hexagonal infill to save time and filament but it is still estimated to take 6 hours. I hope it will not be too light due to it being hollow, but I will post pictures and impressions tomorrow. Thank you again!
Chuckles6969 said:
Hey, thank you for this! I had started to model one but wasn't making good progress then I saw this and it is perfect! I just got a Makerbot Replicator 2 for the Robotics Club at my school and my teacher said he would start the print before he left school today, but in the software for it, we chose to do a hexagonal infill to save time and filament but it is still estimated to take 6 hours. I hope it will not be too light due to it being hollow, but I will post pictures and impressions tomorrow. Thank you again!
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The honeycomb infill is exactly how I designed it to be made - as you can see from previous posts the costs for a solid model are outrageous!
It took me about 6 hours to make it too.
The weight is quite light, but not so light that you send it flying when you prod the screen, so I think it's about right!
Works Great! Thanks!
Hey, I got the stand 2 days ago and its been pretty good so far. It cost about $6 to make and took about 6 hours and 45 minutes to print. It is hollow so it is very light and does get lifted up when I pick up the tablet but I'm working on a fix for that. My main complaint is when I put the cable through it was such a tight fit I can barely say it did. I ended up damaging some areas and edges using tools to push, pull, and force the damned thing through. Right now the charging part is slightly angled and I cant pull it out or push it in further to level it. The last picture attached kind of shows the honey comb fill. All in all I'm glad I printed it and thanks to Jonnug for designing it, it works even without a case on it. Thanks!